I don't think you know how much my preparations have improved because of you 'teachings'. YOU are very valuable to us out here my friend. I thank God for you and all that you do for us. Every effort you have put forth is 'very well received' by us out here Dave. Thank you so very much for everything.
Thanks Dave, this video brought back some great memories of my youth when I took the basic trapper safety coarse. I ran a trap line all through high school and made some pretty good money back when fur prices were still high. I miss those crisp cold mornings walking my trap line before school. You just can't beat that calm quiet in the morning to clear your head and wake up. Peace and Love to you and yours Brother.
ROCK ON! So happy to find out you are doing a series on trapping! More, more & more! I hope you go thoroughly from trap preparing and each step of determining where to set and how, trapping/harvesting. We need how to clean the animals and how to cook them and prepare them for the table. Also different methods to tan the hides and use the hides from raw hide to tanned hides.
hope you bring out a full series on fur trapping during the winter,i find american fur trapping very interesting being from the uk there is alot british trappers can learn from experienced american fur trappers you are far better equipped and catered for in the states than here in the uk
@meig, Dave said in the video, Speed dip does two principle things 1. it helps the traps to blend in to the surroundings, animals don't like shiny things, cuz it scares them and 2. Speed dip protects the metal of the traps.
You usually coat the trap at the beggining of season and then again as it is needed do to wear or because is got contaminated by a scent. IE skunk etc. The Dye is a camo, the wax coating on top of the dye is a protectant. It helps with scent and protects the trap from rust. I have some 80+ year old traps on my line. SO they have probably been coated a few hundred times.
for the dye, it's both, it makes a seal and turns the trap black or dark brown, making it more natural looking. the wax is again, both. it lubricates the trap's joins to prevent rusting and make the action smoother. it also protects any exposed parts too.
Dave, another great video. I will follow this series like I do all the rest. I am going to try my hand at trapping this year for the first time. I can't wait to get to spend more time in the woods. Thanks for taking the time to post all this info.
Rather than a bucket, I would have tried using a roller pan for a paint roller to dip those traps. They even make extra large roller pans for oversized rollers that are used on commercial work, cheap and easy. Would keep the pool of liquid more shallow and allow you to dip those large flat traps.
Please don't forget us primitive trappers in your trapping season..... At least one leg of your trap line could be primitive.... And you can give a side by side comparison of both? Man I can't wait for this!!! Rock On brother!
Great stuff Dave, IDK about a trap line but take it from an old mountain man, a dozen snares and 1 330, 2 220s and 3 110 Conibears will keep the survivalist in meat for a long time! But you got to use them! You have to get out and set the traps and see what works and what does not work for you and your area! Even the best traps won't work if you don't set them! You need to be able to read sign and know when and where to set them and be able to determine what animals are in your area so that you
hey dave, Thanks for the update on the videos. I was kinda noticing you were jumping around a bit, but what your saying makes sense. Im enjoying the waters edge series, and looks like you started a cast iron cooking series too. More trapping to come, more yurt, etc etc....its all good! I know I always enjoy seeing what you have going on, and whats coming up. Keep em coming!
we used the same style stuff mixed with gasoline to spray on automotive radiators after repairing leaks. I used one of the 110's from your online store to permanently convince a ground hog to leave my mellon patch alone.
Very cool. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the series, it's bringing back memories. I haven't trapped since I was a teenager, back in the 80s. I seem to remember rusting the traps until they had a rust coating, then dying them.
@Hacker447 Dave actually mentioned it at the end of this video. It prevents rusting pretty well. And also makes the traps blend in to the environment really well. Also takes away some of the metal smell, so the animals won't be alerted to the trap.
Dave...Great video. You have no need to apologize for random videos. You post these videos to us viewers free of charge. No one should ever complain about it. You care about the common man and it shows in the videos you produce. Keep it up man!!
Looking forward to it Dave! Thank you!! And to the people who dont "agree" with the video and trapping itself, dont watch it then, simple as that, instead of berating a man whos trying to help people who share his beliefs.
Also on the bigger conibears you can use some pear cord to set them.I take a 3 foot peace of pear cord and double it and then run it through the Eye of the trap. an pull the cord to set the # 220 and bigger ones.
