Thanks for the Video. Just got a Meyers pump and was wondering on how to get it working. Found your video and was able to overhaul it. Working nice. Thanks again.
Hello Do you sell international on ebay?, im from Sweden..:) i have a F.E.Myers 4520 pump with 4525 gearbox attached and i need the leather sealing cup and the rubber sealing, also the gland you have in the movie..=)
Great video! Have you ever heard of a Trupar piston pump? I just bought one for $40 and looking to overhaul it. Where can I get the washers and other packing materials? Thank you!
Going too fast will wear the pump out very quickly, the right speed you will get 50 years or more out of the pump, too fast and you will get a year or less- the cast iron eccentric is not made for speed. Going too fast does not leave enough time for the valves to shut so water bypasses them so it is inefficient . going too fast will greatly increase the effect of any air bubbles expanding much larger than usual ,causing inefficient pumping. The leather buckets do not stand up to such fast and high pressure extremes.They call these pumps century pumps cause they last 100 years- run too fast and you will have an annual pump
Hello mate , its very detail and good. I had a question with regards to 1.25 inch diameter line, its almost 30 running feets long with connection with the main line. So how much horsepower pump shall i be needed to suck the water from main line. Currently u had piston pump of 1 hp. But it is not working with 1.25 inch dia line.
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful!! My question is, if the inside of the pump is really rusty, is that ok? Do you try to clean that somehow? Thanks!
Try break the big chunks out but be careful , some people will sandblast the insides as it removes most of the gunk. Letting it dry out for a few months causes most of the rust to fall off
@@JFS-c7g I have found it stabilises after a while, depends on how acid or salty your water is, cast iron generally only surface rusts then settles down as the rust layer pacifies
@@shedasaurus Thanks again for your help! I have another question if that's ok? I just finished refurbishing the old pump, and your video really helped!! I painted it too, looks new! I went to test it today, and it won't self prime (I thought piston pumps did self prime??) When I prime it in the water chamber with water, it'll pump, but once it sucks up air, I have to re-prime it since it won't pump on it's own again.... any thoughts? Thanks!
@@JFS-c7g If the gland is dripping water when the pump is NOT running tighten the gland. They are self priming but need water in to start the prime. Make sure there is no rust chips stuck under the lower Valve rubbers as it will empty the water out of the pump. Put a check valve at the end of the suction pipe to stop the vacuum effect
Thank you for this - great practical advice.I have a DURO K255 that I believe needs a new kit. No sense of resistance or sounds of suction when I crank the pulley by hand. My pump has a 1 and 1/4 inch nut on the wet end. Does it turn counter clockwise or clockwise to remove? Same question CCW or Cw for 3/4 inch nut on top of wet end. Both seem very tight and I do not want to apply undue force in the wrong direction. First time installing a new kit and your video give me confidence. Any other tips related to the K255 appreciated. Thanks
Hi, All the pump varieties I have worked on are right hand thread ie lefty loosey / righty tighty`. Left hand threads are generally used on applications where the motion of the mechanics will cause the thread to undo if it is right handed
hi all i have a davies series 3 piston pump the same as the pump in the video. unfortunately my pump is missing the two pulies wheels and the motor. i have purchased a new .75 HP motor. i need to get the two pulies can any one tell what the dimensions or sell me them if they have spares?
Great videos, thanks. I have a working pump that I’ll refurbish soon. One question, the oily end, on opposite side to crank, has a grease nipple. I assume this is to grease the gland, is that right? If so what type of grease is suitable?
I have not seen them having a grease nipple on the gland before, probably a modification of sorts. I would suggest a light grease but it is not really necessary as the packing has oil lube in to start and once wet the water acts as lubrication. Old school packing like hemp needed grease but was hard on the shaft causing excessive wear
Hey Shedasaurus! Friggen awesome video - this is the ONLY place on the web that shows what you do. Question for you - I put new gaskets on the body, but it's still leaking. I think it may be due to the pitting on the body. Can I put silicon on either side of the gasket and tighten it up? Need to stop the drips..
