Great tutorial Mike! Quick update and fix regarding the white balance issue with Sony cameras that you mentioned; I also shoot with the Sony A7S iii and regarding the WB issue, a complete fix (if you want it corrected in the field) is to use the Flashpoint R2 SP (single pin) trigger. This completely fixes the “warm” white balance flash shots. Also, the method you mentioned about using a Canon trigger on the Sony doesn’t work unfortunately...I purchased the same trigger you’re using in this video but the Canon model and it does not physically fit in the hot shoe. I tried a Fuji version as well and same thing, won’t fit in the hot shoe...Regardless, anyone reading this and want the white balance issue fixed, use the Flashpoint R2 SP trigger...and they are only $25USD. Thank you again! :)
Thanks so much for sharing this valuable info! I had heard that it works buying the trigger for a different brand but obviously I haven’t tried it myself. Hate to steer anyone in the wrong direction. I’m gonna pin your comment so appears at the top of the thread so people will see it. Thanks again!
Hey Andrew,. I looked for the Flashpoint R2 SP trigger, but saw a bunch of different models with the same name. I shoot on a sony a6400. Do you have a link to one that would work and fix wb issues for my camera? I was looking on amazon.
@@rumirumarr6452 hi Rumi. It looks like it is no longer sold on Amazon and Adorama has them on backorder, however here is the direct link you would need; www.adorama.com/fprrr2spt.html
@@helloholmes So do you buy this and the xpro s? to make it work properly? Or is the above link all you need? I'm confused. Do I need both, or just one to make the ad 200 work on my sony 6600? THANKS!
I had to shift my mindset to: flash the hell outta the room so that it looks like a terrible 1980s image. Then shoot an ambient shot of the room. Shoot another shot of JUST the windows perfectly exposed. Bring em all into to LR/PS and have fun! Thanks Mike. Love it.
You are one of the few RE Photogs who takes a shot of the window area to use in Post. To me, this is a must for all interior shots! Well...given the weather is decent outside to! But this is the mark of a good RE Photog I say, attention to detail is everything!
@@bobwiegers Yeah, totally know what you are saying when I was first shown the technique many years ago. It looks unnatural, but to most people, they would not pick up on it.
Yeah I've checked out my new client's previous stuff and all of it has that. I can see how it would appeal to the end user so I guess we'll give it a go. Glad I know how now!
Requires a lot of skill if you introduce a lot of things that need to be skilled out. Seems like a whole lot of work to get to where a bracketed shot would’ve got you.
As a hobby photographer who likes to learn new techniques, I found this video really well explained and demonstrated. The best I have found on UA-cam. Thanks.
I just watched his video on HDR photography, which is so much more straightforward. Unless there's some advantage or necessity to flambient, I don't understand why a real estate photographer would buy the extra equipment and spend 5x as much time editing photos for a job.
@palebeachbum You wouldn't be doing that if you were just battling it out with competition for the most RnG HDR shoots in your area, at the cheapest price. Flambient evidently produces much higher quality, which ultimately means that you charge more, shoot & edit less, enjoy your life daily and work with better clientele. Implement PS actions and LR presets and you're cruising through edits! Don't over do it. So many people do. The lighting equipment isn't too much of a financial hit either (was about $500 CDN). Shop wisely. It's an investment and a good one at that. I switched over from HDR and only being a few months into my business, I've noticed it attracts a different clientele. All the best.
@@forumsnowsoldier I appreciate the input from someone doing the work. I'm in the research and learning stage before I get started with clients. I may delve into flambient to try it on for size later, but for now HDR seems more straightforward and a time saver on-site. Good for someone like myself less skilled and slower paced. I don't know how to create or run Photoshop actions and Lightroom presents yet. Much to learn still. What I will say about so much of the pro real estate photography in my area though is that they way over-enhance their images. Interiors are way too bright with too little depth, creating an artificial CGI vibe, with window pulls so dark it looks like a Sears portrait backdrop outside every window. These photographers clearly have the knowledge and skill to do the extra work required to pull off that look, but IMO it looks terrible. As a real estate photographer on UA-cam stated, if your photos look like they've been enhanced, you've gone too far. So I'm aiming for a less harsh, more natural HDR look. I recently saw images from a flambient shoot in a home with small rooms and it had some issues. Flash showing on shiny surfaces like glossy dark wood kitchen cabinets and tile in the bathrooms. It was kinda ugly and harsh for all of the extra post production required to blend. Maybe flambient works better in large rooms. I just find HDR to look far more natural overall and less post production work. I'll spend more time learning about flambient and analyzing the work of other local pros.
@palebeachbum Spend lots of time researching both techniques and find something that suits your skillset/style. HDR/brackets may be quicker when shooting onsite, but to hand blend them correctly for professional use, takes WAY longer than flambient editing. The 50/50 technique used by many will get you by with 85% of shoots and will outshine HDR in almost all ways, all day long. I don't spend much more time on site shooting flash then I did with bracketing but when I get home to edit (I don't outsource) I fly through them as most of the work is done on site. Proper trigger setups with center pin isolation and shutter releases will speed up the process even more! Have a good look at the market you're in and decide what's good for you. I don't like working with clients who don't have a large focus on marketing anyway (it's always easy to tell). I'll leave those shoots for the RnG HDR photographers charging less and less to beat out their competition. Also, sounds to me like some of these edits are over done, or edited by amateurs. I don't stress window pulls unless the view is something spectacular that potential buyers might be interested in seeing & I make this clear when booking shoots. It can really draw the attention away from the interior space and that's not something you want. Also I'm not quite sure where you're seeing the editing for HDR is much quicker than Flambient? If you're just HDR merging in lightroom and running through a few presets/touchups then maybe this is the case but not when hand blending. I suggest you do a little more research in that regard. Alot of people on here breaking it down and making it seem much more time consuming then it actually is! (Presets and Actions FTW!) Hope this helps! All the best.
