My husband and I worked on our 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. We followed this video step by step. Mechanics quoted us over $500. We spent less than $~150-200 doing it ourselves! We parked at an O'Reilly's and with their permission spent around 6 hours in their back parking lot. It was very helpful because if we needed something my husband just ran into the store to buy it. We thankfully didn't need to drop the engine, just wiggled the piece out. Such a relief. Some bolts were harder to get to than others on the water pump but in the end it all seems to be working out. One thing is we forgot to fully tighten the pulley afterwards and it produced a rattling sound. My genius husband figured it out though and we took everything apart again and tightened it. Seems to be working fine now.
Aw, thanks! He's definitely the brains of the operation when it comes to mechanics but I like to help where I could. We've since bought a newer vehicle but the caravan served us faithfully. ❤️ Hope you get yours fixed!
Thanks!!! Huge help in me replacing the water pump in our '05!!! Note the might helps others - you can do this without lowering the engine. You need to get the water pump bolts out while moving the pulley around and then remove it all together. I also found it VERY helpful to have ratchet box wrench 10mm and 13mm and a small 1/4" drive ratchet/sockets to get at the water pump bolts.
PIPE WRENCH will work on belt tensioner with no prying. Open the wrench to fit the square part of tensioner, slide it on and pull on the wrench handle.
Thanks for the video Fox, I'm going to replace my wifes van pump tomorrow (2005) , you've given me a good starting point!!!!! Hopefully the engine does'nt have to be dropped as others have stated! Thanks again.
Dropping the Engine helped me maneuver the pulley out so I had great access to the water pump bolts. A small push on the engine towards the driver side helped also, just remember how the pulley came out for replacement. Dropping the engine was no big deal, it did help especially when extracting the broken screw. The screw was at the 8 o'clock position. I had one bolt break and a 2 hour job turned into 12. Grr. All was well at the end. I replaced the metal pipe which was leaking also. Great Video, thanks!
Minute-Man Heating & A/C One of mine broke at 5 o'clock. How did you get yours out? I felt it weaken, tried heating with a torch to baby it out... then #$^%^!!!
Easy enough thanks for the video, I helped a buddy do this over the weekend on a junk van he got for free. Even with dropping the engine a bit the we couldn't take the pully off so we just worked around it to get to the water pump bolts. I was able to get a lifetime warranty pump at o'reillys for about 30 bucks plus 10 bucks in coolant after taxes it was under 50 for something a shop would do for no less then 300. The coolant pipe by the pump looks like it's in bad shape and will need replacing soon due to rust if you're in there consider looking at it and maybe replacing it.
I thought dropping the engine would work for sure...but it's been impossible to get out the pulley. Taking a break to say that I'm attempting to remove the water pump by moving around the pulley and hope this works - as it did for you.
Very nice video, right from the start, nice diagnostics, and no time wasted unscrewing nuts and bolts and moaning and groaning and crying about everything under the sun. Thank you.
Thank you for this video save me $500 at the shop did it myself for the cost of the water pump and supplies cost me around $35! Life saver! If you think you can't do it you can! Only took me about 2 hours!
You should really teach all these other fucks on youtube how to properly make a part replacement video cause this 5 min video was absolutely perfect instructions!! Good job and thank you my friend! 2 thumbs up
What a great video. Other peoples' comments also suggest other things to look out for. Not sure I'll do this myself on 2005 Caravan if I have to drop the engine, but your video is very clear.
Thank you for the video and your excellent explanations. My water pump sounds just like yours. The exchange looks doable but I am pretty scared by loosening and lowering the engine. We'll see.
Very helpful! I just changed the water pump on a 2001 3.8 T&C. I got the bolts removed (with a small ratchet with 10mm socket) but had to lower the engine to get the pump out. Then I got the belt back on my going under the idler pulley at the top after threading all the other pulleys.
I replaced my water pump without lowering the engine. I only needed about 1/4 inch more clearance to install the new pump. I took a pry bar and very carefully wedged it between the engine and the frame. I was able to get just enough movement from the motor mounts to fit the pump in.