Silicone will lubricate the gasket and make it slippery, as soon as you tighten the bolt it will push the gasket out. I would suggest getting some STAG jointing paste , it will fill holes and dry in them. Be sure to mess some on your clothes so fellow stag users give you a nod in public for the next few years, it never washes out. Where is it leaking from? The head gasket?
I'm rebuilding an A.Y. McDonald pump. Any recommendations for gasket material and best practices for fabricating new valve flaps and piston seals for these old reciprocating pumps? The piston seals on mine seem to be some sort of woven packing material compressed by washers rather than rubber or leather 'buckets'.
30 wt is good, any oil made for older engines is good. Gear oil is sticky, works its way onto the wheel and belt , melts the rubber in the belt, makes a mess, makes belt slip
@@memphis786 If the suction head is high (more than 2m usually) yes as it will suck air in and sometimes cause a vacuum lock to occur in the valve nearest the gland, another reason to have the groove in the top valves to stop this. Replacing the shaft and the packing will stop this. If your pump drips from the gland when switched off it will constantly need to be re-primed as it empties the pump
There is a sump plug on about 95%of them under the crank case, if yours does not have it then you have to either suck it out with an oil vacuum or tip the pump to let it come out of the filler hole
@@pierrecarrier6229 30 wt is good, any engine oil made for older engines is good. Gear oil is sticky, works its way onto the wheel and belt , melts the rubber in the belt, makes a mess, makes belt slip
Check all the valves and leathers. There are so many reasons I could write a book on it. Systematically go through each section of the pump from inlet to outlet
Sorry for the long response. The valves seem to be the same shape. I believe the piston uses rubber instead of leather though. I do have some spare parts but not everything I need.
The rubber buckets are ok, a bit harder on the cylinder liner than the leather, they can also develop a squeal/squeal in the long run. Find me on eBay under the name 'izikazoomba'
I have some ancient thing that resembles this but stopped working...its a macewan i think.. I wish you were in nz or I could find someone. Its an incredible machine pumps huge distance up the hill and I cannot find anything similar....
Air leak on the suction line , try taking the head off and priming through there, the small slots in the top 2 valves will allow water past and allow the air out creating the suction. Assuming your pump is serviced
@@billsmith6983 if you have ruled out the above, check the plug next to the head, if it is sucking air it will not prime , if it is a red plastic one replace with brass, the plastic ones tend to crack and leak, seal with thread tape
Here is a link to find the kit I used on ebay .....www.ebay.com.au/itm/223411501282
Thanks for the Video. Just got a Meyers pump and was wondering on how to get it working. Found your video and was able to overhaul it. Working nice. Thanks again.
I own two of these pumps (collector) and I am about begin restoring them.
Thanks for sharing these two videos!
My pleasure! I have a full range of parts and pumps on ebay under Piston pumps
Hello
Do you sell international on ebay?, im from Sweden..:)
i have a F.E.Myers 4520 pump with 4525 gearbox attached
and i need the leather sealing cup and the rubber sealing, also the gland you have in the movie..=)
Yes, go to ebay Australia and look for piston pump 1 1/2" . I have everything
Marilda Ribas. well done it has helped me a lot
@@shedasaurus Whats the ebay page?
Holy s**t! You just answered every question I had. Legend! Thinks for posting this.
Great video! Have you ever heard of a Trupar piston pump? I just bought one for $40 and looking to overhaul it. Where can I get the washers and other packing materials? Thank you!
You may have to make them, nothing comes up when I search them
Is it wise to change pump gearing by altering the size of the pulley which can increase the rpm?
Kindly mention pros and cons of doing so.