Two flashes work well for most homes. Yes high end homes with high ceilings and large windows will require more lighting but don't underestimate what you can do with two flashes and multiple frames then editing using layers in photoshop. Takes longer and yes stronger lighting speeds it up but when starting out it's a good idea to control your budget.
I've been experimenting with Flambient, and this is one of the simplest explanations I've seen. Thank you for making everything (even editing) so easy to understand.
Best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I used it for the first time last weekend. Much better than using HDR in ambient lighting. Keep up the great work.
Thank you sssoooo much fof this video. I have, like so many others, watched others try to explain flambient and editing. You knocked ot out-of-the-park. GREAT job. Again, thank you.
Great video!!! Im debating between real estate photography and sports photography. Im starting to like the real estate photography. I like the outcome of how you make lighting work for you and the look of the finish product. Amazing!! Your videos are educational and Im learning a lot!! Keep up the good work!!
Ive been asking for this video for some time now. Thank you so much !!! It is so helpful! Thank you for going over ALL the details as for some photographers it is easy but when you're starting out (like me) it isn't as obvious. Thanks again
Awesome video! I have been using HDR for awhile (I mainly shoot rental property photos here in Australia and have been able to get away with it) but wanting to get out of HDR and use flambient. Your video shows a simple start to finish process which is easy to follow. Cheers!
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography I currently shoot with a SB700 speedlight and will be getting a Godox AD200 Pro at some stage. I need to do some comparisons between the two in terms of power output to ensure I'm achieving the right results.
@@Tommytoolsqueezer If you do an automatic HDR, I would agree. But if you use a hand blended HDR method, it is at least 95% as good as flambient and much faster method. I would say, only luxury high priced home should use flambient. For normal type houses hand blended HDR is a fast and very pleasing method.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography I use back button focus method, I use af button at the back of my nikon to focus and then shutter button to take the shots.
This is great information and they look great, but for the competitive market this is wayyyy to much time spent and I would be editing for forever. I would definitely consider this for high end listings though!
I agree....seems like this would add another 30 to 40 minutes on site with an average sized home. Realtors can be very impatient while on site. You'll know you're slow when they ask, "Is everything is ok?"
1 flash. 1 exposure. Point flash at ceiling. Slightly over expose windows, grade and colour correct in post. Modern cameras can recover most window details. 95% of clients will not be able to distinguish. If the ceiling is too high or room is too large, consider skipping the flash entirely; We don’t use flash in Real Estate videography and get on just fine with colour grading in post. Unless this is like a $2M+ property, this video overcomplicates everything.
@@trip_the_deep And how much do you charge for your house? I charge $2420 for each display home. Most video work is crap and I always wonder why they get amateurs to shoot the HDTV reno homes.
Thanks for this great in-depth tutorial! Really convinced me to stick to using my overseas editor and focus on shooting more properties. Seriously, what busy photographer has the time to go through that editing process??
Excellent tutorial - are you concerned about how many times you touch the camera between shots? Seems like every time I touch it there is some subtle movement.
My thought exactly. I was getting anxiety peaks every time he altered the setting on camera. Using tethertools with an ipad or some equivalent is the only guaranteed way of avoiding it. Also, the problem is MUCH worse when the tripod is on a carpet, especially a thick shag carpet.
Fantastic and well instructed video! I would like to see you do a video that puts the HDR method against the flambient method. Be cool to time it, as if you are in the field and trying to keep an expeditious work flow. Seems flambient is adding a lot of "bulk" to the process, and would think a good HDR artist could match the result... your thoughts? With the new Sony A bodies... low light scenarios and brackets with a low ISO would keep things clean. Side note , using the a7S3? How does your sharpness compare to your a7III or an R series body? Keep up the good work!
Definitely a comparison video coming in the future! Yes, I think you can get similar results with HDR when done well. Good hand blended HDR is more work on the back end while flambient is more work on the front end bu yield comparable results. I’m loving the a7siii! Quality is similar to my a7iii but smaller files which is great. We don’t need a lot of resolution for real estate photos so in my mind it’s perfect. The video features are fantastic. The a7sii was my main cam before I got the a7iii so it’s familiar territory for me.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography Nice and good thinking! Have been curious for the S3 to use for my walk thru vids. I am using the rIV and files are HUGE and slow down LR... Looking forward to that comparison vid.
@@snotlobber yeah I don’t have any experience with the R series as I’ve never really had a need for that much resolution for anything I do. Great cameras though of course!
Are you doing Flambient method on EVERY shot for a house shoot, or just the most marketable ones? when i started messing with real estate photography lightly 2-ish years ago I was into the flambient method. However, at this point in time with software like Photomatix Pro (and others) stacking exposure brackets and blending HDR is pretty dang easy and fast. Since this September, in my last 150 shoots the only light I've used when ambient is not enough is a head lamp or flash light bounced off ceiling when it's too dark, while the brackets rip. or they have bulbs out or missing say in a laundry room, or bath room. Of course, agents that have their $hi* together usually make sure all bulbs are fixtures are working, but many times they are just flipping something and doing minimal effort. Anyhow, I'm just not sold on spending my extra time doing Flambient anymore (unless it was a super awesome property that "deserved" it), when blending brackets has become so easy and also high quality when done right. THOUGHTS ???
The majority of my shoots are bracketed shots. I use lights on higher end shoots and when I feel it’s worth while. I like both methods but definitely feel that good results can be achieved either way.
I'm thinking of offering flambient. How long does a 40-50 photos shoot take with this method? On site and in post. Seems incredibly time consuming compared to HDR. Where can you cut time? I'm shooting significant volume and I want to incorporate flambient, but labor time is a concern.
I think most of the time you only need to shoot the images with large windows like this etc. You have to learn to charge for your work as well. I charge at least 5 times what others charge and people come to me if they want a high end job done.
