Bet those tabs inside the pyrofuse are there to break the electrical arc that will shoot up between the two terminals when they get separated. Same thing on your house's fuses!
The tabs are actually there to slow down the broken fuse tab part and also act like a ratchet (one way) to prevent the tab bouncing back and making contact again after it hits the limits of the casing.
Those fins are there to quench (cool to extinguish) electric arcs formed when you break a high current. Take apart a mini circuit breaker (MCB) from your service panel, you will find the same structure.
Matt, I had an eighty-something Ford that had an inertia switch that isolated the fuel pump in case of an accident. Junk yards should have a plentiful supply of Fords with inertia switches to repurpose for battery isolation.
I worked at Tesla back in the 18650 days. The battery pack had a huge sheet of aluminum that needed to be removed and basically scrapped before accessing the modules. Is that a plastic cover on it now or is that also aluminum? Looks like they still have serviceability issues. Thanks for the video! BTW there definitely was a proprietary plastic chisel and other tools for removing the cover.
i geuss you could make opening the battery a bit safer by putting a bolt through the edge of putty Knife blade to limit how far in it can go. - You could then call it the super secret battery opening tool
There's a pretty solid wall of plastic around the outer edges of the cells in the battery modules. I've taken it off on purpose, and it's not something you're likely to break through by accident. Don't test this, but I feel like if you intentionally tried to do it by hammering a putty knife straight in, your arm would likely give up before the plastic did, but I guess with a super sharp putty knife and a sledgehammer, you could maybe manage it. Which would short out a maximum of 8 volts, due to the way the battery cell blocks are arrayed.
FYI I have been doing a little research on the Tesla Model 3 battery pack and the difference between the 50 kwh battery pack that Matt has and the longer range 74 kwh battery pack is that the "bricks" that make up the battery modules contain fewer cells in the smaller pack. On the Model 3, the cells are combined in parallel in sub components called bricks which are wired together in series to create the modules. Both the 50 kwh and 74 kwh battery pack modules contain the same number of bricks (23 in the short modules and 25 in the long modules). The difference is that the 50 kwh pack only has 31 cells per brick while the 74 kwh pack has 46 cells per brick. Since the bricks are wired in series to form modules, the modules from the 50 kwh pack have the same voltage as their equivalents of the 74 kwh pack. In other words, the shorter range modules in Matt's Jaguar don't have cells removed from the middle of the module, they have the same number of cells removed across the length of the module. Ain't EVs fun?
I also have the short modules he was talking about. If you want to figure out whether the short modules are in the pack or not just try to lift the front end of the battery. If you can move it at all you are either superman or you have one with the short modules; seriously, even the small ones are ridiculously heavy, even with 3ft of leverage. It took 4 of us to load the battery up and when I say 4 of us I mean 4 HVAC people who regularly put air conditioners on roofs. As for how to get the middle 2 out, I flipped the casing almost vertical and carefully rotated them out.
Awesome build! really looking forward to the next steps. Please keep the original Jaguar wheels and look and feel of the car (at least from the outside) .
I live very close to that salvage yard area outside of Sacramento. Funny thing about the road you mentioned that's lined with yards, it's actually called "Recycle Road." Also, as a classic volvo enthusiast, it's necessary to have places like this nearby.
Never say never. I love how easy it is to jump in my electric truck and make a run to the hardware store. Beats the daylights out of tuning carburetors every time the weather changes or having to flush the gasoline every year because it didn't get driven enough.
So to get the middle modules out for anyone who is wondering, the best way I found is raise the front end to where the batteries are facing almost straight up (about 75⁰) then carefully rotate the modules out of the beams. Make sure you have them strapped to something because they will fall the moment they are unlatched. I hooked mine to the ceiling.
Hi Matt love you content. In the profuse . Those fins are the arc chute. When hi amp dc circuit open it will arc. As it arcs the metal will form plasma which is conductive. The chute cool the arc and extiques
I remember Penthouse. Mostly for the articles. Your comment about it almost had whiskey flying out my nose. Which would have been weird since I don't drink.
I know this is years late but: The gap underneath the battery pack is for cell venting. Cells outgas naturally and the pack has several pressure sensors to monitor pressure as a variable of health and feedback into controls systems.
