Chucky (John Hertell) Blog about creation of the board - wordpress.hertell.nu/?p=537 A3660 Kit - amiga68k.com/?cat=64 Note: Yes, I spotted the hair on the soldering iron early on - it needed a shave ;) If you fit an 060 CPU you need to fit the regulator (don't bridge the IN and OUT pins like I did), and solder the 1 ohm link between the centre pad and the 060 position to the right of the CPU socket. When I said I was balanced on an Acorn Electron - I meant the Camera was - not the board being heated ;)
For the sockets Kapton tape and heat from behind. Just ignore comments about the "correct" way to do things. There are often more than one way to do things. I was a component level service engineer for Acorn doing BBC model B, Master and onto the Archimedes A3xx, A4xx, A5xx, A3000 and a little longer. I still use a soldering iron for almost all SMD work. What you COULD do is get a PRE heater and heat the whole board to 20-30 degrees below the point where the sockets are affected. With that done the ground planes etc have much less or no effect. You would then probably be able to use a much lower temperature on your hot air just to tip it to the point where the solder melts. but as I said there are more than one way to do things and Kapton tape plus heating from the rear is a good way. I might well show some of these techniques on my own channel at some point. Anyway for someone who I have watched going through the whole learning process over the years you are doing very well. I still have less than 100 subs but maybe we could collaborate at some point with a teaching video on some of these points. Good luck in the future. Darren
I'm so happy for you, that in the end everything got working. I know how frustrating it is, if things doesn't work after spending hours of hours hard work into it. Well done gadget.
Tip for saving a lot of time soldering those SMD resistors/caps: Add solder to one pad row, use hooked tweezers and hold/place component while re-heating the soldered pad. When done with attaching the components solder the other row, then touch up the first row if needed. Much faster and usually don't need the hot-air reflow and avoids tombstones completely. Nice results though, very well done SMD work.
What an amazing video. Extremely fiddly and time consuming, but very well done Chris. Really appreciate all your hard work and all your time you put into it for your videos for us to enjoy. Doom run extremely well on it, top work.
The best way I've found to set those sockets is to heat the board from below. Add some flux to the pins of the socket for good wetting. So long as you don't leave the board on the heat after you set the socket in place it doesn't melt much.
I like to add Kapton tape to the threw hole parts so I don't drool solder into the holes ahead if time. then I use a large wide tip and flux to solder all the pins on one side of surface mount part at a time.
27:00 A nano soldering iron with 0.1-0.8mm tips would be great for this. I recently bought JBC NASE-2C rework station, it's amazing. Hot tweezers are unbelieveable, they don't care about ground planes, thermal laws and physics in general, they just desolder any cap in 2-3 seconds. I was like "WTF?!" when I used them first time. JBC is expensive but worth it, performance is unbelieveably better compared to cheap chinese stations I was using before.
Nice video and grate soldering, you earned a new subscriber! I bought the same sockets for a PCI card I had to swap the ROM on and yea the corners where a bit of a pita. I dont own an AMIGA, did recap a A500 and did some corrosion repair on it for a friend not long ago so I got to boot that up with all sorts of adons, USB, VGA support etc etc plus a CPU upgrade card. It lives in one of those newly made A1500 checkmate cases now from the update I got.
Exelent soldering work. If I'd have tried assenmbling that, I would have screwed up the first IC socket, got realy frustrated and thrown the whole lot in the bin. LOL. I admire your patience.
10:30 when the solder spikes like that, it might mean that your iron is a little bit hot. Try lowering the temperature by 10 or 20 degrees C. For small SMD parts, a somewhat cooler iron can be beneficial to the quality of the soldering job.
Yes, that's the issue! After heating a point a few times like I did at that point in the video, the small amount of flux that was in the solder has burned away!
Solder paste, I find, is really meant for BGA soldering. If you've got a board pre-heater, it makes the stuff more bearable...but it's really tough to work with.
