Fixing a modern scope with bulky vintage soldering iron and gun... in skillful hands even the most primitive tools do the job just fine. You may be an old geezer, but you're still sharp as a razor! And cute too.
Hey Ron your tech friend Dave from up North it was amazing how you repaired the scope you have an amazing talent very good job I repaired an old scope last weekend myself and some old radios myself even though I'm retired I do it on the side hope to see some more videos and hope that you're staying healthy may God keep you safe and bless you always your friend Dave
I don't think 90's... my bet is late 70s to early 80s. Would be interesting to know Ron's age. He is an amazing electronics expert. I built his electronic circuit breaker for my test bench, and it is a great addition. The little gems locked among his videos! PS: Any non business that has a working GHz scope is to be looked up to in my book... I was only able to afford a 600MHz Tek.
Well done, your knowledge is surving you Well aswell as your eyesight. Fantastic to watch the process and will help anyone wanting to update their scope.
Nice work there, that's definitely a big job to do and major brown trousers moment at switch-on, glad it worked out ok, I'm actually very surprised at the lack of product support from Tektronix, at the very least the software should still be available.
Very exciting and educative 'Scrolling down through the memory' ... wish I could 'Glasslinger'. Your contents are always so resourceful and lovely, precisely. I always love them and look forward for the next one!
Hi Ron, thanks for again a great vid. Good solder wick with flux in it works well and easy, will save you a lot of time. I always am amazed by the skill and insight you casually display. Thank you for the ESR tips, I will use those. I am quite curious about your career path. Anyhow, again thanks and have a great day :) greetings from the Netherlands - the Philips country ;)
Today i saw Glasslinger, the master of tubes and analog radios, use a pc for the first time ever, and even programming chips!!! Is the world ending? I know is a bit silly because he always used a pc to post video on yt!
Hi.... I watched you de-solder that IC, and I think I can teach you something I only found out myself last week, after a significant number of de-soldering myself through the years. Solder takes 2 seconds to solidify. Heat the hole, take away the iron > completely
What I was thinking, although I don't have experience here, the NVRAM storage for this scope is "for saving waveforms, hardcopies, and setups". Do you really need to copy that data to the new chip for that ?
@@erikdenhouterIt has all the calibration factors for the scope. If you lose those you have to go through a complicated calibration procedure. That is way more than I want to fool with. I have no data on exactly what is in the ram so I didn't want to screw the scope by throwing the data away.
You need a better solder sucker then. Mine completely vacuums the hole if the solder is actually melted. The main problem is heating the pad all the way through.
Oh wow. That is a painful way to take chips out, Anything I ever had to desolder with many pins was almost impossible with just a solder sucker. There was always that last molecule of solder holding it to the board. When I got my Hakko desoldering gun life changed for the better. I could desolder a chip like that in less than a minute.
Indeed, it pained me to watch the process being carried out with a crusty iron tip and equally crusty sucker nozzle! All credit though as I doubt I could have done it with those tools.
Probably but it shows people more, if you can see what's being done, he might as well say "Hey I repaired this and it's now working. Some people like to see things in a more relaxed way, it becomes more engrossing and enjoyable, less clinical and straight to the point.
Enjoy your repair videos Not many people around that repair antique electronics I think people might like to get a tour of your shop and radio collection sometime if you care to
I am watching your videos and I am impressed . I would like to know about your background . Like your education profession etc . I think you should set up one video where people would ask you those questions . Thanks , hope you will do that
Ya know, if you get your cat in the habit of standing on a skateboard, one of these days kitty might experience the thrill of rocketing across the room.
For your information, In XGPRO, If you click on the device tab then click verify tab a menu opens that will give the option to compare what was written to the chip from what was read in to memory
You're off by almost 10 years. That is around 26 years old. I had an older model Tektronix scope like yours when I worked at DEC in the mid 90s, and those were quite expensive at the time.
Who knew Ron was a Guru on Tektronix scopes as well? When I was a service technician in the eighties and nineties, our scopes went out for calibration each year, as we were ISO 9001 certified. Great to show those who don't know the importance of ESD precautions. Funny not to see Ron's massive soldering gun too much on this repair..............
