Chris, it’s possible to calculate exactly how much front weight you need. Here’s how: Put your bathroom scale under a rear wheel and measure the weight with you sitting in the cart. Say it’s 200 lbs per wheel. Now measure the front wheel weight. Maybe it’s 75 lbs with you in it. So at the moment the front wheels lift, the total load on the rear axle is 200x2+75x2=550 lbs. Now those rear wheels are 16” in diameter, so that’s an 8” lever arm. The best traction possible is about 1,. Now measure the wheelbase, say that’s 60”. So the front axle weight needs to be at least 8/60*550=73 lbs. Of course, use your actual numbers.
@@travisraplee6648 the engine torque, plus the gearing, is assumed to be more than enough to lift the front wheels, or spin the rear tires. If the torque were lower than this, then the front wheels would never lift.
Hopefully you can find yourself a good piece of land with shop near by, give yourself some more room to enjoy your builds for testing and bring us all this amazing content in a newer form, keep up the great work!
@@foxwolfworkshed5080 Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México ua-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/v-deo.html
You could make the upper bars length adjustable and lock them with a bolt with butterfly nut to adjust overall height of the wheely bar. The farther forward you install those weights, the more they will help keep the front down.
Wow man that reminds me when I was a young boy my people had a cottage up north in Michigan mini bikes motorcycle trail bikes go-karts speed boats water skiing that's a part of my life I'll never forget thanks
Why didn't you take the longer piece and weld brackets to the front of the frame, and then hang it off the front? The further forward you put the weight the better it'll be.
That central weight is adding traction to the rear tires, I bet it does a better burn-out without it, or better yet stick that weight in front of the front frame cross member.
*Only idea , on wheelie bar , lower bars mounted with flexable joints and upper use a adjustable coil over shock so not to kill your back and have some adjustment ?
Would be cool if the wheelie bar could be removed and turned up-side-down, to have that second angle. This way you wouldn't need to carry a second bar, just rotate the it. Super awesome build tho Brother. Be safe :)
Interesting idea, could you just make one set of wheely bars that are the right length so that you could just flip 'em upside down to switch between wheelie mode and non-wheelie mode?
Seems like the wheelbase coulda been extended moving the seat forward. Would also give space to add a jackshaft and more brake behind the seat. Also seems like the first wheelie bar could have been made to be flipped for each position. My prospective from a 6" screen..
Truckers use load binders to tighten chains that hold their loads down. With less than $100 and a little welding and modification, you can adjust the wheel from 0" to about 6" or more. Farm tractors with 3-point hitches have a top link. One day later: I was at HF today. They had one of those 3-point top links that are used to adjust the 3-point attachments. Looked extremely well built. $23
I'd just figure out front brakes. More room and 2 more wheels to share the load. That thing is a beast. I've seen people drag race snowmobiles at the drag strip and they will outrun most cars
You need to tackle the debris problem just outside the RBW shed door! LMFAO every time you did it! Doh! I just new, you were gonna stop and comment on the mess you made but you never did......LOL!
Hell Yeah Brother! You have got to take that thing to a drag strip! I can't wait to see you test that monster kart! That's no longer a "Go-Kart" with that engine it's a "Gone-Kart!"
So, how many times did you sweep the floor? Lol. Love the exhaust on that thing! When you first laid your hand on it after the intro I cringed because I thought it was hot! When your skin didn’t stick to it, I realized you must have shot the vid in a different sequence. 👍🇺🇸
Rather than add weight to the front (also worried about the poor spindles), I would have gone with slicks for donuts etc. Shame you couldn't have made a wheelie bar that could be flipped upside down to change modes. Awesome build though!!
Hey Chris I love your videos!! You may want to look into the wheelie bar have springs so that when I makes contact with the ground it can pivot into a spring so that all of the load isn’t slammed into the frame at once. If you come up hard enough it’s going to try to lift the rear axle off of the ground as well. Just a thought.
