Ive been in electrical for about 12 years. Ive asked several helpers/apprentices to watch your videos. Your real world examples and clarity of explaining topics is Top-notch. So thank you and keep up the good work.
In the past, I have taught construction classes at a Community College. I am not an Electrician by trade, just someone who wanted to be one but was not allowed (at the time - 1967 for a lack of a sponsor). At that time it was difficult to get into the trade. I have practiced residential electricity since 1972. These videos are a blessing. I must say you are a great instructor and I'll tell you why. Many skilled tradesmen are good at what they do (for a living) however, are not good teachers. They leave out minute details that are critical to the work only because they assume that it was something simple that anyone should know if they have any common sense. You on the other hand include everything and that is what makes you a professional. I like the part where you say you get upset with apprentices if they don't do it correctly. Wish I could have apprenticed under you. The details make all the difference between a professional and a butcher. Your video is excellent and I've learned even more than I did before. Thank you for taking the time and effort to pass on your knowledge and skill.
I have been in electronics and electrical installs for 45 years. I have never liked the multi notched strippers andNEVER use the automatic cutters. too much time to align both notches. I use a pair of Miller 101S strippers. IThe S stands for spring. I remove the spring and I hold them with my 35rd finger between the two cutter handles so I can feel the insulation being cut BEFORE the wire is scarred.With the exact same pair, I can strip up to 10awg and as small as 28 awg just depending on the sense of touch to control the cutting pressure. Many of my systems contain 120 supply and load switching, CAT-6 data, and coax or shielded audio lines. I design all kinds remote control or monitoting systems that can have severa types of wire harnessing. Great tutorial for the newcomers.
I got my first Miller 100 stripper from my work as a factory maintenance mechanic in 1975. I still have and use the same pair. I got into the electrical apprenticeship in 1978 and everone else was using rhe multi-notch type strippers. Agreed, I waist more time trying to get the wire in the right notch. Klein makes a similar stripper, bit it doesn't feel the same as the Miller. Through the years I've picked up a few Miller strippers at yard sales and flea markets as back-ups for little money.
Love listening to experienced hands talk about the trade. Always something new to be learned if you're willing to listen when an old timer is speaking. Respect!
Excellent video Stan! I'm a Klein guy through and through...I use the 11055 Klein Kurve strippers, the 1005 crimpers are my go-to for solderless terminals. I have about 6 or 7 pairs of electrician's snips and use them for all my low voltage wiring.
Great video Stan. When I moved from the UK to the US almost 20 years ago and first came across wire nuts I was scratching my head asking "you want me to do what now? Just twist them together?" but if its done properly its a solid connection, especially with the right prep and finish :) The rotation on strip leaving grooves was one of my pet peeves - spent a lot of time wiring low voltage in telco and the number of repairs simply due to that was unreal. Ray did you right with the stripping scissors - had all kinds of things happen to my linemans over the years with people 'borrowing' them (not sure how people think you can substitute a set of linemans for a 4ft break when working up some 16ga but...) but people knew not to touch the scissors *lol*
Your go-to wire strippers are my favorite type. I use a GB brand model GESP-55. Or a derivative. They are stainless, the cutter seems to last forever even with an occasional steel (oops) wire cut. They also have a grip tip that comes in real handy for use as a plier. It has holes for use as a wire forming tool and the usual screw cutter. This comes after a lot of years doing everything electrical as a mechanical contractor since 1974....yea, I'm old. For crimping I use Greenlee Catalog# KP1022D (or equivalent). The electricians field dressing on your right hand is a nice touch. :). Excellent choice for tape (33+). It's really hard to get people to use better tape. Please keep making videos to show the correct way. Hopefully even the old guys will see the light. I look forward to your videos and enjoy the job site stuff too. Ken
Enjoyed the video. Regarding using the crimper on the terminals, I always crimp the opposite side of the split. I found when crimping at the split sometimes the insulation would crack.
I was never told about loading the lugs with the breaks towards the anvil but just kind of thought that was the way to do it . Thanks for going over that part - I learned a lot watching this video thumbs up - subbed and gonna check out some more of your postings.
Great video! I used to make wiring looms and loved my job. I took pride in doing it properly and we also had to do crimping in a way that could be inspected easily.
Nice discussion about wiring Stan. I've done plenty over the years and the ziptie over the insulating tape is pretty good. Makes sense to prevent the tape unwinding. I'm going to implement that into the RV work. I notice you didn't cover the auto-stripper type I use. I use the stripper/crimper/cutter from Napa commonly called self-adjusting. They don't have pre-defined notches for wire size but rather a dullish blade and you control the amount of tension via adjusting screw. I like these as it is hard to nick the wire when adjusted properly. They work great for most wire with the exception of the type with the pulling sleeve. Colin ;-)
Thank you for making these videos. You didn't have to do this, but you took your own time, and made something that can be referenced and studied, at will. As an emerging electrical helper, just looking to get my foot in the door, I feel more confident on what I should be thinking about on the job. So thank you for taking the time to make these videos, and for taking the time to read this long comment.
I know, I know, this video is older than dirt.. But I'm just catching up on all the material on your channel. Very good work! Never seen the zip-ties used on wire-nut and taped connections, but good idea. I prefer to wrap my tape counter-clockwise since this causes the tape to wrap tighter on the connection and prevent the nut from coming off, especially with stranded wire in motor connections and in high-vibration appliances. Still, I will adopt the zip-tie method as a third source of insurance. As a former auto-tech, I'm very familiar with the solderless crimp connectors, but I generally prefer to solder and shrink wrap them with the hot-glue adhesive pre-applied inside the tube. They work well and are nearly water proof and indestructible!
