Love these videos. Raw and uncut just like normal people trying to fix things. Instead of cooking show motor channels. There's one in the oven already. I learned early in the coast guard to try a figure 8 when sanding it flat. Both techniques prob gets the same results.
So chuffed you working on outboards again, was the reason I started watching all these years, also gave me the guts to work on my own Outboards and buy another boat
I'd love you to make a video about making new gaskets by yourself instead of ordering an aftermarket kit. really enjoy all your videos. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Stu, I'm in my mid 70's now but you cleaning/honing the bore reminds me of when I used to rebuild all my bike engines. In those days Scott's motorcycles (UK) had a racing program & found out by accident that slight rust pitting in the bore held oil (2 strokes)& helped prevent seizing at max revs. Squeaky clean isn't always the answer mate, thanks again for sharing your experiences mate.
In a time long, long ago, in a place far, far away..... I was 16 and got my first real motorcycle. A '59 Royal Enfield 500 single. Rode it a lot. But I decided to rebuild it (with no previous knowledge about rebuilding except playing with Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines). All went well. Thankfully, the crank pin is threaded, so all I had to do was find a large enough socket and pulled it apart. I was in high school and taking metal shop. Thankfully, they had a huge lathe I used to align the crank (with a new-to-me invention --- a 'dial indicator'). All turned out perfect, and 50 years later, as far as I know, the machine is likely still running. The morale to the story is: Never be afraid of trying something. I learned a lot in the process. I applaud you for taking the time to do this rather than just buying a finished part.
Thanks mate. I figure it's worth having a got, particularly given there is no real harm if it doesn't work out. Great to hear about the Royal Enfield working out. Interesting to hear the crank pins are threaded.
Thanks for helping Cheers 🍻 Mate FYI via other video instead of using heat to remove stuck metal, if you can put in freezer a couple days, also for the key way that was stuck, buy some cleaning duster ; turn spray can upside down liquid nitrogen freeze 🥶 part and pop goes the weasel. I’m paused rebuilding lower unit but we’ll worth your time for video. When I get back to sitting around I’ll buy a T-shirt to help you out. PROSIT
I have seen one other person try this . So I'm rooting for you !! 0 to 70 we replace the crank with everything . 75 and above we rebuild . If any one can do it ? It's you !! Great video by the way. I'm on the treadmill watching and drinking beer . I guess that ok ?? Dock didn't say I couldn't .. Cheers from Murrell's Inlet SC !!
Heh, I'm 62 years old, been doing stuff like this, mostly on Landrovers, and 2 stroke motorbikes, for 50+ years and never thought of using cling film to wrap parts!! Bloody great idea mate, thanks from the UK .. ;)
Greetings, Stu! Nice video. In the beginning, I was thinking, "I would just buy a crank, they probably don't cost much," but then you explained you did it to practice with and sharpen your skills. That is what a good mechanic does. This video highlights one thing I really love about your videos. You don't just show perfect work, you show what can happen if you don't tap a rod when pressing or if you drop something, or whatever. You show mistakes so your audience doesn't make them. That is really valuable information! Great job. -Tony
I have always liked your attitude on this channel. You are skilled, but do not have a chip on your shoulder, like a lot of channels do. You seek advice from more skilled people. Some youtubers are young, and think they have knowledge of everything they share, and some are old and just set in their ways. There is a good reason why society invented the word "professional", although that category is abused also. You said you had "good" comments on here, and that is the way every youtuber should react, after all, by us watching the video adds dollars to your kitty. Always stay humble, and we will keep watching.
The last outboard I rebuilt (Yamaha 20hp 2-stroke) I sent the crankshaft and new bearings to someone in Queensland who rebuilt it and balanced/aligned it. It was cheap from memory, although it was about 8 years ago… full marks for being brave enough to have a go yourself!
Stu, you admit that there's people out there that know more than you and you're happy to see their (friendly) criticism just letting you know that you clearly know more than I do and your videos and the comment sections are a wealth of knowledge for someone wanting to learn how to get stuff done without buying the most expensive specialised tools. Thanks for doing what you do!
I also bent a piston rod some years ago. I was too poor to afford a replacement, so I straightened it, and reassembled. 25 years later, engine is running fine. You could try straightening, and see what you get. At worse, it’s still bent.
