Fuel Pressure Regulator Symptoms and Testing
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Fuel Pressure tester amzn.to/336Gtbq
Canadian link amzn.to/32YMQxN
Todays video is dealing with fuel pressure regulator symptoms and testing. I'm using my 2003 Jeep Tj to to the fuel regulator test with a fuel pressure tester. having a bad fuel pressure regulator can give you all sorts of issues from black smoke, backfiring, hard starting,bad acceleration, bad fuel mileage and so on. this video will help you identify and troubleshoot these problems.
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10 seconds into the video I hit like, when you have a problem like this you need a guy who looks and talks like this. An expert! Thanks.
Ccccccxx
Same here lol
I hit like during the ad while reading your comment
lol I added it to my project car playlist
Thanks for keeping a Master Course class in bad fuel pressure regulators in main stream communication %110 in less than 10 min. Bravo
I'm a 72 year old " Shade Tree Mechanic", and a new subscriber, cuzz I"m totally impressed!
Just watched your video and you described the exact problem(s) I have been experiancing with my 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo. It was dying out while driving on the freeway at high speed and on surface street lower speeds. A shop changed the camshaft sensor, the plugs and wires and the fuel filter. Problem went away for a few days and came back even worse. I changed the ignition coil (it was going bad) and ran injector cleaner and octane booster and the problem again went away but came back. I called a mechanic that worked on my Jeep over a year ago and explained the problem and what had been done and the first thing he said was fuel pressure regulator can be going bad. I am going to change the fuel pressure regulator and I will let you know the results. Thank you for the great video and explanations.
Thank you man iv been wondering for atleast a month trying to figure out whats goin on with my truck and that fixed it
Thank you for this video and all the other useful videos you have posted up on your channels. I recently (regrettably) asked a shop to smoke test my EVAP system to diagnose a P0456 on my 03 TJ. They couldn't find a leak and took the parts cannon approach and replaced the LDP at my expense. No fix. Ended up replacing the gas tank (which they only noticed a leak from the stem after dropping down the tank multiple times, speculating they might have actually broke it) ... they give it back to me, and it wouldn't start first try after sitting more than 10 minutes. Took it back again held it for several more days (they had my Jeep for most of an entire month) and gave it back to me saying nothing is wrong. Service Desk guy says it starts fine for him (didn't even have a tech test fuel pressure) ... I knew it wasn't holding pressure and was either the pump or regulator. Soo, finally they change that out (after several more days in the shop) and it starts fine, but now it's running rich (guessing since it leaves a pile of carbon below the tailpipe wherever I park) Now I am trying to diagnose it myself (cutting my losses with the shop as they already took me for a few grand already and I'm worse off each time I let them touch it, so not going to let them hold the jeep weeks/months just to mess it up more)
Any idea what would make a ridiculously loud high pitch noise from the tank area? It sounds like a bad case of tinnitus and loud enough I can hear it over 100 yards away when I'm out in the bush. It started after the gas tank replacement, before the pump/regulator was changed and only does it when the engine is actually running. EVAP code is gone, but I am suspicious of what the "fix" actually was (ie: if it was actually the tank, or if that's just another thing they messed up or if they did something hacky) I've run it a bit with the gap cap loose, purge valve vacuum off, etc and can't get it to pop a code (not even a pending code) .... can't wait to get to the bottom of all this and maybe bust out a rant video.
Anyway thanks again for all the videos. My wife and I are loyal subscribers from BC! Big fans of Tom Cat as well :)
no idea as nobody knows what they did, high pitch noise would almost sound like building up too much pressure, when this noise is happening what happens if you remove the fuel cap.
It sounds the same with the fuel cap off and with evap vacuum line disconnected at the intake. I'll try disconnecting the LDP and see if that makes a difference. Will also check fuel pressure while it's running and see what I find. Doubt it's exhaust, but going to hook up blower to the tail pipe and spray soapy water around to check for leaks anyway (the sound if you're curious you can hear it with the volume up: ua-cam.com/video/1Zt3WFvMydg/v-deo.html) Thanks for hitting me back. Looking forward to your project and camping vids!