Sweep test done from below 1 MHZ to 1500 MHZ. Nice and flat to about 1100 MHZ and a smooth rolloff to slightly higher. These are very nice scopes, especially for the money!
I do be very careful to not overheat the pad or use force. Don't want to pull out the through hole plating! I'll try the toothpick method and see how it works.
Hi Ron! I have been buying and recapping these Tek scopes, and I have three, two analog and one digital in my shop now, and they have completely replaced the tube Tek scopes I had been using. May I suggest you get an antistatic mat for working on such equipment? The risk is real, and soldering and desoldering equipment is also a hazard for ICs!
Hi again. Last question about tubes manufacturing. Watching your videos you have convinced me about giving up with sodalime glass and start using borosilicate. And you are right, is a lot more convenient. But my glass-tungsten seal fail sometimes. I heat the tungsten leads till yellow to remove the air. The question is about using an oxidizing or reducing flame. Which one do you use? And after heating the tungsten, should the tungsten have a yellow oxide layer? Thank for sharing your priceless knowledge in your videos!
Another interesting way to solve the issue of dying NVRAM batteries is to replace the whole thing with F-RAM instead however the DS1250Y seems a bit peculiar and would need a bit of extra logic to adapt an existing almost-compatile F-RAM chip and I found at least one project that tackles that ("DS1250Y/DS1650Y FRAM Replacement"). My goto to clear pesky ground pins (it's always ground...) is to use a metal cocktail skewer or a needle and push from one side while heating the other
Yeah, I have some commercial desoldering tools for that purpose, pretty much just a stainless wire with an insulated handle, it'll transfer the heat and the solder doesn't bond to it. Haven't had much call to use them since I got my desoldering station though ;)
It is still possible the scope won't pass all the 'self-tests'... as AFAIK... they are not all run at boot time. Running all of them, in detail, takes awhile, and would significantly add to the boot time, if the full self-test was boot up default.
Ron couple questions for you. What is the model number of the rom reader you are using. And where did you get the new nvrams ? I think all the nvrams from china are fake. thanks
The programmer software has a verify option to check if the data in the chip is exactly the same as the file you saved on the computer, so no need to do it by hand
Hello. Long time viewing your videos bu first time I write. I´m making my first triodes ando your videos are very helpful. Thank you. I have just 2 questions, I want to heat (baking) my triodes while I´m making vacuum in them. You have an oven and you say you heat it up to 1.000 degrees. I understand you mean farenheit right? and how long you heat them?
Yes, degrees F. I heat them for 4 to 6 hours while under 10-5 torr or better vacuum. The tube is then processed for emission and sealed right off. The baking is absolutely necessary if the tube is expected to last longer than a few days.
Good morning Miss Glasslinger, I am making a crystal radio, And i need you opinion. Here is how i'm going to build it starting with the outside antenna ...... Into a antenna coil ..... into a variable capacitor to adjust antenna coil ..... into germain dido...... into wiper for radio frequency coil ...... out to ground wire. What do you think?....
OH MY! I guess I will find out since I copied the old ram to the new one. If it had lost bits they now are also in the new ram. Getting old has disadvantages!
Hello my friend, I am in need of a Sprytron and I cannot find one anywhere. You are the only person that I believe would be able to make one of these. I need one of these or a triggered spark gap for a research project that I have been working on for nearly 18 years. Please let me know...thank you, John
@@glasslinger Thank you. I knew they used these back in the early days but I din't think they still did. I have been working on a system that converts one type of electrical energy into another type that is usable. The device is in the patent review stage and I believe I can refine the design even more so I can use commercial transformers if I can change the frequency of the input electricity. I may be able to do it with a Thyratron. Thank you for your input my friend.
Yes I was waiting for a delam when poking copper wire through. I learned a lot from Ron over the years, but good flux and solder wick will work wonders for clearing the holes out.
Hi, all your restoration work with respect to vintage/old radios are very great. I am BHARATH a student from India and a new subscriber to your channel. I have collected a 1950's Murphy TA224 Radio Set, in which rectifier valve/tube viz UU9/EZ40 is missing, can we place a diod in place of such valve/tube. Because in India no valves/tubes available for such replacement and another valve 6C9 in which the tip on the valve head is broken. I am kindly seeking your guidance and suggestions for restoration of my radio set. Thank You
Yes, you can replace the rectifier with a 1n4007 or equivalent diode. Place a 47 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the diode to limit inrush current. Always place a small fuse in the mains input. A 1/2 amp slow fuse is suitable. This will save the power transformer in case of a circuit failure.
