Torque values. I suggest investing in/using a torque wrench. - Oil filter cap (canister) assembly is 25 N-m or 18 ft-lb. - Oil filter cap (canister) drain plug is 12.5 N-m or 9 ft-lb, - Engine oil pan drain plug is 40 N-m or 30 ft-lb.
I respect torque values but in this case it's unnecessary. The filter drain cap has a gasket and is metal, the filter cap itself it metal- threaded meaning you manually can't over-tighten it in the same way you can with metal on plastic (albeit sometimes, as I'm this video, you can make it more "snug"). The torque specs for RX oil components are basically the same as you hand tightening it. I torque everything else to spec.
The 2010 on through to about 2014, or so, are the best iterations of the RX350. Some 2009's might be okay but you definitely want to stay away from the 2007 and 2008 RX 350's. Way too many problems/complaints.
Can't tell by watching but the oil filter cap torque spec is 25 N•m and the drainbolt on the oil filter cap is half that at 12.5 N•m If that's not followed sometimes the entire assembly wants to come off when you go to remove the drainbolt.
3:32 yikes. Torque on the filter housing is only 18 ft-lbs. It’s sealed by the O-ring, not the threads. Cranking it tight is a good way to break it - happens quite often. Loosing the oil cap before/while draining to better get everything out. Replace the crush washer on the drain plug. 2010 likely has substantial miles (235k on mine). High mileage 5w-30, as specified in non-CAFE countries, can slow/stop/prevent leaks.
I’d say it was pretty close to 18 ft-lbs, just snugged it up. No need for a torque wrench for an oil filter! I don’t buy into the hype of “high mileage” oil. The engine has zero leaks after 175k miles, I’ll stick with synthetic oil at the weight the factory recommends.
Thank you so much!! First time doing a Lexus and I was wondering where the filter could be since in Honda’s one can see the little filter hanging out underneath
Make sure to get the filter on tight, there's a reason you break it loose with a half inch cap, hand tight won't seal completely (turn until you hear the metal contact on the last half turn or so). Otherwise it WILL seep
@@SuburbanRanchactually….if you notice, it is an O’ring that seals the filter housing, NOT the torque. There is no reason whatsoever you would need to honk down on that that much.
Don't forget a crush washer on the oil pan plug. They don't come with the filters. ...his was stuck to the side of the oil pan and luckily didn't fall off.
From the owner's manual: "About 1.6 qt. (1.5 L, 1.3 Imp. qt.) is required to raise the oil level from low to full on the dipstick." You should also start the car, let it warm to operating temperature, shut it off, wait five minutes, then check. Simply checking after adding cold oil will not be accurate - cold oil flows slowly to the pan and there is no oil in the filter you just installed. It could read .4qt higher than it will after running, which will fill the filter and housing. Again, from the owner's manual: - With the engine at operating temperature and turned off, check the oil level on the dipstick. - Park the vehicle on level ground. After turning off the engine, wait more than 5 minutes for the oil to drain back into the bottom of the engine.
Most informative video I have seen for this model Lexus
Torque values. I suggest investing in/using a torque wrench.
- Oil filter cap (canister) assembly is 25 N-m or 18 ft-lb.
- Oil filter cap (canister) drain plug is 12.5 N-m or 9 ft-lb,
- Engine oil pan drain plug is 40 N-m or 30 ft-lb.
I respect torque values but in this case it's unnecessary. The filter drain cap has a gasket and is metal, the filter cap itself it metal- threaded meaning you manually can't over-tighten it in the same way you can with metal on plastic (albeit sometimes, as I'm this video, you can make it more "snug"). The torque specs for RX oil components are basically the same as you hand tightening it. I torque everything else to spec.
Thank you. Finally, I got the torque specs.
Don't forget always change the drain bolt washer also
The 2010 on through to about 2014, or so, are the best iterations of the RX350. Some 2009's might be okay but you definitely want to stay away from the 2007 and 2008 RX 350's. Way too many problems/complaints.
Also, First take off the filler cap and pull the dipstick out slightly and then remove the oil drain bolt
Can't tell by watching but the oil filter cap torque spec is 25 N•m and the drainbolt on the oil filter cap is half that at 12.5 N•m
If that's not followed sometimes the entire assembly wants to come off when you go to remove the drainbolt.
@JackTannehillPromotor Good info!
Hi sir,it would have been better if you filled the oil filter with a little oil.🙏👏
3:32 yikes. Torque on the filter housing is only 18 ft-lbs. It’s sealed by the O-ring, not the threads. Cranking it tight is a good way to break it - happens quite often.
Loosing the oil cap before/while draining to better get everything out.
Replace the crush washer on the drain plug.
2010 likely has substantial miles (235k on mine). High mileage 5w-30, as specified in non-CAFE countries, can slow/stop/prevent leaks.
I’d say it was pretty close to 18 ft-lbs, just snugged it up. No need for a torque wrench for an oil filter! I don’t buy into the hype of “high mileage” oil. The engine has zero leaks after 175k miles, I’ll stick with synthetic oil at the weight the factory recommends.
Awesome. Very detailed video. Thanks 😊
Excellent info.
When you reset the Maintenance warning, does it reset to 5000 miles? Thanks, great video!
@Backlineguy The oil service light will come back on in 5000 miles
Thanks!! For your video 👍🏽
Thank you so much!! First time doing a Lexus and I was wondering where the filter could be since in Honda’s one can see the little filter hanging out underneath
Make sure to get the filter on tight, there's a reason you break it loose with a half inch cap, hand tight won't seal completely (turn until you hear the metal contact on the last half turn or so). Otherwise it WILL seep
@David Moore Just don’t go too crazy, it will be hard to get off!
@@SuburbanRanchactually….if you notice, it is an O’ring that seals the filter housing, NOT the torque.
There is no reason whatsoever you would need to honk down on that that much.
Thank you so much! It is clear my questions. 👍👍👍
Don't forget a crush washer on the oil pan plug. They don't come with the filters. ...his was stuck to the side of the oil pan and luckily didn't fall off.
@Dan Turner Been 22 oil changes and it’s still going strong ha. It is a good idea to change it though.
Best video thank you so much!!!
Thanks... very concise & informative
Perfect ! thank u
Thanks!
Forgot to mention it takes 6.4 quart of oil
@8:30 we mention it. Thanks for the comment, easier for people to find now.
Super!
Perfect video.
Thank you
Amazing 😎
Perfect 👍🏽
What size is the oil filter wrench for these 64mm or 65mm? Thanks.
@BMAK79 65mm, believe we mention that around 3:10
Did you measure the extra 1.4 quarts? Mine always reaches the top dimple.
@g w Just eyeballed it on the side of the jug
From the owner's manual: "About 1.6 qt. (1.5 L, 1.3 Imp. qt.) is required to raise the oil level from low to full on the dipstick."
You should also start the car, let it warm to operating temperature, shut it off, wait five minutes, then check. Simply checking after adding cold oil will not be accurate - cold oil flows slowly to the pan and there is no oil in the filter you just installed. It could read .4qt higher than it will after running, which will fill the filter and housing.
Again, from the owner's manual:
- With the engine at operating temperature and turned off, check the oil level on the dipstick.
- Park the vehicle on level ground. After turning off the engine, wait more than 5 minutes for the oil to drain back into the bottom of the engine.
New crush washer?
@S Gomez Yes, that would be a good idea. We reused the old one.
do you use a rubber gasket on the drain plug?
@Tawn Tran It has a gasket built in. I think it might be rubber
@@SuburbanRanch Awesome thanks! Video was very helpful!