Thank you for your experiments after the season ended. It lets us all stay in the mood longer. I am looking forward to pay you guys a visit next season.
Attach the line to the point you’re hanging from, as in the first attempt. You’ll need to move that attachment point out to the point you want to hang from on each trial. The pole will be totally in compression then, and it should work. I think the bag is probably less hassle in the long run, though.
The bag is working very well! When drilled through, carbon fiber rods always break at the weakest point. I'm pretty sure you would get nice result with the same pole, but without any holes. It should be attached to the top hull from a long loop going inside-out the length of the pole, and the bottom of the pole to the hull in the water for extra leverage. It means a shorter pole, less flex, less cracks, less laughs :)
Thanks for all your efforts Joe, as you said you're doing it so we don't have to and it's much appreciated. I admit I did have a cheeky giggle when the pole snapped...I will try the alternative pole/plank method to the lower hull. Your method is similar to the kit called the "Power Righting Pole" that is sold commercially. I had read comments about it from those who have tried it saying pretty much what you found out - that is doesn't work too well when solo which is the reason most people would want to have one in the first place! The alternative method seems much more efficient as you walk out along the pole/plank and away from the bottom hull greatly increasing your righting moment. I think some kind of fitting to the end that sits in the hull lip would be good to spread the load somewhat though the way the hull deck and walls are joined at that point on Hobie 14/16s is pretty robust and don't think the seam would be compromised. I found another youtube vid of a similar system this time on a getaway. ua-cam.com/video/eHvCGd8DkD0/v-deo.html
Love this testing!!! Valuable lessons for all of us since you are sharing! I would try reversing the righting pole so you are hanging off the thicker and stronger end. Then attach the line further out (as you already figured out). But if you go far enough out I would think that you need two lines keeping the pole up and centred. Otherwise it could swing in and you end up on the rudder or something.
I recently purchased a 16 with a lower hull pole. It has a traction tape strip that allows you to walk out on the pole in addition to hanging from it. Will still keep the bag as redundancy in critical areas is important. Thanks for your frequent outstanding videos. Approaching 6 months of winter in Montana, your broadcasts keep me virtually sailing through the long cold snowy season!
Brilliant! And a good surprise laugh. Looks like the bag is the winner but don't give up on the pole yet. You will solve the poleish riddle with persistance. Looking forward to Mk3. All the best for winter season
Seems like the bag works. You need to figure out some way to get your center of mass (belly button) further out from the hull. I thought the pole would work, but I guess not. I carry an aluminum crutch on my boat, and I figured in a pinch I could put the foot of the crutch up against the hull lip, tie the other end of the crutch to the frame, and then walk my way out the aluminum crutch. Haven't tried it yet; after watching this I'm thinking maybe I expect too much of the crutch (I didn't expect the fiberglass mast to break).
My token still goes for the bag, I actually sail solo till 15-18 knots, just guessing how the bag can work with lighter sailors, if I remember correctly you, Joe, are around 90 kgs, 20 more than me... Currently after a capsize I need help from a friend sailing on another boat or from the club safety.
Going with the pole method (I've not seen the 'Power Righting Pole' mentioned, btw). I'd try a thicker walled outer with a telescopic inner to keep the length down; obviously thick enough to take the load ⛵👍
the pole would need to be supported at the tip by running a line from the tip over top of the hull and tighten it so it cant bend in the middle. however the bag is the clear winner of this contest.
Joe : I have some engineering training. So I hope help a bit with MARK. The pole broke because you put the pole in BENDING mode. To avoid this ... You can ONLY hang your full weight at the EXACT point where the pole is supported by the line that runs back to the hull. Have a look at the TIGER MANUAL parts manual and the FX ONE MANUAL. They have this pole spec'd quite clearly. They have actually 2 supporting lines on each site. This would allow you to work your way out along the pole. The key is the supporting ropes are many many times stronger in a direct pull mode ( tension) than any pole could be with a bending action. Same as your mast .. the attachments for the trapeese are very close to the plane of the shroud attachments so that bending is zero or at least limited .
