Good morning, I have watched over 1000 UA-cam videos on car repair and I have never saw a video as good as yours!!!!!! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ in that video on the stainless clips on how you put a screwdriver in between the rotor and the clip the push that tab back was excellent, how many times I pull the wheel off because that dang clip was rubbing, great job great video. God bless you. How do I find more videos that you make? 9:23
Good job on showing how to doing the brakes the only thing that I would recommend is first pull out the calipers slide pins clean off the old grease and re lube they with the proper high temperature grease make sure that they slide in and out freely and that the rubber boots are not torn or damaged and second get a brake fluid exchange or replacement every 3 to 4 years or around 75,000 miles to get the worn out and heat soaked brake fluid out of your systems that in the calipers area and the ABS motor areas this is a good maintaince tip if you plan on keeping your vehicle or if you live in a severe climate area or because of the temperature changes hot to cold, again good job on your video presentation
Thanks for the great video. I just finished doing just the rear pads. EPB is much easier if you jump 12v to it (after confirming polarity) and run it in while using a caliper compressor (no need to remove it from the caliper bracket). I had a cheap caliper compressor and since the caliper doesn't need to be rotated (like VW & Audi) you could even use a "C" clamp as long as you don't press against the EPB cover. Quickest brake job ever. Of course I did all the other usual brake job stuff.
I agree it’s a lot easier with 12V and I will use that method next time I do mine again. but you’d be surprised at the level of competence with most people lol I did not want to be blamed for someone over extending their piston after hooking it up to a 12V. So I figured manually backing the motor back slowly would be easiest and safest to follow.
@@sholomnb yes, you just take your 12V positive and negative and hook it up to the 2 prongs on the EPB motor. Then you check which way the piston is going, once you confirm it’s indeed going back then you just keep at it until it’s compressed.
Thanks for posting this! If you have a 12v source you can use alligator clips attached to the spade connecors on the epb motor plug. Make sure the polarity is correct, if the caliper piston comes out when you connect your 12v source, just reverse the polarity and you can spin out the epb. Then you can press the caliper piston inwards like normal. Cheaper than a $6000 scan tool. Cars are getting way too over complicated.
Sounds good did you grease the bolts on the caliper bracket? About to hit 100k highway miles here on a 2020 Kia Sportage SX-T I might make a video. Thanks for the help in the elec brake. I think I saw a video a couple years ago showing how to mess with electronic parking brake and it seemed like this was the same thing. Thanks for the refresher.
So I was able to get this done but after driving it I have an odd noise when braking. Sounds similar to the e brake when engaging. Anyone have any idea? Any help thank you
I honestly don’t remember I assume CCW. But I remember spinning it until I noticed it was letting the piston go back then I just kept up in that direction
Please tell me you know the answer to this because I can’t even get mine to retract I can turn the hex bolt both ways and now it’s too far out to the point where I can’t fit the brake caliber tool to help retract it back
@@quintinshelby hi, sorry I just saw your comment. So you kept spinning the hex bolt until the piston came way out? Spin it in the other direction and push it back with something, it won’t retract as you spin the hex bolt you have to spin it then push it back yourself
@@quintinshelby it shouldn’t be too hard to push it back with some sort of wedge or something that can fit in there and give you a little leverage. the caliper tool was overkill for mine. If it’s firm and won’t go back then you have to spin the hex in the opposite direction to retract the electric gear
Thank you. Yes I couldn’t find any torque specs I used a range I typically use on other cars. I think 52 lb ft for the caliper mount bolts and 22 for the caliper guides.
Interesting I always thought it was sketchy to remove the epb motor thing lol but I’m sure there are ways to put it in service mode for real where the epb disengages itself so you can just compress the piston normally. I just don’t know how to on a Kia since I work at Toyota
Yes most cars with EPB have service mode to disengage it but Kia/Hyundai does not. It has to be manually disengaged. The EPB is just an electric motor there is absolutely no issue with taking it off after unplugging it.