Dave, "In my own humble opinion", speed dip works best for water trapping. Land traps should be cleaned of all grease & oils first and then boiled, dyed (logwood type dye), & dried.
Great video! So glad to see more how to's on the old ways,helps keep it from being lost knowledge,like so many other things.Love your shows, the hubby and I never miss them!Seen alot of traps lately at flea markets and wondered if that would be a good way of aquiring a few for pest control(coyotes)?Thanks,look forward to more in the series.
Most Dept of Natural Resources throughout most states to say that this is very human. When I teach my trapping safety classes here in IL for the DNR, I purposely put my hands in leghold traps and show how they hold. I also teach them to use the proper traps for the various size animals so they do trap properly and humanly. All ethical trappers do trap this way. Dave is very correct about the conibears dispatching the animals immediately!
i can not wait! i belive traping is a HUGE part to survival and was hoping that you would do a good traping series!! hope you use moder metel traps and "home made" traps like snares and deadfalls.
Great 1st vid on trapping Dave. Looking forward to more. Judging from all of the comments, if you did what everyone is asking for, you'd need 36-hour days. Hope you're having fun with it, cuz you know what they say, "All work and no play..." Seriously, you are providing a great service and keep the "craft" alive. Bless you and yours!
Once again Thanks for another great video Dave. Good luck with that trapping school, I hope you learn a lot and maybe pass some of that knowledge on. Take care brother.
I use logwood and wax . just put some chunk of wax in the bucket while boiling them. two steps in one shot . no problem so far . whitout any smell especially important when trapping coyote and wolf. speed dip looks ok ... to each is own
Great video Dave. I haven't used the speed dip as I usually boil my traps in water and let them rust. I might give it a try one day. I can't wait to see more trapping vies, keep up the good work. PS I'm told waxing coni's makes them trigger happy and hard to set without firing. Never tried it though.
I might get into trapping and what not but I got myself into a little trouble with the visa, $500 not much for most but I make very little money and it's going to take about 6-8 weeks to get it payed off, and I have to pay that off before I can even think of spending excess money it's even getting hard to save for college. Keep the videos coming Dave we all appreciate it very much don't rush things it will only cause stress even for a man of your talents.
Once you do that we set aside vast tracks of land were we can cultivate wildlife to be harvested. We protect it through out the year to ensure there is a healthy breading population. No matter how you “legally” harvest an animal, (trap, gun, bow) once you do you become part of a conservation system that supports the growth and preservation of it and the lands that it in habits. No one puts more time into this countries natural resources than people like Dave who live off it.
did you clean the shipping oils off the traps before you died them, or does the gas in the mix take care of that? kool fingers! let us know how long it takes to wear off!!!
Leg holds do not necessarily break bones hence the term leg or foot hold. I've had #3 and #4 coils snap my fingers without as much as a tear in the skin. Off set foot holds are even better but you miss the occasional toe catch.
I have only reasontly gotten some traps to start trapping. Why not just paint them to prevent rust rather than waxing? Here, it gets hot enough out side in the summer to melt the wax off once you have put them out.
Ya take it from a guy who has traps set off on his hand a few times. Foot holds hurt and on a cold day when your wet an your hands are chilled to the bone, when one smacks you and it feels like the pain from it will never go away. It hurts for awhile and can leave a (purple) mark, but I have never broken any of my bones from setting one off accidentally.
Nice one Dave - is the 'gas' already in with your dye or do you add it yourself to dilute? If you add it yourself, see if it's safe to use alcohol instead (ethanol) - if you know somebody with a still, get some pure alcohol charcoal filtered a few times to the highest proof they can provide. Gasoline has other products in it that may leave some residuals that an animal may detect. Anything that increases your chances a few percent is worth it IMHO.
We use to boil our traps in water with Walnut hulls & husks. I'm not sure about using a strong scented petroleum. It seems that a gas smell would linger for a long time.
@wildernessoutfitters Great work Dave. Curious what websites you are using for buying your supplies. I have used fntpost and like their stuff. Also, never understood the negative comments when trapping was in the title. If you don't like it, don't watch. Pretty simple. Good luck at your school. Sounds fun.
always good information, thank you for putting this stuff out there for free..im sure you are always busy, but somehow still find time to make vids for all of us ...as always you are awesome dave!!
