2010 Chevy Cobalt VVT Solenoid Diagnosis and Replacement
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Today, we have a 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt with a P0010 and a P0011 code. In this video, we look at how to diagnose the problem and then make the repair with the part(s) to fix it. We also give valuable tips along the way.
Fan of sports cars and exotic cars? the check out Ethan's other channel SoCal Hypercar Spotters @ / @socalhypercarspotters
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I DID IT !!!!! I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO AND FIXED MY OWN CAR. THE ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON FOR A WHILE. THE CAR WAS BUCKING WHENEVER I WAS STOPPED AT A LIGHT. I THOUGHT MY CAR WAS ON IT'S WAY OUT. I WENT TO AUTO ZONE AND THEY CHECKED IT AND PRINTED UP THE CODE. I LOOKED IT UP AND WATCHED THIS VIDEO. I ORDERED THE PARTS (I CHANGED THEM BOTH), THE LIGHT WENT OUT. IT RUNS SMOOTH. EVEN THE REMOTE START THING WORKS. NOW YOU MAY NOT BE IMPRESSED UNTIL I TELL YOU I AM A 66-YEAR-OLD GRANDMOTHER. YOU SAVED ME A COUPLE HUNDRED DOLLARS I BET. BUT EVEN BETTER- I FEEL SO PROUD OF MYSELF I COULD BUST. I SHOULD HAVE VIDEOED IT!!!! THANK-YOU THANK-YOU THANK-YOU !!!!
M. P. We are happy to hear that we could help! Thanks for telling us!
M. P. Wow! This is what makes it worth it! I’m so glad you got this figured out and did so against the status quo and stigma of gender or age. You’re an inspiration to others, so keep it up and take care of your own stuff! We’re very honored that we could help you out with this👍
good jod grandmom !!!!
This is probably the most detailed car repair video I have ever seen. Which is good for people who are not professional mechanics.
Hello there. Thank you SO much for this video. I fixed my own car. I am a 34y/o woman and I don't know enough about cars to know if I'm getting a fair price for work on my car.
My car was bucking while I was at a stop light and then it started while I was driving. This happened before but no lights came on my dash.
Today, the light came on. I searched the code and searched and found your video.
I did exactly as you said, multimeter and all. I changed my solenoids, went to clear the code and in the scan it showed no codes!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! ❤❤❤
I did exactly what you did and obtained the same result. The most important piece of information that you provided was the resistance range (7 to 10 volts) for a good solenoid. Your good one had a 12 volts resistance that you concluded was just fine. When both solenoids in my cobalt measured 14 volts, I concluded that they were good as well.
Before verifying p0010 and p0011 codes, I noticed that the car was shaking at idle after an oil change. Before I watched your video, I watched another video entitled " 2009 Chevy Cobalt Camshaft Position Sensor Error Code and Replacement." That video showed me the sludge that was surrounding the sensor. I cleaned the sludge in the cavity, I cleaned the sensor and then I cleaned the solenoids that you tested as well. Now the car is working great and sounds like a kitten. In conclusion, when you have an oil change in a cobalt, bad things can happen. It could be a result of mixing different types of motor oil. that sludge had the consistency of "grease". I believe that once surrounded by that "jelly", the solenoids could not properly detect oil pressure and temperature. I did find some black sludge (half way on the side of) the two top solenoids.
You did an excellent job at explaining every step of the procedure. If I did not watch you struggle to move the base plate of the solenoid with a screwdriver, I would have caused some damage to my solenoids, because I did not buy a new one and would not have known the exact shape of the base of the solenoid when surrounded by grease dirt and rust.
I am looking forward to watch more videos from you. Let me take the liberty to give you a few tips: #1: When recording outside, the sun is your projector. Do not position yourself between the sun and the area that you are describing. Avoid having the camera and you cast a shadow on the spot of interest. #2: You are the owner of the channel. You decide what to post, how long it remains posted etc. This video is filled with good information delivered with a calm and reassuring voice. I strongly suggest that you watch it on your video editor and patiently look for sections that can be cut out. By example, I would not show how to replace the engine cover at the end of the video, because you do not want someone who never took out this 9 year old car engine cover to be trying to do his first job with your help. That person will likely make the situation worse.
