at 14:55 a tip, add a mirrorless camera adaptor, and do remote photography with your phone app control, that will give live view so you can focus while seeing if it works, and can make marks so you know where to pose so you are in focus.
@@the120ist look up sinar, and the maker for its parts today [Jieying] they make adaptor tubes with lens boards attached to them, allowing the gg frame to be replaced with a mirrorless camera like the Fuji GFX systems in the standard directly, not as UA-camrs show a gg view through the glass, this adaptor replaces the Ground Glass frame entirely, so the cameras sensor becomes the film.[sinars have the same size board for front and back, so bellows/lens boards/ focus accessories are interchangeable between standards, no matter where you put them], a lf version of a modular camera, you buy the rail, std frames, cars etc once, then accessorise with individual parts according to genre, needs, and when money allows.
Of course with a super high tech spot meter and a remote control cable the natural thought progression for first shot of day is “oooh yes, dry plate!” That was a really nice way to ease me into my 6am Saturday. Metering and composition checks for selfies; wondering how long before someone comes up with a drone solution… As always, nicely paced and edited; no need to comment on your pics - you know I always enjoy them. I’ll go back and check out your original vid with the airforce. I’ve not used one, so my hot takes are gloriously uninformed by experience! For me, I find “entry level” ≠ “beginner” with view cameras; i think the less experienced and confident someone is, the greater the value of good solid engineering with measured shifts and finer gearing responses etc. Easier to learn the basic techniques and to then accurately assess what could have been done better when u get the sheets onto the light box. Once you’ve got realistic feel for how much tilts etc really impact the focus thru quite a bit of use, as it becomes second nature the “entry level” gear without the bells and whistles comes into its own. Dunno if the analogy is “training wheels” on a bike, or measuring vs free hand estimating in cooking; different folk have different strengths in those regards. No, none of this entirely relevant to your video, more of a forum comment ;-) Thanks again for sharing!
Hey Bernard! Thanks, as always, for your kind words. I actually totally agree with you on solid cameras for beginners. I started my LF journey with a huge Toyo Monorail, as you might have seen. I sold it because I wanted something easier to go walking with, but I look back now and I wonder if I would have been bitten by the bug so badly if I hadn't started with that camera. I was so easy to use, so sturdy and solid. At the time it seemed cumbersome, but it really was awesome. Everything worked, everything clicked into place with a satisfying thunk. So that's great advice for beginners, for sure. Training wheels seems like a good analogy - you're not supposed to winning races with training wheels, right? You're supposed to be learning with a safety net. And then once you've got a good grasp of it, then you can shake off the training wheels and mess yourself up. But if you started learning to ride on an expensive road bike, you'd spend all your time on your ass, and you'd probably give up. A wealth of wisdom as always! Thank you.
@@the120ist I kept threatening to buy a Toyo vx125, but in last few years have skyrocketed and could by a chamonix for the same price now. No £100 specials on those alas!
@@the120ist get a wooden landcamera from 1900s with at least 2 plate holders and a lens, check it has a tripod screw thread. Dont spend more than 400 euros
Thanks for taking us along on the field walk. I really want to get a field camera and a trio of lenses. I'm still getting set up to process black and white film and once that project is complete I'll start looking at a large format kit. I really need to read through the specs on these cameras so I can figure out which to buy that will do what I want to do. Those are some nice captures.
Go for it! Definitely sort out the BW processing at home first, I can't imagine the cost if I had to send out 4x5 sheets. The sheets are expensive enough! With the cameras, best advice would be don't overthink it! If you want new then there are only a handful of options. Pick something that fits your requirements and your budget, and get it done! There are no real duds out there, from what I've heard. But I would recommend the Stenopeika of course!
@@the120ist How/where do I find out what lenses are "best" for 4x5? I know "best" is not well defined, but there is probably some kind of consensus about where to start. I figure probably three -- something widish, something standardish, and something longish. But where do I start? Also, is there anything to watch out for on film holders? Thanks!
