Unraveling averted. ToT's amazed you got time-travel capability out of such a small lathe -- must be the ELS mod eliminating all of the change gear drag.
ToT has known the whole time. I assume he has to be watching some UA-cam on his travels. He’s just got some epic response waiting for us in our future.
James....a little trick I learned many moons ago regarding engraving......used to put several layers of clear scotch tape down on the surface to be engraved, then would do a like drag over the tape and it would provide a preview of the engraving....if it was all good, remove the tape and set the Z axis to the correct depth and let it rip.
@@Clough42 Yes, I saw one of your other replies on it's power. Those servos really are worth the money. I'll have to speak with my accountant (Her indoors) about acquiring a few for, you know, when the need arises.
It seems unnerving that timeline paradoxes are so common in lathe videos 🙂 Leadscrews are essentially worm gear components, which of course are associated with worm holes, but the ELS offers direct control of time, no worm hole required. TOT needs to upgrade to ELS.
To conserve the work effort in the cleaning and polishing of the brass surface, I recommend using Nikolas Lacquer. It is bulletproof in its application, if the surface has been cleaned properly, and very durable - used extensively in the brass instrument world. Nice video James - and congrats again on the 4-jaw challenge … I hear they are going with 6 jaw this year, so gird your loins!
James, Got to admit, when you began the actual engraving, my pucker power had me "glued" to the seat......end product looks great and you showing how to make the floating tip was excellent.....sparked an idea for a project I was considering......keep up the GREAT vids and keep em coming....
You know, I have to admit, I've been a LONGTIME viewer/subscriber. I have loved just about every single video you have made (except for maybe the coffee?) LMAO. I've also realized that I am terrible with the like button! So now I have to go through all of your videos AGAIN and like them all. 😀
I use a tungsten carbide scribe bit to mill pcb's at 2000mm/min. Those are fantastic bits. I have never used it to engrave anything yet, but I cannot wait to do that. I have a PCB Maker to GCode software product coming out in the next week or so and it produces GCode made for super fast scribe bit milling of PCB's (printed circuit boards), for electronics. I have milled pcb board after pcb board at 2000mm/min, one pass, with no shorts. It obviously requires Auto Level, but my controller NewRAD CNC software has that now. This is an amazingly beneficial process that I have been working on. If you need a PCB in like 20 minutes for mills and drills, and you don't want to use chemicals, which is actually a much harder and more time consuming process, and uglier and more expensive because you have to buy those chemicals. Those tungsten carbide bits are very cheap and will last for 2 to 3 boards, up to 4 or 5 boards if pushing it. In fact, one of those bits may be usable for much longer than I think, as a wider cut could not be a bad thing I do not think.
I backed out and restarted a couple of times, and that didn't help, either. I'm not sure if it's the tailstock, the stackup of arbor, chuck, and reamer, or if the reamer is bent. It came out close enough when I re-did it with one smooth plunge. It's probably worth more investigation. But if it is too high or low, that would explain why it doesn't turn a taper.
@@Clough42 Yes, then you turned the part around and at about 11:50 you start re-drilling to be able to tap for the set screw and it looks to me like the drill moves slightly - perhaps just an artifact from the reamer. Btw, the way you explain everything in your videos is exemplary.
I don't know the CNC software your controller uses, but a lot of then have z-axis compensation for warped surfaces. They first do a depth probe (can be improvised easily, since it is conductive, no need for a fancy probe) across the surface and create a distortion map and apply it on the fly, without changing the g-code. Common names for this are auto-leveling, surface levelling or surface mapping. If your controller can't do it, there are standalone g-code modifiers that take the map and existing g-code and write warped g-code. I've done this to engrave complex curved surfaces with a v-cut bit in thin plastic. I don't have one of those spring loaded diamond drag engravers and I'm not sure if they even work on plastic. And I'm also happy that you didn't mess up the timeline ;)
It's all arbitrary. I could just as easily have driven in the screw further to get more preload on the other end and then driven a shorter distance into the part.
