I started shooting wildlife 2 years ago. In the beginning I was very focused on gear. Then settings, as there is an infinite way to set these up! I chose the R5 and 100-500. It was a stretch for me financially. It’s still the only lens I own and will be for a long time! I realize after 2 years in, once you get a decent set up, your focus changes from getting an in focus shot to creating an image that makes you go “wow”. Who wouldn’t love a 500 Or 600 F4? But really, there is so much wonderful and creative work to be done with much more affordable gear. Now my focus is on understanding bird behavior, wind, light and patience to capture and share those wow moments. For me it’s about being creative with what you have. I know I can grow into the gear for years to come.
Hi Paul, gear does make a difference , the lens is more important than the body. Buy the best glass you can afford! I had done film photography in the late 70's and 80's. now getting back into it buying used pro Canon gear, 5D mark iii, 6D, and a 7D mark ii for wildlife, along with a wide selection of L series canon lenses. My latest purchase was a difficult decision between a $900 Sigma 150-600 contemporary or a used canon 500mm L f4 IS USM in excellent Condition for $3000...I can tell you the canon provides stunning sharpness and is fast! After a few hours I knew it was the right choice! such amazing quality. thank you for such great content! Also knowing how to use the equipment you have and having the time to go out and enjoy taking photos helps.
Hobbyists used to aspire to pro gear with dreams of being able to sell photos and go pro. But not many pros can make a living anymore leaving the advanced amateur to only post on social media, so the question then becomes how much can you afford to spend on your hobby. For many when they can finally afford the big 600mm they are no longer as fit as they used to be and can't or don't want to lug it around.
Great advise and thanks for sharing. Started off with a 12-year old Canon 550D + Sigma 150-600 a year ago, was told by someone "don't waste time, go straight to the top end", ignored him and a year later today I can say "the learning process" on "why you need a better camera & lens" make so much more sense. I'm now equipped with the R6, R5 and R3 complete with the RF150-500 and the RF1200mm and, whilst still learning, expecting to get some up-close-and-personal photos & videos this year. Cheers
I agree with all the below but time and experience are also very important. The videos where Paul shares his knowledge of birds and their habitats is very valuable. The opportunity to get out there when you can is important. I watched a vid of a foreign chap in an exotic location getting great shots , but Pauls vid of being on the wet moors and getting some shots is just as inspirational. I've been fortunate recently in buying some expensive gear but it doesn't do it on it's own
The issue of the top of the line gear that breaks the bank or go reasonable and work your way up has been going on since cameras were invented. The main thing a person wanting to get into photography can do is find and take a good photography class. It doesn't need to be a long drawn out class, just something 5-8 hours long to get you familiar with the camera you have and the basics of photography. I believe I can safely say that 75% of cameras sold never get taken off full automatic simply because the user's haven't taken the time to learn what the camera is capable of and don't know the difference between a f-stop and iso. Great video Paul! Always look forward to you posting!
Great video, Paul, gear definitely matters starting out i'd say, i started in november last year and spent the time from then just familiarising myself and learning everything i can, once you reach a point where you feel comfortable, i would say gear doesn't matter as much.
Wildlife is a genre that really shows up the performance gulf between mirrorless and dslr. As you said, birds in flight has become so much easier, I'm still using dslrs though and not likely to change in the foreseeable future, I like the challenge of getting those in flight shots with a clickety brick! Never having to worry about battery life and being able to switch the camera off until something happens with a quick start up time helps a lot. I did a workshop for a group I volunteer for and had a chance to see how various phones, and cameras like the Sony RX 100 iii performed for wildlife and it's pretty easy to say that they are really challenging for the genre. I think at that end of the spectrum, users would need to get creative with remote triggering and pre focussed set ups. Again that would be a nice challenge but very frustrating if you've had a taste of using a 500mm for example. My 200-500mm is in for repair and I'm having to use an 18-200mm for wildlife just now, which; it has to be said, is almost a complete waste of time. Fast glass is also vital for action shots in low light, unfortunately I have to settle for an f5.6 but trialling DXO Pure Raw 3 just now and noise issues may become a thing of the past. The phrase "game changer" is being used a lot in regard to the software and I'm thinking that the description is wholly accurate.
Great video Paul, it is difficult to know where to start these days . Start basic and work up I would recommend. Macro is a good cheaper starting point bugs and butterflies would be my advice with a macro lens, which doubles as a portrait one too !
Obviously - the more kit the better. Multi bodies, multi lenses and massive computer processors and also a solid travel card and some sherps. 800mm, 600, 500, 400, 200, 85..... robot traps with lidar.