Im impressed. I motorhead whos own vehicle runs like it should. Thats rare. Im dealing with a 90 f150 4.9liter that was running horribly. The plugs had been in so long they had welded themselves in. They literally had slag around the ends of the plugs just past the threads. After finessing them out i did the wires rotor cap dist etc and it was running like a new truck. With one microscopic miss at idle every 11/2 to 2 mins. The owner obsessed and had it taken to a shop before i could find a high pressure injection cleaner. When it came back it was running worse than before i started on it. Check engine light has never come on. Other than pulling one of the plug wires apart and them reinstalling the new plugs finger tight i cant figure what they did. It spits sputters hard start no accelleration and stomping it to the floor does very little under 100 yards. No smoke. No fuel smell. I bought a feul pressure test kit . as soon as i can get my big ass up in there ill attempt to locate the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail.
Could you please pleas please do a video on a 2005 chevy trail blazer fuel pressure sensor location and replacement. I’m poor. Gotta do this myself if possible.
Awesome video, question, i have a 2001 Subaru Forester, I just tested my pressure and noticed that the pressure drops when I shut it off, would that be pump or regulator? TIA
I had serious hesitation on my car last year. Thought it may be FPR, but turned out to be a bad upstream lambda sensor. Was awful under closed-loop so I'd put my foot to the floor, then all of a sudden BOOM! Massive power instantly. Felt like a rocket booster kicking in haha!
I have a 98 TJ 4.0 It randomly stumbles sometimes pretty violently, but I have driven it with a fuel pressure gauge on. It is pretty solid at 52 while driving, but at an idol the gauge fluctuates between 52 and 54 so quickly you can barely see the needle. I have pretty much the same gauge you do in this video. When I rev it it still says 52. The weird thing is it takes a while to crank before it starts. Once it has started once it starts pretty quickly after that initial start. It doesn't seem to prime with just the key on unless I turn it on and off a few times or if I just crank on it till it starts. I am not sure what the fluctuating needle means, but it sounds like my pump is ok based on this video. It is at 52 and stays there while reved. I am not sure if the hard starting is because of the lack of prime, or if that is why it is stumbling. I am trying to rule out the pump. Any ideas of how I can rule out the pump as an issue? It seems like the pump is good but I am not sure if it is supposed to prime and if so why it isn't initially in the morning. This problem started randomly one day. I did replace my distributer, coil and wires because initially not only did I have this problem, but I lost spark too. I now have spark, but this weird hard start and stumbling issue. I am not asking you to fix my Jeep just guide me where to test more specifically based on my issue? Great video, lastly is my regulator on the top of my tank too on a 98? Thanks in advance. Oh also no codes, and the light does work.
Good video. What brand is the black pressure gauge ? Thanks
GOD DAMNIT maybe it's your wirhly beard but i like your wrenching/mechanic videos more then the next guys, much more to the point and informative love it! keep up the good work!
Thanks for your info. I have a 2004 Cadillac Deville NorthStar with 90K. I have seen many different specs for fuel pressure so I wanted to ask you, where can I find a definitive spec? Key on is 30psi, which seems low to me. I did replace the fuel filter and after draining old one it was difficult to blow through.
I have intermittent low fuel pressure. The fuel pump did die and was replaced with a new assembly (Delphi) and the fuel filter (Motorcraft) was replaced at the same time. Fuel pressure is usually 40 PSI (according to my scan tool) but sometimes it drops below 25 PSI and it even dropped to 0. I have replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor with a Standard part. There have been occasions where the pressure went to 60 PSI. What do you think the problem is? There is a Fuel Pump Driver Module that hasn't been replaced, also. There are no codes. The car drives OK except for some jerkiness when cruising at a particular speed. 2002 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L(2v).
Good video.. LOTS of good info in a short time. Came here after 95 Taurus failed to start first time since I owned it in 96 (just turned over 100K miles).. fuel pressure, spark, or (to add crazy variable) anti-theft alarm may be blocking either. Also cooling fan stuck on (coincidence or related??). It'll be an adventure and I'll learn much.
