Man, my heart jumped a little bit every time you're thumb guided the saw. No big deal for experienced carpenters, but for people who don't have many years of experience ... you WILL cut your thumb off if you do this. You really have to know your saw, your blade, and the wood you're working with to be safe to do that. Best video one stringers I've seen, though.
Doesn't matter how experienced you are, hands should NEVER be that close to the blade, especially once the blade is past your hand and your fingers are essentially behind the saw. I framed for 11 years before I mistakenly had my hand behind the saw while holding the board, and it caught and kicked back while simultaneously pulling the board forward. I split the ring finger on my left hand wide open, severing the tendon diagonally, and requiring surgery to splice it back together. It also split the tip to the first knuckle of my middle finger almost in two, barely missing the bone. My ring finger has a permanent 35 degree bend at the top knuckle, meaning i can't lay my hand flat, nor can I make a full fist, even after weeks of physical therapy. There is never ANY reason to have your hand that close to a saw blade. You can cut just as straight without having your hands in danger.
Great video! Thankyou for walking me through it. I just watched some egg-head on another video about building stairs talk about a star building book. I don't need a video to tell me how to read. You got straight to the point and walked through every step. Perfect!
Excellent explanation and exactly the same way I was taught. I got 2.00 more an hour after I showed my boss I could cut in stairs/stringers. That was back in the 80's.
A little trick I do when cutting the stringers is cut all the rises first, then all the runs, or vice versa. Basically so you aren't jumping back and forth, you cut all the same way then only switch direction once to go back the other way.Saves a little time.
This is definitely one of the better videos for straight forward explanation of this task especially for a non-contractor amateur like me. I finally fixed my 10 step stringer tonight at about 10 pm in my garage. I have a good template and now I can make the other two. Just wish I had a worm drive saw.
I would love to see a series of videos that give a snapshot of the entire construction process, from excavation and footers to shingles and siding. In particular I would like to see transit useage to attain elevations.
I agree with and like your explanation of the bottom riser adjustment. I remember first time I came cross that problem it took me ages to work out where to adjust. It's dead obvious now, but It really stumped me back then. Guessing by the comments here, it seems to be a common source of confusion.
What I might recommend would be to make a second video and if you are doing it on a job site, to stop talking when someone else is using a power tool until they are done. That way the viewer receives all the pertinent information you are giving. You are very good.
He had me figuring the Hypotenuse of the triangle of risers and treads and lay them out on the stringer with a tape so there would be less creep of the framing square. You would use the constant function on the calculator, so you did not need to keep reentering the hypotenuse. I would also cut both stringers at the same time just nail them together, take them apart after cutting them.
Very nice video, I cut stringers maybe once a year at most and tend to forget the little things like having an extra framing square handy, this weeks job will be much easier now.
Great video. I love your approach and delivery. Any person that follows this series of videos on stairs could build a staircase. Awesome job! Dont listen to everybody's comments about the thumb guiding your saw...I personally wouldn't do it but last time I checked the video was about making stairs not safety tips.
Excellent presentation...simple and direct. I've always had to slow down when doing stairs and crown mouldings...now, I will not have to slow down on stairs, and I've found a "secret" homemade jig for the mouldings...thx again
thats cool man. Right now im just trying to get into the carpenters union as an apprentice, after all, the word is they need us young guys in the trades!
Finally on youtube... someone who actually knows how to build a set of stringers. I never used engineered lumber for mine... nice and flat. How's the cost vs. a regular ol' 2x10 or 12?
Dude I've framed all my work life I'm 35 consider myself best framer around (don't we all) u did good man that's close to the way I do it u can do it so many ways people will always wine about something who cares let em good job. Jeremy from ks
You have done a very good job explaining it. You should teach..I am a carpenter also and I did not like you having your hand under the wood when cutting, but otherwise excellent!! best wishes Bill
Good video - thank you for taking the time to make this. Years ago a friend had the saw jump on them and slice off their thumb... you are too good at what you do to have something like that happen. I'm going to check out your other vids! Thanks again.
@mickeybinas To continue, because they were both carpet, we only needed to make an adjustment to the bottom riser so that the rise was the same from the floor to the stairs as from stair to stair. As another example, let's say the floor below was tile that would be 1" thick from sub floor, and the stairs were going to be carpet that is 1/2" thick- a difference of 1/2". In this example we would cut 5/8" off the bottom riser instead of 1 1/8". This would keep the 7" rise consistent.