For sure. Good tip. Another guy shows this tip in his video, and it's exactly as you describe. See ua-cam.com/video/j3h3IT2IUEw/v-deo.html for the video.
Excellently done video, Thanks. Hardest to reach bolt resisted the most, sprayed and ran in and out several times, working in the liquid wrench, finally they came out without braking off. For some reason my engine drops only a 1/4.inch I have blocked the vehicle up so the wheels are just touching the ground. Maybe that is somehow interfering with it coming down. I'll try pulling the pump and pully together out. Wish me luck
1 - You do not need to drop the engine! The slots in the water pump pulley allow it to slide over the mounting arms towards the pump, then it can drop down with the pump. 2 - A pipe wrench will fit on that tensioner easy peasy
***** The pulley has holes/slots in it. Once you unbolt the pulley from the water pump, you can turn it and slide it towards the pump, over the mounts that it was bolted to. Then, without the pulley in the way, the pump can just slide downward. It's made to do this.
LiquidHeatAz I agree about the pipe wrench, but no way on mine with that pulley trick. I doubt you've done it. I pushed the pulley back, pulled the pump forward, cussed trying to pry it out then found this video. The tolerance is so tight that any minor variance in manufacture between vehicles likely will make some impossible without dropping the motor some.
Every time I change oil on my 2006 caravan, I spray the metal radiator tube with Fluid Film, to prevent rust and leakage from that metal tube. I live in rust belt and it prevents rust on that tube. I don’t think Fluid Film will injure rubber coolant hose, but I avoid spraying the rubber nonetheless.
Trey Baez, you could also be leaking at the heater core which is usually on the inside passenger side against the firewall. Your carpet would be damp or wet and you would smell coolant. Turn on your defrost and if it clouds up your window your heater core might be the problem
I used a 2 x 12” block under the oil pan to spread the load and a small bottle jack. You just want to reduce the point load on the metal pan so you won’t dent it.
Those 10mm bolts corrode and break easily! Use a penetrant (PB Blaster or Aerocroil) on them before trying to remove them. Others have replaced them with Grade 8 bolts. Also AC Delco (RockAuto) makes a pump with a cast iron impeller (instead of the cheap plastic on the oem part)
Very helpful. Just removed mine two hours ago. Agree with Kianna Love that there is no need to drop the engine. Although I did break one of the 10mm bolts. **sigh**
mario d.c Thanks for the compliments. Regarding the time to get this job done, I would guess a professional mechanic would probably charge for 2-4 hours.....but that is just a guess. Anything I do seems to take twice that...especially running the camera. Why not set aside an entire Saturday, and if you get done sooner, so much the better.
Caravans have cheap water pumps! Plan to replace about every 3 years! I carry spare in my van! Sometimes the plastic impeller will break and cause engine overheat! James
I have a 2007 and it's a HELLISH job, so I have no idea what year they made it impossible but I suspect it was easier up to 2004 or 2005 until Dodge realized they could screw people at the dealerships in the future for this repair. That's how they make the extra big bucks - by making things pretty much impossible for Joe Average to do on his own.
Thank you so much! I had it done in five hours by myself... never done it before. you are a great help and this was an excellent video. thank you so much again
Well, I lower the engine in order to install the water pump but I over did it for about an inch or 1.5 inches when I lift it up to install the three engine lock down bolts. However, everything works just fine right now. I am worried I might have damaged something I don't know. Is there anything I need to check to know for sure? Thanks!
Lower rad hose next 2 w/p. Many times valley pan metal gasket also leaks, may see that in the areas under air cleaner duct or directly opposite of that.. leaking along intake plenum and head joints. Radiator may leak along the rad tank seals. Sometime heater core will leak. Either side front feet area. Heater core is done from driver side feet area by removing the brake pedal connection to the booster input rod pin and press pedal out the way.