I agree put the rod back under the press and straighten it. Use a feeler gauge to check for flatness. I think Stu is more than capable to accomplish this. Getting that crank reassembled properly looks like the big challenge now.
my pal told me a way that would double the lifting power of my hydraulic car jack,, when I could not lift his fully loaded van off the ground with it,, he said,, ""just put thicker oil in the jack,, and it will lift twice the weight!,, he claimed the lifting power of any hydraulic jack all depended on how thick its oil was it had in it"",, yer right!,, I told him to drive his van up onto some block's,, then I would not need to jack it so high to get the flat tyre off,, ps,, you never did answer my question about how to disable a 1993 Johnson 140hp v4 lopper engine's quick start another great video,, keep them coming
Really enjoyed this video Stu. I’m glad you are taking the hard route to rebuild this thing and show us how it’s done. It could be easy to just buy a new one. Haha. I’m rebuilding a 66 El Camino right now and it’s good to see someone else scraping away dirt and grime to get an old car/outboard to run again. Cheers from USA.
Awesome. I really hope you use that refurb crank after all that work! Thanks so much for showing us either way. It's something you just don't get to see.
Good to see you get back to your roots Stu with small engine repair videos. Speaking of roots, I gotta get back to mine, he’s an impatient fellow, Ciao!!
i rebuilt a 76 chrysler 75 3 years ago. re ringed changed a scored piston and did +.10 on a couple of the cylinders that had light scoring. thing has ran like a new outboard last two seasons pulling tubes and fishing the lake. its fun to bring them back to life and sure is cheaper.
You're definitely right, I didn't know that until I went to use it. I found a flat spot to use for the job, but it definitely has a curve across the whole width. I'll replace it with some regular float glass and do a final dykem coat to double check before installing.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 1994 Evinrude 140. Its been so many years since I've rebuilt an outboard. You are a couple steps ahead of me so seeing your progress kinda helps keep me encouraged and remind me of little tidbits. Last outboard I fully rebuilt was my sunk and salvaged Suzuki DT30 (1991 ish) that thing has been going strong now for about 13 years, been sunk at least twice more in salt water. Still starts first pull. Keep up your good work! Also love your chickens!!!!
Stu, metal wedges of various sizes can be a life saver when working on a press with items that have uneven surfaces.Two together and slide until you have the required support. You need a few different sizes but it saves heart ache at times.
Yep you had me worried , a couple of lumps of plate , gas’s axe and maybe spot weld the odd washers or three ! A bit of preparation only takes 10 minutes and makes life easy, the hard job is reassembley . Love your show cheers
10 commandments is just beginning den it ur improvizement which makes legendary 2stroke rebuild especially keeping in mind da vry basic tool usage like crank is equal r bigger then used 10Ton press itself really challenging job accomplished of 2stroke rebuild
Hi Stu, I recondition MerCruiser engines at Hornsby. From 3.0ltr right through to 8.2L. If you need any re-bore or surfacing done we have all the equipment. After honing the bores I do a final hone with the Plateau hone brush that leaves essentially a run in surface. All the burrs that honing makes are removed and you have a cylinder that looks “Run in”. This also increases horsepower as there is a lot less friction. The engine spins far more easily and doesn’t feel tight. If you need any work, I will do it as a favour on a weekend if you wish. Good luck with the crank. Ron
What a peculiar design....i've never seen a crank assy like that in all my years....I see why they sell it as a whole chingadera. Thanx for taking the time to show us the disassembly tho. have to admit, i was waiting for it to explode!! I have a similar press but would def not attempt to do what u did. Seems like it'd be very difficult to align everything back up properly. I miss these kind of vids like u use to do in the beginning. Cant wait to see the rest!
Nice. A couple of winters ago I worked on a 2 stroke motorcycle and wish I'd seen this first. It's great to be along for the collective learning process. The YT 'experience' is strong here. Very many thanks for sharing, Doug, as ever.
Great video Stu, always keen to DIY as much as possible. Saves money, usually means a top quality job bc you take the care, and very satisfying when done. Excellent use of tools you had. Thanks as always for sharing!
To error is human.. The main thing is learning from it and trying not to repeat the same mistake. I personally have to replace head gaskets on a V6 for the 3rd time. I ripped out the bottom radiator hose because I didn't change a bad motor mount when it went bad. Lost all coolant and severely overheated less to 2 months after last replacement.... We live and we learn. Sometimes we still do 'dodgee" things when we know better...
This reminds me of last summer in the boatyard where I spent 2 weeks slaving on our lower unit....then Amber finds a new one that we couldn’t refuse.....damnit, but in the end I was happy...but not about the money......
Ive rebuilt hundreds of omc merc's yama mama's. The one thing I always did is a port job. Go ahead and smooth the port edges and make them a better transition than factory. Oh unless it was sunk the bearings are usually ok.