Ok next test should be a shroud extender that you can release from the underside of the tramp. There was one like that at our club awhile back. Basically had a 12" or so cable with thimbles on both ends. The main shroud went through one thimble and was on a quick pin. So if he pulled the main shroud pin the 12" extension would catch the shroud as it tried to pull through the extensions thimble. Never saw it in action and it seems like a good way to maybe drop the mast off the beam but still an option.
I use the same type of sail board mast righting pole at about 210 cm, but the line holding the pole out is routed up and over the upper H16 hull for better leverage. I believe this is key. I also have that line attached to the pole very close to where I grip the pole, to prevent breakage (as is suggested below). This system works successfully - but I have never used it without a decent wind to help. As a test you should try righting your H16 with the righting line and bag attached where you had the pole attached on the crossbar (not over the haul). Love the Joyrider stuff!!
Hello ! Nice video. I think you could have more luck if you put the point of pressure of the pole not under the mast, but instead to the lower attachement of the crossbar. In this way you push on the lower "boat" while pull on the upper, creating a more strong right moment. If you look on other videos here on YT all the othe poles works as I have descripted. Sorry for my bad english ( I'm from Italy ) but I think you get the point.
I recon the the carbot is just to flexable u need something a bit more sturdy but not to heavy (aluminum mast maby?) also instead if pulling the righting pole up keep it 90° to the trampoline because when you pull it up you bring your waight ferther inwerds you want to have your waight as far away from the boat as possible... 🤙
My 2 c. Perhaps try a pole that is vertical when the cat is capsized. so it runs across the top of the 2 hulls and is vertical when capsized. I think its called a gin pole. say 1m above high hull. Line can go from mid mast maybe , then over the high end of gin pole down to you. You then have more leverage than using the width of the boat. In other words you are making the boat wider with the gin pole to help flip it over. Same principal as using trapeze . you may have to jump away rather than pulling down,, like a tree swing! The mast will be in compression as you put weight on too so should no pop out. Might not even need to atatch to mast , just to top of gin pole. Same idea as the righting rope but the rope needs to be further outboard (higher when capsized)than the hull can provide.
Good work joe , I actually started making a pole after 1st vid , but now after 2nd might just go for the ‘bag for life ‘ - although I would like to see pole success eventually and obviously more chimp antics too
Hi Joe, great test!!!! Considering the possibility of having the pole broken, I would always carry a bag as a second option, as you did. So, in my opinion, why don´t just go with the bag? After your test this is my conclusion… just the bag. Second, the bag is light, easy to assemble, efficient and soft. The pole has many points to hold, cables, items to break, is hard and in theory can cause an accident if it is long on the back. The bag doesn´t. Cheers
With a 90-100 liter bag, you should just be able to use the blocks and not bother with lifting the bag on your back. Hold onto the righting line and just pull the line through the blocks. That gives you 175-185 kilos of leverage.
You have to have a lever arm in order for righting to work. Since the boat is rotating about the longitudinal axis of the lower hull (while it is being righted), if the bag weight is directly above that hull, the lever arm is zero. You can have 500 pounds of weight hanging directly above the lower hull, and it won't right. Pushing the weight out with your back will give you a lever arm and torque the boat upright.
@@wisenber The submerged bag produces no force until it's lifted out of the water. The maximum force is achieved when the bag is lifted completely out of the water. The righting moment increases the further away (laterally) you push the bag from the keel of the boat. Two hundred pounds of water will generate 0 ft-lb of torque if straight over the keel, 400 ft-lb of torque at 2 feet from the keel, and 800 ft-lb of torque at 4 feet from the keel. Pushing the heaviest weight you can handle, as far away from the keel as possible, will give you the best chance at righting the boat.
@@bwhip "The submerged bag produces no force" No, but the person pulling it with a block does. "The maximum force is achieved when the bag is lifted completely out of the water. " No doubt, but a larger submerged bag used as a sea anchor allows the sailor to avoid holding a bag over his shoulder.