A note on the putty knife to open the battery. If you're careful, you shouldn't have a problem, but even if you're not careful, the way the blocks of batteries are arrayed, you're only going to be able to short out about 8v max across the blade of the putty knife. Still, as long as you're not using a sledgehammer, it'll be pretty hard to do it by accident.
realy I liked and loved your introduction on this video and post the replay on that base before completing it the best ever introduction I've seen 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I believe the fins on the Pyrofuse are for spark suppression. It turns out that if you interrupt a high voltage with potentially inductive load, you will end up with an big arc and if its not extinguished can lead to things catching fire.
I'm doing a battery upgrade on model 3 standard range to long range conversion and couldn't find hardly any videos showing teardown on a very common tesla so thank u for that. I actually found a guy that hacked the cpu and Vin so car now thinks it's long range. Please do more tesla content 🙏
Late notice in your gorgeous project (from an old Broken Kitty tech, turned EV diag specialist > don't forget design requirements for flood ports and isolation concerns ! Beautiful Project > one of my first resto's was a '49 XK120 (family biz) Keep up the awesome work ! Dont blow your @#$K off !!! :)
If you flatten the fuse tab and reassemble it into the top part of the casing and then manually bend it down you will see that the fins are actually there to act like a ratchet, they also disipate the energy from the pyro to prevent the tab breaking free and malking contact as a loose component or swinging back down to make contact when it bounces off the case.
You're right. The lingo is "arc chute". Matt the expanding hot air (from the heat of the arc) pushes the arc into those fins where it spreads the ionized air out and cools it to extinguish the arc. Otherwise, after the fuse blows, the connection might remain through the arc. As long as current flows, the air stays hot and ionized, so the arc is self sustaining.
In regards to metal sheers. Milwaukee makes a great electric sheer when you get tired of working so hard. But I feel like you're already detail oriented enough to have already😂🤣 consider this option, and went with the cheaper route
I like this Matt better. Future Matt is doing stuff with explodey combustion based power sources, doesn't have the same dry joke density & isn't looking as healthy as this one. Or, more positively, this video was awesome! Thanks :)
inverted rounded pentalobe security(meaning Hole/protrusion) = "tesla" super secret tool. i do like the humor, good job. an inertia switch for an airbag system may just work for your application, I.E. impact detect switches, latching/resetable relay stops control for contactor. ford has one to shut off the fuel pump, and you have to push a button to reset it.
The guys from Rich Rebuilds will probably answer some of your questions. Especially electrical modules, the guy there is frigging great at Tesla components.
And dude, when batteries are getting shorted while crashing cables will explode almost instantly, button is ridiculous as fuse trigger. Just use it to disconnect main relay, it clicks for free
I worked in an er as the cleaner for about 2 years, a guy came in after trying to wire a bunch of batteries in sequence, 3 fingers gone. 3rd degree burns all up his arm and chemical burns on his face neck and torso after one of the batteries caught fire and exploded. Luckily he had a chemical extinguisher, but using it caused him to be in the blast zone.
Love your sense of humour, very British 😉. Please, please, keep the Whitworth bolts. It's a bit of history and an excuse to buy a bespoke quality socket set. For some reason you can get quite cheap stahlwille or britool socket sets in the UK on eBay anyway. 👍
Quick question about the air gap. Is that just the bottom of the battery cells up above it or is there more protective material on the underside of the module? What’s the undercarriage material below the air gap, just 1/8” steel? I’m trying to judge if I damaged my pack by running a rock along it and you are the only person on the internet who seems to have any idea about the battery armor!
I "drove electric cars" when I was 4 yrs old. The "car" was a house outlet near the floor, and the "steering wheel" was a couple of my mother's knitting needles that I inserted into said outlet. That got me going!
I hate keeping track of cost, but I'll probably do a rundown when it's mostly together. The basics of it are this- Jag:10k, Tesla motor&battery:10k, controller 3k. I'll have about 1500 in the front suspension and brakes but that could definitely be cheaper. Wheels and tires were 700, powdercoating the frame was 1k. I expect this to be a 35k build which is a lot, but in fairness is less than the average new car price. By far my most expensive build. But it doesn't hold a candle to some of the stuff I see on UA-cam.
