Nice, nice video. A real pro here. Listen...and listen well guys. This guy has prob. done 1000 break jobs. Like that hanger; perfect, or just cut a Clothing Hanger...making the "S" form....free.
Jim, I really like your videos. I go to them often before I start an auto repair project. You give a lot of details and what to watch out for, and usually give very good camera angles and lighting so that we can see what is going on. You're the best. I just completed a very successful disks and rotors replacement (front and read) on my 2008 CRV thanks to your great guidance. Thank you! Peter
Great video, Jim. Really appreciate it. Not quite the same as dad explaining it to me, but he's gone now... so you are a wonderful fill-in mechanic/ teacher. Thanks.
Thanks Jim, great review as its been awhile since I've done a brake job. I noticed my wife's 2016 crv has some spring clips to retain the pads, have not seen that style before. should end any annoying rattle.
Great vid! I used a proper Philips head bit - not screwdriver - and banged with a hammer several times and some Kroil - 8 screws on all wheel came off easily after that with a screwdriver. Similar to what you did. I reused mounts after wire brush. Bosch mount we’re not identical to OEM and had little dog-ears that scraped. Should have those rotor removal bolts ready for use. Banging on the rotor not necessary. All rotors typically have the threaded holes. Great vid!
Well done. But did you remove fluid from the reservoir before pushing the caliper pistons back? If not, and the reservoir is fairly full, you will push the brake fluid back into the reservoir and it will overflow.
2016 CR-V has pad spreaders. For rust bolts, PB Blaster works wonders. If you can pull the caliper off without trying to push the piston back first, I'd recommend not pushing the piston back first. You can then clean off the exposed piston (which can be layered in crud or rust). Put a thin film of brake fluid on the exposed part of the piston and then push them back into the caliper - the layer of oil makes pushing back the piston easier. Also, if you don't clean it, you're just pushing the crud back behind the seal. Finally, check your brake fluid reservoir level before pushing back the piston. If it's been topped off pushing back the pistons could overflow it.
Hey JIm, one pin has a rubber seal at the end the other one doesn't. Which one is the top and which one is the bottom pin? I've seen conflicting info online. Thank you.
Good video. I have a 2009 Honda CR-V, which pin goes on top & bottom, both in the front & back (smooth & 3 sided)? I’ve watched a bunch of videos and I’m confused.......Jim
do you always have to change the front brake too, because I just find only 1 passenger rear brake pad and rotor bad...the small shop mechanic told me to change both rear rotor and pad...but dealer told me to change all 4 front and rear...
Jim thank you for the video. I accidentally loosened a brake line bolt and quickly tightened it. However some fluid did leak out. Should I now have the brake lines bled for air? I also noticed a small amount of fluid from the master cylinder when done. I assume this is from compressing the Pistons for the new pads? Thanks Jeff
I tightened the guide pins but for some reason there's still some play when I move around the caliper itself. I tried tightening it down more and I snapped the guide pin bolt in the the guide pin and had to replace it. Is it normal for the caliper to have some play once it's installed?
Actually it is not a good idea but is better than nothing. I was not at the shop i was working at home. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe.
If you are a mechanic and you have a garage how come you didn't do the job by lubricating the sliding pins taking them out cleaning them and lubricating them that's a very important part I wouldn't take my car to your garage.
Nice, nice video. A real pro here. Listen...and listen well guys. This guy has prob. done 1000 break jobs. Like that hanger; perfect, or just cut a Clothing Hanger...making the "S" form....free.
Your neighbor is a lucky person. After the thousands of brakes jobs you've done over the years he can be certain this job was done correctly.
Yes that is for sure . I can do them with my eyes closed.
@@jimthecarguy = Master Mechanic
Jim, I really like your videos. I go to them often before I start an auto repair project. You give a lot of details and what to watch out for, and usually give very good camera angles and lighting so that we can see what is going on. You're the best. I just completed a very successful disks and rotors replacement (front and read) on my 2008 CRV thanks to your great guidance. Thank you! Peter
I drive a 2015 Honda CRV. Next year I will be needing brake pads . I will replace them after watching your video. Great job!!
Thank-you!!
Excellent details and thanks for mentioning those socket/wrench sizes, that's a bonus !
Great video, Jim. Really appreciate it. Not quite the same as dad explaining it to me, but he's gone now... so you are a wonderful fill-in mechanic/ teacher. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Jim, great review as its been awhile since I've done a brake job. I noticed my wife's 2016 crv has some spring clips to retain the pads, have not seen that style before. should end any annoying rattle.
Great job Jimmy. I liked that you worked in your garage too. Thanks
Great vid! I used a proper Philips head bit - not screwdriver - and banged with a hammer several times and some Kroil - 8 screws on all wheel came off easily after that with a screwdriver. Similar to what you did. I reused mounts after wire brush. Bosch mount we’re not identical to OEM and had little dog-ears that scraped. Should have those rotor removal bolts ready for use. Banging on the rotor not necessary. All rotors typically have the threaded holes. Great vid!
Best brake video by far. Thanks !!!
Glad you liked it!
Merci Jim! Une excellente vidéo! Très bien expliqué: clair et précis. J'ai procédé aux changements de mes freins avec vos conseils: un charme!!! A+++
Thanks Jim...your videos are very good. Natural teacher. I hope you keep making them and that your channel brings in some cash for you.
