Young man you certainly have accumulated a lot of lumber and well worth the time you put into it so properly storing it is important so your hard work and the expensive lumber doesn’t go to waste.That was a good video on keeping your lumber safe while drying thanks as always for sharing your videos with us and God bless
Outstanding job, Wes! Ironic, as I'm about to do the exact same thing on my property. I love your term..."bacon boards". I think that's pretty darn descriptive! No better teacher than experience! 👍👍👍
Love your videos. Could watch milling all day long. You have been inspiring me to make my own kind of videos of doing work around my place. Keep it up!
I have sawed a lot of white pine here in southwest Va. and dried in a solar kiln to a MC of 10% or less then machined into shiplap for use inside a heated space. For a natural look with a whitewash or polyurethane it has turned out very nice. For painting I think setting the pitch is needed but lacking a better temp. controlled kiln, I used a paintable Sherwin-Williams shellac sealer that blocked the sap bleed so a primer then a finish latex paint worked well. My solar kiln does get up to approx. 140F in the summer months but not high enough to set the pitch. Just my two cents worth.
Thank you for this little tip my friend. You know I have been following you for years as well, I have a mill on order after several years of waiting for the finances to be inline with one. Thank you for this tip, I do plan to use some inside the house. So 160 for 24 hours is very valuable information for me sir, so thank you so much for taking enough time to care and share this with all who watch this video. Dale
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You dod a great job. Thanks again and keep up the great videos. You did not know it at the time, but you just helped me with my future kiln building, I liked your doors on the end and I could put the kiln on the fence row and not worry about it. Now after hearing you say that, I will scratch the idea and go with the larger doors on the back so thanks for the little tip you threw in at the very end about your kiln being not user friendly with the doors on the ends in lue of the back or front. Dale
The amount of work you put in is insane and is worth 100x more views, I guarantee if you get your channel out there and known your views and subscribers will skyrocket
Very good, now I know how to do something I may never use. Aligning the spacers even is a great to know. I do have a wood shed and this may be of help.
As you have found out and have known for a long time the milling is the easy part. Handling logs beforehand and lumber after sawing is the hard part. Good job!
Sir, I absolutely love that Battery chain saw, I got one after your review. Now I am just waiting for them to get more batteries. I want to have spares for camping. 👍🏻
An old tool for stacking lumber from one pack to another pack that will really save your back and makes your stacking go much faster is a simple tool called a "dead man." All it is is about a 3ft long metal pipe (about 2" diamter) that's welded to a metal base on one end of the pipe. You can use anything as the base of the tool like a 12"x12" piece of flat metal. The base sits on the ground and the pipe sticks up about 3 ft vertically in between the 2 packs about 1/3 of the distance in. You pick the board up on one end of one pack and walk it over a step and use the pipe end of the dead man thats sticking up vertically to pivot the board from one pack to another. You want to pipe to contact the board center of the board's width and about 1/3 of the length of the board from the end you are picking up on. Lumber graders and their stackers use this tool as the lumber grader is grading a pack of boards into multiple seperations of other grades.
Great video and nice stacking job. I have been told not make the stacks much over 4 foot wide to allow for the best air flow. Also the old timers say to sticker as close to either end of the board as possible. They say if a board checks on the end it will rarely go any farther than the sticker. Can you add your knowledge to those questions?
Liked lt. Good info .liked you tyding up. Some of them old timers would get all bent out shape if you stacked it wrong i didnt realize how important it was but showed me.lol may god bless you and your family. Heard the about.lifes foundation liked it
Hi Wes - interesting & informative video. I love Cats and it was great to see two more of your beauties, besides Balck & White foreman Cat that often follows you around. We often see Cricket and your other Dog, so perhaps you could do a short feature on the Cats, Dogs and other domestic animals you have around you! Meanwhile,, thanks, and stay safe & well.