Looks good Stu, back when I was working on the OMCs and Mercs most of the time it was cheaper for us to order a short-block and put the gingerbread on it.
You are not the only one to make mistakes. It usually takes me three goes to get it right. Handy to know how to pull things apart because things are going to get very scarce
Hi Stu, You can get a better "print" of the bearing blue by cleaning a section of your glass (or a surface plate) then use only a little bit of the bearing blue and roll it only the flat surafce. Then you can place the surface you want to check onto the rolled bearing blue. This will give a higher resolution when checking for flatness, as there are no brush strokes and it's a very fine layer of "paint" Regards
Just my own 2 cents on honing, for whatever it's worth, I always had better luck using the tri-arm flat stone hones on 2-stroke cylinders because I usually ran into problems with dingle ball hones messing up port edges, getting tiny little burrs I couldn't see until the next time the engine came apart and sure enough, vertical scratch(es) on the piston ring leaking just a tiny bit of compression. It's a little more money (at least here in the US) but they always do a better job honing at home. Ports are NOT fun to repair!! If you dig out your rotary tool to put a bit of chamfer on the piston side of your transfer ports, going over it on your final hone with the flat stone, it'll always seal better and bed the rings in faster.
I've always enjoyed your projects, like this one, when you use what you have. You could have sent the head out to be milled down.....but where's the fun in that. Again, thanks for showing how it gets done. And we know Daisy would help if she could. She's not really scared......just a little chicken.
I've been there before. Thinking a simple rebuild kit is so cheap and should be a piece of cake just to find out it will cost me 3 times as much, take 10 times as long and won't be as good when done. But there is those 90+% of the time it works out doing it yourself, so I keep trying.
Hi stu one thing i found by accident when i did my 40 triple ,all that salt calcium build up comes of in a bath of CLR , i did my head , head cover and block .I found this little trick when i had some lying around and thought i wonder if it will clean up this crappy thermostat so i chucked it in a glass of it and of to work , came home had look didnt look good so chucked it in the sink and rinsed it of and to my surprise it was like new and it actually worked again opening and closing its good stuff cheers ,oh good luck with the needle rollers .
Hi Stu, good video. A couple of things I need to get for my shop is a press and a small metal milling machine. Making my own special tools for my projects would be awesome plus add content. They have some good deals right now
Stu when you mentioned the sealing surface around the bores being lower i also realised that when rebuilding my 2008 25hp yammy 2 years ago.prob explains why when i stripped it down to check after a few months it was muddy inside like oil and water mixing. Maybe i needed to sand it further.i thought if manufacturing had it lower to start with,was it for a reason? Piston clearance maybe as ring gap surely wouldnt allow water through due to oil pushing up to lubricate the sleeve? I could be wrong
Goose? No, more like a Bonzer Rooster, with all those fluffy ladies following you around when you've got a handful of corn...I like how your hanging dive suit has 'Diver's Butt'...As a retired Sunnen Honer, I know how expensive those 'Ball' hones can be. If you just need to 'freshen up' the surface and not fix OOR or scored conditions you can use a chunk of wood (Close to round is best, it should be just under the diameter of the cylinder) with a slit in one end and a 'headless' wood screw in the other. Fold a sheet of 'Wet or Dry' 80 to 100 grit Emery paper in half and push it into the slit, then chuck the 'Thread to lag' screw in a drill, oil the sanding medium and run it like a water pump impeller in the bore. If you need more pressure, stuff some kitchen sponge in behind the abrasive sheets. Much cheaper, and you can make dozens of sizes for the cost of one ball hone...I used this method to 're-hatch' my twin Mercs and it made a big difference...
Look, that's me, chicken magnet. ;) I do like that technique of a slot in a dowel, I've used that before to clean out tilt tubes that are gummed up with old grease, works a treat!
Soaking any parts in CLR or any other calcium remover are great for cleaning up salt water cooled engines and other things.😉👍Than a soak in Evaporust to get the rust off. Warning only for metal parts no aluminum will eat it.
Surprised there isn’t a shop that rebuilds crankshafts. The tricky part with a crank is alignment. After assembly you also have to check carefully for cracks. Seen more than one triple with a tiny crack.
To finish off and old mirror or plate glass with fine grinding compound and figure of 8 movement rotating slowly does a rather nice job. Leaving the old paste on will help the engine explode. My old Triumph Tiger Cub had a pressed flywheel ass., what a bl**dy awful design. It worked.
