If your system isn't from the 40s and you have 5 wires, you can run this without any batteries. If your concerned about losing power and not having a backup, no worries, if you dont have power your furnace or boiler wont be running anyway.
I loved your Sensi Touch review because going through the app menu allowed me to verify it offers Temperature Limits, but you didn’t do that with this one, ugh. Does the Lite offer Temperature limits and lockout feature? Ie. For AirBnb or light commercial, being able to put a schedule and temp limits is critical, so someone doesn’t set the heater to 90* and then leave for the day.
@@jallen418 I bought 7 of them and can verify that the Lite DOES have High (Heater), Low (AC), and Auto (both heater & AC) Limits. Additionally, you can lockout the controller all together and set schedules for each item; Heat, AC, Auto to the minute and any day. You can also control what’s displayed and see a report for each unit.
I think that I need to change the batteries but the faceplate us NOT coming out. I have quite short wires on the connection so I am afraid to pull hard on the faceplate. Please help. Thank you!
I use this for heat only. No C wire. Each time furnace kicks on the display goes black and app says thermostat offline. Display comes back on shortly after and all shows it reconnects. Anyone else and is there a fix?
I'm in the market to buy a smart thermostat and I'm presently deciding between the Sensi Lite for $89 and the Amazon Smart thermostat for $79. Which would you recommend?
Sensi is a sub brand of Emerson (White Rogers), who happens to manf roughly half the electronics for all HVAC systems. Basically splitting the market-share with Honeywell (Resideo). Amazon is fine for my kindle or budget FireTV. For anything HVAC I assume turn to the professionals. And anything 'smart' is going to be Alexa compatible anyway.
For me an absolutely critical feature is battery backup, and I am astonished that many smart thermostats (seems like all Honeywells for instance) do not have one. One of the main reasons for me to have WIFI connected thermostat is to be able to monitor the state of heating while I am away. And one of the modes of furnace failure is electrical. Without battery backup and only C-wire power that will kill the thermostat, and its ability to send alert and monitor the temperature remotely. (This what happened to me this winter, when furnace tripped the breaker, and was without electricity as house cooled and pipes got frozen). I am not sure about Amazon, but Sensi Smart (not Sensi smart touch) and now seems Sensi Lite are one of few that do have battery backup. BTW Amazon smart thermostat seems to be Honeywell inside
Garbage.. do not buy. Spend $10 more and get the regular sensi smart thermostat. I have tried 3 of these so far and every time I get "provisional error" when I tried to set it up on wifi. 3 different routers, 2 different phones (android and apple), all of them I get an error. The apple does not say provisional error but it fails to set it up and I forget the exact error. Could I open ports in the router and stand on my head to get these to work? Might these work right out of the box for some depending on your phone and router combo? Maybe.... but time is money and the regular sensi smart thermostats work every time. A 80 year old customer is not going to go through hoops to get thermostat connected, they need to just work out of the box or its a no go. I ended up just throwing the 3 I got into the trash. I got them for free as a trial anyway and I wont be using any more of them. If anybody from emserson is listening..... there is some kind of software issue with these you need to sort out.
Great video! I have a Brivis 2 wire thermostat with one wire into "A" and one wire into "B". It's so basic it's just on or off, closing or opening the switch in the thermostat. I just have no way to know which connectors those two wires go into on this Sensi Thermostat. Here's what I have: i.postimg.cc/7HMx0wwz/20230523-130751.jpg
As being said, one goes to R(Rh), the other W. For simple thermostat it does not matter which is which, since it just closes the connection as a switch. Often (as in my case), both wires are even of the same color, and nobody bothered to track which is which. If you will have 3-wire connection with added C wire, it become matter which wire goes to R and which to W, since those thermostats take voltage for power between R and C, and consistent 24 V are between R and C on the furnace since R and C go basically straight to transformer, while between W and C voltage may be absent or intermittent.
Why haven't other manufacturers come out with Wi-Fi thermostats that don't require a C-wire?
I’m glad I’m not the only one annoyed by that C-Wire 🤦♂️
The O/B thermostat is actually for the reversing valve on a Heat Pump system. This model does not support humidification, or dehumidification.
I have a variable speed fan. How do I set my device to make sure the higher speed fan is on? Great video. Thank you
If your system isn't from the 40s and you have 5 wires, you can run this without any batteries. If your concerned about losing power and not having a backup, no worries, if you dont have power your furnace or boiler wont be running anyway.
Does this Sensi light thermostat display the date, and time?
Also, to cool.the house off faster, which setting should I have my fan set at, Auto, or All the time on?
