Purchased my eu20i in 2014,connected a cheap digital hour meter almost the same place you put yours in. The generator has now done 207 hours,with an initial oil change at 20 hours then another at 50 and every 50 hours from then on. I never store my generator,I start it every month and run it for minimum 15-20 minutes have never drained the carb. Just add a small amount of fresh fuel every month. They are an excellent gen set,ease of starting and reliability you cant go past a Honda all day everyday.
We have been using Honda inverter generator for 30 years. Started with the 650, then to the 1000eu, and now the 2000eu. We have never drained the gas and the 2000 was bought in 2008. The best mod is the replacement fuel cap with the 6 gallon marine tank. No more filling in the dark. I highly recommend
I had a full tank of gas (with Stabil) in one of these since Sandy . Finally needed it today with the storm in the North East. 3 pulls this puppy fired right up and ran like a charm! Honda all the way!
Great advice! Old gas that's stayed in the carb leads to a lot of headache. What I do though, I tip the generator over and empty all the fuel. Then I run it until it stops.
Just bought 2 New yami’s for half the price n it came with a fuel shut off n hour meter , I am lookingforward for delivery soon,a lot of people commented on this video 👍 The Yamaha AI 2000 has a lot of options,thanks Costco
I think this is one of the best videos I’ve ever watched. Thank you for being conversational, informative and very clear with your information without repeating yourself. I love your laid back, intelligent way of presenting information.
Honda EU2000i has a simple hour meter function as part of the output indicator (green). As you start the generator watch the indicator light. No blinks = less than 100 hours, 1 blink = 100-200 hours, 2 blinks = 200-300 hours, and so on. Look in "Output Indicator" in "Controls & Features" in the owner's manual. (yeah, I know, who reads those?)
Great info here . My buddy just bought the newest Honda eu version of my eu2000 & it gas the 3 position switch run , gas off & just off so it doesn’t have the issue of bad carb due to sitting for a season or months . This company hutch mountain even offers a propane kit which is also a great option that’s easily converted to petro if needed . Gonna opt for the bad gas & propane setup for my unit .
Thanks for the post.. I just bought both the Hour Meter and the cut off for both of my generators. I had been draining the fuel after use the way the manual describes but it is a bit messy sometimes. I use my Honda generators on a boat and sometimes conditions aren't perfectly stable. I think this is a solution that will work for my situation. Thanks again!
I have this Generator. It is a nice unit. I 100% agree with the theory of the upgrade. What I do is run my generator until the gas is gone. Then I leave the gas cap open for awhile... I want all the gas outta the unit. I also do that for my lawn mowers at the end of the season. It has worked for me. Did you mention never ever use ethanol gasoline in small engines? Everyone already knows this...right?
UA-cam : "Convert Honda EU2200i EU2000i to propane without any conversion kit " You can buy a regulator, a valve and a hose and plug propane or LPG directly into the carb without a $300 kit, and leave the Honda relatively unaltered. A great instructional.
I have had myEU2000i since 2003. Still runs and is used often. Just bought a 3000 and that thing is as quiet as the 2000! The 3000 has a fuel switch and electric start and it makes me want to have the fuel switch idea on my 2000, Good idea for the switch, and the price is right too.
Great video Thanks for the tip on running it dry. Thanks for the propane tip. I add fuel stabilizer, much fewer issues. Haven't had to remove my car and clean it since I started doing that. Note - I got a bad EU2200i off Amazon and ended up having to remove the lock from the fuel trim. They have a little tab.... Like you see on a hot water tank... To stop you from making adjustments. That is just glued on with loctite, I heated mine up and took the lock right off. After that I could adjust the fuel - which is what I needed to do in an emergency situation!!! I went from totally unreliable to reliable. I never figured out root cause, but I was at sea level, and I think maybe the generator was set up for very high altitude. I will figure it out one day.... But when that Honda gives me trouble... I removed the carburetor and clean the hell out of it. Every single teeny tiny path and orifice. I then remove the lock so I can adjust the fuel. I then run a marine grade fuel stabilizer good for 2 years. I do full load testing quarterly. Love the dream
I put a 2 dollar gas shut off valve in the fuel line between the carb and the tank . All you do is take off the cover turn off the valve let it keep running till it stops . When you are ready to use it again you just open the gas valve .
The carb has a drain screw with a drain tube to let the gas out below the generator. Tilt the generator towards you to let all gas out. Tighten the drain screw when the float bowl is empty. Now to the most important part. Even if you drain the carb the jet might still plug with tarnished gas after prolonged storage and you are stuck with the same problem as if you did not drain the bowl. IMPORTANT: After draining the bowl then put the choke lever to the ON position and pull the starter rope once or twice. This will pull the remaining gas out of the jets and it is the drop of gas in the jets that cause the problems. When you take the lid off you can see the ON/OFF switch at the bottom just behind to the left, (towards the carb) the main ON/OFF breaker switch. As you turn the main switch you can see when the little switch is engaging/disengaging. When turning the main breaker switch from OFF slowly towards ON you can see when the little switch has its pin extended fully and ignition is ON. Gas is still off at this point. Alternatively, you can do this procedure after draining the carb, put the choke on and pull the rope to start. It will start briefly as it sucks the remaining gas from jets and then stops. Turn main breaker switch all the way off and you are ready for storage. I recommend always to use fuel conditioner STABIL (red) mixed with every gas fill for all seasonal equipment for troublefree use.
The main breaker switch has a dual function as when fully off it cuts ignition and fuel supply to the carb. Ideally, you want to cut fuel supply, empty carb by use of the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl and with ignition on pull the rope with full choke (ON). This cause the remaining fuel in the jets to be sucked out. You will hear it attempts to start and then it shuts off as fuel is no more available. This should be done to all engines before storing unless you mix the fuel with fuel stabilizers. (Stabil, red or blue). For extended storage, over 1 year it is recommended to add oil to the top of the cylinder and turn the engine. Always store with new oil in engine.
Just a FYI, the DC 12 volt output is not regulated, you need to run the generator in Eco mode to get the voltage down to about 15 V. Non eco mode puts out about 20 V. Thanks for sharing the video!!
Great video , I've always when filling up my five gallon gas jugs have Stil-Bilt gas stabilizer and Sea-Foam in the jugs and have never had a problem with any of my small engines using it . But running all the fuel out of a generator is wise , cause like me - my generator hasn't been started probably in two years . But the last time I used it I cleared it out by running it out . I was told when it starts to spudder out of gas to open the choke up and it'll suck out all the Rest of the fuel out of the system . I can work on them , we'll see in time if draining system will pay off . Thanks
Hey, I did just what you said with my EU2000i and added Sta-Bil to my fuel supply and used Mobil 1 Synthetic from day 1 with no problems. I actually just have a 2.5 gallon fuel can that I have pretreated for use with my EU2000i. I have had my EU2000i for about 8 years. I don't use it often and while it may take a few pulls (3-5) to start when I do use it. It would probably take just as many to start if I ran it dry. I know the more I use it the less I need to allow for drainage but since I've never done it in 8 years my guess is the fuel stabilizer has saved me some grief. Definitely use the Fuel Stabilizer people.
Easiest thing to do is run AV gas in it. It's a little more expensive than pump gas but it has a 3-5 year shelf life. Worth every penny for piece of mind. Starts every time no questions asked. Hour meter is a must for maintenance! Spend the money and buy the bracket, it is tucked out of the way and cleaner looking.
Have had one of the for several years, mainly to use with summer camping. At the end of the season I just shut off the gas cap and let it run until it starts spertering and then shut it off with the lower control. Can't be much gas left in the carburetor at this point. A very nice unit. Just change the oil and it will last for many years.
The eu2000i has an hour counter built in. Look at your user manual and you'll see there's a light that comes on and flashes after so many hours so you can service it on time. It's not very practical but it's there... Altering the controls of the generator voids the warranty but making holes in the shell doesn't. I brought my eu2000i with an hour counter installed on it to the Honda dealer and the warranty is still valid. The counter required to cut a rectangle in the body of the generator to insert it in then spliced into to the 12vdc inside the generator. I asked before installing it and my warranty was still good when the Honda clerk and mechanic saw the installation. Just think twice before cutting, you don't want to ruin this little beauty... Also, you can add all kind of bells and whistle as you wish on that generator if you know how. There's plenty of room for those small parts.