@@glasslinger Thank You for your kind and valuable information and guidance. One more query with respect to the 6C9 is a VHF double tetrode designed for use as VHF RF amplifiers. In the above said valve the tip on the head is lightly broken, any suitable valve available for such 6C9 valve. Thank You 😊🤝😊
@@bharathba4762 The 6C9 is easily purchased in the USA for $10 plus shipping. This may be far more than the cost of the tube, sending it to India, if that is even possible.
@@glasslinger Thank You for your kind and valuable information and response. Yes, I was attempted to purchase the 6C9 valve from Ebay, but the cost comes around $23.62 including shipping charges. But I am not in a position to afford such cost. Thank You
@@bharathba4762 Sorry to hear that. I have no way to handle sending the tube to you or I would buy it for you. In the USA 23 bucks is a cup of coffee! Pocket change! I have no solution to your problem but I understand completely. I have projects that cost real money here in the USA. Try $25,000 dollars. This is far beyond my project level while a few thousand is within reach. Frustrating to not be rich!
Could you not replace their battery maybe while powering the chip with an external power supply at the same time so it never lost power, people do that with some gameboy games 😅 it doesn't seem like there is much room inside the case to store a spare, is the data online or is it a case of once it's lost, it's unusable?
@BreatheScotland yes I saw the same video as everyone else did, I just didn't check to see if it was available anywhere online, though I am aware there is a large tektronix 'community' I'd have thought it must still exist somewhere, from reading some of the other comments it suggests the data here is not something that is required for the unit to run, but is just for user presets, meaning beyond those specifications, the only other thing it may contain is information on how to write and read that data
@BreatheScotland if by 'presets' u mean calibration data, then those data are stored in the NVRAM, at the the time of the factory calibration, and any time the scopes might have been re-calibrated. The calibration data for each serial number is different, or significantly different, so that the scope won't be in spec, unless the cal data for the particular serial number is stored in its NVRAM. (You can't just use cal data from another scopes ram, and not encounter errors, or out of spec results.)
@@phonotical The calibration data,is stored in the NVRAM, at the the time of the factory calibration, and any time the scopes might have been re-calibrated. The calibration data for each serial number is different, or significantly different, so that the scope won't be in spec, unless the cal data for the particular serial number is stored in its NVRAM. (You can't just use cal data from another scope's ram, and not encounter errors, or out of spec results.) If the NVRAM goes tits up... and you damage the stored data, then you can (or some might be able to) replace the NVRAM, and recal the scope... but, tedious, ad requires specific calibration equipment.
Not available when that was designed. Also the first gen Flash was not good for hundreds or thousands of write cycles depending on the make. Further writing to NVRAM is as simple as writing to RAM where as Flash requires (especially back when) a programming sequence, tens of milliseconds of time, and it is only page erasable at best so changing only one location is bothersome.
After a closer look, that looks like a more modern unit so Flash was available, still NVRAM is very handy from programming point of view. What I don't get is that it was not socketed.
This got me interested, This scope, according to a brochure I found online, is from 1997 or there abouts. So knowing the meticulous way Tektronix qualifies their product I would expect that the design decisions as to what components to use was made around 1995. Toshiba introduced Flash technology in 1988 so a mere 6-8 years earlier, I could not find when it was actually available nor the actual chip. Intel datasheet for 28F010 (which IIRC was their first Flash memory) is dated 1998 so about the same time this scope was introduced. I think Textronix designs are conservative so to me it would be seem that they would be pushing the envelope with a 'new' and not very proven technology such as Flash memory. Besides, that chip (28F010) has 1 second erase time, which while it would not prevent its use, it would make the software to handle storing parameters rather complex depending on what the memory was used for. For calibration values, not a big hassle, for storing latest setup (think saving setting after each button press, or on power loss) not a something to look forward to as an embedded software engineer. NVRAM is a perfect solution, probably cheaper back then and just treat it like RAM and all your parameters are kept. Yes the downside is that at some point the battery runs out but the customer is going to pay for the service at that point, not Tektronix! Like I wrote earlier: what I don't get is why it was socketed. I've got an even older digital scope from HP which suffer from this same problem, soldered on MVRAM.