Thanks for the review. Was looking to see if this could be used without internet and it appears not since you can’t control the schedule.
I loved your Sensi Touch review because going through the app menu allowed me to verify it offers Temperature Limits, but you didn’t do that with this one, ugh. Does the Lite offer Temperature limits and lockout feature? Ie. For AirBnb or light commercial, being able to put a schedule and temp limits is critical, so someone doesn’t set the heater to 90* and then leave for the day.
I cannot find this info either
@@jallen418 I bought 7 of them and can verify that the Lite DOES have High (Heater), Low (AC), and Auto (both heater & AC) Limits. Additionally, you can lockout the controller all together and set schedules for each item; Heat, AC, Auto to the minute and any day. You can also control what’s displayed and see a report for each unit.
So no blower motor only function?
I think that I need to change the batteries but the faceplate us NOT coming out. I have quite short wires on the connection so I am afraid to pull hard on the faceplate. Please help. Thank you!
Since the face isn't screwed on, you just need to pull harder.
hi, is it compatible with R and Rc system? i dont see Rc terminal, thanks
I use this for heat only. No C wire. Each time furnace kicks on the display goes black and app says thermostat offline. Display comes back on shortly after and all shows it reconnects. Anyone else and is there a fix?
probably use a c wire to power it while the heat is on...
Thanks for this.
Thank you!
Without C wire, you will not be able to connect to wifi..... I purchased a separate 24v transformer to be able to have it on wifi.
I'm in the market to buy a smart thermostat and I'm presently deciding between the Sensi Lite for $89 and the Amazon Smart thermostat for $79. Which would you recommend?
Sensi is a sub brand of Emerson (White Rogers), who happens to manf roughly half the electronics for all HVAC systems. Basically splitting the market-share with Honeywell (Resideo).
Amazon is fine for my kindle or budget FireTV. For anything HVAC I assume turn to the professionals. And anything 'smart' is going to be Alexa compatible anyway.
For me an absolutely critical feature is battery backup, and I am astonished that many smart thermostats (seems like all Honeywells for instance) do not have one. One of the main reasons for me to have WIFI connected thermostat is to be able to monitor the state of heating while I am away. And one of the modes of furnace failure is electrical. Without battery backup and only C-wire power that will kill the thermostat, and its ability to send alert and monitor the temperature remotely. (This what happened to me this winter, when furnace tripped the breaker, and was without electricity as house cooled and pipes got frozen). I am not sure about Amazon, but Sensi Smart (not Sensi smart touch) and now seems Sensi Lite are one of few that do have battery backup. BTW Amazon smart thermostat seems to be Honeywell inside
You would also need battery backup for your WIFI router and modem to get any alerts. Keep that in mind. @@dmitripogosian5084
Did you tell everyone here that usung the two AAA batteries you need replace them every several days?
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks for watching!
Garbage.. do not buy. Spend $10 more and get the regular sensi smart thermostat.
I have tried 3 of these so far and every time I get "provisional error" when I tried to set it up on wifi. 3 different routers, 2 different phones (android and apple), all of them I get an error. The apple does not say provisional error but it fails to set it up and I forget the exact error. Could I open ports in the router and stand on my head to get these to work? Might these work right out of the box for some depending on your phone and router combo?
Maybe.... but time is money and the regular sensi smart thermostats work every time. A 80 year old customer is not going to go through hoops to get thermostat connected, they need to just work out of the box or its a no go. I ended up just throwing the 3 I got into the trash. I got them for free as a trial anyway and I wont be using any more of them. If anybody from emserson is listening..... there is some kind of software issue with these you need to sort out.
That model requires c wire
So you threw electronics into the trash where it will take 600 years to decompose instead of putting it into the recycle bin at least.
Do you talk like this IRL?
Great video! I have a Brivis 2 wire thermostat with one wire into "A" and one wire into "B". It's so basic it's just on or off, closing or opening the switch in the thermostat. I just have no way to know which connectors those two wires go into on this Sensi Thermostat.
Here's what I have: i.postimg.cc/7HMx0wwz/20230523-130751.jpg
For 2 wire heat only you only use R(Rh) and W
As being said, one goes to R(Rh), the other W. For simple thermostat it does not matter which is which, since it just closes the connection as a switch. Often (as in my case), both wires are even of the same color, and nobody bothered to track which is which. If you will have 3-wire connection with added C wire, it become matter which wire goes to R and which to W, since those thermostats take voltage for power between R and C, and consistent 24 V are between R and C on the furnace since R and C go basically straight to transformer, while between W and C voltage may be absent or intermittent.