I love how you test the wheelie bar, just lift it with controlled violence and maximum muscle contraction and it comes out of such immediate shock in just as good shape as it went in so logically speaking it must be pretty good as a wheelie bar, its the way I think too and its worked pretty well :P
Cool Build, got to love the 2 Stroke power! I can just imagine how crazy that triple is on that tiny light Kart!! I have a 540 snowmobile powered Kart that's 700lbs and its fast!
That thing looks soooo damn fun!! My family has about 20+ snowmobiles up north and I need to get one to make something like this for down south here in AR.
Nice job...with four symmetrical mounts you probably could have figured out a way to just turn the wheelie bars upside down and got the same effect...basically a right triangle. Looks like a blast to drive!
You could put in a chain driven jack shaft with the brake disk on it. It's not an eloquent solution but it allows for a lot more placement options and a significantly larger disk. Some of the subaru wagons have a e brake that goes to the front wheels instead of the rear. One of these disks and calipers will give you options for cable or hydraulic brakes.
IMO you could make a adaptor for that second wheelie bar and have a spoiler in the back.. That would look pretty cool i would think, almost like a Pikes Peak runner.
I would be worried about the front spindles letting go, when you dropped the kart you can see how much they flexed. A front mounted disc would add some support at least.
You might look at how general aviation aircraft brakes are set up. Might be able to get dual brakes set up designing something similar. A good example you can search… Cleveland wheels and brakes. Basically they are designed into the wheel rim with minimal clearance outside of the wheel. They do it to reduce drag primarily, but similar application might work for you.
This thing is crazy ! I think that next projects should be a dragster vehicle or a mini drift car (i would love to watch you build a drift car in the future with the skills you have). I am watching you from Greece.Good job and keep going ;)
I didn’t scroll through comments yet, probably already said but… you don’t need ‘more weight’ you need the weight farther forward. Light is fast, just position it farther in front of the front tires like make the round stock like a removable front bumper instead of 40 lbs behind the front tires move that back weight forward. Make the most of your weight distribution
I couldn't wait until you bought out this project again. my kart has quite a few of the same issues as that one. I burnt the brakes off of it the last time I took it out. so I'm working on that. I also have a problem with it being too lite in the front. it works fine on the pavement and hard dirt. but it won't steer on the grass. I'm going take a 3"X3" square tube and fill it with lead. I should be able to come up with about eighty or ninety pounds in a pretty small space.
Id have to agree that you without a doubt need front brakes. As a former motorcycle racer I know how much front braking does the actual slowing VS the rear which was used primarily for trail braking to tighten up your line and to help back a bike in if that was your thing. When we would prep race bikes wed often remove tbe rear brake resevoir altogether, and just use the rubber hose that normally connected the resevoir to the master cylinder. Then we would purposely add air into the system to make it spongy and discourage rear wheel lock up by a ham footed rider hahaha. Yes, four wheels are more than two wheels, but up until fairly recently if you were spinning wrenches on your own vehicles, youd know that when you did brakes, often times your rear pads or shoes looked like they werent even broken in. You could get real trick and add a bias valve too. That thing has waaaaaaay too much motor to not have front brakes. Remember too, your front and rear tire pressures are going to have massive say in just how much grip you get, even with those chevron patterned rears.If you raise the front pressures, less grip and more push. Lower them, more grip and less push. Too low however and you can get rim roll. The rears, same type of results; higher pressures give you less traction/grip, less of a contact patch, but gives you more wheelspin. Lower pressure = bigger contact patch, more grip laterally and straighty. Too low however and sadness ensues lol. Always check them cold of course!!! I finally got some of my street riding friends to try my suggested tire pressures, usually around 29-31 psi front, 26-28 psi rear, depending on temperature, rider skill, bike/tire type etc. Youd think these guys all got brand new bikes, they were all freakin amazed. Yes, I know that lower pressures make the tires wear faster. Big friggin deal. Ill take quicker warm up times and more grip any day. I enjoy spooning on a nice new set of Avons onto my GPz550 lol!
