You are literally the only person that makes sense on this topic, I have a crf150r and I had problems with bog and I tried everything. Just until I found this, I tried and it my bike runs 110% better. Thank you dude. Really thank you
You made my day awesome today. First YT video i opened. Answered my question instantly. THANK YOU SIR. Coz i just bought an old YZ250 ‘06. My very first dirtbike. My 11yo race on his 65cc ktm. 3 yrs now, I fast paced learn how to fix and maintain this lil ripper. I dont have a deep pocket, so we have to rely on diy. Now i got me a dirtbike so i dont have to watch him ride anymore. I tore down this yz already twice, to clean and learn the bike inside out. I noticed this o-ring wrap around that accl pump adjuster. And YOU sir just gave the answer. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE DETAILED EXPLANATIONS in regards to this part of the carb. Your lessons are priceless. Buying you a dozen of beerz still priceless. Have a great day.
Thank you! I had the o-ring on but I jumped to a QuickShot, JD kit and different jets, trying to get the bog worked out. After watching your video, turns out that screw was so far out, I was only getting 1/2 a shot of fuel. I adjusted that and got immediate results. The QS, JD and jets did absolutely nothing when I adjusted them. I have a Rekluse auto-clutch and the bike is idling low. I turned up the idle and that contributed to it being much snappier as well. I believe a Rekluse can magnify the bog problem. Thanks for taking time to post this.
I was having crazy bad bogging issues on my 11 ktm 530. Managed to adjust the slop out of the ap using the adjustment screw. Had to look carefully at where the rod that presses the diaphragm sits in the black plastic arm. You can see the slop and find where it is no longer pressing the rod down at all. Absolutely rips now no bog from idle while riding. I am also using the thick o ring from the JD jet kit. Worked great for me without removing the carb from the bike. Only the seat and gas tank.
Thanks Matt. My 2004 wr250f has always had a terrible bog in the throttle. After watching your video and following your steps and adding the o-ring it has made a huge difference!!!!
Yes! I was about to ask, what happens if I set up the carb as shown in this video, but my idle is not setup.... I have carb off the bike atm... This was super informative! Many thanks for sharing this!
I did this with an 06 crf250r I bought for nothing , none one could get rid of the bog . worked 100percent . bog gone runs like a beauty , great video thanks .
I recently bought an 05 crf 250r, hard to start as well, but runs good, checked valves, they're in spec, spark plug and air filter look good, next is re-jetting, and I suppose I'll check my accelerator pump as well...Didnt know that could be out of adjustment...(my first dirtbike) wish me luck...
@@John_Doe_6996 good luck! just an fyi now that mine is broken in, i had to do another valve adjustment. everything has to be perfect on these motors for them to start easy appearantly. but at least they'll run forever haha! p.s. try a smooth kick from top dead center instead of giving it all you got. seems to like that better
Thank you so much for this. AP pump timing has always been gypsy magic to me and I've been living with the Honda bog for ages. No one really has a good video of this until now so thank you lol
@@HTMR Hi Matt. What if you have inline 4 carbs and carbs 2, 3, and 4 squirt gas when you actuate throttle, but carb 1 doesn't? Keihein carbs on an 82 honda 650 nighthawk. Issue with accelerator pump? Or perhaps a clog somewhere?
FROM DA BIG ISLAND THANK U SO MUCH YOUR VIDEO HELPED ME SOLVE MY PROBLEM I HAVE A 05YZ250F AND WAS REALLY WAS HAVING A REALLY BAD BOG NOW BIKE IS MINT GOD BLESS AND MAHALO AGAIN😉😎🍒🤙
This is a commonly overlooked thing on a modern 4-stroke mx bike with the Keihin FCR-MX Carb. Pretty much all common bike brands use a version of this carb if it's a 4-stroke high performance bike. Very easy thing to check and will minimize if not eliminate any off-idle hesitation or bog. Highly recommend ALL of you to do this inspection. (this as well as clean your dang carb every once in a while - and inspect your pilot jet for blockage - AND never never never use standard ethanol-based pump gas. (Because it can clog your pilot jet over time.)