Hey Stu. Love the press your using. Love the interchangeable pin heads. Could you share link for it? Also I’m a mechanic. I’m in Chesapeake City, Maryland USA. Love your videos. Your a good humble man. Learned a lot about outboards from your vids. Wish you do more videos. Keep up the great work. Would love to live in AU!
Thanks Chris, glad you're enjoying the vids. Here is a link to the interchangeable heads. Should work with most presses. www.machineryhouse.com.au/P1401
Loving this , record every hit of the big soft hammer when adjusting the crank alignment . Can not get my head around the cage less small end bearing . How does that go back together ?
Makes that $280 crankshaft assembly seem quite cheap, when you see how much work is involved in dismantling that crank, replacing bearings, getting it all back together and clocked in, etc. The sandpaper on glass works great, I just repaired the cylinder head on a F80 Yamaha using JB weld and that glass technique. Local machine shop refused to repair the head without doing a complete overhaul, including valve seats, shims, etc, well over 1 k in costs, and hardly worth it. I have heard that welding up the corrosion holes doesn't last long anyway, so nothing to lose really. Motor's running fine so far, 3 months on...
Love these videos. Raw and uncut just like normal people trying to fix things. Instead of cooking show motor channels. There's one in the oven already. I learned early in the coast guard to try a figure 8 when sanding it flat. Both techniques prob gets the same results.
So chuffed you working on outboards again, was the reason I started watching all these years, also gave me the guts to work on my own Outboards and buy another boat
Glad you're enjoying the outboard vids again! :)
I'd love you to make a video about making new gaskets by yourself instead of ordering an aftermarket kit. really enjoy all your videos. thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Stu, I'm in my mid 70's now but you cleaning/honing the bore reminds me of when I used to rebuild all my bike engines. In those days Scott's motorcycles (UK) had a racing program & found out by accident that slight rust pitting in the bore held oil (2 strokes)& helped prevent seizing at max revs. Squeaky clean isn't always the answer mate, thanks again for sharing your experiences mate.
In a time long, long ago, in a place far, far away.....
I was 16 and got my first real motorcycle. A '59 Royal Enfield 500 single. Rode it a lot. But I decided to rebuild it (with no previous knowledge about rebuilding except playing with Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engines). All went well. Thankfully, the crank pin is threaded, so all I had to do was find a large enough socket and pulled it apart. I was in high school and taking metal shop. Thankfully, they had a huge lathe I used to align the crank (with a new-to-me invention --- a 'dial indicator'). All turned out perfect, and 50 years later, as far as I know, the machine is likely still running. The morale to the story is: Never be afraid of trying something. I learned a lot in the process. I applaud you for taking the time to do this rather than just buying a finished part.
Thanks mate. I figure it's worth having a got, particularly given there is no real harm if it doesn't work out. Great to hear about the Royal Enfield working out. Interesting to hear the crank pins are threaded.
Thanks for helping Cheers 🍻 Mate
FYI via other video instead of using heat to remove stuck metal, if you can put in freezer a couple days, also for the key way that was stuck, buy some cleaning duster ; turn spray can upside down liquid nitrogen freeze 🥶 part and pop goes the weasel. I’m paused rebuilding lower unit but we’ll worth your time for video. When I get back to sitting around I’ll buy a T-shirt to help you out. PROSIT
It's always fun to listen to someone from a different country with their different thermology for many items.
I have seen one other person try this . So I'm rooting for you !! 0 to 70 we replace the crank with everything . 75 and above we rebuild . If any one can do it ? It's you !! Great video by the way. I'm on the treadmill watching and drinking beer . I guess that ok ?? Dock didn't say I couldn't .. Cheers from Murrell's Inlet SC !!
LOL. Love your style. :)
Heh, I'm 62 years old, been doing stuff like this, mostly on Landrovers, and 2 stroke motorbikes, for 50+ years and never thought of using cling film to wrap parts!! Bloody great idea mate, thanks from the UK .. ;)
That's how all the cylinder heads we used to sent off to be machined come back so I thought I'd steal the idea and try to look professional. ;)
Hey Stu, I'm sure you are not the only person to make mistakes but perhaps the only person honest enough to admit it.