I always enjoy your videos. You make some really interesting vehicles. I can't help but wonder , with as many vehicles as you have made, and the longstanding issues you have had with the neighbor, how you have been unable to locate a testing location.
Great work! Why not make the bottom 2 joint rotate over the bottom part of the cage (a bigger tube over a smaller tube). Than do the same for top part on the tyre end. And make the top part on the frame end a rod or plate with adjustment holes where you can attach a bolt or quick release pin through the top cage.
I'd recommend taking the front brakes and all of the components from a quad and getting them to work on this. You could even use the rear brake setup as well.
Slot the rotor on your brakes and it will stop better. Your not running it on a track so your not getting abusive break heat heat so slot that rotor up good and that should be an a good upgrade
Love the build, you may want to spin your can on the exhaust around so its facing down, oil can build up in there and run out of the tip, if it's up side down the oil has no place to go.
Awesome piece of machine you build, if the front doesn't stay down you can try adding little more weight on the tip of the nose, up there a little goes a long way
I had one of those engines in my XLT SKS, they are very finicky engines. I ended up giving it to my buddy who makes things out of other things, much like you. I got tired of it not running right once off the trailer, literally after running perfect in the shop.
I know this is not the safest idea but you could put a brake disc on your jackshaft in addition to your rear axle disc. Correct jetting will make a huge difference to the drive-ability. Do you have the choke hooked up correctly, use it for the first or second pull even in the warm weather. I'm sure you have had a 2 stroke weed wacker, those you have to choke until the first firing, even then you may still have to use ½ choke to start it. I owned Polaris XLT's for about 10 years, they are very temperamental in weather above 35°. You will need to install smaller main jets and adjust your needle and probably reduce the needle jets 1 or 2 sizes. I will see if I can find a picture of a carb jet recommendation.
Any chance for front brakes? So you don't die. You ripping on that is my favorite video. Sickest go cart ever. Looking forward to more rc car style wheelies. Good job
You can make your disk out of thicker steel to help with break fad but it won't help stopping power, you need diameter for that. also remove the mill scale for better grip.
Watching you build the two sets of wheelie bars, I realized that you could build one triangled brace. The offset would be enough to keep the front end on the ground. The remove and flip it over to allow for max wheelies. Of course, you would have to build a quick release system to make it perfect. I hope this is clear enough. I have PD have trouble with wrds
That thing is a weapon man, thanks heaps for the videos you do, really awesome builds, just sayin man, think you are under rated that's for sure! cheers from Australia
Easier way of easy adjustment would have been to make a wheelie bar with a big tire and then when you put that smaller tire on it, it would be the higher wheelie adjustment so the adjustment would simply be the same wheelie bar but with two different size tires would be your adjustment. Obviously you’d not get that much of a adjustment as you built but still would been a good test with out building two completely different wheelie bar sets
I'm continually amazed at how much excessive weight is added to your creations - this is essentially a 5-wheeler and would have been so much easier to bring about something shorter with a flat skateboard wheel.
Don't have the wheelie bar all the way on the ground. If you do that the drivetires have less traction if you know what I mean. Have the wheelie bar 1-2 inches above the ground. (Edit:) Wrote this comment before you made the wheelie bar :P Seems like you made it pretty much perfect :)
Chris, it’s possible to calculate exactly how much front weight you need. Here’s how: Put your bathroom scale under a rear wheel and measure the weight with you sitting in the cart. Say it’s 200 lbs per wheel. Now measure the front wheel weight. Maybe it’s 75 lbs with you in it. So at the moment the front wheels lift, the total load on the rear axle is 200x2+75x2=550 lbs. Now those rear wheels are 16” in diameter, so that’s an 8” lever arm. The best traction possible is about 1,. Now measure the wheelbase, say that’s 60”. So the front axle weight needs to be at least 8/60*550=73 lbs. Of course, use your actual numbers.
What about engine torque? I'd say your not gonna get a good idea of how much weight is necessary without factoring in rotating torque.