Interesting video. Can't wait for more tipi and yurt videos. Do you plan to shoot any hunting footage in the fall? Would love to see that. And more fishing too. Thanks.
I have a family member that's big into trapping. Catches up to eighty bobcats per year. You can find his dvd by searching for Mike Bobcat Bailey. You two should make a video together!
Wd40 removes it nicely followed by gojo hand cleaner , need to degrease the traps first light rust, Coleman fuel gives better results as the ethanol works against the dye
you also do it whenever the traps need it, some people do it every year while others leave traps for 5 years without it. it's all preference, amount of use and environment.
so i am confused are you applying dye to protect them from the elements so they dont rust or to camouflage them? If i buy a few conibears from your site are they already pre dyed and waxed? love the trapper series, and try to bring back more of the medicinal plants i think the last one was cattails and wow learned a ton!! thanks for reading Dave -Rob
is there a way that you can make coilsprings easier to set because its hard for me to set them will dying and waxing make them easier to set or not so much
I always liked his comment: You may not always be able to tell what animal left the sign but a 330 and a few 220s will solve the mystery! Meaning that the larger traps will trap just a out anything.....
I gotta ask. I've heard you mention dirt hole sets & "cubby sets" several times, and I was hesitant to show my ignorance, but what are they and what are their purpose? I've been curious since the first time you mentioned it in a video years ago. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge.
Genesis 1:26, Leviticus 11, Deuteronomy 14: 3-21, Luke 5. Some primitive methods are illegal in some areas. While it may/may not be humane, the subject matter that is always being taught is about survival. Better to learn a skill and not need/use it, than need a skill and not know it. Thank you for your videos, and keep up the good work. =)
Is the dye for camouflage or is it a protectant? Is the wax more to lubracate or a protectant? How many times will you have to dye the traps in the life time of the trap?
Great videos Dave! I have a question in the furture at any time could you show us how to tan a deer hide like naturally with no produces form walmart like how the indians used to make blakets or clothing? i looked through your videos and you said something about brian tanning for a second in one. and im curios how do you make a water container out of rawhid? of a deer skin that you methoin in your salting deer skin video. Thanks Doug
Great stuff!! I've always been interested in trapping and never had anyone who could teach me anything about how to do it at all. Thanks Dave. Oh, BTW, most Ingles and Walmart bakeries will give you 2.5 gal and 5 gal "Harveys" for free, but you gotta ask.
Modern leg hold traps do not have off-set teeth that inflict pain. Once an animal's leg is caught the trap it cuts off the circulation to the leg and it goes numb, it's far from inhumane. Just check your traps often ...
Dave I know in a previous video you said you want to dispatch the animal in the most humane and quickest way possible. With that being said how does that work with the leg holds? Would you be checking them more often? Thanks for your input.
I do wax the water traps but leave my land traps dry. I know that if I do wax them, they would trigger a lot quicker but I dont. Thats just my own personal preference. Two traps that I refuse to wax are the 280 & 330 coni. I feel that they become too unsafe. I would hate for one to go off on my hand or wrist and shatter some bones!
Yes, traps can be cruel, but you can easily cause suffering with a missed bullet or arrow as well. Suffering or not, my survival comes first, and traps are a great way to get food. I don't trap myself, but I have before, and if I'm in a situation where I really need food, I wouldn't hesitate to.
Foot holds are not inhumane if you use the right size trap for the right game you will get a clean catch right across the paw no damage done to the leg or bones...hardly a mark in most cases. Even if you do catch an animal high on the leg it will not break bones, you can snap your fingers in footholds which I have done many a time and my fingers are fine. They also make foot holds with rubber jaws which are the most humane trap they put less injuries to the animal than a have-a-heart traps.
I have never trapped. I was wondering, do you wax to keep the traps from the weather or is there some other reason for it? I want to learn about the process so I can do it in the future.
Some traps kill quickly. Snares sometimes break the neck (like a noose) or it closes off the arteries & the animal passes out in a few seconds, then dies. Deadfalls are usually a bunch of times the animal's weight & either crushes them or lands on the head or neck. I agree, that some traps are inhumane, but trapping isn't totally that style.