Going too fast will wear the pump out very quickly, the right speed you will get 50 years or more out of the pump, too fast and you will get a year or less- the cast iron eccentric is not made for speed. Going too fast does not leave enough time for the valves to shut so water bypasses them so it is inefficient . going too fast will greatly increase the effect of any air bubbles expanding much larger than usual ,causing inefficient pumping. The leather buckets do not stand up to such fast and high pressure extremes.They call these pumps century pumps cause they last 100 years- run too fast and you will have an annual pump
Hello mate , its very detail and good.
I had a question with regards to 1.25 inch diameter line, its almost 30 running feets long with connection with the main line.
So how much horsepower pump shall i be needed to suck the water from main line. Currently u had piston pump of 1 hp. But it is not working with 1.25 inch dia line.
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful!! My question is, if the inside of the pump is really rusty, is that ok? Do you try to clean that somehow? Thanks!
Try break the big chunks out but be careful , some people will sandblast the insides as it removes most of the gunk. Letting it dry out for a few months causes most of the rust to fall off
@@shedasaurus thanks!! would having some rust leftover affect the quality of the water after it is pumped?
@@JFS-c7g I have found it stabilises after a while, depends on how acid or salty your water is, cast iron generally only surface rusts then settles down as the rust layer pacifies
@@shedasaurus Thanks again for your help! I have another question if that's ok? I just finished refurbishing the old pump, and your video really helped!! I painted it too, looks new! I went to test it today, and it won't self prime (I thought piston pumps did self prime??) When I prime it in the water chamber with water, it'll pump, but once it sucks up air, I have to re-prime it since it won't pump on it's own again.... any thoughts? Thanks!
@@JFS-c7g If the gland is dripping water when the pump is NOT running tighten the gland. They are self priming but need water in to start the prime. Make sure there is no rust chips stuck under the lower Valve rubbers as it will empty the water out of the pump. Put a check valve at the end of the suction pipe to stop the vacuum effect
Do you have any information on the crank end? Specifically mine needs rebushing
See my newer videos
Thank you for this - great practical advice.I have a DURO K255 that I believe needs a new kit. No sense of resistance or sounds of suction when I crank the pulley by hand. My pump has a 1 and 1/4 inch nut on the wet end. Does it turn counter clockwise or clockwise to remove? Same question CCW or Cw for 3/4 inch nut on top of wet end. Both seem very tight and I do not want to apply undue force in the wrong direction. First time installing a new kit and your video give me confidence. Any other tips related to the K255 appreciated.
Thanks
Hi, All the pump varieties I have worked on are right hand thread ie lefty loosey / righty tighty`. Left hand threads are generally used on applications where the motion of the mechanics will cause the thread to undo if it is right handed
Thanku for this superb video
My pump is pumping OK
but, there is lots of hammering on inlet pipe which shakes quite a lot. Any suggestions?
Jacking is common, check my videos on pipes shaking on this channel
hi all i have a davies series 3 piston pump the same as the pump in the video. unfortunately my pump is missing the two pulies wheels and the motor. i have purchased a new .75 HP motor. i need to get the two pulies can any one tell what the dimensions or sell me them if they have spares?
Hi , look up my ebay Australia under "IZIKAZOOMBA" and contact me via there, I will need the shaft size as there are about 15 different sizes
Great videos, thanks. I have a working pump that I’ll refurbish soon. One question, the oily end, on opposite side to crank, has a grease nipple. I assume this is to grease the gland, is that right? If so what type of grease is suitable?
I have not seen them having a grease nipple on the gland before, probably a modification of sorts. I would suggest a light grease but it is not really necessary as the packing has oil lube in to start and once wet the water acts as lubrication. Old school packing like hemp needed grease but was hard on the shaft causing excessive wear
Big help. Thanks.
i got 3 pumps..using a 365 duro and have a 255 duro and sears homart 390 spares all ready to go
Hey Shedasaurus! Friggen awesome video - this is the ONLY place on the web that shows what you do. Question for you - I put new gaskets on the body, but it's still leaking. I think it may be due to the pitting on the body. Can I put silicon on either side of the gasket and tighten it up? Need to stop the drips..