@@travisraplee6648 the engine torque, plus the gearing, is assumed to be more than enough to lift the front wheels, or spin the rear tires. If the torque were lower than this, then the front wheels would never lift.
Hopefully you can find yourself a good piece of land with shop near by, give yourself some more room to enjoy your builds for testing and bring us all this amazing content in a newer form, keep up the great work!
aaaaaaaaaaammmmmeeennnn!!!!!!
Couldn't have said it better!
Part of the charm of his content, is what he can build in this little shed...
Keep liking and commenting and sharing his videos and we all can help him and other super cool creative people get to there dream shops!
@@foxwolfworkshed5080 Toda América sería un solo país es México en un futuro próximo el idioma oficial sería en español México va ser el primer mundo México será potencia mundial vivA México querido México
ua-cam.com/video/7uJhjQvJDh4/v-deo.html
I love his laugh so much, and he's right, that thing is nuts!
You laughing at 16:35! That shit had me laughing. You transformed into an 8 year old on Christmas morning.
Priceless brother!!
😂😂
Just redo the front spindles to have front breaks. I dont wanna see you die man. This thing definitely needs better breaks
Or brakes, whatever they are...
Always a great Sunday with a Rather Be Welding video! Can't wait to see the other projects finished up! The sled kart, is an absolute rocket!
You could make the upper bars length adjustable and lock them with a bolt with butterfly nut to adjust overall height of the wheely bar.
The farther forward you install those weights, the more they will help keep the front down.
Wow man that reminds me when I was a young boy my people had a cottage up north in Michigan mini bikes motorcycle trail bikes go-karts speed boats water skiing that's a part of my life I'll never forget thanks
Why didn't you take the longer piece and weld brackets to the front of the frame, and then hang it off the front? The further forward you put the weight the better it'll be.
That central weight is adding traction to the rear tires, I bet it does a better burn-out without it, or better yet stick that weight in front of the front frame cross member.
*Only idea , on wheelie bar , lower bars mounted with flexable joints and upper use a adjustable coil over shock so not to kill your back and have some adjustment ?
Agree. I did that on a drift trike I made in to a sand hill climber. It helps a LOT
Would be cool if the wheelie bar could be removed and turned up-side-down, to have that second angle. This way you wouldn't need to carry a second bar, just rotate the it. Super awesome build tho Brother. Be safe :)
Just what I was going to comment 👍
Thinking the same thing
Was just about to comment that, wouldn’t be hard if it was mounted with pins, just unpin flip over and pin it back
@@xxxxxxxxxxx82 Great minds my friend lol
@@zero99ification Totally agree my friend :)
Interesting idea, could you just make one set of wheely bars that are the right length so that you could just flip 'em upside down to switch between wheelie mode and non-wheelie mode?
Seems like the wheelbase coulda been extended moving the seat forward. Would also give space to add a jackshaft and more brake behind the seat.
Also seems like the first wheelie bar could have been made to be flipped for each position.
My prospective from a 6" screen..
Truckers use load binders to tighten chains that hold their loads down. With less than $100 and a little welding and modification, you can adjust the wheel from 0" to about 6" or more. Farm tractors with 3-point hitches have a top link. One day later: I was at HF today. They had one of those 3-point top links that are used to adjust the 3-point attachments. Looked extremely well built. $23
Rather B Welding has become a Sunday tradition for me. Another awesome video!
Added nice badass winch to the front of it. That way you can take the wheelie bar off and make it look like a badass off-road go-kart.
I instantly hit the like button with an opening to a video like that! This thing is awesome! Nothing beats the sound of a triple!
I'd just figure out front brakes. More room and 2 more wheels to share the load. That thing is a beast. I've seen people drag race snowmobiles at the drag strip and they will outrun most cars
LOL. “Let’s worry about the brakes later,right now we need wheelie bars!”
@10:00 Lady walking down the street with dog “What the hell is going on? Is he spawning satan in that shed??”
I was cringing when that steel hit the glass scale 😆. Great video man
Very impressive one of top best go-karts on youtube No Doubt .
