Single Bevel Sharpening and Review - VPA Omega
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2023
- In this video I give a review / overview of the VPA Omega broadheads. This is a single bevel broadhead with a tanto tip weighing 200 grains and machined from S7 tool steel, heat treated to 56-57 Rockwell C hardness. The broadhead has two main distinguishing factors from other single bevel heads. It beveled edge is much larger than normal, making it easier in theory to sharpen on a flat plat or stone without the need for jigs. Also, on the backside of the bevel it has extra material left near the tip to add additional strength. In my testing I looked at flight characteristics and sharpening. I was able to get the head fairly sharp by hand, and then I was able to get it scary sharp with a worksharp precision adjust. The tip was not able to get as sharp as the rest of the beveled edge.
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Dude! Thank you! I got VPA Omega 125 grain and did it on my work sharp. Mine sat right at 24 degrees for some reason. But it got the broadhead super sharp. My sharpening struggles are finally over. Thanks again!!
Great review! Super thorough.
Never seen a number lower than 100 on Lusk Archery Adventures.
You sold me on the work sharp set up.
Very cool video dude, thank you.
Yep, I don't think I've ever had a head show under 100 out of the box. Some in the 150-200 range which is really good for a production finish. I am liking the worksharp a lot.
LOVE my worksharp!!!
Great review and Great job sharpening it.
Thanks Jason!
Bless you dude, I know how much work sharpening hard heads can be haha. You did great for free hand.
Awesome, good luck this fall.
Thanks Sean, you as well!
Thanks for the video
For the free hand sharpening it definitely helps to have a short piece of arrow shaft to put the broadhead into. I happened to have an old broken one, cut it down just enough to hold onto and little bit of duct tape around the end for extra grip comfort. The work sharp setup does look very appealing also. I appreciate your insights into the sharpening process in general though.
Thanks for the tip
I gave up on vpa heads because the were so hard to sharpen. Hell you must have worked up a sweat and had to change tee shirts! 😂
I have a banish 30 and love it.
LOL. I have two Benchmade knives, M4 and S90V, both at 62-64 Rockwell. No way VPA heads are tougher to sharpen than my daily carry pocket knife. I've had this thing for almost seven years now and I don't regret it. Difficulty to sharpen is a problem I can solve at home to avoid a bigger problem in the woods.
In hindsight I'd started with 600 grit when I should have started lower to save time. When I broke the worksharp out I probably only spent 10-15 minutes or so, with most of that work being on the 320 grit.
@@DIYSportsman I recently splurged on a 325 diamond plate and I'm mad I waited this long. Profiling my knives is so much easier now.
The reason why the VPA head takes so long to sharpen is because of the surface area. The pressure is lower, so the same grit doesn't bite as deep into the steel. If you compare it directly to a similar head with less exposed edge, you'll sharpen way faster.
I would like for the VPA to be slightly thinner, a slightly steeper angle, and a higher hardness. I haven't beat up and repaired my Iron Will heads yet, but I think the angle Bill chose is right on the money. I think the regular VPA single bevel might be a better performer if you grind the bevels yourself and give it a tanto style tip.
Lot of work for that. It should retain a decent edge though right?
Yes, once you get a good edge on some of these high hardness steels they'll retain it well, especially in target foam, and it won't take nearly as much work to touch it up. If you shoot them into gravel, sandy soils etc that can cause a lot more wear. In hindsight if I'd have started on a coarser grit I could have saved a lot of time. I created that worksharp edge in maybe 10 minutes.
@@DIYSportsman Also not having to jump from 600 to 1200 id imagine. Cant wait for october. Hope to see you post some ground hunting vids!
@@joehorton01Grit jumps really don't matter that much unless you want a mirror polish. Sharp doesn't require a mirror finish, and a mirror finish can be dull. It removes about the same amount of material per pass, unless you go 300 or so compared to 3000. 600 to 1200 is just fine. It's not unusual to go from a quality 800-1000 grit to a 3-4k. Snobs will cry foul, but it will be faster to skip more grits than to gradually move up at every step.
I'm quite convinced that he's taking way longer to sharpen that broadhead than I would take, but I have been sharpening knives by hand for YEARS. But once you grind it down to a sharp edge then future touch-ups don't take very long. I'd rather have a higher hardness so I can get the edge that much sharper, but that's me.
My head hurts!!🫠
Great review. Hard pass for me with that low of an angle. That edge is gunna eventually chatter good. Where a higher 30°+ angle should prevent that way better. I prefer IWs that have replaceable blades. Id way rather spend a little extra money on replacement blades, than spend all day sharpening to get damage and chatter out
Iron wills are another great option. I have some of their standard sized SB and have been eyeballing the wide ones for my traditional bows. And with that replaceable blade you can very easily lay it completely flat to knock off the backside of the burr.
Curious what angle you used on the work sharp? I saw another video claiming you couldn’t get to 40 degrees on the work sharp, but that’s what VPA advertises is the angle on the bevel. Is this an issue (didn’t look to be)?
I think I had it set to 27 or 28 but didnt measure the true angle. Basically just adjusted it until the stone was laying flat and evenly wearing off sharpie. The 40 degrees total near the tip is not all on one side. It's more like 26/14 or so on front/back so the worksharp can handle it. I free handed the back so that I didn't need to adjust the clamp height, but you could definitely adjust it separately for each angle.
Sweet looking broadhead, but all the different angles on the facets is kind of annoying for the experienced sharpener and definitely daunting for the novice.
Cutthroat, Grizzly, Abowyer, Tuffhead cut on contact single bevels are not hard to sharpen.
When you push or pull on the stone at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90 it works better and is easier to have even pressure. Your hands and arms are in a more relaxed and natural position.
Good video, too much work for a high dollar broadhead. Been deer hunting 60 years will stick with my old Zwickeys and old Maghus heads.
I tested dozens and dozens of shots to 40 yards with left and right 1 1/2 degree and 3 degree each. Four different arrow setups. I could NOT see any indication AT ALL that the right beveled heads only had any effect on point of aim or contact. I used vertical and horizontal lines 1/2” wide for my reference points. The weighted field point arrows were sighted in then the various broadhead arrows were shot. Point is folks, don’t waste your time worrying about the fletch setup. Just get the correctly spined arrow and go hunting. People are putting way too much into this.
I agree on flight, but the reason to match has more to do with maintaining the direction of rotation on impact.
@@DIYSportsman can’t see the vane set having any ability to affect the head rotation after impacting hide and meat. The vanes forces were negated almost instantly. The bevel angle is then the driving force for rotation in tissue.
The heads will stop the arrows rotation on impact, but that uses energy to overcome and reverse the arrows' rotational momentum. Why intentionally steal energy from your system if you didn't have too?
@@timgruver5932 vane/arrow rotation being the same as the rotation of the bevel is the point of this, not arrow flight...arrow rotating to clockwise, bevel creating clockwise rotation after impact is just common sense.....