For your honey supper, you should use 10 frames until fully drawn. Then, you can go down to 9 frames after that so they can be drawn out further to help in honey extraction.
Good idea, thanks for the tip. I've kept 10 in my supers whilst the oil seed rape is on (I'm in the UK) because it crystallises so quickly and because it's so dense it's hard to extract. But for the rest of the year that's a great idea.
I particularly admire the admission of an error and applied that as a change to your beekeeping. It is exactly how I learned and continue to learn. If you don't learn you'll always be a first year beekeeper. I'm really enjoying your videos and some stuff I know and other stuff I need to apply. I've had great success with British National hives using polystrene as I believe the hive doesn't need to work so hard to maintain a temperature, they subsequently have energy for other stuff, i.e. brood and honey production. I saw a book by Tim Rowe on the Rose hive method and it was an awakening for me. Tim is an Englishman in Ireland. He uses hive management techniques and NO queen excluder. I'm 5' 8" hugely tall(aye right!) and I end up with boxes above my head. Please keep the videos coming, I love them.
Thank you for this comment! I will look into Tim Rowe and the Rose hive method. I have heard about those polystyrene hives! I wondered if they are worth the buy or not especially bc I’ve seen some made in the 5 frame nuc size. And more videos coming! Keep on keeping my friend!
Live in south east MI, getting swarms is getting harder and harder.. caught one about 2 weeks ago and seems to bee struggling.. going to give them some sugar water today and see how that goes. I’m a firm believer in not helping them with feedings. 14:45 bees seem to be disappearing year after year.. live in the country, and the farmers are constantly spraying.
Feeding a small hive is Okay; it kick starts them into making more brood ; especially in a heavy spray farm area . the stronger a hive is the easier it is for them to fight disease Small /weak hives are less likely to survive dearth and yellow jacket; small hive beetles etc
Bees become reluctant to draw wax frames after the summer solstice. the rules change within a week of that. Thats when you are likely to find they would rather extend existing comb than draw out new comb.
I've lost alot of my hives that swarmed and bees are just getting back going robbing here in Darlington S.C. has been my problem on weak hives. Got alot of pollen bound brood frames in freezer for later splits if I can get cells from other small nucs I don't graft yet
I tried checker boarding and they would just draw out the ones that were already drawn and leave the ones that were not. this year I am coating my empty frames with wax from capping's with a paint roller. Hopefully I get better results just putting one drawn frame in the center and the rest undrawn comb.
Holy🐄90°?¿? That's Awesome Finally summer has arrived😁Did u ever think that when u first started bee keeping that one day ud be doing a Twenty Minute video dropping All this mad knowledge on us???☺️So Happy u found bee keeping and So Proud of u for coming as Far as u have! And hey who knows where ull be in a few Months let alone years???👏😁👑🐝👏Super cool little tricks to get them to draw out faster I like the adding an empty box to the middle, I can just see the bees rolling their eyes at you and being like, "Okay ladies and gentlemen, Emily is at it again so let's get Moving on this, all hands on deck!"😂🐝😂And as always I just Love how giving u are about sharing ur knowledge thats uve attained throughout ur time as a Bee keeper, not everyone would be as generous as my Favorite Keeper so Good for U😊Sorry I've been absent but ur videos Always brighten my day just know that, I'll be at work and see ur new video notification and smile and know I have something to look forward to so Thank U my friend u really are the Bees Knees👏🐝👏Stay Cool and ill see U in the next one, Emily😊 #emilyisthebeesknees #beefitbeekeeping #beefitbeeyard #beefithoney #beefit #beekkind #Fantastically👏
I think the extra sugar helps get their wax glands stimulated, I’ve noticed the same thing in my area. It does take a lot of energy for them to make wax so it makes sense! Where are you located?
What's with the smooth Jazz? I've got one hive with a new package in it and I found some issues with the checkerboarding. While they did start to draw out the foundation they also over drew the sections of the existing frames that contained honey into the empty space even if the frames were mostly brood. What I ended up doing was just using my hive tool to remove the over drawn comb, which made a bit of the mess with the honey.
