Awesome! Yes, I am super pleased by the brake feel. And from what I can tell, from about a week of driving, the brake dust on my wheels of virtually nothing😄. OEM was baddd.
Outstanding!!! I have learned so much watching this channel!! I'm looking to do some upgrades and modifications to my 2014 ES350 and this channel has given me some great ideas. Plus my Lexus is gray as well. I look forward to seeing what's next. Great video!!!
Hi, this is an amazing video. Now, I'm confident enough to change it by myself. Last year, my local garage charged me £85 just to install them. Thank you so much
On the topic of rotors since everybody is talking about them, I’ve been thinking about getting double slotted rotors just for looks, but I feel it would be impractical as hell for longevity of the pads and for daily driving in general. Thoughts? Blanks vs Drilled and Slotted vs Double Slotted Also great vid, will def use this when changing brakes in the future. Have been eyeing this “upgrade” for around 1 year now😂 but don’t want to throw away perfectly good pads.
Great question! So.. drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted rotors really don’t do much more compared to blanks or stock blanks. They’re really just for looks. If you track your car, it could possibly help a little with heat dissipation. Therefore, if you’re wanting to go with drilled or slotted, either or really doesn’t matter. They’ll probably all act similar. Technically speaking, slotted have a lower chance of failing over time compared to drilled. And since those types of rotors are around the same price as an OEM rotor, most end up going with them when it’s time to change rotors. I probably will too. To properly get better braking power, upgrading to the ISF or GSF/ RCF brakes is the move. I will eventually do this. And I completely feel not wanting to throw away good pads 😄. I’ve had these new ones for a little bit, but waited until it was time to change the fronts.. then just changed them all. I’m loving the minimal dust that these produce. And the OEM pads had this little squeak at stop and go (minimal brake pressure) speeds. These new ones don’t AT ALL. So, love that too.
Thank you! I put my jack on the front and rear center jack points. They are a little hard to explain. For the jack stands, I recommend the frame rails! You can get little rubber jack stand pads so they sit against the frame rails easier.
Great video, thanks man! Also, your turbo noises seems louder than mine, not sure if it's just the video. I have Injen intake and TTi turbo muffler delete, do you have anything more than that?
Thank you! I’ve come to find that the HPS intake allows for more turbo noise. Not sure if it’s the size of the piping or the slightly larger filter, but it’s louder for some reason.
Thank you! And the clock/ clock face might be swappable, but definitely not the whole vent assembly. I’m not positive you can swap it, but I know that you can swap the clock from the RC to the IS and vice versa. 🙂
This was my first ever brake job of any sort. I was surprised how easy it was. Doing the rotors too isn’t hard either. So, I’d give it a 3or4/10 for difficulty.
It’s good to change them if you can run your finger/ nail across them and you can significantly feel the lines on them. There are also many cases where you can just get them resurfaced. But rotors last a while.
@@Grey3IS I saw that piece and was wondering if it was stong enough to hold, definitely feel better about that than on the diff. Did you place jack stands on the pinch welds or somewhere stonger?
@@adammiller161 You can place them on the pinch welds, but make sure to use rubber jack stand pads. I place my jack stands on the frame rails usually 🙂.
Almost a year later and this tutorial is still goated. Thanks man this helped a lot!!
@@TheBeeWolf Time flies 🥹.
I also switched to the same Akebono pads on my 2018 is300, super happy with the lack of break dust!
Front : AKEBONO ACT1118
Rear: AKEBONO ACT1391A
Awesome! Yes, I am super pleased by the brake feel. And from what I can tell, from about a week of driving, the brake dust on my wheels of virtually nothing😄. OEM was baddd.
Outstanding!!! I have learned so much watching this channel!! I'm looking to do some upgrades and modifications to my 2014 ES350 and this channel has given me some great ideas. Plus my Lexus is gray as well. I look forward to seeing what's next. Great video!!!
@@gaiusmarius2451 I glad I could help! Thank you for your support 🙂.
As always, thank you for this video, Grey! As always, very informative and helpful!
