Sensei Mike, respect again. You must have been a gynecologist in a past life. You need good fingers just to mount the exhaust. 55 years ago my record was 16 minutes to change a Porsche 356 engine. Don't bug me anymore. hahaha
@@MikesRestorations It’s crazy to think how far this project has come. I think it’s been more than 4 years since I stopped by for a visit. I’m headed to Japan for several weeks this month and may be by your way this summer. Would love to stop by and say hello and check out the project if it works out. Keep up the awesome work!
@@derekmats Japan sounds like a blast! Its on my list of things to do this year depending on how things unfold going forward.. Please stop by anytime when you are in the area! It would be a pleasure=) perhaps by then we can take her out for a drive!!
Mike, with this video you have saved people hours of frustration and many barked knuckles. Great job again, showing how it's done and even the setbacks you experienced.
Hi Mike! You should place the split of the exchaust straps at the indent (cut-out of the flange) of the muffler. So the bolts will pass by the cut-out of the muffler flange.
Hello Jon The installation location here is from the shop manual referencing early exhaust strap location. Porsche may have later made a change like you are mentioning but I would not know what year the change was implemented. Thanks for the tip!
Phenomenal restoration! I’ve followed your post for sometime now. Very impressed with the work you’ve put into this well deserved beauty! Always looking forward to new post!
Hello Jonny No the exhaust system was painted with a ceramic coating sourced from Stoddard. It is not a Cerakote finish. After some time the exhaust system paint has begun to delaminate. I do not recommend coating with anything other than Cerakote. I will be re-doing mine in a future video, stripping, media blasting and re=applying with a Cerakote finish. Anything I have used Cerakote on my engine has performed %100%. It will make a fantastic exhaust system coating. The exhaust systems on the cars are quite large and in plain view. After awhile they all look terrible. Even stainless steel looks terrible. It will be interesting to see how Cerakote will hold up on the system. If it does it will certainly be a game changer for all early 911 912 exhaust systems looking for a reliable concours finish.
Excellent video - I do appreciate all the extra you have to do to make these great videos. One question: Do you know why there is no washer under the exhaust nuts?
Thank you annoo ..Not sure on the answer for that one but it may have something to do with the thick flanges and heat combo. A good question for the professional engine builders.. Kurt at Klassik Automotive Training school would be a good person to ask Cheers!
Hello Goodwood. The main advantage of copper hardware is it helps prevent corrosion of the shareware to the studs. If they were steel eventually driving in the rain with the extreme heat will solidify everything together. Copper has good thermal protection and also will not rust. Stoddard Carrie's some hardware and also Parts Klassik Good Luck!
any chance that the clamp design changed? I was wondering if the standoff on the clamp was not there if that would provide enough length for the bolt. Belmetric has socket head bolts in both 55, 60, and 70mm lengths.
Hello Jeff Not sure on the changes on the straps over the years. These look just like the ones showing in the shop manual for early cars. The bolts were just too short. I think I ended up going with 60 mm
any worries or issues with using copper nuts on steel for the exhaust? What are the complications here with using ss on both nut/bolt for mating the muffler
Hello Dustin The proper nuts to use are copper coated to prevent corrosion on extreme temperatures. SS will loosen and also the tinsel strength of SS is very low.. Around 2
Hello Jack, Yes it’s strange the bolt goes opposite to the other three but that is the only way it installs. The bump out on the heat exchanger won’t allow for the length of the bolt to slide through Cheers!
Sensei Mike, respect again. You must have been a gynecologist in a past life. You need good fingers just to mount the exhaust. 55 years ago my record was 16 minutes to change a Porsche 356 engine. Don't bug me anymore. hahaha
Finally caught up on the project after being away for a while. Such awesome camera angles. This series is a treasure trove!
Hello Derek
Good to have you back with us!
Wet are very close now to a complete and running car.
@@MikesRestorations It’s crazy to think how far this project has come. I think it’s been more than 4 years since I stopped by for a visit. I’m headed to Japan for several weeks this month and may be by your way this summer. Would love to stop by and say hello and check out the project if it works out. Keep up the awesome work!
@@derekmats Japan sounds like a blast! Its on my list of things to do this year depending on how things unfold going forward.. Please stop by anytime when you are in the area! It would be a pleasure=)
perhaps by then we can take her out for a drive!!
That would be amazing. In the meantime, I’ll keep enjoying the great content!
Mike, with this video you have saved people hours of frustration and many barked knuckles. Great job again, showing how it's done and even the setbacks you experienced.
Thanks Douglas,
Yes there always seems to be little setbacks with all these things. It’s nice to be able to bring some light to it.
