Very unusual outcome from the different bulbs. Just goes to show that the manufacturers figures are skewed in their own favour and that all results must be verified. The majority of people, including myself, would not have thought to question the ratings as advertised. it really is an eye opener !!
I'm not 100% sure of the meter you're using, but there is a difference between apparent power versus true power. In a purely resistive load (no inductance or capacitance) the incandescent bulb reflects correctly because electrical resistance turns into heat, which turns into light, so your meter reads correctly. The Fluorescent bulb has to have the equivalent of a transformer or inductive element, because it needs to ignite the gas, and then it glows. So the wattmeter has to capture the inductive function of the circuit. The reason the number didn't go down after you kept it going for a while is that it never measured the inductive component of power in the first place, and therefore, the number looks the same after you kept the bulb on for a while The LED bulb I don't know the answer to that one. In other words, Watts is volts times amps, but only in a purely resistance-based circuit but that's not true once capacitance or inductance is introduced.. Here's a link explaining how a Wattmeter apparent power versus true power: www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/chpt-11/true-reactive-and-apparent-power/
Yep, these cheap watt meters evidently multiply current times voltage and don't correct for power factor. The inductive load of the ballest shifts current out of phase from the voltage. Domestic electricity consumers don't generally get billed for poor power factor. Industrial electrical consumers often have a power factor coefficient added to their electricity bills which incentivizes them to do power factor correction on their inductive loads, usually large A.C. induction motors. The power utilities dont like bad power factor because it induces large currents in the generator armature which causes heating and actually decreases the total power rating of the turbogenerator. The 100 watt LED is explained by having some internal power factor correction capacitor.
I would question the accuracy of your wattage meter. Some, if not most of the CFLs and LEDs nice be using pulse width modulation, so pulling more watts in short bursts, fractional seconds, and perhaps your meter is seeing the high bursts, but not the lows in between. There might also be some kind of burn in, warm up period where the bulbs are consuming more or less power than usual. I know that florescent bulbs have to pulse higher wattage to create the initial arc and vaporize the mercury.
While I find this soo fascinating there's alot of other factors that aren't accounted for in this test. Like others said below but also I am pretty sure the reason for the last LED being closest to accurate is because of the time between the first bulbs used and the later ones. As they heat up and can actually be using electric through the circuits etc for a bit after the bulb/light is turned off etc. It may have then effected the next bulb tested. I would love to see this test done in reverse order and with a specific longer time between each tested bulb as well as checking wattage used after a certain length of time on for each bulb as well. I think I've also read that some of the older non led bulbs also tend to start using more as they continue being on longer, as they heat up etc. No clue how accurate any of my comment is, and I'm far too exhausted to remember any scientific terminology rattling around somewhere in my brain, so I do apologize but I love this testing concept so much, I would love to see you do it with the suggested conditions and added variables mentioned for sure. Pretty please :) haha. I also wonder if you have 2 of the exact same lamps/sockets and 2 exact same wattage meters and tested the very old style bulbs (I beleive one of the first few you did) and the led on seperate ends of the table for the exact same length of time etc. How the readings would show then. And also, do the readings change if you are using a different lamp/light socket? So many questions! Hahaha. Thank you for doing this ❤️ love these little "experiments" so much!
I noticed that one of the LED bulbs I replaced today was boiling hot. It had not blown out but was replaced for color temp. It occurred to me that they may not be showing the wattage consumed by the circuitry and might be just showing the wattage consumed by the LED portion of the bulb. That amount of heat indicates a high consumption of current, which means higher wattage.
I am with you on this same thought. My LED bulbs are very hot where the circuitry is, but the actually bulb is Not. Makes me think that LEDS are not really consuming that much less energy as we think. I did a week test changing my LEDS with incandescent halogen bulbs. Strangely enough….ConEdison said I was using less power.
The power supply is AC and the LED is DC and also a lot lower voltage than the AC power so the driver is doing some work and getting hot. They are designed to take the heat away from the driver and LED's that's why the base gets hot. An LED bulb gives off 90% light and 10% heat so they aren't 100% efficient but an incandescent bulb gives of 90% heat and 10% light , so they were more of a heater than a light bulb. It's normal for the base of an LED to get quite hot .