All righty. Thank you very much. I hadn't known about this sort of thing, as I'm admittedly, more than a little green insofar as trapping is concerned. Thanks, again :) .
Damn Dave you died your hands pretty good buddy lol, good thing you carry a sail needle in your knife sheath for them pants, great video glad your kickin lots of bids out lately, when are journals of the tee-pee gonna be startin I love the yurt series!!!
So Dave, let me understand, are you now saying for sustainability and survibability, and for procuring food, that it is better that one should NOT use snares, but instead one should rely solely on traps such as the 110/220s? And how many of each per person?
If you are short of money and you need to blacken your traps . use grease wood .I use it all the time it blackens your traps and takes the Ironand man smell off the traps.
Hacker447 Reason for Dying/Waxing the Traps is that it darkens them down making them eisier to camoflage, and less conspicuous to Quarry, animals aren't stupid if it looks like it doesn't fit in with the surroundings they will give it a wide berth, no amount of leaves,twigs or bark can cover the unatural glare of bare metal Waxing them incraeses their weather resistance, look after your tools and they will look after you,
For a first timer, would it be better to buy all new traps or buy used ones that may need a little TLC. I've been looking at the Duke long spring traps are they worth the money to get?
My opinion is that leg hold traps need waxing but never wax conibears. It's not needed and makes them unsafe to use... Just my two cents... Best of luck bro. I can't wait for this instructional series. Trapping has been called the lazy mans hunting method. The truth is that trapping is the most effective method to harvest fur bearers and calorie savings available to the survivor in America today! Bar none!
Amos 3:5-6 5 Does a bird swoop down to a trap on the ground when no bait is there? Does a trap spring up from the ground if it has not caught anything? 6 When a trumpet sounds in a city, do not the people tremble? When disaster comes to a city, has not the Lord caused it?
I do have to agree with you there, since I am an animal lover and would never want harm to come upon an animal willingly. However, in a survival situation, where it is life or death, then I believe it is more justified as a last resort. Trapping for fur or a business, however, I think is completely unnecessarily inhumane and should be illegal (if not already).
Genesis 9:3 Every moving thing that lives shall be food for you. And as I gave you the green plants, I give you everything. acts 10:13 And there came a voice to him: “Rise, Peter; kill and eat.” He doesn’t say how. There are many more passages like these.
Mouse traps rarely kill quickly. They usually hit in thr lower back. Probably one of the cruelest traps around. Just behind glue pads. Modern trappers use very humane methods. Often heavely modifying equipment to help insure it. The foothold trap was used to catch the wolves in Canada that were planted in the US. Not the Mention Beaver and Otters in that were relocated in the US. the NAIA (National animal interest alliance. considers the Foothold trap more humane than a cage trap.
I don't think you know how much my preparations have improved because of you 'teachings'. YOU are very valuable to us out here my friend. I thank God for you and all that you do for us. Every effort you have put forth is 'very well received' by us out here Dave. Thank you so very much for everything.
Thanks Dave, this video brought back some great memories of my youth when I took the basic trapper safety coarse. I ran a trap line all through high school and made some pretty good money back when fur prices were still high. I miss those crisp cold mornings walking my trap line before school. You just can't beat that calm quiet in the morning to clear your head and wake up.
Peace and Love to you and yours Brother.
ROCK ON! So happy to find out you are doing a series on trapping! More, more & more! I hope you go thoroughly from trap preparing and each step of determining where to set and how, trapping/harvesting. We need how to clean the animals and how to cook them and prepare them for the table. Also different methods to tan the hides and use the hides from raw hide to tanned hides.
hope you bring out a full series on fur trapping during the winter,i find american fur trapping very interesting being from the uk there is alot british trappers can learn from experienced american fur trappers you are far better equipped and catered for in the states than here in the uk
@meig,
Dave said in the video,
Speed dip does two principle things 1. it helps the traps to blend in to the surroundings, animals don't like shiny things, cuz it scares them and
2. Speed dip protects the metal of the traps.
You usually coat the trap at the beggining of season and then again as it is needed do to wear or because is got contaminated by a scent. IE skunk etc. The Dye is a camo, the wax coating on top of the dye is a protectant. It helps with scent and protects the trap from rust. I have some 80+ year old traps on my line. SO they have probably been coated a few hundred times.
for the dye, it's both, it makes a seal and turns the trap black or dark brown, making it more natural looking. the wax is again, both. it lubricates the trap's joins to prevent rusting and make the action smoother. it also protects any exposed parts too.