Having recently gone through the joy of completely stripping the carb down, cleaning it thoroughly, and then doing it a 2nd and 3rd time when I realized what thorough meant, it really should have a separate fuel cutoff. I wonder if adding an inline valve right off the tank might be a more subtle mod. Hour meter is a nice touch if you are running it a lot.
Honda is great, but I went with energizer 2000 and 3200. Why you ask. Wel, they're excellent quality and running parallel is soooooo much easier with only three connections necessary (and no tools required) as opposed to the hondas. Costs less than half of what 2 Honda 2000s would cost.
FYI guys, if you attach one of those vibration sensing hour meters, any vibrations, will make it operate. So just be aware if you're going to chuck that generator in the back of your truck for job site use. I got one off Amazon that senses the spark plug firing pulse instead.
Thanks, this makes sense and is simple and clean. I've been using the method like the others of shutting off the valve on the cap and creating a vacuum to starve it dry, but I always wondered if the vacuum was hurting anything.
very cool. i like the idea of the professional looking stickers. I also like the idea of the hour meter. and you are correct in that honda is the best hands down in class for generators. I cheaped out and bought a northern house brand in a cash [poor electricity deficient situation. i will be getting a honda in the future.
I have four EU2000i , the problem is stale gas and using gas with ethanol. Also there is a black plastic jet that is held in by an O-Ring. Some of these plastic jets don't have a hole in the bottom or there clogged. This plastic jet is the reason your generator doesn't run smooth on Economy Mode. Many videos on UA-cam showing how to unclog the Black Plastic Jet or drilling a hole in the bottom. After they do this the Generator runs great. I like the idea of turning off the gas and let it run dry but you also must drain the bowl.
@@djack41 you do not have to reconnect to start. However, in an emergency you would not be able to immediately shut the engine down without a switch which instantly opens the ignition circuit. Not having a kill switch is an unsafe way to operate the generator for this reason The new Honda eu2200i generator has this switch built in to the off/run knob. If you have a 2000i generator that is out of warranty it would be a good idea to add this feature for the convenience of running the carburetor dry before storing without having to remove the side cover and unplugging the switch each time. The switch kit is pretty cheap on Ebay.
Got a tiny honda 600 watt version the same size as this one which is nearly 35 years old. Had to clean the carburetor out to get it to run. It has the same 12 volt charge cable! Imagine that! I like this model you show. Might be time to upgrade.
Use the engineered fuel for storage. Better for the engine. Better for the oil longterm. If you want the carb clean you need to run a more pure fuel to keep the bad stuff from forming and drying on the carb. Condensation is always a concern but, run the engineered fuel until it empties and you are good. Start the generator with a splash of that fuel and it will fire 1st or second pull every time.
One major detail a lot of people don't talk about when comparing Honda/Yamaha against Chinese generators is copper vs. aluminum windings. Yes, this makes a big difference over time and under high load. That's why these will last decades if taken care of vs. appx 5 years (depending on use) for the cheaper units.
Very cool info. I have never seen these mods before. I am looking to pick up my own, and this would be cool. We carry one of these on our fire engine at work, but we run it at least once per week to keep the fuel moving.
the excepted method for draining the carb is to turn the gas cap off and let the EU2000i run down? Mine just saved me from freezing to death in Texas. Thanks lots of great comments here!!!
After having many gas powered tools and dirt bikes I've found that even when you drain it dry the ethanol still dries out rubber components. Even diaphragm style carbs get screwed up. I store everything wet, non ethanol fuel with stabilizer. So far so good. It is expensive fuel but saves the carb.
Great video! I don't understand that gasoline, not treated, can gum up in a short amount of time. I know Ethanol has a lot to do with this. Since I purchased my inverter close to 6 years ago, I have always used premium gas with no ethanol and I treat the gas with Seafoam, and left gas in my tank and carburetor for up to a year with no issues. For the first couple of years, I use to run them for 15 minutes or so every 3 months but some years I went a full year without starting them and never had gas issues. The propane option does look promising though.
We have 2 of them 1000 W and 2000 W and are almost every day running for like 4 to 6 hrs change the oil every 100 hrs fuel must be real clean in the gas can..never had any issues after 4 yrs..! so if you like to experiment with others like Harbour Freight be my guest and trow you money away..! I have a friend that still running his honda 2000 for 10 yrs..!
I just got one of those Ryobi 1.8KW (2300) inverter generators with the bluetooth connection... I got it specifically for that when I am camping... I can use my phone to see if I need to add fuel, see the estimated time I have left based on the current load ***AND*** the ability to shut the genny off at night without having to go outside.
Many in the comments below recommend to do your research before buying the Honda as the others are just as good. I don't know what research they did to make that determination but there are differences in manufacturing tolerances that make a difference relative to longevity, economy and emissions. Examine actual service manuals and look at the factory wear limits. Look at the piston to cylinder wall clearances. The Hondas are built to a much tighter tolerance which limits wear, fuel usage and emissions created. Many of the cheaper generator engines are not even rebuildable. They are considered "throw away engines". They don't make parts to rebuild them such as oversize pistons, possibly because there is no service dealer network to do the work. What about the convenience of finding repair parts when you need them ? There are Honda P/E dealers all over the country. I'm glad that there are options in the marketplace for different price points but it still remains that you can't buy a Mercedes for the price of a Chevrolet ...... granted they both get you where you're going :-)
Great video. Very informative. All knowledge and no guessing. After watching a "generator expert" the other night, I feel I need to say this and you might want to too if you do another video on generators. I saw a guy say that he adjusted his engine speed on his STANDARD generator, basically to save gas. Inverter generators, engine - alternator - inverter - plug, work differently than regular engine - generator - plug types. These generate power and regulate their voltage and frequency, (60 Hz or cycles if you prefer), by regulating the speed of the engine. The generator coils are spaced out in a particular way to give you 120 / 240 VAC at 60 Hz, (in north America), at a certain engine speed. Raise or lower the engine speed and you raise or lower the voltage and frequency. Things may still appear to operate but they won't last their full designed lifespan. Induction AC motors in refrigerators air conditioners and other appliances are designed to derive their rotational speed from the frequency of the power line / generator. They get their actual horsepower rating from the input voltage and current from the supply. While raising the speed of the generator may seem to give the motor more power on paper, the motor windings will overheat because they weren't made to operate at a higher voltage and the motor, which was made to operate at 60 Hz, will now be out of phase with the line power and actually be less efficient. If you lower the engine speed, you lower the voltage and frequency and actually reduce the wattage because the governor now sees the reduced speed as the new norm and will maintain 4000 watts instead of 5000 watts for example. Plus, as stated above, motors are speed set by the frequency of the input power. if you slow the generator, you slow the compressor motor and raise the temperature of your fridge, freezer, A/C unit and even a well water pump. Again, increasing heat because as voltage drops, current rises to attempt to do the same amount of work. It's like if you drive a car with a failing battery until it takes it's last breath, you can kiss your starter motor goodbye also in most cases. If everything is working properly, your starter may draw 150 amps to start the engine. All is well with the world. As the battery fails, it's peak available voltage begins to drop. If it falls to 11.5 volts, when you start the engine, it may now draw 200 or 250 amps instead of 150 amps. It may crank a little slower and start but the windings in the starter that were designed to work on 150 amps are now asked to carry 30% to 40% more than they should. You can get away with this until payday but if you use your car for stop and go deliveries, for example, equal to a fridge turning on and off while waiting for outside radiation to fall to a safe level, the motor won't last to the end of the month. Especially in a fridge where it may run for 30 or 40 minutes out of the hour if the room that it's in is hot rather than just a quick hit like a starter which will rest while you may drive three states away.. All the power wasted on this in either case will be dissipated as even more heat and will shorten the life of the unit. Things like modern electronics, while well regulated voltage wise can also be damaged by higher or lower frequencies than they are designed for causing excess heat build up in them also. Especially laptops and flatscreen TV's. All of the above ONLY applies to the OLDER style generators. In an inverter generator, It's basically the same as buying an outboard inverter at Walmart and connecting it to your car battery. The inverter generator has an alternator designed for it in it that puts out a certain amount of power at low idle. If you have the economy switch on and are running 3 light bulbs, the engine doesn't have to run at top speed to supply the power. This would be equal to running an outboard inverter clipped to your car battery with the engine off. With your generator, if you plug in a high draw device like a power saw, the econo switch circuit senses the added power requirement and raises the idle to meet it. This equal to plugging in the power saw to your car's unit. Now you have to start your engine to have the car's alternator back up what the battery can't supply. This isn't aimed at you but if people who are going to tamper with the mechanical or electrical workings of a generator, every aspect of that generator, out of the box, was designed to operate that way for a reason. If one changes something, there are always consequences to be had somewhere further down the food chain. The switch that you installed in your Honda is the exception to this rule. My first generator is a Coleman 5000 watt Powermate that we bought in 1998. We used for backup. It didn't occur to me to run out the carb and one night during an ice storm, I spent more time outside than in trying to keep it running. Honda should have included your switch in it's design. Another thought. I now have an electric start, 7000 watt TroyBilt wired into my house. I still have and loan out the Coleman but spinal problems prevent me from pulling 10 horses at the end of a rope. We didn't need to run it at night just for the window A/C unit, (my wife needs it for health reasons), so I went out and bought a small Champion 1400 watter just for this. I now have 3 generators and with every one, the first thing that I did after starting them for the first time was to plug in an AC voltmeter into every outlet. The Coleman came in at 120 / 240 volts as did the TroyBilt. The Champion came in at 133 volts. If the A/C compressor stayed on all the time, it would have loaded the UNDERPOWERED 80CC engine enough to bring the voltage down to an acceptable level. Being that it doesn't, when the compressor cuts out leaving the fan and electronic controls, 133 volts would have burned them out in short order. It didn't matter because as soon as the compressor tried to kick on after I set the generator to 120 volts, the engine practically stalled and the compressor's internal protection circuit kicked it back off. I kept this little generator anyway because it's light, it's so quiet you could practically sleep next to it and it works fine for loads that aren't so sensitive like lights, small power tools and resistive loads like heat guns and space heaters. I can't speak either way to the quality of the larger units in the Champion line but I wasn't happy that they put on the side of the box that mine would run refrigerators which are nothing more than an A/C in a box. Anyway, I just wanted to put out the hazards of tampering with generators and I'm glad that you have so many viewers. Hopefully, any of them who are thinking of going beyond what you did, won't.