They get hot where the heatsink is so the light emmitting diodes don't overheat. So that is normal. Too much dirty electricity can make an electric meter run high. What is the best resistor to get rid of dirty electricity? A regular old light bulb. So can be a good thing to use at least one.
@@ny1084 _My LED bulbs are very hot where the circuitry is, but the actually bulb is Not._ You may already know this, but just because it is hot in one spot does not mean it's giving off a lot of heat. There is a difference between heat and temperature. A pot of water and a swimming pool can both be 100 degrees, but it obviously takes way more heat to warm the pool.
I bought a 40w 200w equivalent cfl bulb but also a 13w 100w equivalent led bulb both seem to give the same light but the led gets really hot at the base compared to the cfl I dont get it looks like your getting free heat with the led bulb.
Yea exactly what I thought. His cheapo meter probably just measures apperent power and since most led bulbs have horrible power factors it is much higher than the true power!
It might be a power factor issue. Many of the power supplies in the bulbs have inductors or capacitors that can put the voltage out of phase with the current. Possibly the watt meter has no way to correct for this? Naw, the bulb companies are lying.
With original incandescent bulbs they gave off light right down to the small cap so your got more spread of light and less dark areas they used more energy but also generated more heat so not all was lost, people forget they're tv's give off heat too.
True test would be to unplug everything in your place but that lamp and have a camera recording the electric meter outside the utility company uses as you try each bulb.
we don't what else is plugged in at the same as you turning the light... apparently, I have all LED light bulbs and smart LED light bulbs, it's on 24/7 with the smart light bulb.. and doesn't affect my electric bill... however, the so-called energy efficient mini-split does use the most electricity but it is relatively not bad at all. My electric bill is $133.15 a month... it's the rate that are the killer...
See the power supply in side the led bulbs. If in side it has a high frequency transform power supply it will energy efficient bulbs. If in side only some diods and resistance for led power supply it not energy efficient. Actually led bulbs manufacturers are Chet us by putting cheep power supply inside the led bulbs
You are wrong! Buy multimeter and not some random china made crap which shows random numbers. Its like one of those tv marketed trash things which does nothing :D .This year was the save your electric bill with plugging this in :D if you open you see there is nothing inside :D . Want to measure buy multimeter. Next you must count from bulb connections. I mean put multimeter dots to bulb connection spots, this will be that screw one at bottom other on side metal and chech. You will get numbers than use (vir) counting basic thing. As you dont seem to know how electricity works. You have long old wire, the lamp also all those things will make readings wrong. Electricity is working same as running water in pipes simple explanation and it can do same as water in hose . Cant say about the bulbs in usa i live in eu. Here if numbers are wrong you will not gonna sell product anymore. We have EU labeled energy saving readings on side and if it says 5,5 W it will be 5,5 W gov are checking always this as eu going toward 0 CO2 polution. I would recommend led only as they are 5,5W eqvivalent-40W simple cheap bulb. Want to save energy than bulbs go out buy led and remove all chargers which are switched into circuit.
lol 99.9 % people will keep buying the bogus advertised bulbs all there life with out ever knowing the truth.... but this is serious why is there so much mis advertising on some these bulbs where do i get one of these watt meters...with these calculations you can run 10 bulbs at 18 watt with a total of =180 watt/h with other people running just 2 bulbs at 160 watt/h because they are mis labelled. that watt usage meter is handy..bulbs company be like you cheated you cheated ; you took the real info out
I hate so-called high-efficiency lightbulbs. I used to have one, 100 W bulb in the lamp in my game room. I could read with it, it lit the room up, I could work on my guitar’s with just the single 100 W bulb light in the room. Now that I can’t buy a 100 W incandesce and lightbulb anymore. I have six recessed bulbs in the ceiling .. they are energy star60 W bulbs. They are also pathetic. I have to have all six on and the energy efficient so called 60 W bulb in the lamp . All of those lights on together are not as bright as my single 100 W bulb used to be. They say they give off 60 W of light but only use 18 W each. You know what, they’re not 60 W bulbs, they are 18 W bulbs.That’s what happens when government knows better than you do. Thanks Obama. Also thanks for 1 1/2 gallon flush toilets. I actually had to take one back to the store plugged up because it was not completely cleansing itself with a flush.. I took it back to the store plugged up. We can also thank Obama for the new faucets and the water dispensers on our refrigerator. The water inside the Fossett comes out of a 1/8 inch tube. It takes about three minutes to fill a large pot for making corn on the cob or boiling potatoes and cabbage. That’s not wasting water filling those pots to cook with. That’s wasting my time..Also, our new refrigerator has one of those tiny tubes internally that takes about 30 seconds to fill a 12 ounce glass of water when I want to get water from the dispenser on the refrigerator. Thanks Obama
Christ, I'm not a fan of LEDs, but when people bring Obama into everything... It's a bit daft, my kid fell over, it's Obamas fault, my car broke down... I blame Obama.