Greetings, Stu! Nice video. In the beginning, I was thinking, "I would just buy a crank, they probably don't cost much," but then you explained you did it to practice with and sharpen your skills. That is what a good mechanic does. This video highlights one thing I really love about your videos. You don't just show perfect work, you show what can happen if you don't tap a rod when pressing or if you drop something, or whatever. You show mistakes so your audience doesn't make them. That is really valuable information! Great job. -Tony
I have always liked your attitude on this channel. You are skilled, but do not have a chip on your shoulder, like a lot of channels do. You seek advice from more skilled people. Some youtubers are young, and think they have knowledge of everything they share, and some are old and just set in their ways. There is a good reason why society invented the word "professional", although that category is abused also. You said you had "good" comments on here, and that is the way every youtuber should react, after all, by us watching the video adds dollars to your kitty. Always stay humble, and we will keep watching.
The last outboard I rebuilt (Yamaha 20hp 2-stroke) I sent the crankshaft and new bearings to someone in Queensland who rebuilt it and balanced/aligned it. It was cheap from memory, although it was about 8 years ago… full marks for being brave enough to have a go yourself!
It's not hard to be brave when you have a plan B. ;)
Stu, you admit that there's people out there that know more than you and you're happy to see their (friendly) criticism just letting you know that you clearly know more than I do and your videos and the comment sections are a wealth of knowledge for someone wanting to learn how to get stuff done without buying the most expensive specialised tools.
Thanks for doing what you do!
Thanks mate. Hopefully by the end of this we'll all know! :)
@@DangarMarine EVeryday is a school day. The more you know, the more you realise there is left to learn.
I hardly ever work on outboards and yet I find myself watching his videos almost every day just in case😑.
You never know!
I also bent a piston rod some years ago. I was too poor to afford a replacement, so I straightened it, and reassembled. 25 years later, engine is running fine. You could try straightening, and see what you get. At worse, it’s still bent.
I agree put the rod back under the press and straighten it. Use a feeler gauge to check for flatness. I think Stu is more than capable to accomplish this. Getting that crank reassembled properly looks like the big challenge now.
Yes, I certainly don't see any harm in giving it a go!
my pal told me a way that would double the lifting power of my hydraulic car jack,, when I could not lift his fully loaded van off the ground with it,, he said,, ""just put thicker oil in the jack,, and it will lift twice the weight!,, he claimed the lifting power of any hydraulic jack all depended on how thick its oil was it had in it"",, yer right!,, I told him to drive his van up onto some block's,, then I would not need to jack it so high to get the flat tyre off,,
ps,, you never did answer my question about how to disable a 1993 Johnson 140hp v4 lopper engine's quick start
another great video,, keep them coming
Not sure how to disable quick start, have never done it.
Really enjoyed this video Stu. I’m glad you are taking the hard route to rebuild this thing and show us how it’s done. It could be easy to just buy a new one. Haha. I’m rebuilding a 66 El Camino right now and it’s good to see someone else scraping away dirt and grime to get an old car/outboard to run again. Cheers from USA.
Thanks Franklin, good luck with the El Camino! Nice cars. :)
Awesome. I really hope you use that refurb crank after all that work! Thanks so much for showing us either way. It's something you just don't get to see.
Good to see you get back to your roots Stu with small engine repair videos. Speaking of roots, I gotta get back to mine, he’s an impatient fellow, Ciao!!
Thanks mate!
Always wish I could just hang out and give you a hand. Great stuff, Stu.
Maybe one day! :)
Man, I missed videos like this. Keep them coming Stu.
i rebuilt a 76 chrysler 75 3 years ago. re ringed changed a scored piston and did +.10 on a couple of the cylinders that had light scoring. thing has ran like a new outboard last two seasons pulling tubes and fishing the lake. its fun to bring them back to life and sure is cheaper.
Hey stu toughened glass can have a bow due to the heat applied during the toughening process, might pay to straight edge the glass too
You're definitely right, I didn't know that until I went to use it. I found a flat spot to use for the job, but it definitely has a curve across the whole width. I'll replace it with some regular float glass and do a final dykem coat to double check before installing.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 1994 Evinrude 140. Its been so many years since I've rebuilt an outboard. You are a couple steps ahead of me so seeing your progress kinda helps keep me encouraged and remind me of little tidbits. Last outboard I fully rebuilt was my sunk and salvaged Suzuki DT30 (1991 ish) that thing has been going strong now for about 13 years, been sunk at least twice more in salt water. Still starts first pull. Keep up your good work! Also love your chickens!!!!
Good luck with your rebuild and great to hear the DT30 is still going strong!
Stu, metal wedges of various sizes can be a life saver when working on a press with items that have uneven surfaces.Two together and slide until you have the required support. You need a few different sizes but it saves heart ache at times.
Sounds like it's worth grabbing a set for sure.