Good question. Assuming the same finish flooring material for the floor and stairs, the bottom stringer has to be cut by the thickness of the framing tread material. On all the main stairs, the rise is what you have cut your stringer rises to. This is because it is that measurement plus the tread material on each one. On the bottom rise, it is the measurement plus the tread material, since there is no tread material on floor. Let me know if this makes sense.
That's an interesting question. It really seems to be a west coast/ east coast thing. Almost everyone on the west coast frames with a worm drive. On the east coast, you will rarely see one. I happen to like the worm drives because the blade is on the left side of the saw. As a right-handed person, that places the blade on the easy side to see. With a standard non-worm drive, the blade is on the right and you are trying to look over the saw to see where you are cutting.
I don't think you have to worry about the over cuts on an LVL stringer. The plywood is plenty strong, especially for a supported stringer. If it's a free spanning stair I wouldn't over cut, The over cuts actually make for a cleaner corner since jigsawss suck at following up.
I use a Douglas. Best hammer I have ever had in my hands. The knurls in the head are inverted/ reversed, so they don't wear out. Also, the handle is replaceable in 5 mins with 2 allen bolts. Can't recommend it highly enough.
Thank you. Obviously, I agree 100%. I didn't bother responding to those comments because I thought it would just end up in in one of those meaningless internet arguments with an anonymous internet "expert" . Again, I agree with every part of your comment- well said. Thanks again.
Hey Clarke: I know that your blog is two weeks old, so you may not check back to see this, but you ARE missing something. We shorten the bottom by the height of the tread so that the first tread will "feel" the same as the rest. All the stairs are 7.5" high (or whatever his number is), but they also all have tread on them. The floor you're walking on does NOT have a tread on it, so you lower the string by the height (thickness) of the tread. Similarly, when you hang the stringer below the floor of the upper level, you set the top of the stringer one tread thickness LOWER than the prescribed 7.5" below the landing surface. Hey Makenabuilt: Good video. I like your pace. The saw running in the background while you're trying to talk is VERY annoying, however. It would also be good to avoid 'dead spots' in the soundtrack. Thanks!
*****: Yes, you are correct. In the video, they treat it as if they are going to cover the treads and both floors with like material (e.g., carpet). If they were tiling the top or bottom floors, but not the treads, they would have to adjust the base of the stringer or where they attach to the wall below the upper deck.
You are thinking about this correctly. In the case on the video, carpet was being used in the hallway below the stairs, on the stairs, and in the hallway above the stairs, so it was the same thickness flooring material on all surfaces, so no adjustments were necessary. If you are using different flooring materials in the different areas, you will need to adjust your stringer trims accordingly. For example, if the floor mat. is thicker below the stairs than on the stairs, you would trim less.
@mickeybinas Good question. You're just over-thinking it a bit. The riser was 7" to start with like the rest of the risers, not 5 7/8. I took off the 1 1/8" on the first one so that it would end up a 7" rise like the rest. On all but the first rise, the same tread material is used from rise to rise, so they stay the same. On the first one, you have to make your adjustments for differences between floor covering and tread material. In this case, the floor and stairs were both carpet.
That was the bottom of the stringer, not the bottom. You just place the square so that there is enough room on the bottom of the stringer for the vertical portion of the stair. I go over this at approx. 2:00. At the point where the second square is against the knock, you need to have at least the height of your rise. If you don't have enough, move the 1st square up the stringer until you do.
In situations (as was the case here) where the finished floor is the same on the lower landing, upper landing and the stairs themselves, no adjustments are made for floor coverings. Normally you would be correct and adjustments would need to be made for differing floor covering thicknesses.
Yes, you just want to start your stringer close enough to the end of the board so that it fits on the board and also minimizes waste at the end of the board. Good luck!
Hi, great video. A quick question- I understand why you drop the stringer by the thickness of your tread and why you dropped of at the top to accept your 2x material to attach to the upper floor, but are you not also meant to drop the thickness of one riser material so all treads are of equal depth? Cheers
Excellent walkthru with stairs. Good tip not cutting all the way through with circular saw(sloppy construction, weakens stringer) although it is unfortunately done quite often. Question: Do you prefer LVL over 2x12 for stringers?
