Thanks Randy, and think of it this way, we're leaning over the top and looking down into the rabbit hole of clipper blades. There's a lot down there still to discover.
Great demo, Matt. This is absolutely the best and most comprehensive video I have seen on clipper blades. Sure, I am a fan, but anyone looking to add clipper blades to their sharpening service will not find a better primer with the pluses and minuses of this category. Thank you for the extreme generosity!
Doug, thanks so much for that super kind feedback! I want to emphasize your point that this was a primer...the intro. Each step deserves a deeper detailed look. There's still a lot for me to figure out but if I waited until I had it all figured out the video might never get made! Let me know if you decide to run with it.
Another excellent video - lots of elements here I'd not seen before in other videos.I think besides (or because of) the big investment one also has to commit to volume when sharpening clippers to pay off the gear. I really want to be able to sharpen them (mainly because I don't like that I can't) but that first step is a BIG one.
Great point. It takes a lot of $5-$8 sales to bring back the $1k - $2k initial investment. Especially if you include the value of your time. Tough one to get into with used gear too because it can be hard to know the condition of the plate which is a big fraction of the cost. Thanks again, Brad.
Great video. If I can make a suggestion. Test your tension last. I've found that when you test cut with them they can seat in a bit and move around. If you are on the light side of tension after you run it you can be under. If your going to be off, it's better to be slightly over, never under. I actually run all the blades twice, once before I check the tension to seat them in and again after I do test cutting. Last thing I always check is tension, it's so important.The reason I changed is I had two come back under tensioned. I know im super picky so it frustrated me when they came back (Two different customers) since I've been double running them and re confirming tension zero returns and that's where you want to be at. Also I will add Ceramic cutters in my experience need to be set a little on the heavy side NEVER on the lower side. Again had some returns and since I've started going a but heavier on the spring tension all has been good. Keep up the good work!
Dude, what a great comment! So many people stroke their ego in the comments sections on other people's videos, but you, man, you demonstrate clear knowledge experience and understanding and contribute value in a respectful way to improve the whole community. I don't know you, man, but I like you. Thank you so much. To your point, I agree. I've evolved over time to not check before taking them apart because I found that they were gummed up sometimes and gave a false reading. I always add a touch of tension during the cleaning phase, because you can relax them after assembly, but you have to take them apart to add any. I'll take on your point about favoring on the touch more rather than the touch less tension before sending them home. Thanks again. Much respect.
Last weeks GPS meeting got me curious about this. Thanks for the content. Lot of up front investment for the equipment. I guess if you hustle you can make it all back in a short time.
Yeah, I've been a hard sell on this but I'm coming around. That latest box of 15 in one shot helped me see how this might be better than I give it credit for.
Great channel! I've just started to sharpen as a student job, but do everything by hand due to space and cash limitations. About the hollow ground cutters: I don't see why a flat sharpening system wouldn't work. Even japanese single bevel knives with a hollow ground side (some scissors too) are usually sharpened on flat stones. Grinding the hollow surface deeper, if needed, would simply add another step. At least that's my take. Lastly, to determine if they are hollow ground and if their geometry has been respected, using a marker to spot the worked areas has helped me. Please correct me if I am wrong. Keep it up, you're an inspiration. Regards from Belgium.
Thanks Carlos! The analogy I heard ounce that stuck was that doing them flat ground is like putting the spare tire on the car. It'll work, it'll get you to the shop, but for long term performance you're better to sharpen hollow ground clippers with a hollow grind.
you're doing it just like i did it. i also use the startup oil for reassembly, i use a harbor freight 3 gallon parts washer with a simple greeen, water and H42 mixture for soaking and washing, and a small air compressor for blowing off. The square block you use where you stick in the end that matches the power clipper bayonet...that long block is also to adjust the rabbit ears of the socket, you use your pliers to straighten the ears if that makes sense...message me and i can explain better
hi how often should I charge my plate ? as in after how many blades ? I'm only starting to learn at mo and I'm unsure how often I should snd dint want to damage my plate tia
There are many factors that go into this and over time you'll develop a feel for it. When your plate is freshly charged you should see a full spark pattern coming off the tips. When that spark pattern dwindles, or you do a comparable amount of time on the plate but don't get a fresh surface on the clipper, it's time to recharge. There's a saying in sailing, when you think it's time to reef (take in sail) it's already too late, and that might apply here. If you're doing some blades and start wondering if you need to recharge your plate, maybe you should have done a before that last blade. Good luck!
It's a magnet. You might try extending your pointer finger down onto the blade to keep it under the magnet. Play around with how much pressure you are using as well. You'll get it.
