Hi Eric. Try slowing down the rotation speed. This will help with both chatter and keeping the cutter cooler. This is how the machinists deal with both those problems. Thank you for taking the time to make the vids you have saved me a fortune over the years.
Keep up the well done and informative videos, you're easy to understand and you obviously do know of what you speak. I too was a mechanic for 30 years and retired about 12 years ago, mostly due to arthritis in my back after breaking it on the job, just could'nt take the pain at the end, (or before the end) of each day. Getting old sucks, don't do, I'm telling you. I have found that like most of you it's in my blood. Every night I'm out in my garage doing something else on my '88 Toyota p/u, but I've found once in a while I need to brush up on some repair that after this much time I've forgotten certain details here and there. I was glad to find Eric's videos as like I said, he seems to know his shit. And we used to turn flywheels back in the 80's at a brake shop I worked t then and you mentioned about every issues we came across do so, and resolved them the same ways we used to. Anyway, keep em coming, I'll keep watching. Later and God Bless.
I spent a few years at a Chevy dealer also ten at an International truck dealer. Yes no specs were ever given except for Cummins diesel flywheels. What I learned in both Chevy78-81 and International 81-92 was you could remove material until the bevel at the edge of the wear surface was gone, usually at the outside edge. What I used to do to save tool bit wear was first run the flywheel with a jitterbug Sanders with approx 80-100 grit paper to remove burnt on dirt ect that the parts washer wouldn't remove. The discolored spots are hardened areas that have overheated the steel or iron and caused it to become crystallized, only shallow passes with the carbide cutting bit or a grindstone will cut through. Some older brake drum cutting machines had powered grindstone attachments. Love the videos, my son got me started watching, thank you.
I bought a welder and saw Eric with Mr. Tig and loved that channel. Then many years later I bought a lathe and I see Eric and almost didn't recognize him. Looking good and very interesting project.
We had a neat little custom-built anti-chatter rig for machining flywheels back when I went through automotive in college. It was one of those pinchy metal salad tong things, with an old brake pad on one side, and a small drum brake return spring pulling the two sides together. Our brake lathe had a stud sticking out on the other side of the cutter bar that the other side of the tongs would clip onto. For anyone that's wanting to be extra-cautious, or just doing a lot of flywheels, it's a worthwhile hack! :)
I said this to my old boss a million times. He kept saying it couldn't be done till I did one without him knowing. then we did all of them in house. Me and my big mouth lol. Great tip Eric.
Ammco makes a grinder that attaches in place of the drum bar for machining flywheels. If you have hot spots the lathe will not cut the hot spots they are too hard that’s what the grinder is for. They also make an attachment to use rather then using the twin cutter which works better when doing a stepped wheel.
Yes sir you can.. and note to self, next time after the finish cut, take your 90' grinder with a skuffy wheel on it, and with the lathe running put a uni-directional polish finish on the new surface, when the tech that set ours up and gave the introduction to brake re-surfacing schpiel, he made a believer out of all of us.... I'm always about doing the work in house if possible, and this is a great tip... Thanks man....
I'm a first year college student working to get my degree in autos and I operated this lathe machine last semester. I used the old brake rotors provided to play with the machine. It's simple and fun to watch the process
Eric, nice work , just a observation, keep track of how much you remove from the flywheel . some hydraulic systems only allow for .010 -.025 in material to be remove before it can be a problem. They offer shims to take up the amount removed so you can keep it close to the original specs. Also remember to make sure the fly wheel is flat all the way across. some have a raised portion that you need to take the same amount off both surfaces.
I think your tip of setting your depth of cut on the outer section is excellent. You might also try slowing the RPMs as you get closer to the outside. You are covering a lot more surface area as the diameter increases. Does your machine click onto the speed settings in notches or is it variable where you could gradually slow it a few RPMs at a time?
Doesn't the uneven cutting sound when you start machining at 2:26 mean it's not mounted straight on the spinning axle? And doesn't that in turn mean that when you finish making the surface uniform to that angle, the balance will be off once it's back on the car?
Hey Eric, on semi flywheels, we put the flywheel/ crank bolts in the flywheel loose, on the bench and put the friction disc on the flywheel to see if the disc clears the bolts and if necessary measure the gap between the bolts and torque springs to see how much material is left to machine.
the serviceability specs for most flywheels involves a percentage based visual damage check followed by a deflection survey performed by applying a specific load (in aviation, maximum operating load) to the work surface, and measuring the deflection amount for entire circumference recording highest and lowest amount by dial indicator. The max allowed can't be exceeded by the highest amount, and the average from both being under 0.01 inches. TBH I personally haven't had any flywheel pass visual damage specs and then fail for deflection threshold. I'm not certain this even applies to Automotive though, the manuals for ground based transport only used visual damage inspection of the tempered tooth ring insuring less than 30% of teeth missing, and under 30% of the teeth having no more than 30% of contact surfaces damaged, and then a relaxed state deformation check.
This is a great idea, UNTIL you encounter hard spots. That cutting tool will glide right over them leaving a bumpy finish. The only way to remove these "hard spots" is to grind them out.
been doing this on the old classic Annco brake lathes for years, a similar set up but not nearly as nice as yours. never had a manual for a lathe, wouldn't be surprised if more of them can manage it. always start with a fresh bit and try to wrap the flywheel or do whatever you can to minimize chatter. Great videos man, keep them coming!
my only concern would be getting the flywheel square to the tool travel. if the mounting surface isnt square with the face of the flywheel you can run it out of balance and do some real damage. most places would indicate the face of that part first before machining.
@@DrewLSsix There are other videos showing flywheel specialists taking a lot of trouble to set the ''back' of the fllywheel's inner face that sits tight against the crankshaft,co-planar with the cutter.This set-up looks a bit open to run-out due even to dirt or burrs.I don't trust it even though he gets so pleased by the finished look.
+IIGrayfoxII It would make a terrible mess that is hard to clean up. It's easier to control the turning speed and the depth of cut. Eric forgot that the outside edge of the flywheel is moving faster than the inside. You can get some cooling using compressed air.
+EricTheCarGuy There is also a lot more material on the outside part of the face of the flywheel, and more surface feet per minute. So lathe speed and tool feed should both be set to the outer part of the surface to be machined, always. Excellent result tho. Holding another object against the back side of the part you are machining is acceptable if you are careful and think it through properly. A slight film of oil on the face applied before the lathe is turning may also help in some applications. Those are just a couple tips for the future. But I must say, excellent result Eric.