Thanks for the video. I restarted my interest in photography two years ago after using a Nikon D90 back in 2010. As my interest changed to birds the D90 didn’t cut it. With a significant birthday approaching I received a Nikon Z50 because I was familiar with Nikon and the deal came with an FTZ adapter. Sweet. Well I soon realised for birds, and BIF, the Z50 with a Tamron 100-400 just didn’t cut it. I went for the Sony a7iv with the 100-400 GM lens. Twelve months on and still learning a lot but getting there I hope. My recommendation is that if you know the genre you want to shot buy the best you can afford and put in the time to learn how to use it. Equipment is just part of it, but if starting go as far as your budget will let you. Glass may be good but camera capabilities are important. You often see amazing photos of birds taken with old gear, but invariably they are perched in a clear area with a low keeper rate. Stretch as far as you can is my two cents worth.
What was wrong with the Tamron 100 - 400? Surely with the apsc Nikon you have good range at least 600mm plus. I ask because I'm thinking of buying the tamron?
The Tamron is fine, it was more the capabilities of the camera but couldn’t take a tc. Even close to little fairy wrens etc in Australia 600mm was not enough. Don’t laugh but I have since sold my Sony gear because of reach and if using tc’s f stops up to f13. I replaced the Sony with the OM-1 and the OM 100-400 and the OM 300 f4 with 1.4 tc. Great lightweight kit, plenty of reach and great performance and extras.
I once saw a UA-camr do a statistical breakdown of what was a fairly well know photo contest. The age of the majority of the equipment was much older than one would expect. That might support my hypothesis that the best equipment is the equipment that you are most familiar with, not the one with the most whistles and bells
I'd bet that it has more to do with the fact that those who have older equipment are likely much more experienced, since they probably got their gear when it was new and just kept using it for a long time. Those who buy newer gear are likely newer photographers.
Carry less shoor more. Spend less time faffing about the correct lens as any lens choice demands compromise, even the top end Primes or Zoom lenses. Agree, get to know your camera and push it to the limits, understand what and how you want to shoot and clearly understand the focul length limits of your lens. Be creative with what you have, shooting at 600 or 800 all the time to get the total small bird in the frame becomes boring and never test your creativity. If you are too far shoot wide, to close be creative. Just go and shoot untill you find your equipment limiting.
I started shooting wildlife 2 years ago. In the beginning I was very focused on gear. Then settings, as there is an infinite way to set these up! I chose the R5 and 100-500. It was a stretch for me financially. It’s still the only lens I own and will be for a long time! I realize after 2 years in, once you get a decent set up, your focus changes from getting an in focus shot to creating an image that makes you go “wow”. Who wouldn’t love a 500 Or 600 F4? But really, there is so much wonderful and creative work to be done with much more affordable gear. Now my focus is on understanding bird behavior, wind, light and patience to capture and share those wow moments. For me it’s about being creative with what you have. I know I can grow into the gear for years to come.
I love your approach and would echo much of what you have said. The real joy for me is creating images that I visualise.
Hi Paul, gear does make a difference , the lens is more important than the body. Buy the best glass you can afford!
I had done film photography in the late 70's and 80's. now getting back into it buying used pro Canon gear, 5D mark iii, 6D, and a 7D mark ii for wildlife, along with a wide selection of L series canon lenses.
My latest purchase was a difficult decision between a $900 Sigma 150-600 contemporary or a used canon 500mm L f4 IS USM in excellent Condition for $3000...I can tell you the canon provides stunning sharpness and is fast!
After a few hours I knew it was the right choice! such amazing quality. thank you for such great content!
Also knowing how to use the equipment you have and having the time to go out and enjoy taking photos helps.
Hobbyists used to aspire to pro gear with dreams of being able to sell photos and go pro. But not many pros can make a living anymore leaving the advanced amateur to only post on social media, so the question then becomes how much can you afford to spend on your hobby. For many when they can finally afford the big 600mm they are no longer as fit as they used to be and can't or don't want to lug it around.
Great advise and thanks for sharing. Started off with a 12-year old Canon 550D + Sigma 150-600 a year ago, was told by someone "don't waste time, go straight to the top end", ignored him and a year later today I can say "the learning process" on "why you need a better camera & lens" make so much more sense. I'm now equipped with the R6, R5 and R3 complete with the RF150-500 and the RF1200mm and, whilst still learning, expecting to get some up-close-and-personal photos & videos this year. Cheers
I was more than happy with my older Canon crop sensor cameras then moved to full frame, diffence was Night and day, it frankly stunned me.
I agree with all the below but time and experience are also very important. The videos where Paul shares his knowledge of birds and their habitats is very valuable. The opportunity to get out there when you can is important. I watched a vid of a foreign chap in an exotic location getting great shots , but Pauls vid of being on the wet moors and getting some shots is just as inspirational. I've been fortunate recently in buying some expensive gear but it doesn't do it on it's own
I agree with all you say good advice Paul ! If just starting you could buy second hand but a decent lens is always a good purchase 👍
The issue of the top of the line gear that breaks the bank or go reasonable and work your way up has been going on since cameras were invented. The main thing a person wanting to get into photography can do is find and take a good photography class. It doesn't need to be a long drawn out class, just something 5-8 hours long to get you familiar with the camera you have and the basics of photography. I believe I can safely say that 75% of cameras sold never get taken off full automatic simply because the user's haven't taken the time to learn what the camera is capable of and don't know the difference between a f-stop and iso. Great video Paul! Always look forward to you posting!