Thank you Dave. My nine year old daughter loves your vids on dressing the possum and rabbit. I need to dye my conibears now.
Dave, another great video. I will follow this series like I do all the rest. I am going to try my hand at trapping this year for the first time. I can't wait to get to spend more time in the woods. Thanks for taking the time to post all this info.
I can't wait to see the winter trapping series you mentioned.
I like how you don't have to heat the speed dip up to dye the traps. Can't wait for the trapping series!
Rather than a bucket, I would have tried using a roller pan for a paint roller to dip those traps. They even make extra large roller pans for oversized rollers that are used on commercial work, cheap and easy. Would keep the pool of liquid more shallow and allow you to dip those large flat traps.
Please don't forget us primitive trappers in your trapping season..... At least one leg of your trap line could be primitive.... And you can give a side by side comparison of both?
Man I can't wait for this!!! Rock On brother!
Great stuff Dave,
IDK about a trap line but take it from an old mountain man, a dozen snares and 1 330, 2 220s and 3 110 Conibears will keep the survivalist in meat for a long time!
But you got to use them! You have to get out and set the traps and see what works and what does not work for you and your area! Even the best traps won't work if you don't set them! You need to be able to read sign and know when and where to set them and be able to determine what animals are in your area so that you
hey dave, Thanks for the update on the videos. I was kinda noticing you were jumping around a bit, but what your saying makes sense. Im enjoying the waters edge series, and looks like you started a cast iron cooking series too. More trapping to come, more yurt, etc etc....its all good! I know I always enjoy seeing what you have going on, and whats coming up. Keep em coming!
we used the same style stuff mixed with gasoline to spray on automotive radiators after repairing leaks. I used one of the 110's from your online store to permanently convince a ground hog to leave my mellon patch alone.
Very cool. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the series, it's bringing back memories. I haven't trapped since I was a teenager, back in the 80s. I seem to remember rusting the traps until they had a rust coating, then dying them.
@Hacker447 Dave actually mentioned it at the end of this video. It prevents rusting pretty well. And also makes the traps blend in to the environment really well. Also takes away some of the metal smell, so the animals won't be alerted to the trap.
Dave...Great video. You have no need to apologize for random videos. You post these videos to us viewers free of charge. No one should ever complain about it. You care about the common man and it shows in the videos you produce. Keep it up man!!
your a scholar and a gentleman Mr.Cantebury...another awesome series,thanks for all of them.
Looking forward to it Dave! Thank you!! And to the people who dont "agree" with the video and trapping itself, dont watch it then, simple as that, instead of berating a man whos trying to help people who share his beliefs.
Also on the bigger conibears you can use some pear cord to set them.I take a 3 foot peace of pear cord and double it and then run it through the Eye of the trap. an pull the cord to set the # 220 and bigger ones.
Dave,
"In my own humble opinion", speed dip works best for water trapping. Land traps should be cleaned of all grease & oils first and then boiled, dyed (logwood type dye), & dried.
Great video! So glad to see more how to's on the old ways,helps keep it from being lost knowledge,like so many other things.Love your shows, the hubby and I never miss them!Seen alot of traps lately at flea markets and wondered if that would be a good way of aquiring a few for pest control(coyotes)?Thanks,look forward to more in the series.
Most Dept of Natural Resources throughout most states to say that this is very human. When I teach my trapping safety classes here in IL for the DNR, I purposely put my hands in leghold traps and show how they hold. I also teach them to use the proper traps for the various size animals so they do trap properly and humanly. All ethical trappers do trap this way. Dave is very correct about the conibears dispatching the animals immediately!
i can not wait! i belive traping is a HUGE part to survival and was hoping that you would do a good traping series!! hope you use moder metel traps and "home made" traps like snares and deadfalls.