+Theguywhowouldn't I started at the inside because that's how I do rotors. There's often more material there. It seems flywheels are just the opposite. Great insight. Thanks for your input.
+EricTheCarGuy If there is no wear on the face you are surfacing, then the outside has more material, always. You have been machining brake rotors for a while now and know what to expect. You have already worked out your procedures for doing them. The brake rotors you have encountered have more wear on the outside because of the more surface feet per minute, more friction on the outside of the rotor and more heat equals more wear. The outside of the rotor actually expands into the brake pad and is worn more. Again, great results.
Yeah, no kidding. I've seen too many lathe accident training videos to ever look away from someone wearing long sleeves while machining. I came to the comments just to see how many others would say something.
I'm a teacher CNC and conventional machining and the funny/sad thing is, we are not allowed to work with short sleeves anymore. A full overall is required. On a safety meeting with the lady from the insurance I questioned this and she said it was because of hot chips. I answered that I personally find hot chips on my arms better then losing an arm. But well, rules are rules I guess. A accident will probably have to happen before they change.
Sander Vercammen That is lunacy, I'm not a machinist at all but a forklift engineer, any who, rule number one I've always been taught is when working around ANY sort of rotating machinery is no long sleeves, hair, ect.. Followed by no gloves, jewellery. Sounds like a typical clip board warrior who 'knows best', they see a safety issue but not the real dangers as they have no clue. It's sickening.
Years ago I worked in the machine shop at a local NAPA store. I used to resurface flywheels this way. We would cut it and then make a pass or two with a grinder that mounted on the brake lathe to take care of any hot spots. We later got a dedicated flywheel grinding machine.
I’ve machined loads of flywheels on my Harrison M390. Some are flat , some are stepped , need to remove the 3pins and skim usually with a Diamond tip, cause they have hard spots and carbide leaves raised spots, you can skim them on a surface grinder also. I have also removed lots of material on the backside of the flywheel so it spins up to revs faster (on race car flywheels). When done replace pins” if not damaged “ if they are use silver steel , job done.
Omg is a super idea, i now is not the etcg1 but is my bithday,an thanks a lot your videos help me to repair a Ford Ranger 98 and that ranger was a gift from my grandfather,i love your videos
Did this too, but had problems with the cutting tip bouncing over the hot spots that were work-hardened from the slipping clutch. The hot spots were raised like welts on your skin - looking at this video, I suspect maybe we needed to get the cutting tip into a new point position for a shaper cut. Anyway, we clamped an angle grinder to the lathe arm and turned on both the grinder and the lathe to grind the flywheel. The finish was fairly rough and coarse, however, to our surprise, it worked a treat, with the clutch engaging smoothly and without shudder!
for a better finish slow your cutting feed down to about 3-31/2, Also while it is still on the lathe take some fine emerycloth or a 3m wheel and finish by lightly sanding it by hand or with a block, that will give you a non directional smooth finish
tried this recently with my pro cut. works well for flywheels up to about 2 liter. the bigger ones go on the surface grinder. wear on the cutting tool is much higher than when ma hining a rotor but maybe i just need a shallower cut as the rate is not adjustable.
I tried that years ago and the brake rotors bits would not cut through any hot spots on the flywheel. I suspect that is why a flywheel grinder is a stone. I do use my brake lathe to custom grind pistons in automatic transmissions. Works ausome to add extra clutches and get precision clearances.
Seen your video a while back finally bought an old brake lathe machine and tried putting my accord flywheel on Ammco 7000 the hole is too small for that 1' arbor.
The "flywheel machining machine" you mentioned having used before didn't operate like this, nor did it produce a finish like this. Will this work in a pinch? Probably....somewhat. But does it make sense once you figure in the cost of your labor, the burning up of a cutter bit, and the sub-optimal result?
Great video Eric. I will try this on my Ammco brake lathe. We often don't machine flywheels because of time constraints as our shop is in rural New Zealand and we would lose a day sending it to a machine shop. I'll find an old one and have a go.
I used to do this back in the 80's with our Van Norman Brake lathe, worked OK until you had a flywheel with "hardened hotspots". There were many with the hot spots that did not work well. Flywheel grinder only for those ones. @EricTheCarGuy Have you came across this?
Makes total sense now. Never would've done it until now. A buddy was freaking out about getting his flywheel machined years ago. Should've told him to go to a Mieneke with it.
My Van norman machine has attachments for turning flywheels. sometimes the flywheel will have hard spots from excessive overheating and a lathe won't do a good job of resurfacing flywheels with hard spots. That's when a surface grinder or flywheel grinder is needed to ensure a smooth flat surface. Also outside mass flywheels are hard to do on a brake lathe because you need to machine the wear surface and the pressure plate mounting surface by the same amount to keep the pressure on the disk the way it was designed originally.
That flywheel out of that 5.0/T5 combo is supposed to have dowel pins. I suggest you get replacements before reinstalling the pressure plate or it can cause headaches later.
i think it might help to take an angle grinder with a mild abrasive disc to the flywheel after you cut it, and while its still spinning on the machine, it would remove the almost microscopic 'record' cut that the bit will make as it backs out... i know disc brakes tend to make more noise and also grab the pads a little too aggressively if they are left with a directional finish, i would assume that a clutch, being a large brake pad itself would do the same, except in this case it would cause the clutch to grab early in its biting point and make for some uncomfortable pedal feedback during the breaking in process
Eric, If the flywheel is cast iron, you should (as you showed) machine it dry. OTOH, if it's steel you're dealing with, use a little cutting oil brushed on prior to each pass. Yes, smoke, AKA "shop fragrance", is generated, but the cutting insert will last longer. Eli D.
+Eli Dustman If you set the bit on the outside of the flywheel, instead of the inside like I did in the video, it won't be an issue as you won't cut too much off and heat up the bit.
Did you check the runout of the mount face prior to cutting? When you started cutting, it sounded like it was touching and then not touching as the flywheel wobbled a little bit? Did it pulse after you put it in the car?
If those bits are carbide you don't need to rotate them, the belt for chatter is a good idea but you can slow down the lathe, take a smaller cut or lower your feed rate as well.
Eric having also resorted to this ill say the drum cutter arm works better than the disk cutterson bigger flywheels in my opinion just mount it and run it like a disk with the drum blade on it works great
oreillys have been turning flywheels on there brake lathe for me for years now, they say there not suppose to but they do it any ways, they cant turn the dual mass flywheels at all though
+Southern Mechanic You can't turn dual mass flywheels. When using a brake lathe to do this, it may be difficult to get out some hard spots. A flywheel machine with a grinding stone is the best option but a much more expensive machine, and it can only be used for flywheels. This can be used to resurface drums and rotors as well.
