And unless you live Somewhere it IS 70°. all year round. And you Drive the motocycle at a moderate Pace. If manual recommend 10w40 and you go on a track day with 95°.You better not put 10w40 minéral 😂
Really not sure why anybody would purchase anything other than synthetic oil these days, unless in an older vehicle with high oil capacity and budget is a SERIOUS concern.
Short answer, anything from Royal Purple, Redline or Amsoil with the words engine oil on the label. I picked up almost 5 HP on a motorcycle dyno by doing nothing but changing my engine oil from OEM to Royal Purple 10-40. Numbers don't lie, but manufactures do! Cheers 🍻
I've been using Rotella T6 which is a different grade than my owners manual recommends (5w40 vs 10w40) AND it's a car oil, and my bike still runs fine after over 50,000 miles.
Its not a car oil. Its a heavy duty diesel oil without the friction modifiers that are typical for car oils. That's why it's suitable for wet clutches in motorcycles. It's also JASO MA certified so it can be officially used in motorcycle engines. 5W vs 10W is only important for very cold starts. The more important number is 40 once the oil is at operating temperature. That covers an ambient temperature range of 0-100 F. Minor variations in the numbers only affect the fringes of this range. I'm sure you know that, this is just for the record if anyone thinks of using regular car oil.
T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs and that is all most bikes call for. Keep using it and keep saving money. I use either T4 or T6 15w40 in my Kawasaki and all is good.
I have been owning, riding and maintaining bikes for 52 years and counting - LOTS of them. A long time ago, someone I trust completely told me that, though expensive oils probably do provide some slight advantages, even the least expensive full synthetic oils were several times better than even the most expensive conventional ones. Ever since, I have used the least expensive, full synthetic oils I can find that are compatible with the recommendations in my bike's owner's manuals, and I haven't had a single issue. In short, I live by the philosophy that suggests, at least for average, non-competitive motorcyclists, it is far more important to change the oil according to the schedule in the manual than it is to stress over any particular brand of oil. This is all my personal opinion of course, but I have been riding for a very long time, and do have an excellent record on the matter. 😊
Another-consideration is that thick-oil flows-slower and is slower to remove-heat from metal-surfaces . Heat kills engines along-with 'Starts' (when the most-wear occurs , so Don't rev it) . Thicker-oil arguably breaks-down-faster also , as it heats-more due to its slow-flow-rate . Circle-track racing in The States , shows V8-engines run on high-quality 5-30 , last for more 'Seasons' before requiring re-building , than those run-on heavier-weight-oils . Mineral-oil is pretty-much dead , a little-over 1000miles in a motor-cycle , synthetic lasts much-longer due to its heat-resistant-properties . Many motorcycle-racers will change the oil after every Meeting . At the end of Summer , I drain my bike, fill with mineral-oil and drain/replace after one-ride , the-following-Season, otherwise my first oil-change is contaminated with whatever acidic-residue and other-contaminants , laying on/in any cavity or surface (it's cheap and gives me peace-of-mind) . I've owned 52 m/cycles over many-thousands of miles and only one failed-mechanically .So anyone should be able to assess their bikes oil-needs , if they understand the conditions involved . Dave NZ
The first thing you said is referred to the owners manual in my particular case the owners manual was printed over 50 years ago. Oil has changed a little bit to say the least. which is why it brought me to not understand why synthetic motor oil wouldn’t be advantageous, since it is so functional in so many other machines .
I have owned Japanese bikes for 30 years. I always used only regular oil between 10-30 to 40. Simple oil !!!!! Never ever even one engine issue and cooling fans barley even came on even in hot days. As long as you change the oil by the book and use what they recommend, you are so good to go. Go by the book. Read your manual few times before even riding. NOOOOO BRAINERRRRRRRR !!!!!
@WJ Best thing to do and simple enough, look in the bike's manual for recommendation. If you don't have a booklet, go online, plenty of information for all bikes, all years. It's very important to use the grade needed for your bike.
@WJ you should be fine with 10-40. Here in the USA, some use 10-30 or 40. I do use only HONDA bike oil. Nothing else. I do not use synthetic oil on my Goldwing. Not specified in the book.
Rotella is not "car oil". Make sure you check for the JASO MA mark, as not EVERY type of Rotella has it. The easy way: see step one of video. Don't use "car oil" (has friction modifiers) in your bike that uses a single supply for engine and transmission lubrication.
Hello I have a 1950 F L Panhead have used Harley Davidson oil gave me low oil pressure so I went to the airport purchased 5 gallons of airplane 60 weight oil filled up my oil bag and transmission and started it up what a difference 35 pounds of pressure in my Panhead didn’t overheat ran great recommended to all my scooter friends which they used so this is what I’m saying to you about different oils for your scooters. H D oil sucks! DAGO Ca
A good point to address is what oil to use in a vintage 4 stroke motorcycles, from 70's for example. And also 4 cylinders or 2 cylinders or 2 stroke, etc..
Funny, I have a 1974 Honda CB750 that specs 10w30 with zero mention of MC specific. Probably cause energy conserving blends didn't exist back then. It even calls for 10w30 engine oil in the forks! It still runs well today in 2022 and probably has never had motorcycle specific oil in it. I have been using Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella 15w40 in it for many many years .