Really appreciate the information. What to do with frames in the brood box that pull out comb too far/thickly. Should one mess with that or just leave it?
Good tip on not checkerboarding in honey supers. I have definitely made that mistake in the past and I have never heard anyone talking about it. I wonder if you can still do it if you are running 9 frames instead of 10.
Hey I'm Mitch and I live in the Virgin Islands. We are at bout 80 to 05 degrees and i don't have a winter. I was told to watch importing bees we don't have Varroa mites. We do have dirth.
Love your videos! Great info! I use a lot of those techniques myself. When will you start checking/treating for mites and can you make a video? I have no problem with making hives and growing them but making them survive thru winter is another issue lol
I tried checker boarding and they would just draw out the ones that were already drawn and leave the ones that were not. This year I am coating my empty frames with wax from capping's with a paint roller. Hopefully I get better results just putting one drawn frame in the center and the rest undrawn comb.
The word you’re looking for is VISCOSITY, not velocity. Viscosity is a measure of resistance to deformation at a certain rate, so basically the ‘thickness’ of the nectar.
I appreciate the correction! 🙂 but I really do mean to use the word velocity. If feeding with a high viscosity, meaning putting more sugar in a sugar water mixture, the bees will be more inclined to store it rather than draw comb. But if feeding at a high velocity, meaning not just putting on a quart sized jar for them to draw comb (in that situation, sugar water is not coming in at a rate high enough to stimulate them to draw wax, they will instead consume it as food) but instead putting on a gallon bucket or a 1.5gal frame feeder of 1:1 will bring sugar water in at a velocity high enough to keep their wax glands turned on. Drawing comb takes a lot of energy so there is a balance between the sugar content and rate in which is it coming into the hive in order to get the result you are looking for.
I threw a 3rd deep on. They've only got about 12 of the current 20 drawn. Last year I was honey bound on 10 and I don't want to worry about swarming away this year, even if it doesn't stress them to work out fast. I also smeared old melted wax all over the new 10, I'll probably get wonky comb. It was a mixture of burnt honey and melted wax. I have no idea what they're going to do with it.
Yep they will fizzle it down. I was doing 50 lbs a week last year when I made all of those splits. Could have taken down more but the bees were eating better than I was 🤣
You explained that all really well. The bees like two bee spaces in the brood and one in the honey supper is what you meant, right. I used to make youtube beekeeping videos and it is quite hard to make a video, look after the bees and then take care of all the camera stuff too.
Okay... i may have missed a little bit of this video. Most everything you said is tried and true. The only thing i DO NOT agree with, is the sugar syrup. Sugar syrup is not honey. If one had no options but to feed, or the bees die... well something is wrong, make sure to pH adjust the water using two 1,000mg (2g) vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and around 2g (about 1/4tsp) of citric acid. Honey is around 3.7ph, anything above that breeds bad shit. Botulisms cant even begind to grow from spores below 3.75. While sugar water, being greater that 5pH is a breeding ground for disease and feeds the negative bacteria and fungi. That, and the fact that, although sugar water can trigger the need for more cells, it has NONE of the natural lipids, organic polymers etc, fhst is needed for building out comb. You cant make anything without materials. And the materials for wax are all plant latex/sap/nectar derived compounds. You'd do better in ramaging a letex or resinous rich weed (such as wild lettuce) or making some scratches on trees where the bees can gather the sap. That being said... you get at least an A ir A+ not sure if I'm including S- fhru S+ in mg score or sticking to grade school. Theres IS one method that I'm curious of, that I have yet to see it tried.basically a Japanese Pile Hive with frames. Make boxes out of 2×10s nut drill a couple holes in the top and bottom of eache frsme for pass-thru, put in foundationless frames (mark each one with an arrow pointing to the nearest outside wall of fhe box), solid insulated cover (where you have your hives is ideal. Shade in summer, sun in winter), solid bottom board with small holed in the corners for bees to chase hive beetles out of. Just keep adding boxes to the bottom periodically, let them build them out, then add more boxes and remove a couple of the top boxes. Whenever the first day below about 70F is probably the last day for boxes and harvesting. Unless youre prone to Tennessee winters. If theres no other means of ventilation, bees naturally draw downward to the entrance where they can place the comb in the most climate controlled spot, nearest the entrance. So it may be more simple to keep adding boxes to the bottom, having them fill them and move the brood down, then backfilling up top with nectar. Seems simple enough. And works around the bees nature, while reducing stress. Stress is detrimental to the body and immune system.
