If you're looking for a new utility knife, our Punished Props blade and refill pack is on sale! www.punishedprops.com/shop/foamsmith-utility-knife-bonus-10-pack-of-replacement-blades/
Tapping resin with a power drill?? Bill, my friend, you're a braver man than I! Loved the Ghost reference, and the project turned out epic! Great job, guys!
Great build as always, Bill and Brit. Another fast way to fill resin divots left by supports and small holes, etc. is to use more resin. Brush a little on with a paintbrush and then instantly cure it with a UV flashlight. The flashlights can be found on Amazon for less than $20. Just make sure it is the right wavelength. I've even used it to build up gussets wo strengthen thin areas of prints. Finally, one last tip. After you have washed the excess resin off in alcohol (but before curing) give the prints a bit of a soak in hot/warm water. It will soften the supports and they practically fall off the model as long as the tips aren't imbedded too far into the surface.
If you want an easier time taking supports off you can dip the print into hot water after cleaning but before curing and the supports just peel right off!
For the supports you can use light or medium supports placed automatically and then add a few heavy for extra strength. You can use the resin itself as a filler material and cure it with a UV flashlight
@@punishedprops I use it all the time. Add baking soda (and even pigments) to your resin so it makes a paste and can help sometimes. Just be careful that curing resin with a UV light ( 405 nm) generates a LOT of heat and can melt PLA, ABS, or other plastics. Great job, I love your channel and energy.
A tip for printing hollow resin pieces like the handle is to place the piece more vertical not fully but about 75 degrees. Then place heavy supports at the bottom of the piece and also inside the hollow section instead of the outside so that there isn't any marks to get rid of. Works great if you want to preserve a lot of detail on the outer wall of the piece that sanding would destroy or if you're lazy like I am. It also gives you more room on the bed for other pieces but keep in mind the taller a print job is the longer it takes.
for pits in resin, you can add just a little bit of uncured resin to the pit and then cure it. you still need to sand but that works well. you can also do that to hide seams just put some uncured resin on the seam and then cure.
No Ghosting! 😁 Another lovely addition to the collection. And more reminders that (nearly) anything can be fixed with a little body filler. Thanks for sharing!
A threaded rod might actually be a good idea for simple fact that it gives more places for the glue to grab onto. So even though it wasn't intended I think it actually was the better option.
Getting a wood lathe and turning myself a wooden handle for a lightsaber has been on my TODO for a few years now. Love the personal touches you guys added.
Oooh another lightsaber mashup! You and Tethan are the only people I've seen do these mash-ups and did it amazingly! Also what about a Witcher lightsaber next??
Screen protector is also a must I learned the hard way 😅 I also learned about temp early and now point a tower heater directly at it I find it could also handle being warmer than recommended but not cooler least for anycubics standard resin :)
Thanks for sharing, i use spackle paste used for drywall( the stuff that goes in between the tiles that has a consistency of toothpaste) to fill small holes, the cool thing is that it can be thinned with water and soften with water. I basically apply it over the holes, let it dry, dampen the surface with a brush then wipe away with a rag and it levels off almost perfectly, it can also be thinned before applying for very small holes and lines.
Brilliant to have Brit back in front of the camera. My favourite bit was that she was so excited at the end she kept waving the sabre in front of Bill’s face when he was trying to do the outro 😂. Great video!
Such a fun build!! Would be awesome to see a Gimli light blade battle axe with some clear resin edges. Or a Hobbit Orcrist with a clear resin built out edge from the light tube!!
Love this project. I'm a machinist and I have a little tip for metal to metal securing, like making sure bushings stay put. Use some green loctite. Its basically super glue for metal. 😁
@@punishedprops I use several. Depends on the project. Anycubic mostly but recently I've had great results with Elegoo Plant base Photopolimer Normal time exposure of 6 sec and bottom 45 sec.and for Anycubic Eco Resin Normal at 9 sec and bottom 55sec. I'm in a cold weather so lots of I side printing. That's why I use more plant based resins. Siraya is very reliable and works well.
awesome looking lightsaber! You could include a tiny borehole in the Cross guards (to let the air escape when you glue the threaded rod in). I'm still hoping for a red Kurgan-Sith lightsaber!
