Just dropping a comment to let you know this video helped me overcome the hurdle I was having trying to figure out how to wire up my 1967 F600 dump truck instrument cluster. Thank you for the schematics and electrical nerd info!!!
VIEWERS!!!! Please note on the 1964 and 1965 Thunderbirds they use a full current or external shut meter. Ford changed this in 1966 due to fire hazards. If you look at the Ford parts manual, the amp meter is the same part number for 64 and 65 , different in 66. This is a great video!!!!!
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to figure out the gauge cluster pinout for an 83' Econoline and it seems mostly the same as this. Only thing I can't intuit from the circuits is the ammeter but that can be resolved in the vehicle
Good video, I was having trouble understanding the ammeter in a 68' Mustang wiring diagram since both ammeter wires red and yellow are hooked up to the battery positive but now see the ammeter is effectively in parallel with the shunt wire. The only time the needle would ever really deflect to a noticeable significant degree would be if the alternator failed and there was a heavy current draw off the battery with the engine running and most driver's wouldn't notice that up to the point the engine stopped running.
Just remember that if you can’t get an era period correct volt meter and my feel using the amp meter is needed, do like GM and place a fuse on both amp meter wires inline in the engine department. Many have found these and not having the correct wiring schematic are confused about their function. This is used on both trucks and cars. However, they chose to replace the amp meter with a volt meter in 1966 unless it was sold with a 6 cylinder models as entry level cheaper models. The fuse is taped outside the harness in a case and used the glass type 40 amp fuse. The alternator was a 38 amp output. Fuses are thermal devices and do not work for the amperage. However amps passing though created heat and if high enough would open but on the engine side of the bulkhead electrical connector. They were still hot with B+ even when removed but just one side. DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Thanks! I bought an original 1945 Ford pickup converted to 12v. This is helpful except the amp meter may be some different, but I can look for an internal shunt guage and go from there. It's been so long I've forgotten more than I know!
I don't why everybody keep saying these systems use 10 ohm senders because they are 5 ohm type. I've have 2 64-66 T-Birds that I put a fuel sender into and the gauges didn't read full with a full tank. I measured the resistance of the sender a the full stop, was 9-10 ohms, and would only go to 3/4 full. I bent the float arm until it measured 5 ohms at the full stop and they now indicate full with a full tank. Neither car had any excessive resistance in the circuit from the gauge to the sender, or from the sender to ground, and the CVR was operating properly. 64-66 T-Bird is also 22 gallon tank, not 20.
They say it because that is the Ford spec. I have measured some replacement fuel senders that go from 2 to 85 ohms. It is the gauge that determines the ohms required for empty and full. The high end of the range (full) is pretty inaccurate, what you need is accuracy near the empty end of the range.
Just dropping a comment to let you know this video helped me overcome the hurdle I was having trying to figure out how to wire up my 1967 F600 dump truck instrument cluster. Thank you for the schematics and electrical nerd info!!!
VIEWERS!!!! Please note on the 1964 and 1965 Thunderbirds they use a full current or external shut meter. Ford changed this in 1966 due to fire hazards. If you look at the Ford parts manual, the amp meter is the same part number for 64 and 65 , different in 66. This is a great video!!!!!
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to figure out the gauge cluster pinout for an 83' Econoline and it seems mostly the same as this. Only thing I can't intuit from the circuits is the ammeter but that can be resolved in the vehicle
Good video, I was having trouble understanding the ammeter in a 68' Mustang wiring diagram since both ammeter wires red and yellow are hooked up to the battery positive but now see the ammeter is effectively in parallel with the shunt wire. The only time the needle would ever really deflect to a noticeable significant degree would be if the alternator failed and there was a heavy current draw off the battery with the engine running and most driver's wouldn't notice that up to the point the engine stopped running.
Just remember that if you can’t get an era period correct volt meter and my feel using the amp meter is needed, do like GM and place a fuse on both amp meter wires inline in the engine department. Many have found these and not having the correct wiring schematic are confused about their function. This is used on both trucks and cars. However, they chose to replace the amp meter with a volt meter in 1966 unless it was sold with a 6 cylinder models as entry level cheaper models. The fuse is taped outside the harness in a case and used the glass type 40 amp fuse. The alternator was a 38 amp output. Fuses are thermal devices and do not work for the amperage. However amps passing though created heat and if high enough would open but on the engine side of the bulkhead electrical connector. They were still hot with B+ even when removed but just one side.
DK. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Thanks! I bought an original 1945 Ford pickup converted to 12v. This is helpful except the amp meter may be some different, but I can look for an internal shunt guage and go from there. It's been so long I've forgotten more than I know!
Thank you!
What would cause the constant voltage regulator to glow red hot 😢
I don't why everybody keep saying these systems use 10 ohm senders because they are 5 ohm type. I've have 2 64-66 T-Birds that I put a fuel sender into and the gauges didn't read full with a full tank. I measured the resistance of the sender a the full stop, was 9-10 ohms, and would only go to 3/4 full. I bent the float arm until it measured 5 ohms at the full stop and they now indicate full with a full tank. Neither car had any excessive resistance in the circuit from the gauge to the sender, or from the sender to ground, and the CVR was operating properly. 64-66 T-Bird is also 22 gallon tank, not 20.
They say it because that is the Ford spec. I have measured some replacement fuel senders that go from 2 to 85 ohms. It is the gauge that determines the ohms required for empty and full. The high end of the range (full) is pretty inaccurate, what you need is accuracy near the empty end of the range.
64-66 birds use 10 - 77 ohm senders. Bending the arm is not the correct way.
Your non-human voice is stultifying.