@@bikersoncall If you're somewhere that doesn't sell non-ethanol fuel, your best bet is VP T4 Fuel. It's 97 octane ethanol-free fuel for stock or slightly modified engines. It's expensive as hell at $110 for 5gal but it's an option if you really don't want corn in your bike.
For best results, you should be performing this with the slide lifted 0.8mm. I use an appropriately sized bbq skewer to hold it open while performing the backlash adjustment.
I've read that in the manual. I guess they are assuming that if the idle screw is not adjusted to where it needs to be (lifting the slide) then you need to lift with rod. At the end of the day, you want minimal clearance/backlash for a quick shot.
Very clear instructional video thanks. I'm looking to upgrade my z400 stock carb that's jetted to a fcr style currently running a 170 main and 75 low jets with a Yoshi pipe and stainless header she does good now but I want little more for the hole shot
I'm having to remove my carb to find out why my plastic black idol screw won't turn and while it's off in definitely going to be looking at and doing it if it's not already set up. Thank you
This is hands down the best video on getting the accelerator pump tweaked for maximum performance. Getting that “play” - “slop” is the key! And the Oring is a must. I would also recommend the shorter post diaphragm and smaller leak jet. My crf250r acts like it’s fuel injected.
The kits are available at CRF Only website along with instructions. I prematurely ruined the original on my Accelerator pump with carb cleaner😏. Found the CRF Only kits to be a good buy. I’ve picked up two over the years.
Wish my Mikuni TM33 had some apump adjustments on it. Quick opening the throttle like you did has a stutter, and then acceleration kicks in. I'll have to look it over.
@@amandagregg2195 take the black plastic cover of that is on the right side of the carb. And then just turn the adjuster screw to when there is almost no play in the arm. ( the guy in the vid made it more clear then i can do, sorry😅)
Thanks for great video! One question, you say squirt time should be 0.8-1 sec, but in you video it's about 0.4 when you say it looks good, so what should I aim for?
Great video. I went to go double check my 05 wr450f’s ac pump only to find out it wasnt even squirting at all. The smaller o-ring under the ac pump cover was totally flattened to the point where the hole was pin sized. Also the brass nozzle it squirts out of was clogged. I un-clogged it all bought an all balls rebuild kit and now it squirts just like this video. Cant wait to try it now and see the throttle response difference. It barely even bogged before also
Well I went to adjust this, and I couldn't replicate the play you showed so I got confused. Then I realized that the AP isn't squirting at all... Sweet
@@jarredscott2646 soaked in gas, then soapy water, no luck still. Tried squirting carb cleaner through the passage. In the end what worked was pushing fishing line through the passage and moving the check valve back and forth with cleaner in it
THANK YOU SO FUCKIN MUCH!!!! this is a ****** MASTERPIECE!!!! i tried almost every place on earth to calibrate my accelerator pump but nowhere was this clear as this vid!!! MAD PROPS TO YOU MATE!
nice vid, i appreciate.i like it how you keep it simple and load it with info,you know other channels all seem scripted and have same old info repeated and sometimes more about the presenter.could you know a thing or two or anything about stators?especially winding lighting coil on to stock stator of a dirtbike?
This is a great video and I love watching your expertise. I have a 07 yz250f and as soon as I did the o-ring mod it started bogging badly. I took the carb off and my ap arm has no slop in it without the throttle cable rigged up whether it's screwed all the way in or not. Should I just set the timing after it has the tension from the throttle cables?
Just cleaned one of these, for my kx250f. Complete teardown and ultrasonic cleaning. Everything seems good but I have alot of backfire win I get into 3/4 -full throttle and let off. Is that my main jet to big or is it float bowl level. Had a hard time adjusting the float.