Honing it this is as deep as it gets nice job man
Yep you had me worried , a couple of lumps of plate , gas’s axe and maybe spot weld the odd washers or three ! A bit of preparation only takes 10 minutes and makes life easy, the hard job is reassembley . Love your show cheers
Can't wait to see how you will align the two ends of the crank to each other and balance the assembly. 🤔
Keep up the good work.
JIM 🤩
10 commandments is just beginning den it ur improvizement which makes legendary 2stroke rebuild especially keeping in mind da vry basic tool usage like crank is equal r bigger then used 10Ton press itself really challenging job accomplished of 2stroke rebuild
Nice video for people who want to brave it on their own..or who just have to do it....thank you John
Good stuff, interesting and look forward to the first start. Appreciate you taking the time to revive the old parts 👍
No problem 👍
We used to put chalk (ordinary blackboard variety) on the sandpaper to prevent clogging when lapping heads and blocks - especially alloy ones.
Interesting tip, I'll try that.
Hi Stu, I recondition MerCruiser engines at Hornsby. From 3.0ltr right through to 8.2L. If you need any re-bore or surfacing done we have all the equipment. After honing the bores I do a final hone with the Plateau hone brush that leaves essentially a run in surface. All the burrs that honing makes are removed and you have a cylinder that looks “Run in”. This also increases horsepower as there is a lot less friction. The engine spins far more easily and doesn’t feel tight. If you need any work, I will do it as a favour on a weekend if you wish. Good luck with the crank. Ron
Thanks Ron, much appreciated. Where are you located?
@@DangarMarine Happy to help. Factory 3/32 Leighton Place Hornsby. Drop in any time and check us out. Ron
What a peculiar design....i've never seen a crank assy like that in all my years....I see why they sell it as a whole chingadera. Thanx for taking the time to show us the disassembly tho. have to admit, i was waiting for it to explode!! I have a similar press but would def not attempt to do what u did. Seems like it'd be very difficult to align everything back up properly. I miss these kind of vids like u use to do in the beginning. Cant wait to see the rest!
Hope you do reassemble the crankshaft. I would like to know how you get proper alignment. Thank you for the series.
Nice. A couple of winters ago I worked on a 2 stroke motorcycle and wish I'd seen this first. It's great to be along for the collective learning process. The YT 'experience' is strong here. Very many thanks for sharing, Doug, as ever.
Smart looking press that, looks better than the cheap ones
Thanks mate.
Great video Stu, always keen to DIY as much as possible. Saves money, usually means a top quality job bc you take the care, and very satisfying when done. Excellent use of tools you had. Thanks as always for sharing!
Small engine surgery is amazing to watch thanks!
You may not be able to use the rotating assembly in the rebuild, but it’s sure been an educational experience for me 👍👍
Thanks mate. I'm certainly keen to give it a good shot and putting it back together regardless of how it turns out.
You are not alone, my friend.
Phew! :)
Good stuff. Hope the river isnt getting too high.
Thanks mate, all good down our end. We are too close to the ocean for it to flood like it does upstream.
Wind chimes. They will make great wind chimes. Every sound will be a reminder on how to do things that need done.
I like that idea. :)
@@DangarMarine lol, me too
Hey Stu, thanks for the content.
For future reference to help with resurface (anything) figure 8 pattern.
Hey Stu, we can see the forest ( for the trees ). It's right behind you mate.
Ah, there it is!
the hardest repair you have had to do on an outboard motor? Wishhad you talent
Thanks again I'm learning much from you
Tony Goa
India
Hi Stuart hope everything is okay with all the rain down in Sydney stay safe brother Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia
Hey Stu thanks for the link on the gear box and Franks tip sounds good I use stepped wedges that whey you dont need as many
Cheers mate
stu when leveling a face its best to do figure eights and there is no need to reverse whilst honeng
Great video, lots of tips, keep them coming. Looking forward to first start!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks mate👍....Hooooooo l think l have had to many beers🥵👀...lt is 12:50AM here in Kentucky🇺🇸.....Cheers 🍺🍺🍻🥂
No such thing as too many beers if your safe at home! :)
Stu, I love your commentary and your obvious skill. Great Video!
Thank you kindly
You are not the only one that makes mistakes
I remember I made a mistake in 1983
Well done stu look forward to the next video
To error is human.. The main thing is learning from it and trying not to repeat the same mistake. I personally have to replace head gaskets on a V6 for the 3rd time. I ripped out the bottom radiator hose because I didn't change a bad motor mount when it went bad. Lost all coolant and severely overheated less to 2 months after last replacement.... We live and we learn. Sometimes we still do 'dodgee" things when we know better...