Great video, Paul, gear definitely matters starting out i'd say, i started in november last year and spent the time from then just familiarising myself and learning everything i can, once you reach a point where you feel comfortable, i would say gear doesn't matter as much.
Thanks, Paul!
Making me think about what is really important!
Best!
Wildlife is a genre that really shows up the performance gulf between mirrorless and dslr. As you said, birds in flight has become so much easier, I'm still using dslrs though and not likely to change in the foreseeable future, I like the challenge of getting those in flight shots with a clickety brick! Never having to worry about battery life and being able to switch the camera off until something happens with a quick start up time helps a lot. I did a workshop for a group I volunteer for and had a chance to see how various phones, and cameras like the Sony RX 100 iii performed for wildlife and it's pretty easy to say that they are really challenging for the genre. I think at that end of the spectrum, users would need to get creative with remote triggering and pre focussed set ups. Again that would be a nice challenge but very frustrating if you've had a taste of using a 500mm for example. My 200-500mm is in for repair and I'm having to use an 18-200mm for wildlife just now, which; it has to be said, is almost a complete waste of time. Fast glass is also vital for action shots in low light, unfortunately I have to settle for an f5.6 but trialling DXO Pure Raw 3 just now and noise issues may become a thing of the past. The phrase "game changer" is being used a lot in regard to the software and I'm thinking that the description is wholly accurate.
Great video Paul, it is difficult to know where to start these days . Start basic and work up I would recommend. Macro is a good cheaper starting point bugs and butterflies would be my advice with a macro lens, which doubles as a portrait one too !
Great video Paul! I have been a subscriber since 2018-19 and your videos really keep me getting better and more innovative. Thank you
Thank you. I appreciate that very much.
Obviously - the more kit the better. Multi bodies, multi lenses and massive computer processors and also a solid travel card and some sherps. 800mm, 600, 500, 400, 200, 85..... robot traps with lidar.
Thanks for the video. I restarted my interest in photography two years ago after using a Nikon D90 back in 2010. As my interest changed to birds the D90 didn’t cut it. With a significant birthday approaching I received a Nikon Z50 because I was familiar with Nikon and the deal came with an FTZ adapter. Sweet. Well I soon realised for birds, and BIF, the Z50 with a Tamron 100-400 just didn’t cut it. I went for the Sony a7iv with the 100-400 GM lens. Twelve months on and still learning a lot but getting there I hope. My recommendation is that if you know the genre you want to shot buy the best you can afford and put in the time to learn how to use it. Equipment is just part of it, but if starting go as far as your budget will let you. Glass may be good but camera capabilities are important. You often see amazing photos of birds taken with old gear, but invariably they are perched in a clear area with a low keeper rate. Stretch as far as you can is my two cents worth.
What was wrong with the Tamron 100 - 400? Surely with the apsc Nikon you have good range at least 600mm plus. I ask because I'm thinking of buying the tamron?
The Tamron is fine, it was more the capabilities of the camera but couldn’t take a tc. Even close to little fairy wrens etc in Australia 600mm was not enough. Don’t laugh but I have since sold my Sony gear because of reach and if using tc’s f stops up to f13. I replaced the Sony with the OM-1 and the OM 100-400 and the OM 300 f4 with 1.4 tc. Great lightweight kit, plenty of reach and great performance and extras.
I once saw a UA-camr do a statistical breakdown of what was a fairly well know photo contest. The age of the majority of the equipment was much older than one would expect. That might support my hypothesis that the best equipment is the equipment that you are most familiar with, not the one with the most whistles and bells
I'd bet that it has more to do with the fact that those who have older equipment are likely much more experienced, since they probably got their gear when it was new and just kept using it for a long time. Those who buy newer gear are likely newer photographers.
@@sirpdubs Good point. A well known camera becomes an extension of ones eye. Or so I'm told :))
As usual another great video Paul, where did you buy the 90 degree view finder please.
I think this was from Wex. It specifically fits the 1DX
Why can't a lens with this length beat the Nikon P1000 3000mm focal length?
🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩💞
buy a budget camera and a top lens.
I tend to agree with this approach.
Definitely if just starting.
Well my OP is a person has to learn basics of Wildlife Photography first - otherwise regardless of the gear you use it's useless
Carry less shoor more. Spend less time faffing about the correct lens as any lens choice demands compromise, even the top end Primes or Zoom lenses. Agree, get to know your camera and push it to the limits, understand what and how you want to shoot and clearly understand the focul length limits of your lens. Be creative with what you have, shooting at 600 or 800 all the time to get the total small bird in the frame becomes boring and never test your creativity. If you are too far shoot wide, to close be creative. Just go and shoot untill you find your equipment limiting.