I've got coolant leaking from somewhere up near the water pump on a 2003 Caravan. I don't have any unusual noises though. It could be coming from the pump shaft seal I suppose, but I've heard that the rubber o-ring on the back end of metal tube is also a prime suspect on these vehicles. I'm not sure what to do. I could change both the o-ring and the pump together while I've got the system drained. Or do the o-ring first, then the pump if the leak doesn't stop? Decisions, decisions.
On an older vehicle, it's hard to go wrong with just replacing all the parts that are suspect. If it isn't the actual cause of the current leak, it certainly could be a leak sometime very soon - why not spend the extra few dollars you save by doing the job yourself on a few extra parts and buy yourself some peace of mind?
This vehicle was repaired about 6 months ago and yes I replaced both the water pump and the metal tube and rubber o-ring. You are right about replacing all the related parts in the cooling system. There is nothing worse than watching new, fresh, clean antifreeze draining out onto the street just a few weeks after you put it in.
Fox do you have to jack the engine on a 98 dodge carvan 3.0? . does anyone know? And is the pump on the passager side or driver side i jsut need to know location . i believe its driver side
It's a 3.3 Liter V-6 gas engine. I've never seen the 2.4, so I can't really comment on whether everything is exactly the same or not. The main principles should be the same, but there could be some little "gotcha" things that are different....
2009 vw routan 4.0 sel. same as Caravan. car is overheating. fluid level is good. temp is jumpy. new radiator 3mo ago. had a ypipe leak that I couldn't find. ran tapwater for a week before I could find the leak. drained the water. replaced fluid with correct stuff. was good for a few days and now have overheating. temp is jumpy if you watch the gauge. HOW DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE between a water pump problem vs radiator clog from tapwater vs thermostat??? help me please
Personally, I don't think short-term use of tap water would clog a T-stat. In my mind, there are two ways to approach car problems as a home mechanic: 1) Replace parts (even if you aren't sure they are the cause of the problem) and the money you save by doing them yourself and the knowledge you gain, and the confidence in knowing that the part is new are worth the potential downside that you may have replaced a part that is not actually the one that caused the problem. 2) Take it to a mechanic and pay them to diagnose the actual problem Method 1 is my preferred method because I tend to put a lot of miles on the cars...so the parts I erroneously replace are often ones that would have failed on me later anyway....
Very good video! To bad they don't teach those college boy designers how to make things right where there is more room to maintain these new offbreed vehicles.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP THE ENGINE -AGAIN - After unbolting the pulley, the slots allow it to be pushed towards the water pump, then lowered off together.
Kianna Love You have obviously never done it. I pushed the pulley back, pulled the pump forward, cussed trying to pry it out then found this video. The tolerance is so tight that any minor variance in manufacture between vehicles likely will make some impossible without dropping the motor some.
The first and last thing to do is lower the engine, all aspects of this operation are easier with the engine lowered including reinstalling the belt...
MrRuss64 Umm...no. Most likely not. Oil and water together is often a warped head gasket or a cracked block. You should pull your dipstick and inspect the oil that comes up on the end of it. If it looks muddy/chocolatey, you need to immediately stop driving the car and figure out what is going on.
It appears you didn't elevate the vehicle or remove the tire. Am I correct? Not judging you on this, I ask because I would love to not have to do those things.
Thank you. I just replaced the pump on mine. I had the 5 bolts on the pump body hard to turn all the way out especially the rearmost one and it broke off. Oops! I could have gotten to the end of tthat screw with some WD-40 as the threaded hole seems to go all the way through the casting that the pump bolts to. Maybe this will help someone. Hopefully mine will work with 4 bolts.
Major bummer. You are right of course that if you live in an area where rust is a bad issue, and as these vehicles get older, it can help to spray a bit of penetrating lubricant on all the bolts the day before you start to work. There are penetrating lubricants that work a whole lot better than WD-40. I like to use PB Blaster, but something like Liquid Wrench will also make a world of difference. Since you have already got a broken bolt, it would be best to see about removing the broken piece and getting a new bolt. Who knows how long it will run with only the 4 bolts...