For your own future reference if this ever happens to you again, if you take a photo of text you can find webpages that you can upload it to that will tell you what font it is. I think in this case using your font was more appropriate and looks nice. However if you you are ever required to match a font that above method works great especially if your forging documents…wait what?
ive been waiting to see the kind of surface finish you are able to get in aluminum with that mill, as soon you confirm its better than or equal to a bench mill ill buy it
@@Clough42 I get it, time is often not friendly, I know what it’s like to have things sitting there that you want to play with but can’t because of other obligations. Thanks! Looking forward to what that avid can do. I saw a guy on Instagram who filled his avid bed with epoxy granite, I’m waiting to see how that would benefit the machine.
I'm a little curious on the VFD, anything below ~35% of motors rated Hz, had heating of the windings. This was in 1,000 hp motors. You weren't running it long though. Best wishes from the far North.
I appreciate all the videos on this channel... But I am eagerly waiting to see the results of the benchtop pro cutting steel. Other UA-camrs have done this but I'm hoping the mass of the fixture plate shows an improvement in surface finish.
@@Clough42 you have a captive audience. I am considering a similar build due to the limited Y travel on a Tormach. Langmuir just threw us a curve ball with the MR-1, which is in a much lower price tier. The spindle is ER20 with no possibility of an ATC... So I assume that means setting Z after every manual tool change. However, it does come with an enclosure and support for flood coolant. Trying to use a garage as a shop means being as limited by space as cost. If a $10K doesn't fit all of ones needs, it may be a near total loss if you don't have room for a 2nd or 3rd "mill" if different capabilities.
this so should have been the April's fools vid, not that we didn't like the espresso one, but we all had that "hope the gcode doesn't mess up" feeling. make a replica of the belt and have the machine mash it, and stamp in a nice aprils fools message :) before finishing the real one of course.
It looks like every drill you're using is getting deflected. That would make sense to me why it would get harder the deeper you go. Maybe your tailstock is out of alignment.
@@Clough42 Maybe the tailstock bore is not parallel with the bed ? You wouldn't notice this with a centre but when you switch over to something that projects further out you will .
I believe it's a CTW-10-150 from Maritool. The wrench and all of the different collet adapters are sold separately. I also picked up an open-end wrench adapter for tightening pullstuds.
James, is it possible to get a link to the diamond tip you used? I am trying to design a holder to attach it to my crossfire pro to mark bend lines on sheet metal. Thanks!
Overall, yes. It's been very solid and predictable. There are some really obvious things that I'm surprised it doesn't do out of the box, though, like a 1/2 function for centering up on parts. Once I have the probe, it probably won't matter, though.
@@Clough42 A half year ago I started converting the lathe to a CNC. I use a Teensy 4.1 and a couple of servo motors for this. I have done the basic operations (facing, turning, threading, parting, cone turning, ball turning), most of them quite automatically. With buttons and LEDs and an OLED display and a jogging dail. I'm now at about 7000 lines of program code and haven't gotten around to a gcode interpreter yet. I don't want to spend all my free time programming, I am already do this for work. So I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to use an Acorn CNC software/hardware instead ?
It still seems like you would want to map the surface with auto level, even with the spring loaded engraver, just so the pressure is uniform. And if you do that, you don't really need the spring loaded diamond tipped tool. By the way, which one works better? I have seen your videos with the diamond tip and they look good.
![How To Engrave Glass On a CNC Router [With A Drag Bit], Glass Etching](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TvmUO3Cvxmk/mqdefault.jpg)
Unraveling averted. ToT's amazed you got time-travel capability out of such a small lathe -- must be the ELS mod eliminating all of the change gear drag.
ToT has known the whole time. I assume he has to be watching some UA-cam on his travels. He’s just got some epic response waiting for us in our future.
James....a little trick I learned many moons ago regarding engraving......used to put several layers of clear scotch tape down on the surface to be engraved, then would do a like drag over the tape and it would provide a preview of the engraving....if it was all good, remove the tape and set the Z axis to the correct depth and let it rip.