@@nvrumi Hey, sorry I missed this comment! How is your research coming along? Standard lens for 4x5 is considered a 150mm, equivalent of 50mm on 35mm. Personally I don't like the "standard" focal length on any format. My kit consists of a wide, a short telefoto and some weird and wacky lenses that I love using! I have a 65mm, which won't work on many 4x5 cameras (Intrepid is 90mm shortest from memory), it's super wide, almost 90 degree field. Then I have the 210mm which is useful for kind of wide-ish portraits. 210 is a very common lens on 4x5, lots of options to choose from. I also have a 135mm Carl Zeiss lens from the 1920s, and I have a range of brass lenses without shutters. Do you have a camera already? You'll need to check the maximum and minimum bellows extension before you go for your wide and long lenses. The Stenopeika has a very wide range for this type of camera, at 65-360. More common is 75-300. Film holders - I always stick with Toyo film holders, I've heard bad things about Fidelity. I've got a mix of new ones and second hand ones, and frankly I can't tell the difference.
Love this video, Nick! The camera is beautiful! Never shot with a 4x5, so thank you for showing the whole process of your day with this camera. Lots of adjustments on the camera but I think I understood what you were doing. You were brave setting up on rocky terrain with the water nearby! But you were hopping around deftly and got it done! Great shots and cool portraits of you and your daughter. Thanks for sharing your process. I learned a lot! 🙏🏻👍🏻
@@the120ist I’ve been hesitant because I don’t have the right development tank for this size, but I just bought a tank with the proper insert that develops 2 4x5 sheets! Also I’ve never scanned this size negative since I use a little Kodak scanner with a screen. But now I have a light panel so I’ll be trying that method. See you’ve inspired me to get out of my comfort zone! ☺️
@@the120ist Lol thanks Nick! You’re my biggest fan! I’m in the process of getting a pinhole 4x5 so I’ll really start my large format journey in about a month! If it’s ok with you, I’ll let you know when I post results on IG. Thanks again for your encouragement 👍🏻🙏🏻
Fab! I have a Dallmeyer Serrac 8" F/4.5 that I intend to use on my MPP MkVII 4x5 and maybe on my old wooden 5x7. Looking forward to the rest of the stuff you have planned.
@@MrBusby they’re interesting aren’t they? They can be fiddly, I’ve shot a few recently and had totally messed up results. But when they work they’re enjoyable. Definitely try some!
@@danienelphoto it’s beautiful isn’t it? That was another auction box find, cost me next to nothing, it was just lumped in with a load of other junk. I couldn’t believe such a small lens would have the coverage for 4x5, but it does! Same lens I used down your way near jhb to get the trees in the lake.
@@the120ist Serendipity, those finds are. I got a Tudor point and shoot chucked in the bag with the Mamiya C33 .... and I love it. I thought that tree shot had a familiar feel to it!
@the120ist Hi Nick! Love the video! Great work! I was wondering what kind of remote control that you're using? Haven't seen that thing anywhere. Care to share?
Whenever someone asks "what's that piece of equipment", the answer is almost always - Reveni Labs! Both quirky bits of kit in this video are from Matt at Reveni Labs, the spot meter and the remote release. Here's his website: www.reveni-labs.com Unfortunately I think the company is just Matt, making stuff in batches. So sometimes what you want is out of stock. But he'll get around to making some more, just keep watching for updates!
a question, with the 65mm lens, don't you have to "drop" the bed, like linhofs, etc. as wouldn't the bed be in the shot?, I just did a shoot with a sinar F2 and a 65 f5.6 Fujinon SWD in 6x12 ! and when I used the bellows + rod extender for the lens shade, the rod got in the shot!, so was wondering about the bed in this case, as with some chamonix alpinist x and other cameras, you CAN move the rear std forward enough to enable shooting with the front standard in the most forward hole on the track.