If your Dodge Grand Caravan is leaking as someone mentioned below and you have checked "every where" try looking at the rear heater hose and find the valve. They crack real easy, and you are going to have to do some detective to get the Mopar part. Looks like this ----> www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/thumb/1015082.jpg
GrandFunker Getting a bit nervous is probably a good thing when you are talking about dropping an engine. If it causes you to be a bit more careful then that is good. However, if anything in the video looks like you might get hurt doing it, then you should definitely not do it. Go ahead and take it to a mechanic. I may not have explained myself properly, or your vehicle may be slightly different. When in doubt, go ahead and take it to a pro.
I couldn't do the tensioner pulley with a pry bar I had to go to the parts store and rent the tool. What a nightmare this was. I couldn't even use a breaker bar. Had to drop the engine just to get the pump out
John Galt Sorry to hear about that. What a bummer. Probably too late now, but you might also try putting a big wrench (crescent or plumbers) on the end of the lever to pry it down.
No a breaker bar wouldn't even work like usual it wouldn't fit. It had to be the special tensioner pulley tool. I could have made one if I was at work.
My husband and I worked on our 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. We followed this video step by step. Mechanics quoted us over $500. We spent less than $~150-200 doing it ourselves! We parked at an O'Reilly's and with their permission spent around 6 hours in their back parking lot. It was very helpful because if we needed something my husband just ran into the store to buy it. We thankfully didn't need to drop the engine, just wiggled the piece out. Such a relief. Some bolts were harder to get to than others on the water pump but in the end it all seems to be working out. One thing is we forgot to fully tighten the pulley afterwards and it produced a rattling sound. My genius husband figured it out though and we took everything apart again and tightened it. Seems to be working fine now.
Love that you did it!
You sound like a great wife, and I’m glad you were both in there helping each other 😊
Aw, thanks! He's definitely the brains of the operation when it comes to mechanics but I like to help where I could. We've since bought a newer vehicle but the caravan served us faithfully. ❤️ Hope you get yours fixed!
@@safiyam.3938 it’s my moms van and im done already, but thanks 😊
Thanks!!! Huge help in me replacing the water pump in our '05!!!
Note the might helps others - you can do this without lowering the engine. You need to get the water pump bolts out while moving the pulley around and then remove it all together. I also found it VERY helpful to have ratchet box wrench 10mm and 13mm and a small 1/4" drive ratchet/sockets to get at the water pump bolts.
This is one of the best Car Repair videos I have ever seen. Well done!
Many Thanks
Yes. This video was what I was looking for.
Yes well done
9
@@Iroc_twan l
Thanks!
Wow! Totally impressed by your clarity of expression and camera work! This is what a how-to video should be like. Thank you.
PIPE WRENCH will work on belt tensioner with no prying. Open the wrench to fit the square part of tensioner, slide it on and pull on the wrench handle.
Thanks for the video Fox, I'm going to replace my wifes van pump tomorrow (2005) , you've given me a good starting point!!!!! Hopefully the engine does'nt have to be dropped as others have stated! Thanks again.
@dee birdez Did you Have to Drop the Engine? is it a 3.8 or 3.3
For the tension pulley I used a 15 millimeter wrench and pull back on it from under the hood to get the belt off much easier
Dropping the Engine helped me maneuver the pulley out so I had great access to the water pump bolts. A small push on the engine towards the driver side helped also, just remember how the pulley came out for replacement. Dropping the engine was no big deal, it did help especially when extracting the broken screw. The screw was at the 8 o'clock position.
I had one bolt break and a 2 hour job turned into 12. Grr. All was well at the end.
I replaced the metal pipe which was leaking also. Great Video, thanks!
Minute-Man Heating & A/C
One of mine broke at 5 o'clock. How did you get yours out? I felt it weaken, tried heating with a torch to baby it out... then #$^%^!!!