I have heard of companies selling dual mass flywheel rebuild kits as an alternative to machining. I don't know much about it because I hardly ever encounter a car or truck with a manual transmission of any kind.
eric I learned the hard way you must ad a spacer ring on the other side when mounting the same amount you cut off or it will slip I know it happened to me I had to take it right back out
thanks Eric. I have always wanted to see this tried out because years ago I learned that a fly cutter is used instead of a lathe because the surface finish quality is critical for smooth clutch operation. I expected the video would have ended with a road test of the resembled clutch. How did it drive?
machining the flywheel would not affect the life time of the new clutch? as with the minimum amount of clutch wear, slipping might possibly happen? another question, how can i get the minimum flywheel thickness? U have taught us that for brake discs the minimum thickness is written on the disc it self. nothing similar to the flywheel? thanks Mr Eric the mentor.
Do a timing chain replacement on a Nissan ka2.4e Hardbody engine. There are a lot of these trucks around, I know I'm interested because I have two of these trucks and one may need the timing chain replaced.
In regards to stopping to let the tool cool off, if that's a carbide insert (which it looks like it is), you need not worry about heat. Machining at that low speed will never produce enough heat to hurt the tool. They do wear down and will eventually just shatter the tip off but it's not heat related failure. In the machining world carbide will get run at 6000+ RPM dry sometimes (no coolant) if the logistics of getting coolant to the insert are too difficult. Source: I am a machinist.
+Barbados Joe I've turned the flywheel on every clutch job I've ever done in the last 40 years. You want a new clutch disc to have a nice uniform surface on the flywheel and your new pressure plate.
Mr Frog Question for ya. Is it more common to machine flywheels on a manuel transmission or does it not matter? I ask cause at my shop there's only 1 transmission guy and I've never seen him go near a brake lathe except for the occational gravy brake job.
Just to clarify,manual trans has a flywheel,auto trans has a flexplate.I always machine or "turn" a flywheel for a new clutch.Most techs send the flywheel to a parts store or other shop to have it turned on a lathe.If the lathe is big enough,you can turn a flywheel.Check out mrpete222 on youtube.He's a retired machine shop teacher and has 700 videos on working with metal.
+Barbados Joe It is prefer d , you do not want a uneven surface on you'r new clutch and pressure plate, that can cause it to shutter. Do it right the first time, its a bitch to do the same job twice. I do it on engines i build for customers free off charge just to save myself a head ace .
Absolutely.I would also see alot of flywheels damaged by the clutch not having any friction material left on it.I did also see some flywheels cracked between the crank bolts and center of the flywheel-time for a new flywheel.
@5:58 your left hand at your middle finger there is a hole that is "filled in" that is your depth gauge for how far you can machine it down. if you cut below that the flywheel is garbage.
Want to do this at work but the wheel I have in mind has a raised section where the pressure plate attaches. I’m not sure it can be setup to cut close to the raised portion without hitting it🤔
I was always taught to not let your cutting tool rub (chirp) against the part you're working on to prolong the life of your cutting edge. Also I would think you'd want to add a little cutting oil to protect your bit/cutting edge. I understand you want the flywheel clean and oil free though. Does the flywheel become rough with time? Is this something that's typical with a clutch replacement?
+Kenneth Wilkins I think for a flywheel, oil would be a bad idea. The chips coming off the flywheel look like cast iron which is usually cut with no lubricant anyway.
I'm sure this method is used in the industry but what about flywheels with specific tolerances on how much you can grind off? Isn't that the reason why a blanchard grinder is used/recommended?
Wouldn't matter much. The finish is for break in and nothing else. Mine was radial cut and made no difference. I've got 10 years on it with a new clutch and the surface is still perfect.
Not sure if a some flywheel run out is as big a deal as a front brake rotor run out. The appearance looks good , but if equipement was a questionable older lathe like many shops have, to play it safe before removing larger size brake rotor (or in this case a flywheel with a lot of labor involved) A run out check with a dial indicator on the vehicle with the high and low spots marked, and then see if the high and low spots on the rotor or flywheel mounted on the machine correspond to the same place position as when mounted on the car. By marking the high and low point locations on the rotor or flywheel before hand and just re- mounting and re-clocking of the work on your Lathe a few times to best match what you measured , you'll be surprised how much re clocking the work on machine can make .
I've also "cleaned up" a transmission basket on a lathe. I've also cut up old hub assembly's, cleaned them up on the lathe for a bolt on lathe adaptor. I.E. really big rotors with 8 to 10 inch centers. just cut up the hub until you can chuck it up in the lathe and bolt the rotor to it with the lug nuts. does this make sense? Its brilliant in my mind
Wow. The friction material on that flywheel... I wonder if that's the cause of the heat. So, if you were to ever to charge for such a service, plan on them buying you bits too.
The discoloring and heat marks are usually from someone slipping the clutch because they do not know how to drive a vehicle with a manual transmission properly and or a mechanical issue causing the clutch to not fully engage (improperly adjusted cable in the case of the fox this was installed in)
+Rob Mckennie Yes easily, if the lathe is large enough. Also the machine is called an engine lathe, not a machine lathe. Sounds odd I know, but that's the name.
+Rob Mckennie "my question is can you machine a brake rotor on a regular machine lathe?" Anything that is "turned" can be put on a lathe so long as you can figure out a way to hold it, and the power of the motor is sufficient enough to rotate it properly. The same can be said for any piece of material in a mill. So long as you can hold it down sufficiently, and the machine is able to move to necessary positions unencumbered it can and will do the task. The brake/flywheel lathe is just a lathe. It's purposely built to only do a few things. It could do more depending on availability of tools/inserts but primarily it's built for that and that alone. A normal lathe, be it manual or CNC can do anything a brake/flywheel purpose built lathe can do, and or can do it better. It will just cost more, and be capable of more. If your only intention is to turn rotors/drums/flywheels getting a larger setup like a bridgeport wouldn't make a lot of sense, as it would take up more room, likely a bit more costly and have a higher learning curve. +Macavellic "yes, you just need the right adapters to hold it." You don't necessarily need the "right" adapters to hold it, just one that will work. +ALAPINO "No. A little time indicating on a 4-jaw should be fine (unless of course you're doing a lot of rotors, in that case a purpose built setup is only there for expediency)." That's not entirely accurate. All you would really need is a stout enough rod, and it being threaded on one end, with a base on one side, and a cone on the other. If the rod is too long like in this case, use some spacers and tighten it down. So long as you get the rod indicated, and just for good measure indicate an edge of the plate, you are all good. From that point out, all you would have to do is loosen the nut on one end, and change it out. You could do tons of them one after the other easily. The only problem you may run into is the mass of the rod/disc/flywheel is too much for the lathe motor to handle properly. +Theguywhowouldn't "Yes easily, if the lathe is large enough." By large enough are you talking about the jaws to hold it? Or the power required to spin the mass of the disc/drum/flywheel? If it's the latter I would agree that could be an issue. If the former, then it doesn't matter that much as you do not need to hold the piece directly, you can use a jig/tool to hold the piece.