Solder paste is meant for all in-direct soldering not really just BGAs. If you don't use the really cheap "mechanic" stuff and get a decent brand and keep it fresh it's a lot easier to solder boards like this with paste. You could dab all of the passives pads with a toothpick, drop the parts on and then drop the board on a hot plate and have them all soldered.
@@donpalmera Also, keep it in the paste in the fridge when you're not using it. Give it quite a while to come up to room temp when you remove it from the fridge though or else it'll be just as painful to work with as crusty old paste.
@@AnonyDave Chipquik has some stuff that is ok to keep at room temp and is meant to last longer. I keep it on my desk for a few months and it's ok, a little bit more than that and it's unusable.
I think maybe your hot air is too hot. You can see that from how the case on the tantalum capacitor got discoloured. My guess is you have the heat turned up because you can't heat up the pad to the solder melting point before the ground plane etc suck away the heat otherwise.. IMHO you want a preheater for a board like that. Then you can lower the temp at the hot air nozzle.
@@GadgetUK164 a bigger nozzle might help too. A preheater also prevents the pcb from warping due to hotspotting. I think the sockets are made of some type of nylon. It can take some heat but not beyond 250 degrees C I think. It becomes quite soft/liquid at that point. I wonder why the designer didn't just use a gal package that doesn't require a socket. I guess not everyone owns an smd rework station. But a great job nonetheles!
Have you tried taking the nozzle off the hot air gun? I've found this helps to stop things dancing around because there is not such a concentrated jet of air. Also you can then hold the gun a bit further away and just flood the area with hot air and eventually it will reflow without blasting the socket close up, much more like a real reflow oven would do. Backstory: I recently removed a socket like this from a board and yep, with a nozzle it started to melt pretty quickly, but without the nozzle I was able to remove it more or less perfectly.
I'm almost done with mine - my parts were sourced from mouser ;) - the original bom isn't 100% complete either so it took 2-3 orders. I found that the gal's - the cheaper programmers honestly have a rough time with those. I ended up getting a new programmer (T56) which handled the atmel/microchip equivalents of the Lattice parts no problem. C400 btw is a reset circuit. Question for C501 - the bom doesn't actually specify the type of capacitor - is it supposed to be polarized? Oh Edit: The big difference between the 1.0 and the rev 1.1 is the addition of a surface mount pad for the Dallas delay line (yours has a through hole part which are really kind hard to find anymore), and the addition of another pad for an alternate flip/flop (u101).
Waw beautiful job. Which i was as good in soldering as you. I’ve heard of John Hertell, i believe he made some A1200 boards as well. Seen him selling stuff on eBaY
If your needing extra memory for demos. You should be able to 'double mouse button hold' at reboot and select 'Boot No Startup Sequence'. Then at the Shell type Setpatch. You then have to navigate to the demo folders via Shell/CLI just like those MS-DOS lovers ;) I have had to relearn alot of Amiga-DOS commands!
Yes, you could! However, ceramic caps behave differently to wet type electrolytics (that's why they never fitted ceramics from factory). Ceramics (even back then) would be cheaper, but their filtering characteristics are different and they can suffer from piezo electric type effect where vibrations can affect them. Temperature affects them differently too. Ceramics also have a failure mode where they can short - like tantalums.
Its easy with hindsight but i would have fitted those brown sockets first, applying heat from the back of the board, its how i do nintendo switch ribbon connectors. I also dont think they are bad the way you have done it, cutting out the middle and solderong manually. Very good.
Only a quarter of a way through the vid. The sockets... Tin the pads, reflux pads, flow hot air from the underside. Need to dial in about 380 on temp. When solder melts, place socket on. Forget even touching them with an iron or a heatgun from the top. Good vid(what ive seen anyway)!
Yes, I am not sure if you can get 75Mhz out of it though... You of course would need to make sure the CPU gets 3.3v (rather than the way I wired the 5v straight across in this video for an 040).