@plop7507 That adjustment is made at the bottom of the stringer. Assuming your floor coverings are the same from the floor to the stairs, you need to minus the thickness of the tread material from the bottom of the stringer so that the first rise is not too high. The rest of the rises don't need an adjustment since they all have the same material on them. If you need any addtl info, feel free to drop me a line through my website.
When figuring total rise, should you take into account BOTH the thickness of the floor material on the lower floor AND the thickness of the floor material on the upper floor? Thanks.
You forgot to deduct what thickness your putting on the riser from the top step, or your top step is bigger than the rest... so deduct 3/4 more if your using 3/4 on your risers.
as someone who is learning to make stairs this video is very helpful and i would like to say thanks but i do have one question . you took off the 1 1/8 from the bottom riser so it wouldn't be 8 1/8 which means you started with a 5 7/8 riser plus a 1 1/8 tread equals 7 but what about your flooring on the first floor seems like you will now have a step that is 1/8- 1" too short depending on the flooring
I'm confused. because you do not have the finished floor all ready on first floor, you have only the 3/4 plywood...so rises is 7" and the bottom rise after cut the tread material "1 inch 1/8" the first rise'll be with 5"7/8 but when you put the finish trade material" 1 inch 1/8" on top the bottom or the first step'll be with 7", right? My question is ... but when it installs a carpet or hardwood floor or any any material on first floor, the first step rise to get smaller the other rises.
yes, I get it now thanks a lot.. another question ..how can i Determine the slope of the stair by measuring the distance from 1 st floor to the basement floor (Example: 106” to the basement concrete to the subfloor or 3/4" plywood). the basement is finish on concrete and the treads finish material is 3/4 for the 1st floor and stairs. and where can i make the marks for the top tread line because we have the threshold door on 1st floor. thanks again
Am I wrong in thinking you should have divided the thickness of your stair tread material into each rise and then cut the tread material thickness off the bottom of your stringer. It seems that your last rise to you landing will be 8 and 1/8" instead of 7"
Great series. Thanks. Very basic question (and I'm sure obvious for experienced carpenters), but here goes: for the additional stringers did you use the first as a template or repeat the layout?
Typically, stair stringers are 2x12s. The videos have an LVL-type product based on engineering call-out. This is not typical. Landings usually are nailed to walls where applicable, and pony walled below on sides where there are no walls to nail to. Nail size would probably be a 16d hand drive or 10d gun nail. Definitely different nails if you are fastening to wood floor vs. concrete. Concrete nails typically have 1" embedment in the slab, so fastener is material thickness + 1". Good luck.
12 років тому
Nice videos. What the best method to fix the steps to the stringers: nails? screws? And how do you hide them to achieve a nice finishing?
Good stair video overall. Been carpentering since June 1973. I gotta tell you putting your fingers by that blade guiding the saw shoe is asking for it in the long run. If you are tired or God knows what else anything can happen on a job site you eventually gonna get the chop. Just sayin.
A Few Questions: 1) I've also seen video's that show drilling a hole at the intersection of the rise and run. What's your thoughts? 2) You talk about the stair tread but not about the board attached to the front of the riser. Does that change your calculations? 3) What are you thoughts on attaching the treads and riser boards for quietest stairs: Nails only, Nails and Construction Adhesive, Screws only, or Screws and Construction Adhesive? Thanks!
Hello. I have never seen drilling holes at the intersection of the rise and run. I see the logic in it, but not sure that is necessary if you don't over cut. Certainly won't harm anything if the hole is small... Toe kick is normally 1/2" ply and just tucks under the overhang of the tread. I have never had to adjust for it, but doesn't mean there isn't a scenario where it would be a good idea. As for quiet stairs, I have always just used copious amounts of nails and made sure everything is locked in tight. You can never go wrong with construction adhesive and/ or screws if you want a bit more insurance.
Thanks for your quick reply! Your videos were very informative and I will be building my first stairs this week at our new cabin. I've seen many videos showing similar layout processes but yours was the only one to use the stair nocks. A less than $5 suggestion for quick / repeatable angles! I especially liked how you refer to a landing as one of the steps for maintaining the integrity of the rise and run. (As my steps will need to have a landing.) Thanks Again!
