When using an endmill I find it best to take multiple more shallow cuts instead of going straight to the final depth. This allows for less pressure to be on the cutter, allows for a nicer surface finish and ensures that any discrepancies (like a loose bit) are fixed before reaching final dimensions. Aside from that I thoroughly enjoyed this video and your enthusiasm for learning new trades. Can't wait for more.
Thanks Angus! On the last few cuts, I did try taking shallower/more passes, and I too noticed better results. So I think I'll be implementing your advice in future. :)
The deeper your cuts, the more “chatter “ in your end mill, meaning “wobble” in the end mill. Seat your tooling as deep on the shaft as you can for the truest rotation. When it comes down to finish cuts or surfaces, you may want to manually measure how much you have left. Using the DRO is very handy but it isn’t always 100%, when it comes to finish width and depth cutting. Don’t go cheap on tooling, you’ll spend more on replacing them. If you use air to clear your chips, be very cautious and always wear eye pro. You did great even with the minor issues.
The 10mm end mill I was using was an expensive carbon one, which I read up on and apparently they like to be "worked hard" hence why I wasn't using cutting oil and was keeping the RPM at about 1200 throughout. Towards the end I was experimenting with shallower cuts, and there was definitely less chatter, I was kinda experimenting with each groove a different technique to see which worked best. Learning as I go. :)
You aren’t wrong not using cutting oil while working aluminum. But it is good to clear the chips. Coolant (not radiator coolant) is useful for aluminum cuts.I was meaning when you are drilling/tapping steel. It’s messy but it’ll help a lot. Tap Magic is available thru Amazon. Excellent work!
Well done man. I think you will want to paint the magnets or they will begin to rust and I think they will breakdown quickly. The silver coating protects them from oxidation.
Get a couple of 1-2-3 blocks and a set of parallels, help capture your work in level increments. Parallels allow for drill throughs to be vertical. .020 to .050 deep cuts for aluminum with a slow feed, clear your chips with either a brush or air as you cut. The chips will wear out your tooling prematurely.
Yes, your dial indicator is your friend. Good practice to check for true in both x and y axis prior to each set up. Also verify your z axis (head tilt) prior to precision milling and drilling. It’ll save your tooling, and lessen your frustrations.
When you dial in your vise always put the indicator on the non moving jaw. Typically the one in the back. The movable jaw always has some play in it. Also you can put your vise on zero on your degree fing and loosen the 2 nuts that hold the vise to the table. Then your degree ring will be correct. Nice concept on your surface jig.
Nice work! Also I literally snapped that exact same tap wrench in the exact same way like two days ago. tekton brand I believe. I’m forging myself a replacement
Awesome ingenuity!! Please don’t take my previous comments as being a critic. Just suggestions to help your processes develop. Prep is your friend. It’ll save your tooling and make your production repeatable.
I really don't mind. I'm open to suggestions as I'm gonna be a sponge for learning this new skill, so don't spare my feelings if it helps me to get better. :)
(realizing this is an older video and you may know by now) If you ever break the tap wrench again, or just for straighter holes, put your cutter in your mill chuck and turn it from there.
Nicely done! Looks are always second to function in my book. You definitely need some sort of welding cap, preferably with earflaps - that spark did not look enjoyable! 😬
It wasn't too bad... I'm used to getting spatters fairly frequently as I'm a firm advocate of safety flip flops, but the ear just felt a bit violating. 😂
@@PJTForging Penetration is important when welding, but not that kind... I don't know if you held your han on top of your head to keep the sparks out or to prevent glare in the glass, but a cap or hood would help with both!
@@CrudeButEfficient may have to look into that then. I've got a few new pieces of PPE on the way, so at some point I will probably add this to the list.
Now, be honest, did you run back in to the house to show your girlfriend the broken tap wrench and do a bit of flexing? In the words of Jon Pall Sigmarsson - "Too much power!"
hmmm yeah thats pretty bad : look intoo tramming on youtube , as its not just the vice but allso the millinghead that can be slightly out of line and that can drive you bonkers if you dont noticed it before as for the welding helmet , i see you have problems with light shining against the back of the welding lens preventing you from seeing clearly , wat helps is wearing a hoodie over the helmet or ataching a piece of dark cloth to the edge of the hood so the open end is covered up a taping wrench isnt all that hard to make and is actually a nice beginners project , can probably reuse most parts of the old tapwrench after you remade the broken part
A surface grinder uses a grinding wheel, not emery belts. You even called the machine a sander. I’m trying to find an actual home made surface grinder.
i always get excited when a video comes out
Thanks Saint Tuna! (Fan-bloody-tastic name!) 😂
When using an endmill I find it best to take multiple more shallow cuts instead of going straight to the final depth. This allows for less pressure to be on the cutter, allows for a nicer surface finish and ensures that any discrepancies (like a loose bit) are fixed before reaching final dimensions.
Aside from that I thoroughly enjoyed this video and your enthusiasm for learning new trades. Can't wait for more.
Thanks Angus! On the last few cuts, I did try taking shallower/more passes, and I too noticed better results. So I think I'll be implementing your advice in future. :)
The deeper your cuts, the more “chatter “ in your end mill, meaning “wobble” in the end mill. Seat your tooling as deep on the shaft as you can for the truest rotation. When it comes down to finish cuts or surfaces, you may want to manually measure how much you have left. Using the DRO is very handy but it isn’t always 100%, when it comes to finish width and depth cutting. Don’t go cheap on tooling, you’ll spend more on replacing them. If you use air to clear your chips, be very cautious and always wear eye pro. You did great even with the minor issues.
