I just want to tell you God bless you and thank you for making these videos. I am a divorced mom on a budget with little extra. My A/C went out and I called big-name AC repair company come and look at my unit found out it was a ICP unit and I was told that the blower motor was shot and that they don't have replacement for that blower motor and that I would need to replace the entire unit to the tune of over $7,000 which I do not have. Out of frustration in trying to find a remedy I found your videos... Long story made short I ordered the exact blower motor I saw you pull off of your truck because the numbers match my original blower motor to the T I followed your video to the T and lo and behold my AC is back working...God Bless You Sir❣️🙏
Glad you fix your unit yourself. Too bad you received a sales call masquerading as a "service call." Do you know what year the original unit was installed? Is is the newer R410, or the old stuff R-22 refrigerant?
I have one puller that I bought 35 years ago and never had an issue getting it to pull off any blower wheel or fan blade assembly without spray or sand paper. I used it last year to replace my furnace motor. The puller is just faster for me and it has never damaged a blower wheel or fan because there is no beating involved.
Jack Of All Sprays has to be the best one out there. A while ago a tech wrote up to replace 2 fan blades on a 15 ton Lennox that was 12 years old...the rust was horrific. A lot of sanding and the jack of all sprays, and those blades came right out...after a lil working them off. That spray is amazing, wish I had it during my residential days. Most of the X-13s I replaced, normally came out easy. Great video
👍 crescent works every time.. while you noted you have tried all the pullers,, the “ultimate puller” is what I use (if necessary) and works mint.. great job Ted
One small tip: After you've sanded the shaft clean and lubricated the shaft/hub...take your crescent wrench and on the flat part of the shaft start moving the shaft back and forth back and forth with the blower assembly in your lap and the motor will come right out. You don't ever have to beat on it. I did it for 33 years. Works with Condenser fan motors too. Even if some bozo technician left you a 10 inch shaft instead of OEM motor or cutting shaft to length.
You got the motor out fairly easily because you are licensed, responsible, and can't do shoddy work on old units which should be replaced. I, on the other hand, can decide to change my own motor, which had water leaking onto it for years because the aluminum evaporator coil had never been cleaned in 38 years, so was dripping water down into the blower and motor for who knows how long. Rather than go crazy listening to the still working motor with worn bearings, rattle just enough to drive me mad, I decided to replace it myself. I could have afforded to have a professional do it, but no pro would work on a unit with the amount of rust caused by the water flying around inside it for decades. Had it been a gas heat unit, I would have had no choice but to have the entire air handler removed, but it is resistance electric heat. None of the wiring inside was damaged because it is enclosed in a separate compartment which the water couldn't get into. So I decided to go with a DIY motor change, since the condenser unit out back was only 8 years old and working perfectly. No way was I going to spend thousands, when I could fix it with a ball bearing Chinese motor & new squirrel cage blower for $150. Since the motor and fan were going to be replaced, all I had to do was get the motor off the blower, and remove one sheet metal part, so I could get the blower out, which was warped, probably from day one. After taking out the screw and soaking the shaft with WD-40 I proceeded to try and separate the rusted together joint. Twisting and hammering had no effect. I decided to attack the thick collar with a cutting wheel on a grinder. I got about 2/3 of the way down the collar before the grinder overheated and cut off. The next thing I decided to try was a propane torch. (Hurricane Katrina got my oxyacetylene torch, so I couldn't cut everything apart, like Eric on the outstanding, 'South Main Auto Repair' UA-cam channel does with the rusted bolts.) Heating, hammering, and spraying with more WD-40 eventually broke it loose! It only took about an hour. I wish I had had a puller. The evaporator coil had never been cleaned because a part of a cable reel, used by the contractor to mount the electrical cutoff, was preventing removing the access panel. To clean it, you would have needed to disconnect the refrigerant 22 lines to have enough room to remove it. I had to crawl up into the closet in order to saw away 1/3 of the round cable reel end, so I could slide the access panel to the right far enough to get it past the 2 lines. The cutouts in the panel aren't any good unless you can move the panel to the right, once the 8 screws are out. It was so tight in there that a reciprocating saw couldn't get to the entire piece of wood which needed to be cut. I had to get a long drill bit, and drill connected holes to get to the final 5 inches of the hardwood plywood, that the reel end was made out of. The Chinese motor was so cheap that I bought a spare, since I can now change it in an hour. You don't want to go without AC when the heat index is 114 during a Louisiana summer day. And the humidity keeps it hot nearly all night! Humid air, once heated, stays hot.
