Thanks for watching!! Please consider subscribing and leaving a comment. I try to answer all the comments I can and don't forget to checkout some of the other content on my channel.
Thanks Joe, this was really amazing to get my brain working in a pixinsight way. Processed my very first LRGB mono data following along. Really appreciated. So much more complex than Photoshop, but powerful
Thank you for this great video. I have switched to your workflow for LRGB and had great success. It has made the process shorter and improved the quality of my final results. By the way, where would I inject HA data into the process?
Thanks Gunter, I'm so glad my video helped you! I have a video on adding Ha into your LRGB images. It's the video "Something's missing in Andromeda". There are many ways to do it actually. You could use the script NRGB, you can also use pixel math. Simple way in pixel math is adding your red*.5 + Ha*.5 then adding that as the red in the rgb image. You can get much more complex as well. Hope that helps!
This is an excellent tutorial. Thanks for posting this, Joe. Actually the process word to use here is "blink" and not B-link. Blink comes from the historical use of blink comparators to find tracks of asteroids as seen in two photographic plates being compared. I am actually old enough to have used such equipment. I can't figure out how to get Pix to recognize my images according to their filters. Is there a way to set this up that I've overlooked? It reports every batch loaded file under Lights as having No Filter although I use essentially standard LRGB notation in the filename. I've tried several ways that I thought would work, but I'm getting frustrated with what should be a simple issue. I normally use TIFF or PNG with my mono camera output.
Thanks so much Dark! I really need to update this video as my workflow on LRGB has drastically changed and improved since I made this. If possible, you’ll want to change your camera output to FITS. This file format generates the metadata in the file header that most astro software uses to get all the info from each sub exposure. If for whatever reason you can’t get it to output to FITS then you’ll need to manually tell Pix what each one is. Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching and commenting James. I found that bias frames don’t play well with the ASI1600, so instead of taking bias frames I take dark flats. However, I have been using an offset of 21 for all my calibration and light frames lately. I was using an offset of 50 before and saw no difference as long as the offset for my lights matched my calibration frames.
Hi Chris, I use CMOS cameras, so yeah, I always shoot bin 1 unless it’s the ASI 294MM Pro, then I’ll use bin 2 for longer focal lengths to take advantage of the better pixel scale.
Thanks Chris, I normally try for a 3:1 ratio, so if I do 30 of each RGB then I try and do 90 Lum subs if they are the same time which they usually are not, but you get the idea. I have a good video on exposure lengths if you get a chance to watch it, it leads you down a little rabbit hole to watch some other videos from Robin Glover, the creator of PHD2. So much depends on the magnitude of the target, the brightness of your sky (with and without moonlight), and the speed of your scope. For example, with my reducer on my EdgeHD 8 I'm at F7 and in a B2-3 zone. The full well on my cameras are very high as well so I can take 120 - 300 sec RGB subs and 90 - 180 sec Lum subs on most galaxies. If I was going to shoot Orion however, it's so bright, I'd probably do 30 - 60 subs in RGB maybe less and 20 sec Lum. If I wanted to get the trapezium inside of Orion, I may only get to take 5sec subs. Hope that helps and check out that video if you get a chance, it's very helpful.
@@JoesAstrophoto Yep I get there are variables. Just trying to land on a decent baseline ratio and exposure length to help build a solid workflow, then plan on fine tuning from there. Most of the suggestions I have seem to land on aiming for a 2:1 integration ratio with 120 second subs on L and 180 seconds on RGB. Assuming B4 skies. What are your thoughts on that as a starting point? I'm also working on shooting broadband from home in B9 - that's a whole other set of problems for another time.
Sounds like a good place to start. It's hard to tell without knowing your F ratio on the scope or lens and the target you are going after, but it sounds like a good place to start at. B4 is still pretty dark skies. On the 2:1 ratio though, I'd really try and get much more Lum than that. The Lum is where all the details come from, the RGB is just for color (of course there will be exceptions and variables to this as well).
Thanks for watching!! Please consider subscribing and leaving a comment. I try to answer all the comments I can and don't forget to checkout some of the other content on my channel.
Super !. Probably one the most clear workflows for LRGB. Thanks Joe !
Thanks so much Nick! My workflow has changed quite a bit since I made this video, I'll have to do an updated one.
A good example of how things can be done without *Xterminators, thank you!
Great job Joe. For a PI beginner like myself, this video was a perfect example of a follow-along training video.