I just got done with this job. many many MANY thanks for this video. it made the job quick and easy. thank you
Easy enough thanks for the video, I helped a buddy do this over the weekend on a junk van he got for free. Even with dropping the engine a bit the we couldn't take the pully off so we just worked around it to get to the water pump bolts. I was able to get a lifetime warranty pump at o'reillys for about 30 bucks plus 10 bucks in coolant after taxes it was under 50 for something a shop would do for no less then 300. The coolant pipe by the pump looks like it's in bad shape and will need replacing soon due to rust if you're in there consider looking at it and maybe replacing it.
I thought dropping the engine would work for sure...but it's been impossible to get out the pulley. Taking a break to say that I'm attempting to remove the water pump by moving around the pulley and hope this works - as it did for you.
That was clear, concise, and effective. Thank you very much, sir.
Very nice video, right from the start, nice diagnostics, and no time wasted unscrewing nuts and bolts and moaning and groaning and crying about everything under the sun. Thank you.
Amazing video. I just changed my water pump. Did everything step by step just like in the video. Thank you
Thank you for this video save me $500 at the shop did it myself for the cost of the water pump and supplies cost me around $35! Life saver! If you think you can't do it you can! Only took me about 2 hours!
hay man i have a 2000 dodge caravan 3.3 cant find the water pump can you get back to me with some lnof
dion sims mine was an 06 and it was on passenger side took off wheel and it up towards the fire wall
Wonderful video. Very clear. No camera shake. You're a pro! Thanks for the video post!
Brad Schweibold Great compliments! Thank you!
You should really teach all these other fucks on youtube how to properly make a part replacement video cause this 5 min video was absolutely perfect instructions!! Good job and thank you my friend! 2 thumbs up
I like it. Clear and simple instructions. Nicely done!
What a great video. Other peoples' comments also suggest other things to look out for. Not sure I'll do this myself on 2005 Caravan if I have to drop the engine, but your video is very clear.
Thank you for the video and your excellent explanations. My water pump sounds just like yours. The exchange looks doable but I am pretty scared by loosening and lowering the engine. We'll see.
Very helpful! I just changed the water pump on a 2001 3.8 T&C. I got the bolts removed (with a small ratchet with 10mm socket) but had to lower the engine to get the pump out. Then I got the belt back on my going under the idler pulley at the top after threading all the other pulleys.
Great job, just doing this now and feel a lot more confident, THANK YOU!!
I replaced my water pump without lowering the engine. I only needed about 1/4 inch more clearance to install the new pump. I took a pry bar and very carefully wedged it between the engine and the frame. I was able to get just enough movement from the motor mounts to fit the pump in.
For sure. Good tip. Another guy shows this tip in his video, and it's exactly as you describe. See ua-cam.com/video/j3h3IT2IUEw/v-deo.html for the video.
Im thinking of buying a 2003, is it the same deal?
I did that on my 2007 and I didn't feel like lowering the engine, I used the prybar and the old pump fell to the ground, I was so happy.
Excellently done video, Thanks. Hardest to reach bolt resisted the most, sprayed and ran in and out several times, working in the liquid wrench, finally they came out without braking off. For some reason my engine drops only a 1/4.inch I have blocked the vehicle up so the wheels are just touching the ground. Maybe that is somehow interfering with it coming down. I'll try pulling the pump and pully together out. Wish me luck
This looks easy me and my husband is about to try it wish us luck 😅
Clear and concise! Very well done. Thx for posting!!
Thanks for a short easy video
1 - You do not need to drop the engine! The slots in the water pump pulley allow it to slide over the mounting arms towards the pump, then it can drop down with the pump.
2 - A pipe wrench will fit on that tensioner easy peasy
LiquidHeatAz Thanks for the tips. If you can get that pump out without dropping the engine, that could save a few minutes for sure.
*****
The pulley has holes/slots in it. Once you unbolt the pulley from the water pump, you can turn it and slide it towards the pump, over the mounts that it was bolted to. Then, without the pulley in the way, the pump can just slide downward. It's made to do this.
yup good call.
LiquidHeatAz
I agree about the pipe wrench, but no way on mine with that pulley trick. I doubt you've done it. I pushed the pulley back, pulled the pump forward, cussed trying to pry it out then found this video. The tolerance is so tight that any minor variance in manufacture between vehicles likely will make some impossible without dropping the motor some.