The average household should be able to replace Capacitor, Contactor, Fan Motor, Fuses, Circuit breaker, the frequent AC problem. I have never called service because they try to scam most homeowner. But you sir is an honest man that I would love to call if I have a HVAC problem. When I bought a house, we have a Home Owner insurance paid by seller. The AC was not working, Insurance called Tech. Tech start replacing cap, Contactor, Fan Motor, Charge w/ freon with 1600 bill, I paid 100 deductible. The tech got mad when I told him you didn't do any test, got so mad, scare me. Only problem I see is the cap is bulging.
In my youth, I once pounded on a shaft until it mushroomed. Then I spent an hour filing off my mistake. Never again. Some penetrating oil or rust buster and a little gentle tapping gets the job done.
I used a hammer and a pin punch to get the motor disconnected from the wheel. I did use a drill with brush on the rusted pole as well as a spray. It would be really cool if they could make a bit for a drills where you could the insert the motor rod inside it and it turn it on for a couple of seconds and then it gets rid of all the rust to a shinny finish.
I'm in hvac here in Delaware n I see this shameful shit all the time .. I'm n installer training with a great tech to become one myself gotta day nice to hear someone who knows this n sees bad duct work for what it is bad .. most ppl have no idea n it's a shame just get it done cheap is a big problem something my company does not do it's about quality great video very informative
I noticed my Carrier X13 1/2 horse hasn't been shutting off. It's only 2 years old. It's under warranty but they want $700 for labor. I'm replacing it it with a US Motor 6633. It's about $289 with tax. So even though it's covered I am saving money doing it myself. I pulled the low voltage wires off it and it still runs so I knew the module went like they all do. I hope to have better luck with the US Motor.
lol.... someone needs to raise hell with Regal Beloit, but they certainly seem to have too much of the motor market under their control, with all the different brands they own
Its actually a Carrier design, I remember them from the late 80's early 90's. Sadly in my 32 years in this trade, I have seen even worse installations, but that is certainly up there.
VapoRTraiL111 the X13 constant torque motor came out in 2006. That was cause the epa enforced the 13 seer mandatory condenser rating. The manufacturers trick was to add this crap X13 motor. It is not a TRUE variable speed motor. It bridge's the gap from PSC motors to a true variable speed motor which is constant cfm. The true variable speeds are built better quality. I've seen them last 25 yrs. But on a bad duct system forget it.
Love to watch your videos but you need to speak up louder. Alot of videos we can barely hear you talking. Keep up your excellent HVAC work. That duct work looks crazy but most of those probably work just fine. Not everyone routes them the same.
I changed 3 indoor fan motors. The first one was on a roof as it getting dark. It took too long. The second and third motors were on flat surfaces and were a lot easier.
Damn what a hack job on The flex duct.Those guys wouldn’t work for me that’s for sure. Every time I change a blower I always clean the wheel. I can’t stand dirty stuff. A little OCD I guess
Only time i use the puller is when some ding ding puts the set screw on the rounded side of the shaft otherwise the way you do it causes tge least amount of warpage/bending stress
I’ve found most of these x13s just need the module replaced. Right around 5 years they just fail randomly. will either stay stuck on, cutting on and off, or nothing at all.
I have a quick question. I have a furnace that starts up and the inducer motor runs and then shuts off. This happened after I replaced to old inducer because of a noisy bearing. looked at it and replaced the inducer motor but having the same issue. If the flue pipe is removed from the top of the inducer the pressure switch closes and gas valve opens and the furnace fires up as usual . I have checked the flue pipe and found no restrictions. I have tested it with new and the old and inducer and have the same issue. Any ideas?
@@ZERO-F2G- I've seen X13 motors fail just over a year old. PSC motors are more forgiving if your duct system is poor. They will last a while. X13 is not a true variable speed motor. It's bridge's the gap between psc and true variable speed motor which is constant cfm or constant flow. Those motors are more reliable then X13 constant torque junk.