I’ve had my Honda EU 2000 I generator for going on five years. It is a really good generator still. But I am having some problems and really the problems have been constant since I’ve owned it. It’s the first generator I’ve ever owned and I am a full-time camper. I’m a vagabond. I use the generator when it gets cold so I can run my electric blanket, or when my battery is drained and I don’t have time or the weather permitting to put my solar panel on. I’m living in a teardrop Roughrider camper trailer and I use an electric blanket to heat it. It sometimes could be shut off for three weeks at a time, which created a mishap on my part when I first bought it. I used it for about a month off and on and then I let it sit for maybe a month and I didn’t know I was supposed to drain the carburetor bowl so the gas wouldn’t gum up the jets. So I got to do my first carburetor tuneup to clean the jets, and it fired up after a number of pulls on the starter rope. Since then I haven’t had an issue with forgetting to drain the bowl when I’m not gonna use it for a while. But it is a bear to start up again after running out of gas or draining the bowl. And it always has been. There is no primer on it and sometimes I will pull the starter rope several times to try to get it to start. And that sometimes floods it. Then when it starts it bellows black smoke which fouls the plug. I’ve seen the videos on other ways to prep the generator for if you’re not going to use it for a little while but draining the bowls is easy from that little drain tube under then carburetor. It was how a Honda mechanic in Carson City Nevada suggested to me to do it and when it comes to the Honda generator he’s the most knowledgeable I’ve come across. I won’t get into why that is but I will just say that when four other Honda mechanics, who said they have been working on small engines for more than 30 years, they kept telling me my generator was too small to run the few things that I have in this little bitty camper. I don’t even have a refrigerator. I don’t have a heat and air. Nonetheless they told me I needed to get a companion generator to run side-by-side. The mechanic in Carson City fixed it within five minutes of listening to it. Draining the bowl is the same function as running out of gas. But I’ve been changing spark plugs pretty regular now because I’m flooding it and then whenever I do manage to get it to start it just bellows black smoke and then my spark plug gets pretty dirty. So, there is no primer to be able to fill the bowl without pulling the starter rope. What can I do to make this thing easier to start when draining the bowl and running out of gas. I’m running out of gas more often because I start it up around midnight and it runs about six or seven hours and that’s usually what wakes me up is when it shuts off. So it’s going to run out of gas. Any suggestions on how to fill the bowl up in the carburetor without having to continuously pull the starter rope. I’ve already placed that rope once.
You might try cleaning your spark arrester, and check inside the muffler for built up carbon. While you're in there, clean your fuel filter. Always a good idea to use non ethanol gas in any/all small engines as well. Seafoam is also excellent for everything. It helps your entire fuel system run smoother & last longer. Cleans fuel injectors & carburetor passageways. Cleans intake valves & chamber deposits. Lubricates upper cylinders. Safe for all gasoline & diesel engines.
I bought the pedrator to save some money and it only last 30 days I took back they gave me a new one then I used for 5 weeks and it was running rough so I took it back got my money put another $700 and got the Honda 2200 running g for 6 months now it’s a beast 👍
I also bought a Predator, the large 8500 Watt version, we used it for a few days straight and it worked, I let it sit for a few months and we could never got it to start again. It has been sitting unused for about 3 years now.
Thanks for this video. I have subscribed and will checkout your other stuff. Quick question. Can you show how to install my own switch. I live in Haiti, far away from Amazon and can’t readily get stuff. By the way I did check your link to amazon and it’s not in stock (probably because os the upgrade to that model).
Thank You for the great video! I’m currently looking at this one and the Yamaha that you mentioned. the Yamaha already comes with the fuel cut off switch what is your opinion between the two if you were to buy one today?
Earlier models of EU2000i do not have this feature. I do not know what year it was implemented. I have a 2008 model and it doesn't blink for runtime hours. Great generator!
The new Yamaha gen has a tap fitted to drain out any fuel left in the lines and carbi. Good idea. Should check out the new Yamaha, specs heaps better then the Honda. Cheers buddy 👍
I have the 2200 version, it has the proper fuel/ignition dial switch, great. But not enough to empty the bowl 100%, so better use the drain., too. But it's no fun having to crank it 10 times to re-fill that bowl afterwards...so why not add a chainsaw primer bulb with tees placed at the tank output, and the carb input ? (Echo makes nice bulbs + hoses, Skidoo nice fuel line tees).
Is the reason for plugging in the switch to enable the on/off toggle switch? If so why not just unplug and let the generator run out of fuel? Do you really need the switch when simply unplugging will accomplish the desired effect? Just asking
wouldnt the vibration meter activate when the generator is in your truck bed or on the back of the boat being transported to the mooring? They make a different kind that hooks up to your spark plug wire, I would think that is better no?
Or get the Yammy 2000 which already has the fuel shut off so you can run all the gas out of of the carb after anytime you use it. Works great , have had mine almost five years
We've had one of these for about 7 or 8 years now. Great little generator. I didn't like the "turn off" switch where the fuel would stay in the carb, so I just installed a nice metal fuel shut off switch in the top cover. That way I could just shut the fuel off, and let the generator run until it run the carb dry. Don't' even have to bother bypassing or changing the electronics. Hour meter is a good idea. As far as Fuel Stabilizer goes... Stabil is an Awful product in my opinion, had a lot of issues with it. The Best fuel stabilizer I have found and used for years is called PRI-G (for gasoline), and PRI-D (for diesel). It is more expensive, but it is also FAR Superior to stabil. Just add it to premium gasoline one time per year, and it will not only stabilize the fuel, but it will also keep the fuel fresh and boost its octane.
this helped me, thanks. i still dont really understand what i did, other than break the seal on the carb and re-assemble, but it started right after that. I used to shoot started fluid up into the carb through the drain tube, but didnt work this time. thanks for the hint on the switch mod.
I bought a HF Predator, 2500/2000 watt version, think I paid 500 for it several years ago. It was difficult to start and even the manual says to pull it 20 TIMES with switch off to get gas flowing, then switch to on and start pulling again. I've counted and pulled it 80-100 times (yes I counted) before it started. I'm getting older with back problems and so all of that yanking is now out of the question. Spend the money and get a Honda, I just wish these had an electric start.
You might want to double check that even with that devise the carb "runs dry". Just open up the bowl drain and tilt the unit toward you ( the drain is not at the very bottom) or crack the bowl loose with the 10 mm socket and see if any gas comes out. After having the carb apart, I kind of doubt that you can actually run the bowl dry with the way the pick is designed. I will test when I get mine back together. The other thing, I was checking out a company that made a propane conversion. A full 20 lb bottle only had a run time of like 5 hrs. That's crazy, If I run mine on gas, on eco throttle with minor draw, I can get 10 hrs. out of a tank of gas...that's like 6 times cheaper, even with gas as high as it is...I need to look into that more, I can't believe propane would be that inefficient...