The only thing I wished you'd have included was testing for rotation before making all connections to the motor coils permanent. Other than that, absolutely phenomenal video. Superb real world and practical info you've freely given to the general public. You'd make a great instructor at any reputable trade school or university.
Hey Stan Enjoyed/learned from your discussion/demonstration. I have found the automatic strippers helpful in tight locations where I can't get two hands on the wire and tool along with room to pull and of course since I don't strip wires daily I find them as a easy cheat when stripping. I agree they are not something to carry all day in your tool pouch. I wish you had some discussion on crimp connectors with heat shrink along with the uses/do/don't, also tie wrap guns and again your thoughts ATB Chuck
Stan thanks for the awesome video and instructions. Just wired up something in my backyard shed and it caught fire overnight and burned to the ground. Great video.
Like the electrcian band aides on your 2 finger tips. So right about not using solid wire on machinery. Spent halve a day trohbleshooting an injection molding machine that was shutting down. Had all #14 solid wire going to door that had at least 10 swifches/ push buttons. A solid sire broke and would make contact until a little vibration opened it up. Stranded wire is so much easier to pull thru conduit especially when pulling a large #. At my first job back in the 1970's we had a few spools of old #8 solid TW wire. Other apprentice tried pulling 4 of them on a long run with at least 300 degrees in bends.
I have no idea if you ENJOY teaching or not Stan; but your pretty damn good at it! Very, very pleasant presentation of theory intersecting reality (successfully). Thanks for sharing it; Best Regards, Sean.
Very interesting ! Although i'm not en electrician it is interesting to see how other countries wire things up Wire nuts are something i have never seen here in Australia - i think we use something called a BP connector that is an insulated connector that has a grub screw to clamp the wires together . I noticed when you were using the crimp type connectors you didn't twist the wire to tighten the strands up - something i was taught to do as it stops the individual strands from separating when you crimp and gives the lug a more solid piece to crimp on to . I have done a lot of wiring around marine environments and found that if i use something called liquid electrical tape ( yes it is just that ) i paint this onto my connection and allow to partly dry then slide some heat shrink over and shrink it in to place the liquid insulation oozes out and forms a water tight seal - careful though the liquid stuff is flammable so let it dry a little or use hot air to shrink the heat shrink tubing . Over 12 years for my boat and not one electrical problem so that stuff must work ok ! excellent video - keep'em coming !
I still have a bunch of old BP connectors (mine are brass ferrules w/ grub screw and a Bakelite cap screws over the whole connection). Spring style Wire Nuts are better in my opinion (Ideal Twisters® rock!). Copper compresses/creeps over time and screw connections will become loose leading to melted connections where the spring and the cap of a wire nut maintain some pressure. Same reason I don't twist stranded wire into crimp connectors - you'll have a crimp line pressing on a blob that will relax. When untwisted, the strands will divide up into the pockets so you get 2 crimped groups and even pressure. And, I'll never use crimp connectors on solid wire - whole lotta bad going on there. Liquid Tape is good stuff and I use it, also.
Great post, Stan. Like you I HATE poor connections. I'll chastise folks I catch using the stab-loks on devices, too. I'm okay with Romex in the house but I have paid the difference out of pocket to buy stranded THHN for commercial work. I despise pulling and boxing solid wire. The only good part of solid is faster device connections. Which brings up some things you could have mentioned during the tool segment. The small holes on the stripper for bending solid wire loops and strippers are usually gauged for either solid or stranded. Example: Cutting the jacket on stranded 12 THHN with the 12 slot on a solid gauge stripper will gouge the wire. Since you had to cover a lot of ground I forgive you :P
Hey Eddie, I actually filmed some device wiring, but it landed on the cutting room floor, I cant believe how long I actually talked about this subject, but like you say, there was a lot of ground to cover. Thanks for the view and comment.
Speaking of pet peeves, mine has got to be working on a box (like a 4-square with a mud ring) where some previous "genius" has cut the wire so only an inch or two extends beyond the box face. What are people thinking?! Always ALWAYS leave enough wire (6" typically) so that an electrician 10 or 20 years from now will say to himself "hallelujah ! the last guy here knew what he was doing". Having enough length to neatly accordion-fold wire into the box is actually much easier than cramming shorties.
Yeah...! I've done a lot of electrical stuff in my 67 years and I did 'Mfg Plant Maintenance' for some of that time...I always think of the next guy who will be doing repairs on the 4X4 boxes and other stuff...It could be me...!
Ahole local 98 electricians would pull unspliced wires tight in 1900 boxes in the hospital that I retired from. Was just great on red emergency duplex receptacles that were feed this way. Had to remove the red receptacle, cut wires and pull new wire from 1900 box to wall case every time we installed a new device. Idiots. Can't fix stupid.
Stan, Nice demonstration and explanation, as well as some useful tool recommendations. Thanks! One note: you forgot the conduit nut before you put all the wires together... ;-) For anyone who isn't already aware, running wires out through a cutout like that is a huge no-no...especially on a motor where vibration is a factor. The edge of the box cutout will saw through the wire insulation and short against the wires, and in this case connect them to the motor housing. Arcing can start fires before you get a complete failure. Along those lines, I once worked for a super-computer company with an installation at a local Navy base. The computer had a motor-generator to convert local power to what was needed, and the hookups from there to the computer were done by our installation team, but the hookup to base power was done by base electricians (some sort of union or base rule, I dunno). A few months later, we started getting system crashes. The problem was traced to power, which led to the motor-generator, and the junction box where base power came in. The base electricians had used armored cable to connect to the motor box, but they cut it a little too short, so rather than do it right and start over, they just wrapped a bunch of electrical tape around the wires where they went into the conduit connector fitting at the motor box and made it look like the armored cable was clamped properly. That obviously didn't work, and when the issue was discovered, there'd been enough arcing to eat chunks out of the cutout and burn most things in the general vicinity. BTW - the computer pulled 100Kw...it was NOT a PC. Without the freon running through it for cooling, the solder would have melted and flowed...don't ask how I know that... -- Mike B.
