Improving the Pose ability of a BJD sculpting in Blender
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Hey there, Welcome to my channel :) I make ball-jointed doll and craft related content. Today's video is A sculpting video where I work on my new Slim MSD body in Blender.
If you need to reach me directly,or want more dolly content, shoot me a message over on Instagram :) teenytinkers
Teeny Tinkers Dolls
Hollow
Sodapop
Arya (tiny)
Bowie(tiny)
Clover (tiny)
Website: www.teenytinkers.com
I would love to see more videos of you digitally sculpting BJD's. It's something I want to try eventually, so watching your videos helps to educate me about Blender
I've been using Blender for over a year now, and I think maybe I can give you some tips that will hopefully help make things easier. Side note, I've been oddly fascinated with dolls recently, specifically Hina and BJDs, so this video was perfect for me, someone who has an original character that would be PERFECT as a BJD and one I want to make as one some day. Anyway, I'll number my tips to keep things organized.
1. Not 100% sure, but your recording software might have crashed due to Blender using most of your computer. I noticed you have an insane amount of geometry, and while that's sort of necessary for something like this, it will slow down things a lot, and sometimes cause crashes. I'd suggest hiding meshes you don't need while you work. (clicking the eyeball icon on the mesh you want to hide will remove it from the scene, but clicking it again will bring it back. This just helps the viewport go a bit faster and smoother)
2. You don't need to do two subdivision surface modifiers of 1, you can just increase the number of subdivisions in a single modifier. The Viewport option is what you'll want to use, so don't worry about the Render option. This also adds a ton of geometry, so be sparing with it. 2-3 usually does the job.
3. There are some other ways to cut stuff, but I think using Booleans might still be the best for your needs. You could select geometry in the Edit tab, but seeing as how much geometry you have, I wouldn't recommend that. For flat cuts, you could try using a tool in Sculpting (I think Box Trim?). You'd have to scroll all the way down, and it's only really good for removing a large chunk of square geometry, so again, probably wouldn't recommend, but it is an option.
4. A different way to move and scale objects is to use the shortcut keys. It's a lot faster in my opinion, and helps if you don't want the axis widget in the way of what you're moving. The key for moving or grabbing an object is G, scaling is S, and rotation is R. You can then use X, Y, or Z to lock it to that axis, Shift + X/Y/Z to lock it to everything except that axis, or double tap X/Y/Z to lock it to the global axis for that object (which is only really useful in some cases, but still helpful to know).
5. To help line things up better, use the Viewport Preset widget. It's that axis thing in the top right of your viewport with the XYZ grid. You'll notice it move around as you move the camera, and that shows you which axis is where. By clicking any of the 6 circles on it, you'll jump to a view of that axis. For example, Z will bring you to a top-down view, in this case Y will bring you to a front view, and X will bring you to a side view. You can get out of this by simply moving the camera like usual. This view also let's you zoom in much further without it limiting you to only getting so close. Again though, perfect for lining things up, like your Booleans.
6. This one is a bit more specific, but at 13:49, I noticed the part you had was rotating around a strange spot disconnected from the piece itself. This is because the origin (that little orange dot) is set really far away for whatever reason. To reset this (if you want to of course) would be to select the part, right click, Set Origin, Origin to Geometry. This basically centers the origin on the piece and rotates it around the middle of where that piece is.
6B. Alternatively, if you want a piece to rotate around a specific spot, you can Shift + Right Click to move the 3D Cursor (the red and white checkered ring thing) to wherever you want the pivot point to be, then instead of selecting Origin to Geometry, you'd select Origin to 3D Cursor. This could be helpful for setting pivot points of specific parts to where they'd actually pivot on the doll, giving a better representation of the final pieces' movement capabilities, since it'll let you see any clipping issues that you can then deal with however you want.
7. Resetting your 3D Cursor will also change where new meshes generate. (For example adding in a new cube) Just keep that in mind if you want your new meshes generating in a specific area (like next to something you're working on).
8. This is a small one. Instead of Ctrl/Cmd C+V to copy and paste, you can use Shift + D. Not really important, but I thought I'd just mention it.