It's all about the certifications the oil meets. It says so right in my manual (Z900RS): "Recommended Engine Oil: Kawasaki ... or other 4-stroke oils with API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rating."
Anybody here running Shell Rotella T4 or T6? They are both JASO MA/MA2 qualified. Way cheaper and some people swear by it. Just bought a brand new suzuki dr650 and rotella has slightly higher ZDDP which is good for breaking in and protecting engines.
idk I'm poor so I've been running car oil. of course, it wasn't without issues, car oil comes with a lot of friction modifiers so it is easier on metal components but also makes the clutch slip. so I put washers under the clutch springs and got the function back. seems to work fine. the engine is not blown after 58,000 miles. and I'm on the same OEM clutch pack from 1999. and well I'm in a better place finally now but I don't think I'm going to switch back. I think the reason why most bikes have serious engine problems after 40k miles is due to motorcycle oil just being harder on components. I'm sure your specific bike is fine but that's just my theory. use whatever oil you think is best.
I love that revzilla is making these videos!! They have great videos, great quality, and excellent information. Perfect for those of us who are new to motorcycles and learning how to work on them.
Back in the saddle after 30 years of not riding. I have around 500 miles worth of saddle time under me since I bought he new bike, and I am getting comfortable again. But I want to go to Sturgis with fresh oil, so now I am doing my first oil change on a bike in 30 years. U have forgotten a LOT. I just wanted to put synthetic motorcycle and a wix filter in it. But it seems that none of my local parts stores want to make it that easy. If I want full synthetic, my choice is to order online and wait...or buy full synthetic "racing" oil from he local parts store. WTF does "racing" oil mean? I mean, I have a cruiser. There aren't too many races I would not lose if I tried...haha...but what is different about "racing" oil, and would it be bad for my regular bike? I bought the semi synthetic because it was available, but if I run into this again next time, is there any reason not to use this Mobil 1 "racing" oil in my Boulevard?
Air-cooled Porsche / VW guys discovered, years ago, that synthetic oil causes their engines to run hotter than conventional oil. I asked a petroleum engineer at my University why, and the explanation made perfect sense. Synthetic oils are designed and engineered to RESIST heat, not to absorb it. Conventional oil works better as a coolant because it absorbs the heat and carries it away, rather than resisting it and leaving it. I've tested this on my oil-head BMW, and it's 100% true. I change my oil once a season, I run conventional oil, and my bike never overheats, even in city traffic. I had the engine in a Harley Dyna seize up on me while I was riding it. When the dealership tore it down, their explanation was that the H-D brand synthetic oil, that I had recently switched to, caused the air-cooled engine to overheat and the rings welded to the cylinders. Good times.
Guess you never tried polyol ester based oils. ....at least 200 degrees more temp resistant and is polar molecularly...is attracted to heat....How much Grp 3 does HD use...? That is just more refined petroleum...most petroleum falls apart around 350 degrees...and it migrates away from heat...PAO's react the same way...POE 2 to 1.
If it gets thinner when it's hot wouldn't it be called 50w20 or 40w10 if hi number is thick and low numbers are thin and cold is thick and hot is thin so the low numbers must be the thickest it ever gets and the high numbers are the thinnest so 90 wt must be REALLY thin like water.
I read the Harley Davidson owners manual it said if I couldn’t find Harley Davidson brand oil to use oil that would be suitable for a diesel pick up high detergent is that what you’re referring to
please give an explaination here i have a 12 years old scooter, ran almost 43000 km, full servicing was done in sep13 {41602 odo indicated} and today its 20th oct {42909 odo indicated}. It was a motul scooter electra LE engine oil, left about 100-150 ml out of 800ml. Why my scooter drinking this much engine oil. Like literally ran around 1000+km and the engine oil was also a semi synthetic. but there is no {black or white} smoke coming out of the silencer, also behaving completely O.K with good milage, good acceleration. what is happening ??
Hi.. I've just had my annual service carried out on my 2021 suzuki hayabusa at my local suzuki dealer I've just noticed they used semi synthetic engine oil??? Should i be worried? Many thanks Lee Great work by the way!!!
Hi. I bought a brand new motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, that the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k.
Regular oil should never be used in a bike you intend to keep running......bike engines are the hardest on oil due to the many ways they destroy the oil physically in addition to friction and fuel contamination.
As far as I know this was developed to get a few percentage points more power on the race track where engines run at maximum RPMs with high engine temperatures for extended periods of time, but also have a very short oil change interval (a few hundred miles). For a regular rider this is not a suitable oil for those reasons. And since these oils are very expensive, I suspect the buyers will be tempted to extend the oil change interval, which is exactly the opposite they should do. Get the cheapest oil that has the specification your manual requires (usually JASO MA), that's it. Fully synthetic if you like to shift smoother and if you don't ride much (doesn't degrade over time as quickly as conventional, so yearly oil change is unnecessary, and mile range can 20-30% extended). However, oil consumption might be a bit higher with a fully synthetic oil if your engine is used to conventional oil, due to its molecules being all uniform and able to enter the combustion chamber easier than the "dirtier" conventional oil.