qballtvp I'm confident that my lathe would be able to hold a rotor fine, my thinking in asking the question was that perhaps a brake lathe can be built to be more accurate because it's only doing one very particular thing, and therefore a general purpose lathe might not be accurate enough.
thank you very much for that Eric ill be turning my fly wheel as soon as I get my engine back from the machine shop by any chance could you make a video on a Honda k series if you ever get a chance to do any heavy line work on one
+Bryan Acosta Actually machine the flywheel BEFORE you send your stuff to the machine shop. That way they can balance it properly. I've got several videos on the K series. www.ericthecarguy.com/videos
Bits will overheat on cast when making shallow cuts. Most lathe and bit manufacturers recommend cutting at a moderate depth. By doing so, much of the heat is carried away from the tooling into the project material.
+EricTheCarGuy Even then, making the cut more deeply, such as in one pass rather than 2 passes, will keep the bit cooler because the bit is making enough contact to transfer the heat. On shallow cuts, the tool retains more heat effectively decreasing the tool life by about 50%.
Also keep in mind that the radius of the flywheel makes the surface feet of material removal considerably different from inside to outside, I would guess that is why you torched the bit.
I know this is very old video but to help with chatter you can take an all lead wheel weight and lightly hold up to the surface will help cut down noise
What's the best bits to buy in your opinion. I have an old aamco with a bunch of attachments that I bought for 200 bucks!! And i grabbed a set of tortche also. It paid for its self 100 x over.
Question, the holes where the pressure plate bolts on, dosen't that dammage the bits as they go over them? I was always tought not to turn drilled or slotted rotors for that reason.
I have cut them on a Engine Lathe (Machinist by Trade) and also sent them out. they used to Grind them on a small Blanchard Type Grinder also sometimes the small Heat Checks on the surface after machining I would not worry about. its the cracks that are a concern. But that is Cool doing them on a Brake Lathe I have often wondered about doing that if it was Possible now it is
In the olden days when I worked in the auto parts, I'd do it backwards at first. I'd line the bit up with the outside, and manually crank it through slowly until the surface was kinda-sorta even. Then I'd crank it all the way inside, set the bit it in some more and set it to auto. Rotors, drums, flywheels, they'd come out as smooth as glass every time.
When you machine down the fly wheel like this, does it move the mating surface further from the flywheel? (IE if it still bolts at the same width). Would this reduce the length you can use the same clutch assembly for?
Hey Eric I have a bosch 8922l and thecarriage wont travle. It has a new motors and it will travle if I turn it by hand. Any idea why it wont work unless i turn it by hand?
Nice! good to know, I have one and I'll start doing this instead of loosing the flywheel for a day to be machined at a machine shop!!! But I think that for the last pass I would put the cutting speed a the slowest, just to be sure to have a really perfect surface...
In what type of application is material removal/machining warranted over a simple brake rotor re&re..... How is it cheaper? For example a lot of after market suppliers offer brake rotors as low as $20 a piece... Please answer someone with an educated response
This is the only Flywheel/Brake lathe video on UA-cam. I have an AMMCO 4000 and searched and only found this.
Hi Eric. Try slowing down the rotation speed. This will help with both chatter and keeping the cutter cooler. This is how the machinists deal with both those problems. Thank you for taking the time to make the vids you have saved me a fortune over the years.
Keep up the well done and informative videos, you're easy to understand and you obviously do know of what you speak. I too was a mechanic for 30 years and retired about 12 years ago, mostly due to arthritis in my back after breaking it on the job, just could'nt take the pain at the end, (or before the end) of each day. Getting old sucks, don't do, I'm telling you. I have found that like most of you it's in my blood. Every night I'm out in my garage doing something else on my '88 Toyota p/u, but I've found once in a while I need to brush up on some repair that after this much time I've forgotten certain details here and there. I was glad to find Eric's videos as like I said, he seems to know his shit. And we used to turn flywheels back in the 80's at a brake shop I worked t then and you mentioned about every issues we came across do so, and resolved them the same ways we used to. Anyway, keep em coming, I'll keep watching. Later and God Bless.
I spent a few years at a Chevy dealer also ten at an International truck dealer. Yes no specs were ever given except for Cummins diesel flywheels. What I learned in both Chevy78-81 and International 81-92 was you could remove material until the bevel at the edge of the wear surface was gone, usually at the outside edge. What I used to do to save tool bit wear was first run the flywheel with a jitterbug Sanders with approx 80-100 grit paper to remove burnt on dirt ect that the parts washer wouldn't remove. The discolored spots are hardened areas that have overheated the steel or iron and caused it to become crystallized, only shallow passes with the carbide cutting bit or a grindstone will cut through. Some older brake drum cutting machines had powered grindstone attachments. Love the videos, my son got me started watching, thank you.
I bought a welder and saw Eric with Mr. Tig and loved that channel. Then many years later I bought a lathe and I see Eric and almost didn't recognize him. Looking good and very interesting project.
We had a neat little custom-built anti-chatter rig for machining flywheels back when I went through automotive in college. It was one of those pinchy metal salad tong things, with an old brake pad on one side, and a small drum brake return spring pulling the two sides together. Our brake lathe had a stud sticking out on the other side of the cutter bar that the other side of the tongs would clip onto. For anyone that's wanting to be extra-cautious, or just doing a lot of flywheels, it's a worthwhile hack! :)
+rhkips Neat idea. Thanks for the comment.
I said this to my old boss a million times. He kept saying it couldn't be done till I did one without him knowing. then we did all of them in house. Me and my big mouth lol. Great tip Eric.
Ammco makes a grinder that attaches in place of the drum bar for machining flywheels. If you have hot spots the lathe will not cut the hot spots they are too hard that’s what the grinder is for. They also make an attachment to use rather then using the twin cutter which works better when doing a stepped wheel.