I feel bad for your bees. Bees are amazing creatures that spend EVERY waking moment working to provide for their colony. You are manipulating them to work harder for YOUR interests. Seems like you are working your bees to death.
For your honey supper, you should use 10 frames until fully drawn. Then, you can go down to 9 frames after that so they can be drawn out further to help in honey extraction.
Good idea, thanks for the tip. I've kept 10 in my supers whilst the oil seed rape is on (I'm in the UK) because it crystallises so quickly and because it's so dense it's hard to extract. But for the rest of the year that's a great idea.
I particularly admire the admission of an error and applied that as a change to your beekeeping. It is exactly how I learned and continue to learn. If you don't learn you'll always be a first year beekeeper. I'm really enjoying your videos and some stuff I know and other stuff I need to apply. I've had great success with British National hives using polystrene as I believe the hive doesn't need to work so hard to maintain a temperature, they subsequently have energy for other stuff, i.e. brood and honey production. I saw a book by Tim Rowe on the Rose hive method and it was an awakening for me. Tim is an Englishman in Ireland. He uses hive management techniques and NO queen excluder. I'm 5' 8" hugely tall(aye right!) and I end up with boxes above my head. Please keep the videos coming, I love them.
Thank you for this comment! I will look into Tim Rowe and the Rose hive method. I have heard about those polystyrene hives! I wondered if they are worth the buy or not especially bc I’ve seen some made in the 5 frame nuc size. And more videos coming! Keep on keeping my friend!
Great video!
Live in south east MI, getting swarms is getting harder and harder.. caught one about 2 weeks ago and seems to bee struggling.. going to give them some sugar water today and see how that goes. I’m a firm believer in not helping them with feedings. 14:45
bees seem to be disappearing year after year.. live in the country, and the farmers are constantly spraying.
Feeding a small hive is Okay; it kick starts them into making more brood ; especially in a heavy spray farm area . the stronger a hive is the easier it is for them to fight disease
Small /weak hives are less likely to survive dearth and yellow jacket; small hive beetles etc
Thank you for the valuable information. I'm new in this field having 5 boxes.
Just came across your channel and love your straight to the point approach. Subbed and looking forward to learning. Thank you
AHHH!!!! Welcome to the fam! I am so thankful to have you here 🥰
Very informative. Thank you. ❤
Bees become reluctant to draw wax frames after the summer solstice. the rules change within a week of that. Thats when you are likely to find they would rather extend existing comb than draw out new comb.
I watch your video because you have a very good way of explaining WHY you do what you do, and you do that so well. Hope that make sense :) LOL
Thank you for all the great info.
Thank YOU! For watching!!
You are knowledgeable in what you are tipping us on. Keep up the videos. Thanks
I've lost alot of my hives that swarmed and bees are just getting back going robbing here in Darlington S.C. has been my problem on weak hives. Got alot of pollen bound brood frames in freezer for later splits if I can get cells from other small nucs I don't graft yet
GREAT INformation!!!! Thank You Very Much!!!!
New bee keeper, love your videos
Didn't know that the supers shouldn't be checkered boarded. Thanks!
I tried checker boarding and they would just draw out the ones that were already drawn and leave the ones that were not. this year I am coating my empty frames with wax from capping's with a paint roller. Hopefully I get better results just putting one drawn frame in the center and the rest undrawn comb.
