Now this is what i call a great review! I did not expect this thing to be so clever. I will receive mine in a few days, cant wait to try it out. Greetings from germany!
Thank you for detailed review and test. Using it as current limiter with 12v psu for powering up LEDs. Without this module, psu switched off due to current runaway. Now working stable with lower voltage and limited curren at 9.5v and 1.5A and not hearing up much.
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
Again, that is a silly way to design for such low margins, and since you did not design this, is not applicable to these or other over-rated generic chinese modules. Nothing you own, including the computing device you watch this on, is designed to that wasteful standard.
@@stinkycheese804 How many Degrees do you possess? Do you even have a grade 12 Diploma? How much design experience in electronics engineering do you have? Don’t judge me when you don’t know what you are talking about.
I would like to share that I have some of these XL4015 CV / CC modules (bought thru eBay) and I made an auxiliary power supply and CAR BATTERY CHARGER up to 4.0Amp continuous, using this module, a 50mm fan and an older LAPTOP power supply (19V x 4.7A = 90Watt rated). It worked very well to provide 14.4V (CV adjust). However, at more than 2.0 to 2.5A (CC limit), the Output diode, Output capacitor, and inductor heated substantially (>70°C) - measured with IR spot thermometer. I solved that using a 50mm 12V fan blowing directly into the XL4015 module and even created a fan speed control, measuring the temperature with an 10K NTC (epoxy glued) under output diode area. I have set the threshold to 55°C for High speed (10Volts) if the module is more demanded, otherwise the fan runs continuous and silently at 5Volts. It works well up to 4.0 ~ 4.5A max, but to play safe, I limit the current to 3.5 ~ 4.0A max for long term use as charging a car battery, when I see the temperature control can still turn off the ”fan blower” over the module - proving the cooling it still has thermal safety margin. I hope it helps.
As the battery gets charged, regardless if you limit the current, the battery asks for less current because the battery potential gets higher, while the batteries internal resistance remains the same.. requiring less current as the battery gets charged. If there's no current limit the battery will ask for whatever the battery can handle depending on its internal resistance, ... So for the mp1584 buck it cycles and heats up.. but when I get near 100% the converter provides us current and gives a constant charge.. shows no more cycles of heating up.. I see this on the meter.. therefore I know that it is heating up and shutting down and then heating up again charging fast.. Buck converters taught me about battery charging.. buck converters are awesome because there's plenty of sources of free voltage.. batteries, solar panels, hand crank generators, wind turbines, hydro turbines, ... The buck converter takes these voltages and lowers them for us.. absolutely awesome. Love inductors and capacitors!!
@@robojax it’s so funny I just realized last night that I must have been watching Robojax and Watthour videos for months now interchangeably without realizing they were separate accounts! 😂 I was wondering, why did you decide to change / create a whole new account though ? Your videos are the best, so thorough!
Dear Brother Greetings of the day Fabulous way to describe each and every thing with database I appreciate your efforts I am working in central university in India
Thank you for the detailed review and providing chapters! Could have a "setting output voltage" chapter, as that was what I was looking for. But ended up watching the whole thing :)
I don’t like positive buck converter the positive voltage is burn the mosfets like a resistor even with bootstrap driver I use only negative buck converter circuit I use a higher 5 amp motor with 12 amp surge and the negative buck work very cool
Very nice explanation. I bought it yesterday and follow your steps. The module works flawlessly. But one thing you missed the Li-ion, Ni-cd, Ni-mh battery charging test. Can you explain it ??
This is not a charger. This is just a step down converter. If someone want to use it as charger, it has to be monitored constantly as this will damage the battery. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
But description shows it👇👇👇 This Buck converter can be used as a normal step-down module with overcurrent protection capability for various applications. It is used as a charger for various voltage lithium batteries, batteries, nickel-cadmium nickel-hydrogen batteries (battery packs), for solar panels, wind turbines, etc. This buck converter can also be used as a high power LED driver module.🤔🤔🤔🤔
Very interesting your posts in general and this latest one is no different. You did explain very well everything, but the Efficiency equation at time 7:50 could be clarified in terms of P-out (Vout x Iout) x Efficiency, or for required Pin, as I understood from your talk. Regardless of that I’m very glad to see all your effort to share in a very practical way and check its limitations. *** (integrating here past replies in 2020): P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still required P_in = P_out / Effic., that is what I meant.