Great 1st vid on trapping Dave. Looking forward to more. Judging from all of the comments, if you did what everyone is asking for, you'd need 36-hour days. Hope you're having fun with it, cuz you know what they say, "All work and no play..." Seriously, you are providing a great service and keep the "craft" alive. Bless you and yours!
Once again Thanks for another great video Dave. Good luck with that trapping school, I hope you learn a lot and maybe pass some of that knowledge on. Take care brother.
I use logwood and wax .
just put some chunk of wax in the bucket while boiling them.
two steps in one shot . no problem so far . whitout any smell especially important when trapping coyote and wolf.
speed dip looks ok ... to each is own
i wish we had the kind of wilderness and hunting in scotland, love your vids Dave keep em comin :)
Dave found a trick to the wind noise, cloth tape on the mic hole. love your vids.
oh snap, i just realized this is the guy from dual survival, thanks for the vids dave, great channel
Disposible gloves are pretty useful.. lol
Looking forward to seeing those videos. Should be pretty intesting.
Thanks
Great video Dave. I haven't used the speed dip as I usually boil my traps in water and let them rust. I might give it a try one day. I can't wait to see more trapping vies, keep up the good work. PS I'm told waxing coni's makes them trigger happy and hard to set without firing. Never tried it though.
I might get into trapping and what not but I got myself into a little trouble with the visa, $500 not much for most but I make very little money and it's going to take about 6-8 weeks to get it payed off, and I have to pay that off before I can even think of spending excess money it's even getting hard to save for college. Keep the videos coming Dave we all appreciate it very much don't rush things it will only cause stress even for a man of your talents.
Once you do that we set aside vast tracks of land were we can cultivate wildlife to be harvested. We protect it through out the year to ensure there is a healthy breading population. No matter how you “legally” harvest an animal, (trap, gun, bow) once you do you become part of a conservation system that supports the growth and preservation of it and the lands that it in habits. No one puts more time into this countries natural resources than people like Dave who live off it.
did you clean the shipping oils off the traps before you died them, or does the gas in the mix take care of that? kool fingers! let us know how long it takes to wear off!!!
Really looking forward to the full trapping series of videos. I will be watching for them.
Leg holds do not necessarily break bones hence the term leg or foot hold. I've had #3 and #4 coils snap my fingers without as much as a tear in the skin. Off set foot holds are even better but you miss the occasional toe catch.
I have only reasontly gotten some traps to start trapping. Why not just paint them to prevent rust rather than waxing?
Here, it gets hot enough out side in the summer to melt the wax off once you have put them out.
Ya take it from a guy who has traps set off on his hand a few times. Foot holds hurt and on a cold day when your wet an your hands are chilled to the bone, when one smacks you and it feels like the pain from it will never go away. It hurts for awhile and can leave a (purple) mark, but I have never broken any of my bones from setting one off accidentally.
I appreciate all of your videos Dave.
What I would like to know is why you have to dye your traps and why you have to wax them.
Nice one Dave - is the 'gas' already in with your dye or do you add it yourself to dilute? If you add it yourself, see if it's safe to use alcohol instead (ethanol) - if you know somebody with a still, get some pure alcohol charcoal filtered a few times to the highest proof they can provide. Gasoline has other products in it that may leave some residuals that an animal may detect. Anything that increases your chances a few percent is worth it IMHO.
We use to boil our traps in water with Walnut hulls & husks. I'm not sure about using a strong scented petroleum. It seems that a gas smell would linger for a long time.
@wildernessoutfitters Great work Dave. Curious what websites you are using for buying your supplies. I have used fntpost and like their stuff. Also, never understood the negative comments when trapping was in the title. If you don't like it, don't watch. Pretty simple. Good luck at your school. Sounds fun.
always good information, thank you for putting this stuff out there for free..im sure you are always busy, but somehow still find time to make vids for all of us ...as always you are awesome dave!!
Interesting video. Can't wait for more tipi and yurt videos. Do you plan to shoot any hunting footage in the fall? Would love to see that. And more fishing too. Thanks.
I have a family member that's big into trapping. Catches up to eighty bobcats per year. You can find his dvd by searching for Mike Bobcat Bailey. You two should make a video together!
Looks like a deep tray would work better to dip those in. Like an Engine Oil drip tray, those can be bought pretty cheap nowdays.