Good videos very concise and short to the point and lights using lights very good well lit
Awesome i did it exactly as you showed thanks for the video.
excellent video, quick and right to the point
Every time I change oil on my 2006 caravan, I spray the metal radiator tube with Fluid Film, to prevent rust and leakage from that metal tube. I live in rust belt and it prevents rust on that tube. I don’t think Fluid Film will injure rubber coolant hose, but I avoid spraying the rubber nonetheless.
Trey Baez, you could also be leaking at the heater core which is usually on the inside passenger side against the firewall. Your carpet would be damp or wet and you would smell coolant. Turn on your defrost and if it clouds up your window your heater core might be the problem
You made it look so easy. Thanks.
Awesome Tutorial vid production. You will go far.
This video is still useful! Thanks you!
Fantastic video man
Where did you place the block of wood to lift engine? Oil pan? Wouldn’t it crush oil pan? Thanks for a very good video!
I used a 2 x 12” block under the oil pan to spread the load and a small bottle jack. You just want to reduce the point load on the metal pan so you won’t dent it.
Those 10mm bolts corrode and break easily! Use a penetrant (PB Blaster or Aerocroil) on them before trying to remove them. Others have replaced them with Grade 8 bolts. Also AC Delco (RockAuto) makes a pump with a cast iron impeller (instead of the cheap plastic on the oem part)
Very helpful. Just removed mine two hours ago. Agree with Kianna Love that there is no need to drop the engine. Although I did break one of the 10mm bolts. **sigh**
Same here
I saw another vid where the dude replaced the 10 mm bolts with grade 8 bolts - seems like the stock bolts corrode and break easily.
very nice video very clean you could see the actual work . what is the approximate time to do a job like that ?
mario d.c Thanks for the compliments. Regarding the time to get this job done, I would guess a professional mechanic would probably charge for 2-4 hours.....but that is just a guess. Anything I do seems to take twice that...especially running the camera. Why not set aside an entire Saturday, and if you get done sooner, so much the better.
Caravans have cheap water pumps! Plan to replace about every 3 years! I carry spare in my van! Sometimes the plastic impeller will break and cause engine overheat! James
I found an AC Delco pump that has a cast iron impeller I just received it from RockAuto. Plan to preventively replace my pump on my 2004 Caravan.
Thanku for the video , saved me alot of trouble and cussing
Dave Person You are welcome!
On the 2000, 3.3 liter Caravan there is no need to lower or raise the engine to change the water pump.
Probably easier though
I have a 2007 and it's a HELLISH job, so I have no idea what year they made it impossible but I suspect it was easier up to 2004 or 2005 until Dodge realized they could screw people at the dealerships in the future for this repair. That's how they make the extra big bucks - by making things pretty much impossible for Joe Average to do on his own.
Thanks, very useful video. Now I know what to do : )
Should you wait for the RTV sealant to dry before proceeding?
Great Video thanks 🙏
That was great video and and very informative!
I'm going to replace my 06 Dodge Grand Caravan water pump myself and save some money$$$
Is the ear on the tensor on a 05 model?
Thank you so much! I had it done in five hours by myself... never done it before. you are a great help and this was an excellent video. thank you so much again
Thanks! Glad we could help...
The best most concise video I’ve seen. I always make mine to long. 😂
Very helpful
This is a great video, thank you
Well, I lower the engine in order to install the water pump but I over did it for about an inch or 1.5 inches when I lift it up to install the three engine lock down bolts. However, everything works just fine right now. I am worried I might have damaged something I don't know. Is there anything I need to check to know for sure? Thanks!
i have a question, where else can water leak from on a 2001 dodge grand caravan, besides radiator, head casket, water pump and and hoses.