Hi! I have a small basket case of a tabletop radio I believe from the 40’s that no one around here will touch. I’m begging for help. Can I send it to you possibly to get it working? It was. My grandfathers and very sentimental. Pleaseees
Not sure that you need to preprogram a new NVRAM unless you have the original data. If the old one is defective you can not extract all data by reading it.
The NVRAM holds the calibration data so when that data is lost you need to do a complete recalibration of everything for it to work properly again, so the data in each oscilloscope is unique to each unit
@switch Thank you, that explains it. I was wondering why buy a reader just to save presets and waveforms. I was thinking Ron might have the idea that the operating firmware was on these. As a software eng, I can tell you that unless tek was doing something bizarre, there's no code in these.
Welcome back miss. I still can't believe i posted a BIG vacuum tube with your kitty and a 1920 breadboard radio in the tube And i was so proud of making it for you and you never said thanks of kiss my ass or anything. But that is ok Karma will fix it all!!!!
I’m just glad Ron found a way to live in 2014, yet still post videos in 2024! Life was better in 2014! Thanks, Ron!
Sorry you are not doing so well. I am better off now than ever. But getting old! That sucks!
one of the greatest technical minds to ever grace youtube and a farting cat . we love you ron
Fixing a modern scope with bulky vintage soldering iron and gun... in skillful hands even the most primitive tools do the job just fine. You may be an old geezer, but you're still sharp as a razor! And cute too.
I've seen all your videos, you're a very good technician, congratulations
Hey Ron your tech friend Dave from up North it was amazing how you repaired the scope you have an amazing talent very good job I repaired an old scope last weekend myself and some old radios myself even though I'm retired I do it on the side hope to see some more videos and hope that you're staying healthy may God keep you safe and bless you always your friend Dave
The fact that you can do this at your age is amazing. You must be well in to your 90's, and you can still do stuff like this. My respect!
I could be wrong but I don't think Ron is in his 90's just yet. And when you say 'this', I presume you are referring to the bench work 😉
I don't think 90's... my bet is late 70s to early 80s. Would be interesting to know Ron's age. He is an amazing electronics expert. I built his electronic circuit breaker for my test bench, and it is a great addition. The little gems locked among his videos!
PS: Any non business that has a working GHz scope is to be looked up to in my book... I was only able to afford a 600MHz Tek.
Ron is 78. He’ll be 79 in July.
I'd guess he's 75-77 judging by the various comments he's made about thing's in general.
TV shows, radio shows etc
To bylo napínavé dobrodružství a povedlo se. Obdivuji vaši šikovnost a všechna vaše videa.
Impressive repair, you explained what you were doing like many of the trainers I have encountered in my career.
Sempre assisto para aprender algo! A coleção de tubos me deixou estarrecido!
Always enjoing you working on sfuff!!! Keep doing it!
Brilliant work Ron. It took a long time to boot up, it was worrying.
Well done, your knowledge is surving you Well aswell as your eyesight. Fantastic to watch the process and will help anyone wanting to update their scope.
Did you say 98 as in 1998? That makes them 26 years old
Nice work there, that's definitely a big job to do and major brown trousers moment at switch-on, glad it worked out ok, I'm actually very surprised at the lack of product support from Tektronix, at the very least the software should still be available.
It's fun to see you work on some more recent stuff ^^
Love your videos. You're brilliant!
Very exciting and educative 'Scrolling down through the memory' ... wish I could 'Glasslinger'. Your contents are always so resourceful and lovely, precisely. I always love them and look forward for the next one!
Thank you for the Thumbs up.
Please do consider a cheap desoldering station, it makes life a lot easier on you and the ICs.... Anyway, great work!
Well done Ron :-D .
That is a beast of a scope and will be very handy.
I have a basic old analog oscilliscope but a great tool.
Nice that you were able to revive the device.
Very good work, that's a nice measuring instrument.