I'm planning on using 20-50 Redline on my next oil change in my Star Venture. I live in So. Cal. so we don't have extreme temperature swings, either way, but the Venture is a bike that runs a little warmer than other V-twins I've owned.
I too have an RSV and I typically use Yamalube 20/50. A Yamaha mechanic warned me again synthetic oils since our bike was made with regular oil in mind. He claimed that synthetic oil tends to not help our clutches work optimally. You have a different take on this. I ask bc I really don't know, it just sounds logical.
@@jesusacovarrubias1390: I'm beginning to understand why people keep making oil videos, because the world still does not understand. Don't worry about a clutch that costs nickels to replace, rather focus on the hard parts that cost hundreds plus and plural!!! Any and every engine oil will work with your wet clutch, but some engine oils are definitely better that others for the engine/transmission itself. I can only tell you from my personal experience, but Royal Purple 10-40 gained me almost 5 HP over the OEM oil on a motorcycle dyno. Clutch is fine feeling as good as ever, but the transmission is so much smoother shifting! The dyno numbers don't lie, but manufactures do..... To pick up almost 5 HP, how much friction had to be eliminated to net gain that result? The only change was OEM oil to Royal Purple 10-40. Cheers 🍻
regarding the numbers and this should have been talked about the first number is the Winter grading. so a 0W will remain thin and usable at -35 degrees a 5W -30 10W -25 15W -20 degrees that is the temperature they will remain a liquid and can be pumped around an engine then the 2nd number is the oils viscosity at operating temperature. usually tested at 100 degree celsius so a -W/50 will have a certain thickness/thinness (viscosity) at 100degrees. quite a horrible video in terms of information
Because dyno charts can prove the difference immediately and bearing wear will prove it over time. Small engine parts are expensive, but small or any size "engine oil" is cheap by comparison, so why not get the best of the best? They are all good enough, true! But some are definitely better than others. Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning to imply that the Rotella oil is somehow inferior to Kawasaki brand oil where wear is concerned is nuts. There are MANY engines on the highways around the world with well over 1 million miles on them running that oil. Like I said, it carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification. As far as it primarily being a diesel engine oil goes, I think you will find very little if any difference in formulations between MC and diesel oils. Companies like Harley Davidson actually specifies to use a good diesel engine oil when their proprietary blended oil is unavailable. Yes I know this isn't an HD forum.
Id like to see you guys do a detail breakdown on 300v.. seems to be a ton of mis information on the net as to street vs track only use.. be nice to see someone give some real clarification on this for once. Doesnt have to to be the bible on it. But know if its truly safe or worth using for street use, would be nice!
Nope. Sorry, I'm sure the presenter is a very nice guy, but he represents a company that does business with the industry, and is therefore limited in how completely open he can be. I'm talking about the issue of Rotella T6 (which is mentioned previously in this thread). A fully synthetic oil, with the JASO MA spec (Japanese organization equivalent to our SAE, MA means ok for wet clutches in that it lacks the friction modifiers included in most modern car oils in order to increase gas mileage). The problem for the motorcycle specialty oil industry is that Rotella is available at Walmart for 20 something $/gallon while specialty motorcycle oils can be $13+/quart, and sometimes not even fully synthetic. Reminds me of the situation many years ago when Dexter Ford (a long time contributor to Motorcyclist Magazine) did a massive and brilliant helmet test published in the New York Times , wherein he found that the safest helmet was a relatively cheap polycarbonate one (the Z1). He further determined that the reason for this is that the Snell Foundation had established test pass certification criteria that were significantly elevated over the real world needs, which resulted in the "best" (more expensive) helmets being overly heavy and stiff (meaning they passed unnecessarily high forces to the helmet wearer's brain during most real world crash events). The result of this brilliant publishing effort? The helmet manufacturer advertisers were outraged and Motorcyclist Magazine published a damage control apology letter and Dexter was fired. However, though the Snell Foundation was in full denial mode, they did in fact lower their requirements in subsequent certification issuances (so lives have been saved). The moral: a company dependent upon supplier and advertiser good will may be unable to publish "the whole truth, and nothing but the truth". This is not them being evil, it's just the way of the world. [and why one should be skeptical about everything, and always try to figure out any underlying factors or constraints relative to ideas presented as "facts"]. YMMV
I have alot of trouble finding 20w40 for my fj1200 so I settle (for now) for 10w40 because I can find it and new bikes with the same engine recommend it for the broadest range of temperatures
I mean the only difference would be that the oil is a little thinner when cold which only affects it in really cold temperatures and in a good way, its easier to start. Its the same once the bike is at operating temperatures.
Just change it, when oil becomes contaminated ( usually around 2,000 to 4,000 miles) time to change it. This is not set in stone, use your own discretion.
Switching to synthetic from conventional can cause leaks in older engines. If the engine can use conventional, then not really any problems. The extra cost of a DIY oil change with synthetic is only about a $3 difference.