@ad8788 just seen a comment where a guy used a 9-volt battery to retract the Piston back in that's pretty badass I'm fixing to try this my wife has 66000 on her Kia Telluride
9 volt battery... There are other video showing that you can use a 9-volt battery or a 12 volt drill battery to get the electric parking brake motor to retract itself now. But this video is good to watch to see how everything else is done. Also if you're not comfortable putting a battery to the parking brake then this video is good for manual retraction.
@@ad8788 Also sorry to bother but are these caliper pistons compressed or do they have to be spun to retract them?! I saw in another video the person spun it and another where he just compressed them in!
2020 needing brakes? How many miles are on the vehicle? Edit - watched more of video. 40k miles and needing brakes already? That's quick... (I'm coming from driving a honda/lexus and they brakes lasted way longer then 40k)
When I just looked at my brakes, the fronts were ~50% warn but the rears were out. The front tires however are also out and the rears are fine. It's an odd wear pattern.
I've had one car before that wore rear brakes more. Big surprise given how many cars I have had. People new to doing brakes should also be aware that sometimes inside pads wear faster than outside. Need to be checking both.
Also when you spin the hex in either direction you have to go little by little and push the piston back manually as you go. You don’t want to keep spinning the hex in the wrong direction where it’ll overextend the piston. So you go little by little to figure out which direction retracts the electric gear and you know that by spinning a bit then pushing the piston and making sure it’s letting you push it back.
Thanks so much for responding I’m getting ready to head back out now to take another look at it hopefully a fresh pair of eyes will help also it literally took me 30 minutes to do the brakes and the rotor But the caliper with the EPB has been nothing but a pain in my side
@@quintinshelby yes the EPB is a pain. Just make sure you do little by little and try to push it back don’t go too far in either direction until you are sure you’re retracting the electric gear
You were absolutely 100% right just did it a little at a time to see which way it was retracting and I got it done in about 45 minutes your video in your assistance was so helpful thank you so much
Just an FYI, any brakes you buy at Advanced or any other local shop are complete garbage. Dealt with them for years and I always try to avoid them.... my OEMs ACDelco parts lasted 6 yearand multiples in miles compared to these junky parts. These last 2 years with very light driving.
For sure, OEM is always better quality. But for the price difference and availability it was worth it when I did these. Most of the issue here is rust so I go with coated whenever I can and that helps them last longer.
Hard video to follow with the camera moving constantly and at bad angles. Plus you fast forwarded through a lot. You NEED to find someone to do the camera work (and hold it steady) while you work on the car.
By all means---keep it up----but if you had a small tri-pod to mount your camera in ----this will keep both your hands free for tools and keep the camera steady----just a suggestion.
Just hit 46k on my Telluride, just noticed my brakes squeeking and grinding. I'm glad I watched this video
That’s about the time they go. Good luck
Good morning, I have watched over 1000 UA-cam videos on car repair and I have never saw a video as good as yours!!!!!! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ in that video on the stainless clips on how you put a screwdriver in between the rotor and the clip the push that tab back was excellent, how many times I pull the wheel off because that dang clip was rubbing, great job great video. God bless you. How do I find more videos that you make? 9:23
Good job on showing how to doing the brakes the only thing that I would recommend is first pull out the calipers slide pins clean off the old grease and re lube they with the proper high temperature grease make sure that they slide in and out freely and that the rubber boots are not torn or damaged and second get a brake fluid exchange or replacement every 3 to 4 years or around 75,000 miles to get the worn out and heat soaked brake fluid out of your systems that in the calipers area and the ABS motor areas this is a good maintaince tip if you plan on keeping your vehicle or if you live in a severe climate area or because of the temperature changes hot to cold, again good job on your video presentation
Thanks for the great video. I just finished doing just the rear pads. EPB is much easier if you jump 12v to it (after confirming polarity) and run it in while using a caliper compressor (no need to remove it from the caliper bracket). I had a cheap caliper compressor and since the caliper doesn't need to be rotated (like VW & Audi) you could even use a "C" clamp as long as you don't press against the EPB cover. Quickest brake job ever. Of course I did all the other usual brake job stuff.