Are those stringers structural laminate? And do you ever just eye ball when making the rise and rung on the stringers rather than going through calculations or is that just asking for trouble? Perhaps trial and error with a template?
ahh..how to do you know where to start first, you place the carpenter square but it seems like you can move that up and down, so how do you know where to start your cut . at 1:35 you just place it up at the top but not very top, why and what measurement. also doesnt the carpenter square on the thick side the same size of the 2x4, so you can simply use that that for the notch instead of drawing intersecting lines?
Technically LVLs should be more consistent material because they are engineered, but it is usually pretty easy to get good 2x12 material. So I guess I would say that I don't have a preference.
When you cut the 1 1/8 inch off of the bottom of the stringer to make the adjustment for the bottom stair tread you are essentially lowering the whole staircase. So wouldn't that lower your top stair by 1 1/8" now making your top stair rise to big? Shouldn't 1 1/8" be added to your total rise dimension when doing your calculation so that when you cut the bottom of the stringer the top is the same rise as well?
Don't forget that the landing at the top of the stairs doesn't receive this extra 1 1/8" of material. So chopping the entire staircase down 1 1/8" at the base effectively compensates for the material that was layed for the final step as well as the first step. Well thought out.
sorry but just a plumber trying to understand framing!! If your fished floor and stair material is the same (hard wood flooring) why do you still have to cut the bottom of the stringer. Wont that first stair now be shorter than the rest?
Need to ask are there standards for figuring total width of stairwell and allowance for railing (either wall mounted or bannister with posts on outside)? And, do you need to confirm level before fastening stringers or is working off the drawn level lines good enough? Thanks so much for your hard work and willingness to share.
Would you please clarify (total newb) the materials you used here (2x12? composite of some sort), please. Also, landing construction would be very helpful. Did you nail into the studs on the wall side thru stringer, and curious what length nail you used to assure stability off of the bottom 2x4 (into slab?) and does it make a difference what fasteners for wood vs concrete? I know you just promised to show the calc and layout, but materials and fastener pointers would be most appreciated!
One secret I will pass on to u rookies out there u don't need a square u can cut a PC of plywood or 2x12 u just have to have two sq corners measure from the same point on a PC of plywood say over 7 for riser and 10 for tread then connect those marks and use that PC to mark your stairs way faster an nothin wrong with it believe me done hundreds no complaints what so ever but have fixed a lot of peoples screw ups
The craftsmanship in every shelter is just wow!
Just built a staircase last night using nothing but this video series as my guide. Turned out amazing! Thanks!
still climbing?
Out of all the videos I've seen on building stairs this was the best one for me, Thanks I really appreciate it .
Man, my heart jumped a little bit every time you're thumb guided the saw. No big deal for experienced carpenters, but for people who don't have many years of experience ... you WILL cut your thumb off if you do this. You really have to know your saw, your blade, and the wood you're working with to be safe to do that. Best video one stringers I've seen, though.
Doesn't matter how experienced you are, hands should NEVER be that close to the blade, especially once the blade is past your hand and your fingers are essentially behind the saw. I framed for 11 years before I mistakenly had my hand behind the saw while holding the board, and it caught and kicked back while simultaneously pulling the board forward. I split the ring finger on my left hand wide open, severing the tendon diagonally, and requiring surgery to splice it back together. It also split the tip to the first knuckle of my middle finger almost in two, barely missing the bone. My ring finger has a permanent 35 degree bend at the top knuckle, meaning i can't lay my hand flat, nor can I make a full fist, even after weeks of physical therapy. There is never ANY reason to have your hand that close to a saw blade. You can cut just as straight without having your hands in danger.
Great video! Thankyou for walking me through it. I just watched some egg-head on another video about building stairs talk about a star building book. I don't need a video to tell me how to read. You got straight to the point and walked through every step. Perfect!
For someone that hasn't ever built stair, ++10000 % helpful. Thanks a lot
Excellent explanation and exactly the same way I was taught. I got 2.00 more an hour after I showed my boss I could cut in stairs/stringers. That was back in the 80's.
A true professional and a great teacher. No need to guess why if watching your instruction. Than You.
A little trick I do when cutting the stringers is cut all the rises first, then all the runs, or vice versa. Basically so you aren't jumping back and forth, you cut all the same way then only switch direction once to go back the other way.Saves a little time.