Will F P R keep an engine from starting ---Just bought this rig RV -- It was running but not great and revving it up and it would back fire. ---- Drove it a few miles, couldn't make the hill! Backed it down the hill. Then after shutting it off, I have only been able to start it one time! For a minute or so! Now I can't get it to start! ---- put in new plugs,, wires, Throttle Position Sensor. Rotating the timing! Puzzeled !!!! I do Disaster Relief, but not going anywhere until I am up and running! Thanks, Rick
Hey bud first off I like to say thanks for all your content you actually helped me out quite a bit....moving forward please... I have a 1997 dodge Dakota 3.9 gas..about 2 months ago I started to notice it losing power and every now and then a code GEN started showing on the dash.about a month ago it shut off twice on me while coming to a stop. Barely shifts gears and today it won’t stay running when engine warms up after that it shuts off quicker with every start only running for about 1-4 minutes on warm engine in ANY gear at a stop or while accelerating it would just shut off each start gets harder as engine warms.i changed out the tps and the iac and the battery as it then started needing a jump.unclogged the back cat also.please ANY suggestions would be HIGHLY appreciated!
I have a code with a p0171 on my corolla 2001 with 197k miles. I have done a tune up. Change all my motor intake gaskets, clean my maf sensor, inspect all vaccum leaks, new coils but I haven't change my fuel filter or my fuel injectors. Do you think changing my fuel filter would get my code fixed?
Hi BSK garage. My 2001 dodge ram van has a misfire at 3000 rpm, it starts fine I don't feel a miss when driving.The injectors and the fuel pump have been replaced about 2yrs ago. I suspect a no fuel misfire and the fuel press moves up slowly at KOEO. Goes to 44psi at KOErunning but falls fairly fast at shut down. What do you think? thank you Frank
2015 Chevy Impala 3.5l flex fuel .. Service Stable track kicked with engine kicked into limp mode code P228c. No smoke no noise no missing . Am running E85 any suggestions wiring checks out to fuel pressure regulator? Should I just replace the regulator is this a known issue with these Chevys ?
Have the exact same fuel pressure test gauge... wouldn't trade it for the other version even if the other version were free!
Yes it’s been good to me
Thanks to you I discovered I have a weak fuel pump. I’d like to go with a mopar replacement but those seem to be discontinued. Any recommendations on aftermarket pump assemblies I should get as a replacement???
I normally use rock auto or local part stores
Ok so riddle me this. Bought a fuel pressure test kit. Said I had ~9psi (1994 chevy suburban c1500 with 5.7L TBI). So I went ahead and changed the fuel pump and screen, and the fuel filter. Tester still shows ~9psi. No dip in pressure when I rev engine up. Sometimes idles a little rough (you can feel the hiccups every now n then.. maybe 2-6x a minute) and recently had a bout where my idle rpms were fluctuating by 100-300rpms. occasional hesitation during easy acceleration, stumbles and hesitates badly on hard acceleration, two times during hard acceleration my rpms dropped 1k in a split second and almost stalled. Has new pump, new fuel filter, new tps, relatively new distributor (rotor and contacts look good) so now I'm stumped.
What if it only acts up when the car is warm? I have done smoke test I have no vacuum leaks. I’ve replaced filter baskets on fuel injectors. I have replaced maf sensor.
Also with key to run position it jumps right up to 25 psi and slowly goes down to 10 psi.then an hr to 0
89 jeep Cherokee 4.0 I've replaced, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, tune up & I get horrible fuel mileage prob 9 to 10mpg it does have a 4 inch lift & 33's is that normal the only part of the fuel system I haven't replaced is the fuel pressure valve it does smell like its running really rich? Runs fine other than bad fuel mileage
I’ve got a 95 camaro 3.8 . I suspect the fuel pressure regulator is bad . But at first I suspected it was the fuel pump that was the fuel pump because the fuel pressure was at 42 lbs which is low. But after inspecting the rubber boot that connects to the fuel pressure regulator was lose and torn. So I replaced the rubber boot and and started the car. But after I checked to see if there was fuel in that line connected to the fuel pressure regulator and there was. Does that mean that fuel pressure regulator is bad?