I appreciate that!
Well done. But did you remove fluid from the reservoir before pushing the caliper pistons back? If not, and the reservoir is fairly full, you will push the brake fluid back into the reservoir and it will overflow.
Excellent instruction and video. THANK YOU.
excellent video Jim, thanks from across the pond,
Great awesome video. As always you do great work. I hope you have a blessed week. Thanks for sharing your video.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing ur knowledge, much appreciated!👌🏻
2016 CR-V has pad spreaders.
For rust bolts, PB Blaster works wonders.
If you can pull the caliper off without trying to push the piston back first, I'd recommend not pushing the piston back first. You can then clean off the exposed piston (which can be layered in crud or rust). Put a thin film of brake fluid on the exposed part of the piston and then push them back into the caliper - the layer of oil makes pushing back the piston easier. Also, if you don't clean it, you're just pushing the crud back behind the seal.
Finally, check your brake fluid reservoir level before pushing back the piston. If it's been topped off pushing back the pistons could overflow it.
Good explanation, sir. Thank you.
Very detailed. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, my crv has single piston brake caliper, does this doble piston brake calipers would fit in my 2007 crv without any trouble ?
Hey JIm, one pin has a rubber seal at the end the other one doesn't. Which one is the top and which one is the bottom pin? I've seen conflicting info online. Thank you.
Thank you so much for your videos.
You are so welcome!
Good video. I have a 2009 Honda CR-V, which pin goes on top & bottom, both in the front & back (smooth & 3 sided)? I’ve watched a bunch of videos and I’m confused.......Jim
Nice work. Thank you
Amazing work!
Great video thanks a lot nailed it out
do you always have to change the front brake too, because I just find only 1 passenger rear brake pad and rotor bad...the small shop mechanic told me to change both rear rotor and pad...but dealer told me to change all 4 front and rear...
you should use jack stand for safety. Good video
Jim, thank you for the video, it's a nice clean job, if I was a Honda dealer I'll make you my manager. That grease you using, is that a white grease?
My 2015 has springs on the pads
Jim thank you for the video. I accidentally loosened a brake line bolt and quickly tightened it. However some fluid did leak out. Should I now have the brake lines bled for air? I also noticed a small amount of fluid from the master cylinder when done. I assume this is from compressing the Pistons for the new pads? Thanks Jeff
Do you have video on how to change lug nut
Which is caliper torque bolt?
is the brake pad same for 3rd and 4rth gen
great video and explanation, thanks
I'm happy to help.Thanks for watching.
I like watching your jobs Jim. Do you know of any common maintenance issues with the 2006 Ford 500 that I should watch for? Thanks, John
The most important thing to do is change your oil regularly. Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
thank you
I tightened the guide pins but for some reason there's still some play when I move around the caliper itself. I tried tightening it down more and I snapped the guide pin bolt in the the guide pin and had to replace it. Is it normal for the caliper to have some play once it's installed?
Jim, I noticed that you're using a scissor jack as a jack stand. Is it recommended to do so?
Actually it is not a good idea but is better than nothing. I was not at the shop i was working at home. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe.
Hi Jim is it necessary to bleed before installing pads and rotors?
My new rotor drags a bit, any advice?
i have a 2016 crv went for inspection honda says i need rear pads with rotors cause of some rust
Thanks 💪🏼🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
THANKS VERY VERY WELL DONE...
Nice job thanks
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching.
he has the caliper guide pins on wrong the one with the notch with the rubber grommet goes on the bottom
Great vid jim! Is it any different doing the back rotors and pads? Haven’t seen anyone do those.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks
Happy to help!
Are the retainer clips part of the missing hardware?
good question
Good descriptive audio but the video could be better with close-ups and better light.
Brake fluid should be changed and brakes need to be bled, though.
Thanks for the video! You have a NYC/Long Island Accent. You from any of these areas?
Close I'm from New Jersey.Thanks for watching.
I thought he was Aussie.
oi oi oi
Anti-Sieze all mating surfaces and bolts
If you use lubricant on bolt threads, you have to decrease the torque setting or else you'll be overtightening the bolts.
Couldn't the problem of shuddering have been solved by turning the rotors?
Mine has clips and an extra plate why?
Leave the small screws out
this is a $1000-$1300 job in my town
OMG! Where you live?
1st BOOM
Thank you Leon
Do you think if brakes fail your cheap friend would walk. You were used
.
Sure beat the hell out of it,lol. Next time use a threaded bolt in the face of the rotor to separate it . Way to aggressive here.
If you are a mechanic and you have a garage how come you didn't do the job by lubricating the sliding pins taking them out cleaning them and lubricating them that's a very important part I wouldn't take my car to your garage.
You obviously don't know what you are talking about. Did you see at 15:59 where I took the pins out cleaned and siliconed them and then reinstalled?
That’s not a 2015 that 2007-2011
Drone use by the system to create fire in the forest
Drone use by the system to create fire in the forest in California
can you make this freaking dog shut up !!
That would drive me crazy !
Thank you for sharing. It’s great help
Great video. Thank you sir.
Glad you liked it!
Drone use by the system to create fire in the forest in California