Trey Baez heater core
Lower rad hose next 2 w/p. Many times valley pan metal gasket also leaks, may see that in the areas under air cleaner duct or directly opposite of that.. leaking along intake plenum and head joints. Radiator may leak along the rad tank seals. Sometime heater core will leak. Either side front feet area. Heater core is done from driver side feet area by removing the brake pedal connection to the booster input rod pin and press pedal out the way.
found mine out after i replaced the water pump :P it was the damn hose that goes to the oil cooler
I WAS kinda stressing doing mine , but , not so much now , T U 🤙
at least the pump is not driven by the timing belt.
Thank you
its very great you took your time and made this video...
this video very encouraging and thank you
Very good
thanks this really helped!!
I've got coolant leaking from somewhere up near the water pump on a 2003 Caravan. I don't have any unusual noises though. It could be coming from the pump shaft seal I suppose, but I've heard that the rubber o-ring on the back end of metal tube is also a prime suspect on these vehicles. I'm not sure what to do. I could change both the o-ring and the pump together while I've got the system drained. Or do the o-ring first, then the pump if the leak doesn't stop? Decisions, decisions.
On an older vehicle, it's hard to go wrong with just replacing all the parts that are suspect. If it isn't the actual cause of the current leak, it certainly could be a leak sometime very soon - why not spend the extra few dollars you save by doing the job yourself on a few extra parts and buy yourself some peace of mind?
This vehicle was repaired about 6 months ago and yes I replaced both the water pump and the metal tube and rubber o-ring. You are right about replacing all the related parts in the cooling system. There is nothing worse than watching new, fresh, clean antifreeze draining out onto the street just a few weeks after you put it in.
It cost me $30 for a new pump with the "O" ring, I only want to tear in down and back together one time myself.
Thanks. The job was done several months ago. I changed both he pump and the tube. It was a good decision. There are no leaks.
very good video!
You were able to have enough room to get to the pump through the wheel well without jacking the van up?
Yep.
Fox do you have to jack the engine on a 98 dodge carvan 3.0? . does anyone know? And is the pump on the passager side or driver side i jsut need to know location . i believe its driver side
What is the engine mounting bolts torque?
Does anyone know if this is the same as a 1999 Caravan? If not, what is the difference?
Thank you
Excellent!
thanks very successful
Hi, great video, please tell me, which model engine is this? mine is the 2.4 petrol, is this the same? thank you
It's a 3.3 Liter V-6 gas engine. I've never seen the 2.4, so I can't really comment on whether everything is exactly the same or not. The main principles should be the same, but there could be some little "gotcha" things that are different....
Well I knew something was going to go wrong one of my bolts to the pulley is broken we are having trouble getting it off
2009 vw routan 4.0 sel. same as Caravan. car is overheating. fluid level is good. temp is jumpy. new radiator 3mo ago. had a ypipe leak that I couldn't find. ran tapwater for a week before I could find the leak. drained the water. replaced fluid with correct stuff. was good for a few days and now have overheating. temp is jumpy if you watch the gauge. HOW DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE between a water pump problem vs radiator clog from tapwater vs thermostat??? help me please
Personally, I don't think short-term use of tap water would clog a T-stat. In my mind, there are two ways to approach car problems as a home mechanic:
1) Replace parts (even if you aren't sure they are the cause of the problem) and the money you save by doing them yourself and the knowledge you gain, and the confidence in knowing that the part is new are worth the potential downside that you may have replaced a part that is not actually the one that caused the problem.
2) Take it to a mechanic and pay them to diagnose the actual problem
Method 1 is my preferred method because I tend to put a lot of miles on the cars...so the parts I erroneously replace are often ones that would have failed on me later anyway....
Very good video! To bad they don't teach those college boy designers how to make things right where there is more room to maintain these new offbreed vehicles.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP THE ENGINE -AGAIN - After unbolting the pulley, the slots allow it to be pushed towards the water pump, then lowered off together.
Kianna Love You have obviously never done it. I pushed the pulley back, pulled the pump forward, cussed trying to pry it out then found this video. The tolerance is so tight that any minor variance in manufacture between vehicles likely will make some impossible without dropping the motor some.
We didn't need to drop it either, just wiggled it out.
