Nearly took out that pipe when you used the hole borer/digger, lucky you hit the cement really! Although if that post ever moves the pipe will probably break (unlikely, but if a car hits it or a tornado catches the sails...) It pays to know where utilities run!
You're so right Samuel! Even when you think you know what's under the ground when you are ready to dig, you can come upon a surprise pipe that a previous owner installed and the current owner didn't know about. We always try to be careful with the digger, but we did get lucky on this one. We've had other jobs where we weren't so lucky. Pro Tip: Always dig with caution!
I made the mistake of using 4x4’s for our attachment point. It’s really bending once it’s properly tightened. Now I’ve got to dig it up and install something stronger
Hi Kelly! Sorry for the super late response, we're better at setting posts than we are at responding to comments! We source our steel posts from local metal or fence supply companies. We recommend a schedule 40 steel, minimum 4" in diameter.
This job was a bit tricky. When we dug the hole, we couldn't go any deeper because the footing from the retaining wall was much wider than we thought. So we had to go with a shallower footing. To compensate, we made the footing wider and added rebar for extra support.
@@wholesaleshade Another option is to drill a hole in that concrete on the bottom the diameter of this big pipe, even if you get 6-10 inches, that would keep it there strong still and then pour the concrete into the big footing hole. Also, tilting it 5 degrees and maybe even putting opposite cables to the post to keep it tight.
Our custom shade sails are commercial grade and use some heavy-duty hardware. You could choose to stay with droopy sails, especially if you go with inexpensive sails that only last a few years, but commercial grade shade sails are not designed to move about in any kind of wind. They should be nice and tight when installed and should last 10-15 years. A shade sail that moves a lot means that hardware is rubbing at the corners. This can lead to a breakdown of the hardware and then the attachment point could come loose and then you have a corner of your sail with heavy hardware flapping about in the wind. This can be quite dangerous.
Wow! This is some heavy duty stuff!
It sure is!
Nearly took out that pipe when you used the hole borer/digger, lucky you hit the cement really! Although if that post ever moves the pipe will probably break (unlikely, but if a car hits it or a tornado catches the sails...) It pays to know where utilities run!
You're so right Samuel! Even when you think you know what's under the ground when you are ready to dig, you can come upon a surprise pipe that a previous owner installed and the current owner didn't know about. We always try to be careful with the digger, but we did get lucky on this one. We've had other jobs where we weren't so lucky.
Pro Tip: Always dig with caution!
I made the mistake of using 4x4’s for our attachment point.
It’s really bending once it’s properly tightened.
Now I’ve got to dig it up and install something stronger
Good luck with your post replacement project! I hope this video has been helpful for you.
What size (and wall thickness) pipe did you use for the new post?
Schedule-40
@@wholesaleshade Diameter?
@@garya2223 We recommend at least 4" diameter for a shade sail post. I believe this post was 5" due to the extended height.
@@wholesaleshade Great. Thanks!
@@garya2223 You're welcome!
Where do you get your metal posts?
Hi Kelly! Sorry for the super late response, we're better at setting posts than we are at responding to comments! We source our steel posts from local metal or fence supply companies. We recommend a schedule 40 steel, minimum 4" in diameter.
Where do you buy these heavy duty posts??
We source our posts from local metal or fencing supply companies.
"Make sure you have at least 1/3 of your post in the ground." Looks like they did more like 1/5th.
This job was a bit tricky. When we dug the hole, we couldn't go any deeper because the footing from the retaining wall was much wider than we thought. So we had to go with a shallower footing. To compensate, we made the footing wider and added rebar for extra support.
@@wholesaleshade Another option is to drill a hole in that concrete on the bottom the diameter of this big pipe, even if you get 6-10 inches, that would keep it there strong still and then pour the concrete into the big footing hole. Also, tilting it 5 degrees and maybe even putting opposite cables to the post to keep it tight.
You must live where it’s very windy....I’d would stay with the droop that’s some expensive shad billy
Our custom shade sails are commercial grade and use some heavy-duty hardware. You could choose to stay with droopy sails, especially if you go with inexpensive sails that only last a few years, but commercial grade shade sails are not designed to move about in any kind of wind. They should be nice and tight when installed and should last 10-15 years. A shade sail that moves a lot means that hardware is rubbing at the corners. This can lead to a breakdown of the hardware and then the attachment point could come loose and then you have a corner of your sail with heavy hardware flapping about in the wind. This can be quite dangerous.
Cheap HARBOR FREIGHT rackets no wonder.