Boxy Top Shoulder Adjustments: Why they slide back and how to fix it
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Have you ever sewn up a boxy top pattern and found that it’s constantly pulling towards the back, awkwardly choking you? If so this video is for you! Not only will I show you how to fix this issue, but you’ll also learn why this happens so you can take this info into your future sewing projects.
See part 2 here • Boxy Top Shoulder Adju...
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This is really helpful Jen! Also, so refreshing to watch a "real" video addressing the exact problem I have. P.S. I haven't had the choking problem with any of your patterns.
That's so good to hear, especially coming from you! And I would never do that to you 😉🤪
Thank you!!! Understanding the why and how makes it so much easier to remember for me. I also had this problem with the Wikston and eventually gave up on it. Maybe now I'll give it another try. 😊
I'm the same way, I have to know why and how or I'm never going to remember the what. I think you'll find you'll end up with a great top after making this adjustment - I did the same one to mine and it's what gave me the initial idea to make this video. I added 1" through the back of mine and it's very comfortable now.
I just want you to know you are the best sewing teacher!!! Love your patterns and LOVE when you do that throaty laugh I appreciate your sense of humor!
Aw thank you! You really made my day ❤and I'm so glad you're enjoying the patterns & video
content!!
Thank you so much! Your video made it clear and I am glad to know how to correct this. When I started sewing like 6 years ago, I got some of my first, favorite patterns from Grainline Studio. How beautifully and perfectly drafted they were. The Lark Tee is still my favorite and most made one ;))
This makes me so happy to hear, both about the patterns AND about the video being clear. I hope you get some good use out of this technique!
Thank you for your excellent explanation ❤
I have been doing this same alteration for my rounded back and forward head, on all patterns.
Would you be able to do a video on adjusting shoulder slope for square shoulders please?
That's awesome and such a good point - every body is different so even if a pattern has the height needed for their fit model through the back it might not be enough (or might be too much) for someone else. I'll definitely add the shoulder slope to my list, I've gotten so many amazing questions and suggestions just from this one video I need to sit down and do a little content planning. Thank you!
Helpful! But don’t understand exactly how to add additional length to only the back side of the sleeve. Additionally, I would need to adjust the neckline facing if there was one, correct? It would be helpful if you could address those two details. Thanks so much, Jen!
I will be making at least one follow up video based on all the excellent questions I'm getting and will be addressing the sleeve adjustment. For the sleeve, you're adding length to the armscye, which translates into making the sleeve wider, apologies if I was confusing there. You shouldn't need to adjust any neckline facings though because we're not altering the neckline at all with this adjustment.
This has been a huge lightbulb thank you so much, as this would also add that extra to the sleeve that would make a difference for me as well. Can’t wait to adjust my pattern and try.
Oh I'm so glad to hear! I'm going to do a follow up video about the sleeve as well because I've gotten a few questions about that, but I hope this info helps you make a successful top!
Thanks for this very useful and informative video. I love making boxy garments as they are economical with fabric and generate less waste. The only issue I have is the very problem you describe and I end up constantly pulling my top forward to stop the "choking" sensation. I too assumed it was my sloping shoulders. I've tried a forward shoulder adjustment on the Wiksten Shift (a favourite pattern), but it didn't solve the problem of it slipping backwards. I'm going to try your solution (in this case adding length in the back yoke). Again, thanks so much.
I think this should do the trick for that pattern, this is the same adjustment I did to the one I made. Hope it works out for you!
Thank you for clarifying this! I often experience this in garments, and now I know why and how to fix it :)
You're so welcome!
Loved this, thank you xx
So glad!
Totally agree. Why and how is key to understanding.
I’ve been needing this! I’ve made larger sizes and scooped the front neckline further but haven’t been able to fix this choking problem. Thank you!
You're welcome! I hope you have many successful boxy tops in your future!
That was so helpful, thanks Jen! I'm tracing a pattern for a boxy jacket today and noticed that it also has a front and back armscye that are the same. Would this also cause the jacket to fall back, or do things like a collar and front facings change how the jacket hangs, so it doesn't matter as much? I'll be making a muslin, so I'll hopefully find out, but I'd love to hear your thoughts!
So glad to hear! As for your jacket, and garments in general, the collars and front facings don't typically affect the fit of the body of the garment all that much. Of course there are exceptions to every rule but I can't imagine the collar of a typical jacket will affect the height of the armhole/shoulder seam. Of course it can raise the neckline, but that's typically separate from anything happening with the CF/CB or armhole slope measurements. I feel like I need to make an accompanying video or two based on all these amazing questions I'm getting!
Thank you! This was so helpfull! 🤩 You give a good explanation!❤
I’m so glad, thank you!
Thanks for the explanation. Well worth hearing
You're welcome, I'm so glad you found the information useful and hopefully helpful!