"Heat it up to 420C"... Hell yeah... :-) "A factory where all the employees have been drinking special brew"... They did raise the heat to 420C ya know.... :-)
Wow those socketed ICs look a right pain? I can't see how you are supposed to solder those on if the plastic in the PLCC melts so easily. Very nice piece of work at the end though. I hope you can get a case soon. I keep looking for a 3000 but they have just gone silly prices.
I suspect if you have good solder paste with a lower melting point than the 60/40 solder I use, coupled with a lower air flow and reduced temperature, it might be possible! I think the other key is having an underboard heating plate to get the board hotter. That of course may mean you have to do the underside components last.
@@GadgetUK164 Did Stephen Leary or Chucky have any guidance on how you should approach it? I still think even though it was a pain you did a great job in the end even if it was a bit of a slog.
@@rasz Thanks for the info, I never understood how you could use an oven as surely that would heat all the other components up? NB: I am like Gadget UK, I am always repairing an existing board not starting from scratch building a new board.
@@Wallygjs you heat all the components, but the critical part (TAL zone) takes only up to ~90 seconds at reflow temperature depending on the profile. All the components meant for reflow soldering are rated for it.
very nice work indeed! I'm inspired now to get my own A4000 back running. don't have your skills with soldering iron tho. i hope its just replacing the caps on mobo that's needed. i get black screen no ide act. with A3630 cpu and also black screen with A3640 cpu board. on my channel you will see what was done before it crashed.
Could you make a small video please mentioning the old tf530 4Meg RAM hack? And yes, I know there is the tf534. It's just that ithe tf530 4meg-Hack is one of those "old wisdom" (learning how it works) topics from the (amiga GNU) community and the tf530 was so well documented by fans (better than the tf534) not only in videos but in blogs fans wrote on it. And people still have unbuilt boards (some also with an FPU awaiting homebrew to be written). You'd sum it up well because you have a way of saying things neatly. So basically my request is if you could please mention what firmware of other software is needed as in how to do changes to the CPLD and some additional wires. Pin 6 in 16 bit srams is chip select, (address line in 8 bit tsop44 srams). Bypassing the address line to cpld and connecting pin 6 on srams to vcc makes the board be able to test chip ram ok.
It would need a firmware change I think - firstly for the autoconfig, to respond with double the amount of RAM, then its a case of mounting it (piggy back probably), and dealing with the OE signal (probably a wire from the CPLD).
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for reply! It was done a few times by some _(e.g. in the exxos forum, and I can link a mention of it to you)_ and also by people who would mention it in the TF530 YT livestreams. It is also mentioned on amiga forums here and there. If you cannot recall how to do it, please give it a mention in a video and ask for the audience to tell you a reminder on how it is done (in a comment or whatever). There are benefits to hacking the tf530 (instead of merely just using a tf534 or other board) such as being able to use static RAM (a preference) and of course the FPU which is 'controversial' - lol _(and I'm in favour of FPU, in case you are wondering)._ The Tf530 4Meg hack was one of the coolest things ever, and it worked with the trapdoor expansion and even on a 2Meg a500plus thereby giving 6meg.
Nice work Gadget. I have 2 of these cards running rev 5 060's clocked @66MHz with a small CPU fan and they will run all day reliably. To speed up the machine download the latest MMULibs from aminet and run the installer. It will copy all the files into the right directories and on one of the installer screens it will show lots of check boxes you can check them all or just MuFastrom. IT will copy all the programs to sys:MuTools dir, mmu.library and 680xx.library files to LIBS:, once complete add this to your SS after setpatch and CPU this will copy KS roms into fastram. Example below.... C:SetPatch QUIET C:CPU CHECKINSTALL ;#MuFastRom: MapRom to FastRAM SYS:MuTools/MuFastRom PROTECT ON
With an 040 I wouldnt say its near useless, so many games and software run super well on this. But, with an 060 - yes, you want dedicated local fast RAM for sure, or you end up bottlenecked.