Perhaps a slightly bigger bag (a person worth) hoist on the pole and yourself on the rope. I got myself a 20ft cat and looking for a guaranteed way to undo my coming mistakes solo, a way that wouldn't be too cumbersome or too time consuming. I know I will seldom have company and I do not want that lack of company to be a hindrance.
I am definitely not an expert on righting cats, but rather than having the bag on a block and tackle, just set the line length to the dolphin sticker to be long enough to get into the water and about the right distance to be able to lift it over your shoulder. Not going over the hull
What about using the righting pole only for bags ( 2 or 3 ) and then add your weight next to it ? Maybe you can create a system that doesn't even require your weight to right the boat ?
I used a bag when I had a Dart 18 and sailed solo . Couldn’t right the boat by myself . So, the bags the better option . Easy to Stow away Possibly essential for the solo sailor or lightweight crew that can’t right the boat . Maybe consider testing bag size. Shorter and wider or a long bag , what overall volume / weight , a hoop to hold the bag open or flat pack bag for stowage. Hanging from the boat or attached to the sailor . For a light / medium weight crew my Hurricane was a bit of a handful when we practiced capsize drill. Our technique. - My crew had a bar type trapeze harness, you hook the righting line on the harness and lean out . I would then stand on the bar and as the boat came over slip of before pushing crew under water.
Great video. I’ll make a bag system. What kind of bag are you using (brand), and where to get it? I can’t find your link to Amazon. Thank you again. I’m a newcomer to Hobie 16, and really enjoy all of your videos.
This is an Aqua Lung bag (diving equipment) My original that worked very well was a gardening style bag. www.amazon.com/shop/josephbennett?listId=24CVKW1IWIR85&ref=cm_sw_em_r_inf_list_pub_josephbennett_dp_5MuU1tMKUM1A2
Thanks for testing your pole theory to the bitter end. Would you be willing to test the shroud extension method? I know many people use it regularly even though demasting could be disastrous. Have you heard of anyone that unseated their mast doing this? There is even a Hobie part made for this (10049). Maybe there could be a way to secure the mast base before unleashing the shroud?
@@JoyriderTV I know you are not keen , just thought I'd ask. What's needed is a way to secure the base temporarily (rotating stepping pin?)or if there were a shroud shortening device to go with the extender.
I gave up on my Sol cat 18 because I just couldn't right it by myself. I was going to make a righting Pole that stuck onto the rudder but I'm not sure it will work.
What do you think of that video ? It seems both effective and easy to use : ua-cam.com/video/NwZZX2ka820/v-deo.html The man is 75kg, solo, and right his hc18 with 0 wind !
That pole ain’t gonna work if you don’t point to the bottom of the beam and not in the center... also consider finding some way to hang the bag on the pole! 🤣
@@thudwarp not exactly... the distance from the center of rotation needs to be projected on the force direction to be correct. Since the force is gravity it acts on a vertical line, then the much more vertical is the pole the force increases. With the pole fixed to the center of the beam the pole-center of rotation distance has just a very little length on the vertical line
@@thudwarp yes sorry for my jet leg answer 🤪. Of course it is the perpendicular component that matters... in fact until both hull are in the water the boat rotates around a point called transversal metacenter point which is positioned a bit under the center of the beam. This means that when fixed to the center of the beam the righting pole has less leverage then when in the downside position
Is it wrong that i laughed when it broken? The bend was massive. Great video.
Not wrong. Mk3 coming next!
Thank you for your experiments after the season ended. It lets us all stay in the mood longer.
I am looking forward to pay you guys a visit next season.
Great! I'll try to get out agin soon!
Attach the line to the point you’re hanging from, as in the first attempt. You’ll need to move that attachment point out to the point you want to hang from on each trial. The pole will be totally in compression then, and it should work. I think the bag is probably less hassle in the long run, though.