Thank you for sharing your work and comment. Even though I have written "Input Power" and "Output Power" I should have been explicit to eliminate ambiguity. I can't fix that now unless to remove it that portion or re-upload the video again.
This happens to everyone. And I just realized that I did a mistake too: P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still P_in = P_out / Effic.
@Richard, I agree with you, thanks for noticing. Furthermore, I had observed this and made a reply to Robojax about 1 year ago, clarifying this mistake from my side, when I also elaborated the equations referring to Vout and Iout. To avoid similar misalignment of posts, I edited and supplemented my original post with the intended equations.
It would be nice if you had summarized the results V/A/ efficiency rate and instead of showing every test you would stress test at maximum settings ro show design failures of the converter and ways to improve it!.....
Thank you for this video! I purchased from Eiechip on Aliexpress some boards XL4015 5A for charging a lithium battery with two resistors and the output voltage is adjustable but the output current is not following the process shown in your video @ 12:44! Which component could be defective on these boards? The same issue with all 5 boards I purchased.
I have this module. When i input 12v dc then instantly full charge LED lights up and no output voltage develops. Is my device faulty? What's the possible problem?
I bought 5 of these modules; applying 13v input; output voltage is equal, i.e. always 13v. Voltage potentiometer does nothing to change output voltage no matter how many turns - on all five modules. I would recommend to stay away from these modules as apparently they're prone to component defects.
A yellow core is often iron powder core. If it is then the XL4015 is likely a fake because an iron powder inductor is no good at 180kHz. Check the switching frequency on an oscilloscope, it is likely 50-70kHz, in which case the XL4015 is a fake.
Great video I have old Drill batterys Ni-Cd (12 volt) I will change to Li-Ion batterys .Can I use none modifications apply old DC charger 's voltage to new BMS circuit or I must add to old battery adapter, Currrent constant like in this video? (Of ourse I will add a LED for charged indicator to old Ni-Cad adapter's output section) Thank you
Hi, Yes it will charge. you just need to set maximum voltage and maximum current and charge. please see my channel on energy called WattHour youtube.com/@watthour
Thank you for your reply to my before question. Could you make a video about solder station controller project(if have with PID contoller more great) in nowadays. I want make a soldering Iron and controller with Arduino. I want make like JBC soldering station (I will buy Solder handle+Solder Pins others I will make) I sure so much hoobyst like this project also I want learn details from expert like you
Hi, I looked at page 3 of datasheet for XL4015 datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081616_XLSEMI-XL4015E1_C51661.pdf and the output SW pin and it can't get current entering that pin. so it seems safe. but I have not tested it.
Great and informative video . Can you tell me if I have to use the current part of the buck if I want to use a 7.4 lipo reduce it down to 6v for an rc transmitter . The transmitter has 4 1.5 v AA batteries in it. And if I do what do you suggest I set it at . Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏
during the current limit setting, such at 14:29 , why the input power = 30.1V*0.1A = 3W, but the output power(almost a shorted circit) = 15V*1.6A = 24W, please help me to understand what happend....
oh suddenly I understand why: when outputing as a shorted circit, the output voltage dropped vastly 'cause the shorted circit has a very low resistance to hold a voltage, so the output power = * 1.6A =
Thank you for this tutorial. My question is...can I achieve 18v and 1.7amps with this module. I have a 4s10p lithium battery pack and would like to power up a boom box stereo that takes DC 18v and 1.7 amps to power up. And if not, what would you recommend. Thanks again.
Thanks for the review! Do you happen to know what the two holes are for located next to the positive input? One is connected to the negative input, and the other appears to connect to pin 4 (VC) of the XL4015 , although that's just based on my continuity test. Any idea what that might be used for?