Maybe the best of this video is seeing the two of you together, having fun. You’re a great team ❤️ Should have put ‘unchained melody’ under the sanding montage though ;-)
The Elves would totally use kyber crystals in their blades ;) LOVE THIS!! MORE resin advice for the future: you can make resin filler much like your superglue & baby powder mix, using resin & baby powder. Like, mostly powder (8 or 10:1), and you can cure it with the UV flashlight. Maybe it's just as easy with the superglue, up to you! But it worked great on my ecto-goggle print I did recently.... also in my own Photon Mono X. Which works great when it works great.... I had a lot of learning curve and print failures to start, but it's going to get a good workout soon when I dive back into making Ghostbusters and Star Wars thingies :) You cracked me up with the Ghost scene :D
First of all… AMAZING!!!!! as per. Secondly, seeing you with your tweezers to reach inside handles and stuff made me think that maybe you should try some aquarium tweezers? I find then super handy for a lot of things as they are super long, just a thought. as always, much love!
to deal with the temperature issue you can get a heat bag, like a grow bag for gardening. I use one in my garage since I don't have temp control. Also if you are worried about strength or heat Siraya tech Blu resin is my go to, they have many resins for different applications.
So fun fact for limiting the pits from the supports if you put the print in some warm water after washing but before the final cure it makes the supports basically just fall off
I love you two so much, you've been such great teachers and inspiration to a little ol' ill prop girl like myself, you're very appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to share all of your hard work with us. Regarding the project, and this is probably something I should just look up myself, is there... any sort of like "flat" polycarbonate plastic if I wanted to say try to make a "glass" or "crystal" looking sword blade that you've worked with and recommend? I've made clear resin daggers before but I'd really like to make a sword, even try to make it light up like a lightsabre someday. Oh well, it's a project to keep percolating. Be safe and well everyone! Thanks again you two, you're so adorable
So glad we can inspire you with our work! We haven't made a transparent long blade ourselves, but Tethan Props uses thick sheets of Acrylic for his blades: ua-cam.com/video/Kum9PfYWTDw/v-deo.html Our local plastic supply shop is TAP Plastic and they're great at answering customer questions, but you may have a similar store in your area: www.tapplastics.com/
as an amateur lightsaber installer this was super entertaining! I'd love to see oyu guys mess with Proffie Lightsabers at some point! They have universal chassis systems, so you can hot-swap cores!
You guys are so cool! Think I met you guys once. I want to say you entered the Nightingale costume at Boise's Tree City Commic Con way back in the when.
FOR THE LOVE OF EVERYTHING remove your supports before you cure. it will help with all the clean up. You can run it under hot water to soften the supports and pull them off easy. Also flush cutters to remove supports is also good.
@@punishedprops OK cool. I know the typical route is cure then remove. Also another slight secret is that you can, very carefully, sand it before you cure to get is smoother. I have used this when I knew there was going to be sanding issues. Since its soft it will come off a little easier
Mild irony in using two shaping skills, one additive (3D printer) and the other reductive (lathe). 😉 Thanks for sharing this looked like a fun project!
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but if you submerge the resin in warm/hot water before curing the supports should be easier to remove with less damage to the print.
It’s funny, I have just dumped resin in the vat as it runs low for over a year. I never clean mine out. I would also recommend blending a little flexible resin in to make the parts less likely to shatter.
Video: [drill sounds] UA-cam CC: [music] ... Hm, yeah, it is pleasing, but I'm not sure I'd call it music. This is a pretty inspiring build, and you've got me considering a resin printer after all. I just can't get these kinds of details on my 2 FDM printers, or even my CNC router. I wish there wasn't so much post-processing on all of them, though. You guys make it look easy, but I know there's a lot of work there.
