Thanks!!! I had a stripped screw holding my actuator in BUT somehow I got it off and replaced. Great video. I’ve been battling with a non functioning door for 18 months… this will actually make my daily life better. Thanks man. 2003 Acura MDX 260k miles.
Thank you Mr. Eslick! Both of my rear door actuators were going out on my 2004 MDX and your video saved that day. You and your videos have helped me so much over the years. Last week I used your brake video to replace all four rotors and brakes. If you are ever in Pueblo, CO I owe you dinner and drinks. Thank you sir!
I've had two new actuators sitting around for more than a year just waiting to be installed. It wasn't until I saw your video and you laid everything out so perfectly that I realized how easy it would be to tackle it. I had that rear door lock fixed in less than 30 minutes. Loved your video!
Excellent video and extremely helpful, got mine done in 35m. I've noticed that there are several comments about the actuator screws stripping. They are NOT actually Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) which is common for Honda/Acura vehicles. I also stripped the screws on the first door i fixed. I ended up purchasing a set of JIS screwdrivers and i can feel the difference in the bite in the screw head. Look up JIS screws on Wikipedia.
Excellent video. Thanks very much. If I hadn't dropped one of the screws into the door panel and spent a bunch of time trying to retrieve it, I would've been done in 30 minutes. For the record, a decora panel screw fits perfectly as a replacement.
Thanks for the video! I did the job in little over 1 hour including fishing out the screw that fell into the door crevice. The screws on the actuator are PH#1. Anything other than that will damage the screws.
This video was invaluable in doing this project, but it makes it look much easier than it is. The black sealant holding the white plastic sheeting on is a miracle substance. Some of it never stuck to the metal in the first place. But most of it was so tough that by the time I got the sheeting pulled back I was winded, my finger tips were hurting, and the plastic sheeting was all wrinkled up. It isn't like I have a weak grip strength, I can deadlift several hundred pounds. As with almost all of those locking tab electrical connectors, I tried for 15 minutes to squeeze the tab and pull them off, but they were too close to everything and wouldn't budge. When my wife came along and said her hands were smaller and let her try I told her "ok, but there is no way you have enough grip strength". Damn if they didn't come right off for her. All I can guess is I loosened them. Right now I'm stuck after 30 minutes of trying to get the top of the door panel back in the slot along with the lock lever. The panel is wider than the narrowing window frame as it goes up, and it is impossible to get the panel u close enough to the door while at the same time having your hand behind to guide the lock lever into the slot. Oh and while I was fighting to hook the door panel on at the top, it slipped and tore the door panel insulation into 3 pieces. I had to use duct tape to tape it back together. I suspect over time the duct tape will deteriorate and the insulation will fall to the bottom of the panel. But I didn't have a better way to quickly fix the damage. Honda engineers are jerks for designing the access this difficult, while using such cheesy lock motors that will require regular replacements.
Thank you , excellent presentation. Clear to the point a huge help. Took less than an hour. Could be because its the 3rd one I have done. Previous ones I brke the plastic clip on the door lever. Thanks Again !!!
Hi Brian. Thanks for the video. Has really helped with my 2005 MDX. Was able to replace Driver Rear and Passenger Rear actuator. I was wondering if you have any suggestions. I have to replace the Driver Front Actuator also, problem is, I stripped one of the screws holding the actuator, i have tried almost everything, screw extractor set, screw extractor pliers, but the thing won't budge. Any thoughts/suggestions/ideas? Thanks again Brian.
What if I can open the door? The lock is stuck in the down position and therefore I can’t open the door. Can I still get the door panel off of the door is not open?
I did the front and rear left door after I install everything back when I lock the door pull the handle on driver side door it would not open. I would have to hit the lock and unlocked switch to be able to open the door... what could have happened?
Thanks!!! I had a stripped screw holding my actuator in BUT somehow I got it off and replaced. Great video.
I’ve been battling with a non functioning door for 18 months… this will actually make my daily life better. Thanks man.
2003 Acura MDX 260k miles.
Thank you Mr. Eslick! Both of my rear door actuators were going out on my 2004 MDX and your video saved that day. You and your videos have helped me so much over the years. Last week I used your brake video to replace all four rotors and brakes. If you are ever in Pueblo, CO I owe you dinner and drinks. Thank you sir!
Glad my videos have have helped over the years. Thank you for watching!
Thanks to this video I was able to successfully fix my 2004 MDX door lock. It was driving me nuts having to use that lock manually. Thanks!!!
Glad to help. Thank you for watching!
I've had two new actuators sitting around for more than a year just waiting to be installed. It wasn't until I saw your video and you laid everything out so perfectly that I realized how easy it would be to tackle it. I had that rear door lock fixed in less than 30 minutes. Loved your video!
I wish there were more videos as easy to follow as this. Excellent tutorial - I got the job done in less than 20 minutes. Great Video!
Replaced the passenger rear actuator on my wife's 2001 yesterday. This video was so helpful!!! Thank you!!!!