I got the new EU2200i which comes with a fuel cut-off mode built into the main control rotary switch. The only thing I need to add is an hour meter. I'll probably get the one you have.
I just use the flat head screw located on the carb drain line to empty the carb bowl after each use. However, the fuel cutoff and kill switch kit should work too.
nice mods..i like the hour meter. to shut off fuel drill 2 holes in the side case and run the fuel line through both of them and pinch it off with a clothes pin to starve the engine of fuel.
I agree that a low cost proper numerical readout hour meter sounds nifty enough to add :) the lights are elegant but non-intuitive. That being said I would hope end users read the user manual.
I have a question, my EU2000i tripped but the 20A breaker in the front won't reset. it's like the button is broke it won't go in and out. Thanks great videos
Honda makes a great generator. Predator, a close second though....and at half the price. Having said that, if I needed to rely on a genset for business purposes, sure the Honda is the way to go. The Predator is more than fine for someone using genset causally and it's half the cost.
Bob, this was a great informative video. I have a honda EU3000. Do you know if that electronic bypass switch you installed on the 2000 will work on the 3000 also?
I'm so cheap that I drain the carb's fuel bowl and pour it back into the tank! I was using mine a couple of days ago and the vent knob on the gas cap broke. It has a small metal clip that goes through a plastic part that cracked in the cap. I ordered a billet aluminum item on Amazon for about $8.
I drain the bowl and I never use alcohol blend fuels in any of my hand held gas operated equipment. Always use non-alcoholic fuels. They do cost a little more a gal but the trade off is worth it. Gas will last for about a year. Stabilizers are just to keep alcohol-gas mix from separating. Great option though. Cheers
My Honda EU2000I generator is cutting out with the red overload indicator light coming on and thus stopping charging. This problem began in the last year after about 15years of perfect running and charging the batteries in my stand alone solar power system. Today, I borrowed a friend’s Honda EU2000I and after about 1hour of charging this problem occurred. I let it rest for a while and then restarted. After another 15mins of charging it again cut out. Any thoughts on this? Cheers and thanks for any reply. Bill.
I talked to the manufacture regarding the vibration hour meter, and will pick up vibrations while sitting in a moving vehicle.I have also heard that propane can damage the engine due to different ignition temperatures.
I have a dual fuel Sportsman 2200 W little suitcase portable generator I've only had propane running it. Will it be out a Honda of course not not running a rooftop air conditioner. Gasoline will eventually leave you stranded propane won't. Some say propane is more money but not really and here's why. I don't have to treat the fuel, have fuel problems, carburetor problems, dirty spark plug, dirty oil, hard start, or no start, Carbon on top of the piston and the cylinder head and more. The motor will last longer on propane or natural gas not gasoline. And propane specialist have told me they've never heard heard of a propane engine running lean like gasoline and burning up. Think about this all commercial and big 8,000 c 50,000 and above generators run natural gas or propane. none of them run gasoline gasoline is not even an option. because of all the problems. And these are the backup home generators and big business and government generators none of them run gasoline. Also propane and natural gas is super clean even smelling the propane exhaust is not as strong as gasoline exhaust. Propane never goes bad I had a tank that was about 30 years old it still burned. And sometimes I get a little bit of propane for free so that's a bonus.
I have run my dual fuel Sportsman 2200 watt propane and gasoline in freezing cold to scalding hot temperatures running. I've never had gasoline in it. Because I like to put the generator with a bag under it on the front seat of my truck after it airs out for a few minutes. With gasoline it could possibly tip over and be a real mess.
From my understanding you don't actually need that kit. If you turn the handle 3/4 of the way it'll do the same thing. At lease that's what I was told.
The switch wasn't necessary.....you can turn your factory switch just before the off position, and once it runs out of fuel, then turn it all the way to off.
Interesting! I looked in the current EU2000i operator's manual at the Honda website and this appears to be an un-documented feature. Is there a noticeable, tactile indent that you can feel as you turn the switch to know you're in the 'run-dry' position? This would make much of this modification entirely unnecessary for someone who is only using the generator under gasoline operation and who has no intention of modifying it for multi-fuel operation. Thank you!
EMS ForLife no noticable bump, but if you creep slowly to the off position while it is running and at the point it starts to turn off, turn it back bearly to keep it running.....the fuel valve will be off and the unit will run out of fuel in a minute or two. Then, turn it all the way to the off position.
Not to be a jerk, but ur suggested knob turn trick does not work on all model years of the Eu2000i. I like this dude’s mod. It’s clean without the guess work of getting the knob in the perfect position.
Devin Moore oh yes, I never said it wasn't a great job. , However, I would not have done that to my basically $1,000 Generator. I would have just unpluged the switch first if I didn't know about the knob position.
My understanding is you turn the fuel knob to Fuel Off, the motor keeps running until the float bowl is drained, then once the motor stops you turn the fuel knob to Off. Don't understand the need for the kit except the hour meter.
I own both an eu2000 and a pair of eu2200 Honda generators. They all already have a stock fuel cutoff that leaves the generator running until the carb bowl is empty...
The eu2200i has the fuel drain feature which came out the day after I bought the eu2000i but it was $100 more. Which I figured just add a petcock switch which cuts off the fuel. Might go with a electrical switch in future if the petcock goes bad.
I thought I read somewhere they designed it that way because they did not want the fuel system to run dry for purposes of keeping various parts lubricated
Installed the Hutch Mtn LP conversion and also a sit start capacitor on the Roof AC. The 2200 runs it no prob. And cheap. My calcs was 20hr/20# LP. Now if you could figure out how to keep them from getting stolen. 😒
Don't do this. Running the carb dry runs it too lean at the end unnecessarily. They put a perfect float bowl drain with a hose specifically to avoid this. It's quick and easy. Running it "dry" leaves fuel in the bowl that will gum up. You will regret it
Purchased my eu20i in 2014,connected a cheap digital hour meter almost the same place you put yours in.
The generator has now done 207 hours,with an initial oil change at 20 hours then another at 50 and every 50 hours from then on.
I never store my generator,I start it every month and run it for minimum 15-20 minutes have never drained the carb.
Just add a small amount of fresh fuel every month.
They are an excellent gen set,ease of starting and reliability you cant go past a Honda all day everyday.
We have been using Honda inverter generator for 30 years. Started with the 650, then to the 1000eu, and now the 2000eu. We have never drained the gas and the 2000 was bought in 2008. The best mod is the replacement fuel cap with the 6 gallon marine tank. No more filling in the dark. I highly recommend
That sounds smart. Do you have a link you can post as to where I can get one?
I had a full tank of gas (with Stabil) in one of these since Sandy . Finally needed it today with the storm in the North East. 3 pulls this puppy fired right up and ran like a charm! Honda all the way!
Great advice! Old gas that's stayed in the carb leads to a lot of headache. What I do though, I tip the generator over and empty all the fuel. Then I run it until it stops.
Just bought 2 New yami’s for half the price n it came with a fuel shut off n hour meter ,
I am lookingforward for delivery soon,a lot of people commented on this video 👍
The Yamaha AI 2000 has a lot of options,thanks Costco
I think this is one of the best videos I’ve ever watched. Thank you for being conversational, informative and very clear with your information without repeating yourself. I love your laid back, intelligent way of presenting information.
Haha your family.
ikr. I'd like to be the 'go to guy' when he decides to sell his stuff!
Honda EU2000i has a simple hour meter function as part of the output indicator (green). As you start the generator watch the indicator light. No blinks = less than 100 hours, 1 blink = 100-200 hours, 2 blinks = 200-300 hours, and so on. Look in "Output Indicator" in "Controls & Features" in the owner's manual. (yeah, I know, who reads those?)
Very useful tip, if you are going to buy one used. Thanks!
Great info here . My buddy just bought the newest Honda eu version of my eu2000 & it gas the 3 position switch run , gas off & just off so it doesn’t have the issue of bad carb due to sitting for a season or months . This company hutch mountain even offers a propane kit which is also a great option that’s easily converted to petro if needed . Gonna opt for the bad gas & propane setup for my unit .
Thanks for the post.. I just bought both the Hour Meter and the cut off for both of my generators. I had been draining the fuel after use the way the manual describes but it is a bit messy sometimes. I use my Honda generators on a boat and sometimes conditions aren't perfectly stable. I think this is a solution that will work for my situation. Thanks again!