I saw someone that had solder that melts at 150 degrees C, he tinned all the pads then put the sockets on and popped it in a pre-heated oven for a very short time. But as you say, who knows if this type of sensitive plastic socket will even play nice at 150 and not melt.
Chucky (John Hertell) Blog about creation of the board - wordpress.hertell.nu/?p=537
A3660 Kit - amiga68k.com/?cat=64
Note: Yes, I spotted the hair on the soldering iron early on - it needed a shave ;) If you fit an 060 CPU you need to fit the regulator (don't bridge the IN and OUT pins like I did), and solder the 1 ohm link between the centre pad and the 060 position to the right of the CPU socket. When I said I was balanced on an Acorn Electron - I meant the Camera was - not the board being heated ;)
I wondered. I was beginning to think that Electrons don't get any respect. :)
For the sockets Kapton tape and heat from behind. Just ignore comments about the "correct" way to do things. There are often more than one way to do things. I was a component level service engineer for Acorn doing BBC model B, Master and onto the Archimedes A3xx, A4xx, A5xx, A3000 and a little longer. I still use a soldering iron for almost all SMD work. What you COULD do is get a PRE heater and heat the whole board to 20-30 degrees below the point where the sockets are affected. With that done the ground planes etc have much less or no effect. You would then probably be able to use a much lower temperature on your hot air just to tip it to the point where the solder melts. but as I said there are more than one way to do things and Kapton tape plus heating from the rear is a good way. I might well show some of these techniques on my own channel at some point. Anyway for someone who I have watched going through the whole learning process over the years you are doing very well. I still have less than 100 subs but maybe we could collaborate at some point with a teaching video on some of these points. Good luck in the future. Darren
I'm so happy for you, that in the end everything got working. I know how frustrating it is, if things doesn't work after spending hours of hours hard work into it. Well done gadget.
Yes! Thank you! =D
I never get bored of Your Videos!! Your Videos are Very Interesting and Helpful for everybody who like Amiga👍
Thank you so much 😀
24:25 heat from the back of the board!! works every time!
The other way to do it is with paste/stencil and hot air around 120-150 deg - or cut the bases out and use a soldering iron (which is what I did).
Great surface mount soldering, thanks for posting!
Thanks Adam =D
Tip for saving a lot of time soldering those SMD resistors/caps: Add solder to one pad row, use hooked tweezers and hold/place component while re-heating the soldered pad. When done with attaching the components solder the other row, then touch up the first row if needed. Much faster and usually don't need the hot-air reflow and avoids tombstones completely. Nice results though, very well done SMD work.
Top job as always :) I miss my A500 after watching these video's! I'll never forget picking that up Christmas '89 (I think!).
What an amazing video. Extremely fiddly and time consuming, but very well done Chris. Really appreciate all your hard work and all your time you put into it for your videos for us to enjoy. Doom run extremely well on it, top work.
Thanks Jamie =D Are you doing a video tonight or perhaps next Friday?
@@GadgetUK164 im doing my first premiere vid. Im too warn out to stream. First early shift week done after 5 weeks off.
I admire you for being able to do this job so well
Thanks, very much appreciated =D
The best way I've found to set those sockets is to heat the board from below. Add some flux to the pins of the socket for good wetting. So long as you don't leave the board on the heat after you set the socket in place it doesn't melt much.
That's a great idea!
I like to add Kapton tape to the threw hole parts so I don't drool solder into the holes ahead if time. then I use a large wide tip and flux to solder all the pins on one side of surface mount part at a time.
27:00 A nano soldering iron with 0.1-0.8mm tips would be great for this. I recently bought JBC NASE-2C rework station, it's amazing. Hot tweezers are unbelieveable, they don't care about ground planes, thermal laws and physics in general, they just desolder any cap in 2-3 seconds. I was like "WTF?!" when I used them first time. JBC is expensive but worth it, performance is unbelieveably better compared to cheap chinese stations I was using before.