Hi Ron, thanks for again a great vid. Good solder wick with flux in it works well and easy, will save you a lot of time. I always am amazed by the skill and insight you casually display. Thank you for the ESR tips, I will use those. I am quite curious about your career path. Anyhow, again thanks and have a great day :) greetings from the Netherlands - the Philips country ;)
Awesome video! You rock, and so does the cat! 😻
Wow, interesting to see you working on non-historic tube stuff. This is also nice in it's own way.
Mám radosť z každého nového videa.👍
Awesome video, as always!
Today i saw Glasslinger, the master of tubes and analog radios, use a pc for the first time ever, and even programming chips!!! Is the world ending?
I know is a bit silly because he always used a pc to post video on yt!
Great video and really detailed instructions. Hope you are doing well and take care of yourself sugar...
Brilliant as ever.
Complimenti , madame .
Nice work!
Excellent content. Thanks
Hi.... I watched you de-solder that IC, and I think I can teach you something I only found out myself last week, after a significant number of de-soldering myself through the years. Solder takes 2 seconds to solidify. Heat the hole, take away the iron > completely
What I was thinking, although I don't have experience here, the NVRAM storage for this scope is "for saving waveforms, hardcopies, and setups". Do you really need to copy that data to the new chip for that ?
@@erikdenhouterIt has all the calibration factors for the scope. If you lose those you have to go through a complicated calibration procedure. That is way more than I want to fool with. I have no data on exactly what is in the ram so I didn't want to screw the scope by throwing the data away.
You need a better solder sucker then. Mine completely vacuums the hole if the solder is actually melted. The main problem is heating the pad all the way through.
@@glasslingerCalibration data, understandable. Thanks.
Oh wow. That is a painful way to take chips out, Anything I ever had to desolder with many pins was almost impossible with just a solder sucker. There was always that last molecule of solder holding it to the board. When I got my Hakko desoldering gun life changed for the better. I could desolder a chip like that in less than a minute.
Indeed, it pained me to watch the process being carried out with a crusty iron tip and equally crusty sucker nozzle! All credit though as I doubt I could have done it with those tools.
Probably but it shows people more, if you can see what's being done, he might as well say "Hey I repaired this and it's now working.
Some people like to see things in a more relaxed way, it becomes more engrossing and enjoyable, less clinical and straight to the point.
Amazing what you can do the old school way.
Great job!
Enjoy your repair videos
Not many people around that repair antique electronics
I think people might like to get a tour of your shop and radio collection sometime if you care to
Hurray, U R here again ❤
great work
Dobra Praca :) Pozdrawiam z Polski :)
I am watching your videos and I am impressed . I would like to know about your background . Like your education profession etc .
I think you should set up one video where people would ask you those questions .
Thanks , hope you will do that
Ya know, if you get your cat in the habit of standing on a skateboard, one of these days kitty might experience the thrill of rocketing across the room.
He, he, he! :)
Great video, thank you.
Like to see a pan an short description
Of your test equipment.. I'm still in shock of your tube collection..
Thanks Ron
For your information, In XGPRO, If you click on the device tab then click verify tab a menu opens that will give the option to compare what was written to the chip from what was read in to memory
OK.
Same as in some old computers, you can modify them with an external battery. They last a long time but I agree that 1998 is very due
You're off by almost 10 years. That is around 26 years old. I had an older model Tektronix scope like yours when I worked at DEC in the mid 90s, and those were quite expensive at the time.
Who knew Ron was a Guru on Tektronix scopes as well? When I was a service technician in the eighties and nineties, our scopes went out for calibration each year, as we were ISO 9001 certified. Great to show those who don't know the importance of ESD precautions. Funny not to see Ron's massive soldering gun too much on this repair..............
Quite a different beast than my all transistor Tek 453 from 1969.
Great
hey Ron,you are awesome,great knowledge,,why you dont use a mouse,its so my easyer,great video again.
Also, to see if the scope is operating properly, you need to do a signal path compensation test, using the proper probe.
Sweep test done from below 1 MHZ to 1500 MHZ. Nice and flat to about 1100 MHZ and a smooth rolloff to slightly higher. These are very nice scopes, especially for the money!
Did you know that Hewlett Packard is an anagram for "the lewd packrat"?
Yesssssss
👗very nice
RON, To clean out the empty holes I always use wooden matches that I sharpen at the end. This is safer than your method with the bare copper wire.