This video helped me a lot thank you. I have the accelerator pump dialed in; however, I still notice a slight bog here and there when just cracking the throttle... and sometimes a hanging idle. Would you suspect a pilot jet being too lean?
Thanks for the video, helps a lot. I have a Husqvarna SM610 (600cc) and my carb is Keihin FCR MX 41. Do you know if I change the OEM leak jet for the 45 size that you mentioned , it will works for me???
sorry for the late post, great video, crf450x ap pump its working ok but squirt duration is too short, i have the o ring mod and the squirt timing is fine. how to improve squirt duration? bike bog on wot and then recover really hard.
Okey so i've done what you did in this video (back in september). I setup the squirt just perfect with just a tiny bit of play. Still my bike bogs when i go full throttle on low rpm. I saw that the idle/pilot jet was slightly damaged tho, On the top were you screw it. It's like a crack. It is btw a idle/pilot jet 45 (Original). Should i buy a new 45 or should i go higher? The next option that i have from 45 is 48. Btw it is a KTM 525sx from 2004. So it is the exact same carb.
I have a 06 trx450er with stage 2 hotcams,stock Ferrea Valves,100mm Athena Cylinder with CP Carillo piston and full Barkers exhaust,stock air filter no lid,the acc pump screw was moved around, so I'd like to ask your opinion on jetting and timing screw? Sea level is 105' thanks and great video brother!!!!
I can't recommend specific jets, as I never jetted your combo. First, start by tuning your pilot jet fuel screw per this video: howtomotorcyclerepair.com/how-to-4-stroke-mx-fuel-screw-adjustment-yzf-crf-kxf-rmz-fcr/
Awesome video man! I am restoring a 02 DRZ 400e with the slant style FCR. Unfortunately this carb does not provide a screw to adust AP timing. However, there is a U shaped piece of metal that can be bent to adjust the AP lever up and down. I watched the video multiple times and adjusted the pump even more but i cant quite get it perfect. How can this be transferred to the slant carb?
Awesome vid! You sure have helped me understand. I seem to be having to much squirt. Was looking at the Boysen Quick Shot 3 accelerator pump cover with adjustable leak valve. Would you recommend? Thanks
@@Doctors101 I would just install a 45 leak and oring. Total cost $10. Also make sure fuel screw and pilot jet are setup and you will have a bike that runs mint and save some money. Usually I install 1 larger size on pilot jet to net me 2.5 out on fuel screw.
Great vid. Having a hard time figuring out a lean condition and decel popping on my crf 450x. Have to turn the fuel screw out more than 2.5 turns to make it run right without popping exaust or glowing header pipe. Pilot jet is a 60, main jet is a 175. Air box has been opened up and has a fmf pipe. Any advice on what to do to tune it so I can run the fuel screw 1.5 to 2 turns out without the exaust decel popping is welcomed.
You need to richen up the pilot jet. However you already are at a 60??? That is pretty big. Check for vacuum leaks and make sure hot start plunger is clean and operational.
I tried finding a #78 o-ring and for some reason danco uses weird numbers. For those of you looking a #108 o-ring is the number most manufacturers use it's 1/4 i.d. 3/32 cross section 7/16 o.d. do you know if you can use a #202? Which would be 1/4" I.d. 1/8" cross section 1/2" o.d. if it fits it should last longer?
Great video.. and i have a question regarding the tps. People say that disconnecting tps will reduce the throttle response and bike bogs but if i disconnect the tps and still setup the AP like you did will the bike still lack throttle response or there will be no any issues whatsoever with tps disconnected and AP working as it should. Please help me out.
MatthewMCRepair thanks for replying. But the thing is i am installing this carb in a bike that has no tps connection provided and it actually have a stock carb which also doesnot have tps. It uses mikuni tm 34 style carburetor so i am upgrading it to a carb with an accelerator pump in it.