This is definitely one of the better videos for straight forward explanation of this task especially for a non-contractor amateur like me. I finally fixed my 10 step stringer tonight at about 10 pm in my garage. I have a good template and now I can make the other two. Just wish I had a worm drive saw.
thanks. after watching the 3 part series about 10 times I was able to cut my first set of stringers successfully!
If you a Professional keep those fingers there is the best for it . He does a good Job for lay out steps.
Solid work! Like the way you use your fingers as guides while cutting.
I would love to see a series of videos that give a snapshot of the entire construction process, from excavation and footers to shingles and siding. In particular I would like to see transit useage to attain elevations.
I agree with and like your explanation of the bottom riser adjustment. I remember first time I came cross that problem it took me ages to work out where to adjust. It's dead obvious now, but It really stumped me back then. Guessing by the comments here, it seems to be a common source of confusion.
What I might recommend would be to make a second video and if you are doing it on a job site, to stop talking when someone else is using a power tool until they are done. That way the viewer receives all the pertinent information you are giving. You are very good.
He had me figuring the Hypotenuse of the triangle of risers and treads and lay them out on the stringer with a tape so there would be less creep of the framing square. You would use the constant function on the calculator, so you did not need to keep reentering the hypotenuse. I would also cut both stringers at the same time just nail them together, take them apart after cutting them.
Very nice video, I cut stringers maybe once a year at most and tend to forget the little things like having an extra framing square handy, this weeks job will be much easier now.
Great video. I love your approach and delivery. Any person that follows this series of videos on stairs could build a staircase. Awesome job! Dont listen to everybody's comments about the thumb guiding your saw...I personally wouldn't do it but last time I checked the video was about making stairs not safety tips.
Excellent presentation...simple and direct. I've always had to slow down when doing stairs and crown mouldings...now, I will not have to slow down on stairs, and I've found a "secret" homemade jig for the mouldings...thx again
One of the best how-to's I've seen.
thats cool man. Right now im just trying to get into the carpenters union as an apprentice, after all, the word is they need us young guys in the trades!
Very Clear. Thank you! Just what I needed for stairs on my deck. great series.
Just built my first set of stringers based off this video. Thanks much
Good job. The best video out there on how to build stairs.
Finally on youtube... someone who actually knows how to build a set of stringers. I never used engineered lumber for mine... nice and flat. How's the cost vs. a regular ol' 2x10 or 12?
Dude I've framed all my work life I'm 35 consider myself best framer around (don't we all) u did good man that's close to the way I do it u can do it so many ways people will always wine about something who cares let em good job. Jeremy from ks
Good luck to you. There will always be a need for skilled carpenters!
Great video, I am using it to teach my Carpentry students in Pennsylvania. You should be a teacher, thanks.
You have done a very good job explaining it. You should teach..I am a carpenter also and I did not like you having your hand under the wood when cutting, but otherwise excellent!!
best wishes Bill
No one thinks about this, but let your camera-man know he did a great job as well.
Great video...Answered all my questions. Thanks for the upload!
I'm carpenter. And i love your video. You know what your doing but be carefulll man. Take care.
Good video - thank you for taking the time to make this. Years ago a friend had the saw jump on them and slice off their thumb... you are too good at what you do to have something like that happen. I'm going to check out your other vids! Thanks again.
I've been installing stairs for along time and you really did a nice job on the video.
@mickeybinas To continue, because they were both carpet, we only needed to make an adjustment to the bottom riser so that the rise was the same from the floor to the stairs as from stair to stair. As another example, let's say the floor below was tile that would be 1" thick from sub floor, and the stairs were going to be carpet that is 1/2" thick- a difference of 1/2". In this example we would cut 5/8" off the bottom riser instead of 1 1/8". This would keep the 7" rise consistent.
Good question. Assuming the same finish flooring material for the floor and stairs, the bottom stringer has to be cut by the thickness of the framing tread material. On all the main stairs, the rise is what you have cut your stringer rises to. This is because it is that measurement plus the tread material on each one. On the bottom rise, it is the measurement plus the tread material, since there is no tread material on floor. Let me know if this makes sense.