That Kit is impressive - Brilliant
Nice video and grate soldering, you earned a new subscriber!
I bought the same sockets for a PCI card I had to swap the ROM on and yea the corners where a bit of a pita.
I dont own an AMIGA, did recap a A500 and did some corrosion repair on it for a friend not long ago so I got to boot that up with all sorts of adons, USB, VGA support etc etc plus a CPU upgrade card.
It lives in one of those newly made A1500 checkmate cases now from the update I got.
Thanks for the sub! =D
Exelent soldering work. If I'd have tried assenmbling that, I would have screwed up the first IC socket, got realy frustrated and thrown the whole lot in the bin. LOL. I admire your patience.
Haha, thanks =D
10:30 when the solder spikes like that, it might mean that your iron is a little bit hot. Try lowering the temperature by 10 or 20 degrees C. For small SMD parts, a somewhat cooler iron can be beneficial to the quality of the soldering job.
I would say more flux.
Yes, that's the issue! After heating a point a few times like I did at that point in the video, the small amount of flux that was in the solder has burned away!
Solder paste, I find, is really meant for BGA soldering. If you've got a board pre-heater, it makes the stuff more bearable...but it's really tough to work with.
Solder paste is meant for all in-direct soldering not really just BGAs. If you don't use the really cheap "mechanic" stuff and get a decent brand and keep it fresh it's a lot easier to solder boards like this with paste. You could dab all of the passives pads with a toothpick, drop the parts on and then drop the board on a hot plate and have them all soldered.
@@donpalmera Also, keep it in the paste in the fridge when you're not using it. Give it quite a while to come up to room temp when you remove it from the fridge though or else it'll be just as painful to work with as crusty old paste.
@@AnonyDave Chipquik has some stuff that is ok to keep at room temp and is meant to last longer. I keep it on my desk for a few months and it's ok, a little bit more than that and it's unusable.
I think maybe your hot air is too hot. You can see that from how the case on the tantalum capacitor got discoloured.
My guess is you have the heat turned up because you can't heat up the pad to the solder melting point before the ground plane etc suck away the heat otherwise..
IMHO you want a preheater for a board like that. Then you can lower the temp at the hot air nozzle.
Yes, I had the temp a little high at that point! But for the other stuff it was OK!
@@GadgetUK164 a bigger nozzle might help too. A preheater also prevents the pcb from warping due to hotspotting. I think the sockets are made of some type of nylon. It can take some heat but not beyond 250 degrees C I think. It becomes quite soft/liquid at that point. I wonder why the designer didn't just use a gal package that doesn't require a socket. I guess not everyone owns an smd rework station. But a great job nonetheles!
Have you tried taking the nozzle off the hot air gun? I've found this helps to stop things dancing around because there is not such a concentrated jet of air.
Also you can then hold the gun a bit further away and just flood the area with hot air and eventually it will reflow without blasting the socket close up, much more like a real reflow oven would do.
Backstory: I recently removed a socket like this from a board and yep, with a nozzle it started to melt pretty quickly, but without the nozzle I was able to remove it more or less perfectly.
Sweet... Card.. Well done..
I'm almost done with mine - my parts were sourced from mouser ;) - the original bom isn't 100% complete either so it took 2-3 orders. I found that the gal's - the cheaper programmers honestly have a rough time with those. I ended up getting a new programmer (T56) which handled the atmel/microchip equivalents of the Lattice parts no problem.
C400 btw is a reset circuit.
Question for C501 - the bom doesn't actually specify the type of capacitor - is it supposed to be polarized?
Oh Edit: The big difference between the 1.0 and the rev 1.1 is the addition of a surface mount pad for the Dallas delay line (yours has a through hole part which are really kind hard to find anymore), and the addition of another pad for an alternate flip/flop (u101).