Hey man, love the videos, you just do an excelente job, I have a little issue with my new FCR33 carb, it idles good and when i accelerate from bottom to top (on neutral) it seems good, but when i go to ride, it stumbles at mid rpms (half throttle), it goes like ta...tatata...tata..tata..., Then I keep accelerating at full throttle and the stumble disappears, and runs ok on top of acceleration. I changed the needles and it keeps stumbling at mid acceleration. It only happens when I go to ride, but not on neutral. Please i'll appreciate your comments.
![Keihin FCR AP Not Squirting [How To Clean/Adjust Accelerator Pump]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q4chsxhGXz4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Keihin FCR AP Not Squirting [How To Clean/Adjust Accelerator Pump]](/img/tr.png)
probably one of the most informative and easy to understand creators I have watched
This was very, very good. Taking the time to show over, under, and well adjusted, both from the mechanic's point of view and in action, is gold.
Thanks Kyle!
You are literally the only person that makes sense on this topic, I have a crf150r and I had problems with bog and I tried everything. Just until I found this, I tried and it my bike runs 110% better. Thank you dude. Really thank you
Glad it helped.
You made my day awesome today. First YT video i opened. Answered my question instantly. THANK YOU SIR. Coz i just bought an old YZ250 ‘06. My very first dirtbike. My 11yo race on his 65cc ktm. 3 yrs now, I fast paced learn how to fix and maintain this lil ripper. I dont have a deep pocket, so we have to rely on diy.
Now i got me a dirtbike so i dont have to watch him ride anymore.
I tore down this yz already twice, to clean and learn the bike inside out. I noticed this o-ring wrap around that accl pump adjuster. And YOU sir just gave the answer. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE DETAILED EXPLANATIONS in regards to this part of the carb. Your lessons are priceless. Buying you a dozen of beerz still priceless. Have a great day.
Thank you! I had the o-ring on but I jumped to a QuickShot, JD kit and different jets, trying to get the bog worked out. After watching your video, turns out that screw was so far out, I was only getting 1/2 a shot of fuel. I adjusted that and got immediate results. The QS, JD and jets did absolutely nothing when I adjusted them. I have a Rekluse auto-clutch and the bike is idling low. I turned up the idle and that contributed to it being much snappier as well. I believe a Rekluse can magnify the bog problem. Thanks for taking time to post this.
Your welcome!
Y a auto clutch man u yankys man its all in the clutch mate trust me i rekon its cheating definatly in enduro clutch for me on anything car n bike
I was having crazy bad bogging issues on my 11 ktm 530. Managed to adjust the slop out of the ap using the adjustment screw. Had to look carefully at where the rod that presses the diaphragm sits in the black plastic arm. You can see the slop and find where it is no longer pressing the rod down at all. Absolutely rips now no bog from idle while riding. I am also using the thick o ring from the JD jet kit. Worked great for me without removing the carb from the bike. Only the seat and gas tank.
Thanks Matt.
My 2004 wr250f has always had a terrible bog in the throttle. After watching your video and following your steps and adding the o-ring it has made a huge difference!!!!
No problem. If you are looking for an even bigger difference, throw a smaller leak in there.
Two years later and you are still helping motorcycles, my scooter now accelerates a bit better thanks to you haha cheers
Yes! I was about to ask, what happens if I set up the carb as shown in this video, but my idle is not setup.... I have carb off the bike atm...
This was super informative! Many thanks for sharing this!
You deserve an award for humanitarian aid. Thanks again
I did this with an 06 crf250r I bought for nothing , none one could get rid of the bog . worked 100percent . bog gone runs like a beauty , great video thanks .
My old Husaberg FE450 liked this.
Im doing this on my gf's husaberg right now😇
@@myran_moto330 y
You are the man, between this video and the fuel screw video I was able to dial in both my 450r and my wife's 150r. THANK YOU!
No prob!