I love the fact that you made your own tool. That was inspiring.
When I grow up I want to be James Clough and have all of those cool tools. Great video, thanks.
You've got plenty of good years left.
Wow! The silence of the new machine is deafening. Great job James.
I'm impressed. It's also terrifyingly powerful. It rapids from 0 to 400IPM in 0.05 seconds, using only 10% of it's reserve torque.
@@Clough42 Yes, I saw one of your other replies on it's power. Those servos really are worth the money. I'll have to speak with my accountant (Her indoors) about acquiring a few for, you know, when the need arises.
It seems unnerving that timeline paradoxes are so common in lathe videos 🙂
Leadscrews are essentially worm gear components, which of course are associated with worm holes, but the ELS offers direct control of time, no worm hole required. TOT needs to upgrade to ELS.
When he started messing around trying to make larger gears for that mini lathe, I tried to get his attention, but didn't get anywhere. :)
I made spring loaded (gravity is the spring) sharpie holder I can use in a collet and use it to confirm engraving
Look at the big brain on Chris! That's a good idea.
To conserve the work effort in the cleaning and polishing of the brass surface, I recommend using Nikolas Lacquer. It is bulletproof in its application, if the surface has been cleaned properly, and very durable - used extensively in the brass instrument world. Nice video James - and congrats again on the 4-jaw challenge … I hear they are going with 6 jaw this year, so gird your loins!
16:05 I was told a Dad joke is the best means of becoming square to the world.
Idea - get a whiteboard or sharpie-style marker that fits in your collet, and run the test program so it draws in the part rather than up in the air ?
Sometimes you ask for ideas for proyects, I have one. CNC Digital Duplicator, good video.
I think this should be a tool in everyone’s shop that has a CNC … I can think of so many uses.
That W1 drill rod was growly.
Gronk 😆
3/4" Collet would allow you to use Annular cutters. That is another good use-case.
There's no way on earth this 12000RPM spindle will have the torque to spin an annular cutter.
James, Got to admit, when you began the actual engraving, my pucker power had me "glued" to the seat......end product looks great and you showing how to make the floating tip was excellent.....sparked an idea for a project I was considering......keep up the GREAT vids and keep em coming....
I was really puckering, too.
Excellent job, congratulations, belatedly.
Love that engraving tool.
Thanks for sharing.
You know, I have to admit, I've been a LONGTIME viewer/subscriber. I have loved just about every single video you have made (except for maybe the coffee?) LMAO. I've also realized that I am terrible with the like button! So now I have to go through all of your videos AGAIN and like them all. 😀
Yay, diamond drag engraving for the win! Cool.
I use a tungsten carbide scribe bit to mill pcb's at 2000mm/min. Those are fantastic bits. I have never used it to engrave anything yet, but I cannot wait to do that. I have a PCB Maker to GCode software product coming out in the next week or so and it produces GCode made for super fast scribe bit milling of PCB's (printed circuit boards), for electronics. I have milled pcb board after pcb board at 2000mm/min, one pass, with no shorts. It obviously requires Auto Level, but my controller NewRAD CNC software has that now. This is an amazingly beneficial process that I have been working on. If you need a PCB in like 20 minutes for mills and drills, and you don't want to use chemicals, which is actually a much harder and more time consuming process, and uglier and more expensive because you have to buy those chemicals. Those tungsten carbide bits are very cheap and will last for 2 to 3 boards, up to 4 or 5 boards if pushing it. In fact, one of those bits may be usable for much longer than I think, as a wider cut could not be a bad thing I do not think.
I miss this old tony too we need to chip in and get him a kid sitter so he can get back to pumping out the machining videos
Generating content on a regular basis is a real commitment. If I had kids at home, I probably wouldn't be doing it, either.
10:39 you can see that the reamer jumps up, so the tailstock is too high. For this reason, it came out oversize.