You don’t have to drop the bed, it’s very very close to being in frame. But it’s saved because the last inch or so of travel needed to get the proximity between the standards is done by bringing the rear standard forward. There are bolts either side of the base of the rear standard which give it about and inch and half of travel. I’ve never tried to introduce any movement with the 65mm, the bellows are tight as a drum at infinity anyway, but if you were able to then any downward tilt would almost immediately reveal the base board.
@@the120ist well I guess I'm the lucky one!, as on my sinar, I have bag bellows too, so no problem with movements with this wide angle lens. My sinar monorail can also 'adjust' the length of the rail (base of 15-30cm) and further extensions can be added or removed and the standards can be together, with the rail clamp behind the rear std. allowing for quite wide angle lenses to be used at infinity. For my sinar F2 shoot, I did some motion (rise, and slight swing's) with the 6x12 back, this alleviated some of it, due to format stretching allowing a wider coverage than a 6x6 or 4x5" film would have; so there is some capability, just not stacks of it.
@@the120ist one tip, if you can find one, use a recessed lens board, so that moves the std further away from the rear, moving the lens coverage cone further away from the base of the camera, giving some latitude for movements; also a SWD {Super wide} type of lens designation, which means the lens is designed to have infinity further away than the focal length of the lens, aka 75mm rather than the 65mm of focal length. some lenses, esp. the Linhof designated ones, are designed from the outset for these limited movements (the Bed, or Field/press camera designs) giving users more possible lens choice for their cameras.
@@andyvan5692 If I remember correctly, my Toyo monorail cold only manage about 90mm without a recessed board, you just physically couldn't get the standards close enough, even if you took the clamp apart and moved both to one one end of the rail. This Stenopeika could actually go a bit closer than 65mm, it's definitely possible to get past infinity on the 65mm. Although how long the bed stays out of frame is definitely a question. As I said, on the 65 it's very close!
@@andyvan5692 Thats really interesting, so there are some lenses that are built the opposite from tele lenses, in that they are effectively "longer" than their focal length? I did not know that! Recessed board is definitely something I need to look into. I had various recessed options for my monorail, but for some reason my brain hasn't thought about recessed boards for some time. But of course you're right. Off to search ebay I go!
I have two Stenopeikas, a 5x7 and a custom made 11x14. If someone is interested to try large format photography, I strongly recommend to buy a 5x7 instead of a 4x5. They are still very manageable regarding size or weight and cost only a little more if at all, but they produce pictures nearly 4x larger than those of a 4x5 camera. To me, 4x5 is simply to small to be presented in a frame or hang on a wall without enlarging, while 5x7 is just large enough for that.
@@Dahrenhorst ooh interesting! I haven’t tried 5x7, I always figured things like film would be less widely available because it’s a less popular size. But I totally agree with you about the size of 4x5, it’s definitely not big enough to display at that size. For the traditional enlarging process, it’s still a huge step up from 35mm or MF, but still pretty small when you hold on your hand.
@@the120ist 5x7 film is as easy (or difficult) to get as 4x5, and - just like the cameras - not much more expensive. I actually take pictures mostly directly on photographic paper and develop them as positives. That is a bit more tricky than using film, but no rocket science. This is not only much cheaper, but you also produce unique originals, which you can directly show to an interested audience.
@@Dahrenhorst I've also been doing a lot of paper reversal, and really enjoying it for those reasons! It's great. And so much cheaper than film! I've never been temped by 5x7 though, mainly because I'm thinking that if I go up in size, why not just go straight to 8x10? One thing I can say for sure, is that paper reversal on 4x5 does create disappointingly small pictures! I definitely need more real estate. More on that coming very soon, Watch this space!
interesting recommendation, as one would surmise that 4x5 is commonly recommended as a start, as further size increase is not only material cost, but observable decrease in depth of field, so focussing is way harder, as any mm mistake can mean a wasted shot, which does cost a lot, as well as the fully manual nature of the cameras, so an easy in, and minimal adjustments are what are in this, so people don't get frustrated out, to keep the film and camera industry going and increasing its membership, which is ALL Photographers goal, to keep things cheap and plentiful for us all; and to come home with well exposed negatives, which we can print & hang on our wall proudly.