@@SuperfastMatt Thanks. I've always been intrigued with restomod evs, but the cost is still too much. Thinking of doing a electric motorcycle conversion. But the upfront costs and the amount of petrol that you can buy for that. But for now I'll live vicariously. Keep up the awesome videos.
I've run out of Shelves™ in my two car garage, help! Perhaps getting the going on three year project occupying half the garage finished and moved out would help
Hi superfastmatt. I've got the same pack. I'm wanting to use only 2 of the 4 modules because of space. Looking at the links on the underside, I was thinking it may be possible to cut links here and there (also splitting the end alloy extrusions) to turn the module into two batteries. Therefore I can then link them in series to bump up to 200v per module...400v for two modules. Possible?
About the springy connector bridge at 11:40, I‘d assume these are made that way to endure the fitting Process of the cells, maybe these modules get shifted in place that requires a bit of travel .... just my 1 Dollar 23 Cents, Love your Video, keep it up! Does it beat the algorithm If I unsubscribe and subscribe several times a day?
Hi great video helpful👍 I just want know about Tesla model 3 after replacing pyro fuse still gear liver is not responding is there any program has to be run ???
"the legal way...as far as you know" aaaaaand subscribed
The combination of incredible practical skills with such laconic self-deprecating humour is irresistible. Well done, Sir!!
Many thanks!
Bet those tabs inside the pyrofuse are there to break the electrical arc that will shoot up between the two terminals when they get separated. Same thing on your house's fuses!
Interesting. Good to know!
The tabs are actually there to slow down the broken fuse tab part and also act like a ratchet (one way) to prevent the tab bouncing back and making contact again after it hits the limits of the casing.
Technical term is Arc Chute. Google throws up images identical to it.
I quite like your content SFM, it's consistently adequate.
I'm not sure why, but I really like the compliment "consistently adequate." I'm adding it to my dating profile.
@@SuperfastMatt you guys should do stand up comedy together smh love it
@@SuperfastMatt 🤣🤣🤣
Gosh - 6 min into the video and I cannot stop laughing. Rare to see exceptional knowledge paired with an extraordinary sense of humour.... Well done.
I agree!!
Thank you!
I think the crowd that watches him could see the longer version of this.
Those fins are there to quench (cool to extinguish) electric arcs formed when you break a high current. Take apart a mini circuit breaker (MCB) from your service panel, you will find the same structure.
This is correct - I believe this is called the 'arc chute'
Cunningham's law. The best. "Dear Penthouse". I'm still laughing.
Matt, I had an eighty-something Ford that had an inertia switch that isolated the fuel pump in case of an accident. Junk yards should have a plentiful supply of Fords with inertia switches to repurpose for battery isolation.
I’ve also heard they are stupid east to reset which is great because doesn’t matter if it rusted out or got t boned.
Old proverb;
"When in doubt, pull the meter out"
(Volt meter)
what a stumble upon to find this gem of dry humour and great building. do not stop with the humour, i think we all need this
I really like your style! Keep up the dry humor :D
Thanks! I'm glad people enjoy the dry humor. It's all the humor I've got!
I worked at Tesla back in the 18650 days. The battery pack had a huge sheet of aluminum that needed to be removed and basically scrapped before accessing the modules. Is that a plastic cover on it now or is that also aluminum? Looks like they still have serviceability issues. Thanks for the video! BTW there definitely was a proprietary plastic chisel and other tools for removing the cover.
i geuss you could make opening the battery a bit safer by putting a bolt through the edge of putty Knife blade to limit how far in it can go. - You could then call it the super secret battery opening tool
There's a pretty solid wall of plastic around the outer edges of the cells in the battery modules. I've taken it off on purpose, and it's not something you're likely to break through by accident. Don't test this, but I feel like if you intentionally tried to do it by hammering a putty knife straight in, your arm would likely give up before the plastic did, but I guess with a super sharp putty knife and a sledgehammer, you could maybe manage it. Which would short out a maximum of 8 volts, due to the way the battery cell blocks are arrayed.
FYI I have been doing a little research on the Tesla Model 3 battery pack and the difference between the 50 kwh battery pack that Matt has and the longer range 74 kwh battery pack is that the "bricks" that make up the battery modules contain fewer cells in the smaller pack.