That's an interesting question. It really seems to be a west coast/ east coast thing. Almost everyone on the west coast frames with a worm drive. On the east coast, you will rarely see one. I happen to like the worm drives because the blade is on the left side of the saw. As a right-handed person, that places the blade on the easy side to see. With a standard non-worm drive, the blade is on the right and you are trying to look over the saw to see where you are cutting.
Your Video saved me $3500, thanks!
I don't think you have to worry about the over cuts on an LVL stringer. The plywood is plenty strong, especially for a supported stringer. If it's a free spanning stair I wouldn't over cut, The over cuts actually make for a cleaner corner since jigsawss suck at following up.
I use a Douglas. Best hammer I have ever had in my hands. The knurls in the head are inverted/ reversed, so they don't wear out. Also, the handle is replaceable in 5 mins with 2 allen bolts. Can't recommend it highly enough.
Thank you. Obviously, I agree 100%. I didn't bother responding to those comments because I thought it would just end up in in one of those meaningless internet arguments with an anonymous internet "expert" . Again, I agree with every part of your comment- well said. Thanks again.
thank you, thank you, thank you! great video. you really helped me! I know you're at a construction site, but I wish the background was more quite!
Excellent video you and the camera man make a great job and how about doing some windows, door's, etc.. thanks
Hey Clarke:
I know that your blog is two weeks old, so you may not check back to see this, but you ARE missing something. We shorten the bottom by the height of the tread so that the first tread will "feel" the same as the rest. All the stairs are 7.5" high (or whatever his number is), but they also all have tread on them. The floor you're walking on does NOT have a tread on it, so you lower the string by the height (thickness) of the tread.
Similarly, when you hang the stringer below the floor of the upper level, you set the top of the stringer one tread thickness LOWER than the prescribed 7.5" below the landing surface.
Hey Makenabuilt:
Good video. I like your pace. The saw running in the background while you're trying to talk is VERY annoying, however. It would also be good to avoid 'dead spots' in the soundtrack. Thanks!
*****:
Yes, you are correct. In the video, they treat it as if they are going to cover the treads and both floors with like material (e.g., carpet). If they were tiling the top or bottom floors, but not the treads, they would have to adjust the base of the stringer or where they attach to the wall below the upper deck.
You are thinking about this correctly. In the case on the video, carpet was being used in the hallway below the stairs, on the stairs, and in the hallway above the stairs, so it was the same thickness flooring material on all surfaces, so no adjustments were necessary. If you are using different flooring materials in the different areas, you will need to adjust your stringer trims accordingly. For example, if the floor mat. is thicker below the stairs than on the stairs, you would trim less.
Exellent video and well explained! Tomorow I will build for my first time stair and they will be legal :) Thanks!
Dang!!!! Awesome instructing. Thank you so much.
@mickeybinas Good question. You're just over-thinking it a bit. The riser was 7" to start with like the rest of the risers, not 5 7/8. I took off the 1 1/8" on the first one so that it would end up a 7" rise like the rest. On all but the first rise, the same tread material is used from rise to rise, so they stay the same. On the first one, you have to make your adjustments for differences between floor covering and tread material. In this case, the floor and stairs were both carpet.
Thank you! Just what I needed to know.
That was the bottom of the stringer, not the bottom. You just place the square so that there is enough room on the bottom of the stringer for the vertical portion of the stair. I go over this at approx. 2:00. At the point where the second square is against the knock, you need to have at least the height of your rise. If you don't have enough, move the 1st square up the stringer until you do.
In situations (as was the case here) where the finished floor is the same on the lower landing, upper landing and the stairs themselves, no adjustments are made for floor coverings. Normally you would be correct and adjustments would need to be made for differing floor covering thicknesses.
thank you for sharing your trade, it helps me for my next project
Yes, you just want to start your stringer close enough to the end of the board so that it fits on the board and also minimizes waste at the end of the board. Good luck!
excellent videos...very informative..the only thing missing is your safety glasses..
Hi, great video. A quick question- I understand why you drop the stringer by the thickness of your tread and why you dropped of at the top to accept your 2x material to attach to the upper floor, but are you not also meant to drop the thickness of one riser material so all treads are of equal depth? Cheers
I admire the ease with which you use that circular saw!
But yet, I also think you're going to cut off a finger one day.
Thank you! Just what I needed!