Hi Mike, Yes, I guess I should have pointed out that this demonstration did not show any conduit methods and running wire through a raw KO is not an approved method. Kids! Dont try this at home!
Hi, good video and learned some good practices. I would like to suggest producing some videos on installing and understanding rotary phase converters (including motor/generator). The output voltages confuse me and also explain how low and high voltage motor hookups differ in how the motor operates. You may as well dive into VFD's as well. I'm currently using a 3 hp rotary converter (American Rotary brand) to run a Southbend lathe, Bridgeport, disc/belt sander, and Sibley drill press. My converter outputs one leg @ 250 volts and each of the 2 remaining legs @ 125 volts....???? A bit confused on that, yet service rep says all good, plus all works well on the machines. By the way, only one machine can run at a time on this lower horse power converter. Thanks for reading and I appreciate your drive for perfection on your projects.
Holy cow Stan, I've been to your bash 3 times, but never knew you were an electrician. I may be a wannabe machinist, but I am a retired industrial electrician too. IBEW out of Sacramento. I'll say something to you next year. #300 for the 2017 Ha! neat
Around 9 minutes in you show stranded in a wire nut connection. I was taught to fan out the strands a little on both wires, use lineman's to twist, and then wire nut. Is that wrong or just a couple extra steps?
I was just sharing the way I was taught, while intertwining the individual strands would create more contact area, a stray strand could create a "push out" effect when tightening your wire nuts.
Hi Stan some interesting way to conect two wires, but here in germany these are a no-go. We use here conectors from Wago (series 224,243,2273,273, and most 222), you just push them in the conector and its spring loaded, and you can release your wire by twisting or on some other series to open the lever. you can find them on the wago web site (not be be understood as a advert) keep the videos running greetings from germany
17:50 the end of that second tube will also crimp the insulation of the wire to the contact with proper crimping tool. It will act as a anti-pull thingy for the insulation.
Gray can also be a ground I think its in the NEC now as well mostly used for Utility & Com company's. I have seen it used in industrial. Thanks for the info most of it I new, The wire nut thing I did not. Never seen the zip tie thing but it makes perfect scenes.
Thanks Stan! I actually learned a couple of things and I've been doing wiring for years. I would like to hear your take on wiring duplex receptacles and the like using THHN. Do you use spade terminals for each wire or another method?
Stan I know this wasn't the intent of your video, but I wish you could have taken us through the proper way to get the wire out of the Motor box, and a brief tutorial on working with the feed wiring itself. I only mention this because of the number of wiring jobs I've seen in the past where no strain relief is present and wiring is passing through a knock out unprotected. I liked this video from the stand point of reinforcing things that I need to remember and do.
❎ AT 8:10 CODE VIOLATION AND FIRE HAZARD ! !! I'm an old timer sparky and volunteer firefighter. I'm a real stickler when it comes to AL (and I also detest Federal Pacific, Zinsco and Pushmatic type anelboards & breakers) You cannot use a conventional (OR A "PURPLE" WIRE NUT) wire nut to join CA & AL, even with an oxide inhibitor such as noalox or penetrox! There is a purple colored connector that uses set screws to fasten the conductots and IS LISTED AND WORKS WELL IN THE FIELD. There is also a special connection method that uses a proprietary compression connector and trained installers who use rented tools to install these connectors . (The set screw type are only a $ buck $ or so and are relatively easy to install / the other proprietary method is much more costly __. But both are US listed for this application ) Other than that, great video... thanks for all of them, including the lock nut driver.
What is your position on twisting romex (solid) farther than the one rev? When I apprenticed in the trade most everyone (North East) believed in twisting a couple revs to insure the mechanical connection and the nut was basically just a cap on a bare connection. I dont promote twisting the insulation ridiculously but a twist or two on the insulation means the nut is just capping the connection. I have seen a lot of 20A residential connections fail because the nut was doing a lot of the work (especially when people rely on the nut to twist the solids). Another great video.
Actually Nickel's conductivity is about 4 times less than copper's. I expect that Ni is used where temperatures are high so that it won't conduct as much heat away from the hot source and damage nearby components.
Thanks for your video. But what type of motor uses nickel wire? My understanding that nickel in electrical applications is used for its resistance; for instance the common nichrome for resistance heaters. What type of motor would have nickel wires and why? Very curious
Stan, somewhere I heard that ground connetions should be made with a ring terminal, not a spade. Don't know if this is true or not. Thanks for the video. I've been doing wire connections for years and I learned somethings.
Hey Stan, I am currently wiring up a CNC Mill controller. I have 3 VFDs in it. I was wondering what kind of wire I should use between the vfd and the motors. I hear it needs to be shielded. Do you have a recommendation? I did not use shielded wire on my CNC lathe and had some serious RF noise issues! To fix it, I had to use Tec lok cable. Btw thank you for this video.