Thank you, Brian! Very thorough and helpful to me! Godspeed.
@@benacosta7597 thank you!
Excellent video and extremely helpful, got mine done in 35m. I've noticed that there are several comments about the actuator screws stripping. They are NOT actually Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) which is common for Honda/Acura vehicles. I also stripped the screws on the first door i fixed. I ended up purchasing a set of JIS screwdrivers and i can feel the difference in the bite in the screw head. Look up JIS screws on Wikipedia.
Was able to follow instructions exactly step by step with my 05 MDX. Thanks a lot for this video!
That’s awesome. Thank you for watching!
Excellent video. Thanks very much. If I hadn't dropped one of the screws into the door panel and spent a bunch of time trying to retrieve it, I would've been done in 30 minutes. For the record, a decora panel screw fits perfectly as a replacement.
Excellent video. Thank you so much. It took me about 30 minutes to complete and it is working great ..
Easy to follow along and well explained. Can't ask for more!
wyattoneable thank you!
you saved me 3 or 4 hours of frustration trying to work out how to do this. Many thanks. Brilliant video
Perfect video, 2005 MDX 250k miles just needed a new rear actuator, thank you !
Still running?
Thanks for the video! I did the job in little over 1 hour including fishing out the screw that fell into the door crevice. The screws on the actuator are PH#1. Anything other than that will damage the screws.
This video was invaluable in doing this project, but it makes it look much easier than it is.
The black sealant holding the white plastic sheeting on is a miracle substance. Some of it never stuck to the metal in the first place. But most of it was so tough that by the time I got the sheeting pulled back I was winded, my finger tips were hurting, and the plastic sheeting was all wrinkled up. It isn't like I have a weak grip strength, I can deadlift several hundred pounds.
As with almost all of those locking tab electrical connectors, I tried for 15 minutes to squeeze the tab and pull them off, but they were too close to everything and wouldn't budge. When my wife came along and said her hands were smaller and let her try I told her "ok, but there is no way you have enough grip strength". Damn if they didn't come right off for her. All I can guess is I loosened them.
Right now I'm stuck after 30 minutes of trying to get the top of the door panel back in the slot along with the lock lever. The panel is wider than the narrowing window frame as it goes up, and it is impossible to get the panel u close enough to the door while at the same time having your hand behind to guide the lock lever into the slot.
Oh and while I was fighting to hook the door panel on at the top, it slipped and tore the door panel insulation into 3 pieces. I had to use duct tape to tape it back together. I suspect over time the duct tape will deteriorate and the insulation will fall to the bottom of the panel. But I didn't have a better way to quickly fix the damage.
Honda engineers are jerks for designing the access this difficult, while using such cheesy lock motors that will require regular replacements.
Colin Gebhart that’s awesome that your wife got those Connectors off. I agree with you the engineers could’ve made it a lot easier.
Worked like a charm. Excellent and well edited video.
Thank you! Glad it all worked out.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful for me.
Wow! and you did it all with one hand. Great video.
It’s a lot easier with two hands. Thank you for watching!
Great demonstration. I wonder if you'll include more diagnosis videos so ppl like me know what to look for. Thx
Thank you , excellent presentation. Clear to the point a huge help. Took less than an hour. Could be because its the 3rd one I have done. Previous ones I brke the plastic clip on the door lever. Thanks Again !!!
Great video! Very helpful! Thank you!
Thank you so much! This helped a lot!
Hi, Is this the appropriate repair if rear lock doesn't go down?
Hi Brian. Thanks for the video. Has really helped with my 2005 MDX. Was able to replace Driver Rear and Passenger Rear actuator. I was wondering if you have any suggestions. I have to replace the Driver Front Actuator also, problem is, I stripped one of the screws holding the actuator, i have tried almost everything, screw extractor set, screw extractor pliers, but the thing won't budge. Any thoughts/suggestions/ideas? Thanks again Brian.
I had this exact issue. If it is still bothering you, I would recommend vice grips and a deliberate turning action. That's the only way I got it out!
yes very helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A huge thank you!
Great video very helpful
Thanks 4 your help.your the man.
Thank you for watching!
How did you get the two Phillips heads backed out of old lock actuator? Mine stripped....
The screws should have just fallen out when you unscrewed them. These screws are still available from Honda/Acura.
Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching!
Is this the same procedure for an 2006 Acura TL?
Are these steps similar for a 2008 Acura MDX?
Katrina Mielke yes it’s pretty much the same job.
What if I can open the door? The lock is stuck in the down position and therefore I can’t open the door. Can I still get the door panel off of the door is not open?
I did the front and rear left door after I install everything back when I lock the door pull the handle on driver side door it would not open. I would have to hit the lock and unlocked switch to be able to open the door... what could have happened?
Will this solution fix the problem...”rear door won’t open from exterior handle?” But interior handle will open the door just fine.
3nguyen5 I need to take the door panel off and look in there and see if the cable or something is broken
Great......
Fu man Chu thank you!
Thanks a lot!