You explained everything nicely, but don't you think the end result is over-edited? Everything is so perfect that the room looks flat, one-dimensional. What makes any object, and a room, interesting and 3D is light/shade play. By eliminating shades and so called imperfections the space does not look real, including the picture outdoors which is way too clear. I see a lot of this in interior design books and in my opinion the rooms lose their charm in an effort to produce a "perfect" image. Ambient photo that you took first was way more pleasing to the eye than the final one. Of course, I am not a pro and this is not meant as a criticism, just an observation.
I agree, but it's a battle of personal preferences. Some RE photographers do too much editing work on their images and they turn out looking very artificial.
Hey! I think it depends on the properties. If its just a regular residential home I think you can get away with HDR. If its a higher end listing I'd say use the flash/ambient.. I take it case by case bases.
Another great video! So much to try. I shoot with Sony A7RIII/Godox trigger pro s/ AD200pro with HD200R round heads and AK-R1 dome. I know its more equipment but I might have try 2 AD200Pro with 2 Silver umbrellas just to see if I can take less shots. Just trying to limit post production masking. If I can get it done with three shots at the property that would be my preferred route.
I noticed that too in the video, the Sony autofocus is good, much better than my Nikon Full Frame. I use autofocus then lock it down on the Sony. Works great.
Man, that ceiling blend has me cringing over here. I usually just switch the blend of the layer to Lighten so I don’t accidentally brush the darker elements of the underlying photo into the final blend. Great video otherwise! 😊
I see what you’re talking about for sure but I don’t mind it. The biggest thing for me is how fake those windows look. Even though it’s a blended shot it almost looks like it’s just copy and paste it in. Should’ve been much darker especially with that big ugly telephone pole is a highlighted feature. Being waterfront is wonderful but not when there’s a huge telephone pole featured. I would’ve blown out the windows
To fix the pin issue with the trigger. You could probably put a tiny dab of rubber cement on it to insulate it and prevent it from screwing with you white balance. The rubber cement is also soft enough that I bet you could peel it off too if needed.
I love these tutorials, but realistically, how many shoots are you fitting into a day with all that edit time? I run my business a little differently in terms of workflow. If I was spending this amount of time blending flambient photos I'm not sure I could keep up with my current workload
Good tutorial for beginners..Will try few things from this next shoot. But i couldnt deliver this kind of photo to client. Left lower roof looks like its burned and the last window frame has flashspot on it + reflection.
I’m curious? Why not use the lighten blend mode to blend the images by brightening the base layer in any areas that are darker than layers above it and then mask out any unwanted areas of certain photos rather than manually blending each image? Is there an advantage to blending them manually?
Hey when you look at flash shot. Do you look at your histogram? Wonder if their is a pattern you guys might look at to help in post or keep the colors more real. Thx
I wonder the same. For what the competition locally charges in my area there's no way they are doing this time consuming flambient, otherwise they're working for $5/hr.
I use a polarizer everyday and it was on for this video. It doesn’t do a lot for window views but is very helpful for floors and things of that nature. I
It looks like you have a ND filter on your lense? When shooting inside real estate (granted this shot had big windows and a lot of ambient light im sure) do you always have a filter on? An idea for another video based around What kind are you using, and how you adjust it if it's a variable ND would be a great!
It’s a circular polarizer filter and yes I do have a video on it: Should You Use a Circular Polarizer Filter for Real Estate Photography? ua-cam.com/video/y8yUAbkbTE0/v-deo.html
For me I’m not a big fan of the perfectly exposed windows in a room. It’s unnatural even to the human eye. Our eyes only have a certain amount of dynamic range. stare outside and you can see naturally your room becomes darker then switch your eyes to a dark corner and you can see that your windows become brighter. For good reference, I’ll check architectural digest and Better Homes & Gardens from time to time to see what the top architectural photographer so doing. For the most part they usually have completely blown out windows. Especially if there’s not a huge vista or something spectacular to look at outside. Your subject is the interior of the house not necessarily a street with telephone poles and a bunch of other houses off in the distance. Flash definitely has an advantage if used properly. Although you did forget there’s a big dead shadow behind that couch under the pine poster that I would’ve lit up. But I think for fast workflow you can do most of this with three or four bracketed shots and call it a day and get 90% the quality with about a quarter of the work.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography Yes, usually in the end the client is always right. But when they insist on some thing that may make future clients hesitate to call you is where the balance needs to be careful
Thanks for this! I'm trying new methods and for some reason, when I'm working on my layer mask like you do around 15:30, I'm not getting any white from the ceilings...it's painting black and it appears all the things are set up the same as you have. Appreciate your time and keep up the good work!
I see you are using AF on separate images for blending.... Moving parts are not a very smart idea as it won't pixel match when you blend. Also have you tried importing Via Bridge as you have all the appropriate adjustments available and it makes the workflow easier without creating a library for disposable images. Nice content thanks for helping the community
Great tutorial. Can I use a canon trigger to fire the godox flash on a canon camera. Were you saying the canon trigger would work on the Sony camera to fire the godox (3:49- 4:00)
I'm following all of your instructions and for some reason I keep getting a ghosting effect on light fixtures even after I've done auto align layers in Photoshop. Can you possibly shed some light on this issue. I would attach a photo to show you but it doesn't let me in these comment sections. Thank you in advance
@InsideRealEstatePhotography I think the tripod must have shifted because it doesn't do it on all the photos, only some of them. Do you do 1 on 1 video/screen share editing with step by step teaching? If so, how do I go about doing that with you? I've pretty much got the flambient dialed in on smaller rooms but still struggling with larger rooms.
lots of great tips, but my question, as a newbie to real estate photography but a long time nature photographer: is this kinda result the industry standard? seeing through the windows and all that? because my artist eye says it looks like crap. but will my (potential) clients be looking for this?
That is a LOT of time for one image. At the current RE photo rates, how do you justify spending so much time on one image, especially of you are delivering 30 or so images per shoot?
Its up to you how detailed you want to get. Just demonstrating what you can do with it. You can simply blend ambient and flash frames together in about 2 minutes and move onto the next if you want.