@@punishedprops I'm lucky enough to have those on occasion. The other thing I might recommend, and YMMV, is to have printed all four pieces vertically. This would've cut down on support divets (and they would've all been located in non-visible places). It might increase your print time, but I bet you could've fit all four parts on one print bed with them oriented like that.
If you're looking for a new utility knife, our Punished Props blade and refill pack is on sale! www.punishedprops.com/shop/foamsmith-utility-knife-bonus-10-pack-of-replacement-blades/
Fantastic project . . . and that sanding montage . . . literally laughing out loud!!!
Hahaha, so glad we made you laugh!
Unchained Melody was a bit expensive I'm guessing. :D
@@Unbreathless I should have sung it...
@@punishedprops only if it's the Elvis version
Bahaha
"it's not just good, it's good enough" 🤣 one of my favorite lines from Community!
That sanding montage was giving me Evan and Katelyn’s waiting montage vibes.
Hahaa! Totally!
I gotta admit, the reference to Ghost was one of the most adorably wholesome things I've ever seen.
The Katamari Damacy song break alone get's a like, but all around a great video.
HAHA! What an amazing, fabulous game.
Great build! The Highlander Lightsaber was my favorite, but now………..….. it’s one of my 2 favorites!
There can be only two!
@@punishedprops Skighlander!!
Tapping resin with a power drill?? Bill, my friend, you're a braver man than I!
Loved the Ghost reference, and the project turned out epic! Great job, guys!
I like to live dangerously. =)
That sanding montage was hilariously unexpected! Didn’t think you two had such a great sense of humor.
You guys are so great together! Thanks for the great video as always ^.^
You're welcome!
So great! You just convinced me of what I'm going to build my buddy for his upcoming 50th birthday.
Excellent!
The Ghost reference is hilarious. :) Great build!
Thanks!
Love love love this project! Excited to see you both jumping into some resin printing. The mono x and the wash and cure plus are fantastic!
I'm sensing a possible Uncle Jessy/Punished Props team up!!
Power Move! Pow!!
You know it buddy! We're gonna have a lot of fun with these machines.
Great build as always, Bill and Brit. Another fast way to fill resin divots left by supports and small holes, etc. is to use more resin. Brush a little on with a paintbrush and then instantly cure it with a UV flashlight. The flashlights can be found on Amazon for less than $20. Just make sure it is the right wavelength. I've even used it to build up gussets wo strengthen thin areas of prints.
Finally, one last tip. After you have washed the excess resin off in alcohol (but before curing) give the prints a bit of a soak in hot/warm water. It will soften the supports and they practically fall off the model as long as the tips aren't imbedded too far into the surface.
Excellent idea, thanks for sharing!
If you want an easier time taking supports off you can dip the print into hot water after cleaning but before curing and the supports just peel right off!
We've gotta try that!
Leaves less damage and saves a ton of time!
For the supports you can use light or medium supports placed automatically and then add a few heavy for extra strength. You can use the resin itself as a filler material and cure it with a UV flashlight
Oh man, I need to try the resin and UV flashlight trick.
@@punishedprops It works stupidly well but def wear a respirator as it gets stinky & toxic real quick!
@@UnvarnishedTarnished Thanks, will do! (I played bass for Stinky & Toxic)
@@punishedprops 😂 LOVE IT
@@punishedprops I use it all the time. Add baking soda (and even pigments) to your resin so it makes a paste and can help sometimes. Just be careful that curing resin with a UV light ( 405 nm) generates a LOT of heat and can melt PLA, ABS, or other plastics. Great job, I love your channel and energy.
A tip for printing hollow resin pieces like the handle is to place the piece more vertical not fully but about 75 degrees. Then place heavy supports at the bottom of the piece and also inside the hollow section instead of the outside so that there isn't any marks to get rid of. Works great if you want to preserve a lot of detail on the outer wall of the piece that sanding would destroy or if you're lazy like I am. It also gives you more room on the bed for other pieces but keep in mind the taller a print job is the longer it takes.
Thanks for the tip!