Indeed. To err is human, to moo bovine. :)
This reminds me of last summer in the boatyard where I spent 2 weeks slaving on our lower unit....then Amber finds a new one that we couldn’t refuse.....damnit, but in the end I was happy...but not about the money......
Ah, that happens. As you say, despite all your efforts to repair sometimes a replacement part comes along that just can't be refused.
cool watching the head sanding.
you are not the only one that makes mistakes! it is only when you do not learn from them and a reminder is not a bad thing
Ive rebuilt hundreds of omc merc's yama mama's. The one thing I always did is a port job. Go ahead and smooth the port edges and make them a better transition than factory. Oh unless it was sunk the bearings are usually ok.
Even if you get a new crankshaft it is worth checking it for straightness. The straighter it is the better she"ll run.
Looks good Stu, back when I was working on the OMCs and Mercs most of the time it was cheaper for us to order a short-block and put the gingerbread on it.
For sure, there are plenty of times where doing it all from scratch doesn't make any sense, certainly not financially.
You are not the only one to make mistakes. It usually takes me three goes to get it right. Handy to know how to pull things apart because things are going to get very scarce
It is true that some things are getting harder and harder to find and therefore need to be repaired. All the Detroits are a classic example.
@@DangarMarine Anything from America seems to be a problem. They wanted $160 freight for a set of mower Blades the other day.
Cheers Stu, i enjoyed that
Hi Stu,
You can get a better "print" of the bearing blue by cleaning a section of your glass (or a surface plate) then use only a little bit of the bearing blue and roll it only the flat surafce. Then you can place the surface you want to check onto the rolled bearing blue.
This will give a higher resolution when checking for flatness, as there are no brush strokes and it's a very fine layer of "paint"
Regards
Thanks mate, appreciate the tip. :)
Try a 1 " wood chisel to scrape gasket material, a cheap one works great and you get a handle to make you feel like you live in the First World !!
Is there any video when you assemble this? Really interesting! :) Thanks for the video!
Not yet, but it is slowly going back together!
Loved this. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just my own 2 cents on honing, for whatever it's worth, I always had better luck using the tri-arm flat stone hones on 2-stroke cylinders because I usually ran into problems with dingle ball hones messing up port edges, getting tiny little burrs I couldn't see until the next time the engine came apart and sure enough, vertical scratch(es) on the piston ring leaking just a tiny bit of compression. It's a little more money (at least here in the US) but they always do a better job honing at home. Ports are NOT fun to repair!! If you dig out your rotary tool to put a bit of chamfer on the piston side of your transfer ports, going over it on your final hone with the flat stone, it'll always seal better and bed the rings in faster.
Love your work, thanks for sharing
I have never made a mistake with an outboard disassembly. I just be very careful and never, ever disassemble one. :) Thanks Stu, that was great.
You are wise! :)
@@DangarMarine Yes, o/b ignorant, but wise...
I've always enjoyed your projects, like this one, when you use what you have. You could have sent the head out to be milled down.....but where's the fun in that. Again, thanks for showing how it gets done. And we know Daisy would help if she could. She's not really scared......just a little chicken.
Thanks mate. As you say, sending these off to be machined is easy (and sometimes necessary) but it's fun to see what you can do yourself.
I've been there before. Thinking a simple rebuild kit is so cheap and should be a piece of cake just to find out it will cost me 3 times as much, take 10 times as long and won't be as good when done. But there is those 90+% of the time it works out doing it yourself, so I keep trying.
Exactly. Just because it makes no sense doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. ;)
Cool I see your chickens 🐔 they are on alert
They are the home guard against invaders!
INOX MX3 and MX4 is the best penetrating fluid/lubricant i have found
Hi stu one thing i found by accident when i did my 40 triple ,all that salt calcium build up comes of in a bath of CLR , i did my head , head cover and block .I found this little trick when i had some lying around and thought i wonder if it will clean up this crappy thermostat so i chucked it in a glass of it and of to work , came home had look didnt look good so chucked it in the sink and rinsed it of and to my surprise it was like new and it actually worked again opening and closing its good stuff cheers ,oh good luck with the needle rollers .
You can straighten con rods, using the very same press that bent them...
Yes, I'll definitely give it a go.
Daisy didn't even see that marsupial behind the tree but knew something was up haha
Hi Stu, good video. A couple of things I need to get for my shop is a press and a small metal milling machine. Making my own special tools for my projects would be awesome plus add content. They have some good deals right now
Yes, I too am hoping to get a lathe for the workshop this year. Something new to learn!