TBH as far as I understand it has to do with your own personal engine if it is super high mileage just keep doing what was already done with. The problem usually arises when you go from conventional to synthetic on a higher mile engine. the reason most people experience a leak in this situation usually can be attributed to the detergents present in oil, an older and higher mileage engine has certain tolerances and build up that is fine but when you put an oil with more detergent and it cleans the build up out you can see the engine leak oil now that the buildup isn't plugging that gap. TL;DR best to keep using the same oil you always are using to keep everything happy, no need to change unless you notice a problem in your bike
@@barrybambmessagedeletedbyy7467 thanks. I have a cb300f. I got it brand new. And have been doing only full synthetic even though it doesn’t specify. It’s a single and ride the hell out of it so I figured that would be best. I change the oil and filter myself every 3-4000 miles. So far so good. Just wanted to make sure I’m not hurting anything
Way too many cooks in the kitchen. It was obvious the friction between the media staff in the last 2 podcasts, made it kind of hard to listen to, with people haveing snarky, between the lines arguments.
@@Gsxr2001boy per Rekluse, "In the past, Rekluse recommended multiple different oils to their customers. At one time they suggested using Delo 400, and more recently, Rotella. However, oil formulations have changed over the years. Based on customer and racing feedback on the performance of certain products, Rekluse shifted its guidance on oil. Austin Paden shared, “a lot of people don’t realize that diesel engine oils changed their formulas in recent years due to evolving emissions standards. The recent additives to the oil haven’t been good for the clutch and have generally caused in increase in clutch slippage.”
I mean all cars have multiple oils, scooters have 2 oils, using 3 for different applications in a motorcycle doesn't sound that dramatic, my guess is that you don't need to change all 3 at the same time anyways.
i'm am compleally confused as to which is the best engine oil to put in my motorcycle engine for the 2021 Kawasaki W800B variant c1 version B Model number EJ800 CKF CAFE as i didnt get a owners manual booklet all i know is its supposed to be 10W/40 which just isnt enough info has a wet clutch and air cooled etc if you could find out that info for me i would be eternally greatfull and so would my bike as wish to ride and enjoy it for many years to come. I will also forgive you for thinking im a stupid lazy twat and shouldnt even be riding on the roads if i cant even work that out for myself these days but times have definatily change and become so god dam complicated.
Questions? Give our gear experts a call at 877.792.9455, or email/chat here: rvz.la/31xnH9M
What about "rotella T4" that's "JASO MA" approved?
KLR owners sweat profusely at "The best oil is the one the manufacturer recommends."
How to choose motor oil. See what the manufacture recommends. Make sure you get the proper weight. Go to the store and buy it.
Unless you live in extremes, like Africa or super north countries
And unless you live Somewhere it IS 70°. all year round. And you Drive the motocycle at a moderate Pace.
If manual recommend 10w40 and you go on a track day with 95°.You better not put 10w40 minéral 😂
Wow, they really threw you to the wolves with this assignment, Joe.
LOL, exactly my thoughts, not even seen the video yet 😂 You're stepping onto thin ice sir!
It's not over yet until he tells us EXACTLY which brand of oil is best. We can't have a proper flamewar without it.
This only needs to be a 5 second video....0:21 to 0:26. That's all that's needed. And make sure you change it often!
Once every year or every 8000-10.000km
@@philippwalder4328
If you go over 5000 km or 3000 miles between oil changes you will mess up your engine real bad in the the long run.
Really not sure why anybody would purchase anything other than synthetic oil these days, unless in an older vehicle with high oil capacity and budget is a SERIOUS concern.
Short answer, anything from Royal Purple, Redline or Amsoil with the words engine oil on the label. I picked up almost 5 HP on a motorcycle dyno by doing nothing but changing my engine oil from OEM to Royal Purple 10-40. Numbers don't lie, but manufactures do! Cheers 🍻
I've been using Rotella T6 which is a different grade than my owners manual recommends (5w40 vs 10w40) AND it's a car oil, and my bike still runs fine after over 50,000 miles.
Its not a car oil. Its a heavy duty diesel oil without the friction modifiers that are typical for car oils. That's why it's suitable for wet clutches in motorcycles. It's also JASO MA certified so it can be officially used in motorcycle engines.
5W vs 10W is only important for very cold starts. The more important number is 40 once the oil is at operating temperature. That covers an ambient temperature range of 0-100 F. Minor variations in the numbers only affect the fringes of this range.
I'm sure you know that, this is just for the record if anyone thinks of using regular car oil.
T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs and that is all most bikes call for. Keep using it and keep saving money. I use either T4 or T6 15w40 in my Kawasaki and all is good.
The 5wt part is only 5 wt when cold anyway. Actually, it will reach the top end camshaft journals sooner than 10 wt so I see zero harm in T6
@@sv650nyc7 The first no. is important if you Don't change your oil for a long-time as it drops-back in viscosity to the first no .
I have been owning, riding and maintaining bikes for 52 years and counting - LOTS of them. A long time ago, someone I trust completely told me that, though expensive oils probably do provide some slight advantages, even the least expensive full synthetic oils were several times better than even the most expensive conventional ones. Ever since, I have used the least expensive, full synthetic oils I can find that are compatible with the recommendations in my bike's owner's manuals, and I haven't had a single issue. In short, I live by the philosophy that suggests, at least for average, non-competitive motorcyclists, it is far more important to change the oil according to the schedule in the manual than it is to stress over any particular brand of oil.