Yes, I was trying to be clever by finding out the length needed in one go. Maybe one mor try with the pole at 220
The bag is working very well! When drilled through, carbon fiber rods always break at the weakest point. I'm pretty sure you would get nice result with the same pole, but without any holes. It should be attached to the top hull from a long loop going inside-out the length of the pole, and the bottom of the pole to the hull in the water for extra leverage. It means a shorter pole, less flex, less cracks, less laughs :)
Thanks for the tips! I'll re-group and get back out there!
Comedy gold!
Intriguing what you say to Mrs Joyrider TV when you leave for “work”
Ha! yes, I'm pretty sure that she thinks that i spend most of my time messing around with boats.
Thanks for all your efforts Joe, as you said you're doing it so we don't have to and it's much appreciated.
I admit I did have a cheeky giggle when the pole snapped...I will try the alternative pole/plank method to the lower hull. Your method is similar to the kit called the "Power Righting Pole" that is sold commercially. I had read comments about it from those who have tried it saying pretty much what you found out - that is doesn't work too well when solo which is the reason most people would want to have one in the first place!
The alternative method seems much more efficient as you walk out along the pole/plank and away from the bottom hull greatly increasing your righting moment. I think some kind of fitting to the end that sits in the hull lip would be good to spread the load somewhat though the way the hull deck and walls are joined at that point on Hobie 14/16s is pretty robust and don't think the seam would be compromised. I found another youtube vid of a similar system this time on a getaway.
ua-cam.com/video/eHvCGd8DkD0/v-deo.html
Yes, Mk3 is going to be more of a 'walking the plank' method - i think that will have the right results.
Love this testing!!! Valuable lessons for all of us since you are sharing!
I would try reversing the righting pole so you are hanging off the thicker and stronger end. Then attach the line further out (as you already figured out). But if you go far enough out I would think that you need two lines keeping the pole up and centred. Otherwise it could swing in and you end up on the rudder or something.
Yes, The MK3 is a long time overdue. Once I have more time i'll get it out again.
I recently purchased a 16 with a lower hull pole. It has a traction tape strip that allows you to walk out on the pole in addition to hanging from it. Will still keep the bag as redundancy in critical areas is important. Thanks for your frequent outstanding videos. Approaching 6 months of winter in Montana, your broadcasts keep me virtually sailing through the long cold snowy season!
Congratulations on the purchase, good choice!
I'll try to keep them coming!
it c help if you put an aluminium pole inside the windsurfer mast which would strengthen it considerably
Brilliant! And a good surprise laugh. Looks like the bag is the winner but don't give up on the pole yet. You will solve the poleish riddle with persistance. Looking forward to Mk3. All the best for winter season
Cheers Anders! More fun and games to come!
Seems like the bag works. You need to figure out some way to get your center of mass (belly button) further out from the hull. I thought the pole would work, but I guess not. I carry an aluminum crutch on my boat, and I figured in a pinch I could put the foot of the crutch up against the hull lip, tie the other end of the crutch to the frame, and then walk my way out the aluminum crutch. Haven't tried it yet; after watching this I'm thinking maybe I expect too much of the crutch (I didn't expect the fiberglass mast to break).
Mk3 will be more of a walking the plank style which will get the mass much further out and has to work.
My token still goes for the bag, I actually sail solo till 15-18 knots, just guessing how the bag can work with lighter sailors, if I remember correctly you, Joe, are around 90 kgs, 20 more than me... Currently after a capsize I need help from a friend sailing on another boat or from the club safety.
Yes, the bag will do you well. I need the bag in zero wind probably up to about 18 knots.
You're absolutely right we'd all like to see the pole
Of course, I knew that you would. Mk3 coming up.
Going with the pole method (I've not seen the 'Power Righting Pole' mentioned, btw). I'd try a thicker walled outer with a telescopic inner to keep the length down; obviously thick enough to take the load ⛵👍
Yeah, i'm thinking 220 my be the sweet spot - reinforced so that it doesn't snap.
the pole would need to be supported at the tip by running a line from the tip over top of the hull and tighten it so it cant bend in the middle. however the bag is the clear winner of this contest.
