Buffalo Corp. ECSS electric sharpener to sharper - refurbish bad chainsaw blades
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- For the cost and how well the sharpener does the job, I think this is a bargain. Professionals will wish a different sharpener (from $230 - $550), though people who are not professional wood cutters will like this or a similar sharpener.
I don't heat my home with wood, but I do heat my cabin with wood, so I spend a bit of time cutting & splitting wood. A few years ago I started using an electric chainsaw. It's quiet and starts with the push of a button, I love it. Lots of silver maple where I live, soft, splits easy and seasons fast.
I posted an earlier comment, but it's not showing up.
I said it would be a good idea to make silicone molds of the plastic parts on the chuck. They are going to be the weak link and you will never find replacement parts. If you don't know how to do it, it's pretty easy and works for a kinds of plastic parts. My windows have plastic parts that I can no longer get, so I took a broken one and glued it together and then duplicated it. You can get pretty strong plastic resin. Shouldn't use more than $5-$10 worth of materials.
We burn juniper and piñon where I’m at. It’s does a number on a chainsaw blade because of the years and years of sand that builds up in the wood.
Nice, need to get me one. Hand filing is for the birds.
Looks interesting. I always sharpen mine by hand using either a file.or a file. I.might juat get me one of these and give it a try.
This video helped a lot, as the instructions that come with the unit are terrible. Thanks for posting this, setup was easy after viewing.
Thanks. Never understood the mystery of chain saws before!
Just wanted to thank you! Your video is awesome. Very helpful indeed.
I love my little Harbor Freight unit. It's only a tad easier to operate than yours.
I cut all of my chains at 25 degrees. Just a personal preference.
My eyesight is not improving with age, so I like to have a magnifying glass handy, when doing touchups, to see if the bluntness has been erased.
You've probably noticed that there's some side play in the pivot of the head, which is kinda nice to lightly lean into, when a cut hasn't been quite enough.
It took me 2 hours to figure out how this bloody thing worked when I got it. I am used to hand filing.
G'day Dave,
Yay Team!
"Under $50..." ; Yikes, what an absolute Hummdinger, that's a Bobbydazzler of a machine ; a huge amount of Technology for a pittance...!
It's an example of the "Excellent Value Chinesium" which is out there, in among the "Average" & the "Shitty" which are much easier to encounter.
Beware of their "mtm" brand Chainsaws though..., apart from the usual pitfalls from the cheaply manufactured Powerhead, mine (a "62-SX") came with a Bar which is too long - so the Saw balances wrongly & dips it's nose in the Dirt every time it's put down, it's Groove is too wide for the (narrow profile) Chain - so the Links don't sit "Flat" but rather they wobble side to side (if they had used the correct Chain for the Bar, maybe the Motor wouldn't have sufficient "Grunt" to pull it through the Wood...?).
And the Bar appears to feature unhardened Mild Steel Edges on the Chain-Groove - so within 2 hours of first use the loosely wobbling Chain had worn down the outer edges of the Bar Groove's Top-sides - allowing the Chain to "Rock & Roll" from side to side dependant on which Teeth are the sharpest & which cut & bite in the deepest, therefore pulling the Chain off-centre...., leaving "Ripple-Faced" ends on both sides of the Cut.
By 3 Hours it was jamming itself by trying to cut in Curvaceous Lines - sometimes Left & other times Right - depending on which Teeth started the departure from the Straight & Narrow.
At the 3-Hour mark I "Dressed" the Bar with my Powerfile - but it's not much better...; I think the Chain-Bases are also soft Steel & they're now all worn off-centre as well...(?).
So, I think that I'm going to have to buy a (propperly manufactured) shorter Bar, and a new Chain the Tangs of which fit into the Bar's Groove without wobbling.
So much for the $130 Chainsaw, which otherwise ignites the Bark on the Wood being cut - with it's stupidly-routed Exhaust Gasses...(!).
About the only aspect of your Chain Sharpening which might be apparently improved, would be to pre- inspect the Chain and locate the MOST Damaged Cutter it contains, and use that one to set up the various Adjustments on the Machine...; so that when finished, ALL the Teeth will be the precise same length as the one which needed the most Metal removed.
It "wastes" metal from all the less-damaged Cutters - but having Cutters of varying lengths (often caused by trying to dress individual Teeth after Rock-Strikes...) generally leads to rough & jerky cutting, bogging the Saw in the Wood, and having the "Longer" Teeth pull the Cut off centre towards their side...
There's a LOT to thunk about, while pottering around with Chainsaws...
Such is Life,
Have a good one.
;-p
Ciao !
A bit late to reply but...
If you want a stubby rather universal bar, I recommend the Oregon 91, if you can find one.
The chains are easy to find, though the bar sometimes is not.
Most of the time a 14 or 16 inch bar is just silly to use. Unless most of what you're cutting is intended to be split.
how are you going to split that?
The whole USA was wondering all the time, who the hell is buying Chinese stuff ?!
But this unit is what I must have for my toes nails !
And probably for my teeth ? Dentist is expensive. Then I can go to the forest and bite trees down !
Chain saw sharpener for toe nails?? That's extreme! A normal person should only need the Harbor Freight side cutters for toe nails.