Hello great video , I want to start sharpening my own clipper blades maybe in the future do it for a side gig. I know of this machine you have here but I wanted to know have you heard of Foley- belsaw clipper sharpening machine? What can you tell me about it ? I found a person selling his but want to know are there products still for it and parts if something happens thank you ahead of time...also the model is 354
So, the issue here is that Foley Belsaw has pretty much petered out. The plates do wear out over time, and it's kinda hard to tell how much life a plate has in it. Bottom line, my opinion, take a pass on that one and get into something from a company who is still getting after it, especially if you're looking to do this for hire. If you want to try it for just your own blades, if the price is right, sure, go for it. Hope that helps!
انا من مصر اعمل بمجال السن لاكن عندي مشكلة بعد سن سلاح الماكينة اطراف السلاح يمين ويسار تكون ضعيفة وفي الوسط يكون السلاح ممتاز في الحلاقة ممكن اعرفة الاسطوانة السن مخروطية كم ملي من اعلي الي اسفل وبدرة الصنفرة المستخدمة كم درجة نعومتها اسف على الإطالة احيك علي الفيديو ❤❤❤
I am considering getting the mini sharpening system, I have a kennel and spend a tremendous amount of money buying new blades. I appreciate your video and wanted to ask about the sharpening of the #7 blades, etc. that are larger, do you also sharpen the teeth?
I'm not sure I fully understand you. The clipper is made of a comb and cutter and in most cases I sharpen both. The Little Red that I use works for #7's but maybe not so much for the bigger clippers that are used for horses and sheep and such. Hope that helps.
Great video Matt, One of the portable 10" machines has come up for sale in my area that I am looking at purchasing. I'm trying justify whether or not I should spring for it or wait and eventually get one of the larger machines. I don't expect clipper blades to be a huge part of my business but I have found that I'm getting a lot of requests for clippers and that usually comes with scissors or other tools and I'm missing out on all of it because I don't do the clippers. How do you find the 10" machine works for your business? Do you wish you had a larger one?
Hey J. I'm hoping to upgrade to the bigger one this year, it's somewhere around number 2 on my planned business investments. Please make the choice that is best for you, but for myself, with hindsight, I kinda wish I'd kept saving up and just got the big one on the first time. Cheers!
@@capnmatt41 Thanks Matt, that's exactly what I was thinking. The larger model would be easier and more efficient but I can at least get into the market and see how much work there is with the smaller unit. It's kind of a chicken and egg thing, if I knew that would be doing a lot of clippers I would get the larger one right from the start but it's a big investment and my money can be better spent on other equipment at this point in my journey.
I would give you some tips.When you take apart the clipper blades you dont have to look at the tension,take them apart then rub them against a big steel round block zick zack and in 8 form,then sharpening them then wash them with oster cleaner chemicals ,when you are washed them then look too fix the ”ears”and the feather whos on the backside on the clipper then put them togheter and then use the tool to fix the metal peace who going in to the machine,then use a magnetizer and then before testing then adjust the tension otherwise its gonna take long time for you to fix one blade..you dont have too take away rost with the polish machine becuse it will fall apart when you washing them with oster wash chemicals so you win at least 10 min for each blade..
Hard to understand what you're saying but to add tension you have to take them back apart, which is why I check tension before starting. Unless I'm missing something...let me know.
Hi Matt , loving the vids: could you not get the same type of grind using a 12 inch glass pan lid, using wet and dry? I know this sounds like some sort of hack, but there are many tutorials that flat grind clippers, and then there are those who insist on hollow grinding. Personally I think they couldn't sell expensive machines if they are intended to be flat ground. Just thinking out of the box with the pan lid thing. 😁 The whole point of the hollow grinding is so the teeth touch only. If too much surface area touches you get problems with friction, and overheating, which shortens the life of the clipper blade, and the clipper. If you cup your hands and simulate the cutting motion with your fingers, leaving your palms free of contact; that's how they should work: with minimal contact. I'll be sure to watch all your tutorials .
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Paul. I'm only as good as the information I receive and what I put into practice. As a professional sharpener always trying to do the best and get better I have no motivation to pursue the idea you propose. I do appreciate your thoughts on the matter, so thank you!