This is all my personal opinion of course, but I have been riding for a very long time, and do have an excellent record on the matter. 😊
But which one tastes best?
Marvel Mystery Oil
For Harley owners you don't have to change your oil most Harleys do that on their own by leaking it all over the ground
Another-consideration is that thick-oil flows-slower and is slower to remove-heat from metal-surfaces . Heat kills engines along-with 'Starts' (when the most-wear occurs , so Don't rev it) . Thicker-oil arguably breaks-down-faster also , as it heats-more due to its slow-flow-rate . Circle-track racing in The States , shows V8-engines run on high-quality 5-30 , last for more 'Seasons' before requiring re-building , than those run-on heavier-weight-oils . Mineral-oil is pretty-much dead , a little-over 1000miles in a motor-cycle , synthetic lasts much-longer due to its heat-resistant-properties . Many motorcycle-racers will change the oil after every Meeting . At the end of Summer , I drain my bike, fill with mineral-oil and drain/replace after one-ride , the-following-Season, otherwise my first oil-change is contaminated with whatever acidic-residue and other-contaminants , laying on/in any cavity or surface (it's cheap and gives me peace-of-mind) . I've owned 52 m/cycles over many-thousands of miles and only one failed-mechanically .So anyone should be able to assess their bikes oil-needs , if they understand the conditions involved . Dave NZ
I really hope to see this guy more frequently in upcoming highside-lowside episodes!
The first thing you said is referred to the owners manual in my particular case the owners manual was printed over 50 years ago. Oil has changed a little bit to say the least. which is why it brought me to not understand why synthetic motor oil wouldn’t be advantageous, since it is so functional in so many other machines .
I have owned Japanese bikes for 30 years. I always used only regular oil between 10-30 to 40. Simple oil !!!!! Never ever even one engine issue and cooling fans barley even came on even in hot days. As long as you change the oil by the book and use what they recommend, you are so good to go. Go by the book. Read your manual few times before even riding. NOOOOO BRAINERRRRRRRR !!!!!
@WJ I am in the Northeast and I use 10-30 Honda GN4 regular bike oil. I do not ride during winter months.
@WJ Best thing to do and simple enough, look in the bike's manual for recommendation. If you don't have a booklet, go online, plenty of information for all bikes, all years. It's very important to use the grade needed for your bike.
@WJ you should be fine with 10-40. Here in the USA, some use 10-30 or 40. I do use only HONDA bike oil. Nothing else. I do not use synthetic oil on my Goldwing. Not specified in the book.
I like the BSA shirt. I’ve got three spitfire 650’s that I hope to get running again someday.
Rotella is not "car oil". Make sure you check for the JASO MA mark, as not EVERY type of Rotella has it. The easy way: see step one of video. Don't use "car oil" (has friction modifiers) in your bike that uses a single supply for engine and transmission lubrication.
Hello I have a 1950 F L Panhead have used Harley Davidson oil gave me low oil pressure so I went to the airport purchased 5 gallons of airplane 60 weight oil filled up my oil bag and transmission and started it up what a difference 35 pounds of pressure in my Panhead didn’t overheat ran great recommended to all my scooter friends which they used so this is what I’m saying to you about different oils for your scooters. H D oil sucks! DAGO Ca
A good point to address is what oil to use in a vintage 4 stroke motorcycles, from 70's for example. And also 4 cylinders or 2 cylinders or 2 stroke, etc..
Funny, I have a 1974 Honda CB750 that specs 10w30 with zero mention of MC specific. Probably cause energy conserving blends didn't exist back then. It even calls for 10w30 engine oil in the forks! It still runs well today in 2022 and probably has never had motorcycle specific oil in it. I have been using Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella 15w40 in it for many many years .
It's all about the certifications the oil meets. It says so right in my manual (Z900RS): "Recommended Engine Oil: Kawasaki ... or other 4-stroke oils with API SG, SH,
SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rating."
I just purchased a 1977 triumph Bonneville I'm new to the British bike world so what's the best old for the engine and clutch
Anybody here running Shell Rotella T4 or T6? They are both JASO MA/MA2 qualified. Way cheaper and some people swear by it. Just bought a brand new suzuki dr650 and rotella has slightly higher ZDDP which is good for breaking in and protecting engines.
Go with what the manufacturer recommends based on ambient temperature
I guess question one and it's answer wraps up all the existing videos about choosing engine oil for your vehicle 😁😁
idk I'm poor so I've been running car oil.
of course, it wasn't without issues, car oil comes with a lot of friction modifiers so it is easier on metal components but also makes the clutch slip. so I put washers under the clutch springs and got the function back.
seems to work fine. the engine is not blown after 58,000 miles. and I'm on the same OEM clutch pack from 1999. and well I'm in a better place finally now but I don't think I'm going to switch back.
I think the reason why most bikes have serious engine problems after 40k miles is due to motorcycle oil just being harder on components. I'm sure your specific bike is fine but that's just my theory. use whatever oil you think is best.
Even ducati with their dry clutches use ma2 rating motorcycle oil.
I run olive oil in my Rmz250
I love that revzilla is making these videos!! They have great videos, great quality, and excellent information. Perfect for those of us who are new to motorcycles and learning how to work on them.