Thanks Greg! I'm so glad it helped you!
I'm getting my LRGB filters in a few days, thanks Joe!
Thanks and congrats on the new filters!
Thanks Joe, this was really amazing to get my brain working in a pixinsight way. Processed my very first LRGB mono data following along. Really appreciated. So much more complex than Photoshop, but powerful
Thanks Simon, I;m glad it was helpful!
Nice
Thanks
Thank you for this great video. I have switched to your workflow for LRGB and had great success. It has made the process shorter and improved the quality of my final results. By the way, where would I inject HA data into the process?
Thanks Gunter, I'm so glad my video helped you! I have a video on adding Ha into your LRGB images. It's the video "Something's missing in Andromeda". There are many ways to do it actually. You could use the script NRGB, you can also use pixel math. Simple way in pixel math is adding your red*.5 + Ha*.5 then adding that as the red in the rgb image. You can get much more complex as well. Hope that helps!
This is an excellent tutorial. Thanks for posting this, Joe. Actually the process word to use here is "blink" and not B-link. Blink comes from the historical use of blink comparators to find tracks of asteroids as seen in two photographic plates being compared. I am actually old enough to have used such equipment.
I can't figure out how to get Pix to recognize my images according to their filters. Is there a way to set this up that I've overlooked? It reports every batch loaded file under Lights as having No Filter although I use essentially standard LRGB notation in the filename. I've tried several ways that I thought would work, but I'm getting frustrated with what should be a simple issue. I normally use TIFF or PNG with my mono camera output.
Thanks so much Dark! I really need to update this video as my workflow on LRGB has drastically changed and improved since I made this. If possible, you’ll want to change your camera output to FITS. This file format generates the metadata in the file header that most astro software uses to get all the info from each sub exposure. If for whatever reason you can’t get it to output to FITS then you’ll need to manually tell Pix what each one is. Hope that helps.
What did you have your offset set to when you tried capturing bias frames?
Thanks for watching and commenting James. I found that bias frames don’t play well with the ASI1600, so instead of taking bias frames I take dark flats. However, I have been using an offset of 21 for all my calibration and light frames lately. I was using an offset of 50 before and saw no difference as long as the offset for my lights matched my calibration frames.
Do you normally shoot all 4 channels bin 1x1 or do you ever bin RGB 2x2?
Hi Chris, I use CMOS cameras, so yeah, I always shoot bin 1 unless it’s the ASI 294MM Pro, then I’ll use bin 2 for longer focal lengths to take advantage of the better pixel scale.
@@JoesAstrophoto cheers joe. What L:RGB integration ratio do you aim for, and what L:RGB exposure lengths do you like? Assuming B4 skies.
Thanks Chris, I normally try for a 3:1 ratio, so if I do 30 of each RGB then I try and do 90 Lum subs if they are the same time which they usually are not, but you get the idea. I have a good video on exposure lengths if you get a chance to watch it, it leads you down a little rabbit hole to watch some other videos from Robin Glover, the creator of PHD2. So much depends on the magnitude of the target, the brightness of your sky (with and without moonlight), and the speed of your scope. For example, with my reducer on my EdgeHD 8 I'm at F7 and in a B2-3 zone. The full well on my cameras are very high as well so I can take 120 - 300 sec RGB subs and 90 - 180 sec Lum subs on most galaxies. If I was going to shoot Orion however, it's so bright, I'd probably do 30 - 60 subs in RGB maybe less and 20 sec Lum. If I wanted to get the trapezium inside of Orion, I may only get to take 5sec subs. Hope that helps and check out that video if you get a chance, it's very helpful.
@@JoesAstrophoto Yep I get there are variables. Just trying to land on a decent baseline ratio and exposure length to help build a solid workflow, then plan on fine tuning from there. Most of the suggestions I have seem to land on aiming for a 2:1 integration ratio with 120 second subs on L and 180 seconds on RGB. Assuming B4 skies. What are your thoughts on that as a starting point?
I'm also working on shooting broadband from home in B9 - that's a whole other set of problems for another time.
Sounds like a good place to start. It's hard to tell without knowing your F ratio on the scope or lens and the target you are going after, but it sounds like a good place to start at. B4 is still pretty dark skies. On the 2:1 ratio though, I'd really try and get much more Lum than that. The Lum is where all the details come from, the RGB is just for color (of course there will be exceptions and variables to this as well).