Hi Zeeshan, My first choice would be to put the VFD's in their own cabinet and run LT metallic flex to the motors. If you are unable to run to the motors in grounded conduit, this stuff is expensive, but works well, this link is to a 3 wire #10 www.walkerindustrial.com/Lutze-A2190203-006-Driveflex-A219-Series-p/A2190203-006.htm?gsn&gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwdi0vW7jjRkTfExA1L-nqGp_NvQH2MT7Rnhjon3MIqIaAqtL8P8HAQ I addition to that, run all your input wires in a shielded belden cable with the shield grounded AT ONE END ONLY.
I have a question about water proof or submersible wire connection can I sotter the wires and use my regular shrink wrap to seal the wires on a well pump the breaker keeps tripping and that is all I can think of could be causing it is the connection I used wire nuts and filled them with. Silicone but I don't think it sealed. Because breaker trips please let me know
Hello. I need some help. My house garage door was wired 20g for the door opener. But I bought a new opener that was designed to use 22g. Which I didn't know before I bought it. If you can tell me how can I get it to work. It can't take the signal when I connected it. Can I use resistors to make it work?
Nice tutorial. Have you ever used the Wago 221 or 222 series of connectors. On the shears, a buddy just turned me on to Klein 2100-7 (and that series) of shears. I've got 2500 conections to make up in #24 and #26 wire. There's just no easy way to strip that stuff.
I have a question regarding wire gages, I’m getting seen some use ready to hook up fish finders in my boat, I have seen video that says to ensure good volts going through to the fish finders use 8 gage wire, I bought some at the big box stores that are black and red coated for plastic the wires are copper strands, would this wire be ok to hook to a lead based battery used for cranking my boat motor? I have seen some with what looks like a silver wire 8 gage but not sure which is best or if I should use one over the other or not to? Any help would be appreciated thanks
8 AWG seems big, but I have never installed a fish finder, I would use marine-grade wire, the residential grade will probably give you corrosion problems down the road.
Do you not use the vibration type wire nuts for motor connections? it uses an allen key set screw type thing that locks the wire in place. you the cover it with a wire nut type thing.
I just wired up a 3phase lathe with a 2wire low volt starter , used the schematic on the starter box ,but the lathe starts when I throw the breaker , it ignores the pb start rev stop switch got any ideas how to test the switch,
Hi Stan ! Really nice and instructive video for US-standard and generel joints. I think we HAVE TO use "nuts" with a screw in them here in the EU and our boxes are water proof. Germans have a cheap and clumpsy Schuco brand and we have a very expensive LK-brand here in Denmark and the difference is around 1 for Schuco and 5 for LK ! Grounding is a total mess in the EU
The main panel is on the back side of the house, underground to a detached garage. Wires come in though the wall to the junction box, two red wire and three blue wires and a ground wire. The 3 blue wires had a wire nut on them
I need to replace a 3" section of 18g stranded copper wire. My choices are solid copper wire or, I guess, nickel stranded wire. Which one should I use?
Ive been in electrical for about 12 years. Ive asked several helpers/apprentices to watch your videos. Your real world examples and clarity of explaining topics is Top-notch. So thank you and keep up the good work.
In the past, I have taught construction classes at a Community College. I am not an Electrician by trade, just someone who wanted to be one but was not allowed (at the time - 1967 for a lack of a sponsor). At that time it was difficult to get into the trade. I have practiced residential electricity since 1972. These videos are a blessing. I must say you are a great instructor and I'll tell you why. Many skilled tradesmen are good at what they do (for a living) however, are not good teachers. They leave out minute details that are critical to the work only because they assume that it was something simple that anyone should know if they have any common sense. You on the other hand include everything and that is what makes you a professional. I like the part where you say you get upset with apprentices if they don't do it correctly. Wish I could have apprenticed under you. The details make all the difference between a professional and a butcher. Your video is excellent and I've learned even more than I did before. Thank you for taking the time and effort to pass on your knowledge and skill.
Great video! Also great to hear your quality standards. Very helpful. Thanks!
Stan,
Thanks for sharing your time and talents.
All the best. Chuck.
I have been in electronics and electrical installs for 45 years. I have never liked the multi notched strippers andNEVER use the automatic cutters. too much time to align both notches. I use a pair of Miller 101S strippers. IThe S stands for spring. I remove the spring and I hold them with my 35rd finger between the two cutter handles so I can feel the insulation being cut BEFORE the wire is scarred.With the exact same pair, I can strip up to 10awg and as small as 28 awg just depending on the sense of touch to control the cutting pressure. Many of my systems contain 120 supply and load switching, CAT-6 data, and coax or shielded audio lines. I design all kinds remote control or monitoting systems that can have severa types of wire harnessing. Great tutorial for the newcomers.
I got my first Miller 100 stripper from my work as a factory maintenance mechanic in 1975. I still have and use the same pair. I got into the electrical apprenticeship in 1978 and everone else was using rhe multi-notch type strippers. Agreed, I waist more time trying to get the wire in the right notch. Klein makes a similar stripper, bit it doesn't feel the same as the Miller. Through the years I've picked up a few Miller strippers at yard sales and flea markets as back-ups for little money.
This is top notch info that is well worth the watch. Thanks for sharing.
Great episode, thank you. You do a fantastic job with explaining the why behind the how to.
Ed
Love listening to experienced hands talk about the trade. Always something new to be learned if you're willing to listen when an old timer is speaking. Respect!
One of the best videos you have done so far. Learned a whole bunch. Thanks.
I can't help but think there’s a few electricians out there who are glad they were apprentices under you.
Excellent video Stan! I'm a Klein guy through and through...I use the 11055 Klein Kurve strippers, the 1005 crimpers are my go-to for solderless terminals. I have about 6 or 7 pairs of electrician's snips and use them for all my low voltage wiring.
