Thanx Tom, I just ordered Okume veener from one of your suppliers. Ready to try my first veener project as you got me hooked. Oh, try putting the walnut block in vise , end grain to ceiling, apply glue to end grain and scrape holding sharp chisel vertical to end grain to get grain filler. Apply to void diect from chisel.
Hi Tom and Kris sorry I missed the live show today but it was a great time tonight I am in awe at the knowledge and dedication to the show, and the wealth of information that is given to us. Great job every week, I know that can be trying at times,so thank you for your time and efforts. Mike
Thank you Mike! I really appreciate that. Like everything, you have your ebbs and flows, highs and lows. We love doing this and we really enjoy the community that has grown. And at the same time we are thinking about how we can be most effective and not grow stale. So I do appreciate you saying that! Thanks for being here with us! 👍😎
Addendum to below comment. One of your veneer suppliers, Certainly Wood" exceeded my expectaions of service with the quality of , ease of site use , ordering, and quik delivery of well packaged material. I've used them 2 times now and give thumbs up. Your viewers won't be dissappointed dealing with this fine company. PS- I did pay for the product(s) and was not a freebie from Certainly Wood.
I am repairing a vanity from the 30's and use Titebond Hide Glue and love it. I have had to correct a mistake and hide glue lets me lift the veneer off. I am very new to veneering so do make mistakes. I noticed you hammered the veneer but did not put the hide glue veneer in a press.
Yes Jim. I agree, hide glue has great qualities, especially for furniture repair. Using the hot type takes some getting used to and has its challenges on large panels especially since it’s open time is so short. No need to press hide glue when hammer veneering, the “hammering” is enough to press it down to a vacuum like seal and it grabs quickly once it’s down. Thanks for watching!
Hi Tom, I missed the live session of this Shop Night Live, I just got done watching, learned a lot and enjoyed it very much it looks like a lot of fun. Thank you for researching, and experimenting the different methods you learned, and demonstrating the process. Although, I need to do it for myself in order to get the experience, but you made it a lot easier, thank you again, see you next week.
Schlacker!!! lol just kidding. Hey thanks for the lowdown on the Vaneers and a hidden bonus was the Hide glue lesson and the then you busted out the Schlack and I tried that a few times earlier in the year trying to learn about finishes for guitars and as you know there is a lot of BS out there and the days of the people knowing what they use to know at say a paint department as now they don't know very much these days> But i use to know where the really good people worked when I need a perfect matich or have it look faded for touch ups, Anyway, so you mixed up your Schlack which makes me thinik that it's an old time option. I'm looking forward to using the toung oit or the Dutch Rub. God I hope that's what they call it and not some thing my buddies may be talking about. lol I will watch more. Dyes are the other thing I want to learn more about. See you 'round
Thanks, I appreciate your enthusiasm for the craft…comes right off the page! I’m like you, always wanted to find the best sources, that’s why my wife and I moved to NC in 1990 just so I could apprentice and work with P.A. “Pug” Moore in Rocky Mount. Happiest days of my life in a shop, although I’m still pretty happy😎. If you’re interested you can get more of the story, and photos, and see the list of info I share there to help people move to the next level wherever they are…and have some fun along the way. The website is epicwoodworking.com, I think you’ll like what you find, and you won’t have to move to NC! 😎👍
I always use my Toothing plane when I’m veneering as it’s meant to flatten the service I then size the surface with weak size and denib and it’s ready for veneering
Thanks Tim. Most times I’m veneering over a stable and already flat ply or MDF, so I usually scuff with 150 grit but no toothing. I assume you are referring to only situations with Hide glue? Thanks for watching!👍
neat and detailed explanation - tom- i wanted to know at the end the finishing - how do folks achieve gloss on the veeneer ? what is the chemical used to attain the final gloss ?
I missed the live show but was able to catch it this weekend and as always it was great. Maybe it was the sound system but Tom appeared a bit nasally! I hope he is not under the weather and if he is I hope he gets better soon.