Holy🐄90°?¿? That's Awesome Finally summer has arrived😁Did u ever think that when u first started bee keeping that one day ud be doing a Twenty Minute video dropping All this mad knowledge on us???☺️So Happy u found bee keeping and So Proud of u for coming as Far as u have! And hey who knows where ull be in a few Months let alone years???👏😁👑🐝👏Super cool little tricks to get them to draw out faster I like the adding an empty box to the middle, I can just see the bees rolling their eyes at you and being like, "Okay ladies and gentlemen, Emily is at it again so let's get Moving on this, all hands on deck!"😂🐝😂And as always I just Love how giving u are about sharing ur knowledge thats uve attained throughout ur time as a Bee keeper, not everyone would be as generous as my Favorite Keeper so Good for U😊Sorry I've been absent but ur videos Always brighten my day just know that, I'll be at work and see ur new video notification and smile and know I have something to look forward to so Thank U my friend u really are the Bees Knees👏🐝👏Stay Cool and ill see U in the next one, Emily😊 #emilyisthebeesknees #beefitbeekeeping #beefitbeeyard #beefithoney #beefit #beekkind #Fantastically👏
I've found the best sugar to water feed ratios for drawing comb in my area are 1 to 1.2 or 1 to 1.3
I think the extra sugar helps get their wax glands stimulated, I’ve noticed the same thing in my area. It does take a lot of energy for them to make wax so it makes sense! Where are you located?
Have great day my wonderful friend ❤️
What's with the smooth Jazz? I've got one hive with a new package in it and I found some issues with the checkerboarding. While they did start to draw out the foundation they also over drew the sections of the existing frames that contained honey into the empty space even if the frames were mostly brood. What I ended up doing was just using my hive tool to remove the over drawn comb, which made a bit of the mess with the honey.
Lotsa good info, thanks
Thanks for sharing interesting content 💜👍
Really appreciate the information. What to do with frames in the brood box that pull out comb too far/thickly. Should one mess with that or just leave it?
Hey Josh! Check out the video dropping tomorrow! I answer this exact question for ya 🙂
Very informative.thanks
Good tip on not checkerboarding in honey supers. I have definitely made that mistake in the past and I have never heard anyone talking about it. I wonder if you can still do it if you are running 9 frames instead of 10.
Hey I'm Mitch and I live in the Virgin Islands. We are at bout 80 to 05 degrees and i don't have a winter. I was told to watch importing bees we don't have Varroa mites. We do have dirth.
Great video, I use a lot of you tips and they work great.
Love your videos! Great info! I use a lot of those techniques myself. When will you start checking/treating for mites and can you make a video? I have no problem with making hives and growing them but making them survive thru winter is another issue lol
Lots of good advice!
Thank you ☺️
Hi from Texas .
Thanks! Great tips.
Doesn't using black gloves elicit an attack response from the bees?
I tried checker boarding and they would just draw out the ones that were already drawn and leave the ones that were not. This year I am coating my empty frames with wax from capping's with a paint roller. Hopefully I get better results just putting one drawn frame in the center and the rest undrawn comb.
What kind of gloves are you wearing? Just latex? Do you still get stung through them?
The word you’re looking for is VISCOSITY, not velocity. Viscosity is a measure of resistance to deformation at a certain rate, so basically the ‘thickness’ of the nectar.
I appreciate the correction! 🙂 but I really do mean to use the word velocity. If feeding with a high viscosity, meaning putting more sugar in a sugar water mixture, the bees will be more inclined to store it rather than draw comb. But if feeding at a high velocity, meaning not just putting on a quart sized jar for them to draw comb (in that situation, sugar water is not coming in at a rate high enough to stimulate them to draw wax, they will instead consume it as food) but instead putting on a gallon bucket or a 1.5gal frame feeder of 1:1 will bring sugar water in at a velocity high enough to keep their wax glands turned on. Drawing comb takes a lot of energy so there is a balance between the sugar content and rate in which is it coming into the hive in order to get the result you are looking for.
@@beefitbeekeeping interesting, I’ve not heard this before, but it makes sense. I stand corrected. Thank you for your response.