Bro I was fighting my 05 yfz for hours before watching this video. You are the man thank you so damn much.
Ur the only one who helped me
Just want to say thanks for these awesome instructional videos I appreciate your work 🙏
This is a perfect instructional video for setting up the Keihin AP. Thank you!
Thanks man, I'm a novice to carburetors and that was well explained.
thank you! i just rebuilt a crf250 and this was the one thing keeping it from starting properly. went from 50 kicks to 1 with one small adjustment!
I recently bought an 05 crf 250r, hard to start as well, but runs good, checked valves, they're in spec, spark plug and air filter look good, next is re-jetting, and I suppose I'll check my accelerator pump as well...Didnt know that could be out of adjustment...(my first dirtbike) wish me luck...
@@John_Doe_6996 good luck! just an fyi now that mine is broken in, i had to do another valve adjustment. everything has to be perfect on these motors for them to start easy appearantly. but at least they'll run forever haha! p.s. try a smooth kick from top dead center instead of giving it all you got. seems to like that better
Thank you so much for this. AP pump timing has always been gypsy magic to me and I've been living with the Honda bog for ages. No one really has a good video of this until now so thank you lol
No problem. I hope I simplified how to set it up.
@@HTMR Hi Matt. What if you have inline 4 carbs and carbs 2, 3, and 4 squirt gas when you actuate throttle, but carb 1 doesn't? Keihein carbs on an 82 honda 650 nighthawk. Issue with accelerator pump? Or perhaps a clog somewhere?
@@jrich240h Nozzle is probably clogged.
My guy. You saved me and this headache. Thank you for the great video.
Carbs are tricky. Thanks for the help.
Fixed my bike so happy thanks mate
FROM DA BIG ISLAND THANK U SO MUCH YOUR VIDEO HELPED ME SOLVE MY PROBLEM I HAVE A 05YZ250F AND WAS REALLY WAS HAVING A REALLY BAD BOG NOW BIKE IS MINT GOD BLESS AND MAHALO AGAIN😉😎🍒🤙
This is a commonly overlooked thing on a modern 4-stroke mx bike with the Keihin FCR-MX Carb. Pretty much all common bike brands use a version of this carb if it's a 4-stroke high performance bike. Very easy thing to check and will minimize if not eliminate any off-idle hesitation or bog. Highly recommend ALL of you to do this inspection. (this as well as clean your dang carb every once in a while - and inspect your pilot jet for blockage - AND never never never use standard ethanol-based pump gas. (Because it can clog your pilot jet over time.)
Where do you get non ethanol fuel?
@@bikersoncall yeah exactly that's the problem 😂
@@bikersoncall If you're somewhere that doesn't sell non-ethanol fuel, your best bet is VP T4 Fuel. It's 97 octane ethanol-free fuel for stock or slightly modified engines. It's expensive as hell at $110 for 5gal but it's an option if you really don't want corn in your bike.
Thank u. My Wr400f is happier now. And so am I
This is an awesome video! The temp fuel setup to show the fuel delivery difference is great. Thank you.
Thanks a lot mate, you deserve a billion likes.
Thanks!
Thanks man. I definitely learned a lot on these types of carburetors. Since i was used to bikes with no AP's Thumbs up man
For best results, you should be performing this with the slide lifted 0.8mm. I use an appropriately sized bbq skewer to hold it open while performing the backlash adjustment.
I've read that in the manual. I guess they are assuming that if the idle screw is not adjusted to where it needs to be (lifting the slide) then you need to lift with rod. At the end of the day, you want minimal clearance/backlash for a quick shot.
Awesome! Definitely needed this video! Running into this problem with the yz450f at the moment…
Very clear instructional video thanks. I'm looking to upgrade my z400 stock carb that's jetted to a fcr style currently running a 170 main and 75 low jets with a Yoshi pipe and stainless header she does good now but I want little more for the hole shot
I subbed! Great video, I wish every video was as on point as this one
The o ring hack did the trick!!! Thanks man!