I have this Generator. It is a nice unit. I 100% agree with the theory of the upgrade. What I do is run my generator until the gas is gone. Then I leave the gas cap open for awhile... I want all the gas outta the unit. I also do that for my lawn mowers at the end of the season.
It has worked for me. Did you mention never ever use ethanol gasoline in small engines? Everyone already knows this...right?
Probably best not to use ethanol based fuel, but most of the time, that option doesn’t exist especially when used for emergency use.
UA-cam : "Convert Honda EU2200i EU2000i to propane without any conversion kit "
You can buy a regulator, a valve and a hose and plug propane or LPG directly into the carb without a $300 kit, and leave the Honda relatively unaltered. A great instructional.
I have had myEU2000i since 2003. Still runs and is used often. Just bought a 3000 and that thing is as quiet as the 2000! The 3000 has a fuel switch and electric start and it makes me want to have the fuel switch idea on my 2000, Good idea for the switch, and the price is right too.
Love the Hour meter, matching color, looks factory! Well done, Thanks!
Great video
Thanks for the tip on running it dry.
Thanks for the propane tip.
I add fuel stabilizer, much fewer issues. Haven't had to remove my car and clean it since I started doing that.
Note - I got a bad EU2200i off Amazon and ended up having to remove the lock from the fuel trim. They have a little tab.... Like you see on a hot water tank... To stop you from making adjustments.
That is just glued on with loctite, I heated mine up and took the lock right off. After that I could adjust the fuel - which is what I needed to do in an emergency situation!!!
I went from totally unreliable to reliable. I never figured out root cause, but I was at sea level, and I think maybe the generator was set up for very high altitude.
I will figure it out one day.... But when that Honda gives me trouble... I removed the carburetor and clean the hell out of it. Every single teeny tiny path and orifice. I then remove the lock so I can adjust the fuel. I then run a marine grade fuel stabilizer good for 2 years.
I do full load testing quarterly.
Love the dream
I put a 2 dollar gas shut off valve in the fuel line between the carb and the tank . All you do is take off the cover turn off the valve let it keep running till it stops . When you are ready to use it again you just open the gas valve .
Great idea thanks!
Brilliant modification! I always make sure I run my carbs dry in all my equipment exactly for the reason you stated.
The carb has a drain screw with a drain tube to let the gas out below the generator. Tilt the generator towards you to let all gas out. Tighten the drain screw when the float bowl is empty. Now to the most important part. Even if you drain the carb the jet might still plug with tarnished gas after prolonged storage and you are stuck with the same problem as if you did not drain the bowl. IMPORTANT: After draining the bowl then put the choke lever to the ON position and pull the starter rope once or twice. This will pull the remaining gas out of the jets and it is the drop of gas in the jets that cause the problems.
When you take the lid off you can see the ON/OFF switch at the bottom just behind to the left, (towards the carb) the main ON/OFF breaker switch. As you turn the main switch you can see when the little switch is engaging/disengaging. When turning the main breaker switch from OFF slowly towards ON you can see when the little switch has its pin extended fully and ignition is ON. Gas is still off at this point. Alternatively, you can do this procedure after draining the carb, put the choke on and pull the rope to start. It will start briefly as it sucks the remaining gas from jets and then stops. Turn main breaker switch all the way off and you are ready for storage. I recommend always to use fuel conditioner STABIL (red) mixed with every gas fill for all seasonal equipment for troublefree use.
The main breaker switch has a dual function as when fully off it cuts ignition and fuel supply to the carb. Ideally, you want to cut fuel supply, empty carb by use of the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl and with ignition on pull the rope with full choke (ON). This cause the remaining fuel in the jets to be sucked out. You will hear it attempts to start and then it shuts off as fuel is no more available.
This should be done to all engines before storing unless you mix the fuel with fuel stabilizers. (Stabil, red or blue). For extended storage, over 1 year it is recommended to add oil to the top of the cylinder and turn the engine. Always store with new oil in engine.
My brother just gave me one of these. He said it needed to be cleaned out after every use, but now I know why! Thanks :)
Just a FYI, the DC 12 volt output is not regulated, you need to run the generator in Eco mode to get the voltage down to about 15 V. Non eco mode puts out about 20 V. Thanks for sharing the video!!
Great video , I've always when filling up my five gallon gas jugs have Stil-Bilt gas stabilizer and Sea-Foam in the jugs and have never had a problem with any of my small engines using it . But running all the fuel out of a generator is wise , cause like me - my generator hasn't been started probably in two years . But the last time I used it I cleared it out by running it out . I was told when it starts to spudder out of gas to open the choke up and it'll suck out all the Rest of the fuel out of the system . I can work on them , we'll see in time if draining system will pay off . Thanks
Hey, I did just what you said with my EU2000i and added Sta-Bil to my fuel supply and used Mobil 1 Synthetic from day 1 with no problems. I actually just have a 2.5 gallon fuel can that I have pretreated for use with my EU2000i. I have had my EU2000i for about 8 years. I don't use it often and while it may take a few pulls (3-5) to start when I do use it. It would probably take just as many to start if I ran it dry. I know the more I use it the less I need to allow for drainage but since I've never done it in 8 years my guess is the fuel stabilizer has saved me some grief. Definitely use the Fuel Stabilizer people.
Easiest thing to do is run AV gas in it. It's a little more expensive than pump gas but it has a 3-5 year shelf life. Worth every penny for piece of mind. Starts every time no questions asked. Hour meter is a must for maintenance! Spend the money and buy the bracket, it is tucked out of the way and cleaner looking.
Have had one of the for several years, mainly to use with summer camping. At the end of the season I just shut off the gas cap and let it run until it starts spertering and then shut it off with the lower control. Can't be much gas left in the carburetor at this point. A very nice unit. Just change the oil and it will last for many years.
The eu2000i has an hour counter built in. Look at your user manual and you'll see there's a light that comes on and flashes after so many hours so you can service it on time. It's not very practical but it's there... Altering the controls of the generator voids the warranty but making holes in the shell doesn't. I brought my eu2000i with an hour counter installed on it to the Honda dealer and the warranty is still valid. The counter required to cut a rectangle in the body of the generator to insert it in then spliced into to the 12vdc inside the generator. I asked before installing it and my warranty was still good when the Honda clerk and mechanic saw the installation. Just think twice before cutting, you don't want to ruin this little beauty... Also, you can add all kind of bells and whistle as you wish on that generator if you know how. There's plenty of room for those small parts.
Having recently gone through the joy of completely stripping the carb down, cleaning it thoroughly, and then doing it a 2nd and 3rd time when I realized what thorough meant, it really should have a separate fuel cutoff. I wonder if adding an inline valve right off the tank might be a more subtle mod. Hour meter is a nice touch if you are running it a lot.
There is a flathead screw under the carb that drains the carb.
the newer Hondas have an "OFF" and a "FUEL OFF" so you can run it out of gas. There is also a drain with a little fuel line on the carb bowl
Honda is great, but I went with energizer 2000 and 3200. Why you ask. Wel, they're excellent quality and running parallel is soooooo much easier with only three connections necessary (and no tools required) as opposed to the hondas. Costs less than half of what 2 Honda 2000s would cost.
FYI guys, if you attach one of those vibration sensing hour meters, any vibrations, will make it operate. So just be aware if you're going to chuck that generator in the back of your truck for job site use. I got one off Amazon that senses the spark plug firing pulse instead.
Thanks, this makes sense and is simple and clean. I've been using the method like the others of shutting off the valve on the cap and creating a vacuum to starve it dry, but I always wondered if the vacuum was hurting anything.
very cool. i like the idea of the professional looking stickers. I also like the idea of the hour meter. and you are correct in that honda is the best hands down in class for generators. I cheaped out and bought a northern house brand in a cash [poor electricity deficient situation. i will be getting a honda in the future.
I'm stoked dude - just found one of these trashed and needs new carb.
Nice find.
I just added a fuel shut off valve (petcock) in the exact same spot you put the switch.
Cheap and easy fix.
I'd rather splice an electrical line than a fuel line, but I'm sure either works fine.
I have four EU2000i , the problem is stale gas and using gas with ethanol. Also there is a black plastic jet that is held in by an O-Ring. Some of these plastic jets don't have a hole in the bottom or there clogged. This plastic jet is the reason your generator doesn't run smooth on Economy Mode. Many videos on UA-cam showing how to unclog the Black Plastic Jet or drilling a hole in the bottom. After they do this the Generator runs great. I like the idea of turning off the gas and let it run dry but you also must drain the bowl.
