I was given a Big 10 that had been sitting for a while but luckily it was stored inside. After I got it I even got a call that they had found a rototiller and snow blower for it so went back to New York to get them also. The tractor is in great condition for a 64 just needed some normal maintenance stuff except it was over heating. I found a huge mouse house in the shroud which meant I had pull the engine. I remembered something you had said about the drive shaft coupler so looked at engine side and it looked fine so thought I was good. I forgot to look at the other end but just went out to look at it. I pulled on it and it fell off, guess I do have a problem. I have a Gilson with a similar drive shaft arrangement that came apart, scared me half to death when it's coupler separated. Thanks for all your videos and great information.
Congratulations on getting a Big Ten. You're one year off on the manufacture date though. All Big Ten's were manufactured for the 1965 model year. But, some earlier models did have a 1964 built engine. I'm glad you found both the nest and bad drive shaft coupler. Be Safe! Zip~
Yea, the drive shaft on my 1964 Simplicity 314 ovaled out and split the frame in half at the BGB like you mentioned. This didn't happen to me but it happened to the owner before me. I found the mess when I was tearing the tractor down for restoration. The split at the BGB was clean so I was able to weld it back together without issue.
+William “Nucloid” B Fortunately, for those who waited it out and bought a 1967 or later machine were fortunate enough to get tractors with the bugs worked out. Glad you were able to weld er up! Cheers!! Zip~
hey Zippo, i had a Wonderboy 700 with a bad universal, so i machined the shaft to açept a universal from an early chevy steering column,,, vorked perfectly and smooth as silk, also, the spacers you were showing look exactly the same as spacers used in chevy single piston front brake calipers, theres a million of them at any auto wrecker🤔🤔, just go pick a half dozen for stock! great videos man, im a new subscriber.
They are part number 2173026SM and still available. Just search "Simplicity 2173026SM" in your internet browser of choice and you'll find plenty of purchasing options. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Zip, I just can't leave anything alone. Wouldn't putting some proper greaseable universals in place of the discs be more reliable? I'm sure McMaster Carr would have something that would work.
Here's how I think about it Hudson. A Fiberglass Disc has Zero parts to wear out, unlike a Universal Joint. These Discs are used in many applications and rarely fail under the stress and torque put to them. They allow for minimal flexing, but consider this. The engine and Bevel Gear Box are both solidly mounted to the frame of the tractor. There is no suspension/flexing either horizontally or vertically. The drive shaft stays in perfect alignment with both the engine and BGB. So a Universal joint wouldn't benefit in this case. If the engine and BGB were on different planes and subject to any kind of twisting and flexing, then yes, U-Joints would absolutely be the only way to go. I've got tractors that are 55+ years old with their fiberglass couplers that are in as good a shape as the day they were installed at the factory. To end this comment. They are also designed to fail if something catastrophic happens, like an engine blowing. That sudden stop will shear the disc and save the BGB. Or if the BGB fails, it will save the engine from damage. A Universal Joint will transfer that force to both the engine and BGB without failing, so all you would have left in the drive line is the drive shaft. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga hey zip, you know me as Wayne Pick****t. We have spoken in the past about your Honda motorcycle collection, my concern about your health, and the 18 hp Vanguard conversion I did in my Simplicity 7116 Sovereign. I did look at the universal joints at McMaster Carr. They are boo coo expensive and you are right, the fiberglass coupler is really the best way to go. Stay well my friend.
I had a fiber disc let loose because the gomer I let put it together didnt tighten the bolts up enough. I heard the fiber scatter then the shaft start to to bang a few seconds later. I shut the key off and in that time the shaft bent about 30 degrees. So now I have a bent shaft and a parts machine that is missing a driveshaft. I saved the parts so that I can get the ends cut off the old one and new section of solid bar welded in the space. I doubt that any machine shop can straighten the shaft out enough to keep it from wobbling when it is at top engine speed.
+Randy J With dial indicators, a press and live ends to spin the shaft on, you can straiten them. I've done it a few times with stock drive shafts that suffered similar fates. One such drive shaft had compound bends, but with the dial indicator, you can straiten them quite easily. I used to work for a heat treat facility and through the processes, the raw cold forged transmission input shafts would get bent. We designed a machine to straiten them and that's where I got the idea and knowledge on how to do it correctly and with 100% success. I wouldn't claim it if it weren't so my good Man. Cheers!! Zip~ p.s. gomer....lol...Good ole Gomer Pyle!
Randy J Mine did this last night I'm still picking fiberglass out of my arm/leg. Bent my PTO shaft I guess one fastener was missing/worked loose. Too bad I just bought the thing now its useless :)
Does this apply to the 627 yeoman? I had mine lose its gears the other day. First it got stuck in 3rd gear, got that remedied and 1/3 of the lawn later I lost everything.
@@ZippoVarga thanks Zippo, I found model 821530 which is the same diameter as the original vulcanized coupler. I really like your videos; you are very generous with your knowledge.