I do be very careful to not overheat the pad or use force. Don't want to pull out the through hole plating! I'll try the toothpick method and see how it works.
Hi Ron!
I have been buying and recapping these Tek scopes, and I have three, two analog and one digital in my shop now, and they have completely replaced the tube Tek scopes I had been using.
May I suggest you get an antistatic mat for working on such equipment? The risk is real, and soldering and desoldering equipment is also a hazard for ICs!
Hi again. Last question about tubes manufacturing. Watching your videos you have convinced me about giving up with sodalime glass and start using borosilicate. And you are right, is a lot more convenient. But my glass-tungsten seal fail sometimes. I heat the tungsten leads till yellow to remove the air. The question is about using an oxidizing or reducing flame. Which one do you use? And after heating the tungsten, should the tungsten have a yellow oxide layer?
Thank for sharing your priceless knowledge in your videos!
The oxide will be a dark gray color. A yellow color indicates too thin of an oxide layer. It will fail after a few months.
Thank you!
Ok. So I should use a more oxidizing flame in order to get a thicker oxide layer right? Because I heat it as long as you do it
@@MrDuffman83 I always use a neutral flame. Both for the tungsten and the glass work.
@@glasslinger thank you!!
New glasslinger vid notification pops up while watching older glasslinger vid 😂
Another interesting way to solve the issue of dying NVRAM batteries is to replace the whole thing with F-RAM instead however the DS1250Y seems a bit peculiar and would need a bit of extra logic to adapt an existing almost-compatile F-RAM chip and I found at least one project that tackles that ("DS1250Y/DS1650Y FRAM Replacement").
My goto to clear pesky ground pins (it's always ground...) is to use a metal cocktail skewer or a needle and push from one side while heating the other
Yeah, I have some commercial desoldering tools for that purpose, pretty much just a stainless wire with an insulated handle, it'll transfer the heat and the solder doesn't bond to it. Haven't had much call to use them since I got my desoldering station though ;)
It is still possible the scope won't pass all the 'self-tests'... as AFAIK... they are not all run at boot time. Running all of them, in detail, takes awhile, and would significantly add to the boot time, if the full self-test was boot up default.
I need a crt tube. Mine was broken in shipping.
Should be using the plastic pedals but the metal drivers
The -"Cat"- farts again!
If you had a hot air gun you could have the NVRAM out of the board in ten seconds!
Ron couple questions for you. What is the model number of the rom reader you are using. And where did you get the new nvrams ? I think all the nvrams from china are fake. thanks
The programmer software has a verify option to check if the data in the chip is exactly the same as the file you saved on the computer, so no need to do it by hand
Yes. I guess I just am old and used to doing things myself.
I see a floppy disk drive. I wondered if the settings could be saved?
Hello. Long time viewing your videos bu first time I write. I´m making my first triodes ando your videos are very helpful. Thank you. I have just 2 questions, I want to heat (baking) my triodes while I´m making vacuum in them. You have an oven and you say you heat it up to 1.000 degrees. I understand you mean farenheit right? and how long you heat them?
Yes, degrees F. I heat them for 4 to 6 hours while under 10-5 torr or better vacuum. The tube is then processed for emission and sealed right off. The baking is absolutely necessary if the tube is expected to last longer than a few days.
@@glasslinger thank you a lot!!
My dear long-time video maker friend, you NEED better desoldering tools. Spend a couple of bucks. Just my two cents.
Good morning Miss Glasslinger, I am making a crystal radio, And i need you opinion. Here is how i'm going to build it starting with the outside antenna ...... Into a antenna coil ..... into a variable capacitor to adjust antenna coil ..... into germain dido...... into wiper for radio frequency coil ...... out to ground wire. What do you think?....
I would google "crystal radio schematics." You will see the general theme of them. Note that simple works best.
“Uh oh that cat again “ Yeah, right maybe if that cat is a lion !!
You missed 2009, so those RAM modules are 25 and 26 years old
OH MY! I guess I will find out since I copied the old ram to the new one. If it had lost bits they now are also in the new ram. Getting old has disadvantages!
i was totally gonna watch all 64 pins get desoldered..... lol
Hi there good morning
Hello my friend, I am in need of a Sprytron and I cannot find one anywhere. You are the only person that I believe would be able to make one of these. I need one of these or a triggered spark gap for a research project that I have been working on for nearly 18 years. Please let me know...thank you, John
Building these can result in gumment trouble. Not practical.