Top switch not necessary. Just unplug the lower factory switch
and it will continue to run until fuel runs out.
Yes but you have to reconnect to start.
@@djack41 you do not have to reconnect to start. However, in an emergency you would not be able to immediately shut the engine down without a switch which instantly opens the ignition circuit. Not having a kill switch is an unsafe way to operate the generator for this reason The new Honda eu2200i generator has this switch built in to the off/run knob. If you have a 2000i generator that is out of warranty it would be a good idea to add this feature for the convenience of running the carburetor dry before storing without having to remove the side cover and unplugging the switch each time. The switch kit is pretty cheap on Ebay.
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Got a tiny honda 600 watt version the same size as this one which is nearly 35 years old. Had to clean the carburetor out to get it to run. It has the same 12 volt charge cable! Imagine that! I like this model you show. Might be time to upgrade.
I own one of these generators and it’s an amazing unit.
I run mine every month to keep everything in good shape !
Great video and excellent tips
Bingo. At a minimum monthly. Use sta-bill and take note of how old fuel is. I also only use corn free fuel.
Use the engineered fuel for storage. Better for the engine. Better for the oil longterm. If you want the carb clean you need to run a more pure fuel to keep the bad stuff from forming and drying on the carb. Condensation is always a concern but, run the engineered fuel until it empties and you are good. Start the generator with a splash of that fuel and it will fire 1st or second pull every time.
One major detail a lot of people don't talk about when comparing Honda/Yamaha against Chinese generators is copper vs. aluminum windings. Yes, this makes a big difference over time and under high load. That's why these will last decades if taken care of vs. appx 5 years (depending on use) for the cheaper units.
Very cool info. I have never seen these mods before. I am looking to pick up my own, and this would be cool.
We carry one of these on our fire engine at work, but we run it at least once per week to keep the fuel moving.
USB plugs? On a generator? No thanks. Most people own probably 5 or even 10 of those USB adapters. Plug it in! Done!
the excepted method for draining the carb is to turn the gas cap off and let the EU2000i run down? Mine just saved me from freezing to death in Texas. Thanks lots of great comments here!!!
After having many gas powered tools and dirt bikes I've found that even when you drain it dry the ethanol still dries out rubber components. Even diaphragm style carbs get screwed up. I store everything wet, non ethanol fuel with stabilizer. So far so good. It is expensive fuel but saves the carb.
Mines been a real work horse.
I change the oil every 150 hours and the spark plug every year.
Great video! I don't understand that gasoline, not treated, can gum up in a short amount of time. I know Ethanol has a lot to do with this. Since I purchased my inverter close to 6 years ago, I have always used premium gas with no ethanol and I treat the gas with Seafoam, and left gas in my tank and carburetor for up to a year with no issues. For the first couple of years, I use to run them for 15 minutes or so every 3 months but some years I went a full year without starting them and never had gas issues. The propane option does look promising though.
I'm pretty sure gas doesn't tarnish, it does varnish though
@@robertbutler8004 No, fool. They're just two words that sound the same. Like "chair" and "hair"
@@robertbutler8004 Tarnish means to discolor, and varnish is a sticky yellow film that's left behind when gasoline evaporates.
@@JustMe-999a shit for brains
@@robertbutler8004 I think it's been settled that you're the illiterate shithead, Bobby.
We have 2 of them 1000 W and 2000 W and are almost every day running for like 4 to 6 hrs change the oil every 100 hrs fuel must be real clean in the gas can..never had any issues after 4 yrs..! so if you like to experiment with others like Harbour Freight be my guest and trow you money away..! I have a friend that still running his honda 2000 for 10 yrs..!
How can you keep track of the hrs ?
@@catrashoo You can add a meter $11 to $18..or when you start the motor check led lights blinks once 100 hrs..2..200 hrs...
I just got one of those Ryobi 1.8KW (2300) inverter generators with the bluetooth connection... I got it specifically for that when I am camping... I can use my phone to see if I need to add fuel, see the estimated time I have left based on the current load ***AND*** the ability to shut the genny off at night without having to go outside.
You call that camping?
Just bought 2 of those for my travel trailer and I learned the hard way about not installing that switch, it is necessary ...thanks!
Many in the comments below recommend to do your research before buying the Honda as the others are just as good. I don't know what research they did to make that determination but there are differences in manufacturing tolerances that make a difference relative to longevity, economy and emissions. Examine actual service manuals and look at the factory wear limits. Look at the piston to cylinder wall clearances. The Hondas are built to a much tighter tolerance which limits wear, fuel usage and emissions created. Many of the cheaper generator engines are not even rebuildable. They are considered "throw away engines". They don't make parts to rebuild them such as oversize pistons, possibly because there is no service dealer network to do the work. What about the convenience of finding repair parts when you need them ? There are Honda P/E dealers all over the country. I'm glad that there are options in the marketplace for different price points but it still remains that you can't buy a Mercedes for the price of a Chevrolet ...... granted they both get you where you're going :-)
Great video. Very informative. All knowledge and no guessing. After watching a "generator expert" the other night, I feel I need to say this and you might want to too if you do another video on generators. I saw a guy say that he adjusted his engine speed on his STANDARD generator, basically to save gas. Inverter generators, engine - alternator - inverter - plug, work differently than regular engine - generator - plug types. These generate power and regulate their voltage and frequency, (60 Hz or cycles if you prefer), by regulating the speed of the engine. The generator coils are spaced out in a particular way to give you 120 / 240 VAC at 60 Hz, (in north America), at a certain engine speed. Raise or lower the engine speed and you raise or lower the voltage and frequency. Things may still appear to operate but they won't last their full designed lifespan. Induction AC motors in refrigerators air conditioners and other appliances are designed to derive their rotational speed from the frequency of the power line / generator. They get their actual horsepower rating from the input voltage and current from the supply. While raising the speed of the generator may seem to give the motor more power on paper, the motor windings will overheat because they weren't made to operate at a higher voltage and the motor, which was made to operate at 60 Hz, will now be out of phase with the line power and actually be less efficient.
If you lower the engine speed, you lower the voltage and frequency and actually reduce the wattage because the governor now sees the reduced speed as the new norm and will maintain 4000 watts instead of 5000 watts for example. Plus, as stated above, motors are speed set by the frequency of the input power. if you slow the generator, you slow the compressor motor and raise the temperature of your fridge, freezer, A/C unit and even a well water pump. Again, increasing heat because as voltage drops, current rises to attempt to do the same amount of work.
It's like if you drive a car with a failing battery until it takes it's last breath, you can kiss your starter motor goodbye also in most cases. If everything is working properly, your starter may draw 150 amps to start the engine. All is well with the world. As the battery fails, it's peak available voltage begins to drop. If it falls to 11.5 volts, when you start the engine, it may now draw 200 or 250 amps instead of 150 amps. It may crank a little slower and start but the windings in the starter that were designed to work on 150 amps are now asked to carry 30% to 40% more than they should. You can get away with this until payday but if you use your car for stop and go deliveries, for example, equal to a fridge turning on and off while waiting for outside radiation to fall to a safe level, the motor won't last to the end of the month. Especially in a fridge where it may run for 30 or 40 minutes out of the hour if the room that it's in is hot rather than just a quick hit like a starter which will rest while you may drive three states away..
All the power wasted on this in either case will be dissipated as even more heat and will shorten the life of the unit. Things like modern electronics, while well regulated voltage wise can also be damaged by higher or lower frequencies than they are designed for causing excess heat build up in them also. Especially laptops and flatscreen TV's.
All of the above ONLY applies to the OLDER style generators. In an inverter generator, It's basically the same as buying an outboard inverter at Walmart and connecting it to your car battery. The inverter generator has an alternator designed for it in it that puts out a certain amount of power at low idle. If you have the economy switch on and are running 3 light bulbs, the engine doesn't have to run at top speed to supply the power. This would be equal to running an outboard inverter clipped to your car battery with the engine off. With your generator, if you plug in a high draw device like a power saw, the econo switch circuit senses the added power requirement and raises the idle to meet it. This equal to plugging in the power saw to your car's unit. Now you have to start your engine to have the car's alternator back up what the battery can't supply.