I'm having to remove my carb to find out why my plastic black idol screw won't turn and while it's off in definitely going to be looking at and doing it if it's not already set up. Thank you
This is hands down the best video on getting the accelerator pump tweaked for maximum performance. Getting that “play” - “slop” is the key! And the Oring is a must. I would also recommend the shorter post diaphragm and smaller leak jet. My crf250r acts like it’s fuel injected.
Yes, I always use a 45 leak. Haven't had to tweak the posts as of yet.
The kits are available at CRF Only website along with instructions. I prematurely ruined the original on my Accelerator pump with carb cleaner😏. Found the CRF Only kits to be a good buy. I’ve picked up two over the years.
HUGE THANKS.NOW MY BIKE RUNS AMAZING.👌🙏🙌
This trick fixed my issues thank you
Wish my Mikuni TM33 had some apump adjustments on it. Quick opening the throttle like you did has a stutter, and then acceleration kicks in. I'll have to look it over.
Great, exactly what I need for my 09 yz250f. I'll try it tomorrow
Great video on a much overlooked topic. Thanks, man. Good work!
Thanks!
THANK YOU! This is the only vid i can find that explains verry clearly how to adjust the accelerator pump! My bike runs perfect now✊😀.
How do you adjust accelerator pump I am rebuilding carb bike starting without choke
@@amandagregg2195 take the black plastic cover of that is on the right side of the carb. And then just turn the adjuster screw to when there is almost no play in the arm. ( the guy in the vid made it more clear then i can do, sorry😅)
Thanks for great video! One question, you say squirt time should be 0.8-1 sec, but in you video it's about 0.4 when you say it looks good, so what should I aim for?
Just did this to my carb on a 06 250x fixed most the bog issue I had once warmed up and ur going u couldn’t tell no more. Plus jd jet kit
Great video. I went to go double check my 05 wr450f’s ac pump only to find out it wasnt even squirting at all. The smaller o-ring under the ac pump cover was totally flattened to the point where the hole was pin sized. Also the brass nozzle it squirts out of was clogged. I un-clogged it all bought an all balls rebuild kit and now it squirts just like this video. Cant wait to try it now and see the throttle response difference. It barely even bogged before also
Thanks really much for your video!!
I gonna try to make this simple mods in my wr250f and kill the bad effect of the bike die when accelerating fast
Bravo Matt…Another classic!
Awesome, thanks! I have this problem ond will fix it tomorrow!
Fantastic video. Thank you for taking the time!
Well I went to adjust this, and I couldn't replicate the play you showed so I got confused. Then I realized that the AP isn't squirting at all... Sweet
So what did you do after that?
@@jarredscott2646 soaked in gas, then soapy water, no luck still. Tried squirting carb cleaner through the passage. In the end what worked was pushing fishing line through the passage and moving the check valve back and forth with cleaner in it
What size main jet and pilot jet would u recomend? Great video thank u!
Thank you so much this made my day
Well done video. Probably the best one I've seen.
THANK YOU SO FUCKIN MUCH!!!! this is a ****** MASTERPIECE!!!! i tried almost every place on earth to calibrate my accelerator pump but nowhere was this clear as this vid!!! MAD PROPS TO YOU MATE!
Your f***in welcome :)
Thanl you so much for the valuable info you provide us !!!!
Very thorough video man. Thank you. Liked, saved, and subbed.
Thank you so much for helping with theese carburetors, sub for you!
Great video !!it was very helpful in my wr450f.. Best regards from Argentina
nice vid, i appreciate.i like it how you keep it simple and load it with info,you know other channels all seem scripted and have same old info repeated and sometimes more about the presenter.could you know a thing or two or anything about stators?especially winding lighting coil on to stock stator of a dirtbike?
There are companies that will add a lighting coil. It really depends on year make model and if there is room for one.