You glazed over how you triggered your camera when you went over to take the additional flash shot at that low ceiling in the living room. did you change your camera setting to 10 seconds or do you have a remote trigger? I am very interested to know. It's a pain having to reset the timer on the camera all the time between 2 seconds and 10 seconds. I have some Cactus triggers, but they are a pain too. Mine dont snap in tight to the camera/flash and fall out and batteries go flying everywhere. haha. Do you use something else? Let us know! Thanks for the vid! Edit: I see you have a small remote. Can you tell me about that?
That's a lotta work. I believe you can achieve similar results with HDR either in Lightroom or Photomatix. in about one tenth of the time. And a lot less expensive. Just my opinion.
He also made a great tutorial on HDR photography doing a small shoot in his home beginning to end. HDR seems like the no-brainer solution to me after watching both videos.
Thanks so much for this video. I have been getting ready to pull the trigger on buying some new equipment and stepping up to flash photography. Thanks for breaking this down, your info is very helpful. I am not sure what the difference between the ad200 and the ad200 pro are though. Don’t want to get one and wish I got the other. Like the fact that the round head distributes the light more even. Please let me know. Thanks!
For real estate there’s not a whole lot of benefit of the pro over the standard version so the standard is probably the more practical way to go for this type of work and you won’t be missing anything.
He Mike - how are you triggering the Transmitter (on the hotshot) with a Transceiver? You're pushing a button on a Transceiver - that is communicating with the Godox/Flashpoint Transmitter. How can that work? Can the Transmitter RECEIVE a command from the Transceiver?
Do you set a timer on the camera and then walk over to where you want to shoot the flash from, hold it until the timer goes off? I'm confused on the process
I'm trying to use a tablet (which I want to buy) with the Sony a7iii, and my (2x) AD200 + XPro Trigger. I can buy a new trigger system (if needed) to make this work... The tablet is used for viewing the shots on a larger screen. If possible also trigger the camera/flash from it, if possible. I want to be able to change the strobe settings/turn them off when away from the camera & lights - How do I do this? How do I also shoot the camera wirelessly and have the strobes go off?
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great tutorial Mike! Quick update and fix regarding the white balance issue with Sony cameras that you mentioned; I also shoot with the Sony A7S iii and regarding the WB issue, a complete fix (if you want it corrected in the field) is to use the Flashpoint R2 SP (single pin) trigger. This completely fixes the “warm” white balance flash shots. Also, the method you mentioned about using a Canon trigger on the Sony doesn’t work unfortunately...I purchased the same trigger you’re using in this video but the Canon model and it does not physically fit in the hot shoe. I tried a Fuji version as well and same thing, won’t fit in the hot shoe...Regardless, anyone reading this and want the white balance issue fixed, use the Flashpoint R2 SP trigger...and they are only $25USD.
Thank you again! :)
Thanks so much for sharing this valuable info! I had heard that it works buying the trigger for a different brand but obviously I haven’t tried it myself. Hate to steer anyone in the wrong direction. I’m gonna pin your comment so appears at the top of the thread so people will see it. Thanks again!
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography you are most welcome! :)
Hey Andrew,. I looked for the Flashpoint R2 SP trigger, but saw a bunch of different models with the same name. I shoot on a sony a6400. Do you have a link to one that would work and fix wb issues for my camera? I was looking on amazon.
@@rumirumarr6452 hi Rumi. It looks like it is no longer sold on Amazon and Adorama has them on backorder, however here is the direct link you would need; www.adorama.com/fprrr2spt.html
@@helloholmes So do you buy this and the xpro s? to make it work properly? Or is the above link all you need? I'm confused. Do I need both, or just one to make the ad 200 work on my sony 6600? THANKS!
I had to shift my mindset to: flash the hell outta the room so that it looks like a terrible 1980s image. Then shoot an ambient shot of the room. Shoot another shot of JUST the windows perfectly exposed. Bring em all into to LR/PS and have fun! Thanks Mike. Love it.
Without a doubt this man is the best photography instructor I have seen on UA-cam 👏👏👏
You are one of the few RE Photogs who takes a shot of the window area to use in Post. To me, this is a must for all interior shots! Well...given the weather is decent outside to! But this is the mark of a good RE Photog I say, attention to detail is everything!
to each their own, but it looks so, so weird to me.
@@bobwiegers Yeah, totally know what you are saying when I was first shown the technique many years ago. It looks unnatural, but to most people, they would not pick up on it.
Yeah I've checked out my new client's previous stuff and all of it has that. I can see how it would appeal to the end user so I guess we'll give it a go. Glad I know how now!
RE photography requires so much skill. i don't think people realize what goes into it
And money. You look at one video and someone is recommending that you buy this and that.
Requires a lot of skill if you introduce a lot of things that need to be skilled out. Seems like a whole lot of work to get to where a bracketed shot would’ve got you.
@@jav_eee A bracketed hdr shot comes knowhere close to a flambient shot in my opinion. I guess if your going for speed vs quality..
@@BradleyProulx but this result doesn't look better and took 5x longer. Time is money.
As a hobby photographer who likes to learn new techniques, I found this video really well explained and demonstrated. The best I have found on UA-cam. Thanks.
I'm watching this in 2024. I just did my first UK house shoot, & wow this tutorial was amazing! It worked perfectly. Thanks so much & I've subscribed
Good idea about pistol grip.
1 point to add is that we can control the flash power right off the flashes rear dial. Save a lot of time.
This was intense. This was way advanced for me. I use flash and bracket and combine my images all in LR. This made me feel anxious 😰 but great stuff!
I just watched his video on HDR photography, which is so much more straightforward. Unless there's some advantage or necessity to flambient, I don't understand why a real estate photographer would buy the extra equipment and spend 5x as much time editing photos for a job.