Great project and watch! The saber came out awesome! Nothing like having your own custom lightsaber.
for pits in resin, you can add just a little bit of uncured resin to the pit and then cure it. you still need to sand but that works well. you can also do that to hide seams just put some uncured resin on the seam and then cure.
That's a really fantastic idea!
No Ghosting! 😁 Another lovely addition to the collection. And more reminders that (nearly) anything can be fixed with a little body filler. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome!
Jon Snow's Longclaw would make an incredible lightsaber, or Ned Stark's Ice
Yes! I'm thinking a blue blade?
@@punishedprops Or do catspaw like a lightsaber dagger 🗡️
Loved the Ghost sanding segment
I love these designs. Been trying to work out a Flame sword like in Game of Thrones.
That would be spectacular!
A threaded rod might actually be a good idea for simple fact that it gives more places for the glue to grab onto. So even though it wasn't intended I think it actually was the better option.
Yeah definitely a bonus.
Getting a wood lathe and turning myself a wooden handle for a lightsaber has been on my TODO for a few years now.
Love the personal touches you guys added.
Loving the process and you guys ribbing off each other having fun 😀
Thanks so much!
Oooh another lightsaber mashup! You and Tethan are the only people I've seen do these mash-ups and did it amazingly! Also what about a Witcher lightsaber next??
A Witcher lightsaber would be siiiiick!
@@punishedprops hell yeah it would! But will it be the steel or silver one?
…both? Both.
Screen protector is also a must I learned the hard way 😅 I also learned about temp early and now point a tower heater directly at it I find it could also handle being warmer than recommended but not cooler least for anycubics standard resin :)
Thanks for sharing, i use spackle paste used for drywall( the stuff that goes in between the tiles that has a consistency of toothpaste) to fill small holes, the cool thing is that it can be thinned with water and soften with water. I basically apply it over the holes, let it dry, dampen the surface with a brush then wipe away with a rag and it levels off almost perfectly, it can also be thinned before applying for very small holes and lines.
That Krylon all in one textured black looks way more convincing as leather than I expected. Might have to give it a try.
Ooh yeah its nice stuff.
You are the best couple. I love it so much. Miss you guys!
Thanks so much old friend! We miss you too!
You guys and the ghost sanding. Lol, super dorks, i love it
Appreciated!
Brilliant to have Brit back in front of the camera. My favourite bit was that she was so excited at the end she kept waving the sabre in front of Bill’s face when he was trying to do the outro 😂. Great video!
I would absolutely love to see you two tackle an armor set from the video game: the surge well after making the exo-rig of course
That Ghost parody. You guys are adorable.
Hah! Thanks. 😄
Such a fun build!! Would be awesome to see a Gimli light blade battle axe with some clear resin edges. Or a Hobbit Orcrist with a clear resin built out edge from the light tube!!
I love it!
Y’all are great together. Great tutorial… and fun too!
Thanks so much!
Love the ghost reference you tossed in there when I least expected it
Glad you enjoyed our brand of shenanigans! =)
"The sword once broken and hastily re-glued."
Love this project. I'm a machinist and I have a little tip for metal to metal securing, like making sure bushings stay put. Use some green loctite. Its basically super glue for metal. 😁
Great video . Sanding segment was really hilarious and a little bit weird .
Thanks!
You guys are so wholesome and dorky, I love it. Internet needs some more of that. ❤
I like the Ghost spoof, kinda difficult to pull off with sanding lol.
HA! Right?!
I have the same machine and instead of IPA I use Mean Green Cleaner and works as well as the IPA without all the severe irritants
That's great to hear! What kind of resin are you using? We're trying out Blu by Siraya Tech now.
@@punishedprops I use several. Depends on the project. Anycubic mostly but recently I've had great results with Elegoo Plant base Photopolimer Normal time exposure of 6 sec and bottom 45 sec.and for Anycubic Eco Resin Normal at 9 sec and bottom 55sec. I'm in a cold weather so lots of I side printing. That's why I use more plant based resins.
Siraya is very reliable and works well.
That came out AMAZING. I'm super excited for the future projects you guys are going to make with that resin printer!