I hope at least one of these tips helps out. I don't really know much about BJDs, but I do know quite a bit about Blender, so hopefully this helps allow you to create things faster.
OH MY GOSH. THIS IS LITERALLY SO HELPFUL. THANK YOU
I was looking forward to you posting this video since it was announced! I really appreciate you sharing your process, it's often hard to find such things, especially in a community that is so niche. I also have been working on a BJD in Blender, though mine is currently a bit more messy than yours. I had a hard time specifically finding how people worked with joints, but did find some people making small mention of it occasionally. I have made a complete doll to print at this point, and it would be great to chat about techniques and such if you have time or are interested! It seems we are about the same fluency in Blender right now. I'm also trying to learn other non-doll related techniques in 3D modeling, which may prove useful sculpting a doll. You definitely have more experience than me after the sculpting step, but it might be nice to have someone in a somewhat similar place to talk to!
Happy to chat any time!
Oh my gosh this is a great change of leg geometry is awesome I've been waiting for this change to happen how awesome can't wait to see her 💗💪🏻
I love watching the process! I’ve been playing around with Nomad sculpt, so this is very inspiring to watch. You’re doing an amazing job!
Thank you!
@@TeenyTinkers 🥰💞
Great video! thank you for sharing some of your techniques with creating ball joint dolls.
Happy to share :)
Thank you so much for making videos like this! I've been trying to find any information on sculpting 3d models for 3d printing bjds, and it feels like there's no information about the process anywhere.
Glad it was helpful!
Please make more videos like this, I love hearing about the process!
I spent 20 years getting good at drawing and character design. I want to make a printable BJD so badly. I'm preparing a Kickstarter for some anthro horsie dolls.
First thing someone told me on Reddit was "Get good at 3D modeling." Excuse me, no. I'm gonna design the hell out of something because that's what I know how to do.
Oh fun! Im sure theyre super cute!
Yes please. I would love learn how you do your digital sculpting. I have a resin printer and would like to sculpt a simple head and face. Starting basics.
oh, this is so cool. thanks for sharing. I just got a 3d resin printer and want to learn how to use this program. can't wait to see how your new doll turned out.
Have fun! and Thank you!
Wow! Great work! Thank you for this video! It's very helpful!
You're very welcome!
I am very interested in this content and look forward to seeing the mods you made in 3d. Thank you.
Do joints have to be a perfect sphere/half a sphere? Such as the hip and knee peanuts? Or just a decent roundness? I'm worried my joints won't work if they're slightly oblong to accommodate the integrity of the sculpt or a tad misshapen
they should still work! The squashed spheres are common! Even the ones in this body are squahed.
Hello.
I was wondering if you have made a video on how to prep your doll files for 3d printing? Or if youd be willing to do a tutorial on this subject?
I'm working on sculpting my doll in Blender (just gots to work on the face/head and learn how to do the ball joints and hallow her out) and cant wait to print her out.
like, the checks and stuff? Or using the slicing software?
Checking if the doll is watertight, saving/exporting the file in the correct way and how to go about slicing it for the actual printing process.
Does the caster only take resin dolls or will they accept clay dolls, do you know?
They take clay with primer!
I'm working on a model, trying to make ball joints. But when I use boolean, it will cut the difference, but it doesn't make a new surface out of the chuck taken out. It takes out the difference, but it just reveals the hollowness of the model I'm trying to cut. Any suggestions?
are you trying to add clay to the cuts? Im not sure I understand whats happening, you can shoot me a video on instagram ill look!
@@TeenyTinkers no i meant all on blender. But i figured it out more or les. The model i was using was just screwed up. Exporting it as an stl did the trick
Nunca visto una muñeca de esa muñeca si te muñecas de frutilla 🍓
Thanks so much
Hello. What size did you make your dolls in Blender?
40 cm
Thank you for replying!!
❤❤❤❤❤
Why you never tell us what program you use to make the files
I do. This is blender. I also use Nomad sculpt.
the name of the program is in the title!.
I'm not into the Inverted Dorito Shape but, nice.
fair enough! I have a midsize body as well, this is my slim body.