Hi great video … my wife is a groomer and she spends a fair bit on having her sheers and clipper blades sharpened , I won’t touch sheers , but I’m really considering buying one of these machines to sharpen my wife’s blades and possibly other groomers in my area would u recommend a 16 inch machine ? I also noticed they’re is a treyco 3000 which holds the clippers on the surface of the table they move back and fourth , that way you don’t have to hold them or apply any pressure any thoughts if you know the machine I’m referring to Thx
I can send you a video how to do it step by step ..time is money what would you do if a customer send you 20 clipper blades?its gonna take you 2 days if you do like you show in video and time is money my friend..even when you clean the sharpening mashine use booth chemicals and 180 grit powder not 240 becuse 240 is to bih corn but i cant see wich you use i hope you use 180 best regards and good luck
Wow ... There is quite a bit more to clipper blades than I thought. Thanks for a better insight into the process Matt. Great tutorial.
Thanks Randy, and think of it this way, we're leaning over the top and looking down into the rabbit hole of clipper blades. There's a lot down there still to discover.
Nice full process video. Tks!. I used painting brush for cutting test.
Great demo, Matt. This is absolutely the best and most comprehensive video I have seen on clipper blades. Sure, I am a fan, but anyone looking to add clipper blades to their sharpening service will not find a better primer with the pluses and minuses of this category. Thank you for the extreme generosity!
Doug, thanks so much for that super kind feedback! I want to emphasize your point that this was a primer...the intro. Each step deserves a deeper detailed look. There's still a lot for me to figure out but if I waited until I had it all figured out the video might never get made!
Let me know if you decide to run with it.
Oops, I just seen the information in the description. Thanks again
Correct "set-back" is crucial when reassembling the clipper blade.
Agreed. How do you do it? Gunsight the line or do you use a tool?
@@capnmatt41 Just eyeball it! But different blades have different set-backs for best efficiency.
\
Great video I really enjoyed watching it and I learned so much, Cheers!
Thanks Luke!
Thanks for making such informative videos!
My pleasure!
Another excellent video - lots of elements here I'd not seen before in other videos.I think besides (or because of) the big investment one also has to commit to volume when sharpening clippers to pay off the gear. I really want to be able to sharpen them (mainly because I don't like that I can't) but that first step is a BIG one.
Great point. It takes a lot of $5-$8 sales to bring back the $1k - $2k initial investment. Especially if you include the value of your time.
Tough one to get into with used gear too because it can be hard to know the condition of the plate which is a big fraction of the cost.
Thanks again, Brad.
Nice video Matt. Very well done. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, Tim!
Hallo matt. Best video and good lesson there.
Thank you!
@@capnmatt41 matt how much is the machine cost?
Awesome video, thank you for sharing your learning experience.
Where can I get the honing machine?
Great video. If I can make a suggestion. Test your tension last. I've found that when you test cut with them they can seat in a bit and move around. If you are on the light side of tension after you run it you can be under. If your going to be off, it's better to be slightly over, never under. I actually run all the blades twice, once before I check the tension to seat them in and again after I do test cutting. Last thing I always check is tension, it's so important.The reason I changed is I had two come back under tensioned. I know im super picky so it frustrated me when they came back (Two different customers) since I've been double running them and re confirming tension zero returns and that's where you want to be at. Also I will add Ceramic cutters in my experience need to be set a little on the heavy side NEVER on the lower side. Again had some returns and since I've started going a but heavier on the spring tension all has been good. Keep up the good work!
Dude, what a great comment!
So many people stroke their ego in the comments sections on other people's videos, but you, man, you demonstrate clear knowledge experience and understanding and contribute value in a respectful way to improve the whole community.
I don't know you, man, but I like you. Thank you so much.
To your point, I agree. I've evolved over time to not check before taking them apart because I found that they were gummed up sometimes and gave a false reading.
I always add a touch of tension during the cleaning phase, because you can relax them after assembly, but you have to take them apart to add any.
I'll take on your point about favoring on the touch more rather than the touch less tension before sending them home.
Thanks again. Much respect.
Thanks man. I started clipper blades a few months ago and 90% are as easy as your video but man some of those blades have definitely tested me.
Have you noticed any commonalities among the ones that don't turn out well?
Last weeks GPS meeting got me curious about this. Thanks for the content. Lot of up front investment for the equipment. I guess if you hustle you can make it all back in a short time.
Yeah, I've been a hard sell on this but I'm coming around. That latest box of 15 in one shot helped me see how this might be better than I give it credit for.
Excellent video much needed advice
Thank you!