Very unusual outcome from the different bulbs. Just goes to show that the manufacturers figures are skewed in their own favour and that all results must be verified. The majority of people, including myself, would not have thought to question the ratings as advertised. it really is an eye opener !!
CFL bulbs are like other discharge bulbs and use higher wattage to ignite and then lower the wattage use as they come to full brightness.
That's what I was thinking, also. However, what you don't see in the video is that I let it run for several minutes with a minimal drop in wattage.
Awesome vid, thank you for creating & taking the time
Thank you so much fro making this awesome video!....just what I was looking for....and please never remove your cute assistant...lol
Did you try other bulbs out of the same package?
Very helpful video. Now I know that I need LED bulbs for my home... 😊
Strange indeed... I'd like to know what a Kill-A-Watt would say.
I'm not 100% sure of the meter you're using, but there is a difference between apparent power versus true power. In a purely resistive load (no inductance or capacitance) the incandescent bulb reflects correctly because electrical resistance turns into heat, which turns into light, so your meter reads correctly. The Fluorescent bulb has to have the equivalent of a transformer or inductive element, because it needs to ignite the gas, and then it glows. So the wattmeter has to capture the inductive function of the circuit. The reason the number didn't go down after you kept it going for a while is that it never measured the inductive component of power in the first place, and therefore, the number looks the same after you kept the bulb on for a while The LED bulb I don't know the answer to that one. In other words, Watts is volts times amps, but only in a purely resistance-based circuit but that's not true once capacitance or inductance is introduced.. Here's a link explaining how a Wattmeter apparent power versus true power:
www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/chpt-11/true-reactive-and-apparent-power/
Yep, these cheap watt meters evidently multiply current times voltage and don't correct for power factor. The inductive load of the ballest shifts current out of phase from the voltage. Domestic electricity consumers don't generally get billed for poor power factor. Industrial electrical consumers often have a power factor coefficient added to their electricity bills which incentivizes them to do power factor correction on their inductive loads, usually large A.C. induction motors. The power utilities dont like bad power factor because it induces large currents in the generator armature which causes heating and actually decreases the total power rating of the turbogenerator. The 100 watt LED is explained by having some internal power factor correction capacitor.
This was a very helpful video with real life/time data. Made my purchase alot easier and cost effective for my needs. Thank you sir.
I would also check another watt meter for 2nd opinion. I use the kill a watt meter and I use Cree daylight bulbs. Very low power and bright. 5000k.
did you ask the makers of these bulbs for an explanation?
Great video and great question
I would question the accuracy of your wattage meter. Some, if not most of the CFLs and LEDs nice be using pulse width modulation, so pulling more watts in short bursts, fractional seconds, and perhaps your meter is seeing the high bursts, but not the lows in between.
There might also be some kind of burn in, warm up period where the bulbs are consuming more or less power than usual. I know that florescent bulbs have to pulse higher wattage to create the initial arc and vaporize the mercury.
I've read thst if you have a smart meter, it's the high bursts that it measures and uses that to gauge your bill.