Check out sportbike track gear, he does amazing how to videos as well. More in depth as well.
Back in the saddle after 30 years of not riding. I have around 500 miles worth of saddle time under me since I bought he new bike, and I am getting comfortable again. But I want to go to Sturgis with fresh oil, so now I am doing my first oil change on a bike in 30 years. U have forgotten a LOT.
I just wanted to put synthetic motorcycle and a wix filter in it. But it seems that none of my local parts stores want to make it that easy. If I want full synthetic, my choice is to order online and wait...or buy full synthetic "racing" oil from he local parts store. WTF does "racing" oil mean? I mean, I have a cruiser. There aren't too many races I would not lose if I tried...haha...but what is different about "racing" oil, and would it be bad for my regular bike?
I bought the semi synthetic because it was available, but if I run into this again next time, is there any reason not to use this Mobil 1 "racing" oil in my Boulevard?
Rotella T6 for lyfe yo
Agreed. Available everywhere, Meets JASO MA2. Done. Or T4 or T5 whatever, all are good and cheap.
@@John_Ridley I've seen bikes like mine (Vstrom run 200,000 on this oil). It's legit lol
Only if you have KLR :)
Air-cooled Porsche / VW guys discovered, years ago, that synthetic oil causes their engines to run hotter than conventional oil. I asked a petroleum engineer at my University why, and the explanation made perfect sense. Synthetic oils are designed and engineered to RESIST heat, not to absorb it. Conventional oil works better as a coolant because it absorbs the heat and carries it away, rather than resisting it and leaving it. I've tested this on my oil-head BMW, and it's 100% true. I change my oil once a season, I run conventional oil, and my bike never overheats, even in city traffic. I had the engine in a Harley Dyna seize up on me while I was riding it. When the dealership tore it down, their explanation was that the H-D brand synthetic oil, that I had recently switched to, caused the air-cooled engine to overheat and the rings welded to the cylinders. Good times.
Guess you never tried polyol ester based oils. ....at least 200 degrees more temp resistant and is polar molecularly...is attracted to heat....How much Grp 3 does HD use...? That is just more refined petroleum...most petroleum falls apart around 350 degrees...and it migrates away from heat...PAO's react the same way...POE 2 to 1.
In brazil i use mobil 10w30 or other brand with this specification.
If it gets thinner when it's hot wouldn't it be called 50w20 or 40w10 if hi number is thick and low numbers are thin and cold is thick and hot is thin so the low numbers must be the thickest it ever gets and the high numbers are the thinnest so 90 wt must be REALLY thin like water.
Or maybe it gets thicker when hot and thus the higher numbers.
I read the Harley Davidson owners manual it said if I couldn’t find Harley Davidson brand oil to use oil that would be suitable for a diesel pick up high detergent is that what you’re referring to
Bel-ray conventional rates btr by European standards then most synthetics. So syn blend is my choice, the engine luvs it...
please give an explaination here
i have a 12 years old scooter, ran almost 43000 km, full servicing was done in sep13 {41602 odo indicated} and today its 20th oct {42909 odo indicated}. It was a motul scooter electra LE engine oil, left about 100-150 ml out of 800ml. Why my scooter drinking this much engine oil. Like literally ran around 1000+km and the engine oil was also a semi synthetic. but there is no {black or white} smoke coming out of the silencer, also behaving completely O.K with good milage, good acceleration. what is happening ??
T4 or T6
With an air cooled engine, such as the little benelli tnt135, what would be your reccomendation for the absolute best?
U could use piss instead of oil in that lawnmower and it wouldn't care.
Hi.. I've just had my annual service carried out on my 2021 suzuki hayabusa at my local suzuki dealer
I've just noticed they used semi synthetic engine oil??? Should i be worried? Many thanks
Lee
Great work by the way!!!
Hi. I bought a brand new motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, that the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k.
Clean oil and the correct grade.
I use Bel-ray or maxima v-twin 20w50 mainly...
I only Follow manufacturers Manual recommended grade And Choose... Liqui Moly, Castrol, Motul...,.....
FUSCH and Motul, one of the best brands.
T6 or T4, for my car, 79CX500, RSVR1000R and dirt bikes
Regular oil should never be used in a bike you intend to keep running......bike engines are the hardest on oil due to the many ways they destroy the oil physically in addition to friction and fuel contamination.
What about ester?? And is it true some brands use words like “ performance blend” even though it is actually a normal engine oil?? Thanks
As far as I know this was developed to get a few percentage points more power on the race track where engines run at maximum RPMs with high engine temperatures for extended periods of time, but also have a very short oil change interval (a few hundred miles). For a regular rider this is not a suitable oil for those reasons. And since these oils are very expensive, I suspect the buyers will be tempted to extend the oil change interval, which is exactly the opposite they should do.
Get the cheapest oil that has the specification your manual requires (usually JASO MA), that's it. Fully synthetic if you like to shift smoother and if you don't ride much (doesn't degrade over time as quickly as conventional, so yearly oil change is unnecessary, and mile range can 20-30% extended). However, oil consumption might be a bit higher with a fully synthetic oil if your engine is used to conventional oil, due to its molecules being all uniform and able to enter the combustion chamber easier than the "dirtier" conventional oil.