When editing out section of a video, you write down the exact intervals that you want out with a begenning time and an ending time. But for these time intervals to be relevant, you must start by cutting out the LAST interval near the end of the video and then work your way toward the front and finally the first interval. Let say that you only want to cut two interval The first interval starting at exactly 3 minutes and ending at 03: 35 (3 minutes and 35 second). Then the second intervat stars at 6 minutes and then stops at 7 minutes. If you cut out the first interval, then the beginning of the second interval is no longer at 6 minutes. It is at 6 minutes minus 35 seconds = (5 minutes 25 seconds). Most of the videos that I posted could be better if I was patient enough to review them and edit them once more. 1/4 of the videos that I posted, I later deleted. You can post this video and also post an edited version of this same video that has a titles ithat looks identical except for a dot.
After six month you will be able to verify which one the public like best. At that point you can decide to keep both or just keep one. You are in complete control of your channel. I like your first video and hope that you will publishing many more videos on UA-cam. Thank you! PRP
Thanks for your feedback! We appreciate your words and will take them into consideration! We aren't new at filming but we are new to doing UA-cam, which we know is different in many ways. Hopefully we get better and make it easier to help others!
@@rcmaintenance656 On UA-cam, there are people who know how to use their video editors. but I am not one of them. I found it to be rewarding to wait for a sunny day.
But hot sunny days will also make me sweat. Sometimes I do the right thing by planning the videos in advance on paper.
Then I forget to look at my face in the mirror before I start recording.
Having paint on your face or dirty lenses can require extra editing work.
I appreciate your response and can assure you that UA-cam used to frequently ask if they could (edit) stabilize the videos that I recorded while holding the camera in my hand. I always regret recording on a cloudy day but I still do it sometimes. I think that I noticed a section of your video where the original audio was replaced later. I did that once or twice by using features from two cheap editors. But lately I realized that the DIY videos that get the most views have "no spoken words." The advantage that theses "speechless" videos have is that they do not need to be translated to any language. Almost all of them have sound in the form of some kind of fast paced annoying music. Maybe my next video will be a "silent" one. It is always about the next time that I will have the privilege to record a new video or delete an old video. Either way, it is work..
@@generatorblue The editor I used to edit this video was Adobe's Premier Pro. DIY videos in my opinion are overrated, because they like to skip steps and leave out things. Not having to translate is nice, but having videos in multiple languages can be a huge benefit, so I can get a friend to translate, but these things are better and more informative than "speechless" DIY videos
Great Vid. I bought these solenoid but didn't know how to install. You just saved me hundreds of dollars 💵 😌 for something simple I can do myself. Thank you
Awesome! Love it👍
thank you senor , this problem sounds identical to my own in my 2009 cobalt , cant wait for sun to rise to jump on it , vvt solenoids, gracias senor
rodney arredondo let us know how it goes.
Great video. I also replaced the solenoid by myself - Thank you! The Cobalt is a really well designed car, but also this was a great video and you're amazing! TY!
good video, simple, changed mine on same code, all good, i changed both while there.
the ohm information is the best piece in the video. I have a 09 cobalt with p0010 code. This is the second time I have had this code. I changed both the intake and exhaust sensors 4 years ago. nothing unusual happened this time. oil is full. just erratic idle triggered the code. I'm going to check the ohms first. if good, I'll clean the sensor and reset the battery. hope this works. going to do it today.
cutehumor How did everything go?
@@Rcworship79 my valve sensor tested bad. Since I was getting 1 ohms, I replaced it with Autozone duralast lifetime part. If the sensor tested normal, I would have cleaned it and reinstalled. but with the new sensor everything is good. engine idles perfectly now
Great video bud. But was gonna let you know most of the time that hard black debris is the stationary timing guide coming apart bad on the ecotec engines. And alot of the time the chain stretches in that direction because of engine rotation and causing the intake came to move out of correlation.
Thanks for the video. Ohm spec was helpful. The exhaust solenoid tested as an open circuit, intake was 13 ohms. I replaced both so I wouldn't have to go back and do it for the intake later. Cost was around $100 for both at Autozone with a lifetime warranty
Awesome! Great job. Imagine how much you saved doing it yourself 👍
Nice how-to video, straight to the point. Kudos!
Thanks for this. Took me 15 minutes with your instructions. You da man!
Awesome video, a little long, but I like that you spare no detail. I myself like long videos because they can teach me new tricks. Anyways, time to work on my brothers car
Josh Henry let us know how it went.
Great video. Thank you for your time. I think I'm having same issue with my 2010 cobalt. I wish, my town had honest mechanics like you.
I noticed my car lacking power on acceleration while driving, especially climbing roads. Got the check engine light on and found codes P0326 and P0327 first on OBD test. The mechanic changed the Knock sensor only to find out later that it wasn't the knock sensor, but some wires causing the issue. They fixed that issue and a week later new codes P2270 (cleared) and P0010 (permanent) popped up accompanied by rough idle (as if the engine is going to stall).