Excellent walkthru with stairs. Good tip not cutting all the way through with circular saw(sloppy construction, weakens stringer) although it is unfortunately done quite often. Question: Do you prefer LVL over 2x12 for stringers?
@plop7507 That adjustment is made at the bottom of the stringer. Assuming your floor coverings are the same from the floor to the stairs, you need to minus the thickness of the tread material from the bottom of the stringer so that the first rise is not too high. The rest of the rises don't need an adjustment since they all have the same material on them. If you need any addtl info, feel free to drop me a line through my website.
Great info, I know you are a Professional but watch your thumbs
@canartc Usually 2x12s are called out because so much material is removed in the cutting process.
When figuring total rise, should you take into account BOTH the thickness of the floor material on the lower floor AND the thickness of the floor material on the upper floor? Thanks.
You forgot to deduct what thickness your putting on the riser from the top step, or your top step is bigger than the rest... so deduct 3/4 more if your using 3/4 on your risers.
as someone who is learning to make stairs this video is very helpful and i would like to say thanks but i do have one question . you took off the 1 1/8 from the bottom riser so it wouldn't be 8 1/8 which means you started with a 5 7/8 riser plus a 1 1/8 tread equals 7 but what about your flooring on the first floor seems like you will now have a step that is 1/8- 1" too short depending on the flooring
I'm confused.
because you do not have the finished floor all ready on first floor, you have only the 3/4 plywood...so rises is 7" and
the bottom rise after cut the tread material "1 inch 1/8" the first rise'll be with 5"7/8 but when
you put the finish trade material" 1 inch 1/8" on top the bottom or the first step'll be with 7", right? My question is ...
but when it installs a carpet or hardwood floor or any any material on first floor, the first step rise to get smaller the other rises.
i love the dewalt saber saw. they are great but i think they fill them with lead. so I unnecessarily heavy.
yes, I get it now thanks a lot..
another question ..how can i Determine the slope of the stair
by measuring the distance from 1 st floor to
the basement floor (Example: 106” to the basement concrete to the subfloor or 3/4" plywood). the basement is finish on concrete
and the treads finish material is 3/4 for the 1st floor and stairs.
and where can i make the marks for the top tread line because we have the threshold door on 1st floor. thanks again
Thank you so much sir so informative . Sincerely
I also share the concern of your thumb as well. kickbacks happen to the best of them and have witnessed just the exact thing.
Am I wrong in thinking you should have divided the thickness of your stair tread material into each rise and then cut the tread material thickness off the bottom of your stringer. It seems that your last rise to you landing will be 8 and 1/8" instead of 7"
Thanks for the videos they're very informative. Just one thing - keep those fingers farther away from that sarp saw blade : - )
Great series. Thanks. Very basic question (and I'm sure obvious for experienced carpenters), but here goes: for the additional stringers did you use the first as a template or repeat the layout?
You trace the first one so any "mistakes" or alterations are the same on all three stringers.
Typically, stair stringers are 2x12s. The videos have an LVL-type product based on engineering call-out. This is not typical. Landings usually are nailed to walls where applicable, and pony walled below on sides where there are no walls to nail to. Nail size would probably be a 16d hand drive or 10d gun nail. Definitely different nails if you are fastening to wood floor vs. concrete. Concrete nails typically have 1" embedment in the slab, so fastener is material thickness + 1". Good luck.
Nice videos.
What the best method to fix the steps to the stringers: nails? screws?
And how do you hide them to achieve a nice finishing?
Thanks, I knew I overlooked something.
Good stair video overall. Been carpentering since June 1973. I gotta tell you putting your fingers by that blade guiding the saw shoe is asking for it in the long run. If you are tired or God knows what else anything can happen on a job site you eventually gonna get the chop. Just sayin.
I was wondering what is the shorted run allowed if you need to shorten how far they would protrude past a given wall?
Why did you not make any allowance for the finished floor thickness? Don't you have to account for that or your 1st step will be thrown off?
A Few Questions: 1) I've also seen video's that show drilling a hole at the intersection of the rise and run. What's your thoughts? 2) You talk about the stair tread but not about the board attached to the front of the riser. Does that change your calculations? 3) What are you thoughts on attaching the treads and riser boards for quietest stairs: Nails only, Nails and Construction Adhesive, Screws only, or Screws and Construction Adhesive? Thanks!