Great video Stan. When I moved from the UK to the US almost 20 years ago and first came across wire nuts I was scratching my head asking "you want me to do what now? Just twist them together?" but if its done properly its a solid connection, especially with the right prep and finish :) The rotation on strip leaving grooves was one of my pet peeves - spent a lot of time wiring low voltage in telco and the number of repairs simply due to that was unreal. Ray did you right with the stripping scissors - had all kinds of things happen to my linemans over the years with people 'borrowing' them (not sure how people think you can substitute a set of linemans for a 4ft break when working up some 16ga but...) but people knew not to touch the scissors *lol*
Your go-to wire strippers are my favorite type. I use a GB brand model GESP-55. Or a derivative. They are stainless, the cutter seems to last forever even with an occasional steel (oops) wire cut. They also have a grip tip that comes in real handy for use as a plier. It has holes for use as a wire forming tool and the usual screw cutter. This comes after a lot of years doing everything electrical as a mechanical contractor since 1974....yea, I'm old. For crimping I use Greenlee Catalog# KP1022D (or equivalent). The electricians field dressing on your right hand is a nice touch. :). Excellent choice for tape (33+). It's really hard to get people to use better tape. Please keep making videos to show the correct way. Hopefully even the old guys will see the light. I look forward to your videos and enjoy the job site stuff too.
Ken
Thanks Stan, I learn something overtime I watch you. Good Stuff
Enjoyed the video. Regarding using the crimper on the terminals, I always crimp the opposite side of the split. I found when crimping at the split sometimes the insulation would crack.
I was never told about loading the lugs with the breaks towards the anvil but just kind of thought that was the way to do it .
Thanks for going over that part - I learned a lot watching this video
thumbs up - subbed and gonna check out some more of your postings.
Great video! I used to make wiring looms and loved my job. I took pride in doing it properly and we also had to do crimping in a way that could be inspected easily.
Thanks, Stan. You're videos are exceedingly helpful and always prove valuable, enjoyable, and by every definition, 'real-world'.
great video nice and calm no rushing very detailed knowledgeable keep making videos enjoyed all your other conduit bending 101 videos.
Great vid Stan. Thanks for sharing your skill.
Nice discussion about wiring Stan. I've done plenty over the years and the ziptie over the insulating tape is pretty good. Makes sense to prevent the tape unwinding. I'm going to implement that into the RV work.
I notice you didn't cover the auto-stripper type I use. I use the stripper/crimper/cutter from Napa commonly called self-adjusting. They don't have pre-defined notches for wire size but rather a dullish blade and you control the amount of tension via adjusting screw. I like these as it is hard to nick the wire when adjusted properly. They work great for most wire with the exception of the type with the pulling sleeve.
Colin ;-)
Very good, I learned a lot about how to connect wires the safe way. Thank you, Harvey
My dad showed me this when I was a kid, cept for the nickel wire...That stuff is beast! Great video!
Stan, Thanks for the refresher. Vary thorough.
Thank you for making these videos. You didn't have to do this, but you took your own time, and made something that can be referenced and studied, at will. As an emerging electrical helper, just looking to get my foot in the door, I feel more confident on what I should be thinking about on the job. So thank you for taking the time to make these videos, and for taking the time to read this long comment.
Thanks for the view and comment.
You are clear and concise in your manner of giving instructions. You make it very pleasant for the viewer. Thank you!
Hi Stan, Another great video. Just goes to show you can teach an old dog a new trick.
Thanks.
Bill from Seattle
I know, I know, this video is older than dirt.. But I'm just catching up on all the material on your channel. Very good work! Never seen the zip-ties used on wire-nut and taped connections, but good idea. I prefer to wrap my tape counter-clockwise since this causes the tape to wrap tighter on the connection and prevent the nut from coming off, especially with stranded wire in motor connections and in high-vibration appliances. Still, I will adopt the zip-tie method as a third source of insurance. As a former auto-tech, I'm very familiar with the solderless crimp connectors, but I generally prefer to solder and shrink wrap them with the hot-glue adhesive pre-applied inside the tube. They work well and are nearly water proof and indestructible!
I like how you showed a demonstration in the end very informative thank you
stan i have worked 35 years as a pipefitter with a degree in electronics.I ware the same bandaids as you do .thanks for what you do
Stan,
Superb!...next profession, teaching!
Very educational and enjoyable video.
Thanks....13
Stan...excellent video... I learned a lot. You are an excellent teacher..I can't wait to see more. best
awesome tutorial. Great tips on little things that make a BIG difference. Keep up the great vids!
Very helpful video! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Thanks Stan,
Very informative.
Steve,
this is a great presentation very informative thanks..
The only thing I wished you'd have included was testing for rotation before making all connections to the motor coils permanent. Other than that, absolutely phenomenal video. Superb real world and practical info you've freely given to the general public. You'd make a great instructor at any reputable trade school or university.
Hey Stan
Enjoyed/learned from your discussion/demonstration. I have found the automatic strippers helpful in tight locations where I can't get two hands on the wire and tool along with room to pull and of course since I don't strip wires daily I find them as a easy cheat when stripping. I agree they are not something to carry all day in your tool pouch.
I wish you had some discussion on crimp connectors with heat shrink along with the uses/do/don't, also tie wrap guns and again your thoughts
ATB
Chuck
Stan that was very good lots of good info.
Thanks Stan, like the tye wrap idea, will be using it ...
Excellent tutorial, thanks for taking time creating the video
Stan thanks for the awesome video and instructions. Just wired up something in my backyard shed and it caught fire overnight and burned to the ground. Great video.