@palebeachbum You wouldn't be doing that if you were just battling it out with competition for the most RnG HDR shoots in your area, at the cheapest price. Flambient evidently produces much higher quality, which ultimately means that you charge more, shoot & edit less, enjoy your life daily and work with better clientele. Implement PS actions and LR presets and you're cruising through edits! Don't over do it. So many people do. The lighting equipment isn't too much of a financial hit either (was about $500 CDN). Shop wisely. It's an investment and a good one at that. I switched over from HDR and only being a few months into my business, I've noticed it attracts a different clientele. All the best.
@@forumsnowsoldier I appreciate the input from someone doing the work. I'm in the research and learning stage before I get started with clients. I may delve into flambient to try it on for size later, but for now HDR seems more straightforward and a time saver on-site. Good for someone like myself less skilled and slower paced. I don't know how to create or run Photoshop actions and Lightroom presents yet. Much to learn still. What I will say about so much of the pro real estate photography in my area though is that they way over-enhance their images. Interiors are way too bright with too little depth, creating an artificial CGI vibe, with window pulls so dark it looks like a Sears portrait backdrop outside every window. These photographers clearly have the knowledge and skill to do the extra work required to pull off that look, but IMO it looks terrible. As a real estate photographer on UA-cam stated, if your photos look like they've been enhanced, you've gone too far. So I'm aiming for a less harsh, more natural HDR look. I recently saw images from a flambient shoot in a home with small rooms and it had some issues. Flash showing on shiny surfaces like glossy dark wood kitchen cabinets and tile in the bathrooms. It was kinda ugly and harsh for all of the extra post production required to blend. Maybe flambient works better in large rooms. I just find HDR to look far more natural overall and less post production work. I'll spend more time learning about flambient and analyzing the work of other local pros.
@palebeachbum Spend lots of time researching both techniques and find something that suits your skillset/style. HDR/brackets may be quicker when shooting onsite, but to hand blend them correctly for professional use, takes WAY longer than flambient editing. The 50/50 technique used by many will get you by with 85% of shoots and will outshine HDR in almost all ways, all day long. I don't spend much more time on site shooting flash then I did with bracketing but when I get home to edit (I don't outsource) I fly through them as most of the work is done on site. Proper trigger setups with center pin isolation and shutter releases will speed up the process even more! Have a good look at the market you're in and decide what's good for you. I don't like working with clients who don't have a large focus on marketing anyway (it's always easy to tell). I'll leave those shoots for the RnG HDR photographers charging less and less to beat out their competition. Also, sounds to me like some of these edits are over done, or edited by amateurs. I don't stress window pulls unless the view is something spectacular that potential buyers might be interested in seeing & I make this clear when booking shoots. It can really draw the attention away from the interior space and that's not something you want. Also I'm not quite sure where you're seeing the editing for HDR is much quicker than Flambient? If you're just HDR merging in lightroom and running through a few presets/touchups then maybe this is the case but not when hand blending. I suggest you do a little more research in that regard. Alot of people on here breaking it down and making it seem much more time consuming then it actually is! (Presets and Actions FTW!) Hope this helps! All the best.
@@forumsnowsoldier not sure about the edit less, hdr on lightroom is one button
Two flashes work well for most homes. Yes high end homes with high ceilings and large windows will require more lighting but don't underestimate what you can do with two flashes and multiple frames then editing using layers in photoshop. Takes longer and yes stronger lighting speeds it up but when starting out it's a good idea to control your budget.
I've been experimenting with Flambient, and this is one of the simplest explanations I've seen. Thank you for making everything (even editing) so easy to understand.
Thanks so much. Always love to watch the workflow of an experienced RE photographer.
Best tutorial I've seen on this subject. I used it for the first time last weekend. Much better than using HDR in ambient lighting. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!
From a professional real estate agent and prosumer real estate photographer ! Hat down sir !
I very rarely leave comments on YT videos but you really deserve it! great video!! thank you so much!!!
@@mmousse97 thanks!
And this is why you pay a photographer for photos lol! 100% worth the money spent, great job with the explanation.
Thank you sssoooo much fof this video. I have, like so many others, watched others try to explain flambient and editing. You knocked ot out-of-the-park. GREAT job. Again, thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. I was interested in flambient method, but learned a couple of Photoshop hacks. Super helpful!
Hi, would u like to share these hacks? :)
@@skajsen The hacks I learned were from Mike's video. ;-)
blew my mind. this is EXACTLY what i needed man. thanks a lot.
Great video!!! Im debating between real estate photography and sports photography. Im starting to like the real estate photography. I like the outcome of how you make lighting work for you and the look of the finish product. Amazing!! Your videos are educational and Im learning a lot!! Keep up the good work!!
Thanks Fred!
Use your real-estate photography to fund your sports photography :)
You promised and you delivered.
Ive been asking for this video for some time now. Thank you so much !!! It is so helpful! Thank you for going over ALL the details as for some photographers it is easy but when you're starting out (like me) it isn't as obvious. Thanks again
Awesome video! I have been using HDR for awhile (I mainly shoot rental property photos here in Australia and have been able to get away with it) but wanting to get out of HDR and use flambient. Your video shows a simple start to finish process which is easy to follow. Cheers!
Thanks! That’s exactly what I was hoping to illustrate.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography I currently shoot with a SB700 speedlight and will be getting a Godox AD200 Pro at some stage. I need to do some comparisons between the two in terms of power output to ensure I'm achieving the right results.
@@michaelsabell9294 you should get considerably more power with the ad200
This is incredibly helpful and well produced. Thanks so much!!
Thanks!
I like your videos - clear, and straight to the point. Great job...
Thank you!
Nice video summarizing this technique. Looks exactly like Nathan Cool's methods.
HDR for the win
HDR looks shit.. flash with ambient really gives the rooms that pop.. that HDR just can’t do
@@Tommytoolsqueezer flambient can make rooms looks very artificial. We don't see the world with that pop you describe.