I backed out and restarted a couple of times, and that didn't help, either. I'm not sure if it's the tailstock, the stackup of arbor, chuck, and reamer, or if the reamer is bent. It came out close enough when I re-did it with one smooth plunge. It's probably worth more investigation. But if it is too high or low, that would explain why it doesn't turn a taper.
@@Clough42 It seems there is an alignment problem when drilling for the tap and again when the tap starts.
@@jimruddy6083 I forgot to face the second side first, so the drill didn't center properly.
@@Clough42 Yes, then you turned the part around and at about 11:50 you start re-drilling to be able to tap for the set screw and it looks to me like the drill moves slightly - perhaps just an artifact from the reamer.
Btw, the way you explain everything in your videos is exemplary.
Happy Easter to you and your family. Greetings from germany.
I don't know the CNC software your controller uses, but a lot of then have z-axis compensation for warped surfaces. They first do a depth probe (can be improvised easily, since it is conductive, no need for a fancy probe) across the surface and create a distortion map and apply it on the fly, without changing the g-code. Common names for this are auto-leveling, surface levelling or surface mapping. If your controller can't do it, there are standalone g-code modifiers that take the map and existing g-code and write warped g-code. I've done this to engrave complex curved surfaces with a v-cut bit in thin plastic. I don't have one of those spring loaded diamond drag engravers and I'm not sure if they even work on plastic. And I'm also happy that you didn't mess up the timeline ;)
I'll be making a try for the belt this year. Gonna have to practice quite a bit to have a chance, though.
I got my vfd set up the same way for my jog it’s 10% does awesome for threading
i hope the contest will be a 4 jaw holding a 3 jaw holding a cube .. that would be interesting
Yes, it would. The final object last year was pretty devious.
James you forgot to leave room to add 2022👍🤞🤪
Nice one, I would have puckered on that second cycle start. You know it's going back to zero, but is it?
Thanks for sharing.
Good luck on the bash I got my money riding on you 👍👏👏👏
nice job . I'm looking at a scribe attachment for my plasma table. ill be able to scribe and cut in the same op. no tool change. for crafts- art work
Maybe some renaissance wax would keep that from tarnishing
Love catching AvE language in the wild 😂
Why not make a graving insert from a sharpy for doing the test runs
Not a bad idea at all.
See you at the bash! I won't be trying to take the belt... I really suck at 4-jaw.
That's more preload, -.100", than I would have thought. looks good
It's all arbitrary. I could just as easily have driven in the screw further to get more preload on the other end and then driven a shorter distance into the part.
For your own future reference if this ever happens to you again, if you take a photo of text you can find webpages that you can upload it to that will tell you what font it is.
I think in this case using your font was more appropriate and looks nice. However if you you are ever required to match a font that above method works great especially if your forging documents…wait what?
The problem is that you have centered the text, so it's going to look imbalanced when you add 2022 to the end
It will look fine once he goes around to the other end.
ive been waiting to see the kind of surface finish you are able to get in aluminum with that mill, as soon you confirm its better than or equal to a bench mill ill buy it
I think that mostly comes down to tooling and cut parameters. I have too many projects going at once. :)
@@Clough42 I get it, time is often not friendly, I know what it’s like to have things sitting there that you want to play with but can’t because of other obligations. Thanks! Looking forward to what that avid can do. I saw a guy on Instagram who filled his avid bed with epoxy granite, I’m waiting to see how that would benefit the machine.
Hi could you explain me why you use a spring for engraving point?. Looks very good technique
Fine ❤ sir how many deep engraving possible in this diamond tool ?
I came expecting some instruction and some smack talk - got what I came for…
I'm a little curious on the VFD, anything below ~35% of motors rated Hz, had heating of the windings. This was in 1,000 hp motors.
You weren't running it long though.
Best wishes from the far North.
I appreciate all the videos on this channel... But I am eagerly waiting to see the results of the benchtop pro cutting steel. Other UA-camrs have done this but I'm hoping the mass of the fixture plate shows an improvement in surface finish.
Yeah. Me, too. I have some wiring to do still, and I've been waiting on parts.