Wow, sorry, hope this helps you straighten things out.
+Shadon HKW his video is great I reframed shed and wired it up. All good now and no blaze threatening my neighborhood and livestock
Like the electrcian band aides on your 2 finger tips. So right about not using solid wire on machinery. Spent halve a day trohbleshooting an injection molding machine that was shutting down. Had all #14 solid wire going to door that had at least 10 swifches/ push buttons. A solid sire broke and would make contact until a little vibration opened it up. Stranded wire is so much easier to pull thru conduit especially when pulling a large #. At my first job back in the 1970's we had a few spools of old #8 solid TW wire. Other apprentice tried pulling 4 of them on a long run with at least 300 degrees in bends.
I have no idea if you ENJOY teaching or not Stan; but your pretty damn good at it! Very, very pleasant presentation of theory intersecting reality (successfully). Thanks for sharing it; Best Regards, Sean.
Thank you Shadon. Very nice tutorial.
Thanks. Very good instructions.
Stranded wires start at 7:00
Hey Stan,
Great tutorial, wire connections are very important!
Thanks for sharing!
Ray
Most interesting and potentially useful thanks.
Thank you stan. Great Video.
Good show Stan---- I've never use the tie wraps but I get the purpose---- thanks
Very interesting !
Although i'm not en electrician it is interesting to see how other countries wire things up
Wire nuts are something i have never seen here in Australia - i think we use something called a BP connector that is an insulated connector that has a grub screw to clamp the wires together .
I noticed when you were using the crimp type connectors you didn't twist the wire to tighten the strands up - something i was taught to do as it stops the individual strands from separating when you crimp and gives the lug a more solid piece to crimp on to .
I have done a lot of wiring around marine environments and found that if i use something called liquid electrical tape ( yes it is just that ) i paint this onto my connection and allow to partly dry then slide some heat shrink over and shrink it in to place the liquid insulation oozes out and forms a water tight seal - careful though the liquid stuff is flammable so let it dry a little or use hot air to shrink the heat shrink tubing .
Over 12 years for my boat and not one electrical problem so that stuff must work ok !
excellent video - keep'em coming !
I still have a bunch of old BP connectors (mine are brass ferrules w/ grub screw and a Bakelite cap screws over the whole connection). Spring style Wire Nuts are better in my opinion (Ideal Twisters® rock!). Copper compresses/creeps over time and screw connections will become loose leading to melted connections where the spring and the cap of a wire nut maintain some pressure. Same reason I don't twist stranded wire into crimp connectors - you'll have a crimp line pressing on a blob that will relax. When untwisted, the strands will divide up into the pockets so you get 2 crimped groups and even pressure. And, I'll never use crimp connectors on solid wire - whole lotta bad going on there. Liquid Tape is good stuff and I use it, also.
very educational ,
thanks for the video
"Awesome", very informative instruction. Thank you!
Great post, Stan. Like you I HATE poor connections. I'll chastise folks I catch using the stab-loks on devices, too. I'm okay with Romex in the house but I have paid the difference out of pocket to buy stranded THHN for commercial work. I despise pulling and boxing solid wire. The only good part of solid is faster device connections. Which brings up some things you could have mentioned during the tool segment. The small holes on the stripper for bending solid wire loops and strippers are usually gauged for either solid or stranded. Example: Cutting the jacket on stranded 12 THHN with the 12 slot on a solid gauge stripper will gouge the wire. Since you had to cover a lot of ground I forgive you :P
Hey Eddie,
I actually filmed some device wiring, but it landed on the cutting room floor, I cant believe how long I actually talked about this subject, but like you say, there was a lot of ground to cover. Thanks for the view and comment.
Jesus Christ this is the best electrician tutorial channel on UA-cam
Thanks to share all this knowledge. You are a good guy sir. Gracias y cuidate mucho.
after almost 20 years in the trade, I must say, listen to this professional.
Speaking of pet peeves, mine has got to be working on a box (like a 4-square with a mud ring) where some previous "genius" has cut the wire so only an inch or two extends beyond the box face. What are people thinking?! Always ALWAYS leave enough wire (6" typically) so that an electrician 10 or 20 years from now will say to himself "hallelujah ! the last guy here knew what he was doing".
Having enough length to neatly accordion-fold wire into the box is actually much easier than cramming shorties.
+1 to that bud! I make my guys use the full width of their hand to measure for make up.
Yeah...! I've done a lot of electrical stuff in my 67 years and I did 'Mfg Plant Maintenance' for some of that time...I always think of the next guy who will be doing repairs on the 4X4 boxes and other stuff...It could be me...!
Ahole local 98 electricians would pull unspliced wires tight in 1900 boxes in the hospital that I retired from. Was just great on red emergency duplex receptacles that were feed this way. Had to remove the red receptacle, cut wires and pull new wire from 1900 box to wall case every time we installed a new device. Idiots. Can't fix stupid.
Stan, Nice demonstration and explanation, as well as some useful tool recommendations. Thanks!
One note: you forgot the conduit nut before you put all the wires together... ;-) For anyone who isn't already aware, running wires out through a cutout like that is a huge no-no...especially on a motor where vibration is a factor. The edge of the box cutout will saw through the wire insulation and short against the wires, and in this case connect them to the motor housing. Arcing can start fires before you get a complete failure.