@@andyvan5692 Hmm, well, we are talking large format photography here. If you can correctly focus a 4x5, you also can correctly focus a 5x7, that's not that much different or more difficult. And those who can afford 4x5 large format photography, can also afford 5x7, since the cost of equipment and material is not that much different. People need to realize that analog photography is not a cheap endeavor anyways, regardless of film format. The most important difference is truly the size of the negative. With 5x7 you can make contacts and have sizable picture in your hand to frame or to hang at a wall, with 4x5 you have to invest into a quite costly enlarger (and even more focusing and dust problems) to be able to do that. 4x5 is simply to small to use it for presentation purposes.
@@danienelphoto ha haaa! How long have you been sitting waiting for me to upload??!? It’s been like a month since the last one. Tell me you haven’t been there the whole time??
at 14:55 a tip, add a mirrorless camera adaptor, and do remote photography with your phone app control, that will give live view so you can focus while seeing if it works, and can make marks so you know where to pose so you are in focus.
How do you mean a mirrorless camera adapter? You mean like set up a mirrorless camera behind the 4x5, facing the GG?
@@the120ist look up sinar, and the maker for its parts today [Jieying] they make adaptor tubes with lens boards attached to them, allowing the gg frame to be replaced with a mirrorless camera like the Fuji GFX systems in the standard directly, not as UA-camrs show a gg view through the glass, this adaptor replaces the Ground Glass frame entirely, so the cameras sensor becomes the film.[sinars have the same size board for front and back, so bellows/lens boards/ focus accessories are interchangeable between standards, no matter where you put them], a lf version of a modular camera, you buy the rail, std frames, cars etc once, then accessorise with individual parts according to genre, needs, and when money allows.
Beautiful video, looking forward to the paper and developer tests and the portrait box!
Thank you! Tests coming very soon now!
Of course with a super high tech spot meter and a remote control cable the natural thought progression for first shot of day is “oooh yes, dry plate!”
That was a really nice way to ease me into my 6am Saturday.
Metering and composition checks for selfies; wondering how long before someone comes up with a drone solution…
As always, nicely paced and edited; no need to comment on your pics - you know I always enjoy them.
I’ll go back and check out your original vid with the airforce. I’ve not used one, so my hot takes are gloriously uninformed by experience!
For me, I find “entry level” ≠ “beginner” with view cameras; i think the less experienced and confident someone is, the greater the value of good solid engineering with measured shifts and finer gearing responses etc. Easier to learn the basic techniques and to then accurately assess what could have been done better when u get the sheets onto the light box. Once you’ve got realistic feel for how much tilts etc really impact the focus thru quite a bit of use, as it becomes second nature the “entry level” gear without the bells and whistles comes into its own.
Dunno if the analogy is “training wheels” on a bike, or measuring vs free hand estimating in cooking; different folk have different strengths in those regards.
No, none of this entirely relevant to your video, more of a forum comment ;-)
Thanks again for sharing!
Hey Bernard! Thanks, as always, for your kind words. I actually totally agree with you on solid cameras for beginners. I started my LF journey with a huge Toyo Monorail, as you might have seen. I sold it because I wanted something easier to go walking with, but I look back now and I wonder if I would have been bitten by the bug so badly if I hadn't started with that camera. I was so easy to use, so sturdy and solid. At the time it seemed cumbersome, but it really was awesome. Everything worked, everything clicked into place with a satisfying thunk. So that's great advice for beginners, for sure.
Training wheels seems like a good analogy - you're not supposed to winning races with training wheels, right? You're supposed to be learning with a safety net. And then once you've got a good grasp of it, then you can shake off the training wheels and mess yourself up. But if you started learning to ride on an expensive road bike, you'd spend all your time on your ass, and you'd probably give up.
