Indeed a teak deck is beautiful, but the installation requires a lot of experience. Any leaking seam will result in water on the steel deck and corrosion of the steel after some time. I would not reinstall the teak deck, even on new yachts there are often problems with the teak deck.
For a long time I was the owner of a steel sailing yacht. I watch this video and remember my experience. I've been through it. Emery wheel and chemicals are not a cure for a boat hull. Only sandblasting and multi-layer passivation of metal, according to the technological map, will save you from annual openings of the paintwork, removal of rust and unpleasant traces of rust on the hull, deckhouse and deck
true, I plan on sandblasting the hull, what I did so far will be covered with a layer of teak so this will act as an extra layer of protection. hope I'm right on this, I don't have unlimited budget to get the boat in a shed and sandblast everything.
Well done. I still think you have chosen such a beautiful yacht to restore. Just the sort of age where the design had to look good as well as be practical
Het meest bewonder ik je moed. Als het een projekt is, om het teveel aan vrije tijd op te lossen, heb je een exelente keuze gemaakt. Deze boot zal je ook na uitvoerige reparaties blijven verrassen.
It's going to be a beautiful ship when finished. If I was into spending time on the water instead of hanging over the railing your ship has a lot of appeal to me. Very nice.
Use a hole saw instead of cutting out squares with grinder. Use a 20mm hole saw on deck and use a 22mm for making fillers. A lot less hassle, and no grinding the plate to fit.
I tried without succes. what am I doing wrong ? do I need angular drills? are my hole saws not expensive enough? they barely scratch the surface. I'm using a handheld drill, could that be the problem?
@@BoatProjectY decent hole saws are a must. Dont run the drill full speed like most people, u will just burn it out. If hole saw is getting hot stop for a second so metal and saw can cool down. Go slow, max half speed. Use a little bit of cutting oil.
Also 50 to 60mm saws are probably as big as u can go with thick steel (5mm or thicker) its to hard on the drill and the hole saw . After that ur back to the grinder.
Mooi project. Voor mij interessant omdat ik met het zelfde probleem zit. Beetje jammer voor mij dat je nog niet het behandelen van het teak hebt gefilmd. Ik ben midden in het repareren van een dek luik. Ga vooral door. Ik volg je met belangstelling.
😁 on a lonely night I tried. no footage though, and nearly lost the mast in the water (along with me) that was no succes. but eventually they'll come off. when we get the boat out of the water
@@Rubinho1977 Thanks for your comment. I 'm definitely going to keep the masts. possibly not these ones, but masts are staying. I plan on reinforcing and upgrading to do some sailing with this boat and in worst case just to stabilise the boat on longer crossings.
No matter how much you like the teak decking, look what it's done to the steel. Are you really going to relay it and start the rust trap all over again? 😐
Your Dads idea of the file in the drill was great
Yeah he s great at finding creative solutions .
Nice work. I would not put the teak back and get the problem again. Just paint with epoxiprimer and antislip paint.
By far most of the teak wood used on this boat is of very good quality and can be perfectly reused after treatment.
and it looks so damn good!!
Indeed a teak deck is beautiful, but the installation requires a lot of experience. Any leaking seam will result in water on the steel deck and corrosion of the steel after some time.
I would not reinstall the teak deck, even on new yachts there are often problems with the teak deck.
For a long time I was the owner of a steel sailing yacht. I watch this video and remember my experience. I've been through it. Emery wheel and chemicals are not a cure for a boat hull. Only sandblasting and multi-layer passivation of metal, according to the technological map, will save you from annual openings of the paintwork, removal of rust and unpleasant traces of rust on the hull, deckhouse and deck
true, I plan on sandblasting the hull, what I did so far will be covered with a layer of teak so this will act as an extra layer of protection. hope I'm right on this, I don't have unlimited budget to get the boat in a shed and sandblast everything.