Along those lines, I once worked for a super-computer company with an installation at a local Navy base. The computer had a motor-generator to convert local power to what was needed, and the hookups from there to the computer were done by our installation team, but the hookup to base power was done by base electricians (some sort of union or base rule, I dunno). A few months later, we started getting system crashes. The problem was traced to power, which led to the motor-generator, and the junction box where base power came in. The base electricians had used armored cable to connect to the motor box, but they cut it a little too short, so rather than do it right and start over, they just wrapped a bunch of electrical tape around the wires where they went into the conduit connector fitting at the motor box and made it look like the armored cable was clamped properly. That obviously didn't work, and when the issue was discovered, there'd been enough arcing to eat chunks out of the cutout and burn most things in the general vicinity. BTW - the computer pulled 100Kw...it was NOT a PC. Without the freon running through it for cooling, the solder would have melted and flowed...don't ask how I know that...
-- Mike B.
Hi Mike,
Yes, I guess I should have pointed out that this demonstration did not show any conduit methods and running wire through a raw KO is not an approved method.
Kids! Dont try this at home!
Great Video....
Hi, good video and learned some good practices. I would like to suggest producing some videos on installing and understanding rotary phase converters (including motor/generator). The output voltages confuse me and also explain how low and high voltage motor hookups differ in how the motor operates. You may as well dive into VFD's as well. I'm currently using a 3 hp rotary converter (American Rotary brand) to run a Southbend lathe, Bridgeport, disc/belt sander, and Sibley drill press. My converter outputs one leg @ 250 volts and each of the 2 remaining legs @ 125 volts....???? A bit confused on that, yet service rep says all good, plus all works well on the machines. By the way, only one machine can run at a time on this lower horse power converter. Thanks for reading and I appreciate your drive for perfection on your projects.
Holy cow Stan, I've been to your bash 3 times, but never knew you were an electrician. I may be a wannabe machinist, but I am a retired industrial electrician too. IBEW out of Sacramento. I'll say something to you next year. #300 for the 2017 Ha! neat
Hey Bill, by all means do, always love to talk volts and amps :)
Very good thank you, 40 plus years and I learned something new today....
Around 9 minutes in you show stranded in a wire nut connection. I was taught to fan out the strands a little on both wires, use lineman's to twist, and then wire nut. Is that wrong or just a couple extra steps?
I was just sharing the way I was taught, while intertwining the individual strands would create more contact area, a stray strand could create a "push out" effect when tightening your wire nuts.
Good Stuff OG...
Excellent, helped me lot. Thanks
I've always used the crimp lug on the solid side because most I have access to don't have the sleeve
Hi Stan
some interesting way to conect two wires, but here in germany these are a no-go.
We use here conectors from Wago (series 224,243,2273,273, and most 222), you just push them in the conector and its spring loaded, and you can release your wire by twisting or on some other series to open the lever. you can find them on the wago web site (not be be understood as a advert)
keep the videos running
greetings from germany
17:50 the end of that second tube will also crimp the insulation of the wire to the contact with proper crimping tool. It will act as a anti-pull thingy for the insulation.
Enjoyed it and most of all I learned something. How about wiring a magnetic motor starter, and/or making a rotary phase converter? Thanks!
Gray can also be a ground I think its in the NEC now as well mostly used for Utility & Com company's. I have seen it used in industrial. Thanks for the info most of it I new, The wire nut thing I did not. Never seen the zip tie thing but it makes perfect scenes.
You might want to check the resistivity of copper vs nickel. Copper is a better conductor, nickel handles high temperatures better.
Thanks Stan! I actually learned a couple of things and I've been doing wiring for years.
I would like to hear your take on wiring duplex receptacles and the like using THHN. Do you use spade terminals for each wire or another method?
good tutorial, thanks.
Stan, you're up on my list to ask: "Do you like spicy beef jerky?" I expect to be making another batch soon.
Hi Martel,
I like all consumables that start with "F" and end with "D" :)
Stan I know this wasn't the intent of your video, but I wish you could have taken us through the proper way to get the wire out of the Motor box, and a brief tutorial on working with the feed wiring itself. I only mention this because of the number of wiring jobs I've seen in the past where no strain relief is present and wiring is passing through a knock out unprotected. I liked this video from the stand point of reinforcing things that I need to remember and do.
I am always amazed just how differently Americans do EVERYTHING. I don't think we do a single thing the same in South Africa.
❎ AT 8:10 CODE VIOLATION AND FIRE HAZARD ! !!
I'm an old timer sparky and volunteer firefighter. I'm a real stickler when it comes to AL
(and I also detest Federal Pacific, Zinsco and Pushmatic type anelboards & breakers)
You cannot use a conventional (OR A "PURPLE" WIRE NUT) wire nut to join CA & AL, even with
an oxide inhibitor such as noalox or penetrox!
There is a purple colored connector that uses set screws to fasten the conductots and IS LISTED
AND WORKS WELL IN THE FIELD. There is also a special connection method that uses a proprietary
compression connector and trained installers who use rented tools to install these connectors .
(The set screw type are only a $ buck $ or so and are relatively easy to install / the other proprietary
method is much more costly __. But both are US listed for this application )
Other than that, great video... thanks for all of them, including the lock nut driver.
What is your position on twisting romex (solid) farther than the one rev? When I apprenticed in the trade most everyone (North East) believed in twisting a couple revs to insure the mechanical connection and the nut was basically just a cap on a bare connection. I dont promote twisting the insulation ridiculously but a twist or two on the insulation means the nut is just capping the connection. I have seen a lot of 20A residential connections fail because the nut was doing a lot of the work (especially when people rely on the nut to twist the solids).
Another great video.
When it comes to solids. I give a couple of revs (clockwise), clip the end square and nut it up.
Mark Bolton if you read the manufacturers direction, they say to include 2 twists past the wire nut. I'd say keep it up.