I love that super glue and baby powder trick! I would have never thought of that!
you guys are so awesome. i love seeing you both together in front of the camera, and this was such an awesome project. literally couples goals!!!
Awe, thanks so much! =)
That Ghost ref in the beginning. Cute. Very jealous of your lightsaber Brit
Ha! Thanks! 😃
awesome looking lightsaber! You could include a tiny borehole in the Cross guards (to let the air escape when you glue the threaded rod in).
I'm still hoping for a red Kurgan-Sith lightsaber!
That would be a spectacular build!
Glad to see you two back here. 😀
Thanks for watching!
So cool love the dynamic duo being together in vids again! That ghost sanding montage had me dieing!
Glad you enjoyed our shenanigans! =)
Beautiful end result!
And the sanding scene played out just as well as predicted in the previews! 😂🤣
Glad you enjoyed it!
You guys are amazing and adorable. Thank you for all that you do. 💛
You’re welcome!
OMG! That Sanding Montage!!!! It's true... a couple that sands together, sticks together...
You guys are just perfect for each other…great video!
Maybe the best of this video is seeing the two of you together, having fun. You’re a great team ❤️
Should have put ‘unchained melody’ under the sanding montage though ;-)
The Elves would totally use kyber crystals in their blades ;)
LOVE THIS!!
MORE resin advice for the future: you can make resin filler much like your superglue & baby powder mix, using resin & baby powder. Like, mostly powder (8 or 10:1), and you can cure it with the UV flashlight. Maybe it's just as easy with the superglue, up to you! But it worked great on my ecto-goggle print I did recently.... also in my own Photon Mono X. Which works great when it works great.... I had a lot of learning curve and print failures to start, but it's going to get a good workout soon when I dive back into making Ghostbusters and Star Wars thingies :)
You cracked me up with the Ghost scene :D
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Thank you for that sanding montage, after the day I had I needed that laugh. Awesome job on the saber!
You're welcome! =)
That's a great build! Awesome!
Beautiful lightsaber!
First of all… AMAZING!!!!! as per. Secondly, seeing you with your tweezers to reach inside handles and stuff made me think that maybe you should try some aquarium tweezers? I find then super handy for a lot of things as they are super long, just a thought. as always, much love!
Okay, you guys got an Actual Factual LOL out of me with the sanding bit.
Haha! Splendid!😃
The ‘end credits’ …….
** Makes me happy every time I turn it on!
** Sounded dirty!
😂😂
bahaha
Look forward to your sla printing! You guys actually deserve one! Unlike the form3 sitting wasted in adam’s cave
Love it so much can't wait to print and make one for myself.
Any chances of seeing you make a set of dice? 3d print, resin pour, big foam set?
that flat grey primer is great stuff, i use it for all of my warhammer models too!
Oh yeah its great!
to deal with the temperature issue you can get a heat bag, like a grow bag for gardening. I use one in my garage since I don't have temp control. Also if you are worried about strength or heat Siraya tech Blu resin is my go to, they have many resins for different applications.
We actually JUST ordered of that Siraya tech resin!
Also you want to use PPE the sanding dust is bad to breath in but I’m sure you know that
So fun fact for limiting the pits from the supports if you put the print in some warm water after washing but before the final cure it makes the supports basically just fall off
I see people are leaving great tips for working with resin printing, your next prints should be even easier to process now!
You know it!
Incredibly interesting and entertaining.
I don't know which I like better, both are awesome.
Thanks so much!
Fantastic build and fantastic video 👍🏻
Thank you so much!
Agreed on the recommendation to make a custom saber! I’ve made a few Captain Marvel sabers :)
Love this build, such a cool idea!!! You guys killed it!!!👍👍
Thanks so much!