@@Tommytoolsqueezer If you do an automatic HDR, I would agree. But if you use a hand blended HDR method, it is at least 95% as good as flambient and much faster method. I would say, only luxury high priced home should use flambient. For normal type houses hand blended HDR is a fast and very pleasing method.
Nice tutorial mate. I recommend locking off your focus once it’s established rather than letting the camera refocus each frame.
Thanks! Yeah that makes sense and had crossed my mind but never had a problem as of yet but that probably is the safer way to go
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography I use back button focus method, I use af button at the back of my nikon to focus and then shutter button to take the shots.
🔥I'm so thankful for you. You make it so easy to understand! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Man, such an awesome video. So informative. True pro. Worth a lot… Fantastic! Appreciate!
This is great information and they look great, but for the competitive market this is wayyyy to much time spent and I would be editing for forever. I would definitely consider this for high end listings though!
I agree....seems like this would add another 30 to 40 minutes on site with an average sized home. Realtors can be very impatient while on site. You'll know you're slow when they ask, "Is everything is ok?"
I definitely want to try this on my next new construction or a nice commercial space, if time allows.
1 flash. 1 exposure. Point flash at ceiling. Slightly over expose windows, grade and colour correct in post. Modern cameras can recover most window details. 95% of clients will not be able to distinguish. If the ceiling is too high or room is too large, consider skipping the flash entirely; We don’t use flash in Real Estate videography and get on just fine with colour grading in post.
Unless this is like a $2M+ property, this video overcomplicates everything.
@@trip_the_deep And how much do you charge for your house? I charge $2420 for each display home. Most video work is crap and I always wonder why they get amateurs to shoot the HDTV reno homes.
@@travis8665 $420 dollars and 69 cents
Thanks for this great in-depth tutorial! Really convinced me to stick to using my overseas editor and focus on shooting more properties. Seriously, what busy photographer has the time to go through that editing process??
This
Yeah, its like 20+ minutes per image. Insane!
Thank you for all the great info on this subject.
Thank you, this tutorial is amazing and useful.
Excellent tutorial - are you concerned about how many times you touch the camera between shots? Seems like every time I touch it there is some subtle movement.
Thanks! I don’t get too concerned. I just auto align the layers in photoshop in editing to ensure they are all lined up.
My thought exactly. I was getting anxiety peaks every time he altered the setting on camera. Using tethertools with an ipad or some equivalent is the only guaranteed way of avoiding it. Also, the problem is MUCH worse when the tripod is on a carpet, especially a thick shag carpet.
Ok cool! Now what offshore editing company do you recommend to do this kind of edits? 🤷♂️
Hire a freelance ;) > www.sewes.studio
Thank you so much for this video! It has helped me immensely. You are awesome 👏
Fantastic and well instructed video! I would like to see you do a video that puts the HDR method against the flambient method. Be cool to time it, as if you are in the field and trying to keep an expeditious work flow. Seems flambient is adding a lot of "bulk" to the process, and would think a good HDR artist could match the result... your thoughts? With the new Sony A bodies... low light scenarios and brackets with a low ISO would keep things clean. Side note , using the a7S3? How does your sharpness compare to your a7III or an R series body? Keep up the good work!
Definitely a comparison video coming in the future! Yes, I think you can get similar results with HDR when done well. Good hand blended HDR is more work on the back end while flambient is more work on the front end bu yield comparable results. I’m loving the a7siii! Quality is similar to my a7iii but smaller files which is great. We don’t need a lot of resolution for real estate photos so in my mind it’s perfect. The video features are fantastic. The a7sii was my main cam before I got the a7iii so it’s familiar territory for me.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography Nice and good thinking! Have been curious for the S3 to use for my walk thru vids. I am using the rIV and files are HUGE and slow down LR... Looking forward to that comparison vid.
@@snotlobber yeah I don’t have any experience with the R series as I’ve never really had a need for that much resolution for anything I do. Great cameras though of course!
Just upgraded my Ad200 to the round head and pistol grip, and can concur its much better.
I´m learning a lot from your videos, thank you very much for great educational content :)
Are you doing Flambient method on EVERY shot for a house shoot, or just the most marketable ones? when i started messing with real estate photography lightly 2-ish years ago I was into the flambient method. However, at this point in time with software like Photomatix Pro (and others) stacking exposure brackets and blending HDR is pretty dang easy and fast. Since this September, in my last 150 shoots the only light I've used when ambient is not enough is a head lamp or flash light bounced off ceiling when it's too dark, while the brackets rip. or they have bulbs out or missing say in a laundry room, or bath room. Of course, agents that have their $hi* together usually make sure all bulbs are fixtures are working, but many times they are just flipping something and doing minimal effort. Anyhow, I'm just not sold on spending my extra time doing Flambient anymore (unless it was a super awesome property that "deserved" it), when blending brackets has become so easy and also high quality when done right. THOUGHTS ???
The majority of my shoots are bracketed shots. I use lights on higher end shoots and when I feel it’s worth while. I like both methods but definitely feel that good results can be achieved either way.
These videos add a lot of value. Thank you for that!
This was so helpful! Thank you so much!
I'm thinking of offering flambient. How long does a 40-50 photos shoot take with this method? On site and in post. Seems incredibly time consuming compared to HDR. Where can you cut time? I'm shooting significant volume and I want to incorporate flambient, but labor time is a concern.
I think most of the time you only need to shoot the images with large windows like this etc. You have to learn to charge for your work as well. I charge at least 5 times what others charge and people come to me if they want a high end job done.
Your tips are so helpfull for me!
Thank you very mcuh!
You explained everything nicely, but don't you think the end result is over-edited? Everything is so perfect that the room looks flat, one-dimensional. What makes any object, and a room, interesting and 3D is light/shade play. By eliminating shades and so called imperfections the space does not look real, including the picture outdoors which is way too clear. I see a lot of this in interior design books and in my opinion the rooms lose their charm in an effort to produce a "perfect" image. Ambient photo that you took first was way more pleasing to the eye than the final one. Of course, I am not a pro and this is not meant as a criticism, just an observation.