On the Model 3, the cells are combined in parallel in sub components called bricks which are wired together in series to create the modules. Both the 50 kwh and 74 kwh battery pack modules contain the same number of bricks (23 in the short modules and 25 in the long modules). The difference is that the 50 kwh pack only has 31 cells per brick while the 74 kwh pack has 46 cells per brick. Since the bricks are wired in series to form modules, the modules from the 50 kwh pack have the same voltage as their equivalents of the 74 kwh pack.
In other words, the shorter range modules in Matt's Jaguar don't have cells removed from the middle of the module, they have the same number of cells removed across the length of the module. Ain't EVs fun?
I also have the short modules he was talking about. If you want to figure out whether the short modules are in the pack or not just try to lift the front end of the battery. If you can move it at all you are either superman or you have one with the short modules; seriously, even the small ones are ridiculously heavy, even with 3ft of leverage. It took 4 of us to load the battery up and when I say 4 of us I mean 4 HVAC people who regularly put air conditioners on roofs. As for how to get the middle 2 out, I flipped the casing almost vertical and carefully rotated them out.
Been watching for a few weeks now. You're on my top 5 list to watch on UA-cam. Can't wait to see the viper and smart car Ferris wheel.
Awesome build! really looking forward to the next steps. Please keep the original Jaguar wheels and look and feel of the car (at least from the outside) .
I fu*king love this channel. Started with the land speed car, now working my way back through the older vids.
Just about 1:30 in the video and I had to hit the Like Button. I really love your sense of humour! 😀
I live very close to that salvage yard area outside of Sacramento. Funny thing about the road you mentioned that's lined with yards, it's actually called "Recycle Road."
Also, as a classic volvo enthusiast, it's necessary to have places like this nearby.
This is awesome stuff. Clear and not too much blabla if you just want to get things started. Thanks!! Keep up that good work!
Nice Whitworth adapter. I am always befuddled for a few minutes when I run in to them.
Seeing one just pulls a strong guffaw from me.
never plan on putting any electric engine in any project i have but still love watching. even learned something new (i think) Cunninghams Law..
Never say never. I love how easy it is to jump in my electric truck and make a run to the hardware store. Beats the daylights out of tuning carburetors every time the weather changes or having to flush the gasoline every year because it didn't get driven enough.
Dude, I love your ff'ing style 😁😂😁
I'll be closely watching this build 🖒
SuperfastMatt is like 1000% funny. The whole idea for this project and the execution is fantastic!
So to get the middle modules out for anyone who is wondering, the best way I found is raise the front end to where the batteries are facing almost straight up (about 75⁰) then carefully rotate the modules out of the beams. Make sure you have them strapped to something because they will fall the moment they are unlatched. I hooked mine to the ceiling.
Hi Matt love you content. In the profuse . Those fins are the arc chute. When hi amp dc circuit open it will arc. As it arcs the metal will form plasma which is conductive. The chute cool the arc and extiques
I remember Penthouse. Mostly for the articles. Your comment about it almost had whiskey flying out my nose. Which would have been weird since I don't drink.
9:25- Those are arc chutes. They cool down the arc. circuit breakers have those too.
This is a quality video. Looking forward to celebrating your 1,000,000th subscriber. 🙂
I know this is years late but:
The gap underneath the battery pack is for cell venting.
Cells outgas naturally and the pack has several pressure sensors to monitor pressure as a variable of health and feedback into controls systems.
Loving these videos! Keep 'em coming! And don't explode your ***** !
Your very intelligent humor made me clic that subscription button. Keep the good work!
Great comedy timing, love this channel so far
I don't have much interest in EVs but subbed for the awesome engineering. Thanks!
A note on the putty knife to open the battery. If you're careful, you shouldn't have a problem, but even if you're not careful, the way the blocks of batteries are arrayed, you're only going to be able to short out about 8v max across the blade of the putty knife. Still, as long as you're not using a sledgehammer, it'll be pretty hard to do it by accident.
You're awesome! Never seen such stoic wit in my life...props
realy I liked and loved your introduction on this video and post the replay on that base before completing it
the best ever introduction I've seen 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
The fins inside the fuse are ARC SUPPRESSION to extinguish the DC arc as it breaks with current flow.