Looking forward to this series of vids thanks for sharing all the knowledge
Wd40 removes it nicely followed by gojo hand cleaner , need to degrease the traps first light rust, Coleman fuel gives better results as the ethanol works against the dye
you also do it whenever the traps need it, some people do it every year while others leave traps for 5 years without it. it's all preference, amount of use and environment.
so i am confused are you applying dye to protect them from the elements so they dont rust or to camouflage them? If i buy a few conibears from your site are they already pre dyed and waxed? love the trapper series, and try to bring back more of the medicinal plants i think the last one was cattails and wow learned a ton!! thanks for reading Dave -Rob
congrats on the 500 vids dave. looking forward to seeing what else you have in store for us!!! keep up the good work
is there a way that you can make coilsprings easier to set because its hard for me to set them will dying and waxing make them easier to set or not so much
Preserves the life of the trap. If using the trap in a water set it can help camouflage it and help prevent trap theft.
I always liked his comment:
You may not always be able to tell what animal left the sign but a 330 and a few 220s will solve the mystery!
Meaning that the larger traps will trap just a out anything.....
I gotta ask. I've heard you mention dirt hole sets & "cubby sets" several times, and I was hesitant to show my ignorance, but what are they and what are their purpose? I've been curious since the first time you mentioned it in a video years ago. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge.
Use a shallower container, like a cat pan or similar and you can fit the big stuff in easy and not have to worry about too much speed dip.
I think it's pretty cool that you are going to this class, Dave. What are you looking to get out of it? -Chris
Keep the randomness up, brother, it's just as good.
Genesis 1:26, Leviticus 11, Deuteronomy 14: 3-21, Luke 5. Some primitive methods are illegal in some areas. While it may/may not be humane, the subject matter that is always being taught is about survival. Better to learn a skill and not need/use it, than need a skill and not know it. Thank you for your videos, and keep up the good work. =)
Bro,investing in a box of surgical gloves will make Ms.Iris very happy.
Is the dye for camouflage or is it a protectant? Is the wax more to lubracate or a protectant? How many times will you have to dye the traps in the life time of the trap?
Hey Dave what is the reason for dying the traps
Great videos Dave! I have a question in the furture at any time could you show us how to tan a deer hide like naturally with no produces form walmart like how the indians used to make blakets or clothing? i looked through your videos and you said something about brian tanning for a second in one. and im curios how do you make a water container out of rawhid? of a deer skin that you methoin in your salting deer skin video. Thanks Doug
Great stuff!! I've always been interested in trapping and never had anyone who could teach me anything about how to do it at all. Thanks Dave. Oh, BTW, most Ingles and Walmart bakeries will give you 2.5 gal and 5 gal "Harveys" for free, but you gotta ask.
Modern leg hold traps do not have off-set teeth that inflict pain. Once an animal's leg is caught the trap it cuts off the circulation to the leg and it goes numb, it's far from inhumane. Just check your traps often ...
Dave I know in a previous video you said you want to dispatch the animal in the most humane and quickest way possible. With that being said how does that work with the leg holds? Would you be checking them more often? Thanks for your input.
I do wax the water traps but leave my land traps dry. I know that if I do wax them, they would trigger a lot quicker but I dont. Thats just my own personal preference.
Two traps that I refuse to wax are the 280 & 330 coni. I feel that they become too unsafe. I would hate for one to go off on my hand or wrist and shatter some bones!
Yes, traps can be cruel, but you can easily cause suffering with a missed bullet or arrow as well.
Suffering or not, my survival comes first, and traps are a great way to get food. I don't trap myself, but I have before, and if I'm in a situation where I really need food, I wouldn't hesitate to.
one question dave...
can you use this dyeing method on knive steel like 440 and so on?
thanks for the great video!
Great video! happy 500th episode mate
Foot holds are not inhumane if you use the right size trap for the right game you will get a clean catch right across the paw no damage done to the leg or bones...hardly a mark in most cases. Even if you do catch an animal high on the leg it will not break bones, you can snap your fingers in footholds which I have done many a time and my fingers are fine. They also make foot holds with rubber jaws which are the most humane trap they put less injuries to the animal than a have-a-heart traps.