@@glasslinger Thank you. I knew they used these back in the early days but I din't think they still did. I have been working on a system that converts one type of electrical energy into another type that is usable. The device is in the patent review stage and I believe I can refine the design even more so I can use commercial transformers if I can change the frequency of the input electricity. I may be able to do it with a Thyratron. Thank you for your input my friend.
desoldering was a horror. I expected that you would damage the circuit board at any moment
Yes I was waiting for a delam when poking copper wire through. I learned a lot from Ron over the years, but good flux and solder wick will work wonders for clearing the holes out.
42:55 Search for the compare feature. ❤
49:31 - Perfect time for a RickRoll 😎
Hi, all your restoration work with respect to vintage/old radios are very great.
I am BHARATH a student from India and a new subscriber to your channel.
I have collected a 1950's Murphy TA224 Radio Set, in which rectifier valve/tube viz UU9/EZ40 is missing, can we place a diod in place of such valve/tube. Because in India no valves/tubes available for such replacement and another valve 6C9 in which the tip on the valve head is broken.
I am kindly seeking your guidance and suggestions for restoration of my radio set.
Thank You
Yes, you can replace the rectifier with a 1n4007 or equivalent diode. Place a 47 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the diode to limit inrush current. Always place a small fuse in the mains input. A 1/2 amp slow fuse is suitable. This will save the power transformer in case of a circuit failure.
@@glasslinger Thank You for your kind and valuable information and guidance.
One more query with respect to the 6C9 is a VHF double tetrode designed for use as VHF RF amplifiers.
In the above said valve the tip on the head is lightly broken, any suitable valve available for such 6C9 valve.
Thank You 😊🤝😊
@@bharathba4762 The 6C9 is easily purchased in the USA for $10 plus shipping. This may be far more than the cost of the tube, sending it to India, if that is even possible.
@@glasslinger Thank You for your kind and valuable information and response.
Yes, I was attempted to purchase the 6C9 valve from Ebay, but the cost comes around $23.62 including shipping charges.
But I am not in a position to afford such cost.
Thank You
@@bharathba4762 Sorry to hear that. I have no way to handle sending the tube to you or I would buy it for you. In the USA 23 bucks is a cup of coffee! Pocket change! I have no solution to your problem but I understand completely. I have projects that cost real money here in the USA. Try $25,000 dollars. This is far beyond my project level while a few thousand is within reach. Frustrating to not be rich!
Could you not replace their battery maybe while powering the chip with an external power supply at the same time so it never lost power, people do that with some gameboy games 😅 it doesn't seem like there is much room inside the case to store a spare, is the data online or is it a case of once it's lost, it's unusable?
@BreatheScotland yes I saw the same video as everyone else did, I just didn't check to see if it was available anywhere online, though I am aware there is a large tektronix 'community' I'd have thought it must still exist somewhere, from reading some of the other comments it suggests the data here is not something that is required for the unit to run, but is just for user presets, meaning beyond those specifications, the only other thing it may contain is information on how to write and read that data
@BreatheScotland if by 'presets' u mean calibration data, then those data are stored in the NVRAM, at the the time of the factory calibration, and any time the scopes might have been re-calibrated. The calibration data for each serial number is different, or significantly different, so that the scope won't be in spec, unless the cal data for the particular serial number is stored in its NVRAM. (You can't just use cal data from another scopes ram, and not encounter errors, or out of spec results.)
@@phonotical The calibration data,is stored in the NVRAM, at the the time of the factory calibration, and any time the scopes might have been re-calibrated. The calibration data for each serial number is different, or significantly different, so that the scope won't be in spec, unless the cal data for the particular serial number is stored in its NVRAM. (You can't just use cal data from another scope's ram, and not encounter errors, or out of spec results.) If the NVRAM goes tits up... and you damage the stored data, then you can (or some might be able to) replace the NVRAM, and recal the scope... but, tedious, ad requires specific calibration equipment.