This isn't aimed at you but if people who are going to tamper with the mechanical or electrical workings of a generator, every aspect of that generator, out of the box, was designed to operate that way for a reason. If one changes something, there are always consequences to be had somewhere further down the food chain. The switch that you installed in your Honda is the exception to this rule. My first generator is a Coleman 5000 watt Powermate that we bought in 1998. We used for backup. It didn't occur to me to run out the carb and one night during an ice storm, I spent more time outside than in trying to keep it running. Honda should have included your switch in it's design.
Another thought. I now have an electric start, 7000 watt TroyBilt wired into my house. I still have and loan out the Coleman but spinal problems prevent me from pulling 10 horses at the end of a rope. We didn't need to run it at night just for the window A/C unit, (my wife needs it for health reasons), so I went out and bought a small Champion 1400 watter just for this. I now have 3 generators and with every one, the first thing that I did after starting them for the first time was to plug in an AC voltmeter into every outlet. The Coleman came in at 120 / 240 volts as did the TroyBilt. The Champion came in at 133 volts. If the A/C compressor stayed on all the time, it would have loaded the UNDERPOWERED 80CC engine enough to bring the voltage down to an acceptable level. Being that it doesn't, when the compressor cuts out leaving the fan and electronic controls, 133 volts would have burned them out in short order. It didn't matter because as soon as the compressor tried to kick on after I set the generator to 120 volts, the engine practically stalled and the compressor's internal protection circuit kicked it back off. I kept this little generator anyway because it's light, it's so quiet you could practically sleep next to it and it works fine for loads that aren't so sensitive like lights, small power tools and resistive loads like heat guns and space heaters. I can't speak either way to the quality of the larger units in the Champion line but I wasn't happy that they put on the side of the box that mine would run refrigerators which are nothing more than an A/C in a box.
Anyway, I just wanted to put out the hazards of tampering with generators and I'm glad that you have so many viewers. Hopefully, any of them who are thinking of going beyond what you did, won't.
I’ve had my Honda EU 2000 I generator for going on five years. It is a really good generator still. But I am having some problems and really the problems have been constant since I’ve owned it. It’s the first generator I’ve ever owned and I am a full-time camper. I’m a vagabond. I use the generator when it gets cold so I can run my electric blanket, or when my battery is drained and I don’t have time or the weather permitting to put my solar panel on. I’m living in a teardrop Roughrider camper trailer and I use an electric blanket to heat it. It sometimes could be shut off for three weeks at a time, which created a mishap on my part when I first bought it. I used it for about a month off and on and then I let it sit for maybe a month and I didn’t know I was supposed to drain the carburetor bowl so the gas wouldn’t gum up the jets. So I got to do my first carburetor tuneup to clean the jets, and it fired up after a number of pulls on the starter rope. Since then I haven’t had an issue with forgetting to drain the bowl when I’m not gonna use it for a while. But it is a bear to start up again after running out of gas or draining the bowl. And it always has been. There is no primer on it and sometimes I will pull the starter rope several times to try to get it to start. And that sometimes floods it. Then when it starts it bellows black smoke which fouls the plug. I’ve seen the videos on other ways to prep the generator for if you’re not going to use it for a little while but draining the bowls is easy from that little drain tube under then carburetor. It was how a Honda mechanic in Carson City Nevada suggested to me to do it and when it comes to the Honda generator he’s the most knowledgeable I’ve come across. I won’t get into why that is but I will just say that when four other Honda mechanics, who said they have been working on small engines for more than 30 years, they kept telling me my generator was too small to run the few things that I have in this little bitty camper. I don’t even have a refrigerator. I don’t have a heat and air. Nonetheless they told me I needed to get a companion generator to run side-by-side. The mechanic in Carson City fixed it within five minutes of listening to it. Draining the bowl is the same function as running out of gas. But I’ve been changing spark plugs pretty regular now because I’m flooding it and then whenever I do manage to get it to start it just bellows black smoke and then my spark plug gets pretty dirty. So, there is no primer to be able to fill the bowl without pulling the starter rope. What can I do to make this thing easier to start when draining the bowl and running out of gas. I’m running out of gas more often because I start it up around midnight and it runs about six or seven hours and that’s usually what wakes me up is when it shuts off. So it’s going to run out of gas. Any suggestions on how to fill the bowl up in the carburetor without having to continuously pull the starter rope. I’ve already placed that rope once.
You might try cleaning your spark arrester, and check inside the muffler for built up carbon. While you're in there, clean your fuel filter. Always a good idea to use non ethanol gas in any/all small engines as well. Seafoam is also excellent for everything.
It helps your entire fuel system run smoother & last longer.
Cleans fuel injectors & carburetor passageways.
Cleans intake valves & chamber deposits.
Lubricates upper cylinders.
Safe for all gasoline & diesel engines.
You need a series of golf cart 6volt batteries so you dont have to run the gen
.so much
I have a Honda 1000 and a Honda 2000. Just wondering if I can run these together in a series?
I bought the pedrator to save some money and it only last 30 days I took back they gave me a new one then I used for 5 weeks and it was running rough so I took it back got my money put another $700 and got the Honda 2200 running g for 6 months now it’s a beast 👍
I also bought a Predator, the large 8500 Watt version, we used it for a few days straight and it worked, I let it sit for a few months and we could never got it to start again.
It has been sitting unused for about 3 years now.
I have one of those and I love it. And it is really quiet.
Best small Generator ever made.
Convert to NG or propane, it never goes bad.
Thanks for this video. I have subscribed and will checkout your other stuff. Quick question. Can you show how to install my own switch. I live in Haiti, far away from Amazon and can’t readily get stuff. By the way I did check your link to amazon and it’s not in stock (probably because os the upgrade to that model).
Just stumbled by this video as i just bought this exact generator. Great video, thanks for the info!
Thank You for the great video! I’m currently looking at this one and the Yamaha that you mentioned. the Yamaha already comes with the fuel cut off switch what is your opinion between the two if you were to buy one today?
That is the best tip I've ever seen on the generator.
Barry
The Green run light blinks once for every hundred hours on startup
Thanks. Idk that handy tidbit.
Thanks for RTFM so we don't have to, lol
Earlier models of EU2000i do not have this feature. I do not know what year it was implemented. I have a 2008 model and it doesn't blink for runtime hours. Great generator!
The new Yamaha gen has a tap fitted to drain out any fuel left in the lines and carbi. Good idea. Should check out the new Yamaha, specs heaps better then the Honda.
Cheers buddy 👍
Honda has a drain on the carb just open a screw and let the fuel out none of this is needed.
I have the 2200 version, it has the proper fuel/ignition dial switch, great. But not enough to empty the bowl 100%, so better use the drain., too. But it's no fun having to crank it 10 times
to re-fill that bowl afterwards...so why not add a chainsaw primer bulb with tees placed at the tank output, and the carb input ? (Echo makes nice bulbs + hoses, Skidoo nice fuel line tees).
Is the reason for plugging in the switch to enable the on/off toggle switch? If so why not just unplug and let the generator run out of fuel? Do you really need the switch when simply unplugging will accomplish the desired effect? Just asking
wouldnt the vibration meter activate when the generator is in your truck bed or on the back of the boat being transported to the mooring? They make a different kind that hooks up to your spark plug wire, I would think that is better no?
Or get the Yammy 2000 which already has the fuel shut off so you can run all the gas out of of the carb after anytime you use it. Works great , have had mine almost five years
We've had one of these for about 7 or 8 years now. Great little generator. I didn't like the "turn off" switch where the fuel would stay in the carb, so I just installed a nice metal fuel shut off switch in the top cover. That way I could just shut the fuel off, and let the generator run until it run the carb dry. Don't' even have to bother bypassing or changing the electronics. Hour meter is a good idea.
As far as Fuel Stabilizer goes... Stabil is an Awful product in my opinion, had a lot of issues with it. The Best fuel stabilizer I have found and used for years is called PRI-G (for gasoline), and PRI-D (for diesel). It is more expensive, but it is also FAR Superior to stabil. Just add it to premium gasoline one time per year, and it will not only stabilize the fuel, but it will also keep the fuel fresh and boost its octane.
link to fuel shutoff so i can do this cleaner setup?
Just now seeing your videos for first time. Super great.. thanks
this helped me, thanks. i still dont really understand what i did, other than break the seal on the carb and re-assemble, but it started right after that. I used to shoot started fluid up into the carb through the drain tube, but didnt work this time. thanks for the hint on the switch mod.