I just changed the fuel pump only, not the module, now it blows out of the quick connect. Any advice
hello i replaced spark plugs, coils and spark plug wires....the car is surging and stalling in reverse or when i turn a corner,,i replaced the fuel filter it was very dirty..added fresh higher octane and still surging, extreme loss power..please advise 1998 kia sportage automatic 2 wheel drive..thanks!
Could it be the regulator if pressure is low?
I got a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 with the 7.4L. When I try to start the truck in the morning it takes about 15 seconds for it to build its own fuel pressure and start. But if it sits for longer than a day it starts up just fine like there’s no issue. When it’s hot starts but not like it’s supposed too meaning kinda sluggish. I hooked a gauge up to it and my fuel pressure is below 55 psi when running and slowly drops when turned off. I have no error codes in the computer so I’m kind of blind here. I know I have a return fuel pressure regulator, also when It’s been driving for a while and I put it in reverse it stalls sometimes but starts right back up. Anything helps thank you!
2008 dodge 1500 4.7 4x4 drive all day runs good all of a sudden stop at a light go to take off and it starts jumping like your stomping the gas and letting off. Pull over shut it down for ten minutes start up and it's fine..any ideas
Superb sir thankyou.steve from the uk
So if the fuel regulator circuit is open could that make my jeep not start?
I have a Buick Enclave 11 and complete a pressure test that at idle was roughly 50-60 psi bouncing back and forth crazy. Have you ever seen that before?
Did you figure it out? Mines jumping around 40-50 like crazy
Is it the same with fuel regulator? I have a fuel regulator with gauge. If I crank it and the gauge move means I have fuel pressure and my fuel pump is working good?
My 99 ford f150 would run great cold but as soon as it warmed up it would run rough idel rough and miss like crazy throughout driving and run fine after but smell raw fuel...also when you stopped at light idel would drop to 300 rpm ...changed fuel pressure regulator under hood and it's good to go...
Problem I took off safely clip on ford falcon ba and then took vacuum line off and has nothing holding it down so I used wd40 to try lose it up but it wouldn't come out
Hello..I have 2010 Chevy Cruze 2.0 in OBD2 it says p0089 Powertrain Suction Valve Stuck
Great video I'm trying new regulator also
Hi, my car runs great, can the slightest change on the fuel pressure trigger a code on bank 1 running lean?
(91 4runner) My cyl 3 plug is black and has buildup the other 5 have white tips like it's lean/hot but exhaust smells bad like gas and it's getting gas in the oil I'm assuming injector cause the other cylinders seem fine but any tips
Beard looks good man, thanks for the info 👍🏼
Is it the same with fuel regulator gauge?
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 C and I smell gas from the passenger side smells more like vapors please help find out what’s going And when I’m cruising is at normal speed it has a hesitation like I’m kind of hitting the brakes but not as bad is it in breaks
Very good information !!
Hmm. What causes the fuel pressure test gauge needle to erratically go up and down?
Why does my explorer with 4.0 ohv seem to do ok till I'm at hiway speed, then it may shut down after 8 miles or maybe even go 60 miles before it shuts down, but once I get off the road it's idling, shut the switch off then 2 or 3 seconds starts right back up and drive's fine till it does it again
Aha yes Fuel Pressure Regulator on an Android scanner and trouble obd2 code app gauge !!! But I’ve a non runner. Cannot get it to start. How do I test a fuel pressure regular. Thanks
I have a 1988 k1500 I rebuilt the tbi in and in hot whether the idle would drop to it almost stalled then picked back up for about the first 30 seconds after cranking. So I replaced the fuel filter helped a little. Now I replaced the pump and lost about 3 mpg. Any ideal what's going on? Didn't replace injectors or reset ecm.
Thank you so much for ur info, I have a 1999 dodge durango 5.9 150k,
My problem is that it sits at 1k to 2k RPMs At all times, I've already checked for vacumm leaks under the hood I looked at all the lines and did the brake cleaner test, Also replaced TPS sensor Map and idle air control valve new throttle body gasket but still the same However I haven't tested the fuel pressure,I had
Suspected maybe fuel regulator or faulty inhectors, please if you have any ideas let me know thank you so much!!