What is the brand of your machine and were to by machine and wheel thank you
Andre
Nebraska Blades machine sold by The Edge Pro
Great channel! I've just started to sharpen as a student job, but do everything by hand due to space and cash limitations. About the hollow ground cutters: I don't see why a flat sharpening system wouldn't work. Even japanese single bevel knives with a hollow ground side (some scissors too) are usually sharpened on flat stones. Grinding the hollow surface deeper, if needed, would simply add another step. At least that's my take. Lastly, to determine if they are hollow ground and if their geometry has been respected, using a marker to spot the worked areas has helped me.
Please correct me if I am wrong. Keep it up, you're an inspiration.
Regards from Belgium.
Thanks Carlos!
The analogy I heard ounce that stuck was that doing them flat ground is like putting the spare tire on the car. It'll work, it'll get you to the shop, but for long term performance you're better to sharpen hollow ground clippers with a hollow grind.
what is the powder grit you used before sharpening process on the plate?
you're doing it just like i did it. i also use the startup oil for reassembly, i use a harbor freight 3 gallon parts washer with a simple greeen, water and H42 mixture for soaking and washing, and a small air compressor for blowing off. The square block you use where you stick in the end that matches the power clipper bayonet...that long block is also to adjust the rabbit ears of the socket, you use your pliers to straighten the ears if that makes sense...message me and i can explain better
Thank you!
hi how often should I charge my plate ? as in after how many blades ? I'm only starting to learn at mo and I'm unsure how often I should snd dint want to damage my plate tia
There are many factors that go into this and over time you'll develop a feel for it. When your plate is freshly charged you should see a full spark pattern coming off the tips. When that spark pattern dwindles, or you do a comparable amount of time on the plate but don't get a fresh surface on the clipper, it's time to recharge.
There's a saying in sailing, when you think it's time to reef (take in sail) it's already too late, and that might apply here. If you're doing some blades and start wondering if you need to recharge your plate, maybe you should have done a before that last blade.
Good luck!
@@capnmatt41 thank you ill be catious so 😊
What is thé name of your équipement and were to buy them ? ANDRE Canada Québec thank you
What do you use to grip the blade to sharpen it? Ive used magnets but I’ve experienced the blade being launched across the room
It's a magnet. You might try extending your pointer finger down onto the blade to keep it under the magnet. Play around with how much pressure you are using as well. You'll get it.
Hello great video , I want to start sharpening my own clipper blades maybe in the future do it for a side gig. I know of this machine you have here but I wanted to know have you heard of Foley- belsaw clipper sharpening machine? What can you tell me about it ? I found a person selling his but want to know are there products still for it and parts if something happens thank you ahead of time...also the model is 354
So, the issue here is that Foley Belsaw has pretty much petered out.
The plates do wear out over time, and it's kinda hard to tell how much life a plate has in it.
Bottom line, my opinion, take a pass on that one and get into something from a company who is still getting after it, especially if you're looking to do this for hire.
If you want to try it for just your own blades, if the price is right, sure, go for it.
Hope that helps!
Cool video man. Curious as to what grit that compound is. Thanks man.
Thanks Brad. That was 240 Grit, came with the kit.
Right on. Thanks ya
What size magnet are you using (dimensions) and where did you purchase it? Thank you
How much do you charge to sharpen clippers?
Please I want to know how the surface of the disc for sharpening blades is hollowed out on the lathe?
Sorry man, I don't know the answer to your question.
What's the name of the powder you use to sharpening the clipper blades?
It's grit. Check out The Edge Pro website
انا من مصر اعمل بمجال السن لاكن عندي مشكلة بعد سن سلاح الماكينة اطراف السلاح يمين ويسار تكون ضعيفة وفي الوسط يكون السلاح ممتاز في الحلاقة
ممكن اعرفة الاسطوانة السن مخروطية كم ملي من اعلي الي اسفل
وبدرة الصنفرة المستخدمة كم درجة نعومتها
اسف على الإطالة
احيك علي الفيديو ❤❤❤
What type of air compressor do you use and what do recommend.
I'm thinking about a compressor with a 150psi rating
I have a little 3 gallon Craftsman, 125 psi max and it's plenty.
Hi please advice where to buy machine and price
Please am having difficulties assembling my machine...like the nuts for instance where do they fits somebody help please
Hopefully this is something you can take up with the business that sold you the tool.
Always buy from a reputable vendor.
I am considering getting the mini sharpening system, I have a kennel and spend a tremendous amount of money buying new blades. I appreciate your video and wanted to ask about the sharpening of the #7 blades, etc. that are larger, do you also sharpen the teeth?
I'm not sure I fully understand you.
The clipper is made of a comb and cutter and in most cases I sharpen both.
The Little Red that I use works for #7's but maybe not so much for the bigger clippers that are used for horses and sheep and such.