Yes, the compact form of the bag wins it for me - even if this version of the pole had been a success. I wouldn't want all that under the boat.
Great service in everything Hobie
Thanks!
Joe : I have some engineering training. So I hope help a bit with MARK. The pole broke because you put the pole in BENDING mode.
To avoid this ... You can ONLY hang your full weight at the EXACT point where the pole is supported by the line that runs back to the hull. Have a look at the TIGER MANUAL parts manual and the FX ONE MANUAL. They have this pole spec'd quite clearly. They have actually 2 supporting lines on each site. This would allow you to work your way out along the pole. The key is the supporting ropes are many many times stronger in a direct pull mode ( tension) than any pole could be with a bending action. Same as your mast .. the attachments for the trapeese are very close to the plane of the shroud attachments so that bending is zero or at least limited .
Dang ... lagg with my typing I meant I hope to help you with your Mark III RIGHTING Pole.
Thanks for that, very helpful, i will check out the Hobie pole before trying it again.
Ok next test should be a shroud extender that you can release from the underside of the tramp. There was one like that at our club awhile back. Basically had a 12" or so cable with thimbles on both ends. The main shroud went through one thimble and was on a quick pin. So if he pulled the main shroud pin the 12" extension would catch the shroud as it tried to pull through the extensions thimble. Never saw it in action and it seems like a good way to maybe drop the mast off the beam but still an option.
Yeah, i've seen the shroud extender but not at all keen as the mast could come off the step resulting in a real mess.
I use the same type of sail board mast righting pole at about 210 cm, but the line holding the pole out is routed up and over the upper H16 hull for better leverage. I believe this is key. I also have that line attached to the pole very close to where I grip the pole, to prevent breakage (as is suggested below). This system works successfully - but I have never used it without a decent wind to help. As a test you should try righting your H16 with the righting line and bag attached where you had the pole attached on the crossbar (not over the haul). Love the Joyrider stuff!!
Thanks for the tips. I'll try that next time out.
Cheers
Hello ! Nice video. I think you could have more luck if you put the point of pressure of the pole not under the mast, but instead to the lower attachement of the crossbar. In this way you push on the lower "boat" while pull on the upper, creating a more strong right moment. If you look on other videos here on YT all the othe poles works as I have descripted.
Sorry for my bad english ( I'm from Italy ) but I think you get the point.
Yes, you are right, thanks!
I recon the the carbot is just to flexable u need something a bit more sturdy but not to heavy (aluminum mast maby?) also instead if pulling the righting pole up keep it 90° to the trampoline because when you pull it up you bring your waight ferther inwerds you want to have your waight as far away from the boat as possible... 🤙
Yes, i think if it was a bit wider so that i could actually walk out on it that would have the most significant advantage.
Make the bag wider and sew it together in the middle (two compartments). Then it will stay on your back easier
Great tip!
I'll try that with the MK3 bag.
My 2 c. Perhaps try a pole that is vertical when the cat is capsized. so it runs across the top of the 2 hulls and is vertical when capsized. I think its called a gin pole. say 1m above high hull. Line can go from mid mast maybe , then over the high end of gin pole down to you. You then have more leverage than using the width of the boat. In other words you are making the boat wider with the gin pole to help flip it over. Same principal as using trapeze . you may have to jump away rather than pulling down,, like a tree swing! The mast will be in compression as you put weight on too so should no pop out. Might not even need to atatch to mast , just to top of gin pole. Same idea as the righting rope but the rope needs to be further outboard (higher when capsized)than the hull can provide.
Thanks for the idea, It sounds like it certainly would work and be a lot of fun to use!
Good work joe , I actually started making a pole after 1st vid , but now after 2nd might just go for the ‘bag for life ‘ - although I would like to see pole success eventually and obviously more chimp antics too
Yes, Mk3 is under construction - my intention was to make it quick and tidy but the next version wont be quite as such. Bag for life a great option!