Enjoyed this episode very much. Did want to ask about sanding the veneered surface after the glue has dried. Given that the veneer is so thin, how do you keep from sanding through it especially when using a ROS with 150 grit? Thanks.
Thanks Jack! 150 is fine to begin with (I’ve known veneer guys who started with 120 but the most coarse I’m comfortable with to start is 150, followed by 220. 1/42 of an inch in a wild “knot hard” swirling figure such as a burl is a lot more durable than you are imagining. So it depends on the material and how long you sand on it. 👍
The colour from Padauk gets everywhere; even the dust seems to stain everything it touches! The glorious red colour doesnt last though - it goes to brown in a few weeks
For a bowed surface, new construction, I would usually have made a form to create the bow using a lamination technique which I have shared a number of times, and most recently during the jewelry box course. I would simply apply the burl using the same press and form. If it’s not new construction and more of a repair, usually I would use the hammer veneer technique in combination with hide glue. Hope that helps! 👍
Thanx Tom, I just ordered Okume veener from one of your suppliers. Ready to try my first veener project as you got me hooked. Oh, try putting the walnut block in vise , end grain to ceiling, apply glue to end grain and scrape holding sharp chisel vertical to end grain to get grain filler. Apply to void diect from chisel.
Hi Tom and Kris sorry I missed the live show today but it was a great time tonight I am in awe at the knowledge and dedication to the show, and the wealth of information that is given to us. Great job every week, I know that can be trying at times,so thank you for your time and efforts. Mike
Thank you Mike! I really appreciate that. Like everything, you have your ebbs and flows, highs and lows. We love doing this and we really enjoy the community that has grown. And at the same time we are thinking about how we can be most effective and not grow stale. So I do appreciate you saying that! Thanks for being here with us! 👍😎
Thanks Tom. I enjoy all of your videos but really enjoy the veneering and shaping of wood the most.
Thank you and thanks for watching! 👍😎
Addendum to below comment. One of your veneer suppliers, Certainly Wood" exceeded my expectaions of service with the quality of , ease of site use , ordering, and quik delivery of well packaged material. I've used them 2 times now and give thumbs up. Your viewers won't be dissappointed dealing with this fine company. PS- I did pay for the product(s) and was not a freebie from Certainly Wood.
I am repairing a vanity from the 30's and use Titebond Hide Glue and love it. I have had to correct a mistake and hide glue lets me lift the veneer off. I am very new to veneering so do make mistakes. I noticed you hammered the veneer but did not put the hide glue veneer in a press.
Yes Jim. I agree, hide glue has great qualities, especially for furniture repair. Using the hot type takes some getting used to and has its challenges on large panels especially since it’s open time is so short. No need to press hide glue when hammer veneering, the “hammering” is enough to press it down to a vacuum like seal and it grabs quickly once it’s down. Thanks for watching!
Hi Tom, I missed the live session of this Shop Night Live, I just got done watching, learned a lot and enjoyed it very much it looks like a lot of fun. Thank you for researching, and experimenting the different methods you learned, and demonstrating the process. Although, I need to do it for myself in order to get the experience, but you made it a lot easier, thank you again, see you next week.
Thanks Steve! I never get tired of learning new ways of doing things, and I’m glad you enjoy these “explorations!” 😎👍
Wow! This was a fabulous session! Thank you, Tom and Kris.