Hi Sean, You mentioned that you might make a video showing us how to bench test Briggs magneto coils.. Is this video still on your to-do list?? I could sure use some help.. Thanks
+ZippoVarga I have a 1963 or 64, I'm not quite sure, Allis Chalmers B-1 that I had running for awhile and then quit that I determined had a bad magneto after replacing all other electrical components or testing them. Quite interested in a video about testing them. Also open for any suggestions for other solutions
+ZippoVarga do you know where, I've literally searched high and low and not come across anything close to workable, if you have any ideas I'm all ears for them, thanks
Hey zippo. Is there a way that I can get in touch with you. I am new at working on Allis and Chalmers. I now have 2 of them and would like to pick your brain.
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com Sidewall from a tire might do ya but if there was a better way Zip would most likely be on it. Still if you want to do a little modding there's all sorts of couplers you can put on.
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com The fiber discs are basically bullet proof. They are low cost and will last for decades. I have 50 plus year old Simplicity equipment that still has factory fiber discs in use. The discs that have failed were due to not tightening the bolts up when installing. No use trailblazing with a rigged solution when the only other factory solution is time tested and more than adequate
I have a 64. my couplings are trash. well i looked up the part number for a 66 fiberglass coupling, managed to find a converted A/C part number...2026579-9 and not finding this thing past that. I need two of them.
Man Im looking for a Fiberglass coupler hell any coupler but now im thinking im gonna predator the old girl instead of rebuilding but im still gonna need a coupler of somesort...
Here is a link. They are identical to the ones you need and are used on many different brands. Zip~ www.ebay.com/p/Grasshopper-821530-Flex-Coupling-Disc/1400689170?iid=271795943215&chn=ps
@@ZippoVarga Tango Mike man sorry for the delay I just saw this... I got a couple more priority projects I have to finalize then im gonna jump on this AC B10
I was given a Big 10 that had been sitting for a while but luckily it was stored inside. After I got it I even got a call that they had found a rototiller and snow blower for it so went back to New York to get them also. The tractor is in great condition for a 64 just needed some normal maintenance stuff except it was over heating. I found a huge mouse house in the shroud which meant I had pull the engine. I remembered something you had said about the drive shaft coupler so looked at engine side and it looked fine so thought I was good. I forgot to look at the other end but just went out to look at it. I pulled on it and it fell off, guess I do have a problem. I have a Gilson with a similar drive shaft arrangement that came apart, scared me half to death when it's coupler separated. Thanks for all your videos and great information.
Congratulations on getting a Big Ten. You're one year off on the manufacture date though. All Big Ten's were manufactured for the 1965 model year. But, some earlier models did have a 1964 built engine. I'm glad you found both the nest and bad drive shaft coupler. Be Safe! Zip~
I have the fiberglass one on my Allis Chalmers. I had no idea what it was for. Great info...
Yea, the drive shaft on my 1964 Simplicity 314 ovaled out and split the frame in half at the BGB like you mentioned. This didn't happen to me but it happened to the owner before me. I found the mess when I was tearing the tractor down for restoration. The split at the BGB was clean so I was able to weld it back together without issue.
+William “Nucloid” B Fortunately, for those who waited it out and bought a 1967 or later machine were fortunate enough to get tractors with the bugs worked out. Glad you were able to weld er up! Cheers!! Zip~
That's one hell of a time bomb. Right between your legs too... I wonder if there's other machines out there with similar traps.
hey Zippo, i had a Wonderboy 700 with a bad universal, so i machined the shaft to açept a universal from an early chevy steering column,,, vorked perfectly and smooth as silk,
also, the spacers you were showing look exactly the same as spacers used in chevy single piston front brake calipers, theres a million of them at any auto wrecker🤔🤔, just go pick a half dozen for stock!
great videos man, im a new subscriber.
Welcome to the madness Steve! Yep.....I've seen a few tractors come in with universals in place of the flex discs or rubber couplers. Cheers! Zip~
Where do I find the fiber disks? My father-in-law has a 1961 Simplicity 700 and those are worn real bad on both ends.
They are part number 2173026SM and still available. Just search "Simplicity 2173026SM" in your internet browser of choice and you'll find plenty of purchasing options. Cheers! Zip~
Hey Zip, I just can't leave anything alone. Wouldn't putting some proper greaseable universals in place of the discs be more reliable? I'm sure McMaster Carr would have something that would work.
Here's how I think about it Hudson. A Fiberglass Disc has Zero parts to wear out, unlike a Universal Joint. These Discs are used in many applications and rarely fail under the stress and torque put to them. They allow for minimal flexing, but consider this. The engine and Bevel Gear Box are both solidly mounted to the frame of the tractor. There is no suspension/flexing either horizontally or vertically. The drive shaft stays in perfect alignment with both the engine and BGB. So a Universal joint wouldn't benefit in this case. If the engine and BGB were on different planes and subject to any kind of twisting and flexing, then yes, U-Joints would absolutely be the only way to go. I've got tractors that are 55+ years old with their fiberglass couplers that are in as good a shape as the day they were installed at the factory. To end this comment. They are also designed to fail if something catastrophic happens, like an engine blowing. That sudden stop will shear the disc and save the BGB. Or if the BGB fails, it will save the engine from damage. A Universal Joint will transfer that force to both the engine and BGB without failing, so all you would have left in the drive line is the drive shaft. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga hey zip, you know me as Wayne Pick****t. We have spoken in the past about your Honda motorcycle collection, my concern about your health, and the 18 hp Vanguard conversion I did in my Simplicity 7116 Sovereign. I did look at the universal joints at McMaster Carr. They are boo coo expensive and you are right, the fiberglass coupler is really the best way to go. Stay well my friend.