I appreciate your knowledge. Thank you for sharing...
I do have a problem. My 26 yr old granddaughter is a tall girl with a lot of busty girth. I am wondering how to increase the bust size and lower the apex to fit her. She has an upper bust measurement of 40 inches and a full bust of 47 inches with a waist of 45.5. What do I need to do to add to a pattern this bust adjustment? Thanks for you input.
This was an excellent tutorial. Thanks
Im so glad it was helpful!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great explanation!
Thanks!
Thank you for this Jen - so helpful in knowing the "why's"! A question - I have read that the shoulder seam shouldn't be seen from neither the front nor the back if it's in the correct position on top of the shoulders, but when you do this adjustment, won't the shoulder seam show from the front?
Nope! It will allow the shoulder seam to sit in the proper place, rather than pulling to the back. In the scenario I'm describing in these videos the shoulder seam is being yanked to the back due to the fact that there isn't enough height to the armhole. By adding that height in you're allowing the shoulder seam to sit at the proper point on the top of the shoulder. Does this make sense?
Yes, it makes sense. Can’t wait to try it! Thank you!
I like to know why and how and all that jazz too - it's why I love your tutorials and am loving this new "series" you are doing with these videos. I generally avoid "boxy tops" since I am curved and they are not and I figure they are really for new sewists who aren't yet interested in the work of fitting. And, frankly, they just don't look good on me. But, every so often, I try one out (read: Donny top) and am then reminded that, indeed, they look like a box on me! Regardless, this was super helpful and I love learning about drafting. one question -- since the Corin top is yours, have you already made the back armscye longer on it, or would one want to make the adjustment you explain here. Thanks for all you provide the sewing community, Jen!
I'm so glad you're enjoying the videos! And yep, the Corin has been drafted this way, as have the rest of our patterns. I hesitate to call what I'm explaining here an "adjustment" since it's just the way patterns should be drafted, with the upper back length longer than the upper front, and I think of adjustments as something that needs to be done to fit a particular person's body but I'm not sure what else to call it!
I"m going to give this a go as this is a perennial problem for me! If it turns out that for my top the back is already longer for the front but it's still sliding backwards - can I use the same strategy to add a little more height to back as perhaps the difference wasn't enough? Thanks! :)
You can definitely give it a try! It could be that it was tall enough for their fit model but you just need a little extra room, or honestly it could be something else entirely, but if it feels like the back is pulling up a bit when you set the shoulder seams on the center of your shoulders this is likely the problem.
@@GrainlineStudioSewing Amazing, thank you!! I might go have some fun comparing patterns :)
This is such a good and helpful piece - I definitely have trouble with tops(including shirts sometimes) “pitching back” and couldn’t work out what to do to fix it - but now I do! Thank you. But can I ask a related question?? I have a fitted shirt pattern which I have adapted via numerous toiles and the fit is spot on - except that there is usually a little bunch of fabric at the back of the sleeve where it meets the armscye. The first couple of times I made the shirt I thought I had misaligned the top of the sleeve cap but in the next version of the shirt I ensured that I followed the notches completely accurately and it is still “oversized” to the back (by about 11/2 inches of loose fabric). BUT I always do a narrow shoulder adjustment and don’t alter the sleeve cap. Is this the problem?..?…
I'm so glad you've found this helpful! Hmm as for your question, it's hard to say without seeing the pattern and fit. In theory the narrow shoulder adjustment shouldn't change the length of the armhole/armscye unless you're doing a large one and pivoting on the cut line instead of the sew line. Was it the same way in your first muslin?
Thank you for your very informative videos. Just want to make sure I understand: you don't do anything to the sleeve pattern, sew it into the new armhole?
No, sorry if I was confusing. You will need to add through the armscye in order to have the sleeve sew to the bodice properly after the adjustment shown in this video. I'm going to make a video on the sleeve adjustment as well as other awesome questions people are asking so I'll have that posted in the next week or two.
Is the corin top in need of this adjustment, or has it been drafted with the back longer than the front?
Thank you!
You shouldn’t need to adjust the Corin, it’s drafted with the upper back longer than the upper front
I have a smaller upper chest than all patterns. I reduce the height 1 inch and the width 1.3/4 inches. What sleeve adjustment should I make and is there anything else ?
I've got a video about sleeve adjustments scheduled for tomorrow so that should cover your q's!
Would a rounded back adjustment get you to a similar solution but without having to mess with the sleeve?
Mmmm I probably wouldn't sub one with the other. In a rounded back adjustment typically you're only lengthening the back at the center back, out to nothing at the armscye. In that case if the rounded back wasn't actually the problem, the shoulder seam would likely twisted with the front sitting normally at the neckline edge and pulling towards the back at the armhole edge.
@@GrainlineStudioSewing thanks so much for that explanation, makes sense and helps a lot! I'll give it a go!