Cheers from Sweden,, 🍻😎👍
🤙
Well done. I still think you have chosen such a beautiful yacht to restore. Just the sort of age where the design had to look good as well as be practical
thank you, I could not agree more;)
Het meest bewonder ik je moed. Als het een projekt is, om het teveel aan vrije tijd op te lossen, heb je een exelente keuze gemaakt. Deze boot zal je ook na uitvoerige reparaties blijven verrassen.
dank je, soms is het gewoon beter dat je op voorhand niet weet waar je aan begint.:) still lovin' it.
@@BoatProjectY Dat is ook zo. geniet er vooral van
It's going to be a beautiful ship when finished. If I was into spending time on the water instead of hanging over the railing your ship has a lot of appeal to me. Very nice.
the sailing days are coming. one day 👍
its looking good. 😎💚💙👍👍🍺🍺🍻
thanks for the encouragement
Quite a project - Forth Rail Bridge sort of job.
😅
Use a hole saw instead of cutting out squares with grinder.
Use a 20mm hole saw on deck and use a 22mm for making fillers.
A lot less hassle, and no grinding the plate to fit.
I tried without succes. what am I doing wrong ? do I need angular drills? are my hole saws not expensive enough? they barely scratch the surface. I'm using a handheld drill, could that be the problem?
@@BoatProjectY decent hole saws are a must.
Dont run the drill full speed like most people, u will just burn it out.
If hole saw is getting hot stop for a second so metal and saw can cool down.
Go slow, max half speed. Use a little bit of cutting oil.
Also 50 to 60mm saws are probably as big as u can go with thick steel (5mm or thicker) its to hard on the drill and the hole saw . After that ur back to the grinder.
@@BrentonEllard thanks that's what I did, handheld is fine, you say? and I bought dewalt hole saws, fine? or rubbish?
@@BrentonEllard Ah that might be the problem I bought 60 and 90mm ones
After 20 years in the Navy I can tell you 2 off the best tools for a steel deck are the Jason Pistol and a Growler.
when looking online for a Jason pistol (never heard of it) I came across some nasty websites :))
still don't know
Mooi project. Voor mij interessant omdat ik met het zelfde probleem zit. Beetje jammer voor mij dat je nog niet het behandelen van het teak hebt gefilmd. Ik ben midden in het repareren van een dek luik.
Ga vooral door. Ik volg je met belangstelling.
Dank je, mijn prioriteit ligt momenteel bij het waterdicht maken van het schip. Daarna komt zeker het teak weer aan de beurt.
I think we would be better off using a multi-tool saw to cut the coulck, tested it at home and seemed more efficient to me.
tried and tested, those are the words I need to hear. ;)
Why would they have used teak when they'll use normal plywood underneath, kinda defeats the purpose of using teak that won't rott.
I agree. I’ll have to do the same though to get all the drains lined up with the deck. Hope sika will reach out and sponsor me :)
How can you work there with other boats in front and behind you everything will blow on those boats?
I give them beers...
Why not put the mast down now? You have to deal with the mast no matter what. That said, I really think your boat looks great.
😁 on a lonely night I tried. no footage though, and nearly lost the mast in the water (along with me) that was no succes. but eventually they'll come off. when we get the boat out of the water
And I think you can forget the masts, they are not useful and gave a strange look to this motor boat.
Anyway, well done with the deck
@@Rubinho1977 If you are a sailor you will know how useful the mast are. An important part of the beautyness of this boat are the masts.
@@Rubinho1977 Thanks for your comment. I 'm definitely going to keep the masts. possibly not these ones, but masts are staying. I plan on reinforcing and upgrading to do some sailing with this boat and in worst case just to stabilise the boat on longer crossings.
@@BoatProjectY i taught it s a boat for river, so except for a dinghie, masts were not very useful. But ok, for a sea boat, no pb :)
No matter how much you like the teak decking, look what it's done to the steel. Are you really going to relay it and start the rust trap all over again? 😐
we're 60 years later, I trust on the progress materials and chemicals made in all those years