Actually Nickel's conductivity is about 4 times less than copper's. I expect that Ni is used where temperatures are high so that it won't conduct as much heat away from the hot source and damage nearby components.
Van Bistrow If i remember correctly, silver is an exceptional conductor, better than copper.
great tutorial
Thanks for your video. But what type of motor uses nickel wire?
My understanding that nickel in electrical applications is used for its resistance; for instance the common nichrome for resistance heaters. What type of motor would have nickel wires and why? Very curious
Wish I had this guy as a teacher
Stan, somewhere I heard that ground connetions should be made with a ring terminal, not a spade. Don't know if this is true or not.
Thanks for the video. I've been doing wire connections for years and I learned somethings.
Hey Stan, I am currently wiring up a CNC Mill controller. I have 3 VFDs in it. I was wondering what kind of wire I should use between the vfd and the motors. I hear it needs to be shielded. Do you have a recommendation? I did not use shielded wire on my CNC lathe and had some serious RF noise issues! To fix it, I had to use Tec lok cable. Btw thank you for this video.
Hi Zeeshan,
My first choice would be to put the VFD's in their own cabinet and run LT metallic flex to the motors. If you are unable to run to the motors in grounded conduit, this stuff is expensive, but works well, this link is to a 3 wire #10 www.walkerindustrial.com/Lutze-A2190203-006-Driveflex-A219-Series-p/A2190203-006.htm?gsn&gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwdi0vW7jjRkTfExA1L-nqGp_NvQH2MT7Rnhjon3MIqIaAqtL8P8HAQ
I addition to that, run all your input wires in a shielded belden cable with the shield grounded AT ONE END ONLY.
Dang ive been placing the crimper anvil opposite the split on connectors for decades 🙂
I have a question about water proof or submersible wire connection can I sotter the wires and use my regular shrink wrap to seal the wires on a well pump the breaker keeps tripping and that is all I can think of could be causing it is the connection I used wire nuts and filled them with. Silicone but I don't think it sealed. Because breaker trips please let me know
Hello. I need some help.
My house garage door was wired 20g for the door opener. But I bought a new opener that was designed to use 22g. Which I didn't know before I bought it.
If you can tell me how can I get it to work. It can't take the signal when I connected it. Can I use resistors to make it work?
Nice tutorial. Have you ever used the Wago 221 or 222 series of connectors. On the shears, a buddy just turned me on to Klein 2100-7 (and that series) of shears. I've got 2500 conections to make up in #24 and #26 wire. There's just no easy way to strip that stuff.
Used by low voltage scissor fairy IT cable jockeys.
I will look to find if there is any tutorial on the proper way to put back in the wires into the box. To be nice and clean
What do you think of the WAGO lever nut style connectors? Hearing a lot about those recently. Good practice or flavor of the year?
Lighting and low amp loads, they are pure speed and a labor saver, especialy when working overhead.
I have a question regarding wire gages, I’m getting seen some use ready to hook up fish finders in my boat, I have seen video that says to ensure good volts going through to the fish finders use 8 gage wire, I bought some at the big box stores that are black and red coated for plastic the wires are copper strands, would this wire be ok to hook to a lead based battery used for cranking my boat motor? I have seen some with what looks like a silver wire 8 gage but not sure which is best or if I should use one over the other or not to? Any help would be appreciated thanks
8 AWG seems big, but I have never installed a fish finder, I would use marine-grade wire, the residential grade will probably give you corrosion problems down the road.
Very interesting video.
Here is Connectors www.ebay.com/itm/292093599491?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Best termination video I’ve seen. On the motor, how did you know which of the four connections to use the orange nut on?
4-5-6 is typical for low volt 9 lead motors.
Do you not use the vibration type wire nuts for motor connections? it uses an allen key set screw type thing that locks the wire in place. you the cover it with a wire nut type thing.
Those are usually included with 10HP and larger motors, this was just a little 2 HP example, thanks for the view and comment.
Good stuff, Stan. Thanks for the upload...
I just wired up a 3phase lathe with a 2wire low volt starter , used the schematic on the starter box ,but the lathe starts when I throw the breaker , it ignores the pb start rev stop switch got any ideas how to test the switch,
+Danny Chavez Would need more information to trouble shoot this, wiring diagrams, starter details, etc.
Hi Stan !
Really nice and instructive video for US-standard and generel joints.
I think we HAVE TO use "nuts" with a screw in them here in the EU and our boxes are water proof.
Germans have a cheap and clumpsy Schuco brand and we have a very expensive LK-brand here in Denmark and the difference is around 1 for Schuco and 5 for LK !
Grounding is a total mess in the EU
LOL! Same here, Keld. Our electrical standard is the NEC and they change the grounding rules every cycle (4 years).
Remember when the conduit could be the ground!?
Aaron Kimmins Still is......
Cruiser Mac really? Where I am we had to pull a ground no matter what.
EMT in a dry area is ok, but a lot of times the specification will ask for a ground everywhere.
The garage junction box is in an old house. Three hard wires in one nut, unable to get them back in there, any suggestions?
Not without some more information, I like to install oversize junction boxes for this reason. Crowded boxes are dangerous.
The main panel is on the back side of the house, underground to a detached garage. Wires come in though the wall to the junction box, two red wire and three blue wires and a ground wire. The 3 blue wires had a wire nut on them
I need to replace a 3" section of 18g stranded copper wire. My choices are solid copper wire or, I guess, nickel stranded wire. Which one should I use?
R Matrix you should hire an electrician
@@dominicparson5270 And thank you for your comedic relief.