I'm planning on using 20-50 Redline on my next oil change in my Star Venture. I live in So. Cal. so we don't have extreme temperature swings, either way, but the Venture is a bike that runs a little warmer than other V-twins I've owned.
I too have an RSV and I typically use Yamalube 20/50. A Yamaha mechanic warned me again synthetic oils since our bike was made with regular oil in mind. He claimed that synthetic oil tends to not help our clutches work optimally. You have a different take on this. I ask bc I really don't know, it just sounds logical.
@@jesusacovarrubias1390:
I'm beginning to understand why people keep making oil videos, because the world still does not understand. Don't worry about a clutch that costs nickels to replace, rather focus on the hard parts that cost hundreds plus and plural!!! Any and every engine oil will work with your wet clutch, but some engine oils are definitely better that others for the engine/transmission itself. I can only tell you from my personal experience, but Royal Purple 10-40 gained me almost 5 HP over the OEM oil on a motorcycle dyno. Clutch is fine feeling as good as ever, but the transmission is so much smoother shifting! The dyno numbers don't lie, but manufactures do..... To pick up almost 5 HP, how much friction had to be eliminated to net gain that result? The only change was OEM oil to Royal Purple 10-40. Cheers 🍻
I own yamaha mt07 and manual recommend 10w40 but I accidentally put motul 7100 5w40 is it issue and should I replace that oil? Thanks
What oil should I use in a 1982 Honda cb 650 ? No owner manual .
regarding the numbers
and this should have been talked about
the first number is the Winter grading.
so a 0W will remain thin and usable at -35 degrees a 5W -30 10W -25 15W -20 degrees that is the temperature they will remain a liquid and can be pumped around an engine
then the 2nd number is the oils viscosity at operating temperature. usually tested at 100 degree celsius
so a -W/50 will have a certain thickness/thinness (viscosity) at 100degrees.
quite a horrible video in terms of information
I use vtwin mineral works excellent
Mobil One Racing 4t 10w 40 full synthetic
Go with Castrol or Lucas oil
Wow harleys are annoying to change oil in to?
Nah, they're easy. My Yamaha was more of a pain than my HD.
What's your preference, chainsaw bar oil or gear oil for the chain?
Chain lube
Chainsaw bar oil to be sure, but either does the trick
Revzilla 'shop by vehicle' says there are ZERO oils for my bike. That mean I'm good to run it without oil? (Man, am I'm gonna save me some pennies.)
My scout bobber has 10w60 ipone in it. Can i add 10w60 from a different brand?
Why is 2stroke/4stroke abbreviated to 2t/4t
Rotella T4 or T6 at walmart. Inexpensive and meets JASO MA/MA2. Why pay more???
Because dyno charts can prove the difference immediately and bearing wear will prove it over time. Small engine parts are expensive, but small or any size "engine oil" is cheap by comparison, so why not get the best of the best? They are all good enough, true! But some are definitely better than others. Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning to imply that the Rotella oil is somehow inferior to Kawasaki brand oil where wear is concerned is nuts. There are MANY engines on the highways around the world with well over 1 million miles on them running that oil. Like I said, it carries the JASO MA/MA2 certification. As far as it primarily being a diesel engine oil goes, I think you will find very little if any difference in formulations between MC and diesel oils. Companies like Harley Davidson actually specifies to use a good diesel engine oil when their proprietary blended oil is unavailable. Yes I know this isn't an HD forum.
Joe Z is Zilla’s best spokesperson.
Id like to see you guys do a detail breakdown on 300v.. seems to be a ton of mis information on the net as to street vs track only use.. be nice to see someone give some real clarification on this for once. Doesnt have to to be the bible on it. But know if its truly safe or worth using for street use, would be nice!
Very nice sir. God bless....👍🏍️😊
I always use full synthetic, although my motorcycle only 150cc and i ride casually
Group 3 or group 4?
Throwing your money away, then.
Congrats for your chanel! You use teleprompter on your videos?
Nope. Sorry, I'm sure the presenter is a very nice guy, but he represents a company that does business with the industry, and is therefore limited in how completely open he can be. I'm talking about the issue of Rotella T6 (which is mentioned previously in this thread). A fully synthetic oil, with the JASO MA spec (Japanese organization equivalent to our SAE, MA means ok for wet clutches in that it lacks the friction modifiers included in most modern car oils in order to increase gas mileage). The problem for the motorcycle specialty oil industry is that Rotella is available at Walmart for 20 something $/gallon while specialty motorcycle oils can be $13+/quart, and sometimes not even fully synthetic.
Reminds me of the situation many years ago when Dexter Ford (a long time contributor to Motorcyclist Magazine) did a massive and brilliant helmet test published in the New York Times , wherein he found that the safest helmet was a relatively cheap polycarbonate one (the Z1). He further determined that the reason for this is that the Snell Foundation had established test pass certification criteria that were significantly elevated over the real world needs, which resulted in the "best" (more expensive) helmets being overly heavy and stiff (meaning they passed unnecessarily high forces to the helmet wearer's brain during most real world crash events). The result of this brilliant publishing effort? The helmet manufacturer advertisers were outraged and Motorcyclist Magazine published a damage control apology letter and Dexter was fired. However, though the Snell Foundation was in full denial mode, they did in fact lower their requirements in subsequent certification issuances (so lives have been saved).