Always hold your Phone sideways for full screen before you record no more Vertical Video please I hate the black side bars it makes it harder to see when you hold your phone like you making a call hold your phone like the old camera which is sideways remember your phone records full screen only sideways
I just want to tell you God bless you and thank you for making these videos. I am a divorced mom on a budget with little extra. My A/C went out and I called big-name AC repair company come and look at my unit found out it was a ICP unit and I was told that the blower motor was shot and that they don't have replacement for that blower motor and that I would need to replace the entire unit to the tune of over $7,000 which I do not have. Out of frustration in trying to find a remedy I found your videos... Long story made short I ordered the exact blower motor I saw you pull off of your truck because the numbers match my original blower motor to the T I followed your video to the T and lo and behold my AC is back working...God Bless You Sir❣️🙏
Glad you fix your unit yourself. Too bad you received a sales call masquerading as a "service call." Do you know what year the original unit was installed? Is is the newer R410, or the old stuff R-22 refrigerant?
another great video. I agree. After 30 years I think used a puller once and took it back. I don't use them either. Never needed one
I have one puller that I bought 35 years ago and never had an issue getting it to pull off any blower wheel or fan blade assembly without spray or sand paper. I used it last year to replace my furnace motor. The puller is just faster for me and it has never damaged a blower wheel or fan because there is no beating involved.
Jack Of All Sprays has to be the best one out there. A while ago a tech wrote up to replace 2 fan blades on a 15 ton Lennox that was 12 years old...the rust was horrific. A lot of sanding and the jack of all sprays, and those blades came right out...after a lil working them off. That spray is amazing, wish I had it during my residential days. Most of the X-13s I replaced, normally came out easy. Great video
This be has to be the best explaination of this process I have ever seen.
👍 crescent works every time.. while you noted you have tried all the pullers,, the “ultimate puller” is what I use (if necessary) and works mint.. great job Ted
One small tip: After you've sanded the shaft clean and lubricated the shaft/hub...take your crescent wrench and on the flat part of the shaft start moving the shaft back and forth back and forth with the blower assembly in your lap and the motor will come right out. You don't ever have to beat on it. I did it for 33 years. Works with Condenser fan motors too. Even if some bozo technician left you a 10 inch shaft instead of OEM motor or cutting shaft to length.
I’m about to do this this weekend, using this video as my guide. You’re a boss!! Respect!
I really do always root for you especially when you hit these kind of shafts! You are very simple and awsome!
You got the motor out fairly easily because you are licensed, responsible, and can't do shoddy work on old units which should be replaced.
I, on the other hand, can decide to change my own motor, which had water leaking onto it for years because the aluminum evaporator coil had never been cleaned in 38 years, so was dripping water down into the blower and motor for who knows how long.
Rather than go crazy listening to the still working motor with worn bearings, rattle just enough to drive me mad, I decided to replace it myself. I could have afforded to have a professional do it, but no pro would work on a unit with the amount of rust caused by the water flying around inside it for decades. Had it been a gas heat unit, I would have had no choice but to have the entire air handler removed, but it is resistance electric heat. None of the wiring inside was damaged because it is enclosed in a separate compartment which the water couldn't get into. So I decided to go with a DIY motor change, since the condenser unit out back was only 8 years old and working perfectly. No way was I going to spend thousands, when I could fix it with a ball bearing Chinese motor & new squirrel cage blower for $150.
Since the motor and fan were going to be replaced, all I had to do was get the motor off the blower, and remove one sheet metal part, so I could get the blower out, which was warped, probably from day one.
After taking out the screw and soaking the shaft with WD-40 I proceeded to try and separate the rusted together joint. Twisting and hammering had no effect. I decided to attack the thick collar with a cutting wheel on a grinder. I got about 2/3 of the way down the collar before the grinder overheated and cut off. The next thing I decided to try was a propane torch. (Hurricane Katrina got my oxyacetylene torch, so I couldn't cut everything apart, like Eric on the outstanding, 'South Main Auto Repair' UA-cam channel does with the rusted bolts.) Heating, hammering, and spraying with more WD-40 eventually broke it loose! It only took about an hour. I wish I had had a puller.