I agree it’s a lot easier with 12V and I will use that method next time I do mine again. but you’d be surprised at the level of competence with most people lol I did not want to be blamed for someone over extending their piston after hooking it up to a 12V. So I figured manually backing the motor back slowly would be easiest and safest to follow.
@@ad8788 How would that work? You power it with 12V and it will just spin?
@@sholomnb yes, you just take your 12V positive and negative and hook it up to the 2 prongs on the EPB motor. Then you check which way the piston is going, once you confirm it’s indeed going back then you just keep at it until it’s compressed.
How far do you put it back when you're done? Or will the epb calibrate itself?
@@whty541 It will self adjust
kudos on putting this video together, extremely helpful and wouldn't have tried doing the brakes myself without seeing it first, thanks again....
THANK YOU SO MUCH for showing this!!!!!
Thanks for putting this video together. It helped me understand how to retract the caliper pistons on our 2020 telluride!
Thanks for posting this! If you have a 12v source you can use alligator clips attached to the spade connecors on the epb motor plug. Make sure the polarity is correct, if the caliper piston comes out when you connect your 12v source, just reverse the polarity and you can spin out the epb. Then you can press the caliper piston inwards like normal. Cheaper than a $6000 scan tool. Cars are getting way too over complicated.
I agree brother. Long gone are the days of just turning nuts and bolts. Now you have to be an electrician too.
Awesome tip, Thank you!!!!!!
Any body have issues with the epb light coming on after doing this?
Think this works for all newer KIAs with EPB
Worked perfectly on my sportage, Saved me 400 dollar.
How do you do this AFTER the EBS recall has been completed?
Thank you for uploading this! This is really helpful. Cheers from Norway :)
At 4:26 when I say “I got mine unplugged” I am referring to the EPB motor wiring harness not the brake line. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE
Sounds good did you grease the bolts on the caliper bracket? About to hit 100k highway miles here on a 2020 Kia Sportage SX-T I might make a video. Thanks for the help in the elec brake. I think I saw a video a couple years ago showing how to mess with electronic parking brake and it seemed like this was the same thing. Thanks for the refresher.
So I was able to get this done but after driving it I have an odd noise when braking. Sounds similar to the e brake when engaging. Anyone have any idea? Any help thank you
Sorry not sure what could cause that noise. So it makes that electronic whirring noise when you press the brake like it’s engaging the parking brake?
Which way do you spin the hex bolt inside the caliper to retract the piston (CW or CCW)?
I honestly don’t remember I assume CCW. But I remember spinning it until I noticed it was letting the piston go back then I just kept up in that direction
Please tell me you know the answer to this because I can’t even get mine to retract I can turn the hex bolt both ways and now it’s too far out to the point where I can’t fit the brake caliber tool to help retract it back
@@quintinshelby hi, sorry I just saw your comment. So you kept spinning the hex bolt until the piston came way out? Spin it in the other direction and push it back with something, it won’t retract as you spin the hex bolt you have to spin it then push it back yourself
@@quintinshelby it shouldn’t be too hard to push it back with some sort of wedge or something that can fit in there and give you a little leverage. the caliper tool was overkill for mine. If it’s firm and won’t go back then you have to spin the hex in the opposite direction to retract the electric gear
This was really helpful. Well done
I searched ‘Rotor’ replacement and NOT ONE SYLLABLE about the Rotors after EPB & HEX YADA YADA.
We’ll explain only question is How much did you Torque the bolts? this is the only video I can find on this thank!
Thank you. Yes I couldn’t find any torque specs I used a range I typically use on other cars. I think 52 lb ft for the caliper mount bolts and 22 for the caliper guides.
Thank you this video came in handy for sure 👍
Interesting I always thought it was sketchy to remove the epb motor thing lol but I’m sure there are ways to put it in service mode for real where the epb disengages itself so you can just compress the piston normally. I just don’t know how to on a Kia since I work at Toyota
Yes most cars with EPB have service mode to disengage it but Kia/Hyundai does not. It has to be manually disengaged. The EPB is just an electric motor there is absolutely no issue with taking it off after unplugging it.