Should've made a double tube removable front bumper out of that round stock, would've looked better and kept the weight as far forward as possible
By far one of the baddest things you've built I love it
Great work! Glad to see the fire extinguisher in arms reach, super smart.
Maybe try it like tractor pull they have the weights across the front end where you can take them off if need be
You need to tackle the debris problem just outside the RBW shed door! LMFAO every time you did it! Doh! I just new, you were gonna stop and comment on the mess you made but you never did......LOL!
Hell Yeah Brother! You have got to take that thing to a drag strip!
I can't wait to see you test that monster kart!
That's no longer a "Go-Kart" with that engine it's a "Gone-Kart!"
So, how many times did you sweep the floor? Lol. Love the exhaust on that thing! When you first laid your hand on it after the intro I cringed because I thought it was hot! When your skin didn’t stick to it, I realized you must have shot the vid in a different sequence. 👍🇺🇸
That thing is just badass!
Could you theoretically add another jackshaft and just build it for a brake disc and caliper? Just asking on this one
Yes but if the chain brakes on that jack shaft then the brakes would go along with it.
@@FukTheGovernment465 I see your point there. Just a thought. I appreciate the insight
@@justinmoran9866 No problem man.
ua-cam.com/channels/Z08AKbOBuaQC0sh8hcI5nQ.html؟
That thing is nuts. It's a freakin death trap. I want one. LOL
So nice to see nothing has changed in 4 years, just bigger toys lmao
Rather than add weight to the front (also worried about the poor spindles), I would have gone with slicks for donuts etc. Shame you couldn't have made a wheelie bar that could be flipped upside down to change modes. Awesome build though!!
Add a jack shaft to the rear axle with twin rotors and calipers for brakes.
Triple to stay on theme
Hey Chris I love your videos!! You may want to look into the wheelie bar have springs so that when I makes contact with the ground it can pivot into a spring so that all of the load isn’t slammed into the frame at once. If you come up hard enough it’s going to try to lift the rear axle off of the ground as well. Just a thought.
I love how you test the wheelie bar, just lift it with controlled violence and maximum muscle contraction and it comes out of such immediate shock in just as good shape as it went in so logically speaking it must be pretty good as a wheelie bar, its the way I think too and its worked pretty well :P
Cool Build, got to love the 2 Stroke power! I can just imagine how crazy that triple is on that tiny light Kart!! I have a 540 snowmobile powered Kart that's 700lbs and its fast!
The exhaust is sooooo close, roasties imminent!
Thanks for having a brother that welds
That thing looks soooo damn fun!! My family has about 20+ snowmobiles up north and I need to get one to make something like this for down south here in AR.
I have been waiting ALL day. That thing is amazing.
Nice job...with four symmetrical mounts you probably could have figured out a way to just turn the wheelie bars upside down and got the same effect...basically a right triangle. Looks like a blast to drive!
Good vid man. It's all about those smiles per hour. Keep up the great work.
You could put in a chain driven jack shaft with the brake disk on it. It's not an eloquent solution but it allows for a lot more placement options and a significantly larger disk. Some of the subaru wagons have a e brake that goes to the front wheels instead of the rear. One of these disks and calipers will give you options for cable or hydraulic brakes.
You’re going to want springs on those or it will pull the rear wheels off the ground
IMO you could make a adaptor for that second wheelie bar and have a spoiler in the back.. That would look pretty cool i would think, almost like a Pikes Peak runner.
I would be worried about the front spindles letting go, when you dropped the kart you can see how much they flexed. A front mounted disc would add some support at least.
The front spindles are sprung. That’s why they move so much. You can see the springs when he’s adding and checking the front weights.
Lol… the music makes me wanna drink a Madelo beer.!!😂😂🤪🤦🏻♂️
A short travel adjustable damped wheelie bar would be luxury.