20 limited edition PCBs was made.. given to people like Dave Haynie etc. :)
It was sitting in my drawer never going to be built so gave to Chris to assemble :)
@@TerribleFire being lazy eh?
@@TerribleFire Very much appreciated!!!
@@ChuckyGang 🤣🤣🤣
@@ChuckyGang I'm almost as lazy as you
Nice change of pace, making rather than repairing, turned out great. ;)
Thanks 👍
Great video mate, keep it up.
Thanks =D
I tend to pretin one pad, move in the component with tweezers and then proceed to solder the rest of the pads after that first tack has solidified.
Waw beautiful job. Which i was as good in soldering as you. I’ve heard of John Hertell, i believe he made some A1200 boards as well. Seen him selling stuff on eBaY
If your needing extra memory for demos. You should be able to 'double mouse button hold' at reboot and select 'Boot No Startup Sequence'. Then at the Shell type Setpatch. You then have to navigate to the demo folders via Shell/CLI just like those MS-DOS lovers ;)
I have had to relearn alot of Amiga-DOS commands!
Thanks =D I did exactly that and it worked! =D
Brilliant work well done Gadget, what type of solder are you using? lead free solder?
60/40 leaded solder containing flux core.
I'm gonna go broke doing all of these commodore board projects. :-)
Nice job mate even if the plc sockets were a pain in the hoop :)
Hope Stephen is doing well btw.
now we need a 060 1200 board
Ah bollox, I just forked out for a C64 kit and now I'll have to buy an Amiga one too!
Haha =D
Nice work chris enjoyed watching that did you try that other maprom software that comes with amiga workbench 3.1.4 ?
Not yet! =D
For those electrolytics could you use non polarized ceramic caps?
Yes, you could! However, ceramic caps behave differently to wet type electrolytics (that's why they never fitted ceramics from factory). Ceramics (even back then) would be cheaper, but their filtering characteristics are different and they can suffer from piezo electric type effect where vibrations can affect them. Temperature affects them differently too. Ceramics also have a failure mode where they can short - like tantalums.
Bloody intense this..... but i only get an hour for me lunch....
Amiga...... still not convinced....
N x
Its easy with hindsight but i would have fitted those brown sockets first, applying heat from the back of the board, its how i do nintendo switch ribbon connectors.
I also dont think they are bad the way you have done it, cutting out the middle and solderong manually.
Very good.
Good idea! Thanks =D
Only a quarter of a way through the vid. The sockets... Tin the pads, reflux pads, flow hot air from the underside. Need to dial in about 380 on temp. When solder melts, place socket on. Forget even touching them with an iron or a heatgun from the top. Good vid(what ive seen anyway)!
I hope it works first time, love your videos
Aw damn! i need one!
Can the MC68EC060RC75 work in the a3660?
Yes, I am not sure if you can get 75Mhz out of it though... You of course would need to make sure the CPU gets 3.3v (rather than the way I wired the 5v straight across in this video for an 040).
"Heat it up to 420C"...
Hell yeah... :-)
"A factory where all the employees have been drinking special brew"...
They did raise the heat to 420C ya know.... :-)
thank fuggin christ. i have been looking at these boards for an A4000t (on ebay) i just got, and couldnt find squat on assembling one.
Hehe =D They are lovely boards! But do take some time to assemble =/
Wow those socketed ICs look a right pain? I can't see how you are supposed to solder those on if the plastic in the PLCC melts so easily. Very nice piece of work at the end though. I hope you can get a case soon. I keep looking for a 3000 but they have just gone silly prices.
I suspect if you have good solder paste with a lower melting point than the 60/40 solder I use, coupled with a lower air flow and reduced temperature, it might be possible! I think the other key is having an underboard heating plate to get the board hotter. That of course may mean you have to do the underside components last.
@@GadgetUK164 Did Stephen Leary or Chucky have any guidance on how you should approach it? I still think even though it was a pain you did a great job in the end even if it was a bit of a slog.