Stu when you mentioned the sealing surface around the bores being lower i also realised that when rebuilding my 2008 25hp yammy 2 years ago.prob explains why when i stripped it down to check after a few months it was muddy inside like oil and water mixing.
Maybe i needed to sand it further.i thought if manufacturing had it lower to start with,was it for a reason?
Piston clearance maybe as ring gap surely wouldnt allow water through due to oil pushing up to lubricate the sleeve?
I could be wrong
Thanks for the video have a good day
Goose? No, more like a Bonzer Rooster, with all those fluffy ladies following you around when you've got a handful of corn...I like how your hanging dive suit has 'Diver's Butt'...As a retired Sunnen Honer, I know how expensive those 'Ball' hones can be. If you just need to 'freshen up' the surface and not fix OOR or scored conditions you can use a chunk of wood (Close to round is best, it should be just under the diameter of the cylinder) with a slit in one end and a 'headless' wood screw in the other. Fold a sheet of 'Wet or Dry' 80 to 100 grit Emery paper in half and push it into the slit, then chuck the 'Thread to lag' screw in a drill, oil the sanding medium and run it like a water pump impeller in the bore. If you need more pressure, stuff some kitchen sponge in behind the abrasive sheets. Much cheaper, and you can make dozens of sizes for the cost of one ball hone...I used this method to 're-hatch' my twin Mercs and it made a big difference...
Look, that's me, chicken magnet. ;) I do like that technique of a slot in a dowel, I've used that before to clean out tilt tubes that are gummed up with old grease, works a treat!
Soaking any parts in CLR or any other calcium remover are great for cleaning up salt water cooled engines and other things.😉👍Than a soak in Evaporust to get the rust off. Warning only for metal parts no aluminum will eat it.
Most outboard blocks are all Aluminum
Surprised there isn’t a shop that rebuilds crankshafts. The tricky part with a crank is alignment. After assembly you also have to check carefully for cracks. Seen more than one triple with a tiny crack.
For sure, after all the pressing in and out cracks a real risk.
Plaeas do a video on Yamaha Enduro 60hp's crank shaft disassembly
To finish off and old mirror or plate glass with fine grinding compound and figure of 8 movement rotating slowly does a rather nice job. Leaving the old paste on will help the engine explode.
My old Triumph Tiger Cub had a pressed flywheel ass., what a bl**dy awful design. It worked.
Can't beat a proper dingleberry hone.. Just make sure you dip it into oil to ensure all the stones are wet.
Stu, have a look at Allen Millyard's channel. He builds his own crankshafts for his special bikes. Learnt a lot from that genius.
Hey Stu, kero or diesel works well to hone cylinders too, even WD40 !! Seeya Rob
Sounds like there are plenty of options then.
Hey Stu. Love the press your using. Love the interchangeable pin heads. Could you share link for it? Also I’m a mechanic. I’m in Chesapeake City, Maryland USA. Love your videos. Your a good humble man. Learned a lot about outboards from your vids. Wish you do more videos. Keep up the great work. Would love to live in AU!
Thanks Chris, glad you're enjoying the vids. Here is a link to the interchangeable heads. Should work with most presses. www.machineryhouse.com.au/P1401
Gr8 encouragement you are Stu 🏆
It's good to see the chickens
GOOD JOB, KEEP SAFE...
Thanks Bob, you too!
U clever fella don’t doubt urself
Loving this , record every hit of the big soft hammer when adjusting the crank alignment . Can not get my head around the cage less small end bearing . How does that go back together ?
Plenty of grease to keep all the needles in place as you reassemble.
Will do! This is the cage less bearings on the Evinrude ua-cam.com/video/3JS6qJBhXYg/v-deo.html
Makes that $280 crankshaft assembly seem quite cheap, when you see how much work is involved in dismantling that crank, replacing bearings, getting it all back together and clocked in, etc. The sandpaper on glass works great, I just repaired the cylinder head on a F80 Yamaha using JB weld and that glass technique. Local machine shop refused to repair the head without doing a complete overhaul, including valve seats, shims, etc, well over 1 k in costs, and hardly worth it. I have heard that welding up the corrosion holes doesn't last long anyway, so nothing to lose really. Motor's running fine so far, 3 months on...
Great to hear you had success with your four stroke rebuild. It's amazing how well some of these DIY repairs can work and last.
budget idea use the press to bend the con rod back
very interesting video, thanks!
Oh yea I got my shirt today thanks
You're welcome, thanks for supporting the channel! :)
I wear it with pride