Straight to the point! Thanks Bro.
This is a great video and I love watching your expertise. I have a 07 yz250f and as soon as I did the o-ring mod it started bogging badly. I took the carb off and my ap arm has no slop in it without the throttle cable rigged up whether it's screwed all the way in or not. Should I just set the timing after it has the tension from the throttle cables?
Set the timing after idle has been adjusted. Oring must be removed for this.
@@HTMR thank you for your reply!
Cheers mate . Your a legend
Shout out from brazil
mate....cheers for these vids....bloody awesome...keep it up...some of us get all the info needed...even with the lighting or whatever lol
Haha thanks for the compliments! I think the lighting was off only in the intro...but who watches that anyway, right?
excellent video. your a pro man.
Merci pour l astuce
Ça fonctionne au top
thanks for the tip it works at the top
🤙
Very helpful, thanks for a great video!
Just cleaned one of these, for my kx250f. Complete teardown and ultrasonic cleaning. Everything seems good but I have alot of backfire win I get into 3/4 -full throttle and let off. Is that my main jet to big or is it float bowl level. Had a hard time adjusting the float.
When you let off, you are back on the pilot circuit. Tune your pilot jet and fuel screw per this video: ua-cam.com/video/kUw41sUQbTY/v-deo.html
Nice clean explanation, thank you very much!
Should I plan on putting a new diaphragm on my 06 yz250f? How long do they last?
Take it apart and inspect it. If original, then yes replace it.
Timing looked good but very short squirt. Changed out the leak jet to a 40 and the bog is gone! Thanks for the video!
This video helped me a lot thank you. I have the accelerator pump dialed in; however, I still notice a slight bog here and there when just cracking the throttle... and sometimes a hanging idle. Would you suspect a pilot jet being too lean?
Hanging idle is lean. Adjust the fuel screw. If you get to 3 turns out, increase pilot jet size : ua-cam.com/video/kUw41sUQbTY/v-deo.html
@@HTMR thanks!!!! I am 3.5 turns out so I’m definitely lean.
Appreciate the info!!!
Great! Keep it up!
Very nice video! Gonna try on my 05 wr 450f
Mate you should upload more often !!!
Trying! I have a full time job and 4 kids. Need to hire someone...LOL.
Beautifull video mate! !!!! Many thanks !!!!!
Thanks for the video, helps a lot. I have a Husqvarna SM610 (600cc) and my carb is Keihin FCR MX 41. Do you know if I change the OEM leak jet for the 45 size that you mentioned , it will works for me???
You saved my life!
Thanks needed just this kind of information...well done...well explained
Your welcome!
sorry for the late post, great video, crf450x ap pump its working ok but squirt duration is too short, i have the o ring mod and the squirt timing is fine. how to improve squirt duration? bike bog on wot and then recover really hard.
Take a look at the rivet length on bottom of diaphragm. If you have a long rivet, you can grind it down to increase duration.
Tomorow i will try, i hope it will work for me.
Okey so i've done what you did in this video (back in september). I setup the squirt just perfect with just a tiny bit of play. Still my bike bogs when i go full throttle on low rpm.
I saw that the idle/pilot jet was slightly damaged tho, On the top were you screw it. It's like a crack.
It is btw a idle/pilot jet 45 (Original). Should i buy a new 45 or should i go higher? The next option that i have from 45 is 48.
Btw it is a KTM 525sx from 2004. So it is the exact same carb.
Damn, super great video!!!! Thx a lot!!!
I have a 06 trx450er with stage 2 hotcams,stock Ferrea Valves,100mm Athena Cylinder with CP Carillo piston and full Barkers exhaust,stock air filter no lid,the acc pump screw was moved around, so I'd like to ask your opinion on jetting and timing screw? Sea level is 105' thanks and great video brother!!!!