Thank You!
excellant
ur the man my wife is no longer going to kill me
The first and last thing to do is lower the engine, all aspects of this operation are easier with the engine lowered including reinstalling the belt...
nice job but what happens when you break a bolt on pump drilling out was a pain
Yep. You drill it out.....and it's a pain. 😞
i have oily water would be a symptom of a bad water pump?
MrRuss64 Umm...no. Most likely not. Oil and water together is often a warped head gasket or a cracked block. You should pull your dipstick and inspect the oil that comes up on the end of it. If it looks muddy/chocolatey, you need to immediately stop driving the car and figure out what is going on.
Awesome
me ayudaste de mucho gracias
Koneko Chan No hay de que!
2000 not the same? uses same pump?
**"this is this is what they look like if u don't brake them" 🤣😆🤣
It appears you didn't elevate the vehicle or remove the tire. Am I correct? Not judging you on this, I ask because I would love to not have to do those things.
That is correct.
Thank you. I just replaced the pump on mine. I had the 5 bolts on the pump body hard to turn all the way out especially the rearmost one and it broke off. Oops! I could have gotten to the end of tthat screw with some WD-40 as the threaded hole seems to go all the way through the casting that the pump bolts to. Maybe this will help someone. Hopefully mine will work with 4 bolts.
Major bummer. You are right of course that if you live in an area where rust is a bad issue, and as these vehicles get older, it can help to spray a bit of penetrating lubricant on all the bolts the day before you start to work. There are penetrating lubricants that work a whole lot better than WD-40. I like to use PB Blaster, but something like Liquid Wrench will also make a world of difference. Since you have already got a broken bolt, it would be best to see about removing the broken piece and getting a new bolt. Who knows how long it will run with only the 4 bolts...
very good video but didnt show tuffer to get at bolts on pump!
im doing everything to the letter and everything is working i jus cant get the tensioner down at all
Are you sure you are trying to move the tensioner and not the idler pulley ? We started to make this mistake.
Blue
Your videos all right but you didn’t show how to get the back bolts off
If I did it anyone can do it!
I should have thank you for all the effort you put in to make video.
If your Dodge Grand Caravan is leaking as someone mentioned below and you have checked "every where" try looking at the rear heater hose and find the valve. They crack real easy, and you are going to have to do some detective to get the Mopar part. Looks like this ----> www.partsgeek.com/assets/dimage/thumb/1015082.jpg
did
not show how to get at that pump bolt on the left upper side -you need to reach in and contort your arm
Oh SNAP I forgot to put the water back in
Looks easy enough, but the bit where you unbolt and lower the engine makes me a tad nervous.
GrandFunker Getting a bit nervous is probably a good thing when you are talking about dropping an engine. If it causes you to be a bit more careful then that is good.
However, if anything in the video looks like you might get hurt doing it, then you should definitely not do it. Go ahead and take it to a mechanic. I may not have explained myself properly, or your vehicle may be slightly different. When in doubt, go ahead and take it to a pro.
+FogoFox Thank you very much.It's very helpful.
*******Only video you should watch if you changing water pump and serpainteen belt*******
That sucked. Pry bars didn't do much... I used a bar clamp on the harmonic balancer. Took much longer than I would have liked.
Are you sure you are trying to move the tensioner and not the idler pulley ? We started to make this mistake.
I couldn't do the tensioner pulley with a pry bar I had to go to the parts store and rent the tool. What a nightmare this was. I couldn't even use a breaker bar.
Had to drop the engine just to get the pump out
Ughh lol
John Galt Sorry to hear about that. What a bummer. Probably too late now, but you might also try putting a big wrench (crescent or plumbers) on the end of the lever to pry it down.
No a breaker bar wouldn't even work like usual it wouldn't fit. It had to be the special tensioner pulley tool. I could have made one if I was at work.
John Galt
I was able to use a pipe wrench
I was able to use the flat side of a tire iron on the tensioner, worked like a charm.
2008 is different
Dodge
Discover how to do it with Avasva.