Yes sir you can.. and note to self, next time after the finish cut, take your 90' grinder with a skuffy wheel on it, and with the lathe running put a uni-directional polish finish on the new surface, when the tech that set ours up and gave the introduction to brake re-surfacing schpiel, he made a believer out of all of us.... I'm always about doing the work in house if possible, and this is a great tip... Thanks man....
I'd recommend mounting it so that the portion of the flywheel that rides against the crankshaft is your flat reference, instead of the opposite side.
Absolutely
I'm a first year college student working to get my degree in autos and I operated this lathe machine last semester. I used the old brake rotors provided to play with the machine. It's simple and fun to watch the process
Eric, nice work , just a observation, keep track of how much you remove from the flywheel . some hydraulic systems only allow for .010 -.025 in material to be remove before it can be a problem. They offer shims to take up the amount removed so you can keep it close to the original specs. Also remember to make sure the fly wheel is flat all the way across. some have a raised portion that you need to take the same amount off both surfaces.
I think your tip of setting your depth of cut on the outer section is excellent. You might also try slowing the RPMs as you get closer to the outside. You are covering a lot more surface area as the diameter increases. Does your machine click onto the speed settings in notches or is it variable where you could gradually slow it a few RPMs at a time?
Doesn't the uneven cutting sound when you start machining at 2:26 mean it's not mounted straight on the spinning axle? And doesn't that in turn mean that when you finish making the surface uniform to that angle, the balance will be off once it's back on the car?
No, the uneven cutting noise is because of the uneven surface of what is being machined (the flywheel). It is either warped or worn.
I did this very thing today! I put the disc side out though, then I googled to see if anyone had done it and found you. Great minds think alike! Lol
Hey Eric, on semi flywheels, we put the flywheel/ crank bolts in the flywheel loose, on the bench and put the friction disc on the flywheel to see if the disc clears the bolts and if necessary measure the gap between the bolts and torque springs to see how much material is left to machine.
the serviceability specs for most flywheels involves a percentage based visual damage check followed by a deflection survey performed by applying a specific load (in aviation, maximum operating load) to the work surface, and measuring the deflection amount for entire circumference recording highest and lowest amount by dial indicator. The max allowed can't be exceeded by the highest amount, and the average from both being under 0.01 inches. TBH I personally haven't had any flywheel pass visual damage specs and then fail for deflection threshold. I'm not certain this even applies to Automotive though, the manuals for ground based transport only used visual damage inspection of the tempered tooth ring insuring less than 30% of teeth missing, and under 30% of the teeth having no more than 30% of contact surfaces damaged, and then a relaxed state deformation check.
This is a great idea, UNTIL you encounter hard spots. That cutting tool will glide right over them leaving a bumpy finish. The only way to remove these "hard spots" is to grind them out.
That dangly looking jacket made me nervous every time you lent in toward the flywheel spinning!
been doing this on the old classic Annco brake lathes for years, a similar set up but not nearly as nice as yours. never had a manual for a lathe, wouldn't be surprised if more of them can manage it.
always start with a fresh bit and try to wrap the flywheel or do whatever you can to minimize chatter. Great videos man, keep them coming!
I have no idea why I like these videos as I have no interest in mechanics but I watch every one. :)
+MrCods. I appreciate it!
my only concern would be getting the flywheel square to the tool travel. if the mounting surface isnt square with the face of the flywheel you can run it out of balance and do some real damage. most places would indicate the face of that part first before machining.
jameswoodsist But.... the whole point is the face isn’t flat and parallel 🤷♂️
@@DrewLSsix There are other videos showing flywheel specialists taking a lot of trouble to set the ''back' of the fllywheel's inner face that sits tight against the crankshaft,co-planar with the cutter.This set-up looks a bit open to run-out due even to dirt or burrs.I don't trust it even though he gets so pleased by the finished look.
Could you apply some cutting fluid to keep the bit cool so you dont burn it up?
+IIGrayfoxII It would make a terrible mess that is hard to clean up. It's easier to control the turning speed and the depth of cut. Eric forgot that the outside edge of the flywheel is moving faster than the inside. You can get some cooling using compressed air.
+IIGrayfoxII Not designed for that. If you do this, be sure to set the bit on the outside to avoid cutting too much.
+EricTheCarGuy There is also a lot more material on the outside part of the face of the flywheel, and more surface feet per minute. So lathe speed and tool feed should both be set to the outer part of the surface to be machined, always. Excellent result tho. Holding another object against the back side of the part you are machining is acceptable if you are careful and think it through properly. A slight film of oil on the face applied before the lathe is turning may also help in some applications. Those are just a couple tips for the future. But I must say, excellent result Eric.
+Theguywhowouldn't I started at the inside because that's how I do rotors. There's often more material there. It seems flywheels are just the opposite. Great insight. Thanks for your input.
+EricTheCarGuy If there is no wear on the face you are surfacing, then the outside has more material, always. You have been machining brake rotors for a while now and know what to expect. You have already worked out your procedures for doing them. The brake rotors you have encountered have more wear on the outside because of the more surface feet per minute, more friction on the outside of the rotor and more heat equals more wear. The outside of the rotor actually expands into the brake pad and is worn more. Again, great results.
Great job as usual, but please lose the sleeves when using any lathe.
Yeah, no kidding. I've seen too many lathe accident training videos to ever look away from someone wearing long sleeves while machining. I came to the comments just to see how many others would say something.
Ive seen long hair get grabbed. The people were very lucky to escape.
Stay gold.
If I can only keep my shirt out of my Creeper!
I'm a teacher CNC and conventional machining and the funny/sad thing is, we are not allowed to work with short sleeves anymore. A full overall is required. On a safety meeting with the lady from the insurance I questioned this and she said it was because of hot chips. I answered that I personally find hot chips on my arms better then losing an arm.
But well, rules are rules I guess. A accident will probably have to happen before they change.
Sander Vercammen That is lunacy, I'm not a machinist at all but a forklift engineer, any who, rule number one I've always been taught is when working around ANY sort of rotating machinery is no long sleeves, hair, ect..
Followed by no gloves, jewellery.
Sounds like a typical clip board warrior who 'knows best', they see a safety issue but not the real dangers as they have no clue. It's sickening.
Years ago I worked in the machine shop at a local NAPA store. I used to resurface flywheels this way. We would cut it and then make a pass or two with a grinder that mounted on the brake lathe to take care of any hot spots.