I made a Lab power Supply with those 2 modules: XL4015 + LCD Voltmeter 4 digits ( the good model, cause 3 digits is not the best) When I turn potentiometer to set voltage on XL4015, there is a some delay before the actual voltage is displayed on the LCD. I tried XL4015 + Ordinary Multimeter, this delay is not present, the voltage is displayed live while turning the pot. But as said XL4015 + LCD voltmeter Display combo, there is some delay, like the voltmeter is analysing the new voltage value. I would like it to be instentanatly, no delay, while I turn the pot, the voltage is display directly, without this delay. Maybe somebody encounter this, and got some idea?? Thx
your project has 2 projects. you have delay in code where LCD works. remove any delay in the loop something like delay(500) or whatever you may have. Use the code in this video ua-cam.com/video/xrIiKqvm8hQ/v-deo.html
@@robojax Thx you very much. Unfortunatly you got it wrong. It is not an arduino Project. I know the function "delay" in arduino coding. Here it is not an arduino Project. it is a simple Lab Power Supply, with XL4015 + LCD Voltmeter "DSN-VC288", as you show in your video. As this project: www.instructables.com/Mini-Variable-Power-Supply/ No arduino coding is included. The combo XL4015+ Lcd screen Voltmetterr is a lot used to make a DIY Lab Power Supply if you look around, and I connected everything according to datasheet schematic, LCD voltmeter/Ampmeter is in serie between Power Supply (XL4015) and the load device to monitor also current used. Everything fine working good, except when you turn the potentiometer, there is a very small delay before the new voltage value is shown on the LCD Screen. This is what I am trying to resolve.
Thanks again for your videos! What are your tools - like the screen on the left, some Windows software connected to RIGOL? Can you show your bench also and spend little time explaining about your tools?
You are welcome. Yes it is the software that is coming with Rigol Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ . sure I will try to make a video on my Studio-Lab in the future. I have added the link to the Thermal Camera and the electronic load in the description of video.
I believe I mentioned it. Power LED and CC LED. When the current reaches to set value, the CC LED will turn ON. I don't remember the color, I have shown it in video.
You are welcome. That is Seek Thermal Compact Imager connected to my phone www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NYWAHHM Rigol DSC3031 Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ I have added these links in the video description.
my friend, we are not worried about 6Ah or 200Ah. I have shown the voltage and current. it does not matter where you want to use it. for your 24V input see in the video if we can get 12V or 15V 1.5A. if so yes.
can i use these to charge lithium ion batteries cuz charging lithium ion has 2 phases ccv I am confused about how to make a diy 48v 20amp charger (@1c) using a 1kw dc power supply.
you can but this will over only 3A to 5A. please watch this where I've explained the voltage and current of chargers ua-cam.com/video/0mOqpCfAdy4/v-deo.html
I wanted to use this for charging my Homemade 12.6V 16AH Li-Ion Battery which can charge at 1C. Now when I connect that to a 12V 10A Power Supply, it keeps triggering the Over Current Protection of the SMPS and thus the repeated trigger significantly reduces the charge time. Would this device provide a constant 5A current to the Battery Pack? At 1C, the battery can take upto 16A for charging but can this device limit it to only 5A?
Hi, Thank you for the comment. I am trying to show the input and output without changing. Because people buy it like this and they don't want to add something to it. if do that then the title should be "how to increase the current output"
@@robojax Yes your current videos are really great, and I like that you make a review. I also buy based on your videos. But a separate video for improving or modifying them is also very good content. If you are capable of making those contents, that would be really great. You have the tools to do those and measure. Hopefully you could continue to make great reviews and also add a separate video on how to modify or improve those products. Like increasing power (adding heat sink, replacing parts with higher capacity, changing coils with thicker width, etc).
Can this be used to "charge" a battery cell (1s1p) ? I have a PSU that outputs 30V 5A, and I want to output max 4.2V and max 1.7A (datasheet of 18650 cell says charge at 1.7A max). In other words, can this adapt constant current and constant voltage, or does this module just simply cuts the voltage (as seen in your video) if my load draws more than the set current limit? Basically, can this be used to push current safely into a battery cell at specific max current? Thanks for the review.
Hello, what about the plated holes near the conectors? They are also connected to VIN and VOUT? Can I solder a pin there and solder this board to my own board?
Bro help me please I have. 48amps of lituim ion of 12.6v battery pack i set the step down at 12.6v but when it reaches at 12v it stops charging and the blue light is on why i do not understand And i use the 16v 2.5a charger
Hi Zasa, I have seen your comment on my many videos. Thank you for that. Recently UA-cam made easy for creators to see who is subscribed 🔔 and who is not, and I was surprised 😮 to see you haven't subscribed🔔 to my channel.
Review is so cool.. plz continue to do more reviews. I have 2 questions : 1. am trying to use XL4015 for 24V to 7V in a 2A load, is it need heat sink? 2. Can we conclude if the output watt is more the IC heats nd if the VIN - Vout is large the inductor heats up?
