Brilliant design! Bought the plans for this and the buffet few minutes ago. Will be next year before the shop is up and running as we move next week. Take care and thanks!
Excellent! I've made something similar and am in the process of upgrading it as well, adding beefier linear bearings, adjusting the router plate and such. Great build!
Love it! Lots of good ideas for the eventual rebuild of my slot mortiser. Really like the tilt table design, and I've been meaning to make a table with the matchfit clamps forever. Leadscrew on the plunge/Y axis is very high on my list. I'd love to manage to make a disconnectable leadscrew for both X/Y for some milling operations.
Very helpful video and an excellent machine! Any concerns over the router moving vertically slightly up and down (along the Z axis) during the operation? I didn't notice any lock mechanism for the wheel, would it turn during the operation?
Great video! Bought the plans and am on my way with the build. One question: Can you cut raised panels uing the tilt table? I can't see to get my mind around how they would be done.
Nice! When making the tenons, how do achieve getting the up and down (thickness) the same every time? You didn’t show too much in your video. Great looking machine, I’m interested.
The best method is to set the machine to cut the top side of the tenon (a little thick), then flip the piece over rather than reposition it. That gives you consistency. From there you can “sneak up” on the right fit. Really though, loose tenons are the best method if your particular joint allows for it.
In the materials list, you have linear bearings for the x and y axis, but not for the router on the z axis. Also the link to the linear bearings calls for 12 mm size, but the amazon link lists only 8, 10 and 16 mm. How do you find the tolerances of the linear bearing setups? On the lead screw, how tight is the backlash with the nut? I'm not criticizing, only looking for information. Looks like a nice machine - good design.
The linear bearings for the router lift are the same as the other two sets. Last time I looked, Amazon didn’t have them as sets, but you can buy the pieces. Here is a link to just the shafts amzn.to/3w2lbFU just the stand offs: amzn.to/3fhgKBb and just the bearings: amzn.to/3d5lFCk all in 12mm. The backlash on the lead screw is extremely minimal. I didn’t even have to instal a lock.
You've done an excellent job, what size linear bearings and tracks did you use? I was about to build something similar and had planned to use 16mm but yours look like maybe 12mm? If so do you find them to be solid enough? Great video well done !!
I'm looking to build something similar, but have found linear bearings to be very expensive. I've opted for 20mm (inside diameter) bushes which "use a superior nylon-6 material impregnated with molybdenum disulphide (MoS2)", according to the manufacturer/supplier. They are less than $2 NZ each! I hope to run them on some 20mm free machining steel round bar - $50 NZ for a 3 metre length. I'm not going to be able to start on this for a while - too busy, but I'll let you know how it goes. It might be a pile of s#%t
The linear bearings were definitely the more expensive part of this build. My first version actually used drawer slides to try to avoid using them. It sounds like your solution might be a cost effective alternative. I’ll be interested in how it turns out.
All along all I could think, “ this guy needs a bridgeport, a metal lathe, a welder and a plasma cutter”. This could be so much more accurate, flat, thinner, and stronger even if you used aluminum or steel. You can make your own multirouter and be done with it.
Brilliant design! Bought the plans for this and the buffet few minutes ago. Will be next year before the shop is up and running as we move next week. Take care and thanks!
Thanks, Gord! I’m glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the support
Great video. Appreciate the high level of detail
Excellent! I've made something similar and am in the process of upgrading it as well, adding beefier linear bearings, adjusting the router plate and such. Great build!
Thanks, Frank! I’ve been putting it through it’s paces over the last few weeks and It is still one of my favorite tools in the shop
I bought the plans and found the video an excellent help! Looking forward to making stuff with the new shop-made tool! Thanks
My first time watching yer videos! Wow is all I can say!
That's a really nice build.
Love it! Lots of good ideas for the eventual rebuild of my slot mortiser. Really like the tilt table design, and I've been meaning to make a table with the matchfit clamps forever.
Leadscrew on the plunge/Y axis is very high on my list. I'd love to manage to make a disconnectable leadscrew for both X/Y for some milling operations.
I thought about using lead screws for the x/y as well, but as you mentioned, I’d want to be able to disconnect it. Maybe in the mark 4 😂
Very nice fabricated
Very helpful video and an excellent machine! Any concerns over the router moving vertically slightly up and down (along the Z axis) during the operation? I didn't notice any lock mechanism for the wheel, would it turn during the operation?
Been waiting for this one! I’m sure I’ll have questions
Great job m8
Where did you get the hardware that holds the fence to the table on your drill press
Great video! Bought the plans and am on my way with the build. One question: Can you cut raised panels uing the tilt table? I can't see to get my mind around how they would be done.
I don’t see how you could
Nice! When making the tenons, how do achieve getting the up and down (thickness) the same every time? You didn’t show too much in your video. Great looking machine, I’m interested.
The best method is to set the machine to cut the top side of the tenon (a little thick), then flip the piece over rather than reposition it. That gives you consistency. From there you can “sneak up” on the right fit.
Really though, loose tenons are the best method if your particular joint allows for it.
I'm liking this. What do you think about adding some x y handles to make it like a pantarouter?
I thought about it, but it would need to be a complete redesign
I built one using his plans. One regret: I wish I had built it years earlier.
What were the biggest improvements with the latest version?
In the materials list, you have linear bearings for the x and y axis, but not for the router on the z axis. Also the link to the linear bearings calls for 12 mm size, but the amazon link lists only 8, 10 and 16 mm. How do you find the tolerances of the linear bearing setups? On the lead screw, how tight is the backlash with the nut? I'm not criticizing, only looking for information. Looks like a nice machine - good design.
The linear bearings for the router lift are the same as the other two sets. Last time I looked, Amazon didn’t have them as sets, but you can buy the pieces. Here is a link to just the shafts amzn.to/3w2lbFU just the stand offs: amzn.to/3fhgKBb and just the bearings: amzn.to/3d5lFCk all in 12mm. The backlash on the lead screw is extremely minimal. I didn’t even have to instal a lock.
@@EastOakWoodworking thank you for making the effort to reply with the info on linear bearings. You do nice work - I'm impressed.
Fantastico.
You've done an excellent job, what size linear bearings and tracks did you use? I was about to build something similar and had planned to use 16mm but yours look like maybe 12mm?
If so do you find them to be solid enough? Great video well done !!
I used 12mm bearings for all three sets.
@@EastOakWoodworking Thanks for that I can save some cash now and use the same , Great work!!
I'm looking to build something similar, but have found linear bearings to be very expensive. I've opted for 20mm (inside diameter) bushes which "use a superior nylon-6 material impregnated with molybdenum disulphide (MoS2)", according to the manufacturer/supplier. They are less than $2 NZ each!
I hope to run them on some 20mm free machining steel round bar - $50 NZ for a 3 metre length.
I'm not going to be able to start on this for a while - too busy, but I'll let you know how it goes. It might be a pile of s#%t
The linear bearings were definitely the more expensive part of this build. My first version actually used drawer slides to try to avoid using them. It sounds like your solution might be a cost effective alternative. I’ll be interested in how it turns out.
All along all I could think, “ this guy needs a bridgeport, a metal lathe, a welder and a plasma cutter”. This could be so much more accurate, flat, thinner, and stronger even if you used aluminum or steel. You can make your own multirouter and be done with it.
Such a loooonngg video, could have been made within 15 minutes duration, lot of unwanted explanation,,, rest everything...👍