I agree, but it's a battle of personal preferences. Some RE photographers do too much editing work on their images and they turn out looking very artificial.
Great Video! I've been looking for a flash for Real Estate and this my just be the kit... Thank you!
Thanks!
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography forgot to ask... what's your zoom setting on the trigger?
Do you still use multi bracket shots / HDR or strictly flambient now? When would you choose one vs the other?
Hey! I think it depends on the properties. If its just a regular residential home I think you can get away with HDR. If its a higher end listing I'd say use the flash/ambient.. I take it case by case bases.
Another great video! So much to try. I shoot with Sony A7RIII/Godox trigger pro s/ AD200pro with HD200R round heads and AK-R1 dome. I know its more equipment but I might have try 2 AD200Pro with 2 Silver umbrellas just to see if I can take less shots. Just trying to limit post production masking. If I can get it done with three shots at the property that would be my preferred route.
Yeah, definitely agree about trying to limit the post production time!
It is easier the post production masking (matter of seconds)
than making more flash pops or installing lights
Really Loving your videos! Thanks for all the information
Thanks!
Thanks, Mike as usual an awesome informative video
Everything is good but I’d stay away from autofocus.
I noticed that too in the video, the Sony autofocus is good, much better than my Nikon Full Frame. I use autofocus then lock it down on the Sony. Works great.
Back Button Focus, So when you hit the shutter it doesn't re focus.
That was really helpful. Thank you!
Very clear and helpful. Thanks.
Man, that ceiling blend has me cringing over here. I usually just switch the blend of the layer to Lighten so I don’t accidentally brush the darker elements of the underlying photo into the final blend. Great video otherwise! 😊
Thanks for the tip!
I see what you’re talking about for sure but I don’t mind it. The biggest thing for me is how fake those windows look. Even though it’s a blended shot it almost looks like it’s just copy and paste it in. Should’ve been much darker especially with that big ugly telephone pole is a highlighted feature. Being waterfront is wonderful but not when there’s a huge telephone pole featured. I would’ve blown out the windows
@@Eric_In_SF Thanks
@@Eric_In_SF I love the windows! I think it adds a nice contrast and makes it feel as if you are actually in the room.
Which layer do you do this too? Is there a certain order you put them in?
To fix the pin issue with the trigger. You could probably put a tiny dab of rubber cement on it to insulate it and prevent it from screwing with you white balance.
The rubber cement is also soft enough that I bet you could peel it off too if needed.
this is cool for one photo and all but you're going to go through all of this x30 for one real estate job?
Thank you! This is such a helpful video.
Loved this video, thanks for sharing the info.
Hello from New York City! Why not shoot flash shots at maximum flash sync speed of the camera? Thank you for your informative video.
I love these tutorials, but realistically, how many shoots are you fitting into a day with all that edit time? I run my business a little differently in terms of workflow. If I was spending this amount of time blending flambient photos I'm not sure I could keep up with my current workload
Mike…if I don’t already have a round head for my AD200 Pro, but have a MagMod MagSphere…could I use that in lieu of the round head attachment??
Very informative video, thanks!
Good tutorial for beginners..Will try few things from this next shoot. But i couldnt deliver this kind of photo to client. Left lower roof looks like its burned and the last window frame has flashspot on it + reflection.
I’m curious? Why not use the lighten blend mode to blend the images by brightening the base layer in any areas that are darker than layers above it and then mask out any unwanted areas of certain photos rather than manually blending each image? Is there an advantage to blending them manually?
Hey when you look at flash shot. Do you look at your histogram? Wonder if their is a pattern you guys might look at to help in post or keep the colors more real. Thx
Great video, thank you. I do feel like window pulls this extreme look very odd though, like paintings.
Cool, I don't see how I could use this method without charging double... it's just so much more work than hdr, I'd be constantly editing?
I wonder the same. For what the competition locally charges in my area there's no way they are doing this time consuming flambient, otherwise they're working for $5/hr.
Nice video! You should use darken mode to blend the overexposed window. You can do that fast and clean.
Thanks! Yeah, I did use darken mode for the windows. Just repaired some glare with a separate layer.
BTW, I really enjoyed the way you carry the Ad200 around. I checked your link to the pistol grip but it doesn't work. Keep up the good work!👍
@@efemerum thanks for letting me know! I’ll look into that.
Should use a polarizing filter to eliminate the glare/flair in the windows, you'd save yourself work in post production. I'd also use manual focus.
I use a polarizer everyday and it was on for this video. It doesn’t do a lot for window views but is very helpful for floors and things of that nature. I
Terrific footage, thank you
Fantastic tutorial!!
It looks like you have a ND filter on your lense? When shooting inside real estate (granted this shot had big windows and a lot of ambient light im sure) do you always have a filter on? An idea for another video based around What kind are you using, and how you adjust it if it's a variable ND would be a great!
It’s a circular polarizer filter and yes I do have a video on it: Should You Use a Circular Polarizer Filter for Real Estate Photography?
ua-cam.com/video/y8yUAbkbTE0/v-deo.html
What trigger, and model do you use to shoot the camera and keep in your pocket. Thank you
Here's a link to the remotes I use: amzn.to/2F09TMr
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography Muchas gracias.
Really nice work.
If you have the godox xpro2 you have to turn on legacy mode to not have the white balance issue
For me I’m not a big fan of the perfectly exposed windows in a room. It’s unnatural even to the human eye. Our eyes only have a certain amount of dynamic range. stare outside and you can see naturally your room becomes darker then switch your eyes to a dark corner and you can see that your windows become brighter. For good reference, I’ll check architectural digest and Better Homes & Gardens from time to time to see what the top architectural photographer so doing. For the most part they usually have completely blown out windows. Especially if there’s not a huge vista or something spectacular to look at outside. Your subject is the interior of the house not necessarily a street with telephone poles and a bunch of other houses off in the distance. Flash definitely has an advantage if used properly. Although you did forget there’s a big dead shadow behind that couch under the pine poster that I would’ve lit up. But I think for fast workflow you can do most of this with three or four bracketed shots and call it a day and get 90% the quality with about a quarter of the work.