Cheers!
Great as always! IMHO, I’d rather just listen to you work than the music. But I’ll keep coming back, regardless! The content to so good!
Thanks Kaplan
It’s just simply efforts to try and wake up the algorithm..
Not much success there though.
Perhaps we’ll kill the music and finish up!
Awesome!
Can.t wait to hear it! Great job again Mike
Thanks JP! me too😀 it won’t be long now
Hi Mike! You should place the split of the exchaust straps at the indent (cut-out of the flange) of the muffler. So the bolts will pass by the cut-out of the muffler flange.
And make sure to place them so You can unscrew them from the under side of the car
spot on.
Hello Jon
The installation location here is from the shop manual referencing early exhaust strap location.
Porsche may have later made a change like you are mentioning but I would not know what year
the change was implemented.
Thanks for the tip!
It looks incredible Mike, I can't wait to see you win Pebble. Great episode, thank you.
Thank Matthew
You have some grand aspiration’s
Cheers😉
I’m loving this build Mike. I don’t understand why you don’t have a million plus subscribers……
Thanks Gordon
UA-cams algorithm really puts the constraints on us..
But I do appreciate the comment
Cheers!
Awesome job mike!
Thanks RLH!
Bon boulot 👍 comme d’habitude vivement que ça tourne
Thank you Jean Philippe!
Phenomenal restoration! I’ve followed your post for sometime now. Very impressed with the work you’ve put into this well deserved beauty! Always looking forward to new post!
Thanks Fiuza
We are almost crossing the finish line now. Soon we will be able to enjoy the detailing and driving
Cheers!
It is with surgical precision, beautfull. Your garage looks more like a lab nowadays... :)
Thanks Remko
Could use a nice floor coating!😀!
Hey Mike! For the exhaust system/heat exchanger, did you use the same Cerakote as the fan?
Any rust prevention undercoat?
Hello Jonny
No the exhaust system was painted with a ceramic coating sourced from Stoddard. It is not a Cerakote finish.
After some time the exhaust system paint has begun to delaminate. I do not recommend coating with anything other than Cerakote.
I will be re-doing mine in a future video, stripping, media blasting and re=applying with a Cerakote finish.
Anything I have used Cerakote on my engine has performed %100%. It will make a fantastic exhaust system coating.
The exhaust systems on the cars are quite large and in plain view. After awhile they all look terrible. Even stainless steel looks terrible.
It will be interesting to see how Cerakote will hold up on the system. If it does it will certainly be a game changer for all early 911 912 exhaust systems
looking for a reliable concours finish.
Excellent video - I do appreciate all the extra you have to do to make these great videos. One question: Do you know why there is no washer under the exhaust nuts?
Thank you annoo ..Not sure on the answer for that one but it may have something to do with the thick flanges and heat combo.
A good question for the professional engine builders.. Kurt at Klassik Automotive Training school would be a good person to ask
Cheers!
So nice
Thanks Dan!
Hi Mike great videos, what’s the advantage of Copper hardware and where can we buy them?
Hello Goodwood.
The main advantage of copper hardware is it helps prevent corrosion of the shareware to the studs. If they were steel
eventually driving in the rain with the extreme heat will solidify everything together. Copper has good thermal protection and also will not rust.
Stoddard Carrie's some hardware and also Parts Klassik
Good Luck!
any chance that the clamp design changed? I was wondering if the standoff on the clamp was not there if that would provide enough length for the bolt. Belmetric has socket head bolts in both 55, 60, and 70mm lengths.
Hello Jeff
Not sure on the changes on the straps over the years. These look just like the ones showing in the shop manual for early cars. The bolts were just too short. I think I ended up going with 60 mm
Great job, What was the torque number,? did I see 35? was that NM, or ft. lbs? thanks
Thanks Blackfish .. would
Be NM
Cheers!
any worries or issues with using copper nuts on steel for the exhaust? What are the complications here with using ss on both nut/bolt for mating the muffler
Hello Dustin
The proper nuts to use are copper coated to prevent corrosion on extreme temperatures. SS will loosen and also the tinsel strength of SS is very low..
Around 2
@@MikesRestorations Thanks Mike!
Have you tried swapping the straps or are they identical?
Hello Magic
The straps are identical.. it was simply just too short of bolts being used.
I think 60 mm was the final verdict
Cheers!
Woot
One of the bolts isn't positioned in the same direction as the other three Mike. It's driving me nuts
Hello Jack, Yes it’s strange the bolt goes opposite to the other three but that is the only way it installs. The bump out on the heat exchanger won’t allow for the length of the bolt to slide through
Cheers!
I did it the hard way.