This is a great instructional video. I will be needing to do this in the near future and was wondering how to do it properly so as to keep from getting "bacon boards" ;-) As always, thanks for taking the time to film, edit and share your adventures with us. :-) As for the kiln... I just watched the entire build series on that. I noticed the potential back breaking issues with the doors early on but didn't comment about it. Sorry that it didn't work out as planned. Can you not modify the back wall to make it a rear loader? Maybe even make use of the rear "porch" area and put a frame with wheels on two steel rails that will allow you to load the frame with lumber direct from the tractor outside, and then when you're ready, merely roll the whole assembly into the back of the kiln and shut the double doors and let it go. In my mind, that would make a less than desirable build design be turned into a highly functional and sought after design. Just a thought. Have a good day Wes. :-)
I have to say your cat does the exact same thing mine does too raps around your leg the ironic thing is he/she has the exact same coloring santa claus boots on his back legs, white patches here and there,we adopted ours from a local rescue group whisckers,tails and ferals they are champagne Tabby's "Poo & Roo" bros,fun video Sir ✌️🖖
My termites say everything you own is theirs. I spray them often but here in SC they will even eat treated lumber. The Orkin man said the worst he ever saw was PVC pipe with termite damage.
on the last couple layers of stacked wood, use taller stickers at one end, to get that slope you want. Spent a couple years as a tail-off in an Oregon Mill, I can stack pretty darn good although I prefer being Operator instead.
I started watching your channel about the time you were building that kiln. I thought at that time that you were kind of winging it building the kiln, it seems you changed you mind about what you wanted during the build a few times. I suspect that if you built a new one you'd come up with a far better design. Nice job building that stack, thanks for sharing.
Have a idea On the solar kiln, put a set of rails and cart. I would use 6 or 8 wheelbarrow rims (depending length of kiln) without the tiers riding on wooden rails. I'm thinking 4x6 beams on the outside and rounded over 3x3 shaped like the rims for rails. Load cart outside and push it in and shut the doors. No more head banging while loading. Let me know if you want more of my ideas. Enjoy your videos. I'm in the process of building my own band sawmill. Your UA-cam channel with other channels keeps my drive during this crap that's going on. Keep up the good work!
Great job on the stacking but I would not give up on the kiln. Not only would it be quicker to dry, the heat will kill any bugs in the wood. All you need to do is to create doors on the kiln on the tall wall below your wiring. Build a rolling cart to put wet wood in and roll out the dry. Perhaps even put wood on pallets to make moving around easy using the tractor.
great video! I've been milling Oak and Ash up hear in MN and i have found my top row of wood under the tin has been warping super bad, there are stickers between the tin and wood but they still warp all over the place. I've found putting a row of scraps as the last row of the stack to way it down has salved the problem then putting the tin right on top. also if the tin leaks from nail holes it tends to stain the scraps instead of the lumber. have you run into that problem of your top row warping so bad it's useless too?
Well worth the time and trouble to make sure the timber is stacked correctly, make the difference whether it's usable, or just a twisted mess which is no good for anything, except firewood and that is a real waste for this lovely timber.
You definitely exercised all muscle groups. Does the metal absorb heat and help dry the lumber or is it there just to keep rain/snow off the wood? This was a fun video to watch.
Just wondering how long that wood has to set before it’s considered dry & not green any more? Great video, Wes. You’re so detailed in what you do & we appreciate your explanations. Can’t remember asking you this before, but what part of the country are you in? God bless & stay safe!
As far as the solar kiln, stack your boards on a pallet outside the kiln at floor height and then pull the whole stack into the kiln with cable and tractor.
Have you tried spreading saw dust in the fertilizer spreader hopper? It may pack and not distribute without a chain in there. Just curious how it'll work.
Why are the little boards(called stickers maybe) on top of the 4x4's? I'm assuming to minimize the surface area of one board contacting the other? Will it rot in that spot, or stain the wood? Thanks.
OK, serious question: Why are the growth rings on the trees you are cutting (new growth) has wide rings versus old growth teeny spaces between the rings. Are recently planted trees more vigorous? The pretty lady in my picture thinks that old growth compressed the rings as the tree's circumference increased.
Hey Bruce, these trees had some nice tight rings. They are not really what you could call "old growth," but they're probably 30 + years old. Some new pine varieties grow very fast, that makes wide rings (just look at the end of a 2x4 the next time you go to Home Depot). These trees were standard loblolly pines, whereas newer trees are a fast growing variety. Slow growth = tight rings.
Is it possible to rework the kiln and put doors on the front/tall side? Seems a waste to not use it. Love the videos and kind of jealous of all the pine boards! Thanks!
Curious if you could install a foot throttle on you new tractor? I know it’s hydro drive but you could gain grapple control save fuel. Just a thought!! I sold heavy equipment for many years! Not that familiar with your new machine.