We later got a dedicated flywheel grinding machine.
I’ve machined loads of flywheels on my Harrison M390. Some are flat , some are stepped , need to remove the 3pins and skim usually with a Diamond tip, cause they have hard spots and carbide leaves raised spots, you can skim them on a surface grinder also. I have also removed lots of material on the backside of the flywheel so it spins up to revs faster (on race car flywheels). When done replace pins” if not damaged “ if they are use silver steel , job done.
Omg is a super idea, i now is not the etcg1 but is my bithday,an thanks a lot your videos help me to repair a Ford Ranger 98 and that ranger was a gift from my grandfather,i love your videos
+masterserch lolol Happy birthday!
I been a mechanic for 29 yrs and have done it many times and worked just fine
Did this too, but had problems with the cutting tip bouncing over the hot spots that were work-hardened from the slipping clutch. The hot spots were raised like welts on your skin - looking at this video, I suspect maybe we needed to get the cutting tip into a new point position for a shaper cut. Anyway, we clamped an angle grinder to the lathe arm and turned on both the grinder and the lathe to grind the flywheel. The finish was fairly rough and coarse, however, to our surprise, it worked a treat, with the clutch engaging smoothly and without shudder!
Rob S we use ceramic or diamond edged carbide tips , no raised hard spots
for a better finish slow your cutting feed down to about 3-31/2, Also while it is still on the lathe take some fine emerycloth or a 3m wheel and finish by lightly sanding it by hand or with a block, that will give you a non directional smooth finish
tried this recently with my pro cut. works well for flywheels up to about 2 liter. the bigger ones go on the surface grinder.
wear on the cutting tool is much higher than when ma hining a rotor but maybe i just need a shallower cut as the rate is not adjustable.
I tried that years ago and the brake rotors bits would not cut through any hot spots on the flywheel. I suspect that is why a flywheel grinder is a stone.
I do use my brake lathe to custom grind pistons in automatic transmissions. Works ausome to add extra clutches and get precision clearances.
Seen your video a while back finally bought an old brake lathe machine and tried putting my accord flywheel on Ammco 7000 the hole is too small for that 1' arbor.
The "flywheel machining machine" you mentioned having used before didn't operate like this, nor did it produce a finish like this.
Will this work in a pinch? Probably....somewhat. But does it make sense once you figure in the cost of your labor, the burning up of a cutter bit, and the sub-optimal result?
Great video Eric. I will try this on my Ammco brake lathe. We often don't machine flywheels because of time constraints as our shop is in rural New Zealand and we would lose a day sending it to a machine shop. I'll find an old one and have a go.
I used to do this back in the 80's with our Van Norman Brake lathe, worked OK until you had a flywheel with "hardened hotspots". There were many with the hot spots that did not work well. Flywheel grinder only for those ones. @EricTheCarGuy Have you came across this?
Rick Ede also stepped flywheels would be hard to do on a brake lathe
We use Diamond tip carbide inserts or ceramic , no problem on the hard spots.
I actually have a flywheel cutter attachment for my ammco lathe. Ammco I'd assume didn't sell many of them because it was hard to find
Makes total sense now. Never would've done it until now. A buddy was freaking out about getting his flywheel machined years ago. Should've told him to go to a Mieneke with it.
My Van norman machine has attachments for turning flywheels. sometimes the flywheel will have hard spots from excessive overheating and a lathe won't do a good job of resurfacing flywheels with hard spots. That's when a surface grinder or flywheel grinder is needed to ensure a smooth flat surface.
Also outside mass flywheels are hard to do on a brake lathe because you need to machine the wear surface and the pressure plate mounting surface by the same amount to keep the pressure on the disk the way it was designed originally.
+superrodder2002 Agreed. I've seen the exact same thing. Thanks for your input.
That flywheel out of that 5.0/T5 combo is supposed to have dowel pins. I suggest you get replacements before reinstalling the pressure plate or it can cause headaches later.
+Chad Bob Actually I'm using a new flywheel.
+EricTheCarGuy just for video purposes I'm guessing
+MEOW MEOW Not initially, I was going to use it in the car by my machinist wanted to go with a new flywheel for my build.
i think it might help to take an angle grinder with a mild abrasive disc to the flywheel after you cut it, and while its still spinning on the machine, it would remove the almost microscopic 'record' cut that the bit will make as it backs out... i know disc brakes tend to make more noise and also grab the pads a little too aggressively if they are left with a directional finish, i would assume that a clutch, being a large brake pad itself would do the same, except in this case it would cause the clutch to grab early in its biting point and make for some uncomfortable pedal feedback during the breaking in process
Eric,
If the flywheel is cast iron, you should (as you showed) machine it dry. OTOH, if it's steel you're dealing with, use a little cutting oil brushed on prior to each pass. Yes, smoke, AKA "shop fragrance", is generated, but the cutting insert will last longer.
Eli D.
+Eli Dustman If you set the bit on the outside of the flywheel, instead of the inside like I did in the video, it won't be an issue as you won't cut too much off and heat up the bit.
Did you check the runout of the mount face prior to cutting? When you started cutting, it sounded like it was touching and then not touching as the flywheel wobbled a little bit? Did it pulse after you put it in the car?
We where always shown to use sand paper to make that crosshatch on rotors, did you do that here?
If there isn't sufficient gap we have used bolts with shorter heads or ( not recommend ) machine/grind the head of the bolt a bit.
If those bits are carbide you don't need to rotate them, the belt for chatter is a good idea but you can slow down the lathe, take a smaller cut or lower your feed rate as well.
Eric having also resorted to this ill say the drum cutter arm works better than the disk cutterson bigger flywheels in my opinion just mount it and run it like a disk with the drum blade on it works great
Doesn't your machine run coolant? Still cool to watch and wish I had one.
Do the holes not hurt the blade? That's why I have strayed away from drilled or slotted rotors. Maybe it's a dumb question
oreillys have been turning flywheels on there brake lathe for me for years now, they say there not suppose to but they do it any ways, they cant turn the dual mass flywheels at all though
+Southern Mechanic You can't turn dual mass flywheels. When using a brake lathe to do this, it may be difficult to get out some hard spots. A flywheel machine with a grinding stone is the best option but a much more expensive machine, and it can only be used for flywheels. This can be used to resurface drums and rotors as well.
I have heard of companies selling dual mass flywheel rebuild kits as an alternative to machining. I don't know much about it because I hardly ever encounter a car or truck with a manual transmission of any kind.
I always used to love running the brake lathe. Also used to love grinding valves and seats for valve jobs too!