Thanks. 1-I answered that with test in the video. 2-Yes I demonstrated it. I don't remember anything abou this video. I have to watch to answer it. So you watch without skipping and I can assure you , you will get answer.
You always provide details of every chip, which I like the most 😄
Glad you like them!
Now this is what i call a great review! I did not expect this thing to be so clever. I will receive mine in a few days, cant wait to try it out. Greetings from germany!
Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you for detailed review and test. Using it as current limiter with 12v psu for powering up LEDs. Without this module, psu switched off due to current runaway. Now working stable with lower voltage and limited curren at 9.5v and 1.5A and not hearing up much.
I always use the 1/3 Amperage principle to protect the circuit from voltage and amperage drift. Plus overheating. At 5 Amps maximum rating according to the datasheets, that calculates to 1.666 amps continuous voltage and amperage output without drift. It has worked for me for 25 years without any problems. It lets me sleep at night. LOL
Again, that is a silly way to design for such low margins, and since you did not design this, is not applicable to these or other over-rated generic chinese modules. Nothing you own, including the computing device you watch this on, is designed to that wasteful standard.
@@stinkycheese804 How many Degrees do you possess? Do you even have a grade 12 Diploma? How much design experience in electronics engineering do you have? Don’t judge me when you don’t know what you are talking about.
I would like to share that I have some of these XL4015 CV / CC modules (bought thru eBay) and I made an auxiliary power supply and CAR BATTERY CHARGER up to 4.0Amp continuous, using this module, a 50mm fan and an older LAPTOP power supply (19V x 4.7A = 90Watt rated).
It worked very well to provide 14.4V (CV adjust). However, at more than 2.0 to 2.5A (CC limit), the Output diode, Output capacitor, and inductor heated substantially (>70°C) - measured with IR spot thermometer. I solved that using a 50mm 12V fan blowing directly into the XL4015 module and even created a fan speed control, measuring the temperature with an 10K NTC (epoxy glued) under output diode area. I have set the threshold to 55°C for High speed (10Volts) if the module is more demanded, otherwise the fan runs continuous and silently at 5Volts.
It works well up to 4.0 ~ 4.5A max, but to play safe, I limit the current to 3.5 ~ 4.0A max for long term use as charging a car battery, when I see the temperature control can still turn off the ”fan blower” over the module - proving the cooling it still has thermal safety margin.
I hope it helps.
Thank you for sharing.
nice share
wow , this guy rocks! if only ali express sellers could put the same description on a product page, China would quickly recover from housing crisis !!
Nice and professional, it shows technical limits of design boundries and gives the chances for improvements in design and better safe use of modules
As the battery gets charged, regardless if you limit the current, the battery asks for less current because the battery potential gets higher, while the batteries internal resistance remains the same.. requiring less current as the battery gets charged.
If there's no current limit the battery will ask for whatever the battery can handle depending on its internal resistance, ... So for the mp1584 buck it cycles and heats up.. but when I get near 100% the converter provides us current and gives a constant charge.. shows no more cycles of heating up.. I see this on the meter.. therefore I know that it is heating up and shutting down and then heating up again charging fast..
Buck converters taught me about battery charging.. buck converters are awesome because there's plenty of sources of free voltage.. batteries, solar panels, hand crank generators, wind turbines, hydro turbines, ...
The buck converter takes these voltages and lowers them for us.. absolutely awesome. Love inductors and capacitors!!
Thank you for sharing.
with small modifications, I managed to make it work at 10-15 amps, the xl4015 does not overheat, the output is very stable
Excellent video! You explained in detail and covered nearly everything
I'm now sub'd!!
Awesome, thank you!
Best thing on internet for this module.
Thank you.
Ma Sha Allah,Thanks 4 Uploading Excellent Video👍
B Blessed 🤲💓 India⚘
Good review, very detailed with all the information we need. Thanks Robojax
You are welcome. Here is my channel focused only on Power supply, chargers, battery and solar panel ua-cam.com/channels/vT_lj6oLAqq60s7VUcTczQ.html
Thank you for the measurements.
Wow the most comprehensive XL4015 review I've seen. Also I guess I really need to put a heatsink.
I am glad you liked it. yes you should put heatsink.