Jake Dean and Robert Milton are what I consider Pro Sawyers, I've spent countless hours with them learning the sawmill trade over the past 10 years, they advise to sticker every 16inches, I do the same, now that you have been educated go back and do it like a Pro 😀
Not to be a smart aleck or anything, but what I've learned from people who stack and sticker boards to become straight lumber, eventually, they tell me to begin stickering as close to the end of the boards as possible. If a lot of board is left hanging 'out in the breeze,' those boards don't have any support and they WILL droop. Then, you'll have no alternative but to cut off the ends of those boards. Plus, due to their not being constricted, they will develop more cracks and checks than if they had been sticker right out near the ends. Good luck in your stacking and stickering!
No, the sticker stain from the massive board to board contact would be awful, and it wouldn't dry because there would be no airflow. I've thought about that before, it just won't work.
It's fine and good to mill lumber, but without storing and drying properly, it was a waste of time, money, and resources. I don't say this as someone who does this, but as an observer. Good, informative video 👍🏼
The stuff I like to use: www.amazon.com/shop/falllineridge
Young man you certainly have accumulated a lot of lumber and well worth the time you put into it so properly storing it is important so your hard work and the expensive lumber doesn’t go to waste.That was a good video on keeping your lumber safe while drying thanks as always for sharing your videos with us and God bless
Thank you, sir. Always appreciate your comments.
Constructing the stickers, size, etc, wasskipped over - all in all, I'm watching what you post and learning. Straightforward and sensible.
Outstanding job, Wes! Ironic, as I'm about to do the exact same thing on my property. I love your term..."bacon boards". I think that's pretty darn descriptive! No better teacher than experience! 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching! Good luck!
Love your videos. Could watch milling all day long. You have been inspiring me to make my own kind of videos of doing work around my place. Keep it up!
Jeez, show your cat a little love too! 🤣
Yeah - I'll take a dog first, but the poor cat wanted some love too!!!
Also to use Pine inside a house they need to be heated up in a kiln to 160 degrees for 24 hours to set the pitch in the timber,
I have sawed a lot of white pine here in southwest Va. and dried in a solar kiln to a MC of 10% or less then machined into shiplap for use inside a heated space. For a natural look with a whitewash or polyurethane it has turned out very nice. For painting I think setting the pitch is needed but lacking a better temp. controlled kiln, I used a paintable Sherwin-Williams shellac sealer that blocked the sap bleed so a primer then a finish latex paint worked well. My solar kiln does get up to approx. 140F in the summer months but not high enough to set the pitch. Just my two cents worth.
Planning on doing something to kiln dry it right at the last, def don't want the shrinkage that comes with varying humidity indoors.
Thank you for this little tip my friend. You know I have been following you for years as well, I have a mill on order after several years of waiting for the finances to be inline with one. Thank you for this tip, I do plan to use some inside the house. So 160 for 24 hours is very valuable information for me sir, so thank you so much for taking enough time to care and share this with all who watch this video.
Dale
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You dod a great job. Thanks again and keep up the great videos.
You did not know it at the time, but you just helped me with my future kiln building, I liked your doors on the end and I could put the kiln on the fence row and not worry about it. Now after hearing you say that, I will scratch the idea and go with the larger doors on the back so thanks for the little tip you threw in at the very end about your kiln being not user friendly with the doors on the ends in lue of the back or front.
Dale
The amount of work you put in is insane and is worth 100x more views, I guarantee if you get your channel out there and known your views and subscribers will skyrocket
The guy has 230,000 subscribers! I’m confused about your expectations
Very good, now I know how to do something I may never use. Aligning the spacers even is a great to know. I do have a wood shed and this may be of help.
Always enjoy. Thanks for sharing. Your videos are great for us older guys who use to be 'out and about'.
Greatly appreciate you watching.
No matter how many 4x4's I mill, I never have enough....nice job.
Great video. Thanks for all the good tips. I really needed this video.
Stacking lumber hard job. Very nicely done👍👍🔥🔥
As you have found out and have known for a long time the milling is the easy part. Handling logs beforehand and lumber after sawing is the hard part. Good job!
You're exactly right, milling is easy!
Excellent job. I love to see anything stacked neatly in rows and symmetrical. Call me compulsive, I will agree.