Hello. I have never seen drilling holes at the intersection of the rise and run. I see the logic in it, but not sure that is necessary if you don't over cut. Certainly won't harm anything if the hole is small...
Toe kick is normally 1/2" ply and just tucks under the overhang of the tread. I have never had to adjust for it, but doesn't mean there isn't a scenario where it would be a good idea.
As for quiet stairs, I have always just used copious amounts of nails and made sure everything is locked in tight. You can never go wrong with construction adhesive and/ or screws if you want a bit more insurance.
Thanks for your quick reply! Your videos were very informative and I will be building my first stairs this week at our new cabin. I've seen many videos showing similar layout processes but yours was the only one to use the stair nocks. A less than $5 suggestion for quick / repeatable angles! I especially liked how you refer to a landing as one of the steps for maintaining the integrity of the rise and run. (As my steps will need to have a landing.) Thanks Again!
Loved the videos, hate to see your left hand so close to the skillsaw blade . . .
Thank you.
Are those stringers structural laminate? And do you ever just eye ball when making the rise and rung on the stringers rather than going through calculations or is that just asking for trouble?
Perhaps trial and error with a template?
I understand. Thanks much. Good video's on stair building
ahh..how to do you know where to start first, you place the carpenter square but it seems like you can move that up and down, so how do you know where to start your cut . at 1:35 you just place it up at the top but not very top, why and what measurement. also doesnt the carpenter square on the thick side the same size of the 2x4, so you can simply use that that for the notch instead of drawing intersecting lines?
Technically LVLs should be more consistent material because they are engineered, but it is usually pretty easy to get good 2x12 material. So I guess I would say that I don't have a preference.
I love this. Good description of direction. but Mine are outside How do you adhere the bottom to the ground Do I need the 2x4 to adhere it to?
When you cut the 1 1/8 inch off of the bottom of the stringer to make the adjustment for the bottom stair tread you are essentially lowering the whole staircase. So wouldn't that lower your top stair by 1 1/8" now making your top stair rise to big? Shouldn't 1 1/8" be added to your total rise dimension when doing your calculation so that when you cut the bottom of the stringer the top is the same rise as well?
Don't forget that the landing at the top of the stairs doesn't receive this extra 1 1/8" of material. So chopping the entire staircase down 1 1/8" at the base effectively compensates for the material that was layed for the final step as well as the first step. Well thought out.
Awesome! Good stuff. Thanks man.
Part One was great. However, I need to know more about materials. The board out of which the stringer is made. Is it plywoos? How thick, how wide et .
What thickness is the stringer material, and how relevant is its thickness?
Well explained It help alot thanks
sorry but just a plumber trying to understand framing!! If your fished floor and stair material is the same (hard wood flooring) why do you still have to cut the bottom of the stringer. Wont that first stair now be shorter than the rest?
Need to ask are there standards for figuring total width of stairwell and allowance for railing (either wall mounted or bannister with posts on outside)? And, do you need to confirm level before fastening stringers or is working off the drawn level lines good enough? Thanks so much for your hard work and willingness to share.
Would you please clarify (total newb) the materials you used here (2x12? composite of some sort), please. Also, landing construction would be very helpful. Did you nail into the studs on the wall side thru stringer, and curious what length nail you used to assure stability off of the bottom 2x4 (into slab?) and does it make a difference what fasteners for wood vs concrete? I know you just promised to show the calc and layout, but materials and fastener pointers would be most appreciated!
thanks! very helpful videos.
Your lucky my old shop teacher doesn't see you using you're left thumb as a guide fence w/ the circular saw.
Nice vid, thanks for sharing.
One secret I will pass on to u rookies out there u don't need a square u can cut a PC of plywood or 2x12 u just have to have two sq corners measure from the same point on a PC of plywood say over 7 for riser and 10 for tread then connect those marks and use that PC to mark your stairs way faster an nothin wrong with it believe me done hundreds no complaints what so ever but have fixed a lot of peoples screw ups
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abbes jilali dont ask jj johnson to translate. that is dumber advice then makena custom homes is giving you
Just curious if you also deducted the thickness of the riser material or your top step will be a longer run?
Question, I have the 16oz stiletto hickory handle hammer. what one do you use in this video? looks like a Dalluge?