@@JoyriderTV looking forward to it !
Also more effective if the base of the pole is at the lower pontoon.
yes, I went for the central anchor for convenience - which doesn't work! I decided to stick to the righting bag.
We use righting boards. I weigh less than 150lbs and can right H-16 on my own.
Nice, great idea. I will be working on MK3 at some point.
Almost Christmas. See how many mince pies it takes before you can right the boat without a bag.
Now that's a test i can get into! - I'm thinking about 5 boxes!
Smart way to test for the correct length.
until it snapped!
I'm off to buy a righting bag for my getaway methinks....
good choice!
Hi Joe, great test!!!! Considering the possibility of having the pole broken, I would always carry a bag as a second option, as you did. So, in my opinion, why don´t just go with the bag? After your test this is my conclusion… just the bag. Second, the bag is light, easy to assemble, efficient and soft. The pole has many points to hold, cables, items to break, is hard and in theory can cause an accident if it is long on the back. The bag doesn´t. Cheers
Yes, that is the same as my conclusion.
@@JoyriderTV this should work ua-cam.com/video/jTRS5pTZGV4/v-deo.html
With a 90-100 liter bag, you should just be able to use the blocks and not bother with lifting the bag on your back. Hold onto the righting line and just pull the line through the blocks. That gives you 175-185 kilos of leverage.
Nice,
once i'm back on the water i'll try some testing with bigger bags to see what is possible.
You have to have a lever arm in order for righting to work. Since the boat is rotating about the longitudinal axis of the lower hull (while it is being righted), if the bag weight is directly above that hull, the lever arm is zero. You can have 500 pounds of weight hanging directly above the lower hull, and it won't right. Pushing the weight out with your back will give you a lever arm and torque the boat upright.
@@bwhip With a submerged bag behind him, he has leverage. The further the distance between the bag and the hull, the less effort it takes.
@@wisenber The submerged bag produces no force until it's lifted out of the water. The maximum force is achieved when the bag is lifted completely out of the water. The righting moment increases the further away (laterally) you push the bag from the keel of the boat. Two hundred pounds of water will generate 0 ft-lb of torque if straight over the keel, 400 ft-lb of torque at 2 feet from the keel, and 800 ft-lb of torque at 4 feet from the keel. Pushing the heaviest weight you can handle, as far away from the keel as possible, will give you the best chance at righting the boat.
@@bwhip "The submerged bag produces no force"
No, but the person pulling it with a block does.
"The maximum force is achieved when the bag is lifted completely out of the water. "
No doubt, but a larger submerged bag used as a sea anchor allows the sailor to avoid holding a bag over his shoulder.
Perhaps a slightly bigger bag (a person worth) hoist on the pole and yourself on the rope. I got myself a 20ft cat and looking for a guaranteed way to undo my coming mistakes solo, a way that wouldn't be too cumbersome or too time consuming. I know I will seldom have company and I do not want that lack of company to be a hindrance.
The bag alone works very nicely - did you see this one:
ua-cam.com/video/1UyUZOP94-8/v-deo.html
@@JoyriderTV I have now, thx.
I am definitely not an expert on righting cats, but rather than having the bag on a block and tackle, just set the line length to the dolphin sticker to be long enough to get into the water and about the right distance to be able to lift it over your shoulder. Not going over the hull
Thanks for the tip!
I like your video so much! Thanx. The pleasure was mine too 😅
Thanks!
What about using the righting pole only for bags ( 2 or 3 ) and then add your weight next to it ? Maybe you can create a system that doesn't even require your weight to right the boat ?
That would be quite a contraption! My idea with this method was to keep it as simple as possible.
I used a bag when I had a Dart 18 and sailed solo . Couldn’t right the boat by myself .
So, the bags the better option . Easy to Stow away
Possibly essential for the solo sailor or lightweight crew that can’t right the boat .