Sir, I absolutely love that Battery chain saw, I got one after your review. Now I am just waiting for them to get more batteries. I want to have spares for camping. 👍🏻
I love all your vids,thank you so very much.I know it takes alot of time to film a quality viedo. 👌
Good job young man! There are some Choice pine wood in this stack. Please keep the videos coming.
Love that dog and cat...especially the cat. Good job on the stack too!
Great video. Thank you for many useful tips
nice work man ,it gives me the perfect example . prety soon il'lhave a lot a lumber to stack ,myself thanks
Wow, backbreaking work. I am amazed at how much work you do in a day.
Thankfully it's not all day every day!
That's his hobby! he has a day/night full time job.
Who would have thought stacking pine boards could be entertaining. What a Great Country this is.
Good job on stacking. When time to use it'll be well worth the effort. 👍🇺🇸
Thanks. I learned how to put the stickers right on top of each-other to prevent the bacon phenomenon!
Another awesome video as usual. That’s some of the fastest lumber stacking I’ve ever seen. 5hr energy or Red Bull? 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Great explanations!
foundation topic.... sounds like a good devotion :)
great work, thanks
An old tool for stacking lumber from one pack to another pack that will really save your back and makes your stacking go much faster is a simple tool called a "dead man." All it is is about a 3ft long metal pipe (about 2" diamter) that's welded to a metal base on one end of the pipe. You can use anything as the base of the tool like a 12"x12" piece of flat metal. The base sits on the ground and the pipe sticks up about 3 ft vertically in between the 2 packs about 1/3 of the distance in. You pick the board up on one end of one pack and walk it over a step and use the pipe end of the dead man thats sticking up vertically to pivot the board from one pack to another. You want to pipe to contact the board center of the board's width and about 1/3 of the length of the board from the end you are picking up on. Lumber graders and their stackers use this tool as the lumber grader is grading a pack of boards into multiple seperations of other grades.
Nice to see the beagle back.Missed him.
I really liked your stacking music
Beautiful stack job- I've stacked many a day as an incoming inspector/grader - you're beat at the end of the day 😀
No kidding! It'll make you sleep good at night.
Great video and nice stacking job. I have been told not make the stacks much over 4 foot wide to allow for the best air flow. Also the old timers say to sticker as close to either end of the board as possible. They say if a board checks on the end it will rarely go any farther than the sticker. Can you add your knowledge to those questions?
Nice stack of good lumber.
I ran my family's production sawmill for 15 years. My father taught me that sawing lumber is a logistic problem with a sawmill in the middle.
I don't have a logistics problem, I have a logistics nightmare!!
We use 4” solid concrete blocks to keep timber off the ground. Inexpensive and easy to level with a little gravel.
Yep, I meant to mention concrete blocks too. They work great.
Good info ty.
Oh man, was I glad to see Cricket girl? You bet I was. Thanks Wes.
Liked lt. Good info .liked you tyding up. Some of them old timers would get all bent out shape if you stacked it wrong i didnt realize how important it was but showed me.lol may god bless you and your family. Heard the about.lifes foundation liked it
Hi Wes - interesting & informative video. I love Cats and it was great to see two more of your beauties, besides Balck & White foreman Cat that often follows you around. We often see Cricket and your other Dog, so perhaps you could do a short feature on the Cats, Dogs and other domestic animals you have around you! Meanwhile,, thanks, and stay safe & well.
This is a great instructional video. I will be needing to do this in the near future and was wondering how to do it properly so as to keep from getting "bacon boards" ;-) As always, thanks for taking the time to film, edit and share your adventures with us. :-)
As for the kiln... I just watched the entire build series on that. I noticed the potential back breaking issues with the doors early on but didn't comment about it. Sorry that it didn't work out as planned. Can you not modify the back wall to make it a rear loader? Maybe even make use of the rear "porch" area and put a frame with wheels on two steel rails that will allow you to load the frame with lumber direct from the tractor outside, and then when you're ready, merely roll the whole assembly into the back of the kiln and shut the double doors and let it go. In my mind, that would make a less than desirable build design be turned into a highly functional and sought after design. Just a thought. Have a good day Wes. :-)
I have to say your cat does the exact same thing mine does too raps around your leg the ironic thing is he/she has the exact same coloring santa claus boots on his back legs, white patches here and there,we adopted ours from a local rescue group whisckers,tails and ferals they are champagne Tabby's "Poo & Roo" bros,fun video Sir ✌️🖖
My termites say everything you own is theirs. I spray them often but here in SC they will even eat treated lumber. The Orkin man said the worst he ever saw was PVC pipe with termite damage.
the dog's sayin'.. Dad, the big board is just perfect to play a game with!