@@robojax But a heatsink will not help the coil, which also seems to get hot. Does this mean active cooling in needed?
Appreciate hard work and attention to details. Thank you!
I love your videos so much. 🙏
then you might like my other channel dedicated to Power, Battery etc called WattHour www.youtube.com/@watthour thanks.
@@robojax it’s so funny I just realized last night that I must have been watching Robojax and Watthour videos for months now interchangeably without realizing they were separate accounts! 😂 I was wondering, why did you decide to change / create a whole new account though ? Your videos are the best, so thorough!
Dear Brother Greetings of the day
Fabulous way to describe each and every thing with database
I appreciate your efforts
I am working in central university in India
I am glad you like it. Greetings from Canada. Ahmad
@@robojax welcome brother
Thank you for the detailed review and providing chapters!
Could have a "setting output voltage" chapter, as that was what I was looking for. But ended up watching the whole thing :)
I wish you you had provided it like 2:30 so I would added it. with over 500 videos very hard for me to watch and get the time now.
I see Ahmad I click like. Quality content!!!
Thank you very much.
I don’t like positive buck converter the positive voltage is burn the mosfets like a resistor even with bootstrap driver I use only negative buck converter circuit I use a higher 5 amp motor with 12 amp surge and the negative buck work very cool
I like this channel very much. Thank you. Your explanation is very good. Good luck sir.
The best thank you would be to subscribe and 👍 the video. it will help me a log. Thank you.
Very nice explanation. I bought it yesterday and follow your steps. The module works flawlessly. But one thing you missed the Li-ion, Ni-cd, Ni-mh battery charging test. Can you explain it ??
This is not a charger. This is just a step down converter. If someone want to use it as charger, it has to be monitored constantly as this will damage the battery. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching it. This will help me a lot.
But description shows it👇👇👇
This Buck converter can be used as a normal step-down module with overcurrent protection capability for various applications. It is used as a charger for various voltage lithium batteries, batteries, nickel-cadmium nickel-hydrogen batteries (battery packs), for solar panels, wind turbines, etc. This buck converter can also be used as a high power LED driver module.🤔🤔🤔🤔
I wanted to buy this but now im so disappointed, glad I saw your video
I am pleased.
Very interesting your posts in general and this latest one is no different. You did explain very well everything, but the Efficiency equation at time 7:50 could be clarified in terms of P-out (Vout x Iout) x Efficiency, or for required Pin, as I understood from your talk. Regardless of that I’m very glad to see all your effort to share in a very practical way and check its limitations. *** (integrating here past replies in 2020): P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still required P_in = P_out / Effic., that is what I meant.
Thank you for sharing your work and comment. Even though I have written "Input Power" and "Output Power" I should have been explicit to eliminate ambiguity. I can't fix that now unless to remove it that portion or re-upload the video again.
This happens to everyone.
And I just realized that I did a mistake too: P_out = P_in x Effic. Or P_out = (V_in x I_in) x Effic. Or still P_in = P_out / Effic.
Please subscribe to my channel and thumb up the video. It is greatly appreciated. 🔔 😊
@Richard, I agree with you, thanks for noticing. Furthermore, I had observed this and made a reply to Robojax about 1 year ago, clarifying this mistake from my side, when I also elaborated the equations referring to Vout and Iout. To avoid similar misalignment of posts, I edited and supplemented my original post with the intended equations.
Deserve million views
Does the input current fluctuates whenever you are changing the output current with constant output voltage?
It would be nice if you had summarized the results V/A/ efficiency rate and instead of showing every test you would stress test at maximum settings ro show design failures of the converter and ways to improve it!.....
Thank you for this video! I purchased from Eiechip on Aliexpress some boards XL4015 5A for charging a lithium battery with two resistors and the output voltage is adjustable but the output current is not following the process shown in your video @ 12:44! Which component could be defective on these boards? The same issue with all 5 boards I purchased.
Si lo uso con un panel solar para cargar una bateria tengo que ponerle diodo en la salida ?
I have this module. When i input 12v dc then instantly full charge LED lights up and no output voltage develops. Is my device faulty? What's the possible problem?
very exhaustive, cleared all my doubts,
good to know it was useful.
This is the way to do a review. Thank you
very useful and detailed test! thanks for your time!
assalamualaikum. love from malaysian
walaikum salaam, ❤️ from Canada.