I can't recommend specific jets, as I never jetted your combo. First, start by tuning your pilot jet fuel screw per this video: howtomotorcyclerepair.com/how-to-4-stroke-mx-fuel-screw-adjustment-yzf-crf-kxf-rmz-fcr/
I have this same carb and I have up graded my 1990 Dr 350 and I want to put this carb on my 350, is there recommended jet size for this conversion?
Thank you man :) you helped me so much :)
Excellent video!
Awesome video man! I am restoring a 02 DRZ 400e with the slant style FCR. Unfortunately this carb does not provide a screw to adust AP timing. However, there is a U shaped piece of metal that can be bent to adjust the AP lever up and down. I watched the video multiple times and adjusted the pump even more but i cant quite get it perfect. How can this be transferred to the slant carb?
I'm not familiar with that carb, however you have the right idea to bend the tab or modify the cam.
Awesome vid! You sure have helped me understand. I seem to be having to much squirt. Was looking at the Boysen Quick Shot 3 accelerator pump cover with adjustable leak valve. Would you recommend? Thanks
First let me ask what year make model?
It's a 2001 wr250f.
@@Doctors101 I would just install a 45 leak and oring. Total cost $10. Also make sure fuel screw and pilot jet are setup and you will have a bike that runs mint and save some money. Usually I install 1 larger size on pilot jet to net me 2.5 out on fuel screw.
Great vid. Having a hard time figuring out a lean condition and decel popping on my crf 450x. Have to turn the fuel screw out more than 2.5 turns to make it run right without popping exaust or glowing header pipe. Pilot jet is a 60, main jet is a 175. Air box has been opened up and has a fmf pipe. Any advice on what to do to tune it so I can run the fuel screw 1.5 to 2 turns out without the exaust decel popping is welcomed.
You need to richen up the pilot jet. However you already are at a 60??? That is pretty big. Check for vacuum leaks and make sure hot start plunger is clean and operational.
Mine 150r keeps dying even after this. Should I upgrade my leak jet?
I tried finding a #78 o-ring and for some reason danco uses weird numbers. For those of you looking a #108 o-ring is the number most manufacturers use it's 1/4 i.d. 3/32 cross section 7/16 o.d. do you know if you can use a #202? Which would be 1/4" I.d. 1/8" cross section 1/2" o.d. if it fits it should last longer?
Hey Matt. How do you reset the tps if you removed it?
Great video!!! 👍
If the accelerator pump isn’t set up right could it cause the bike to hang revs once the throttle is blipped
this helped so much. Thankyou!
Wow, thank you so much!
Excellent vid! Thanks!!
Spiegato molto bene. Grazie
Great video.. and i have a question regarding the tps. People say that disconnecting tps will reduce the throttle response and bike bogs but if i disconnect the tps and still setup the AP like you did will the bike still lack throttle response or there will be no any issues whatsoever with tps disconnected and AP working as it should. Please help me out.
Why disconnect the TPS? That is usually to control ignition curves.
MatthewMCRepair thanks for replying. But the thing is i am installing this carb in a bike that has no tps connection provided and it actually have a stock carb which also doesnot have tps. It uses mikuni tm 34 style carburetor so i am upgrading it to a carb with an accelerator pump in it.
@@achupudasaini860 Gotcha.
VERY INFORMATIVE! MANY THANKS!!!
Good video production.
Hey man, love the videos, you just do an excelente job, I have a little issue with my new FCR33 carb, it idles good and when i accelerate from bottom to top (on neutral) it seems good, but when i go to ride, it stumbles at mid rpms (half throttle), it goes like ta...tatata...tata..tata..., Then I keep accelerating at full throttle and the stumble disappears, and runs ok on top of acceleration. I changed the needles and it keeps stumbling at mid acceleration. It only happens when I go to ride, but not on neutral. Please i'll appreciate your comments.
Same problem if you slowly roll from idle to WOT?
@@HTMR i found that the little squirt is not working properly, it squirts bubles of air and fuel