Maybe consider testing bag size. Shorter and wider or a long bag , what overall volume / weight , a hoop to hold the bag open or flat pack bag for stowage. Hanging from the boat or attached to the sailor .
For a light / medium weight crew my Hurricane was a bit of a handful when we practiced capsize drill.
Our technique. - My crew had a bar type trapeze harness, you hook the righting line on the harness and lean out . I would then stand on the bar and as the boat came over slip of before pushing crew under water.
Yeah, the 'circus performer' technique is a great one. I'm a big fan of the bag, I just think something a bit bigger would be the best.
....and thinking completely outside the box; how about some sort of ballasting system to alter the buoyancy of the hulls (internally)...
Hmmmm. I don't know if i'll be able to do that with a roll of tape and bit of string!
Great video. I’ll make a bag system. What kind of bag are you using (brand), and where to get it? I can’t find your link to Amazon.
Thank you again. I’m a newcomer to Hobie 16, and really enjoy all of your videos.
This is an Aqua Lung bag (diving equipment) My original that worked very well was a gardening style bag.
www.amazon.com/shop/josephbennett?listId=24CVKW1IWIR85&ref=cm_sw_em_r_inf_list_pub_josephbennett_dp_5MuU1tMKUM1A2
Up to MK3
Coming soon......
Thanks for testing your pole theory to the bitter end. Would you be willing to test the shroud extension method? I know many people use it regularly even though demasting could be disastrous. Have you heard of anyone that unseated their mast doing this? There is even a Hobie part made for this (10049). Maybe there could be a way to secure the mast base before unleashing the shroud?
I'm really not keen on the shroud extension, the likelyhood of the mast coming down is too much.
@@JoyriderTV I know you are not keen , just thought I'd ask. What's needed is a way to secure the base temporarily (rotating stepping pin?)or if there were a shroud shortening device to go with the extender.
I gave up on my Sol cat 18 because I just couldn't right it by myself. I was going to make a righting Pole that stuck onto the rudder but I'm not sure it will work.
Let me know if it works.
Cheers
Where did you get that bag Joe???
I don't actually know. My initial tests were with a green garden waste bag which worked just as well
could you get me the brand name that is on the bag? It look like Aqu z ung from the video.
Joey - try Jenny Craig, buddy!!!
Ha!!! I had to look her up!
Sorry Joe but still hilarious!
😆
What do you think of that video ? It seems both effective and easy to use : ua-cam.com/video/NwZZX2ka820/v-deo.html
The man is 75kg, solo, and right his hc18 with 0 wind !
yeah, i've seen this, looks like it works perfectly.
It looks like i'll be swimming again once back on the water!
😄
Baby Bob and bag lol
I think that would certainly do it!
That pole ain’t gonna work if you don’t point to the bottom of the beam and not in the center... also consider finding some way to hang the bag on the pole! 🤣
Yes, Mk3 3 is going to be anchored at the bottom.
why? all that matters is force & distance from the center of rotation?
@@thudwarp not exactly... the distance from the center of rotation needs to be projected on the force direction to be correct. Since the force is gravity it acts on a vertical line, then the much more vertical is the pole the force increases. With the pole fixed to the center of the beam the pole-center of rotation distance has just a very little length on the vertical line
@@pietrobarili4906 nope - distance is perpendicular to force. It’s horizontal distance that matters
@@thudwarp yes sorry for my jet leg answer 🤪. Of course it is the perpendicular component that matters... in fact until both hull are in the water the boat rotates around a point called transversal metacenter point which is positioned a bit under the center of the beam. This means that when fixed to the center of the beam the righting pole has less leverage then when in the downside position
1 litre water = 1kg, the bag can carry 50kg, can the bag hold 50 litres of water? Bigger bag maybe😂
But getting it properly full for this purpose seems impossible -the most in that bag is probably around 30. Bigger bag would be the best.
Stick to the bag, man. Work smart not hard
That's what i think -it's just the demands of the Joyrider TV community that's keeping these poles coming.