The evaporator coil had never been cleaned because a part of a cable reel, used by the contractor to mount the electrical cutoff, was preventing removing the access panel. To clean it, you would have needed to disconnect the refrigerant 22 lines to have enough room to remove it. I had to crawl up into the closet in order to saw away 1/3 of the round cable reel end, so I could slide the access panel to the right far enough to get it past the 2 lines. The cutouts in the panel aren't any good unless you can move the panel to the right, once the 8 screws are out. It was so tight in there that a reciprocating saw couldn't get to the entire piece of wood which needed to be cut. I had to get a long drill bit, and drill connected holes to get to the final 5 inches of the hardwood plywood, that the reel end was made out of.
The Chinese motor was so cheap that I bought a spare, since I can now change it in an hour. You don't want to go without AC when the heat index is 114 during a Louisiana summer day. And the humidity keeps it hot nearly all night! Humid air, once heated, stays hot.
The average household should be able to replace Capacitor, Contactor, Fan Motor, Fuses, Circuit breaker, the frequent AC problem. I have never called service because they try to scam most homeowner. But you sir is an honest man that I would love to call if I have a HVAC problem. When I bought a house, we have a Home Owner insurance paid by seller. The AC was not working, Insurance called Tech. Tech start replacing cap, Contactor, Fan Motor, Charge w/ freon with 1600 bill, I paid 100 deductible. The tech got mad when I told him you didn't do any test, got so mad, scare me. Only problem I see is the cap is bulging.
In my youth, I once pounded on a shaft until it mushroomed. Then I spent an hour filing off my mistake. Never again. Some penetrating oil or rust buster and a little gentle tapping gets the job done.
I always confirm low voltage speed taps because I have found that OEM motor tap speed 2=medium and on the evergreen 2=medium low.
Enjoy your videos 👍🏻
TNX for the ride along as usual Boss much appreciated.
Nice job Ted. Twisting the shaft is the best trick.
I used a hammer and a pin punch to get the motor disconnected from the wheel. I did use a drill with brush on the rusted pole as well as a spray. It would be really cool if they could make a bit for a drills where you could the insert the motor rod inside it and it turn it on for a couple of seconds and then it gets rid of all the rust to a shinny finish.
I'm in hvac here in Delaware n I see this shameful shit all the time .. I'm n installer training with a great tech to become one myself gotta day nice to hear someone who knows this n sees bad duct work for what it is bad .. most ppl have no idea n it's a shame just get it done cheap is a big problem something my company does not do it's about quality great video very informative
The blue & white are both speed taps the brown on the other plug is the common fo 24v
I noticed my Carrier X13 1/2 horse hasn't been shutting off. It's only 2 years old. It's under warranty but they want $700 for labor. I'm replacing it it with a US Motor 6633. It's about $289 with tax. So even though it's covered I am saving money doing it myself. I pulled the low voltage wires off it and it still runs so I knew the module went like they all do. I hope to have better luck with the US Motor.
Every tool has a hammer side.
I just changed one of those Monday exact same system easy job
I bet Kano Aerokroil initially sprayed would get that off pretty quick. That stuff is fantastic for rust or anything that's jammed up.
When they chose 13 for the model of those motors, they couldn't have made a better choice.
lol.... someone needs to raise hell with Regal Beloit, but they certainly seem to have too much of the motor market under their control, with all the different brands they own
Oh dude I just learned some tips and tricks from you thanks man
Ted Cook " I Stick it right back in there"
Every HVAC technician on the planet "Been there done that."
Its actually a Carrier design, I remember them from the late 80's early 90's. Sadly in my 32 years in this trade, I have seen even worse installations, but that is certainly up there.
VapoRTraiL111 the X13 constant torque motor came out in 2006. That was cause the epa enforced the 13 seer mandatory condenser rating. The manufacturers trick was to add this crap X13 motor. It is not a TRUE variable speed motor. It bridge's the gap from PSC motors to a true variable speed motor which is constant cfm. The true variable speeds are built better quality. I've seen them last 25 yrs. But on a bad duct system forget it.
Make life easy and just replace the module, its rare that the motor fails. Simple resistance check can tell the story.
Patience is key!!!good things happen for those who wait.good video!!!
Love to watch your videos but you need to speak up louder. Alot of videos we can barely hear you talking. Keep up your excellent HVAC work. That duct work looks crazy but most of those probably work just fine. Not everyone routes them the same.
I changed 3 indoor fan motors. The first one was on a roof as it getting dark. It took too long. The second and third motors were on flat surfaces and were a lot easier.