A wealth of wisdom as always! Thank you.
@@the120ist I kept threatening to buy a Toyo vx125, but in last few years have skyrocketed and could by a chamonix for the same price now. No £100 specials on those alas!
11:43 beautiful. I love this camera : smal and lightweight (extension is awesome) but I prefer 5x7 format
@@chriscard6544 that’s a couple of shouts here in the comments for 5x7… maybe I need to give it a try!!
@@the120ist get a wooden landcamera from 1900s with at least 2 plate holders and a lens, check it has a tripod screw thread. Dont spend more than 400 euros
@@chriscard6544 I'll keep an eye out. I have a half plate camera in good nick, haven't got a far as doing anything purposeful with it yet!
@@the120ist wow cool
👌😎 awesome video Nick keep it up well interesting!!
Cheers mate! Check out the light one, I reckon you'll like that.
Thanks for taking us along on the field walk. I really want to get a field camera and a trio of lenses. I'm still getting set up to process black and white film and once that project is complete I'll start looking at a large format kit.
I really need to read through the specs on these cameras so I can figure out which to buy that will do what I want to do.
Those are some nice captures.
Go for it! Definitely sort out the BW processing at home first, I can't imagine the cost if I had to send out 4x5 sheets. The sheets are expensive enough!
With the cameras, best advice would be don't overthink it! If you want new then there are only a handful of options. Pick something that fits your requirements and your budget, and get it done! There are no real duds out there, from what I've heard. But I would recommend the Stenopeika of course!
@@the120ist How/where do I find out what lenses are "best" for 4x5? I know "best" is not well defined, but there is probably some kind of consensus about where to start. I figure probably three -- something widish, something standardish, and something longish. But where do I start?
Also, is there anything to watch out for on film holders?
Thanks!
@@nvrumi Hey, sorry I missed this comment! How is your research coming along? Standard lens for 4x5 is considered a 150mm, equivalent of 50mm on 35mm. Personally I don't like the "standard" focal length on any format. My kit consists of a wide, a short telefoto and some weird and wacky lenses that I love using! I have a 65mm, which won't work on many 4x5 cameras (Intrepid is 90mm shortest from memory), it's super wide, almost 90 degree field. Then I have the 210mm which is useful for kind of wide-ish portraits. 210 is a very common lens on 4x5, lots of options to choose from.
I also have a 135mm Carl Zeiss lens from the 1920s, and I have a range of brass lenses without shutters.
Do you have a camera already? You'll need to check the maximum and minimum bellows extension before you go for your wide and long lenses. The Stenopeika has a very wide range for this type of camera, at 65-360. More common is 75-300.
Film holders - I always stick with Toyo film holders, I've heard bad things about Fidelity. I've got a mix of new ones and second hand ones, and frankly I can't tell the difference.
Love this video, Nick! The camera is beautiful! Never shot with a 4x5, so thank you for showing the whole process of your day with this camera. Lots of adjustments on the camera but I think I understood what you were doing. You were brave setting up on rocky terrain with the water nearby! But you were hopping around deftly and got it done! Great shots and cool portraits of you and your daughter. Thanks for sharing your process. I learned a lot! 🙏🏻👍🏻
@@anthonys_expired_film Anthony! Thank you so much. I do love this camera. How come you haven’t tried 4x5 yet? Maybe it’s time??!
@@the120ist I’ve been hesitant because I don’t have the right development tank for this size, but I just bought a tank with the proper insert that develops 2 4x5 sheets! Also I’ve never scanned this size negative since I use a little Kodak scanner with a screen. But now I have a light panel so I’ll be trying that method. See you’ve inspired me to get out of my comfort zone! ☺️
@@anthonys_expired_film Yeeeeeeah! Go Tony! But the time you read this you should already be hooked!