Valid points. My clients like the heavy window pulls so that’s what I deliver even though, yes, it is definitely unnatural looking. To each their own.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography Yes, usually in the end the client is always right. But when they insist on some thing that may make future clients hesitate to call you is where the balance needs to be careful
Is there a purpose for this? It seems as though the HDR method works great and is far less work…
Wow.thanks
Thanks for this! I'm trying new methods and for some reason, when I'm working on my layer mask like you do around 15:30, I'm not getting any white from the ceilings...it's painting black and it appears all the things are set up the same as you have. Appreciate your time and keep up the good work!
Is your layer mask (not the actual layer) selected when you are painting?
I see you are using AF on separate images for blending.... Moving parts are not a very smart idea as it won't pixel match when you blend. Also have you tried importing Via Bridge as you have all the appropriate adjustments available and it makes the workflow easier without creating a library for disposable images. Nice content thanks for helping the community
Thanks for the tip! I’ll look into that. I understand about AF but I’ve Never had any issues.
Great tutorial. Can I use a canon trigger to fire the godox flash on a canon camera. Were you saying the canon trigger would work on the Sony camera to fire the godox (3:49- 4:00)
What do you look for in the shot (on the back camera screen) to make sure the flash power is sufficient?
very, very useful, thanks!
I'm following all of your instructions and for some reason I keep getting a ghosting effect on light fixtures even after I've done auto align layers in Photoshop. Can you possibly shed some light on this issue. I would attach a photo to show you but it doesn't let me in these comment sections. Thank you in advance
Hmm I’m sorry, I’m not really sure what’s going on there
@InsideRealEstatePhotography I think the tripod must have shifted because it doesn't do it on all the photos, only some of them. Do you do 1 on 1 video/screen share editing with step by step teaching? If so, how do I go about doing that with you? I've pretty much got the flambient dialed in on smaller rooms but still struggling with larger rooms.
Wow, what a great video.
Thank you!
You are the best
lots of great tips, but my question, as a newbie to real estate photography but a long time nature photographer: is this kinda result the industry standard? seeing through the windows and all that? because my artist eye says it looks like crap. but will my (potential) clients be looking for this?
That is a LOT of time for one image. At the current RE photo rates, how do you justify spending so much time on one image, especially of you are delivering 30 or so images per shoot?
Its up to you how detailed you want to get. Just demonstrating what you can do with it. You can simply blend ambient and flash frames together in about 2 minutes and move onto the next if you want.
You glazed over how you triggered your camera when you went over to take the additional flash shot at that low ceiling in the living room. did you change your camera setting to 10 seconds or do you have a remote trigger? I am very interested to know. It's a pain having to reset the timer on the camera all the time between 2 seconds and 10 seconds. I have some Cactus triggers, but they are a pain too. Mine dont snap in tight to the camera/flash and fall out and batteries go flying everywhere. haha. Do you use something else? Let us know! Thanks for the vid!
Edit: I see you have a small remote. Can you tell me about that?
Hey! Yes I use these remotes: amzn.to/3vwCvBl
Hi Mike. Thanks for tutorial, i'm using flash in my photos too. Tell me, whats your opinion about using CPL filter in this method?
I use a CPL filter it and haven’t had any issues so I thinks it’s a fine idea.
My photography friend says she uses the godox flash with bracketing shots. Do most use bracketing shots or not with the flash ?
You could do that! Most don’t really do that though as far as I know. Usually an ambient frame, a flash frame and a window pull.
@@InsideRealEstatePhotography do you need photoshop to edit or could you just use lightroom? I don't want to pay for Adobe but I have lightroom.
@@Soulful-Scribes for this method you definitely need photoshop because you can’t blend photos together in Lightroom.
That's a lotta work. I believe you can achieve similar results with HDR either in Lightroom or Photomatix. in about one tenth of the time. And a lot less expensive. Just my opinion.
He also made a great tutorial on HDR photography doing a small shoot in his home beginning to end. HDR seems like the no-brainer solution to me after watching both videos.
Thanks so much for this video. I have been getting ready to pull the trigger on buying some new equipment and stepping up to flash photography. Thanks for breaking this down, your info is very helpful. I am not sure what the difference between the ad200 and the ad200 pro are though. Don’t want to get one and wish I got the other. Like the fact that the round head distributes the light more even. Please let me know. Thanks!
For real estate there’s not a whole lot of benefit of the pro over the standard version so the standard is probably the more practical way to go for this type of work and you won’t be missing anything.
Thanks again! That’ll pay for the strap and pistol grip!
He Mike - how are you triggering the Transmitter (on the hotshot) with a Transceiver? You're pushing a button on a Transceiver - that is communicating with the Godox/Flashpoint Transmitter. How can that work? Can the Transmitter RECEIVE a command from the Transceiver?
I’m using a remote shutter trigger. The flash is triggered by the shutter of the camera.
Do you set a timer on the camera and then walk over to where you want to shoot the flash from, hold it until the timer goes off? I'm confused on the process
I use a handheld remote
how do you adjust the flash power on the flash without having the trigger override the power setting on the flash
Nice vedio Thanks for sharing 👍
I'm trying to use a tablet (which I want to buy) with the Sony a7iii, and my (2x) AD200 + XPro Trigger.
I can buy a new trigger system (if needed) to make this work...
The tablet is used for viewing the shots on a larger screen. If possible also trigger the camera/flash from it, if possible.
I want to be able to change the strobe settings/turn them off when away from the camera & lights - How do I do this?
How do I also shoot the camera wirelessly and have the strobes go off?
I would look into camranger. Does everything your describing except I don’t think you can change your strobe settings (I may be wrong).
What are some nonsubscription alteratives to Lightroom with same functions used for this same application?