What if my vehicle is too old and doesn’t have a valve
Hey Thanks big guy great video and info
My truck seem to be fine at idle, even when I rev it some
But when I go to drive it, it seems to start misfiring and hesitate
When I park it and go back to idle, after a few minutes goes back to normal
Do you think it could be the regulator
Is a symptom that the oil smells like gas?
Hey great video, just had a question about my 1996 v8 crown majesta. Cranks over fine but excessive fuel is spitting out the exhaust , any ideas to look at for ?
If you have a carbretter, where the float is there is a small shut off valve to stop the carbretter from flooding and thay can get stuck, go on youtube and look up float needle if you do have a carbretter
Hi I've got Porsche Cayenne turbo 2012 3.0 diesel I left headlights on come back to car 3 days after being in unit... I tried starting the car but it wouldn't start as battery was low so I've put jump leads on and car cranks but don't start so I've tried boost pack jumped the car, it started but immediately cuts off do you know why this is happening I'm so confused in what's gone wrong and I'm stuck I've paid a lot of money for this car to stop the engine from staying on and working....
Can you help?
I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra Texas limited edition and it died on me driving. The error code it gives me is P0300. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. When I tried to start the truck again, it ran rough and then the engine light came on with the same error code. I figured I would change the spark plugs and coils and now all the cylinders are misfiring. Any suggestions?
I have a 58psi fpr but the fuel rail is reading over 70 and the needle is bouncing fast between 70 and 75. Is this a bad fpr? Its also making s loud whine noise coming from the fpr
I have a 95 XJ with 5 speed transmission. My issue is an intermittent roughness due to (I think) rich fuel condition. The reason it think it's a rich fuel condition is because of poor fuel economy (13mpg) I've replaced TPS, O2 sensor and IAC valve. symptoms still persist. I will be replacing fuel pressure regulator. Just replaced injectors with 4 hole. fuel filter is new and air filter is clean. Is it possibly caused by ethanol fuels as I only fill the tank about once a month. I've found a local station that has non ethanol fuel, but I'm 3 weeks from a fill up. Any help is greatly appreciated.
is that a rtm solo on your garage?
My 2004 wrangler 4.0 doesn’t have the valve. Damn it
I Have A 1988 Camaro It’s A 305 And Has Carb It Will Start It Could Run For A Hour But When I Hard Accelerate On The Gas It Hesitates And Stumbles .To Get To 35 Is Hard And I Have To Ease It To 50...THIS CAR IS DRIVING ME CRAZY 😂 These are the things I have already done New Spark Plugs And Wires,Distributor and Rotor Cap,New Map Sensor,New IAC Valve,New Egr Valve,New IAT Sensor And Connector(This Is Still Sending SES Light?) New Air Filter, New Fuel Filter, Seafoam Treatment, New TPS Sensor, The Cat Was Clogged So I Got It Straight Piped! Any Ideas At All Would Be Greatly Appreciated😭😂🤯
Your like 👍 and a new subscriber thank you sir
My 1986 f150 sat for 4 years and the pump I finally replaced it is fuel injected and when I fire it up it will run for 20 seconds and die unless I give it gas but even then it still runs like shit and won’t rev up and still dies when you let off.could it be the fuel regulator?
Will the fuel regulator function if you put the ignition key to the ON position?
yes
Also switched the relays, and did a fuel pressure test - 45 - took a minute and a half to drain off to 35 , figure that was the hook up. Checked the line, took the line apart after the fuel filter! Thanks, Any Ideas!
Just checked my fuel pressure 2000 TJ... 20 PSI.... no power, time for new pump
How much higher pressure than the specification can cause black smoke
Can a fuel pressure regularor be cleaned
too bad you can't disconnect the fuel line on sentra 2005 to tap in a shrader T valve to measure pressure. no matter what fuel disconnect tool you try.
Cool vid, nice education Thanks!