I bought 5 of these modules; applying 13v input; output voltage is equal, i.e. always 13v. Voltage potentiometer does nothing to change output voltage no matter how many turns - on all five modules. I would recommend to stay away from these modules as apparently they're prone to component defects.
Output voltage goes zero after 1 time use with 14.28v dc adapter My 5 xl4015 module not Output voltage showing how to know what component is faulty?
Great ROBO 👍
A yellow core is often iron powder core. If it is then the XL4015 is likely a fake because an iron powder inductor is no good at 180kHz. Check the switching frequency on an oscilloscope, it is likely 50-70kHz, in which case the XL4015 is a fake.
Dramatically fantastic. Thanks
so kind of you. thanks
Excellent review. Thank you
Thanks.
Great video
I have old Drill batterys Ni-Cd (12 volt) I will change to Li-Ion batterys .Can I use none modifications apply old DC charger 's voltage to new BMS circuit or I must add to old battery adapter, Currrent constant like in this video?
(Of ourse I will add a LED for charged indicator to old Ni-Cad adapter's output section)
Thank you
Hi, Yes it will charge. you just need to set maximum voltage and maximum current and charge. please see my channel on energy called WattHour youtube.com/@watthour
36v 5A to 24 volt 3 amper tpa3116d2 mono With extra cooler and fan it will last. My option xl4015e1 is with 50 volt capacitors
Thank you for tip.
adapter 16V 4,5A to 12v how many amps it can withstand ? Will it withstand 4 amps load 12volt ?
You could show real min input. Many
sellers declare 4V for the Red board and 5 and 6V for the blues. Guess aren't real XL4015?
Thank sir best tutorial for this module!!
Only a question.
can i short output without load for set current or need a little load? Thanks
You are welcome. yes you can.
Thank you for your reply to my before question.
Could you make a video about solder station controller project(if have with PID contoller more great) in nowadays.
I want make a soldering Iron and controller with Arduino. I want make like JBC soldering station (I will buy Solder handle+Solder Pins others I will make)
I sure so much hoobyst like this project also I want learn details from expert like you
Hello!
Nice to see you.
I like your videos they're enjoyable.
Hello, nice to meet you on my channel. I am pleased you liked my tutorials and reviews.
Should I use anti-backflow diode at the output during charging the battery ?
Hi, I looked at page 3 of datasheet for XL4015 datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/1811081616_XLSEMI-XL4015E1_C51661.pdf and the output SW pin and it can't get current entering that pin. so it seems safe. but I have not tested it.
Great review! Thank you
Awesome video💞 love from Pakistan
👍 😊 ❤️
@@robojax tu zinda bashee
khoosh amadeed Pakistan door na ast..
There is a cheaper version without cc (current) pot. Pls review that. It has tall claims like short circuit protection & over current protection.
Great and informative video . Can you tell me if I have to use the current part of the buck if I want to use a 7.4 lipo reduce it down to 6v for an rc transmitter . The transmitter has 4 1.5 v AA batteries in it. And if I do what do you suggest I set it at . Your help is greatly appreciated 🙏
3 dead out of five I received. One burned up on the bench as I was grabbing my meter the smoke was released so something bad on the boards.
during the current limit setting, such at 14:29 , why the input power = 30.1V*0.1A = 3W, but the output power(almost a shorted circit) = 15V*1.6A = 24W, please help me to understand what happend....
oh suddenly I understand why: when outputing as a shorted circit, the output voltage dropped vastly 'cause the shorted circit has a very low resistance to hold a voltage, so the output power = * 1.6A =
ottimo lavoro grazie 👍👍👍
Thank you for this tutorial. My question is...can I achieve 18v and 1.7amps with this module. I have a 4s10p lithium battery pack and would like to power up a boom box stereo that takes DC 18v and 1.7 amps to power up. And if not, what would you recommend. Thanks again.
I can run it at 4A 4V out and 12v without any problems stock.
I made the video to answer these types of questions. so watch and see if it can output 4A at 4V. or 5V.
@@robojax i am not asking, i am telling.
Can i lower the input current? from 5A to 2A ?
the output is important of 2A. if showed that this module can output 2A , then yes.
cool review, thank you a lot!)
You are welcome. Thank you for not skipping the ads and keep watching them. This will help me a lot.
schematic of connections would be a good move.
just check the datasheet of XL4015. I have shown it. that is the schematic.