I ran a bottle of Seafoam in my gas tank since some users in online forums were suggesting it for this issue. The Codes disappeared after taking it for a drive, so did the rough idle. Few days later, I was surprised to find the codes P0010 and P2270 yet again and the rough idle is now back.
I checked the oil dipstick and oil is golden in color, not dark. I change oil every 5000 Km and there is about 2000+ km left before the next oil change. I found possible scenarios for codes P0010 and P2270 are numerous. From Bad Camshaft solenoid, Bad O2 Sensor, Oil change, ECU defect, Wiring issues and the list goes on and on.
Just wondering from your experience, do you see any connection between the codes P0010 and P2270 since they came together? (I was able to clear P2270, but not P0010) Could a wiring issue or ECU error trigger rough idle and noisy engine? Shouldn't a bad ECU trigger only Check engine light to turn ON?
I bought a OBDII tool since Canadian tire charges $104 for OBDII diagnostics with one hour labor. Now I know how to find the codes and what to look for online including the replacement parts. So as to follow your steps, I need to buy a Wrench extension and a multimeter to check the resistance of solenoid.
I would appreciate your help or any suggestion in this regard. Thanks.
T J I’m sorry for the late response-I didn’t see your message until this morning. Did you get it sorted out? The P0010 is likely that intake VVT solenoid, but could be wiring, dirty/clogged screen on the solenoid, to name a few possibilities. The P2270 is a constant lean condition at the heated oxygen sensor. That could be a bad O2 sensor, a result of the sea foam, a symptom of the VVT error, or even an ECM problem. We had a failed UCM that gave no symptom except the CEL (check engine light) for the fuel pump control circuit. I had to get an ECM from the junk yard and program it. Save a ton of money because I was able to get the hardware from the college I teach at.
Let us know if you still need assistance or if you got it figured out. Again, sorry for the delay!
@@Rcworship79
That is alright. Thank you for responding. The problem still exists.
I recently changed the oil and oil filter at 2500 km (usually at 5000 km) just to sort out, if it is the dirty oil causing the issue. The oil didn't look bad as I expected.
Also I removed the connectors and checked the resistance of intake and exhaust solenoid. The Intake measured auto-range 11 Ω and exhaust measured about 11.5 - 12 Ω fluctuating.
I believe it is in the acceptable range? I haven't completely removed the solenoids yet to see what is going underneath (clogged screen?).
The car still has rough idle.
The check engine light is still on. A strange thing I noticed while driving is CEL sometimes disappear and appears back after sometime accompanied by rough idle.
I regularly scan for engine codes back after the drive. So far there are no new codes other than P0010 and P2270. Do you see any connection between these codes? Could they be anyway related to a faulty ECU or wiring?
I checked with few workshops and they said it would take 5-6 hours to diagnose. I don't know how much it really costs to fix this issue or if it is something I can do myself.
What do you recommend me doing next? Thank you Ryan.
T J Sorry-that last post came from my personal UA-cam account. I would take the solenoids out and look at the screens-and make sure there isn’t junk clogging them up, at least to rule that out. That other code-I gave you some possibilities in the last response. Start with the P0010 and then move on once you’ve sorted that issue out. It is possible that these are indicative of a faulty ecm, but that’ll take some testing.
@@rcmaintenance656 Np. I'm going to do it today. Yesterday the CEL disappeared and came back again after I drove a bit. This is strange, which made me think could it be result of a faulty wiring or the ECU itself. Anyways I will start with cleaning the solenoids first. I hope a MAF sensor cleaner will do the job. Should I connect the solenoid to a 12V battery to spray clean it completely once they're removed? It has got the "clicking" mechanism inside when 'powered' that I saw from other videos. I'll update how it goes. Thank you Ryan !
@@rcmaintenance656 Cleaned the intake and exhaust solenoid with MAF sensor cleaner. There was very little clog around it. They were connected to a 12 V supply to clean it completely.
I also spray cleaned the MAF sensor with the the MAF sensor cleaner and changed the air filter. Finally cleaned the throttle body (butterfly valve) using a Throttle body cleaner after disconnecting the battery and the connector to TB. There was quite a bit of carbon buildup found inside. Cleaned them with a lint-free towel.
I performed the ECU reset and the CEL was gone and found to have come back later. Scanned the OBD to find out the P0010 code again and P2270 disappeared. Performed the electronic throttle body relearn by cranking the car on idle for 3 minutes and ignition turned off for one minute. Performed the procedure thrice.