@@the120ist Lol thanks Nick! You’re my biggest fan! I’m in the process of getting a pinhole 4x5 so I’ll really start my large format journey in about a month! If it’s ok with you, I’ll let you know when I post results on IG. Thanks again for your encouragement 👍🏻🙏🏻
Fab!
I have a Dallmeyer Serrac 8" F/4.5 that I intend to use on my MPP MkVII 4x5 and maybe on my old wooden 5x7.
Looking forward to the rest of the stuff you have planned.
@@liveinaweorg ah that Dallmeyer should be beautiful. I do love Dallmeyer lenses!
Love the glass plates. I need to try some of those. Great video. As usual.
@@MrBusby they’re interesting aren’t they? They can be fiddly, I’ve shot a few recently and had totally messed up results. But when they work they’re enjoyable. Definitely try some!
@@the120ist they are awesome, they handle overexposure. Contrasted with UV but not meant for women portraits. Tintypes are too hard to handle
Thank you.
Thank you!
That lens without the shutter is cool. Really nice rendering.
@@danienelphoto it’s beautiful isn’t it? That was another auction box find, cost me next to nothing, it was just lumped in with a load of other junk. I couldn’t believe such a small lens would have the coverage for 4x5, but it does! Same lens I used down your way near jhb to get the trees in the lake.
@@the120ist Serendipity, those finds are. I got a Tudor point and shoot chucked in the bag with the Mamiya C33 .... and I love it. I thought that tree shot had a familiar feel to it!
@the120ist Hi Nick! Love the video! Great work! I was wondering what kind of remote control that you're using? Haven't seen that thing anywhere. Care to share?
Whenever someone asks "what's that piece of equipment", the answer is almost always - Reveni Labs! Both quirky bits of kit in this video are from Matt at Reveni Labs, the spot meter and the remote release. Here's his website: www.reveni-labs.com
Unfortunately I think the company is just Matt, making stuff in batches. So sometimes what you want is out of stock. But he'll get around to making some more, just keep watching for updates!
a question, with the 65mm lens, don't you have to "drop" the bed, like linhofs, etc. as wouldn't the bed be in the shot?, I just did a shoot with a sinar F2 and a 65 f5.6 Fujinon SWD in 6x12 ! and when I used the bellows + rod extender for the lens shade, the rod got in the shot!, so was wondering about the bed in this case, as with some chamonix alpinist x and other cameras, you CAN move the rear std forward enough to enable shooting with the front standard in the most forward hole on the track.
You don’t have to drop the bed, it’s very very close to being in frame. But it’s saved because the last inch or so of travel needed to get the proximity between the standards is done by bringing the rear standard forward. There are bolts either side of the base of the rear standard which give it about and inch and half of travel. I’ve never tried to introduce any movement with the 65mm, the bellows are tight as a drum at infinity anyway, but if you were able to then any downward tilt would almost immediately reveal the base board.
@@the120ist well I guess I'm the lucky one!, as on my sinar, I have bag bellows too, so no problem with movements with this wide angle lens.
My sinar monorail can also 'adjust' the length of the rail (base of 15-30cm) and further extensions can be added or removed and the standards can be together, with the rail clamp behind the rear std. allowing for quite wide angle lenses to be used at infinity. For my sinar F2 shoot, I did some motion (rise, and slight swing's) with the 6x12 back, this alleviated some of it, due to format stretching allowing a wider coverage than a 6x6 or 4x5" film would have; so there is some capability, just not stacks of it.
@@the120ist one tip, if you can find one, use a recessed lens board, so that moves the std further away from the rear, moving the lens coverage cone further away from the base of the camera, giving some latitude for movements; also a SWD {Super wide} type of lens designation, which means the lens is designed to have infinity further away than the focal length of the lens, aka 75mm rather than the 65mm of focal length.
some lenses, esp. the Linhof designated ones, are designed from the outset for these limited movements (the Bed, or Field/press camera designs) giving users more possible lens choice for their cameras.