My favourite car channel beside Bad Obsession. Great editing and excellent content!
I love the subtle comedy of this channel.
I believe the fins on the Pyrofuse are for spark suppression. It turns out that if you interrupt a high voltage with potentially inductive load, you will end up with an big arc and if its not extinguished can lead to things catching fire.
Wow, thanks for such detailed tear down. Pretty sure that’s above my pay grade.
I'm doing a battery upgrade on model 3 standard range to long range conversion and couldn't find hardly any videos showing teardown on a very common tesla so thank u for that. I actually found a guy that hacked the cpu and Vin so car now thinks it's long range. Please do more tesla content 🙏
Finally i found the best channel on how to use Tesla parts! Go on please
You always make me chuckle in your vids, but this one was hilarious!!
Yep...... “no shortcuts to the penthouse”. 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Unless you were a card holding Penthouse Club member or your name was Hugh Hefner! 😆
Late notice in your gorgeous project (from an old Broken Kitty tech, turned EV diag specialist > don't forget design requirements for flood ports and isolation concerns ! Beautiful Project > one of my first resto's was a '49 XK120 (family biz) Keep up the awesome work ! Dont blow your @#$K off !!! :)
I think the fins in the fuse are actually to quench the arc as the electrical connection is broken. Circuit breakers have something very similar.
Interesting. I've never taken apart a circuit breaker but they do look similar to the ones on google images. I bet you're right.
If you flatten the fuse tab and reassemble it into the top part of the casing and then manually bend it down you will see that the fins are actually there to act like a ratchet, they also disipate the energy from the pyro to prevent the tab breaking free and malking contact as a loose component or swinging back down to make contact when it bounces off the case.
You're right. The lingo is "arc chute". Matt the expanding hot air (from the heat of the arc) pushes the arc into those fins where it spreads the ionized air out and cools it to extinguish the arc. Otherwise, after the fuse blows, the connection might remain through the arc. As long as current flows, the air stays hot and ionized, so the arc is self sustaining.
fins in the fuse are for quenching the humongus electric arc that will result if fuse blows at full power draw
Ah, HAH! jokes on you, I dont have a left hand. I can disregard all safety advice now I have exposed that one loophole.
Great videos, keep 'em coming.
You are my favourite channel ❤
Would it kill you to provide a shopping link for Shelves? You might actually get some sponsorship. Also discount codes for subscribers would be nice,
Currently doing a classic mini this vid really helped alot. THANK YOU!
In regards to metal sheers. Milwaukee makes a great electric sheer when you get tired of working so hard. But I feel like you're already detail oriented enough to have already😂🤣 consider this option, and went with the cheaper route
Can confirm, will buy shelf.
Fins in fuse are for arc suppression. DC is prone to arcing, this is why welders are DC.
Awesome content. I had to watch all your other videos, it’s like crack 😇 No where is that lighter .....
15:23 - a man of culture
I love your humour (humor).
Kind regards,
An Englishman.
This info is gold 🙏
I like this Matt better. Future Matt is doing stuff with explodey combustion based power sources, doesn't have the same dry joke density & isn't looking as healthy as this one.
Or, more positively, this video was awesome! Thanks :)
you make all the ***** explode, matt
The guy below me 6min in couldn't stop laughing... 6min in my brain melted. Best ever.
"Sometimes I like to stick my fingers in mysterious holes." Genius.
Your videos started good and keep getting better! Keep it up
Thanks! I'll try to keep the quality on an upward trajectory.
Just wanted to chime in here:
You’re actually completely correct about the cosmic radiation.
I came to the comments just to figure this out. Thanks!
inverted rounded pentalobe security(meaning Hole/protrusion) = "tesla" super secret tool. i do like the humor, good job. an inertia switch for an airbag system may just work for your application, I.E. impact detect switches, latching/resetable relay stops control for contactor. ford has one to shut off the fuel pump, and you have to push a button to reset it.
The guys from Rich Rebuilds will probably answer some of your questions. Especially electrical modules, the guy there is frigging great at Tesla components.
You didn’t end up 3d scanning that whole model 3 battery pack before tearing it apart did you?