Thanks Drew, so glad you enjoyed it! 👍😎
Schlacker!!! lol just kidding. Hey thanks for the lowdown on the Vaneers and a hidden bonus was the Hide glue lesson and the then you busted out the Schlack and I tried that a few times earlier in the year trying to learn about finishes for guitars and as you know there is a lot of BS out there and the days of the people knowing what they use to know at say a paint department as now they don't know very much these days> But i use to know where the really good people worked when I need a perfect matich or have it look faded for touch ups, Anyway, so you mixed up your Schlack which makes me thinik that it's an old time option. I'm looking forward to using the toung oit or the Dutch Rub. God I hope that's what they call it and not some thing my buddies may be talking about. lol I will watch more. Dyes are the other thing I want to learn more about. See you 'round
Thanks, I appreciate your enthusiasm for the craft…comes right off the page! I’m like you, always wanted to find the best sources, that’s why my wife and I moved to NC in 1990 just so I could apprentice and work with P.A. “Pug” Moore in Rocky Mount. Happiest days of my life in a shop, although I’m still pretty happy😎. If you’re interested you can get more of the story, and photos, and see the list of info I share there to help people move to the next level wherever they are…and have some fun along the way. The website is epicwoodworking.com, I think you’ll like what you find, and you won’t have to move to NC! 😎👍
Great show, just what I needed to learn to finish a walnut burl desk. Keep up the great content.
Thanks Jack, I’m planning on it! 👍
Thank you very much. I learned a lot from this episode.
I always use my Toothing plane when I’m veneering as it’s meant to flatten the service I then size the surface with weak size and denib and it’s ready for veneering
Thanks Tim. Most times I’m veneering over a stable and already flat ply or MDF, so I usually scuff with 150 grit but no toothing. I assume you are referring to only situations with Hide glue?
Thanks for watching!👍
Tip: you can iron the veneer after applying the softener (wait a few min for it to absorb and not look shiny)! It works well and quickly!
Thanks Golda, I have never heard of that method, I will definitely give it a try! 👍😎
neat and detailed explanation - tom- i wanted to know at the end the finishing - how do folks achieve gloss on the veeneer ? what is the chemical used to attain the final gloss ?
Missed it as well but enjoying the veneering topic...cheers rr Normndy, Fra.
Awesome, thanks Richard!
Unibond One is an excellent choice for veneer work. It is easy to apply and dries rock hard. Excellent for bent laminations and curved work.
Yes, agreed! I may have mentioned that along the way, or at least meant to if I didn’t 😎 Thanks!👍
I missed the live show but was able to catch it this weekend and as always it was great. Maybe it was the sound system but Tom appeared a bit nasally! I hope he is not under the weather and if he is I hope he gets better soon.
Thanks Tom! Yes, that was in my voice…not sick, just tired from a loud long day before with my nephews for their bachelors outing.
Thanks! 😎👍
Enjoyed this episode very much. Did want to ask about sanding the veneered surface after the glue has dried. Given that the veneer is so thin, how do you keep from sanding through it especially when using a ROS with 150 grit? Thanks.
Thanks Jack! 150 is fine to begin with (I’ve known veneer guys who started with 120 but the most coarse I’m comfortable with to start is 150, followed by 220.
1/42 of an inch in a wild “knot hard” swirling figure such as a burl is a lot more durable than you are imagining. So it depends on the material and how long you sand on it. 👍
great episode as always!
Thanks Josh! 👍
The colour from Padauk gets everywhere; even the dust seems to stain everything it touches! The glorious red colour doesnt last though - it goes to brown in a few weeks
Would liquid hide glue also work as a wood putty/grain filler?
Learned a lot
Thx !!!!
Brave Man to sand it like this
really great tips, thank you.
Thank you!
What about a bowed surface application or repair
For a bowed surface, new construction, I would usually have made a form to create the bow using a lamination technique which I have shared a number of times, and most recently during the jewelry box course. I would simply apply the burl using the same press and form.
If it’s not new construction and more of a repair, usually I would use the hammer veneer technique in combination with hide glue. Hope that helps! 👍
I wonder if we could get to the point a bit faster. Remember the title please.
Ladies hot wax hair removal kit is much cheaper then a special veneer pot.
Yes, so I’ve heard…but not that exact thing 😎 Thanks!
Sorry but you talk too much.