The moral: a company dependent upon supplier and advertiser good will may be unable to publish "the whole truth, and nothing but the truth". This is not them being evil, it's just the way of the world. [and why one should be skeptical about everything, and always try to figure out any underlying factors or constraints relative to ideas presented as "facts"]. YMMV
Stepping into the oil tornado. 😁
Nice garage there, Zito! 👏
What about diesel oil in a sport bike I see a lot of people doing this is this good or bd for the bike?
Good, just check it has the JASO MA or MB specification listed. Rotella T6 is widely used and loved (I use it myself).
My owners manual was totally dry.
Great video presentation!…..Oil is not a myth any more 👍
Come on where is ari Henning 😭😭😭
The few or only reason I watch this channel
yep, the old 'in the nineteen farties we always used X and ain't never had no problems..' just doesn't fly. Trust the manufacturers recommendations...
I only ride a single cylinder 300. But I ride the hell out of it, so full synthetic for me!
I have alot of trouble finding 20w40 for my fj1200 so I settle (for now) for 10w40 because I can find it and new bikes with the same engine recommend it for the broadest range of temperatures
I mean the only difference would be that the oil is a little thinner when cold which only affects it in really cold temperatures and in a good way, its easier to start. Its the same once the bike is at operating temperatures.
Do you know somebody that could sell me a four wheeler for $1000 and I am a kid just so you know I really want to ride
"Wait-what"!
Just change it, when oil becomes contaminated ( usually around 2,000 to 4,000 miles) time to change it. This is not set in stone, use your own discretion.
I didn't know that about Harley's. Two to three different kinds of oil? That's pretty fuckin insane.
Engine oil. Gearbox oil. Primary chain oil.
need to find an owners manual
100% synthetic is the best. it's not much expensive for each km.
Why not Ari for this subject?
I’ve always heard that if you go synthetic, then it’s damaging to go back to conventional. Is this true?
Switching to synthetic from conventional can cause leaks in older engines. If the engine can use conventional, then not really any problems. The extra cost of a DIY oil change with synthetic is only about a $3 difference.
TBH as far as I understand it has to do with your own personal engine if it is super high mileage just keep doing what was already done with. The problem usually arises when you go from conventional to synthetic on a higher mile engine. the reason most people experience a leak in this situation usually can be attributed to the detergents present in oil, an older and higher mileage engine has certain tolerances and build up that is fine but when you put an oil with more detergent and it cleans the build up out you can see the engine leak oil now that the buildup isn't plugging that gap.
TL;DR best to keep using the same oil you always are using to keep everything happy, no need to change unless you notice a problem in your bike
@@barrybambmessagedeletedbyy7467 thanks. I have a cb300f. I got it brand new. And have been doing only full synthetic even though it doesn’t specify. It’s a single and ride the hell out of it so I figured that would be best. I change the oil and filter myself every 3-4000 miles. So far so good. Just wanted to make sure I’m not hurting anything
@@MagicBrownMan +1 what this guy said. Bang on.
300V or bust
go to dealer ask what oil , slap credit card down. good 2 go
So the answer is “see owners manual”
👍
Way too many cooks in the kitchen. It was obvious the friction between the media staff in the last 2 podcasts, made it kind of hard to listen to, with people haveing snarky, between the lines arguments.
I miss Lemmy...
Also, don’t use diesel oil (Rotella).
Why
@@Gsxr2001boy per Rekluse, "In the past, Rekluse recommended multiple different oils to their customers. At one time they suggested using Delo 400, and more recently, Rotella. However, oil formulations have changed over the years. Based on customer and racing feedback on the performance of certain products, Rekluse shifted its guidance on oil. Austin Paden shared, “a lot of people don’t realize that diesel engine oils changed their formulas in recent years due to evolving emissions standards. The recent additives to the oil haven’t been good for the clutch and have generally caused in increase in clutch slippage.”
So what your saying is......follow you owners manual for everything 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Honda G4 FTW
20-50 redline babyyyy
Motul 300v 💪💪💪💪💪
Rotella T6 5W-40 babyyyyy
Only HD would build a motorcycle that needs 3 different oils at the same time... 🤣🤦♂️
I mean all cars have multiple oils, scooters have 2 oils, using 3 for different applications in a motorcycle doesn't sound that dramatic, my guess is that you don't need to change all 3 at the same time anyways.
It's easy. You buy Amsoil.
They have objectively the best protection performance in the industry.
Dont cheap out on oil.
i'm am compleally confused as to which is the best engine oil to put in my motorcycle engine for the 2021 Kawasaki W800B variant c1 version B Model number EJ800 CKF CAFE as i didnt get a owners manual booklet all i know is its supposed to be 10W/40 which just isnt enough info has a wet clutch and air cooled etc if you could find out that info for me i would be eternally greatfull and so would my bike as wish to ride and enjoy it for many years to come. I will also forgive you for thinking im a stupid lazy twat and shouldnt even be riding on the roads if i cant even work that out for myself these days but times have definatily change and become so god dam complicated.