Module corner hole screw size please
super nice! thx
Pls tell me why are there 2 hole near the input block connecter?
What's its use?
Yo connect an LED
Very well explained, how about xl4016
Thanks for the review! Do you happen to know what the two holes are for located next to the positive input? One is connected to the negative input, and the other appears to connect to pin 4 (VC) of the XL4015 , although that's just based on my continuity test. Any idea what that might be used for?
sorry I kept this comment to reply but I did not see the module to reply. Perhaps someone else replies to you.
I made a Lab power Supply with those 2 modules: XL4015 + LCD Voltmeter 4 digits ( the good model, cause 3 digits is not the best)
When I turn potentiometer to set voltage on XL4015, there is a some delay before the actual voltage is displayed on the LCD.
I tried XL4015 + Ordinary Multimeter, this delay is not present, the voltage is displayed live while turning the pot.
But as said XL4015 + LCD voltmeter Display combo, there is some delay, like the voltmeter is analysing the new voltage value.
I would like it to be instentanatly, no delay, while I turn the pot, the voltage is display directly, without this delay.
Maybe somebody encounter this, and got some idea??
Thx
your project has 2 projects. you have delay in code where LCD works. remove any delay in the loop something like delay(500) or whatever you may have. Use the code in this video ua-cam.com/video/xrIiKqvm8hQ/v-deo.html
@@robojax Thx you very much.
Unfortunatly you got it wrong. It is not an arduino Project. I know the function "delay" in arduino coding. Here it is not an arduino Project.
it is a simple Lab Power Supply, with XL4015 + LCD Voltmeter "DSN-VC288", as you show in your video.
As this project: www.instructables.com/Mini-Variable-Power-Supply/
No arduino coding is included.
The combo XL4015+ Lcd screen Voltmetterr is a lot used to make a DIY Lab Power Supply if you look around, and I connected everything according to datasheet schematic, LCD voltmeter/Ampmeter is in serie between Power Supply (XL4015) and the load device to monitor also current used. Everything fine working good, except when you turn the potentiometer, there is a very small delay before the new voltage value is shown on the LCD Screen. This is what I am trying to resolve.
I though you are using an Arduino. Then I have so many voltmeter reviews. check them out. I can't help with the something that I have not worked on.
Good video, but what about the leds? there are 3 on the board. Greetings
👌👍
excellent review
Thanks again for your videos!
What are your tools - like the screen on the left, some Windows software connected to RIGOL? Can you show your bench also and spend little time explaining about your tools?
You are welcome. Yes it is the software that is coming with Rigol Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/ .
sure I will try to make a video on my Studio-Lab in the future.
I have added the link to the Thermal Camera and the electronic load in the description of video.
Maybe zoom out a bit so that we can see how you connect things..
I have explained all input and output. So the viewer don’t need to see anything unless the person skips the video and is lost .
Excellent testing.
Thank you! Cheers!
How do you think it will perform if you have 12v to 19v input and charge 3s lipo with 4a (or is possible to charge it to 5a?) Thanks!
Thank you for the great video. Can you please explain the functionality of the LED-s on this board? Thank you.
I believe I mentioned it. Power LED and CC LED. When the current reaches to set value, the CC LED will turn ON. I don't remember the color, I have shown it in video.
Do you know if there is a clip-on heat sink to suit the regulator chip
if I set the voltage to 4.2 and limit current to 0.5A can i charge 18650 with this?
Yes you can.
I bought this stepdown. However I don’t know what every LED shows me
What model power supply do you use and where to buy worldwide?
Hello can i use this for my DIY wind turbine generator?
what ripple will this tolerate? can you feed it rectified ac?
No. you need to have proper filter and large capacitors connected to the output of rectifier. this needs good DC voltage.
I could not get the output below 1 amp, even with the CC pot rotated counterclockwise until it clicks.
this is strange. you should be able to even set it to zero. I am not sure, it seems the components must have different value.
Thank you, nice work, I have a question regarding the mobile thermal camera is it able to capture videos?
You are welcome. That is Seek Thermal Compact Imager connected to my phone www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NYWAHHM
Rigol DSC3031 Electronic load: www.rigolna.com/products/dc-power-loads/dl3000/
I have added these links in the video description.
what is a better cheap alternative ??