The 10mm end mill I was using was an expensive carbon one, which I read up on and apparently they like to be "worked hard" hence why I wasn't using cutting oil and was keeping the RPM at about 1200 throughout. Towards the end I was experimenting with shallower cuts, and there was definitely less chatter, I was kinda experimenting with each groove a different technique to see which worked best. Learning as I go. :)
You aren’t wrong not using cutting oil while working aluminum. But it is good to clear the chips. Coolant (not radiator coolant) is useful for aluminum cuts.I was meaning when you are drilling/tapping steel. It’s messy but it’ll help a lot. Tap Magic is available thru Amazon. Excellent work!
Well done man. I think you will want to paint the magnets or they will begin to rust and I think they will breakdown quickly. The silver coating protects them from oxidation.
Great video, I want to low class surface grinder too. You gave me tons of good ideas.
You can press a nut on a tap in the vise and use a wrench or socket to turn it..
Very awesome build!
Thanks CJ!
Wow. That’s pretty dang cool! Can’t wait to see the projects you’re planning with it. BTW, I grew up near Bay Ridge.
I've never been! But really want to go. Maybe once we've escaped the Coronaverse.
Get a couple of 1-2-3 blocks and a set of parallels, help capture your work in level increments. Parallels allow for drill throughs to be vertical. .020 to .050 deep cuts for aluminum with a slow feed, clear your chips with either a brush or air as you cut. The chips will wear out your tooling prematurely.
I've actually bought some 123 blocks which arrived today, at some point I will invest in some parallels as well. :)
Yes, your dial indicator is your friend. Good practice to check for true in both x and y axis prior to each set up. Also verify your z axis (head tilt) prior to precision milling and drilling. It’ll save your tooling, and lessen your frustrations.
All noted. Thank you. :)
Just brilliant 🤩
When you dial in your vise always put the indicator on the non moving jaw. Typically the one in the back. The movable jaw always has some play in it. Also you can put your vise on zero on your degree fing and loosen the 2 nuts that hold the vise to the table. Then your degree ring will be correct. Nice concept on your surface jig.
Don't worry about it. It will work as is
Nice work! Also I literally snapped that exact same tap wrench in the exact same way like two days ago. tekton brand I believe. I’m forging myself a replacement
I think I'm gonna do exactly the same.😅
When you indicate your vise in, indicate off of the fixed jaw of the vise.
Neither are fixed, it's a mid clamping vice.
@@PJTForging ok gotcha, it's foreign to me to see people indicating off the front jaw.
@@alangliniak9514 good advice though if I ever swap to my other vice!
Awesome ingenuity!! Please don’t take my previous comments as being a critic. Just suggestions to help your processes develop. Prep is your friend. It’ll save your tooling and make your production repeatable.
I really don't mind. I'm open to suggestions as I'm gonna be a sponge for learning this new skill, so don't spare my feelings if it helps me to get better. :)
(realizing this is an older video and you may know by now) If you ever break the tap wrench again, or just for straighter holes, put your cutter in your mill chuck and turn it from there.
Where did you find your carriage system? What is something like that called? Love the under the bench idea!
It's called a linear rail, I got mine from alibaba. 😅
@@PJTForgingThank you!
Hi, very nice! I have one question for the orientation of the magnets: same polarity on top (I.e. N N N...) or changing (N S N S....)?
Makes no difference, they'll all stick to steel in any orientation so long as the item you want to clamp isn't also magnetic.
Nicely done! Looks are always second to function in my book. You definitely need some sort of welding cap, preferably with earflaps - that spark did not look enjoyable! 😬
It wasn't too bad... I'm used to getting spatters fairly frequently as I'm a firm advocate of safety flip flops, but the ear just felt a bit violating. 😂
@@PJTForging Penetration is important when welding, but not that kind... I don't know if you held your han on top of your head to keep the sparks out or to prevent glare in the glass, but a cap or hood would help with both!
@@CrudeButEfficient may have to look into that then. I've got a few new pieces of PPE on the way, so at some point I will probably add this to the list.
Why hell yeah 👍🏻
Now, be honest, did you run back in to the house to show your girlfriend the broken tap wrench and do a bit of flexing? In the words of Jon Pall Sigmarsson - "Too much power!"
Unfortunately, no... but I should have! 💪😎
Omg please share plans
Такі вони китайські станочки, тут добре, а там кривенько. В загальному добра робота, успіхів!
FYI, you may want to make smaller cuts...
Yeah, learned this the hard way the further in I got. 😅
Two words...Cutting Oil
Yessir! :D
Same for the tap. Using oil will help it cut through your holes, just like a drill bit.
hmmm yeah thats pretty bad : look intoo tramming on youtube , as its not just the vice but allso the millinghead that can be slightly out of line and that can drive you bonkers if you dont noticed it before
as for the welding helmet , i see you have problems with light shining against the back of the welding lens preventing you from seeing clearly , wat helps is wearing a hoodie over the helmet or ataching a piece of dark cloth to the edge of the hood so the open end is covered up
a taping wrench isnt all that hard to make and is actually a nice beginners project , can probably reuse most parts of the old tapwrench after you remade the broken part
A surface grinder uses a grinding wheel, not emery belts. You even called the machine a sander. I’m trying to find an actual home made surface grinder.