I have never trapped. I was wondering, do you wax to keep the traps from the weather or is there some other reason for it? I want to learn about the process so I can do it in the future.
Some traps kill quickly. Snares sometimes break the neck (like a noose) or it closes off the arteries & the animal passes out in a few seconds, then dies. Deadfalls are usually a bunch of times the animal's weight & either crushes them or lands on the head or neck. I agree, that some traps are inhumane, but trapping isn't totally that style.
All righty. Thank you very much. I hadn't known about this sort of thing, as I'm admittedly, more than a little green insofar as trapping is concerned. Thanks, again :) .
Damn Dave you died your hands pretty good buddy lol, good thing you carry a sail needle in your knife sheath for them pants, great video glad your kickin lots of bids out lately, when are journals of the tee-pee gonna be startin I love the yurt series!!!
Good luck with the trapping course. Thank you for the great vids. God bless
thanks for all the vids dave, random vids or not.....lots of info
.....billy joe.....
Looks like a good dye system
I bought a 7 dollar tote from Wal-Mart for dyeing my traps, and it works great.
Dave what do you think of using rat traps for catching small animals? I know they are not as big as the conibear traps.
So Dave, let me understand, are you now saying for sustainability and survibability, and for procuring food, that it is better that one should NOT use snares, but instead one should rely solely on traps such as the 110/220s? And how many of each per person?
If you are short of money and you need to blacken your traps . use grease wood .I use it all the time it blackens your traps and takes the Ironand man smell off the traps.
Hacker447
Reason for Dying/Waxing the Traps is that it darkens them down making them eisier to camoflage, and less conspicuous to Quarry, animals aren't stupid if it looks like it doesn't fit in with the surroundings they will give it a wide berth, no amount of leaves,twigs or bark can cover the unatural glare of bare metal
Waxing them incraeses their weather resistance, look after your tools and they will look after you,
For a first timer, would it be better to buy all new traps or buy used ones that may need a little TLC. I've been looking at the Duke long spring traps are they worth the money to get?
Dave, an old Indian trick, rubber gloves prevent stained hands.
spring loaded leg holds that break bones are not legal except if used in a drowning set . At least in Canada and Europe check : AIHTS
I use my 110 conibares to trap rats after they get savvy to the regular rat traps. works great for ones even that small.
My opinion is that leg hold traps need waxing but never wax conibears. It's not needed and makes them unsafe to use... Just my two cents... Best of luck bro. I can't wait for this instructional series. Trapping has been called the lazy mans hunting method. The truth is that trapping is the most effective method to harvest fur bearers and calorie savings available to the survivor in America today! Bar none!
Amos 3:5-6
5 Does a bird swoop down to a trap on the ground
when no bait is there?
Does a trap spring up from the ground
if it has not caught anything?
6 When a trumpet sounds in a city,
do not the people tremble?
When disaster comes to a city,
has not the Lord caused it?
Dave, would it be possible to see a good tracking series from you? I know you know you stuff about it but I just haven't seen many vids on it.
I do have to agree with you there, since I am an animal lover and would never want harm to come upon an animal willingly. However, in a survival situation, where it is life or death, then I believe it is more justified as a last resort. Trapping for fur or a business, however, I think is completely unnecessarily inhumane and should be illegal (if not already).
Genesis 9:3
Every moving thing that lives shall be food for you. And as I gave you the green plants, I give you everything.
acts 10:13
And there came a voice to him: “Rise, Peter; kill and eat.”
He doesn’t say how. There are many more passages like these.
Go coil spring leg holds. Wayyyy less things that can clog the spring
Do you use this on cable snares also or is it unnecessary to dye cable snares?
Never used this- I have some traps with surface rust- do I need to clean them first to use this, or no?
Mouse traps rarely kill quickly. They usually hit in thr lower back. Probably one of the cruelest traps around. Just behind glue pads. Modern trappers use very humane methods. Often heavely modifying equipment to help insure it. The foothold trap was used to catch the wolves in Canada that were planted in the US. Not the Mention Beaver and Otters in that were relocated in the US. the NAIA (National animal interest alliance. considers the Foothold trap more humane than a cage trap.
i wonder how many other uses their are for that trap dye? blueing guns, and knives ect