Can we charge 12v 6Ah Lifepo4 battery with this module?
Input 24v 3amp adaptor and output like 14.5 with 1.5 Amp to charge battery
Is it work?
my friend, we are not worried about 6Ah or 200Ah. I have shown the voltage and current. it does not matter where you want to use it. for your 24V input see in the video if we can get 12V or 15V 1.5A. if so yes.
@@robojax thank you for your answer
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome!
Sir can we charge 12v 7.2 amps battery with this module please reply me
you can charge only if you can set the current limit. the battery gets damaged if you do not limit the current.
Very informative.
Thank you
You are welcome.
Good day sir i just want to ask where did u connect the 3 small wire the red,black and yellow?
This is very bias information and I never missed to explain it. Please watch the video fully
can i use these to charge lithium ion batteries cuz charging lithium ion has 2 phases ccv
I am confused about how to make a diy 48v 20amp charger (@1c) using a 1kw dc power supply.
you can but this will over only 3A to 5A. please watch this where I've explained the voltage and current of chargers ua-cam.com/video/0mOqpCfAdy4/v-deo.html
I wanted to use this for charging my Homemade 12.6V 16AH Li-Ion Battery which can charge at 1C. Now when I connect that to a 12V 10A Power Supply, it keeps triggering the Over Current Protection of the SMPS and thus the repeated trigger significantly reduces the charge time. Would this device provide a constant 5A current to the Battery Pack?
At 1C, the battery can take upto 16A for charging but can this device limit it to only 5A?
Hello, you should set the current limit. you can learn how to charge a battery from this video ua-cam.com/video/4-SujloLcXU/v-deo.html
Great videos. Have you tried improving the converters by adding heatsink or modifying parts? That would be another great video.
Hi, Thank you for the comment. I am trying to show the input and output without changing. Because people buy it like this and they don't want to add something to it. if do that then the title should be "how to increase the current output"
@@robojax Yes your current videos are really great, and I like that you make a review. I also buy based on your videos. But a separate video for improving or modifying them is also very good content. If you are capable of making those contents, that would be really great. You have the tools to do those and measure. Hopefully you could continue to make great reviews and also add a separate video on how to modify or improve those products. Like increasing power (adding heat sink, replacing parts with higher capacity, changing coils with thicker width, etc).
Id like to really achieve the advertised specs, say make the device really reach the 3A instead of just 2A.
Thank you for your comment. I will keep that in mind in future videos. or I will make another video for this . I will see if i get the time.
i need 5 volt 4.2 amp continiously .can this help me ??
See that test results.
Can this be used to "charge" a battery cell (1s1p) ? I have a PSU that outputs 30V 5A, and I want to output max 4.2V and max 1.7A (datasheet of 18650 cell says charge at 1.7A max). In other words, can this adapt constant current and constant voltage, or does this module just simply cuts the voltage (as seen in your video) if my load draws more than the set current limit? Basically, can this be used to push current safely into a battery cell at specific max current? Thanks for the review.
Yes that work perfect. Whit more cells in series, keep in mind a BMS will be needed tough.
Hello, what about the plated holes near the conectors?
They are also connected to VIN and VOUT? Can I solder a pin there and solder this board to my own board?
if they are labeled with - and + , yes you could solder the wires there.
what's the lowest current it gives ?
when it has CC (constant current) it can make current even zero. so any value from zero to the rated current.
Bro help me please
I have. 48amps of lituim ion of 12.6v battery pack i set the step down at 12.6v but when it reaches at 12v it stops charging and the blue light is on why i do not understand
And i use the 16v 2.5a charger
You must set the voltage at 12.6
Good review
Hi Zasa, I have seen your comment on my many videos. Thank you for that. Recently UA-cam made easy for creators to see who is subscribed 🔔 and who is not, and I was surprised 😮 to see you haven't subscribed🔔 to my channel.
Review is so cool.. plz continue to do more reviews. I have 2 questions :
1. am trying to use XL4015 for 24V to 7V in a 2A load, is it need heat sink?
2. Can we conclude if the output watt is more the IC heats nd if the VIN - Vout is large the inductor heats up?
Thanks. 1-I answered that with test in the video. 2-Yes I demonstrated it. I don't remember anything abou this video. I have to watch to answer it. So you watch without skipping and I can assure you , you will get answer.