I found out when I was working on the 65 F100 that if you have the gauge panel out (I was changing out bulbs) that the gauges don't work properly either due to the fact that the panel grounds to the dashboard itself. Grateful I figured that out before replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced. Thanks for another great video and information.
I agree with you that the old type IVRs with the points work better than the electronic versions with a square wave output. The point versions take a few seconds to warm-up and while doing so your gauges get a little more power and come up to their operating level quicker. There is nothing worse than waiting for the oil gauge on an expensive engine to crawl up to an acceptable level.
Although the actual technical term is square wave, most of us could figure it out. Just do what you do best, and we'll figure out the rest. 😁😎 However, I am intrigued by your experience of the point-style "vibrator" regulator being better than the electronic kind. What comes to mind is components that were selected without proper consideration of operational environment, or perhaps insufficient power ratings. It's also possible that "noise" the old stuff ignores finds the new stuff to be temptingly delicate. A lot of these old fashioned electricals and electronics can tolerate severe conditions much better than new types. For example, if a nuclear bomb detonates, the EMP will fry the electronics of any modern gasoline vehicle, but engines with old style points will probably still putter on.
Both regulators put out square waves. The difference is the mechanical regulator compensates for temperature better. Kinda like the anticipator on a furnace thermostat.
Hey guys I've been trying to figure out what that little wire set up behind the voltage limiter is that plugs into the top of the voltage limiter that's got that coil of wire hook there I need to find one of those
Very helpful, I'm having problems with lights and gages not working. I have no power on either side of the 3 amp fuse in the box. Should the dash light switch or light switch be on before power goes to fuse???
What does it mean when I follow all of your steps and instead of it blinking the light is just solid on? Any idea? I would love to know you've helped me out in the past love your videos full of great information
I hope y'all can still send somebody a message or y'all can get this message so you can help me figure out it's a 1969 Mercury Cyclone that I have and I have that printed circuit I'm going to put back on it and I want to know what do I find one of those little coils of wire that goes on to the voltage limiter
I found out when I was working on the 65 F100 that if you have the gauge panel out (I was changing out bulbs) that the gauges don't work properly either due to the fact that the panel grounds to the dashboard itself. Grateful I figured that out before replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced. Thanks for another great video and information.
Fixing the gauges is the easy part. Getting to them the hard part.
I agree with you that the old type IVRs with the points work better than the electronic versions with a square wave output. The point versions take a few seconds to warm-up and while doing so your gauges get a little more power and come up to their operating level quicker. There is nothing worse than waiting for the oil gauge on an expensive engine to crawl up to an acceptable level.
It’s called a square wave. It’s how encoders work
Although the actual technical term is square wave, most of us could figure it out. Just do what you do best, and we'll figure out the rest. 😁😎
However, I am intrigued by your experience of the point-style "vibrator" regulator being better than the electronic kind. What comes to mind is components that were selected without proper consideration of operational environment, or perhaps insufficient power ratings. It's also possible that "noise" the old stuff ignores finds the new stuff to be temptingly delicate. A lot of these old fashioned electricals and electronics can tolerate severe conditions much better than new types. For example, if a nuclear bomb detonates, the EMP will fry the electronics of any modern gasoline vehicle, but engines with old style points will probably still putter on.
Thank you for the walk through
Both regulators put out square waves. The difference is the mechanical regulator compensates for temperature better. Kinda like the anticipator on a furnace thermostat.
Hey guys I've been trying to figure out what that little wire set up behind the voltage limiter is that plugs into the top of the voltage limiter that's got that coil of wire hook there I need to find one of those
Very helpful, I'm having problems with lights and gages not working. I have no power on either side of the 3 amp fuse in the box. Should the dash light switch or light switch be on before power goes to fuse???
Very cool. Thanks for the video.
Lets hope so!
Why no love for Thunderbirds? On my 62 t-bird, both my Temp and Fuel gauges are dead.
All applies.
What does it mean when I follow all of your steps and instead of it blinking the light is just solid on? Any idea? I would love to know you've helped me out in the past love your videos full of great information
I may have just answered my own question buy re-watching the other part of your video but would still love confirmation that means that it is bad
For the 1956 mode year, FoMoCo did have 12 volt gauges... kind of whacky but true.
Nice
I hope y'all can still send somebody a message or y'all can get this message so you can help me figure out it's a 1969 Mercury Cyclone that I have and I have that printed circuit I'm going to put back on it and I want to know what do I find one of those little coils of wire that goes on to the voltage limiter
Imagine cramming a boosted ford 4.9 into the falcon ranchero
It's called a "square wave."
Thanks, I was having a senior moment.