+Pat Amos Yea, that's fun too.
eric I learned the hard way you must ad a spacer ring on the other side when mounting the same amount you cut off or it will slip I know it happened to me I had to take it right back out
thanks Eric. I have always wanted to see this tried out because years ago I learned that a fly cutter is used instead of a lathe because the surface finish quality is critical for smooth clutch operation. I expected the video would have ended with a road test of the resembled clutch. How did it drive?
would lubrication avoid the heat problem with your cutter or even just cutting oil?
if only we had videos 15 years ago that was the first time I turned a flywheel to see you do it now is wonderful
no honing? like a flex-hone wheel? works wonders on resurfaced rotors!
never thought of that used to work at a machine shop, turning rotors on the lath and flywheels on a fw machine, but that's cool.
machining the flywheel would not affect the life time of the new clutch? as with the minimum amount of clutch wear, slipping might possibly happen?
another question, how can i get the minimum flywheel thickness? U have taught us that for brake discs the minimum thickness is written on the disc it self. nothing similar to the flywheel?
thanks Mr Eric the mentor.
Do a timing chain replacement on a Nissan ka2.4e Hardbody engine. There are a lot of these trucks around, I know I'm interested because I have two of these trucks and one may need the timing chain replaced.
In regards to stopping to let the tool cool off, if that's a carbide insert (which it looks like it is), you need not worry about heat. Machining at that low speed will never produce enough heat to hurt the tool. They do wear down and will eventually just shatter the tip off but it's not heat related failure. In the machining world carbide will get run at 6000+ RPM dry sometimes (no coolant) if the logistics of getting coolant to the insert are too difficult. Source: I am a machinist.
Nice Job, was that tool steel or a carbide tip, carbide runs better faster
Been a technician for 6 years and I have to say I had NO IDEA that you can machine a flywheel or that it's even a good idea.
+Barbados Joe I've turned the flywheel on every clutch job I've ever done in the last 40 years. You want a new clutch disc to have a nice uniform surface on the flywheel and your new pressure plate.
Mr Frog Question for ya. Is it more common to machine flywheels on a manuel transmission or does it not matter? I ask cause at my shop there's only 1 transmission guy and I've never seen him go near a brake lathe except for the occational gravy brake job.
Just to clarify,manual trans has a flywheel,auto trans has a flexplate.I always machine or "turn" a flywheel for a new clutch.Most techs send the flywheel to a parts store or other shop to have it turned on a lathe.If the lathe is big enough,you can turn a flywheel.Check out mrpete222 on youtube.He's a retired machine shop teacher and has 700 videos on working with metal.
+Barbados Joe It is prefer d , you do not want a uneven surface on you'r new clutch and pressure plate, that can cause it to shutter. Do it right the first time, its a bitch to do the same job twice. I do it on engines i build for customers free off charge just to save myself a head ace .
Absolutely.I would also see alot of flywheels damaged by the clutch not having any friction material left on it.I did also see some flywheels cracked between the crank bolts and center of the flywheel-time for a new flywheel.
Yep..Done it before with no issues set for drum cut..
@5:58 your left hand at your middle finger there is a hole that is "filled in" that is your depth gauge for how far you can machine it down. if you cut below that the flywheel is garbage.
Want to do this at work but the wheel I have in mind has a raised section where the pressure plate attaches. I’m not sure it can be setup to cut close to the raised portion without hitting it🤔
You can use vacuum hose joined together with a piece of brake line as vibration /silencer bands.
were you removing weight for decreased driveline mass or are you cleaning it up?
I was always taught to not let your cutting tool rub (chirp) against the part you're working on to prolong the life of your cutting edge. Also I would think you'd want to add a little cutting oil to protect your bit/cutting edge. I understand you want the flywheel clean and oil free though. Does the flywheel become rough with time? Is this something that's typical with a clutch replacement?
+Kenneth Wilkins I think for a flywheel, oil would be a bad idea. The chips coming off the flywheel look like cast iron which is usually cut with no lubricant anyway.
Cutting oil is bad on a flywheel, you want to keep it clean as possible as it is a friction surface. And yes they are cast
I'm sure this method is used in the industry but what about flywheels with specific tolerances on how much you can grind off? Isn't that the reason why a blanchard grinder is used/recommended?
You do not want the radial finish the brake drum lathe leaves. That's why the blanchard grinder is used.
That's what I thought
Wouldn't matter much. The finish is for break in and nothing else. Mine was radial cut and made no difference. I've got 10 years on it with a new clutch and the surface is still perfect.
can you lube a brake lathe cutting tip such as that one, to prevent overheating?
Not sure if a some flywheel run out is as big a deal as a front brake rotor run out. The appearance looks good , but if equipement was a questionable older lathe like many shops have, to play it safe before removing larger size brake rotor (or in this case a flywheel with a lot of labor involved) A run out check with a dial indicator on the vehicle with the high and low spots marked, and then see if the high and low spots on the rotor or flywheel mounted on the machine correspond to the same place position as when mounted on the car. By marking the high and low point locations on the rotor or flywheel before hand and just re- mounting and re-clocking of the work on your Lathe a few times to best match what you measured , you'll be surprised how much re clocking the work on machine can make .
I've also "cleaned up" a transmission basket on a lathe. I've also cut up old hub assembly's, cleaned them up on the lathe for a bolt on lathe adaptor. I.E. really big rotors with 8 to 10 inch centers. just cut up the hub until you can chuck it up in the lathe and bolt the rotor to it with the lug nuts. does this make sense? Its brilliant in my mind
Does it make the grip any different because don’t they usually cross hatch it when they resurface flywheel?
when you cut rotors you also use a stone to give it a finish surface should you or can you do the same to the flywheel?
Wow. The friction material on that flywheel... I wonder if that's the cause of the heat.
So, if you were to ever to charge for such a service, plan on them buying you bits too.
+DE “AutoBravado” Nichols Just start the bit on the outside and you will minimize the risk of burning up the bit.
EricTheCarGuy Good idea.
+EricTheCarGuy Are those inserts made of cheese? Should be able to get a carbide or HSS bit to 1000 deg F (red hot) without damaging it
The discoloring and heat marks are usually from someone slipping the clutch because they do not know how to drive a vehicle with a manual transmission properly and or a mechanical issue causing the clutch to not fully engage (improperly adjusted cable in the case of the fox this was installed in)
So would you also want to apply a cross hatch pattern like a brake rotor? I have minimal experience with fly wheels
I've always wanted to see this. About to install my T5 and new fly wheel (and clutch) today Eric!