Can a fuel pressure regulator cause my chevy 94' 5.7 to lose speed on the freeway when doing 70mph for 5 minutes. it acts like Im easing my foot off the gas pedal but Im not, Im trying to hold speed. When I press the pedal it hesitates and the throttle doenst seem to respond. If I mash the gas itll pick up an go again but the horsepower feels like its cutting in and out, its only happening at night. Daytime it runs GREAT, headlights on during the day, runs GREAT, but at night after I et off work at 11pm, it will spaz out after 5 minutes of 70+mph on the freeway. If I keep it under 65mph then it seems to be fine. If it starts spazing out on the freeway then it will continue to spaz out after I get off the freeway too, hesitating from the red light when it turns green, like there is no horsepower behind it. Ive replaced the fuel pump/ filter and injectors, the EGR valve, the o2 sensor the Throttle pos sensor, and the Ignition control module so far. Please help !!!!! LOL
I'm having the same problem with my 93 4.3 TBI. Is your 94 5.7 multiport or TBI?
@@MrAlittle5150 TBI. It looks like my issue was wiring. It has a big draw on the lead wire going to the junction at the firewall, it looks like the ignition wire and switch were causing freeway problems for me.
Will it cause no start
How often should I change a fuel pressure regulator?
What pressures percentage should it be for Honda Element 2004 50-60% or 90 like my dunz neighbor said.???
On a 2002 5.3 vortec I have 80 PSI to rail, but the pressure doesn't make it past the regulator to the passenger side rail. any ideas?
Damn dude that was a really good explain, amazing job, now I know how to test the fuel pressure on my 94' Honda Civic with the D15 series engine
What about fuel in the oil 02 lincoln town car what do you think can be the problem? Thank you in advance
I'd almost certainly suspect the injectors.
@@williamrekow7513 thank you
What a legend. Excellent
I have a fuel rail pressure gauge installed.
My 03 avalanche is not holding pressure overnight. engine off and primed its at 42. Idle is 42-44. Revved up, there is a small increase by a few points.
It doesn't hard start, there is a slight vibration at idle. Fuel trims are within spec.
I had the fuel rail out while pressurized, I did not see or notice any leaks of fuel.
Within an hour to two hours, the fuel pressure gauge installed on the rail shows zero.
Would this be most likely a bad fuel pressure regulator?
thanks
Could be numerous things including a leaking injector
jerry bskorner
If you disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR and see an RPM increase as expected, does this mean the FPR is always good, or us it possible for it to pass that test and still be bad?
Thanks
I have a 2007 VW Passat 2.0T - FSI engine & the car has 2 fuel pumps , It has the Low Pressure fuel pump in the gas tank & There is a High Pressure fuel pump up at the engine , The problem I'm having is when I hook up the fuel pressure gauge & Start up at the engine for the Low pressure fuel pump the gauge will go crazy , The PSI will stay around 60 to 80 PSI but the pressure gauge needle jumps back and forth very rapidly where I can't almost see it / The needle moves so fast between 60 & 80 PSI , Anyone ever seen anything like that before ? And what could be cause it ?
Great Video. So easy explained 👍
When your watching the pressure do you leave the key on or off..? I have 40lbs but I turned the key off and it dropped to 35lbs in 10 minutes on a 95 impala ss and running (idling) the pressure is 30 to 31 lbs
Hey sir I have a BMW 2014 5 series. Just recently started to feel rough idle, check engine light came on... Scanned the code and it said P0001 (Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit) Would this be fuel pressure regulator?
Hey was wondering if you can help me I'm from UK I have an audi a1 tfsi 168hp turbo and when I idle my engine light Flashes but as soon as I drive or take rpm up it goes off then when I check the code it says fuel pressure release valve activated only happens when idle and car runs fine when driving? Also comes up cylider 2 missfire only when idle I have changed spark plugs and also it only ever happens some times like some days it will come on right away other days it won't happen at all
Thanks for the helpful info, I have a 2014 hundyia elantra and on cold startup sounds like a motorboat and I have to try a few times to keep it running other than that it's good on the startup. However I deliver pizza and lately I've been having issues with it wanting to Surge out after I've been driving for a few hours it has a really rough idle and almost dies but doesn't die it also hesitates at times. And these problems increase when I turn my AC on. You have any idea what that might be I really appreciate it thanks
Probably fuel filter
Have you ever heard of a FPR whining making a loud horn like sound?