@@ad8788 and how do you manually disengage it? With the button in the center console?
@@hubertguerard7047 yes just make sure the parking brake is not engaged when doing this.
@ad8788 just seen a comment where a guy used a 9-volt battery to retract the Piston back in that's pretty badass I'm fixing to try this my wife has 66000 on her Kia Telluride
Thanks bud, good video
do you need to spin the piston back or can you just compress it with a clamp?
The piston is the push type. No spin.
9 volt battery... There are other video showing that you can use a 9-volt battery or a 12 volt drill battery to get the electric parking brake motor to retract itself now.
But this video is good to watch to see how everything else is done. Also if you're not comfortable putting a battery to the parking brake then this video is good for manual retraction.
I used the 9v worked perfectly thanks for the tip.
Does the electronic brake reset itself back into position or did you manually put it back to its original position ?!
Just put it back as is and it’ll reset when you engage it again
@@ad8788 Also sorry to bother but are these caliper pistons compressed or do they have to be spun to retract them?! I saw in another video the person spun it and another where he just compressed them in!
@@stateboy80892 no problem, these just compress. No spin
Great review.
2020 needing brakes? How many miles are on the vehicle?
Edit - watched more of video. 40k miles and needing brakes already? That's quick... (I'm coming from driving a honda/lexus and they brakes lasted way longer then 40k)
48k miles. Rear brakes that’s pretty normal in Upstate NY. we get a lot of salt on the roads during winter.
@@ad8788 Understandable. Thanks for making the video. I've been dreading the rear brakes because of the EPB. This explains it perfectly.
Glad I could help. It’s not a big deal once you get the EPB taken care of it’s smooth sailing.
When I just looked at my brakes, the fronts were ~50% warn but the rears were out. The front tires however are also out and the rears are fine. It's an odd wear pattern.
I've had one car before that wore rear brakes more. Big surprise given how many cars I have had. People new to doing brakes should also be aware that sometimes inside pads wear faster than outside. Need to be checking both.
Thank you
I've got 66,000 miles on brake and just now changing them.
Thank u and parts are hard to find
Help !! Please!!
Hi quintin I replied on your other comment. Let me know if you saw it.
Also when you spin the hex in either direction you have to go little by little and push the piston back manually as you go. You don’t want to keep spinning the hex in the wrong direction where it’ll overextend the piston. So you go little by little to figure out which direction retracts the electric gear and you know that by spinning a bit then pushing the piston and making sure it’s letting you push it back.
Thanks so much for responding I’m getting ready to head back out now to take another look at it hopefully a fresh pair of eyes will help also it literally took me 30 minutes to do the brakes and the rotor But the caliper with the EPB has been nothing but a pain in my side
@@quintinshelby yes the EPB is a pain. Just make sure you do little by little and try to push it back don’t go too far in either direction until you are sure you’re retracting the electric gear
You were absolutely 100% right just did it a little at a time to see which way it was retracting and I got it done in about 45 minutes your video in your assistance was so helpful thank you so much
🙌🏽🙌🏽
Should be 14mm not 15
Just an FYI, any brakes you buy at Advanced or any other local shop are complete garbage. Dealt with them for years and I always try to avoid them.... my OEMs ACDelco parts lasted 6 yearand multiples in miles compared to these junky parts. These last 2 years with very light driving.
For sure, OEM is always better quality. But for the price difference and availability it was worth it when I did these. Most of the issue here is rust so I go with coated whenever I can and that helps them last longer.
@@ad8788 I have been buying OEM Acdelco brakes on amazon for same and cheaper then the junk from advanced auto and similar.
Hard video to follow with the camera moving constantly and at bad angles. Plus you fast forwarded through a lot. You NEED to find someone to do the camera work (and hold it steady) while you work on the car.
Or you need to stay away from car repairs
@@ad8788 LOL - No way - Keep it up!
By all means---keep it up----but if you had a small tri-pod to mount your camera in ----this will keep both your hands free for tools and keep the camera steady----just a suggestion.
Just close your eyes, listen and imagine.