I like the o'l wire brush on a drill an w-d40 trick personally
Damn what a hack job on The flex duct.Those guys wouldn’t work for me that’s for sure. Every time I change a blower I always clean the wheel. I can’t stand dirty stuff. A little OCD I guess
I call that sort of tray a “ drag box” I do the same thing , just what you need for this particular job.
Only time i use the puller is when some ding ding puts the set screw on the rounded side of the shaft otherwise the way you do it causes tge least amount of warpage/bending stress
A DeWalt 90 degree bit adapter is very compact and may fit. I will try it next time if I have bit that will fit the bolt.
Ted, thanks for posting
Did you clean the blower wheel while you had the chance? Just to ensure that the blower wheel and motor are up to their full potential.
I coat every motor shaft with antiseize.
Excellent tip, friend! Thank you.
Did you tighten set screw ....i didnt see...great job Ted
Another good content video . What is the spray you are using??? I learn on everyone of your calls , thanks brotherman 👍
After looking at that ductwork job....no wonder the motor failed! ECM’s =no thanks!
I’ve found most of these x13s just need the module replaced. Right around 5 years they just fail randomly. will either stay stuck on, cutting on and off, or nothing at all.
Love the video, what’s the deal with these x13s? Crap motors
Every system I've put in with the x13 has failed I think
Ben Martin , 33yr old PGA player from SC
Still curious when do you decide to clean a blower wheel as part of a service call, especially when you already have it open and apart
So Ted, did the new motor work? Ted how did you deice those units?
I appreciate the video and your knowledge. Thank you.
I have a quick question. I have a furnace that starts up and the inducer motor runs and then shuts off. This happened after I replaced to old inducer because of a noisy bearing. looked at it and replaced the inducer motor but having the same issue. If the flue pipe is removed from the top of the inducer the pressure switch closes and gas valve opens and the furnace fires up as usual . I have checked the flue pipe and found no restrictions. I have tested it with new and the old and inducer and have the same issue. Any ideas?
What is model number to furnace ? And what size flue pipe with how many 90s ?
was a good video but WHY DIDN'T YOU CLEAN THE BLOWER WHEEL???,
good job.
You didn't have to prgram the new motor?
what is the best thermostat that you recommend.. I want to buy a wifi Google one ... but I don't know if they are any good
X13 is a junk motor. But that duct system is horrible so not surprised it failed. Probably will fail again. Would love to know static pressures..
Nothing wrong with X13 motors, they fail far less than PSC motors. But no motor is designed to work under those conditions.
@@ZERO-F2G- I've seen X13 motors fail just over a year old. PSC motors are more forgiving if your duct system is poor. They will last a while. X13 is not a true variable speed motor. It's bridge's the gap between psc and true variable speed motor which is constant cfm or constant flow. Those motors are more reliable then X13 constant torque junk.
how do you change the rotation on these, dont think they are all ccw?
What’s the brand of spray you used please?
When I get an ECM motor failure half the time it's because the filter hasn't been changed in the electronics overheated in the process..
Jesus that wiring is a mess. The weekend bubba special there.
wth, I have never seen that many golf clubs outside of an actual course clubhouse or store.
Have you ever seen a thermostat that displays a message to change filter.
My Honeywell model RTH2310B has that feature
lots of them have a filter reminder light, that nobody ever pays attention to lol
I hate those stupid bands around the motor. It’s like they don’t want u to take it off. Just a pain.
those ducts were diy Ted?
Why dont you clean the blades
Ted , since I'm the 1st comment ... Did I win the Fender Strat ... Lol ... Good vid a usual ...
I bet you did not go and get that zip tie lol
why replace the whole motor when you could have just changed the module?
You should have to have a license to use flex duct
What about WD40?
I love ECMs because the make them forced to install correctly... kinda.
change that meter battery yet? lol
Why Not Torch the motor out
Always hold your Phone sideways for full screen before you record no more Vertical Video please I hate the black side bars it makes it harder to see when you hold your phone like you making a call hold your phone like the old camera which is sideways remember your phone records full screen only sideways
good old noodle ducts....
Right angle attachment and pull the control head that is what failed 98% of the time
fmd.
cough first sign of corona cancer aids hiv bad heart bad kidneys e d or just dust in the air HEHEHEHE
I hate ECM Motors.. Thier junk..