I did put the gauge but the needle was fluctuating up to 60 and going down to 45 and not going steady to a certain number. Can anyone tell me what’s going on? Thanks
what if you unhook the fuel pressure regulator hose and nothing happens. The gauge doesn't move or anything
THANKS.... I NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT THE VACUUM TESTER , I THOUGHT YOU COULD DO THAT BUT COULDN'T REMEMBER IF THAT WAS A VALID TEST OR NOT!! GOOD VIDEO THANKS
If I put a vacuum hand pump on a suspect FPR how much vacuum should it require to open, and with no vacuum applied should it be partially open or completely closed?
probably too much. they need 4 bar or something
Sounds like regulator they are saying fuel pump? No black smoke 02 Sentra 1.8 all symptoms no black smoke 300.000 miles
Thanks man. Hope this helps. I will return for a sincere thank you when it does 😆
Hello, Jerry! I have a strange problem with an Audi A3 1.6 from 2001: a few minutes after the engine has reached normal running temperature, it starts hesitating, it loses power when driving at a constant speed and when accelarating, also it has a very rough idle giving the impression that it wants to stall; if i exceed 60 mph, those problems seem to disappear and the car accelerates normaly up to 95-100 mph; on the tester it shows the p1176 and p0171 codes; i've changed the coil pack, coil lines, spark plugs, maf sensor and egr valve with no success in solving the problems, so i'm tired of listening to my mechanic. do you have any idea about what could cause this problem? i mean, what would be the first thing you would check? thanks!
loading up the parts cannon and $$$$$$ away doesn't solve the problem. you need to investigate with a real scanner what the sensors are doing when all this is happening and do some problem solving.
Do you recommend a certain type of scanner?
Did you solve the issue with your Audi? My 2005 Chrysler Sebring Biggs down upon acceleration. Holds good generally at 35 MPH and better on certain days, meaning it can hold speed. New MAP sensor and fuel pump.
Christian, I know it's been 4 years but please tell me you found the issue, my turbo is300 is doing great exactly what you just said?! Please help!!!
@@nicholaskhan5632 Hello! I understand you have a similar problem to the one I had. First of all, my car is naturally aspirated and yours is a turbo so there are some differences in the way the engines work (my engine creates vacuum, your engine creates pressure). My problem was an Oxygen sensor, the one that adjusts the ration between gasoline and oxygen in the cylinders. This sensor is located on the exhaust, between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter. From what I understand, when you start your car and the engine is cold this sensor doesn't work because it needs to get hot, so the engine uses a predetermined gas/oxygen ratio that's stored in the car's computer. After a few minutes since you started your car, this sensor gets hot and so it begins to do its job, that is to determine that ration according to what it reads in the exhaust gases. If this sensor malfunctions, then it gives errors in determining that ration which causes a rough running engine, but like i said, only when the engine is warm. When it's cold, the engine runs great.
Holy Schnikies, outdoorsman beard FTW.
Its gold Jerry, I tell ya, its GOLD!!!
Stay gold.
Hi i need help my car is losing power over 3 and above rpms and sometimes when i get to a stop and try to go the car seems to struggle to go on till a hit the cluth and then accelerate again what can this mean? I put a fuel pressure regulator and its on 28 psi when i accelerate the car it goes down to 22 and jumps to 30 psi then again to 28 psi i disconected the pressure line thats next to the gas line and it went up to 40 i went to take a ride to see how it felt and it did felt very good came back home checked it again and it was at 50 psi i then went to take another ride and it was losing power again i already changed the fuel filter what can the problem be ? Please help!
Would this be the same simptoms in a diesel? I lose fuel pressure once in a while but after pumping the pressure up manually it's good again
Thanks for your help I really need it.👍