I love you two so much, you've been such great teachers and inspiration to a little ol' ill prop girl like myself, you're very appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to share all of your hard work with us. Regarding the project, and this is probably something I should just look up myself, is there... any sort of like "flat" polycarbonate plastic if I wanted to say try to make a "glass" or "crystal" looking sword blade that you've worked with and recommend? I've made clear resin daggers before but I'd really like to make a sword, even try to make it light up like a lightsabre someday. Oh well, it's a project to keep percolating. Be safe and well everyone! Thanks again you two, you're so adorable
So glad we can inspire you with our work! We haven't made a transparent long blade ourselves, but Tethan Props uses thick sheets of Acrylic for his blades: ua-cam.com/video/Kum9PfYWTDw/v-deo.html Our local plastic supply shop is TAP Plastic and they're great at answering customer questions, but you may have a similar store in your area: www.tapplastics.com/
Great video! Love this so much! Good to see you guys!
as an amateur lightsaber installer this was super entertaining! I'd love to see oyu guys mess with Proffie Lightsabers at some point! They have universal chassis systems, so you can hot-swap cores!
Y’all are adorable, thanks for making my workday that much better. ✌️
You're welcome!
You guys are so cool! Think I met you guys once. I want to say you entered the Nightingale costume at Boise's Tree City Commic Con way back in the when.
Oh yeah I remember that con! I had my Skyrim Draugr costume. I believe the Nightingale was someone else.
Sanding montage is on point
We do so much sanding, we need to find new ways to make it fun!
You guys have too much fun!
A Jedi Gandalf or Sith Sarumon cosplay would be cool. You could do the staff ends for the sabers (like Tethan did)
Oh yeah! Great idea.
FOR THE LOVE OF EVERYTHING remove your supports before you cure. it will help with all the clean up. You can run it under hot water to soften the supports and pull them off easy. Also flush cutters to remove supports is also good.
We did remove the supports before curing. The resin already felt cured, strangely, too. We’ll have to try a shorter exposure for each layer.
@@punishedprops OK cool. I know the typical route is cure then remove. Also another slight secret is that you can, very carefully, sand it before you cure to get is smoother. I have used this when I knew there was going to be sanding issues. Since its soft it will come off a little easier
@@mikem8518 that's super clever!
Mild irony in using two shaping skills, one additive (3D printer) and the other reductive (lathe). 😉 Thanks for sharing this looked like a fun project!
You're welcome!
24:49 “It’s not just good, it’s good enough.”
Out of curiosity, was that a reference to North of the Border perchance?
It was! 😁
I can’t unsee that sanding montage! Hahaha!
lol ghost reference! so great!! love you guys
We like to have fun! =D
21:49 Bill really missed the chance for "These are not the holes you are looking for!"
Ahh missed opportunity!
You always do such quality work. Love it!
Thank you so much!
Really nice job, they both look great!
Thank you!
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but if you submerge the resin in warm/hot water before curing the supports should be easier to remove with less damage to the print.
Great tip!
Resin printer time do do do Resin printer time.
You two are adorable together btw.
It’s funny, I have just dumped resin in the vat as it runs low for over a year. I never clean mine out. I would also recommend blending a little flexible resin in to make the parts less likely to shatter.
Ooh, thanks for sharing the info and tips.
I'd love to see you guys do some Dark Souls prop weapons, like the Greatsword of Artorias for example.
Video: [drill sounds]
UA-cam CC: [music]
... Hm, yeah, it is pleasing, but I'm not sure I'd call it music.
This is a pretty inspiring build, and you've got me considering a resin printer after all. I just can't get these kinds of details on my 2 FDM printers, or even my CNC router. I wish there wasn't so much post-processing on all of them, though. You guys make it look easy, but I know there's a lot of work there.
Omg the ghost!sanding montage.
thats so cool I love LOTR and I like SW ace cross over :)
You can use the same resin you print with in a UV safe squeeze bottle as a glue - just cure with a UV Flashlight.
Great idea!
@@punishedprops I'm lucky enough to have those on occasion.
The other thing I might recommend, and YMMV, is to have printed all four pieces vertically. This would've cut down on support divets (and they would've all been located in non-visible places). It might increase your print time, but I bet you could've fit all four parts on one print bed with them oriented like that.