My Snapper LT16 has the same type fiberglass disc on the driveshaft, and I've never had any problems with it
I had a fiber disc let loose because the gomer I let put it together didnt tighten the bolts up enough. I heard the fiber scatter then the shaft start to to bang a few seconds later. I shut the key off and in that time the shaft bent about 30 degrees. So now I have a bent shaft and a parts machine that is missing a driveshaft. I saved the parts so that I can get the ends cut off the old one and new section of solid bar welded in the space. I doubt that any machine shop can straighten the shaft out enough to keep it from wobbling when it is at top engine speed.
+Randy J With dial indicators, a press and live ends to spin the shaft on, you can straiten them. I've done it a few times with stock drive shafts that suffered similar fates. One such drive shaft had compound bends, but with the dial indicator, you can straiten them quite easily. I used to work for a heat treat facility and through the processes, the raw cold forged transmission input shafts would get bent. We designed a machine to straiten them and that's where I got the idea and knowledge on how to do it correctly and with 100% success. I wouldn't claim it if it weren't so my good Man. Cheers!! Zip~ p.s. gomer....lol...Good ole Gomer Pyle!
Randy J Mine did this last night I'm still picking fiberglass out of my arm/leg. Bent my PTO shaft I guess one fastener was missing/worked loose. Too bad I just bought the thing now its useless :)
Does this apply to the 627 yeoman? I had mine lose its gears the other day. First it got stuck in 3rd gear, got that remedied and 1/3 of the lawn later I lost everything.
It does not. The Yeoman is fully belt driven. Zip~
GM did the same thing on the v6 motors for a long time with the harmonic dampeners. I had to replace two of then 200 bucks apiece
can anyone recommend a place to get these discs. I keep looking for 2154194 and cant find any even from simplicity.
I can. Search for Grasshopper drive shaft coupler. they have the same hole spacing and work perfectly. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks Zippo, I found model 821530 which is the same diameter as the original vulcanized coupler. I really like your videos; you are very generous with your knowledge.
Hi Sean, You mentioned that you might make a video showing us how to bench test Briggs magneto coils.. Is this video still on your to-do list?? I could sure use some help.. Thanks
+Goober 26 It is, but in the mean time, there are a number of videos showing how to measure across the field to check the ohms of resistance.
+ZippoVarga I have a 1963 or 64, I'm not quite sure, Allis Chalmers B-1 that I had running for awhile and then quit that I determined had a bad magneto after replacing all other electrical components or testing them. Quite interested in a video about testing them. Also open for any suggestions for other solutions
+Phillip Leverett The coil pack is available and replaceable on your B-1's engine if it's the original model 19.
+ZippoVarga do you know where, I've literally searched high and low and not come across anything close to workable, if you have any ideas I'm all ears for them, thanks
+Phillip Leverett www.ebay.com/itm/230847710108?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hey zippo. Is there a way that I can get in touch with you. I am new at working on Allis and Chalmers. I now have 2 of them and would like to pick your brain.
+B grizz There;s a link on my banner on my UA-cam home page that will take you to my Facebook page.
They don't sell a aftermarket new rubber/fiber coupling system? or Double chain (double #60 sprocket system?
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com Sidewall from a tire might do ya but if there was a better way Zip would most likely be on it. Still if you want to do a little modding there's all sorts of couplers you can put on.
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com The fiber discs are basically bullet proof. They are low cost and will last for decades. I have 50 plus year old Simplicity equipment that still has factory fiber discs in use. The discs that have failed were due to not tightening the bolts up when installing. No use trailblazing with a rigged solution when the only other factory solution is time tested and more than adequate
Thanks Sean.
I have a 64. my couplings are trash. well i looked up the part number for a 66 fiberglass coupling, managed to find a converted A/C part number...2026579-9 and not finding this thing past that. I need two of them.
found it Simplicity #2173026SM at Partstree
Man Im looking for a Fiberglass coupler hell any coupler but now im thinking im gonna predator the old girl instead of rebuilding but im still gonna need a coupler of somesort...
Here is a link. They are identical to the ones you need and are used on many different brands. Zip~
www.ebay.com/p/Grasshopper-821530-Flex-Coupling-Disc/1400689170?iid=271795943215&chn=ps
@@ZippoVarga Tango Mike man sorry for the delay I just saw this... I got a couple more priority projects I have to finalize then im gonna jump on this AC B10
Good lesson thanks.
Great advice