Lol, the cats face when you turned on the 100 watt bulb
While I find this soo fascinating there's alot of other factors that aren't accounted for in this test. Like others said below but also I am pretty sure the reason for the last LED being closest to accurate is because of the time between the first bulbs used and the later ones. As they heat up and can actually be using electric through the circuits etc for a bit after the bulb/light is turned off etc. It may have then effected the next bulb tested. I would love to see this test done in reverse order and with a specific longer time between each tested bulb as well as checking wattage used after a certain length of time on for each bulb as well. I think I've also read that some of the older non led bulbs also tend to start using more as they continue being on longer, as they heat up etc. No clue how accurate any of my comment is, and I'm far too exhausted to remember any scientific terminology rattling around somewhere in my brain, so I do apologize but I love this testing concept so much, I would love to see you do it with the suggested conditions and added variables mentioned for sure. Pretty please :) haha. I also wonder if you have 2 of the exact same lamps/sockets and 2 exact same wattage meters and tested the very old style bulbs (I beleive one of the first few you did) and the led on seperate ends of the table for the exact same length of time etc. How the readings would show then. And also, do the readings change if you are using a different lamp/light socket? So many questions! Hahaha. Thank you for doing this ❤️ love these little "experiments" so much!
I noticed that one of the LED bulbs I replaced today was boiling hot. It had not blown out but was replaced for color temp. It occurred to me that they may not be showing the wattage consumed by the circuitry and might be just showing the wattage consumed by the LED portion of the bulb. That amount of heat indicates a high consumption of current, which means higher wattage.
i noticed the same thing today.
I am with you on this same thought. My LED bulbs are very hot where the circuitry is, but the actually bulb is Not. Makes me think that LEDS are not really consuming that much less energy as we think. I did a week test changing my LEDS with incandescent halogen bulbs. Strangely enough….ConEdison said I was using less power.
The power supply is AC and the LED is DC and also a lot lower voltage than the AC power so the driver is doing some work and getting hot. They are designed to take the heat away from the driver and LED's that's why the base gets hot. An LED bulb gives off 90% light and 10% heat so they aren't 100% efficient but an incandescent bulb gives of 90% heat and 10% light , so they were more of a heater than a light bulb. It's normal for the base of an LED to get quite hot .
They get hot where the heatsink is so the light emmitting diodes don't overheat. So that is normal. Too much dirty electricity can make an electric meter run high. What is the best resistor to get rid of dirty electricity? A regular old light bulb. So can be a good thing to use at least one.
@@ny1084 _My LED bulbs are very hot where the circuitry is, but the actually bulb is Not._
You may already know this, but just because it is hot in one spot does not mean it's giving off a lot of heat. There is a difference between heat and temperature. A pot of water and a swimming pool can both be 100 degrees, but it obviously takes way more heat to warm the pool.
Thanks for this, I knew they weren't honest.
Nice test 👍
4:54 nice
10w 240v led bulb here in Australia is bang on. Go figure
I bought a 40w 200w equivalent cfl bulb but also a 13w 100w equivalent led bulb both seem to give the same light but the led gets really hot at the base compared to the cfl I dont get it looks like your getting free heat with the led bulb.
Did you try to duplicate the results in order to validate them and also to verify that the meter is accurate?
Is that true power or apparent power.?
Yea exactly what I thought. His cheapo meter probably just measures apperent power and since most led bulbs have horrible power factors it is much higher than the true power!
It might be a power factor issue. Many of the power supplies in the bulbs have inductors or capacitors that can put the voltage out of phase with the current. Possibly the watt meter has no way to correct for this? Naw, the bulb companies are lying.
Looks like it’s set on amps not watts?
With original incandescent bulbs they gave off light right down to the small cap so your got more spread of light and less dark areas they used more energy but also generated more heat so not all was lost, people forget they're tv's give off heat too.
In the winter they provide both light and heat.
True test would be to unplug everything in your place but that lamp and have a camera recording the electric meter outside the utility company uses as you try each bulb.
what is your conclusion?
