I have a tubular steel frame aircraft which I plan on just paining. Aside from cost, there is a real advantage to paint over powder coat and that is paint will not hide steel cracks in the weld joints or other places.
A couple of additional possible disadvantages I've found. Corrosion can creep under the coating where there is a break in the coating like around bolt holes, etc. The coating will then peel off in sheets. Mechanical stripping as shown with a Scotch- Brite could remove some base metal. I've has good results wiping areas clean after applying Aviation Paint Stripper.
I just did mine on my CH 750 STOL. Picks on the CH 750 forum. I would have had to heat lamped my cabin frame, it was way too big for my oven. :) Great video, as always.
You missed a couple of other options for protection from corrosion. You can zinc chromate steel you can also have the steel galvanized you can also play the steel in copper nickel and Chrome. Believe it or not you can actually plate many small parts in Copper and nickel combination and it looks almost as good as Chrome works very well for Corrosion Protection when done well and you can do it at home. I'm sure there are even more ways to protect your metal from corrosion that I forgot about.
The high temperature masking tape is called Kapton tape. It's available on Amazon, or if you're cheap and don't mind waiting for delivery, you can get it for less on eBay.
Hint #1. Dont use the oven in the kitchen when wife isn't home...cuz you cant use the oven for cooking ever sgain!!!!! Hint #2 . Avoid dark colors..especially with steel parts.. if for some reason welds are cracking for whatever reason...you wont see any rust with a dark color. White or light gray easiest to see cracks/rust as well !!!!
You missed a couple of other options for protection from corrosion. You can use zinc chromate have it played in nickel or chromium or have it galvanized quite easily.
Is there a low temperature version of powder coating that is suitable for carbon compounds? At around 4:25 you say that "You can powder coat yourself" ;) Seriously, though, thanks for another informative video that explains new techniques, alternatives and the benefits & drawbacks.
On 6061-T6 there is about a 2% - 4 % loss in strength.However, I wouldn't do it, unless you do your research. Plus I wouldn't want the powder coat between the layers of aluminum I am riveting. This is a good paper on it, digitalcommons.lmu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1009&context=mech_fac On steel its not hot enough to affect the temper. Also you don't have to cook parts to 400 F, you can go as low as 300 F, it depends on the powder coat. The instructions say 350 F, but you can get flow as low as 250 F. These are mostly opinions not facts, so every man or woman for themselves.
I have a tubular steel frame aircraft which I plan on just paining. Aside from cost, there is a real advantage to paint over powder coat and that is paint will not hide steel cracks in the weld joints or other places.
A couple of additional possible disadvantages I've found. Corrosion can creep under the coating where there is a break in the coating like around bolt holes, etc. The coating will then peel off in sheets. Mechanical stripping as shown with a Scotch- Brite could remove some base metal. I've has good results wiping areas clean after applying Aviation Paint Stripper.
I just did mine on my CH 750 STOL. Picks on the CH 750 forum. I would have had to heat lamped my cabin frame, it was way too big for my oven. :) Great video, as always.
You missed a couple of other options for protection from corrosion. You can zinc chromate steel you can also have the steel galvanized you can also play the steel in copper nickel and Chrome. Believe it or not you can actually plate many small parts in Copper and nickel combination and it looks almost as good as Chrome works very well for Corrosion Protection when done well and you can do it at home.
I'm sure there are even more ways to protect your metal from corrosion that I forgot about.
The high temperature masking tape is called Kapton tape. It's available on Amazon, or if you're cheap and don't mind waiting for delivery, you can get it for less on eBay.
Hint #1. Dont use the oven in the kitchen when wife isn't home...cuz you cant use the oven for cooking ever sgain!!!!!
Hint #2 . Avoid dark colors..especially with steel parts.. if for some reason welds are cracking for whatever reason...you wont see any rust with a dark color. White or light gray easiest to see cracks/rust
as well !!!!
great explanation!
Worked in a shelving factory that did powder coating. It doesn't come off as easy as they make it look.
You missed a couple of other options for protection from corrosion. You can use zinc chromate have it played in nickel or chromium or have it galvanized quite easily.
Is there a low temperature version of powder coating that is suitable for carbon compounds? At around 4:25 you say that "You can powder coat yourself" ;)
Seriously, though, thanks for another informative video that explains new techniques, alternatives and the benefits & drawbacks.
Nice video. Please consider increasing the pace of your vocals.
I play at 1.5 x speed. Works for me. Even 2 x is ok
Does powder coating crack when flexed? For example on spring type landing gear struts.
Just burn the powder coat off with a torch. turns back to powder and falls off clean.
Anything that conducts electricity can be powder coated.
What is 400 F doing to the temper of aluminum and steel ?????
On 6061-T6 there is about a 2% - 4 % loss in strength.However, I wouldn't do it, unless you do your research. Plus I wouldn't want the powder coat between the layers of aluminum I am riveting. This is a good paper on it, digitalcommons.lmu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1009&context=mech_fac
On steel its not hot enough to affect the temper. Also you don't have to cook parts to 400 F, you can go as low as 300 F, it depends on the powder coat. The instructions say 350 F, but you can get flow as low as 250 F. These are mostly opinions not facts, so every man or woman for themselves.
@@JohnMGreiner Actually, there is about a 2.5 to 4% increase of strength at 400 F for the first 45 minutes of soak time.
I saw a guy who polished his plane :)
My brother polished his entire sonex waiex. :) Was a lot of work, but looks great.
That's typically for the aluminum skin