Silicone will lubricate the gasket and make it slippery, as soon as you tighten the bolt it will push the gasket out. I would suggest getting some STAG jointing paste , it will fill holes and dry in them. Be sure to mess some on your clothes so fellow stag users give you a nod in public for the next few years, it never washes out. Where is it leaking from? The head gasket?
I'm rebuilding an A.Y. McDonald pump. Any recommendations for gasket material and best practices for fabricating new valve flaps and piston seals for these old reciprocating pumps? The piston seals on mine seem to be some sort of woven packing material compressed by washers rather than rubber or leather 'buckets'.
Hi. I am not familiar with your pump, sorry can't help
i got a sears piston pump works great
do you lubricate with gear oil 85 weight or motor oil like 30 weight?
30 wt is good, any oil made for older engines is good. Gear oil is sticky, works its way onto the wheel and belt , melts the rubber in the belt, makes a mess, makes belt slip
Can you please explain why the gland nut should drip water ?
The water lubricates and cools the packing, When packing is new it has an oil impregnated in it but it eventually washes out
shedasaurus thanks for your response, also if this gland seal is worn would it affect suction, kindly comment.
@@memphis786 If the suction head is high (more than 2m usually) yes as it will suck air in and sometimes cause a vacuum lock to occur in the valve nearest the gland, another reason to have the groove in the top valves to stop this. Replacing the shaft and the packing will stop this. If your pump drips from the gland when switched off it will constantly need to be re-primed as it empties the pump
Where do you get the parts, the consumables?
Ebay Australia
More extensive overhauls to follow
Hi, so how do you change the oil.thanks
There is a sump plug on about 95%of them under the crank case, if yours does not have it then you have to either suck it out with an oil vacuum or tip the pump to let it come out of the filler hole
shedasaurus oh yes I found the plug ,but I forgot to ask what kind of oil or gear oil is used for refills? Thanks
@@pierrecarrier6229 30 wt is good, any engine oil made for older engines is good. Gear oil is sticky, works its way onto the wheel and belt , melts the rubber in the belt, makes a mess, makes belt slip
Everest 1 cylinder pamp mechanism service
May I know the reason for pressure drop in piston pump motor.
Check all the valves and leathers. There are so many reasons I could write a book on it. Systematically go through each section of the pump from inlet to outlet
Where do you get parts for these? i'm having a very hard time finding anything on ebay. i've got an old Lancaster
Are they the same shape ?
Sorry for the long response. The valves seem to be the same shape. I believe the piston uses rubber instead of leather though. I do have some spare parts but not everything I need.
The rubber buckets are ok, a bit harder on the cylinder liner than the leather, they can also develop a squeal/squeal in the long run. Find me on eBay under the name 'izikazoomba'
I have a Penn ,where would I find parts? Great video quick and to the point
Well said
I have some ancient thing that resembles this but stopped working...its a macewan i think.. I wish you were in nz or I could find someone. Its an incredible machine pumps huge distance up the hill and I cannot find anything similar....
I have a McEwen pump, it has been recently overhauled by Mcquin pumps in Wahangarei. Great pumps try them for info.
Track Industries in ChCh have parts for these old Macewan pumps.
Hi what is the size of the buckets?
1 1/2" or 38mm but there are 1 3/4" and 1 1/4" models too
Dumb question I can't get mine to pump water
Air leak on the suction line , try taking the head off and priming through there, the small slots in the top 2 valves will allow water past and allow the air out creating the suction. Assuming your pump is serviced
@@shedasaurus thanks yes is serviced
@@billsmith6983 if you have ruled out the above, check the plug next to the head, if it is sucking air it will not prime , if it is a red plastic one replace with brass, the plastic ones tend to crack and leak, seal with thread tape
Shout of thanks It works
Good
Bountiful
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