@@willthecat3861 ahh okay, I have one but it isn't as fancy as that
19:00 a glasslinger video is incomplete with out a rectal gas expulsion
could use a pin drill just big enough to clean out the hole
you dont find better crack that this channel..
I might be able to give you the money for the audion. Also can i operate the audion as a simple transmitter or operate in at FM
I would have put tiny zip ties below the sockets and tighten them around the ICs to secure them in place!
Usual fart comes at 35:33 in this production.
That darned cat!
Why would the information not be saved using some kind of flash memory?
Not available when that was designed. Also the first gen Flash was not good for hundreds or thousands of write cycles depending on the make. Further writing to NVRAM is as simple as writing to RAM where as Flash requires (especially back when) a programming sequence, tens of milliseconds of time, and it is only page erasable at best so changing only one location is bothersome.
After a closer look, that looks like a more modern unit so Flash was available, still NVRAM is very handy from programming point of view. What I don't get is that it was not socketed.
This got me interested, This scope, according to a brochure I found online, is from 1997 or there abouts. So knowing the meticulous way Tektronix qualifies their product I would expect that the design decisions as to what components to use was made around 1995. Toshiba introduced Flash technology in 1988 so a mere 6-8 years earlier, I could not find when it was actually available nor the actual chip. Intel datasheet for 28F010 (which IIRC was their first Flash memory) is dated 1998 so about the same time this scope was introduced. I think Textronix designs are conservative so to me it would be seem that they would be pushing the envelope with a 'new' and not very proven technology such as Flash memory.
Besides, that chip (28F010) has 1 second erase time, which while it would not prevent its use, it would make the software to handle storing parameters rather complex depending on what the memory was used for. For calibration values, not a big hassle, for storing latest setup (think saving setting after each button press, or on power loss) not a something to look forward to as an embedded software engineer.
NVRAM is a perfect solution, probably cheaper back then and just treat it like RAM and all your parameters are kept. Yes the downside is that at some point the battery runs out but the customer is going to pay for the service at that point, not Tektronix! Like I wrote earlier: what I don't get is why it was socketed. I've got an even older digital scope from HP which suffer from this same problem, soldered on MVRAM.
@@Axel_Andersenyeah, mostly at the time Flash was EXPENSIVE and likely the design was being refined for a few years prior to release.
@@SomeMorganSomewhere Yeah, I agree.
Hi! I have a small basket case of a tabletop radio I believe from the 40’s that no one around here will touch. I’m begging for help. Can I send it to you possibly to get it working? It was. My grandfathers and very sentimental. Pleaseees
I totally get you. I´m only in my 40´s and I already feel attachment for my old laptops and compact disc stuff!
35:30 That is going to itch when it dries.😂
ramS hehehehehe
Not sure that you need to preprogram a new NVRAM unless you have the original data. If the old one is defective you can not extract all data by reading it.
The NVRAM holds the calibration data so when that data is lost you need to do a complete recalibration of everything for it to work properly again, so the data in each oscilloscope is unique to each unit
@switch Thank you, that explains it. I was wondering why buy a reader just to save presets and waveforms. I was thinking Ron might have the idea that the operating firmware was on these. As a software eng, I can tell you that unless tek was doing something bizarre, there's no code in these.
Welcome back miss. I still can't believe i posted a BIG vacuum tube with your kitty and a 1920 breadboard radio in the tube And i was so proud of making it for you and you never said thanks of kiss my ass or anything. But that is ok Karma will fix it all!!!!
Why are you using that cheesy little hand vacuum? You should have a legit solder vacuum. So painful to watch.
Why don't you send him one?
Him? Its wearing a dress.@@docholliday3150
"Techtronix does not approve of this." (tm)
'Glasslinger' does not require any external validation. He is a legend himself !
We do not approve of your repair procedures.
I love them even if you do not.
Glasslinger should approve you guys
@@shubhankarnath9364he is a fake account. Pay attention to the dot he put after Tektronix, Plus he only has one sub
@Tektronix
We do not approve of trolls like you.
Ha, ha, ha, ha!
Ron its back , its a beautifull day ! Greetings from françe my teachter
Ron is such a clever man, i think the cat is teaching him lol.
The cat says ME HOW? :-D
I might be able to give you the money for the audion. Also can i operate the audion as a simple transmitter or operate in at FM