Hope that helps.
Hello sir, please where can I get the blade sharpening machine? Thanks
Nebraska Blades machines are now being sold through The Edge Pro
www.theedgepro.com/
Great video Matt,
One of the portable 10" machines has come up for sale in my area that I am looking at purchasing. I'm trying justify whether or not I should spring for it or wait and eventually get one of the larger machines.
I don't expect clipper blades to be a huge part of my business but I have found that I'm getting a lot of requests for clippers and that usually comes with scissors or other tools and I'm missing out on all of it because I don't do the clippers.
How do you find the 10" machine works for your business? Do you wish you had a larger one?
Hey J.
I'm hoping to upgrade to the bigger one this year, it's somewhere around number 2 on my planned business investments.
Please make the choice that is best for you, but for myself, with hindsight, I kinda wish I'd kept saving up and just got the big one on the first time.
Cheers!
@@capnmatt41 Thanks Matt, that's exactly what I was thinking. The larger model would be easier and more efficient but I can at least get into the market and see how much work there is with the smaller unit. It's kind of a chicken and egg thing, if I knew that would be doing a lot of clippers I would get the larger one right from the start but it's a big investment and my money can be better spent on other equipment at this point in my journey.
I would give you some tips.When you take apart the clipper blades you dont have to look at the tension,take them apart then rub them against a big steel round block zick zack and in 8 form,then sharpening them then wash them with oster cleaner chemicals ,when you are washed them then look too fix the ”ears”and the feather whos on the backside on the clipper then put them togheter and then use the tool to fix the metal peace who going in to the machine,then use a magnetizer and then before testing then adjust the tension otherwise its gonna take long time for you to fix one blade..you dont have too take away rost with the polish machine becuse it will fall apart when you washing them with oster wash chemicals so you win at least 10 min for each blade..
Hard to understand what you're saying but to add tension you have to take them back apart, which is why I check tension before starting.
Unless I'm missing something...let me know.
Hi Matt , loving the vids: could you not get the same type of grind using a 12 inch glass pan lid, using wet and dry? I know this sounds like some sort of hack, but there are many tutorials that flat grind clippers, and then there are those who insist on hollow grinding. Personally I think they couldn't sell expensive machines if they are intended to be flat ground. Just thinking out of the box with the pan lid thing. 😁
The whole point of the hollow grinding is so the teeth touch only. If too much surface area touches you get problems with friction, and overheating, which shortens the life of the clipper blade, and the clipper. If you cup your hands and simulate the cutting motion with your fingers, leaving your palms free of contact; that's how they should work: with minimal contact. I'll be sure to watch all your tutorials .
I'm sure you could make a jig to help you set the blades.
Thanks for watching and for your comments, Paul.
I'm only as good as the information I receive and what I put into practice.
As a professional sharpener always trying to do the best and get better I have no motivation to pursue the idea you propose.
I do appreciate your thoughts on the matter, so thank you!
That a big heart bigbrother. I need a machine to work with and I want your help to reach to me.
Hey man, the machine is the Nebraska sold through The Edge Pro. Let me know how I can help. Cheers.
How I can buy the machine sharpening please ?
Not sure that I'm understanding you, but if you're looking to purchase a clipper sharpener you can visit sharpening supplies dot com
Do you have email?
Hi great video … my wife is a groomer and she spends a fair bit on having her sheers and clipper blades sharpened , I won’t touch sheers , but I’m really considering buying one of these machines to sharpen my wife’s blades and possibly other groomers in my area would u recommend a 16 inch machine ? I also noticed they’re is a treyco 3000 which holds the clippers on the surface of the table they move back and fourth , that way you don’t have to hold them or apply any pressure any thoughts if you know the machine I’m referring to
Thx
hi David, want to do this job in my country as a trimer blade charpener need profational charpining tool can you recommend anything to me? thx
Where I can buy this sharpener plate or machine can u please give me the link or contact
Sure, here you go: www.theedgepro.com/
Can I get a video on how to assemble my brand new Nebraska blade please
What’s up with the huge wad of cash by the sink on display?
Partly why I'm so amped to help people start their own sharpening business.
its a socket :o)
Thank you!
I can send you a video how to do it step by step ..time is money what would you do if a customer send you 20
clipper blades?its gonna take you 2 days if you do like you show in video and time is money my friend..even when you clean the sharpening mashine use booth chemicals and 180 grit powder not 240 becuse 240 is to bih corn but i cant see wich you use i hope you use 180 best regards and good luck
how can i talk to you, give me instagram or facebook of you