You might look at how general aviation aircraft brakes are set up. Might be able to get dual brakes set up designing something similar. A good example you can search… Cleveland wheels and brakes. Basically they are designed into the wheel rim with minimal clearance outside of the wheel. They do it to reduce drag primarily, but similar application might work for you.
This thing is crazy ! I think that next projects should be a dragster vehicle or a mini drift car (i would love to watch you build a drift car in the future with the skills you have). I am watching you from Greece.Good job and keep going ;)
I didn’t scroll through comments yet, probably already said but… you don’t need ‘more weight’ you need the weight farther forward. Light is fast, just position it farther in front of the front tires like make the round stock like a removable front bumper instead of 40 lbs behind the front tires move that back weight forward. Make the most of your weight distribution
there is usually a spring or some sort of compression on the top link to cushion up and down movement of the cart doing wheelies
Good work on the remembering turning
You could put the lower on a pivot and make the upper bar adjustable and you can adjust on the fly with a telescoping arm. Best of luck great videos
You could use 1 wheelie bar just make is able to unbolt and flip the wheelie bar up side down for a different height
I couldn't wait until you bought out this project again. my kart has quite a few of the same issues as that one. I burnt the brakes off of it the last time I took it out. so I'm working on that. I also have a problem with it being too lite in the front. it works fine on the pavement and hard dirt. but it won't steer on the grass. I'm going take a 3"X3" square tube and fill it with lead. I should be able to come up with about eighty or ninety pounds in a pretty small space.
Love this thing! Now I know what to do with my old snowmobile! Thanks
That thing is crazy fast. Like you gotta be crazy to ride it.
Id have to agree that you without a doubt need front brakes. As a former motorcycle racer I know how much front braking does the actual slowing VS the rear which was used primarily for trail braking to tighten up your line and to help back a bike in if that was your thing. When we would prep race bikes wed often remove tbe rear brake resevoir altogether, and just use the rubber hose that normally connected the resevoir to the master cylinder. Then we would purposely add air into the system to make it spongy and discourage rear wheel lock up by a ham footed rider hahaha. Yes, four wheels are more than two wheels, but up until fairly recently if you were spinning wrenches on your own vehicles, youd know that when you did brakes, often times your rear pads or shoes looked like they werent even broken in. You could get real trick and add a bias valve too. That thing has waaaaaaay too much motor to not have front brakes. Remember too, your front and rear tire pressures are going to have massive say in just how much grip you get, even with those chevron patterned rears.If you raise the front pressures, less grip and more push. Lower them, more grip and less push. Too low however and you can get rim roll. The rears, same type of results; higher pressures give you less traction/grip, less of a contact patch, but gives you more wheelspin. Lower pressure = bigger contact patch, more grip laterally and straighty. Too low however and sadness ensues lol. Always check them cold of course!!! I finally got some of my street riding friends to try my suggested tire pressures, usually around 29-31 psi front, 26-28 psi rear, depending on temperature, rider skill, bike/tire type etc. Youd think these guys all got brand new bikes, they were all freakin amazed. Yes, I know that lower pressures make the tires wear faster. Big friggin deal. Ill take quicker warm up times and more grip any day. I enjoy spooning on a nice new set of Avons onto my GPz550 lol!
I always enjoy your videos. You make some really interesting vehicles. I can't help but wonder , with as many vehicles as you have made, and the longstanding issues you have had with the neighbor, how you have been unable to locate a testing location.
Great work! Why not make the bottom 2 joint rotate over the bottom part of the cage (a bigger tube over a smaller tube).
Than do the same for top part on the tyre end. And make the top part on the frame end a rod or plate with adjustment holes where you can attach a bolt or quick release pin through the top cage.
Love the priority here - Wheelie bar first, brakes sometime later.
I'm happy to see this happen, now I can't wait for the real test.
I'd recommend taking the front brakes and all of the components from a quad and getting them to work on this. You could even use the rear brake setup as well.