Every feature inside of battery fuse is an arc quenching and venting feature, it is not just vent for explosives
This means for example, that orientation is important when it is reallocated
And dude, when batteries are getting shorted while crashing cables will explode almost instantly, button is ridiculous as fuse trigger. Just use it to disconnect main relay, it clicks for free
I worked in an er as the cleaner for about 2 years, a guy came in after trying to wire a bunch of batteries in sequence, 3 fingers gone. 3rd degree burns all up his arm and chemical burns on his face neck and torso after one of the batteries caught fire and exploded. Luckily he had a chemical extinguisher, but using it caused him to be in the blast zone.
Don't fuck around with electricity.
Super fast and funny Matt you should call yourself.
Love your sense of humour, very British 😉. Please, please, keep the Whitworth bolts. It's a bit of history and an excuse to buy a bespoke quality socket set. For some reason you can get quite cheap stahlwille or britool socket sets in the UK on eBay anyway. 👍
You've probably already crossed this bridge, but I'm sure you could repurpose and air bag impact sensor for the pyro fuse
Hello from israel,Mat i just want to say i love your channel,but mostly your great humour.
Quick question about the air gap. Is that just the bottom of the battery cells up above it or is there more protective material on the underside of the module? What’s the undercarriage material below the air gap, just 1/8” steel? I’m trying to judge if I damaged my pack by running a rock along it and you are the only person on the internet who seems to have any idea about the battery armor!
This feels like an online zoom class but the person talking is actually funny
Can you tell us what are located the positive and negative poles of the HV battery. Nice video. It is that I am a beginner. Have my best.!
Put a penny in that fuse. Worked at home😬
Damn, now I want some Shelves brand shelves
that sponsor deserves a like
What a legend.
Fascinating!! Enjoy your humor too ;-)
I "drove electric cars" when I was 4 yrs old. The "car" was a house outlet near the floor, and the "steering wheel" was a couple of my mother's knitting needles that I inserted into said outlet. That got me going!
Insane that you even attempted this. Never felt too far in over your head?
You could do stand-up on the side 👍🤣
BONJOUR c est charlie de france merci pour toutes ces indications precieuses pour moi qui est en train de m amuser comme vous !!!
9:36 it is an electric arc extinguisher
Would you please do a cost breakdown. Awesome channel, you can make the most boring topics very interesting
I hate keeping track of cost, but I'll probably do a rundown when it's mostly together. The basics of it are this- Jag:10k, Tesla motor&battery:10k, controller 3k. I'll have about 1500 in the front suspension and brakes but that could definitely be cheaper. Wheels and tires were 700, powdercoating the frame was 1k. I expect this to be a 35k build which is a lot, but in fairness is less than the average new car price. By far my most expensive build. But it doesn't hold a candle to some of the stuff I see on UA-cam.
@@SuperfastMatt Thanks. I've always been intrigued with restomod evs, but the cost is still too much. Thinking of doing a electric motorcycle conversion. But the upfront costs and the amount of petrol that you can buy for that. But for now I'll live vicariously. Keep up the awesome videos.
@9:30 They are refereed to as arc chutes.
This guy is genius. New-school AvE - American Edition. 🤣
Best videos ever. So entertaining.
I've run out of Shelves™ in my two car garage, help!
Perhaps getting the going on three year project occupying half the garage finished and moved out would help
i run 6 right now, time to get more ...
Hi superfastmatt. I've got the same pack. I'm wanting to use only 2 of the 4 modules because of space. Looking at the links on the underside, I was thinking it may be possible to cut links here and there (also splitting the end alloy extrusions) to turn the module into two batteries. Therefore I can then link them in series to bump up to 200v per module...400v for two modules. Possible?
About the springy connector bridge at 11:40, I‘d assume these are made that way to endure the fitting Process of the cells, maybe these modules get shifted in place that requires a bit of travel .... just my 1 Dollar 23 Cents, Love your Video, keep it up! Does it beat the algorithm If I unsubscribe and subscribe several times a day?
Hi great video helpful👍 I just want know about Tesla model 3 after replacing pyro fuse still gear liver is not responding is there any program has to be run ???
Great video……new sub 👊🏻
Good Luck Bro
"aww what the" .... had me 😂🤣
Hey Matt! Do you still have the battery tray? Can you please measure how thick the bottom layer is between the modules and the road?