+Pat Haugen Have fun. Sounds awesome.
Eric, Do SK swivel sockets offer any quality advantage over USA made craftsman swivel sockets? Thanks
my question is can you machine a brake rotor on a regular machine lathe?
+Rob Mckennie yes, you just need the right adapters to hold it.
Macavellic would adapters really do a better job than a faceplate, some shims, an indicator, and some tlc?
+Rob Mckennie Yes easily, if the lathe is large enough. Also the machine is called an engine lathe, not a machine lathe. Sounds odd I know, but that's the name.
+Rob Mckennie "my question is can you machine a brake rotor on a regular machine lathe?"
Anything that is "turned" can be put on a lathe so long as you can figure out a way to hold it, and the power of the motor is sufficient enough to rotate it properly. The same can be said for any piece of material in a mill. So long as you can hold it down sufficiently, and the machine is able to move to necessary positions unencumbered it can and will do the task.
The brake/flywheel lathe is just a lathe. It's purposely built to only do a few things. It could do more depending on availability of tools/inserts but primarily it's built for that and that alone. A normal lathe, be it manual or CNC can do anything a brake/flywheel purpose built lathe can do, and or can do it better. It will just cost more, and be capable of more. If your only intention is to turn rotors/drums/flywheels getting a larger setup like a bridgeport wouldn't make a lot of sense, as it would take up more room, likely a bit more costly and have a higher learning curve.
+Macavellic "yes, you just need the right adapters to hold it."
You don't necessarily need the "right" adapters to hold it, just one that will work.
+ALAPINO "No. A little time indicating on a 4-jaw should be fine (unless of course you're doing a lot of rotors, in that case a purpose built setup is only there for expediency)."
That's not entirely accurate. All you would really need is a stout enough rod, and it being threaded on one end, with a base on one side, and a cone on the other. If the rod is too long like in this case, use some spacers and tighten it down. So long as you get the rod indicated, and just for good measure indicate an edge of the plate, you are all good. From that point out, all you would have to do is loosen the nut on one end, and change it out. You could do tons of them one after the other easily. The only problem you may run into is the mass of the rod/disc/flywheel is too much for the lathe motor to handle properly.
+Theguywhowouldn't "Yes easily, if the lathe is large enough."
By large enough are you talking about the jaws to hold it? Or the power required to spin the mass of the disc/drum/flywheel? If it's the latter I would agree that could be an issue. If the former, then it doesn't matter that much as you do not need to hold the piece directly, you can use a jig/tool to hold the piece.
qballtvp I'm confident that my lathe would be able to hold a rotor fine, my thinking in asking the question was that perhaps a brake lathe can be built to be more accurate because it's only doing one very particular thing, and therefore a general purpose lathe might not be accurate enough.
thank you very much for that Eric ill be turning my fly wheel as soon as I get my engine back from the machine shop by any chance could you make a video on a Honda k series if you ever get a chance to do any heavy line work on one
+Bryan Acosta Actually machine the flywheel BEFORE you send your stuff to the machine shop. That way they can balance it properly. I've got several videos on the K series. www.ericthecarguy.com/videos
I can't remember the name but there is a spec book for flywheels, it includes other engine specs as well
Bits will overheat on cast when making shallow cuts. Most lathe and bit manufacturers recommend cutting at a moderate depth. By doing so, much of the heat is carried away from the tooling into the project material.
+Chuck Nix Set the bit on the outside instead of the inside like I said in the video and it won't be a problem.
+EricTheCarGuy Even then, making the cut more deeply, such as in one pass rather than 2 passes, will keep the bit cooler because the bit is making enough contact to transfer the heat. On shallow cuts, the tool retains more heat effectively decreasing the tool life by about 50%.
Also keep in mind that the radius of the flywheel makes the surface feet of material removal considerably different from inside to outside, I would guess that is why you torched the bit.
Best. Channel. Ever.
Nice one! Hopefully thats not unbalanced now. Anyway to check that on tyrewheel balancer? ;)
5:55 ... the moment when you find out one of your favorite tools can do more than you thought. Time to show the world!
I know this is very old video but to help with chatter you can take an all lead wheel weight and lightly hold up to the surface will help cut down noise
Is this practice fine....??? My mechanic advising me to replace my older flywheel with new one... Can i avoid it by resurfacing this way???
What's the best bits to buy in your opinion. I have an old aamco with a bunch of attachments that I bought for 200 bucks!! And i grabbed a set of tortche also. It paid for its self 100 x over.
Question, the holes where the pressure plate bolts on, dosen't that dammage the bits as they go over them? I was always tought not to turn drilled or slotted rotors for that reason.
That's called an interrupted cut. Yes it can damage bits, especially carbide. But sometimes you need to do it.
if a brake disc could fit, would it be possible to use as a flywheel?
Very cool to know! I can remember 23 years ago in shop class i used to love running the brake lathe. lol.
I have cut them on a Engine Lathe (Machinist by Trade) and also sent them out. they used to Grind them on a small Blanchard Type Grinder also sometimes the small Heat Checks on the surface after machining I would not worry about. its the cracks that are a concern. But that is Cool doing them on a Brake Lathe I have often wondered about doing that if it was Possible now it is
But can you machine a brake lathe on a flywheel??
LOL
In the olden days when I worked in the auto parts, I'd do it backwards at first. I'd line the bit up with the outside, and manually crank it through slowly until the surface was kinda-sorta even. Then I'd crank it all the way inside, set the bit it in some more and set it to auto. Rotors, drums, flywheels, they'd come out as smooth as glass every time.
Well Eric..... I have half a dozen chevy flywheels and a brake lathe.... I'm gonna have me some fun at work today.
When you machine down the fly wheel like this, does it move the mating surface further from the flywheel? (IE if it still bolts at the same width). Would this reduce the length you can use the same clutch assembly for?
+Matthew Trevett So far, it's never been an issue.
Hey Eric I have a bosch 8922l and thecarriage wont travle. It has a new motors and it will travle if I turn it by hand. Any idea why it wont work unless i turn it by hand?
Nice! good to know, I have one and I'll start doing this instead of loosing the flywheel for a day to be machined at a machine shop!!! But I think that for the last pass I would put the cutting speed a the slowest, just to be sure to have a really perfect surface...
In what type of application is material removal/machining warranted over a simple brake rotor re&re..... How is it cheaper? For example a lot of after market suppliers offer brake rotors as low as $20 a piece... Please answer someone with an educated response