I appreciate that! 🙂
He's backkkk, I missed you
Yay! 🥳
I’m planning to change the rear rotors/pads on my 350 this evening, thanks for the video bro
Perfect timing!! 🥳
Hi, this is an amazing video. Now, I'm confident enough to change it by myself. Last year, my local garage charged me £85 just to install them. Thank you so much
I’m glad I could help! It’s definitely an easy job. You got this!
Thanks ❤ @@Grey3IS
love the content man
Thank you!
Great vid! I’m getting some r1 rotars soon
Nice!!
What kind of break system do you run?
Everything else is OEM 🙂.
On the topic of rotors since everybody is talking about them, I’ve been thinking about getting double slotted rotors just for looks, but I feel it would be impractical as hell for longevity of the pads and for daily driving in general. Thoughts? Blanks vs Drilled and Slotted vs Double Slotted
Also great vid, will def use this when changing brakes in the future. Have been eyeing this “upgrade” for around 1 year now😂 but don’t want to throw away perfectly good pads.
Great question! So.. drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted rotors really don’t do much more compared to blanks or stock blanks. They’re really just for looks. If you track your car, it could possibly help a little with heat dissipation. Therefore, if you’re wanting to go with drilled or slotted, either or really doesn’t matter. They’ll probably all act similar. Technically speaking, slotted have a lower chance of failing over time compared to drilled. And since those types of rotors are around the same price as an OEM rotor, most end up going with them when it’s time to change rotors. I probably will too. To properly get better braking power, upgrading to the ISF or GSF/ RCF brakes is the move. I will eventually do this.
And I completely feel not wanting to throw away good pads 😄. I’ve had these new ones for a little bit, but waited until it was time to change the fronts.. then just changed them all. I’m loving the minimal dust that these produce. And the OEM pads had this little squeak at stop and go (minimal brake pressure) speeds. These new ones don’t AT ALL. So, love that too.
Great video like always! I was wondering where you place your jack and jackstands? I’ve been placing it on the pinchwrlds and it’s been bending a lot
Thank you! I put my jack on the front and rear center jack points. They are a little hard to explain. For the jack stands, I recommend the frame rails! You can get little rubber jack stand pads so they sit against the frame rails easier.
@@Grey3IS yes I saw the jack points in the manual but I’ve never put the stands on the frame
Great video, thanks man!
Also, your turbo noises seems louder than mine, not sure if it's just the video.
I have Injen intake and TTi turbo muffler delete, do you have anything more than that?
Thank you! I’ve come to find that the HPS intake allows for more turbo noise. Not sure if it’s the size of the piping or the slightly larger filter, but it’s louder for some reason.
Amazing video! Do you know if the brakes are the same on the 4th gen IS?
Thank you! And yes, kinda. Y’all have an electric rear parking brake. So, that part is kinda different.
What's up player.. fire content. Hey its the 2021 front clock vent swappable?? The new one looks real nice. What you think?
Thank you! And the clock/ clock face might be swappable, but definitely not the whole vent assembly. I’m not positive you can swap it, but I know that you can swap the clock from the RC to the IS and vice versa. 🙂
@@Grey3IS nice nice. 👌 bout to make that happen
For someone that's never done it before, What would you say on a scale 1 - 10 how difficult to do brake pads and rotors on this?
This was my first ever brake job of any sort. I was surprised how easy it was. Doing the rotors too isn’t hard either. So, I’d give it a 3or4/10 for difficulty.
When would you change your rotors?
It’s good to change them if you can run your finger/ nail across them and you can significantly feel the lines on them. There are also many cases where you can just get them resurfaced. But rotors last a while.
Do you have the jack placed under the rear differential? Where do you place it exactly, I'm nervous to lift from this point since it isn't very flat
For the rear, the center jack point is right behind the rear differential. It’s kinda where both A-arms meet.
@@Grey3IS I saw that piece and was wondering if it was stong enough to hold, definitely feel better about that than on the diff. Did you place jack stands on the pinch welds or somewhere stonger?
@@adammiller161 You can place them on the pinch welds, but make sure to use rubber jack stand pads. I place my jack stands on the frame rails usually 🙂.
@@Grey3IS Thanks appreciate the help! Your videos have been very helpful