@@Clough42 you have a captive audience. I am considering a similar build due to the limited Y travel on a Tormach. Langmuir just threw us a curve ball with the MR-1, which is in a much lower price tier. The spindle is ER20 with no possibility of an ATC... So I assume that means setting Z after every manual tool change. However, it does come with an enclosure and support for flood coolant.
Trying to use a garage as a shop means being as limited by space as cost. If a $10K doesn't fit all of ones needs, it may be a near total loss if you don't have room for a 2nd or 3rd "mill" if different capabilities.
Did you write the program in Fusion 360? It doesn't like 0 RPM on the spindle...
Oh, *that* belt. From the video title, I thought, Whahuh?!"
Would have been a even more interesting pice if this included a direct sk30 adapter :)
this so should have been the April's fools vid, not that we didn't like the espresso one, but we all had that "hope the gcode doesn't mess up" feeling. make a replica of the belt and have the machine mash it, and stamp in a nice aprils fools message :) before finishing the real one of course.
That would have been a lot of work, but totally worth it. If I did April fools videos. Which I don't. :)
Your letters are bigger than Adam's. That's cheeky.
I just measured again to be sure, and they're exactly the same size. The different font and curve radius do make it kind of look that way.
ooh... what kind of wrench/pliers was that? that looked pretty neat.
Knipex Pliers Wrench. Link in the video description.
It looks like every drill you're using is getting deflected. That would make sense to me why it would get harder the deeper you go. Maybe your tailstock is out of alignment.
Maybe. It doesn't turn a taper, though. Worth investigating further.
@@Clough42
Maybe the tailstock bore is not parallel with the bed ? You wouldn't notice this with a centre but when you switch over to something that projects further out you will .
@@ianbertenshaw4350 maybe
James, what torque wrench/collet nut adapter are you using in this video?
I believe it's a CTW-10-150 from Maritool. The wrench and all of the different collet adapters are sold separately. I also picked up an open-end wrench adapter for tightening pullstuds.
@@Clough42 Thanks for the info.
James, is it possible to get a link to the diamond tip you used? I am trying to design a holder to attach it to my crossfire pro to mark bend lines on sheet metal. Thanks!
tormach.com/120-degree-replacement-diamond-drag-engraver-bit-32453.html
Just an accident that your font is a little bit bigger?
Good thing this didn't drag on...?
When do we get to see the router hogging some steel?
Wat rapids speed did you get with the servos?
400IPM. Accelerating from stop to 400IPM in 0.05 seconds requires about 10% of available torque. :)
@@Clough42 wow. That's going to need a beefy stand
Nice work ! Do you like that CNC software ?
Overall, yes. It's been very solid and predictable. There are some really obvious things that I'm surprised it doesn't do out of the box, though, like a 1/2 function for centering up on parts. Once I have the probe, it probably won't matter, though.
@@Clough42 A half year ago I started converting the lathe to a CNC. I use a Teensy 4.1 and a couple of servo motors for this. I have done the basic operations (facing, turning, threading, parting, cone turning, ball turning), most of them quite automatically. With buttons and LEDs and an OLED display and a jogging dail. I'm now at about 7000 lines of program code and haven't gotten around to a gcode interpreter yet. I don't want to spend all my free time programming, I am already do this for work.
So I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to use an Acorn CNC software/hardware instead ?
It still seems like you would want to map the surface with auto level, even with the spring loaded engraver, just so the pressure is uniform. And if you do that, you don't really need the spring loaded diamond tipped tool. By the way, which one works better? I have seen your videos with the diamond tip and they look good.
is this something that people actualy want to wear?
What's a "gun tap"?
A spiral-point tap is also commonly called a gun tap.
Does anybody remember the missing names? Fame is so fleeting.
I don't thing they had a bash from 2018 to 2020.
The videos from 2018, 2019, and 2020 are all on UA-cam.
The only mistake I see is you didn't leave yourself enough room to add a few more years after your name ;)
👍👍😎👍👍
Good job engraving the Unnecessarily Gendered 4-jaw Belt.