Dale: thanks for the video. Now trying to rid of 3 mounds. Got that your #1 pick/video helped see ant activity of each mound. I am now after pesticide on mound. Each day watering and rubbing mound till zero mound left into the grass or trying to. To kill the queen is the key but they are persistent species. Good video Dale..JAdams/MS./USA
Thanks! I just had them start popping up again in new areas. I’m actually surprised you guys have those issues. Folklore in this area say that our recent mild winters have allowed them to thrive. Hoping you have luck getting rid of yours!
Thanks, well done. All three of those products are contact killers, so if you stir up the nest and even dig down into the soil with a metal stick so as to get as many ants as possible in contact with it, it will work best. I have used the Bifenthrin pesticide ( in your first product) with good success, and it is the cheapest here in Australia too, called "Ant Killa".
Honestly the Orthene Fire Ant Killer is the most effective for mounds. The fact that you don’t have to water it in afterwards keeps the little devils from stinging too!
Hi! Thanks for asking! I’m no expert but I will give your question a shot at answering. Baits are used in the homes or on mounds where the locations are unknown. These types of killers used in the video are considered contact killers. The purpose of this type of killer and method is so that the granulars dissolve and penetrate into the mound further and deeper. This allows the killer to spread thoroughly within the mound and contacting many ants. Additionally, even when dried the contact killer stays active for multiples weeks.
It poisons the lower living ants who feed and mate with the queen..Water is key with dry conditions to seep through specific soil area to carry the poison further down the colony.
I have used all these and all will kill the mound but aints will come back and make new mounds. Now i am switching to bait and it will destroy the queen. But you have to keep repeating every year because your neighbor will keep sending them to your yard
Informative video. But when applying granules it's ok to open up mound even tho some don't recommend that. If so sprinkle at least 2 feet around mound , open up real fast apply real fast the water in rt after. In the south we deal with this issues. But just applying the rt way will allow the poison to act and actually kill surface and feet's blow ground ant bed mound. Ps. Yull rather be generous with the posing vs to little to kill surface and deep ant beds that big we're at the min a million ants bed home counting the ones far underneath ant bed ground if not a few will die and the other larger half will just simply relocate feet's away from their old bed. And it all go to wast if you don't kill the queen ant .Larva, pupa, Eggs and tiny baby to adults ants as well.
Over n out with no water still does an amazing job it’s like it burns the mound up but to darn expensive
Dale: thanks for the video. Now trying to rid of 3 mounds. Got that your #1 pick/video helped see ant activity of each mound. I am now after pesticide on mound. Each day watering and rubbing mound till zero mound left into the grass or trying to. To kill the queen is the key but they are persistent species. Good video Dale..JAdams/MS./USA
Thanks! I just had them start popping up again in new areas. I’m actually surprised you guys have those issues. Folklore in this area say that our recent mild winters have allowed them to thrive. Hoping you have luck getting rid of yours!
I’ve found Orthene fire ant killer powder works extremely well. Better than the granule baits.
me too. only problem is the smell LOL
Totally agree. Orthene is the way to go. That mound killer plus the granules helps them stay gone.
I'm finding that as well
Thanks, well done. All three of those products are contact killers, so if you stir up the nest and even dig down into the soil with a metal stick so as to get as many ants as possible in contact with it, it will work best. I have used the Bifenthrin pesticide ( in your first product) with good success, and it is the cheapest here in Australia too, called "Ant Killa".
Honestly the Orthene Fire Ant Killer is the most effective for mounds. The fact that you don’t have to water it in afterwards keeps the little devils from stinging too!
I’ve been bit by so many ants 😂. One wrong step and next thing you know you are two stepping in the back yard lol
I only watched this video because the thumbnail had a kick-ass camper top for his truck in the background. Nice.
Hahahaha thanks man!
Thought this was supposed to be a bait to carry to the nest, what was the purpose of adding water and dissolving the bait?
Hi! Thanks for asking! I’m no expert but I will give your question a shot at answering. Baits are used in the homes or on mounds where the locations are unknown. These types of killers used in the video are considered contact killers. The purpose of this type of killer and method is so that the granulars dissolve and penetrate into the mound further and deeper. This allows the killer to spread thoroughly within the mound and contacting many ants. Additionally, even when dried the contact killer stays active for multiples weeks.
@@DaleDoesItAll7 months later..the idea of granules is that the ants can carry them down to the queen. You should not water!
It poisons the lower living ants who feed and mate with the queen..Water is key with dry conditions to seep through specific soil area to carry the poison further down the colony.
Why do you water the mounds after ?
@@trulysurprised-bk7cy helps for the poison to enter the hive. Each product instructions say to do so.
very good, thanks!
No problem!
I have used all these and all will kill the mound but aints will come back and make new mounds. Now i am switching to bait and it will destroy the queen. But you have to keep repeating every year because your neighbor will keep sending them to your yard
I actually have had reoccurrence even using the cheaper stuff, but the #1 rated video did not reoccur.
In all 3 mounds, all that occurred was the mound moved a few feet over. This is not how to kill fire ants iMHO
I’m sorry it’s not working for you! Let us know what you find to be effective! I’m always up to try something new on these things!
Modo the preporcion
Please read the instructions first next time.
Will do!!! Thanks for watching!
If you don't follow the instructions your opinion is worthless.
Yes! Please follow instructions! I read each bag and followed the instructions closely. Thanks for your comment!
I wonder if ammonia would work on these fire ants.
Probably! But I don’t know if it would kill the hive as effectively.
The spectracide is garbage and that's the one I bought
I sorry you bought that! So far the garden tech has worked great for all our mounds!
Yeah unfortunately it’s cheap for a reason. :/
Informative video. But when applying granules it's ok to open up mound even tho some don't recommend that. If so sprinkle at least 2 feet around mound , open up real fast apply real fast the water in rt after. In the south we deal with this issues. But just applying the rt way will allow the poison to act and actually kill surface and feet's blow ground ant bed mound. Ps. Yull rather be generous with the posing vs to little to kill surface and deep ant beds that big we're at the min a million ants bed home counting the ones far underneath ant bed ground if not a few will die and the other larger half will just simply relocate feet's away from their old bed. And it all go to wast if you don't kill the queen ant .Larva, pupa, Eggs and tiny baby to adults ants as well.