Slot the rotor on your brakes and it will stop better. Your not running it on a track so your not getting abusive break heat heat so slot that rotor up good and that should be an a good upgrade
Research clutch adjustment you can change the weights and springs in the clutch so it engages hard at higher rpm like a drag snowmobile
Hahaha! That opening was gold!! So freakin awesome!! 🤣
Love the build, you may want to spin your can on the exhaust around so its facing down, oil can build up in there and run out of the tip, if it's up side down the oil has no place to go.
@Quirin M. what does that have to do with what I am saying?
@Quirin M. 🤣🤣 good old YT
Awesome piece of machine you build, if the front doesn't stay down you can try adding little more weight on the tip of the nose, up there a little goes a long way
best bet is to add front brakes, but in the meantime you could combat the brake fade with some air ducting to cool them down
08:30 wondering out loud whether or not you could have just flipped the first bar upside down to automagically become the 2nd one? 🤷♂️
Hey you can use a door hinge on the top bar with the wheel attached and on the bottom bar have a bar sticking out to where you want the wheel
Hell yeah dude love it
Go twin discs on the back,it rips hard,i love it, love the channel and keep it up mate 👌
You will be doing wheelies like crazy
Hard launches = slick tyres = drag strip 👍
I had one of those engines in my XLT SKS, they are very finicky engines. I ended up giving it to my buddy who makes things out of other things, much like you. I got tired of it not running right once off the trailer, literally after running perfect in the shop.
I know this is not the safest idea but you could put a brake disc on your jackshaft in addition to your rear axle disc.
Correct jetting will make a huge difference to the drive-ability. Do you have the choke hooked up correctly, use it for the first or second pull even in the warm weather. I'm sure you have had a 2 stroke weed wacker, those you have to choke until the first firing, even then you may still have to use ½ choke to start it. I owned Polaris XLT's for about 10 years, they are very temperamental in weather above 35°. You will need to install smaller main jets and adjust your needle and probably reduce the needle jets 1 or 2 sizes. I will see if I can find a picture of a carb jet recommendation.
That thing rips!🔥🔥👍
Any chance for front brakes? So you don't die. You ripping on that is my favorite video. Sickest go cart ever. Looking forward to more rc car style wheelies. Good job
nice launches
You can make your disk out of thicker steel to help with break fad but it won't help stopping power, you need diameter for that. also remove the mill scale for better grip.
Watching you build the two sets of wheelie bars, I realized that you could build one triangled brace. The offset would be enough to keep the front end on the ground. The remove and flip it over to allow for max wheelies. Of course, you would have to build a quick release system to make it perfect.
I hope this is clear enough. I have PD have trouble with wrds
Maybe try like mountain bike style disc brakes up front. Probably won't solve the braking issue, but might help as a line lock for some good burnouts.
She's a Ripper 💯👍☮
That thing is a weapon man, thanks heaps for the videos you do, really awesome builds, just sayin man, think you are under rated that's for sure! cheers from Australia
Easier way of easy adjustment would have been to make a wheelie bar with a big tire and then when you put that smaller tire on it, it would be the higher wheelie adjustment so the adjustment would simply be the same wheelie bar but with two different size tires would be your adjustment. Obviously you’d not get that much of a adjustment as you built but still would been a good test with out building two completely different wheelie bar sets
I'm continually amazed at how much excessive weight is added to your creations - this is essentially a 5-wheeler and would have been so much easier to bring about something shorter with a flat skateboard wheel.
Should build a more aggressive frame for that engine. Things sick!
Just flip the wheelie bar upside down...one works for both.
More weight means more brakes!
I say you add a wheelie bar but use a small shock to help it. Even like a mountain bicycle shock would be awesome and original.
Add an LSD and left/right brakes so you can steer while wheeleeing
Some of the older polaris's had liquid cooled calipers, the TXL is the first that comes to find
Don't have the wheelie bar all the way on the ground. If you do that the drivetires have less traction if you know what I mean. Have the wheelie bar 1-2 inches above the ground. (Edit:) Wrote this comment before you made the wheelie bar :P Seems like you made it pretty much perfect :)
That thing is AWESOME!!!!....
I love this build, great work