Your meter is on amps 😛
we don't what else is plugged in at the same as you turning the light... apparently, I have all LED light bulbs and smart LED light bulbs, it's on 24/7 with the smart light bulb.. and doesn't affect my electric bill... however, the so-called energy efficient mini-split does use the most electricity but it is relatively not bad at all. My electric bill is $133.15 a month... it's the rate that are the killer...
Should try it with microwave ovens you would have a heart attack lol
After cfls warm up they use way less power
See the power supply in side the led bulbs.
If in side it has a high frequency transform power supply it will energy efficient bulbs.
If in side only some diods and resistance for led power supply it not energy efficient.
Actually led bulbs manufacturers are Chet us by putting cheep power supply inside the led bulbs
Cat has 💡
Wow
Umm
electricity energy bulb 100
ইলেকট্রনিক এনার্জি বাল্ব
Lighter walls, carpets,curtains, blinds, furniture and mirrors help to keep a room naturally lighter.
😹
Uhmmmm. Hmmm
You are wrong! Buy multimeter and not some random china made crap which shows random numbers. Its like one of those tv marketed trash things which does nothing :D .This year was the save your electric bill with plugging this in :D if you open you see there is nothing inside :D . Want to measure buy multimeter. Next you must count from bulb connections. I mean put multimeter dots to bulb connection spots, this will be that screw one at bottom other on side metal and chech. You will get numbers than use (vir) counting basic thing. As you dont seem to know how electricity works. You have long old wire, the lamp also all those things will make readings wrong. Electricity is working same as running water in pipes simple explanation and it can do same as water in hose . Cant say about the bulbs in usa i live in eu. Here if numbers are wrong you will not gonna sell product anymore. We have EU labeled energy saving readings on side and if it says 5,5 W it will be 5,5 W gov are checking always this as eu going toward 0 CO2 polution. I would recommend led only as they are 5,5W eqvivalent-40W simple cheap bulb. Want to save energy than bulbs go out buy led and remove all chargers which are switched into circuit.
lol 99.9 % people will keep buying the bogus advertised bulbs all there life with out ever knowing the truth.... but this is serious why is there so much mis advertising on some these bulbs where do i get one of these watt meters...with these calculations you can run 10 bulbs at 18 watt with a total of =180 watt/h with other people running just 2 bulbs at 160 watt/h because they are mis labelled. that watt usage meter is handy..bulbs company be like you cheated you cheated ; you took the real info out
I hate so-called high-efficiency lightbulbs. I used to have one, 100 W bulb in the lamp in my game room. I could read with it, it lit the room up, I could work on my guitar’s with just the single 100 W bulb light in the room. Now that I can’t buy a 100 W incandesce and lightbulb anymore. I have six recessed bulbs in the ceiling .. they are energy star60 W bulbs. They are also pathetic. I have to have all six on and the energy efficient so called 60 W bulb in the lamp . All of those lights on together are not as bright as my single 100 W bulb used to be. They say they give off 60 W of light but only use 18 W each. You know what, they’re not 60 W bulbs, they are 18 W bulbs.That’s what happens when government knows better than you do. Thanks Obama. Also thanks for 1 1/2 gallon flush toilets. I actually had to take one back to the store plugged up because it was not completely cleansing itself with a flush.. I took it back to the store plugged up.
We can also thank Obama for the new faucets and the water dispensers on our refrigerator. The water inside the Fossett comes out of a 1/8 inch tube. It takes about three minutes to fill a large pot for making corn on the cob or boiling potatoes and cabbage. That’s not wasting water filling those pots to cook with. That’s wasting my time..Also, our new refrigerator has one of those tiny tubes internally that takes about 30 seconds to fill a 12 ounce glass of water when I want to get water from the dispenser on the refrigerator. Thanks Obama
Harry Lime what does Obama have to do with you choosing the wrong appliances for your house?
Obama sucks.
O.ne
B.ig
A.ss
M.istake
A.merica
He cheated too. He wasn't voted in by legitimate voters either. The radical Left have to cheat to win.
And then we're horribly affected by their horrible governance. He was tearing this country down, and still is.
Christ, I'm not a fan of LEDs, but when people bring Obama into everything... It's a bit daft, my kid fell over, it's Obamas fault, my car broke down... I blame Obama.