Metal roofing definitely the way to go. Cheap plastic tarps only last a few months. The metal also looks better.
Would it not have been better to move the trailer closer to the stack?
on the last couple layers of stacked wood, use taller stickers at one end, to get that slope you want. Spent a couple years as a tail-off in an Oregon Mill, I can stack pretty darn good although I prefer being Operator instead.
What dimensions do you cut your 2x4s to allow for shrinkage down to 1.5" x 3.5" during the air drying process?
I started watching your channel about the time you were building that kiln. I thought at that time that you were kind of winging it building the kiln, it seems you changed you mind about what you wanted during the build a few times. I suspect that if you built a new one you'd come up with a far better design. Nice job building that stack, thanks for sharing.
If I built a new one I think I'd go by the Virginia Tech design.
I have to ask . Why didn't you move the trailer to the stack ? Great video none the less . Keeping pine from staining is a chore .
to night i learnt some thing thanks
Very nice. God bless.
Have a idea
On the solar kiln, put a set of rails and cart.
I would use 6 or 8 wheelbarrow rims (depending length of kiln) without the tiers riding on wooden rails.
I'm thinking 4x6 beams on the outside and rounded over 3x3 shaped like the rims for rails.
Load cart outside and push it in and shut the doors. No more head banging while loading.
Let me know if you want more of my ideas.
Enjoy your videos. I'm in the process of building my own band sawmill. Your UA-cam channel with other channels keeps my drive during this crap that's going on.
Keep up the good work!
I use pallets to stack on, have you ever tried that? I find it works great for me. Ron
very nice
Where is your son? He adds a big smile to my face ❤
Nice job of stacking wood to dry
Great job on the stacking but I would not give up on the kiln. Not only would it be quicker to dry, the heat will kill any bugs in the wood. All you need to do is to create doors on the kiln on the tall wall below your wiring. Build a rolling cart to put wet wood in and roll out the dry. Perhaps even put wood on pallets to make moving around easy using the tractor.
Kiln drying home made style is a big no no. Guaranteed warping splitting.
Do you have fluid in your back tires? I have the same tractor and a LT28 mill. I keep a 6’ box blade on mine it’s still lite in the rear end.
great video! I've been milling Oak and Ash up hear in MN and i have found my top row of wood under the tin has been warping super bad, there are stickers between the tin and wood but they still warp all over the place. I've found putting a row of scraps as the last row of the stack to way it down has salved the problem then putting the tin right on top. also if the tin leaks from nail holes it tends to stain the scraps instead of the lumber. have you run into that problem of your top row warping so bad it's useless too?
Caulk those holes in tin. Doesn't take long. Warping because tops keep getting wet while bottom of board stays dry..
Well worth the time and trouble to make sure the timber is stacked correctly, make the difference whether it's usable, or just a twisted mess which is no good for anything, except firewood and that is a real waste for this lovely timber.
You definitely exercised all muscle groups. Does the metal absorb heat and help dry the lumber or is it there just to keep rain/snow off the wood? This was a fun video to watch.
It probably helps, but it's primarily just to keep rain off.
How long does it take to dry lumber?
Great video very informative. Looks like u had a lot of help from your little beagle. Was that Cricket? I really enjoy all of your videos. Thanks
That was Cricket, we installed an underground fence for her so she can wander again without getting in the highway.
If you don't put sticks in the same spot on every layer you could cause the lumber to warp.
j’aime votre chaine, j’aime beaucoup le bois
Do u use the same type of wood for stickers as ur wood ur trying to dry
why not tie the stack with straps? then the wood cant warp
Are the stickers fresh cut or already dried out?
I stack lumber for a living. We use forklifts and a machine to stack the lumber.
Just wondering how long that wood has to set before it’s considered dry & not green any more? Great video, Wes. You’re so detailed in what you do & we appreciate your explanations. Can’t remember asking you this before, but what part of the country are you in? God bless & stay safe!
Rule of thumb is one year of drying per inch of thickness.
Georgia.