Took the car for a drive accelerating, decelerating and braking through traffic and highway for about 30 kilometres. Noticed the car got increased power and idle RPM fluctuated between 650-1000, Coolant temperature read fine, Mileage got back to 9.5L/100 km from 35L/100km which was previously shown in the instrument cluster after the relearn procedure.
The car when comes to a stop while driving or when parked still gives a rough idle with light in the instrument cluster flickering slightly. The battery was replaced 8 months ago. No issues cranking cold start or any other time.
Possible suspects responsible for rough idle, when researched discusses about:
* Vacuum leak/ Air leak (Injectors/Vacuum tubes) * Air leak at O-rings of intake manifold and fuel rail * Fuel filter * Fuel injector/injector bar * O2 Sensor * Electrical wiring defects * ECU defect * Spark plugs * Throttle body / TBS * Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid * Ignition coil pack * MAP sensor * Spark control unit * Torque converter solenoid * Alternator * Clogged catalytic converter * Timing chain
Which one of the above mentioned would you recommend me to be checked next? Please reply when you've time. Thank you.
What an awesome video this is exactly what is wrong with my daughters cobalt, this helps me a lot. thank you.
robowis1 awesome-so glad this helped! Good to see people taking diagnosis and repairs into their own hands.
Excellent job
Reginald Gibby Thank you! We ended up having a bizarre issue with the fuel pump control circuit and ended up having to replace the ECM. No symptom except a check engine light, but it needs to pass a smog test now.
Awesome auto repair content! Thanks for your efforts.
Your welcome! Glad it was helpful.
You guys are awesome. Thanks.
You guys do an excellent job explaning every on your videos... Keep up the work...ECB.
Very explicit, very useful, the guy very polite, I found the video helpful and save me a couple pesos, thanks and best wishes all the way from Matamoros México
This worked great. Replaced both of them. How do you erase the error codes and the light to go off? Thanks. Very good video.
Tom,
You can use a cheap code reader to erase the codes. You can also call your local parts store and see if they can pull codes and erase them for free. "Worst" case, drive it for a few days to a week and the system self-check monitors will run and determine the errors are no longer present, and the service engine light will be turned off. Let us know how it goes.
Yep. After two days the check engine light went off and the car is running smoothly. Thanks again.
Thank you for the info and background.
Thanks bro
My volt meter reads 16.9 ohms with the meter set at 200 ... should I replace the solenoid?
Hey Billythebassist, according to the specs this should be replaced if not within 5-9 ohms. I've always been very hesitant to buy and replace parts when the numbers are close, but the engineers have the specific parameters worked out, so swap it out. If you're not in too big a hurry you can look around on some online parts websites and find much better prices. Look at the warranty terms also. Even Amazon has some great deals on factory and aftermarket parts. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
@@rcmaintenance656 Will do, Thanks!
with you being a mechanic you should know your suppose to unhook the battery before changing and electrical components on these cars . at least the manuals tell you to as well as some part stores when you buy them
Thank you for the note. The idea behind disconnecting the battery ground when doing any electrical or electronic repairs is to ensure no damage is done to them or the PCM. It is a precautionary measure.
In this case, with the key off, there is no power to the solenoid, so there is no real reason to disconnect the battery. Remember, when you disconnect the battery, unless you have a memory saver device, you have to reset clocks and radio stations, and you have to perform a complete drive cycle to run the monitors before you can smog it.
Hope this helps.
Can these go bad on Cobalts without having the engine light come on? I just had a dealership say both my cam shaft sensor and exhaust solenoid were bad but my engine light was not on...
Free Samples it’s possible, but I would definitely suggest you get another opinion. It’s highly unlikely all that will be bad with no light on. Sounds like they want to throw a bunch of parts at it and make a quick buck. What are the symptoms?
What is the tools you used the one you said your favorite one?? Where can I buy it
The tool I used is from Cornwell tools, the PB-3. You might be able to find one from any of the professional tool trucks or suppliers. Here's a link to the actual one from Cornwell, for your info:
corporate.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/PB3-%252d-16%E2%80%9D-Pinch-%26-Pry-Bar.html
What is so good is the curved end. Good luck with you search.
شكرا على الفديو👏✔😍
Where did you get the replacement part??
Autozone.
Does it cause a misfire
It can, but not 100%.
EXH - INT its marked .
The intake is on the side of the plastic intake manifold and the exhaust is the side of the metal exhaust manifold. Also, the connectors are different between the two.