@@andyvan5692 If I remember correctly, my Toyo monorail cold only manage about 90mm without a recessed board, you just physically couldn't get the standards close enough, even if you took the clamp apart and moved both to one one end of the rail. This Stenopeika could actually go a bit closer than 65mm, it's definitely possible to get past infinity on the 65mm. Although how long the bed stays out of frame is definitely a question. As I said, on the 65 it's very close!
@@andyvan5692 Thats really interesting, so there are some lenses that are built the opposite from tele lenses, in that they are effectively "longer" than their focal length? I did not know that!
Recessed board is definitely something I need to look into. I had various recessed options for my monorail, but for some reason my brain hasn't thought about recessed boards for some time. But of course you're right. Off to search ebay I go!
I have two Stenopeikas, a 5x7 and a custom made 11x14. If someone is interested to try large format photography, I strongly recommend to buy a 5x7 instead of a 4x5. They are still very manageable regarding size or weight and cost only a little more if at all, but they produce pictures nearly 4x larger than those of a 4x5 camera. To me, 4x5 is simply to small to be presented in a frame or hang on a wall without enlarging, while 5x7 is just large enough for that.
@@Dahrenhorst ooh interesting! I haven’t tried 5x7, I always figured things like film would be less widely available because it’s a less popular size. But I totally agree with you about the size of 4x5, it’s definitely not big enough to display at that size. For the traditional enlarging process, it’s still a huge step up from 35mm or MF, but still pretty small when you hold on your hand.
@@the120ist 5x7 film is as easy (or difficult) to get as 4x5, and - just like the cameras - not much more expensive. I actually take pictures mostly directly on photographic paper and develop them as positives. That is a bit more tricky than using film, but no rocket science. This is not only much cheaper, but you also produce unique originals, which you can directly show to an interested audience.
@@Dahrenhorst I've also been doing a lot of paper reversal, and really enjoying it for those reasons! It's great. And so much cheaper than film!
I've never been temped by 5x7 though, mainly because I'm thinking that if I go up in size, why not just go straight to 8x10?
One thing I can say for sure, is that paper reversal on 4x5 does create disappointingly small pictures! I definitely need more real estate. More on that coming very soon, Watch this space!
interesting recommendation, as one would surmise that 4x5 is commonly recommended as a start, as further size increase is not only material cost, but observable decrease in depth of field, so focussing is way harder, as any mm mistake can mean a wasted shot, which does cost a lot, as well as the fully manual nature of the cameras, so an easy in, and minimal adjustments are what are in this, so people don't get frustrated out, to keep the film and camera industry going and increasing its membership, which is ALL Photographers goal, to keep things cheap and plentiful for us all; and to come home with well exposed negatives, which we can print & hang on our wall proudly.
@@andyvan5692 Hmm, well, we are talking large format photography here. If you can correctly focus a 4x5, you also can correctly focus a 5x7, that's not that much different or more difficult. And those who can afford 4x5 large format photography, can also afford 5x7, since the cost of equipment and material is not that much different. People need to realize that analog photography is not a cheap endeavor anyways, regardless of film format.
The most important difference is truly the size of the negative. With 5x7 you can make contacts and have sizable picture in your hand to frame or to hang at a wall, with 4x5 you have to invest into a quite costly enlarger (and even more focusing and dust problems) to be able to do that. 4x5 is simply to small to use it for presentation purposes.
I am first. Just laying the claim. Will comment after watching, if I have something constructive to add! 😂
@@danienelphoto ha haaa! How long have you been sitting waiting for me to upload??!? It’s been like a month since the last one. Tell me you haven’t been there the whole time??
does ur mommy know ur online.
@@dmystify1381 you caught me. She doesn’t. I shall ring her now and confess.
@@the120ist Been checking my subscriptions tab with baited breath!
@@danienelphoto haha! I’m going to make sure I get the first comment on your next vid now.