Learned something from this video! How long does it take for that 1x to dry enough so it can be used?
Rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness.
@@falllineridge Thanks for that info!
Hey Man, y'all are talented. Surely you could run a door location mod on the kiln.
I'm sure I could, but I just don't know if it'd be worth it.
I was wondering what became of the solar kiln. Now I know. Still like the video series though
As far as the solar kiln, stack your boards on a pallet outside the kiln at floor height and then pull the whole stack into the kiln with
cable and tractor.
The would work with some modifications. I think it just needs to be torn down and redone honestly.
Wood love that wood at my place. Good job.
Just curious, why arent you cutting up all that slabwood for you woodburner?
Have you tried spreading saw dust in the fertilizer spreader hopper? It may pack and not distribute without a chain in there. Just curious how it'll work.
I haven't tried that...My sawdust goes to waste. Not sure how good pine dust would be for soil.
Why are the little boards(called stickers maybe) on top of the 4x4's? I'm assuming to minimize the surface area of one board contacting the other? Will it rot in that spot, or stain the wood? Thanks.
You are correct on all counts. It will likely stain the board badly in that spot.
OK, serious question: Why are the growth rings on the trees you are cutting (new growth) has wide rings versus old growth teeny spaces between the rings. Are recently planted trees more vigorous? The pretty lady in my picture thinks that old growth compressed the rings as the tree's circumference increased.
Hey Bruce, these trees had some nice tight rings. They are not really what you could call "old growth," but they're probably 30 + years old. Some new pine varieties grow very fast, that makes wide rings (just look at the end of a 2x4 the next time you go to Home Depot). These trees were standard loblolly pines, whereas newer trees are a fast growing variety. Slow growth = tight rings.
Is it possible to rework the kiln and put doors on the front/tall side? Seems a waste to not use it. Love the videos and kind of jealous of all the pine boards! Thanks!
Possibly, it might be better to take it as a learning experience and start over though, if I decide to go that route.
Should be fairly easy to put double doors on back of kiln so you can load and unload with forks. I'm sure you have pondered that.
Curious if you could install a foot throttle on you new tractor?
I know it’s hydro drive but you could gain grapple control save fuel. Just a thought!! I sold heavy equipment for many years! Not that familiar with your new machine.
I'm sure it could be done somehow...would probably take some fabricating.
why no gaps between slabs?
Looks like to me, your next purchase should be an edger saw. Good video
I've been thinking about that for sure. Maybe!
Jake Dean and Robert Milton are what I consider Pro Sawyers, I've spent countless hours with them learning the sawmill trade over the past 10 years, they advise to sticker every 16inches, I do the same, now that you have been educated go back and do it like a Pro 😀
Not to be a smart aleck or anything, but what I've learned from people who stack and sticker boards to become straight lumber, eventually, they tell me to begin stickering as close to the end of the boards as possible. If a lot of board is left hanging 'out in the breeze,' those boards don't have any support and they WILL droop. Then, you'll have no alternative but to cut off the ends of those boards. Plus, due to their not being constricted, they will develop more cracks and checks than if they had been sticker right out near the ends.
Good luck in your stacking and stickering!
Ha! Thanks for the tips. Just going for semi pro here.
Why cannot you use cement blocks and gravel? Does it always have to be timbers on the ground?
Concrete blocks work great, I planned to mention that in the video but forgot.
Why not concrete blocks beneath your "sacrificial" lumber?
00:30 - you can tell he usually showers the cats with attention
how anchor tin?
Why can't the boards be laid crisscross? Like one layer horizontal the other layer vertical. Wouldn't that help?
No, the sticker stain from the massive board to board contact would be awful, and it wouldn't dry because there would be no airflow. I've thought about that before, it just won't work.
Birdies!!
Plastic or even old pole barn steel down on the ground first. Block the ground moisture . And the pile should have been off the ground farther .
Show 👏👏👏🇧🇷
What blade are you using?
Wood Mizer Double Hard 10 degree.
Should always use dry sticks also
It's fine and good to mill lumber, but without storing and drying properly, it was a waste of time, money, and resources.
I don't say this as someone who does this, but as an observer.
Good, informative video 👍🏼
You are absolutely correct.
How long will that stack of wood take to dry ?
6 months-1 year. Rule of thumb is 1 year per inch of thickness. Will need them in the summer though.
Pine will be dry in a couple months.