I threw a 3rd deep on. They've only got about 12 of the current 20 drawn. Last year I was honey bound on 10 and I don't want to worry about swarming away this year, even if it doesn't stress them to work out fast. I also smeared old melted wax all over the new 10, I'll probably get wonky comb. It was a mixture of burnt honey and melted wax. I have no idea what they're going to do with it.
Yeah I like playing that game too :)
You need to wax pre waxed frames!!!! I used a foam brush and melted wax. I lost a lot of frames that I could actually use. But I harvest the wax.
You are absolutely correct!! This is something we are doing with every frame this year. HUGE difference
Great info thank you❤
Thank you
I love you videos. But?😅 I wouldn't leave an empty super below a full super
Remember..always keep them looking up❤
My 9 hives are eating 25 pounds of sugar a week at 1 to 1
Yep they will fizzle it down. I was doing 50 lbs a week last year when I made all of those splits. Could have taken down more but the bees were eating better than I was 🤣
@@beefitbeekeeping I understand completely
who lives in that gray house behind you in the beginning??? do they like the bees???
👍🙋♂️❤️
I needed. Plashtick foundation sheet but I am from india Kashmir do you help me and I love bees
Love it
You explained that all really well. The bees like two bee spaces in the brood and one in the honey supper is what you meant, right. I used to make youtube beekeeping videos and it is quite hard to make a video, look after the bees and then take care of all the camera stuff too.
❤
Evidently you haven't read mine on buying queen from you guys
Shoot me an email 🙂 emilypedzinski@gmail.com
Okay... i may have missed a little bit of this video. Most everything you said is tried and true. The only thing i DO NOT agree with, is the sugar syrup. Sugar syrup is not honey. If one had no options but to feed, or the bees die... well something is wrong, make sure to pH adjust the water using two 1,000mg (2g) vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and around 2g (about 1/4tsp) of citric acid. Honey is around 3.7ph, anything above that breeds bad shit. Botulisms cant even begind to grow from spores below 3.75. While sugar water, being greater that 5pH is a breeding ground for disease and feeds the negative bacteria and fungi.
That, and the fact that, although sugar water can trigger the need for more cells, it has NONE of the natural lipids, organic polymers etc, fhst is needed for building out comb.
You cant make anything without materials. And the materials for wax are all plant latex/sap/nectar derived compounds. You'd do better in ramaging a letex or resinous rich weed (such as wild lettuce) or making some scratches on trees where the bees can gather the sap.
That being said... you get at least an A ir A+ not sure if I'm including S- fhru S+ in mg score or sticking to grade school.
Theres IS one method that I'm curious of, that I have yet to see it tried.basically a Japanese Pile Hive with frames. Make boxes out of 2×10s nut drill a couple holes in the top and bottom of eache frsme for pass-thru, put in foundationless frames (mark each one with an arrow pointing to the nearest outside wall of fhe box), solid insulated cover (where you have your hives is ideal. Shade in summer, sun in winter), solid bottom board with small holed in the corners for bees to chase hive beetles out of. Just keep adding boxes to the bottom periodically, let them build them out, then add more boxes and remove a couple of the top boxes. Whenever the first day below about 70F is probably the last day for boxes and harvesting. Unless youre prone to Tennessee winters.
If theres no other means of ventilation, bees naturally draw downward to the entrance where they can place the comb in the most climate controlled spot, nearest the entrance. So it may be more simple to keep adding boxes to the bottom, having them fill them and move the brood down, then backfilling up top with nectar. Seems simple enough. And works around the bees nature, while reducing stress. Stress is detrimental to the body and immune system.
I feel bad for your bees. Bees are amazing creatures that spend EVERY waking moment working to provide for their colony. You are manipulating them to work harder for YOUR interests. Seems like you are working your bees to death.
Stfu. Freaking bots are ruining YT
Hey Emily, you can come and visit me in Wpg. Mb. Canada and give me some bee tips. I cud use your knowledge!