I bought a HF Predator, 2500/2000 watt version, think I paid 500 for it several years ago. It was difficult to start and even the manual says to pull it 20 TIMES with switch off to get gas flowing, then switch to on and start pulling again. I've counted and pulled it 80-100 times (yes I counted) before it started. I'm getting older with back problems and so all of that yanking is now out of the question. Spend the money and get a Honda, I just wish these had an electric start.
Put a little fuel stabilizer in the gas, and relax, have a beer
Yep. Run it every now and then with a space heater on low hooked up to put a load on it.
PRI-G is another great Fuel stabilizer. 👌
Just run non ethanol
You might want to double check that even with that devise the carb "runs dry". Just open up the bowl drain and tilt the unit toward you ( the drain is not at the very bottom) or crack the bowl loose with the 10 mm socket and see if any gas comes out. After having the carb apart, I kind of doubt that you can actually run the bowl dry with the way the pick is designed. I will test when I get mine back together.
The other thing, I was checking out a company that made a propane conversion. A full 20 lb bottle only had a run time of like 5 hrs. That's crazy, If I run mine on gas, on eco throttle with minor draw, I can get 10 hrs. out of a tank of gas...that's like 6 times cheaper, even with gas as high as it is...I need to look into that more, I can't believe propane would be that inefficient...
I got the new EU2200i which comes with a fuel cut-off mode built into the main control rotary switch. The only thing I need to add is an hour meter. I'll probably get the one you have.
I wonder if ethanol-free gasoline would be better for it, like an outboard engine.
That’s all I put in mine
I just use the flat head screw located on the carb drain line to empty the carb bowl after each use. However, the fuel cutoff and kill switch kit should work too.
nice mods..i like the hour meter. to shut off fuel drill 2 holes in the side case and run the fuel line through both of them and pinch it off with a clothes pin to starve the engine of fuel.
there is a hour meter on this gen. read your manual, the output light blinks 1 time for every 100 hours on gen .
well, I suppose that's true, I prefer a more precise meter.
I agree that a low cost proper numerical readout hour meter sounds nifty enough to add :) the lights are elegant but non-intuitive. That being said I would hope end users read the user manual.
I think the blinking maxes out at 500 hours or 5 blinks...
I prefer the spark plug wire version of the hour meter. If you ever put that in a vehicle to take somewhere, you will rack up hours
Right read your manual
I have a question, my EU2000i tripped but the 20A breaker in the front won't reset. it's like the button is broke it won't go in and out. Thanks great videos
Honda makes a great generator. Predator, a close second though....and at half the price. Having said that, if I needed to rely on a genset for business purposes, sure the Honda is the way to go. The Predator is more than fine for someone using genset causally and it's half the cost.
Bob, this was a great informative video. I have a honda EU3000. Do you know if that electronic bypass switch you installed on the 2000 will work on the 3000 also?
You sound like a preacher. Not sold on the switch but the hour meter is a good idea so you can keep track of hrs. For oil changes.
its amazing being able to switch between gasoline, propane, and natural gas anytime though. That switch is king!
I'm so cheap that I drain the carb's fuel bowl and pour it back into the tank!
I was using mine a couple of days ago and the vent knob on the gas cap broke. It has a small metal clip that goes through a plastic part that cracked in the cap. I ordered a billet aluminum item on Amazon for about $8.
I drain the bowl and I never use alcohol blend fuels in any of my hand held gas operated equipment. Always use non-alcoholic fuels. They do cost a little more a gal but the trade off is worth it. Gas will last for about a year. Stabilizers are just to keep alcohol-gas mix from separating. Great option though. Cheers
Mickey Spillane you would have a better chance finding Bigfoot than finding non ethanol gas when you live in Long Island NY.
My Honda EU2000I generator is cutting out with the red overload indicator light coming on and thus stopping charging. This problem began in the last year after about 15years of perfect running and charging the batteries in my stand alone solar power system. Today, I borrowed a friend’s Honda EU2000I and after about 1hour of charging this problem occurred. I let it rest for a while and then restarted. After another 15mins of charging it again cut out. Any thoughts on this?
Cheers and thanks for any reply. Bill.
I talked to the manufacture regarding the vibration hour meter, and will pick up vibrations while sitting in a moving vehicle.I have also heard that propane can damage the engine due to different ignition temperatures.
I have a dual fuel Sportsman 2200 W little suitcase portable generator I've only had propane running it. Will it be out a Honda of course not not running a rooftop air conditioner. Gasoline will eventually leave you stranded propane won't. Some say propane is more money but not really and here's why. I don't have to treat the fuel, have fuel problems, carburetor problems, dirty spark plug, dirty oil, hard start, or no start, Carbon on top of the piston and the cylinder head and more. The motor will last longer on propane or natural gas not gasoline. And propane specialist have told me they've never heard heard of a propane engine running lean like gasoline and burning up. Think about this all commercial and big 8,000 c 50,000 and above generators run natural gas or propane. none of them run gasoline gasoline is not even an option. because of all the problems. And these are the backup home generators and big business and government generators none of them run gasoline. Also propane and natural gas is super clean even smelling the propane exhaust is not as strong as gasoline exhaust. Propane never goes bad I had a tank that was about 30 years old it still burned. And sometimes I get a little bit of propane for free so that's a bonus.
I have run my dual fuel Sportsman 2200 watt propane and gasoline in freezing cold to scalding hot temperatures running. I've never had gasoline in it. Because I like to put the generator with a bag under it on the front seat of my truck after it airs out for a few minutes. With gasoline it could possibly tip over and be a real mess.
The 2nd generation of the EU2200i has a factory “fuel off” switch and an hour meter with maintenance reminders on the Bluetooth app
From my understanding you don't actually need that kit. If you turn the handle 3/4 of the way it'll do the same thing. At lease that's what I was told.
You're correct, most folks seem to miss this point in the video!
Would this work in a generac 2200 inverter?
Love Honda generators. But now is the time for a solar generator.
The switch wasn't necessary.....you can turn your factory switch just before the off position, and once it runs out of fuel, then turn it all the way to off.
Interesting! I looked in the current EU2000i operator's manual at the Honda website and this appears to be an un-documented feature. Is there a noticeable, tactile indent that you can feel as you turn the switch to know you're in the 'run-dry' position? This would make much of this modification entirely unnecessary for someone who is only using the generator under gasoline operation and who has no intention of modifying it for multi-fuel operation. Thank you!
EMS ForLife no noticable bump, but if you creep slowly to the off position while it is running and at the point it starts to turn off, turn it back bearly to keep it running.....the fuel valve will be off and the unit will run out of fuel in a minute or two. Then, turn it all the way to the off position.
have you actually done this? I have the twin set up and therefore I have twice the reason to keep things clean.
Not to be a jerk, but ur suggested knob turn trick does not work on all model years of the Eu2000i. I like this dude’s mod. It’s clean without the guess work of getting the knob in the perfect position.
Devin Moore oh yes, I never said it wasn't a great job. , However, I would not have done that to my basically $1,000 Generator. I would have just unpluged the switch first if I didn't know about the knob position.
My understanding is you turn the fuel knob to Fuel Off, the motor keeps running until the float bowl is drained, then once the motor stops you turn the fuel knob to Off. Don't understand the need for the kit except the hour meter.
I have had mine for over 16 years and now has over 700 hrs
I write all the maintenance and use on the back of the cover with a sharpie. My EU is only used for hurricanes and unexpected power outages.
This kit came for the 2200 brigs and Stratton generator? Or it can be use because it look like a same but can you confirm that?
I own both an eu2000 and a pair of eu2200 Honda generators. They all already have a stock fuel cutoff that leaves the generator running until the carb bowl is empty...
Iam Your newest Subscriber I Have A EU1000i And A EU2000i They Love Mobil 1 Full Synthic Oil
The eu2200i has the fuel drain feature which came out the day after I bought the eu2000i but it was $100 more. Which I figured just add a petcock switch which cuts off the fuel. Might go with a electrical switch in future if the petcock goes bad.
Great video. Very informative thank you .
I thought I read somewhere they designed it that way because they did not want the fuel system to run dry for purposes of keeping various parts lubricated
Installed the Hutch Mtn LP conversion and also a sit start capacitor on the Roof AC. The 2200 runs it no prob. And cheap. My calcs was 20hr/20# LP.
Now if you could figure out how to keep them from getting stolen. 😒
Don't do this. Running the carb dry runs it too lean at the end unnecessarily. They put a perfect float bowl drain with a hose specifically to avoid this. It's quick and easy. Running it "dry" leaves fuel in the bowl that will gum up. You will regret it