Plastic melting point is a good amount (like 10-30C) higher than solder. All you need is temp controlled oven, or a vapor chamber.
@@rasz Thanks for the info, I never understood how you could use an oven as surely that would heat all the other components up? NB: I am like Gadget UK, I am always repairing an existing board not starting from scratch building a new board.
@@Wallygjs you heat all the components, but the critical part (TAL zone) takes only up to ~90 seconds at reflow temperature depending on the profile. All the components meant for reflow soldering are rated for it.
I have one of these kits but the soldering required is beyond my skill level. Can you recommend anyone who’d build it for me?
Probably Chucky or AlenPPC on amibay!
They need to make the blizzard vision graphics card and the accelerator card to go with it.
very nice work indeed! I'm inspired now to get my own A4000 back running. don't have your skills with soldering iron tho. i hope its just replacing the caps on mobo that's needed. i get black screen no ide act. with A3630 cpu and also black screen with A3640 cpu board. on my channel you will see what was done before it crashed.
Could you make a small video please mentioning the old tf530 4Meg RAM hack? And yes, I know there is the tf534. It's just that ithe tf530 4meg-Hack is one of those "old wisdom" (learning how it works) topics from the (amiga GNU) community and the tf530 was so well documented by fans (better than the tf534) not only in videos but in blogs fans wrote on it. And people still have unbuilt boards (some also with an FPU awaiting homebrew to be written). You'd sum it up well because you have a way of saying things neatly. So basically my request is if you could please mention what firmware of other software is needed as in how to do changes to the CPLD and some additional wires. Pin 6 in 16 bit srams is chip select, (address line in 8 bit tsop44 srams). Bypassing the address line to cpld and connecting pin 6 on srams to vcc makes the board be able to test chip ram ok.
It would need a firmware change I think - firstly for the autoconfig, to respond with double the amount of RAM, then its a case of mounting it (piggy back probably), and dealing with the OE signal (probably a wire from the CPLD).
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks for reply! It was done a few times by some _(e.g. in the exxos forum, and I can link a mention of it to you)_ and also by people who would mention it in the TF530 YT livestreams. It is also mentioned on amiga forums here and there. If you cannot recall how to do it, please give it a mention in a video and ask for the audience to tell you a reminder on how it is done (in a comment or whatever). There are benefits to hacking the tf530 (instead of merely just using a tf534 or other board) such as being able to use static RAM (a preference) and of course the FPU which is 'controversial' - lol _(and I'm in favour of FPU, in case you are wondering)._ The Tf530 4Meg hack was one of the coolest things ever, and it worked with the trapdoor expansion and even on a 2Meg a500plus thereby giving 6meg.
Pro job
Heat the board from underneath.
Nice work Gadget. I have 2 of these cards running rev 5 060's clocked @66MHz with a small CPU fan and they will run all day reliably. To speed up the machine download the latest MMULibs from aminet and run the installer. It will copy all the files into the right directories and on one of the installer screens it will show lots of check boxes you can check them all or just MuFastrom. IT will copy all the programs to sys:MuTools dir, mmu.library and 680xx.library files to LIBS:, once complete add this to your SS after setpatch and CPU this will copy KS roms into fastram. Example below....
C:SetPatch QUIET
C:CPU CHECKINSTALL
;#MuFastRom: MapRom to FastRAM
SYS:MuTools/MuFastRom PROTECT ON
2 =O You are spoiled lol =D I did exactly what you suggested and that demo ran fine =D Thanks!
A nice build, but alas a near useless 060 board without a dedicated memory controller.
With an 040 I wouldnt say its near useless, so many games and software run super well on this. But, with an 060 - yes, you want dedicated local fast RAM for sure, or you end up bottlenecked.
I saw someone that had solder that melts at 150 degrees C, he tinned all the pads then put the sockets on and popped it in a pre-heated oven for a very short time. But as you say, who knows if this type of sensitive plastic socket will even play nice at 150 and not melt.